Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries Part 9

_Nov_. _20th_.--Returned to Ghaloom's: gathered the Martynia, finely in flower, and observed the Rafflesiacea along the banks of the Lohit.

_Nov_. _21st_.--Halted at Ghaloom's, the Rafflesiacea is found all about, anth. bilocular, apice poro-gemino dehiscent, pollen simplex, materie viscosa cohaerenti, ovula ant.i.tropa, tegumento unico. Made every arrangement with Premsong. According to this Gam we are to go up the Diree, and then cross over high mountains, leaving the Lohit entirely. He says the Lamas wear trowsers, socks and shoes, and that they dress their hair _a la mode Chinoise_; their houses are built on posts, and raised from the ground: they erect forts like the Chinese, and have plenty of fire-locks. They have also abundance of cattle, consisting of about seven kinds, but no _Mithuns_; and three sorts of Horses, which alone they use as beasts of burden. Their staple food is Ahoodan. The _Mithun_ of the Mishmees appears to me intermediate to a certain degree between the Bison and the wild Bull; their head is very fine, and as well as the horns that of a Bull, but their neck and body have, so to say, the same awkward conformation as those of the buffalo. I have not seen a large living one; the largest head I saw was three feet from tip to tip of the horns, the diameter of the forehead being probably about one-third of the above.

_Nov_. _22nd_.--Returned to Loong Mockh. I cannot reconcile Wilc.o.x's description of Ghaloom's old site with the reality, because the scenery is decidedly fine, embracing the Tidding, and the (in comparison with the near surrounding hills) gigantic Laim-planj-thaya, which from this presents the appearance of a vast cone with a peaked summit. Premsong's village is obviously at a considerable elevation. Found another Acrostichum, a Bolbophyllum, a rare Aristolochia foliis palmatis, 7 lobis, subtus glaucis; sapor peracerbus, floribus _siphonicis_. The Huttaya I have not seen: it occurs at a greater distance in the mountains than I have been. In addition to the plants I have gathered, Asplenium nidus it very common. Tradescantia and Camelina both occur; Ricinus also occurs, the Mishmees do not however put it to any use; Melica latifolia is common on some of the hills. Anthistiria arundinacea occurs in abundance. Likewise a small Areca and Chloranthus.

It is at Ghaloom's old site that these hills commence putting on an interesting appearance, those previously seen, excepting however Thuma- thaya, being entirely covered with tree jungle; but beyond this site, the lower s.p.a.ces unoccupied by jungle become much more numerous. The Mishmee word for bitter, is _Khar_. Query--why should not the name of the plant Coptis teeta, be changed to Coptis amara, although the species of the genus Coptis are probably all bitter? Sauraussa and Bombax both occur at Ghaloom's, as well as Pentaptera; Sesamum is used for oil.

I should have mentioned the top of the hill, surmounted in going immediately from Loong Panee towards Ghaloom's, is occupied almost entirely by a species of Fraxinus.

On my arrival at Ghaloom's on the 20th, I found that the coolies had played me the same trick as they had done previously, though not to such an extent. Instead of each man having 20 days' provisions, scarcely one had more than 5 or 6: as they had 20 days' given them in addition to that they would require on the road, it is obvious they must have thrown much away. Were all the Gams disposed to take one to Lama, it could not be done with a.s.samese coolies and, above all, Seerings or Ahooms are the very worst; and although often good sized men, they are very deficient in strength. Nagas and Mishmees are the best, then Kamptees.

I gave before leaving a packet of salt to Premsong, according I suppose to their own custom of proceeding. Yesterday he went to Roomling, Krisong's eldest son, and gained his consent. I mention this to shew how active he is. He is a friend of the Dupha's, {42} and to my surprise, told me he saw Capt. Hannay at Hookhoom, who gave him a jacket, and tried to induce him to shew him the road to Suddiya. He is certainly the best of all the Gams, and appears to be very liberal.

_Nov_. _23rd_.--Arrived at Deeling after a tedious march of 8 hours: we did not traverse the two cliffs near the Lohit, but pursued a longer, but more commodious cattle path: our Mishmees, however, preferred the shorter one. Gathered Sabia, Martynioidea, Alsophila, Menispermum at Paeen in fine flower. At Ghaloom's old site a large Euphorbia fol obovatis, ramis 4 angulato-alatis occurs, and Cymbydium giganteum in fine flower. _En_ _route_ hither I noticed the following; Bauhinia, Hoya, Urtica gigas, Mucuna, Curculigo, Panax, foliis supra-decompositis, Dalbergia, Laurus, Abroma, Lactuca exaltata, Uncaria, Siegesbeckia, Megala, _Podo-Molee_, and a species subscandent of bamboo, internodiis vix cylindricis, gracilibus; this is of great use where it occurs, in a.s.sisting one's ascent and descent.

_Nov_. _24th_.--Left about 11 for Thuma-thaya: we first descended the Dissoo ravine, then up a very steep hill, the top of which was cultivated, then descended and crossed another stream, the remainder of our march consisting almost entirely of an uninterrupted steep ascent: during our progress we gained partial views of the Plains and the Naga Hills, but on crossing a high ridge on which I observed Betula Populus?

Rhododendrum arboreum, the view to the East and West was very fine. That to the W. embracing the greater part of the plains about Suddiya and the Abor Hills, stretching along to S.W. the more distant Naga Hills. The Lohit could be traced for an immense way, the Dihong, Dibong, Digaroo, Dihing were all partially visible. To the N.E. Thegri-thaya was finely seen, then some rugged peaks among which Laim-planj was conspicuous. It embraced the course of the Lohit, at least its right bank, ridge surmounting ridge: the loftier ones tipped with snow; and lastly it was closed by a huge wall, all covered with snow, especially its peaks, stretching away to the N. From this we descended to Yen, where, as usual, I took up my quarters in a granary. During the latter portion of the journey, I gathered a Pa.s.siflora? Lobelia two species, a Scitaminea, Spiraea, and a curious aromatic plant, pedunculis bracteae adnatis, bracteis, coloratis, petal videis.

Codonopsis, etc. d.i.c.ksonia, stipitibus atris 3 ca.n.a.liculatis, frondibus amplis, 10 pedalibus; in fine fructification; this is the same with the Manmoo plant. I observed likewise an arborescent Sambucus, a Bonnaya, a huge Begonia: Coix was seen cultivated.

_Nov_. _25th_.--Spent the day in botanising. Gathered Adamia, some fine ferns, a bamboo, spiculis dense congestis, bracteis scariosis interspersis, and Schizosfachyum, Nees ab E. etc.

Another and much finer species of the Fumariaceous genus, I found on Laim- planj, Deutzia, a rare Quercus, a fine species of Antonia, (Br.) in fruit, a Bartramia, Trematodon, Neckera, etc., noticed a fruit something similar to that of Combretum, allis 2 maximis, 2 minimis: cotyledonibus haemisphaericis.

Saurauja, Prunus: 3 species of Aralia, Castanea, Quercus, etc. A species of Panic.u.m is here cultivated; the a.s.samese know it by the name Cheena, 3 species of Polygonatum, including that from Laim-planj, one foliis carnosis oppositis. 2 species of Begonia, making altogether six. The Amaranthacea of Deeling is here found extensively, it often a.s.sumes the form of a climber of considerable size. Musa farinosa grows to a great size, 20 to 25 feet. Bambusa in flower has stems about two inches in diameter. Sterculia flowers were observed on the ground. In the afternoon it rained slightly. This is the coldest place I have visited on these hills: in the evening and earlier parts of the night there is a very cold draught down Thuma-thaya.

The Anthistiria found on the more elevated portions of these hills, is probably different from that of the plains. Urticea are here found in abundance.

_Nov_. _26th_.--This morning the atmosphere being beautifully transparent, very high land plentifully sprinkled with snow was visible to the N.W. by W., and to the N.W. a slight peep of the Himalayas was gained. Started at 9, and commenced the ascent; we arrived at our halting place at 11.5. The greater part of the march was a steep ascent through dry woods, the ground being very slippery owing to the leaves.

Bucklandia occurs in abundance and of a large size, and attains a much greater height than Sedgwickia: found many interesting plants and a small Conifera, probably an Araucaria or a Taxus.

I continued the ascent until about 12, but the scene had totally changed; the whole face of the mountain on the S. side being entirely dest.i.tute of trees, and in many places quite naked. The ascent was not very difficult, and occupied a little more than an hour. This acclivity is chiefly occupied by Graminea, all past flowering, all adhering very firmly to the rock, which is quartzose and greyish blue outside, excessively angular: Gentianeae 2: a beautiful Campanula, Hyperic.u.m, Viburnum, Spiraea, Bryum Neckera, Pteris, Scabiosa, some Compositae, one or two Vaccinioidea, and a curious shrubby Rubiacea evidently a Serissa, were observed. The top, which represents a ridge, is partially wooded, the trees being the continuation or rather termination of the jungle that covers the whole northern face of the mountain. Here I saw Bucklandia, a Pomacea, Crawfurdia, Deutzia, Cynaroidea, Viburna 2, some ferns.

Brachymeum, Neckera, Lichens several: a Caryophyllea and a Berberis.

All these were somewhat stunted. The various views were beautiful, embracing a complete panorama, but unfortunately obscured towards Lama by trees. The Lohit was seen extensively from the Koond to Ghaloom's, and to the plains to an immense distance. The whole range of Abor Hills and a great portion of the Naga, some of which appeared very high, were likewise seen: to the S.E. high ridges not far distant and covered with snow, limited the view; slight snow was visible on the peak seen from Suddiya. The descent was very tedious owing to the excessive slipperiness of the gra.s.s: it was dangerous, because a slip would have frequently dashed you to pieces, and in all cases would have hurt one severely.

_Nov_. _27th_.--Descended to Yen: near our halting place we gathered a fine Pomacea arborea in fruit: a Symplocos, and observed Wallichioideae and Calamus. The plants of the greatest interest gathered were an Acer, an Epilobium, a Hoya grandiflora, Eurya, Hyperic.u.m, a fine Arundo, Bucklandia: Cotoneaster microphylla, a Sabia, Coriaria, Abelia? a rare Dipodous Orchidea of the same genus as a dwarf plant of the Cossiya Hills. Rhododendron, scandesent Eleodendron.

The ascent for the greater part is a steep wooded ridge; the first change indicated or induced by elevation is the diminution of the size in the trees, and the frequent occurrence of a Betulus? out of flower.

Proceeding onward one comes to a ridge, the S.E. declivity of which is nearly naked, the opposite being wooded with shrubs, Viburnum, Conaria, Mespilus, Pomacea, Rhododendron, Rubiacea Serissa, Cupulifera and some Compositae occur. Then Arbutus Vaccinium; Nardus: Filix cano-tomentosa, Lycopodium; Dicranum atratum; one or two Hypna, a Bryum, and Neckera fusca. Descending slightly from thence the ridge is observed to be wooded on both sides; it is at the termination of this that we halted.

The ascent is continued up a rock, and the whole of the mountain is, excepting the ravines, covered with Graminea, Cyperacea, Filix cano-tomentosa, etc. but the Ericoidea are not so fine. The gra.s.ses of the summit are two Andropogons: an Arundo Festucoidea, Panic.u.m, Isachne, Nardus ceasing below, it is towards this that Crepis? and Campanula are common.

The Ceratostemmata are found towards the summit, none descend any distance, except one of Roxburgh's; they are all generally epiphytes.

Orchidea become more common towards the halting place; beyond this I observed only two past flowering, one Habenaria, and a Malaxidea; the others are two Caelogyne, a Dipodious Orchidea, labelli ungue sigmoideo very common, a Bolbophyllum, and a few ditto epiphytes out of flower, one terrestrial Bletioidea is common in some places. At our halting place, I observed an arborescent Araliacea, a Cissus, an Acanthacea and a Laurinea. A little below, Panda.n.u.s occurs here and there, and attains a large size, the largest in fact I have ever seen. Castanea occurs about half way up, it is that species with rigid compound spines to the cupula.

I gathered also a fine Geastrum, but the specimens are lost. Bucklandia occurs extensively; it is a distinct species owing to its many flowered capitula; Sedgwickia comes into play towards Yen, where Bucklandia appears to become scarce: a large Vitex floribus roseo-purpureis is the most conspicuous tree of all, it ceases towards the summit; Cyathea I observed only above half way. Camellia axillaris occurs below, but I missed the Laim-planj plant. I may here observe that almost all plants with red flowers, at least in this quarter, are acid: the a.s.samese always appear to expect this, the proofs are Loranthus, Ceratostemma, and Begonia, in which red is generally a predominant colour.

Antrophyllum I noticed about Yen; towards Yen, I diverged from the path to visit the place whence the stones are procured, which the Mishmees use as flints for striking lights: this stone is found on the S. Western face of the mountain: the stones or noduli are frequently sub-crystalline, and are imbedded in a sort of micaceous frangible rock: they are very common, of very different sizes, with gla.s.sy fracture; the best are hard; the bad easily frangible, their weight is great. The inclination of this bed is considerable; overlying it at an inclination of 45 degrees, is the grey quartzose rock which forms the chief part, and perhaps nearly the whole, of the mountain. The Mishmee name for the noduli is _Mpladung_.

In the jungle at Yen occurs a huge Palm evidently Caryota, foliis maximis supra decompositis; the diameter of the trunk is 1.5 to 2 feet. It is said to die after flowering: the natives use the central lax structures as food. The Yen Gam promises to send me specimens to-morrow. The Palms I have hitherto seen are Wallichia, one or two Calami: Wallichioidia trunco 5-10 pedali, and a Phaenicoidea, but this I only saw at the foot of the mountains near Laee Panee, and the small Areca common about Negrogam. The name of the large Palm in a.s.samese is _Bura Sawar_. All the plants common to these and the Cossiya mountains, with one or two exceptions, flower much earlier here, those being all past flowering which I gathered in flower on the Cossiya hills in November last. This is owing to the greater cold, and the consequent necessity for the plants flowering at an earlier and warmer period.

A species of ruminant, or, according to the native account, a species of Pachydermata called the _Gan Pohoo_, occurs on Thuma-thaya. At the summit of the mountain the ground was in one place rooted up, the Mishmees said, by this animal, which they describe as a large Hog, but which I should rather take to be a kind of Deer.

_Nov_. _28th_.--Returned to Deeling. At the commencement of the princ.i.p.al descent we gathered Betula and another Cupulifera, both moderately sized trees. Anthestina arundinacea, is about this place very common, and an Andropogon, Culmis ramosis which I had previously brought from the Abor hills. About half way down by a present of _kanee_ (opium), I succeeded in getting the arborescent vitex, which is the most striking tree of all when in flower. Lost sight altogether of Bucklandia, nor did I observe Sedgwickia. Gathered at the foot of Thuma- thaya a Caelogyne in flower, allied to C. Gardneriana; Alsophila is common towards the base.

In the evening the Yen Gam came up according to his promise with the gigantic Palm, with male inflorescence, it is a Caryota; he likewise brought Sarcocordalis, Rafflesiacea, and a curious p.u.b.escent Piper. He also added the female flowers of another Palm, which, according to him, is another species of _Sawar_, or Caryota: the inflorescence is of an orange yellow. A tree with the habit of Pterospermum occurs on Thuma- thaya, low down Habenaria uniflora on rocks in the Dirsoo Panee, or river; Kydia occurs about Yen, but not higher.

_Nov_. _29th_.--Reached Laee Panee after a march of five hours; and without a.s.samese coolies, it might be done in three. I noticed below Deeling, but still at a considerable elevation, Crawfurdia campanu lacea, Adamea, Engelhardtia, Vitex speciosa, and Magnolia in the order in which they are thus given, Quercus, cupulis echinatis occurs comparatively low down, Castanea ferox still lower, Dracaena comes into view towards the base. At the village first reached in the ascent there is a Meliaceous Azedarach looking tree.

At our old halting place, and which is near Deeling, another _Ahum-metta Ghas_ was shewn me. This attains, I am told, a large size: it is not very unlike in habit a Melanorrhaea, and its young leaves are tinged with red, the mature ones are coriaceous. I have not seen it in flower; the juice, at least from small branches, is not very abundant, and at first is of a whitish colour; it is, _on dit_, after drying that it a.s.sumes the black tint; at any rate it is excessively acrid, for one of my servants who cut it incautiously, had his face spoilt for a time: the swelling even after four days had elapsed was considerable. With this as well as the Rhus they dye the strings of the simple fibres of _Sawar_, which they all wear below the knee: if not properly dried these strings cause some inflammation: the strings are ornamental, light, and when worn in small numbers graceful, but when dozens are employed, and all the upper ones loose, they deform the figure much; some of the women, perhaps anxious to restrain the protuberance of their calves, tie two or three lightly across the calf.

At Nohun, near Deeling, Cocoloba aculeata, _baccis_ cyaneis occurs here the same as at Mumbree in the Cossiya hills, and at Suddiya.

_Nov_. _30th_.--Halted. Put all the grain into the Tapan Gam's hands, amounting to 60 maunds. In the evening received as a present a long sword from Premsong. Found a fine Impatiens and a shrub coming into flower, Calyce aestiv. valvato? Stamen 4, connectivo ultra antheras longe producto, ovarium adnatum, foliis oppositis, exstipulatis. Meyenia coccinea, finely in flower. An arborescent Urticea (Baehmeria?) foliis subtus candidis is common.

_Dec_. _1st_.--Reached the Tapan Gam's after a sharp march of four hours.

We are not yet quite at the foot of the hills. Gathered _en route_ 4 new Acanthaceae, not previously met with on this trip, among which is a beautiful Eranthemum. At Laee Panee one of my people brought me a fine Aristolochia, very nearly allied to that from Ghaloom's, but at once distinct by its ferruginous p.u.b.escence, Antrophyum, and a Polypodium not before met with were among the acquisitions. The Tapan Gam has behaved very handsomely for a Mishmee, having killed a hog, and given five kuchoos of beautiful rice, and feasted my people. Found two snakes, which inhabit the inside of bamboos. Color superne brunneo-cinereus, margines squamarum nigri, gula nigra, fascicula subtus antea alba, postice lutescens.

Noticed Jenkinsia near Laee Panee, and some gigantic specimens of Pentaptera, the Hool-look of the a.s.samese, the timber of which is used for large canoes; and Lagerstraemia grandiflora occurs on the banks of the Kussin Panee.

CHAPTER III.

_Revisits the Tea Localities in the Singphoo and Muttack_ _Districts_, _Upper a.s.sam_.

_Dec_. _2nd_.--Returned to Jingsha via Kussin Panee, or river, and Karam Panee, the march being a tolerably easy one. Found along the steep banks of the former a fine Meniscium, frondibus 6-8 pedalibus, and an arborescent Polypodium, caudice 12-15 pedali, partibus novellis densissime ferrugineo-tomentosis; frondibus subtus glauco-albidis. The caudex is altogether similar in structure to that of Alsophyla, equally furnished with strong black bristly radicles towards its base.

_Dec_. _3rd_.--Left for Husa Gam's about 9, and arrived at the village which is on the Kampai of the Singfos, Tup-pai of the Mishmees about 4.5 P.M. The first part of our march was to the E. up the Karam, we then traversed for a long way heavy jungle in a S. direction, and then came on the dry bed of the Kampai, up which we ascended to the village. Found a Ruellioidea, _Cyananthus_, _mihi_. _Oom_ of the a.s.samese, with which the Kamptees dye their black blue cloths. Noticed an arborescent Araliacea inermis, foliis supra decomposita; panicule patentissima. The Husa Gam treated us very handsomely forming a striking contrast with the Mishmees; he declares positively that no tea exists in this direction; I shall therefore proceed direct from Luttora to Beesa. Roxburghia occurred on the route. The village is on the left bank of the river: the direction from Jingsha's being about N.W.

_Dec_. _4th_.--Reached Luttora after an easy march of three hours and a half, for the most part along an excellent path. We pa.s.sed the following villages _en route_ Chibong, Wakon, Mtarm, and Mcyompsan: three of which are of some size; none however so large as Nsas. This is the largest Singfo village I have seen, and probably contains 400 people.

This village and all the others are situated on high ground, the ascent from the Kampai being probably 70 feet. The country consists of level, apparently good soil, with here and there broadish ravines in which bamboos are abundant. Cultivation is common, and of considerable extent.

On a similar eminence is situate Luttora, and it has been well chosen, for on both sides that I approached it, the ascent is steep and capable of being easily defended; the south side is bounded by the Ponlong Panee, which runs into the Tenga Panee. If any ascent it is an easy one, and must be to the westward; to the north, there is a small stream, but neither this, Ponlong or Tenga are any thing but mere rills, which may be easily leaped over in the dry seasons. Our route from Nsas was to the W.

of south. No stockades appear to exist in this quarter.

Luttora is not so large as Nsas; formerly the Luttora Gam was the chief of all this soil, but he has been partly deserted by two bodies of men who have respectively chosen Nsas and Htan-tsantan.

The Gam visited me in the evening at our halting place on the Ponlong; he is a large, coa.r.s.e, heavy-looking man, nearly blind, and excessively dirty. He proposed of himself to me, to become the Company's ryott in accordance with the wish, he said, of the Dupha Gam; but when I told him he ought to send or go to the Suddiya Sahib, or Political Agent, he said he wanted to see the Dupha first: he was accompanied by a very loquacious oldish man, who had just returned from Hook-hoom, to which place he had gone with the Dupha. They left apparently not much pleased at my being empty handed.

_Dec_. _5th_.--Left at 6.5, reached the Muttack Panee about 8.5, having come through much heavy bamboo jungle; we then ascended the dry bed of the Muttack, and ascended after some time the Minaboom. This was most tedious, as we continued along the ridge for two hours; we then commenced our descent, but did not reach the Meera Panee much before 1 P.M. Down this we came here, and then along some curious chasms in the sandstone, and encamped about 3. The difference of soil between the Minaboom and the Mishmee hills is most obvious; on the N.E. declivity there is much soil; but on the opposite side little but rounded stones which supply the place of soil, and in places we saw nothing but sandstone conglomerate?

or indurated soil with many boulders imbedded in it, and a blackish greasy clay slate; while on the Mishmees, on the contrary, all is rock, hard and harsh to the touch; or where loose stones do occur on the face of the hills, they are all angular. The vegetation of sandstone is likewise far more varied; and that of the Meera Panee district, abounds in ferns, among which is Polypodium Wallichianum. The Tree-fern of Kujing I observed in the Muttack, Sedgwickia in Minaboom, two Magnoliaceae, one bracteis persistent, induratis, and a Dipterocarpus.

The chief vegetation of the ridge consists of gra.s.ses, among which bamboo holds a conspicuous place. A Begonia was common along the Muttack. The Meera Panee would well repay a halt of two or three days.

At our halting place we met four Burmese, despatched by the Maum, {51} who has arrived at Beesa on a visit to the Luttora Gam.

_Dec_. _6th_.--Reached Beesa after a sharp march of six hours. Our course lay at first down the Meera Panee; here I observed more of the Polypodium Wallichianum, which is common throughout the Singfo hill country, and appears to be used as grog, at least the juice of the petioles. We then diverged to the westward through heavy jungle, and the remainder of our march consisted of uninteresting dense jungle, water- courses, and excessively low places. Observed Sabia in some of the jungles; the only interesting plants gathered were an Impatiens and two or three Acanthaceae. About 2.5 P.M. we came on the Noa Dihing, which is now nearly dry, the water having flowed into the Kamroop. No boat, not even a dak boat, can come near Beesa. It is obvious that this river here never presented any depth, both banks being very low; the bed consists of small hard boulders.

_Dec_. _7th_, _8th_.--Halted at Beesa.