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Manual of Gardening Part 71

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_Leek._--Sow the seeds in the open ground in drills 6 in. apart and 1 in. deep, and when large enough, thin to 1 in. in the row.

_Muskmelon._--Plant seeds in sods in the hotbed.

_Parsnip._--Dig the roots before they grow and become soft and pithy.

Seeds may be sown as soon as the ground is dry enough to work.

_Parsley._--Soak the seeds in warm water for a few hours, and sow in the open ground.

_Peas._--Sow the seeds as soon as the ground can be worked. They will stand considerable cold and transplanting also. Time may be gained by sowing some seeds in moist sand in a box in the cellar and transplanting when well sprouted. Plant deep in light, dry soil; cover an inch at first, and draw in the earth as the vines grow.

_Potatoes._--Plant early on rich soil free from blight and scab. For a very early crop, the potatoes may be sprouted before planting.

_Peppers._--Sow the seeds in the hotbed or in the boxes in the house.

_Radish_ seeds may be sown in the open ground or in the hotbed and the crop harvested from there. The small, round varieties are best for this purpose.

_Strawberries._--Give a good, thorough cultivation between the rows and then remove the mulch from the plants, placing it in the rows, where it will help to keep the weeds down.

_Salsify._--Sow the seeds as soon as the ground can be worked. Give the same care and cultivation as for carrots or parsnips.

_Spinach_ seeds must be sown early, and then every two weeks for a succession. Thin out and use the plants before they send up flower-stalks.

_Squashes._--Hubbards and summer squashes may be started on sods in the hotbed.

_Tomato._--Sow in the hotbed or in shallow boxes in the house. Try some of the yellow varieties; they are the finest flavored of any.

MAY

_Beans._--The bush sorts may be planted in the open ground, and limas in pots or sods in a coldframe or spent hotbed. Limas require a long season to mature, and should be started early.

_Beets._--Sow for a succession. Transplant those started under gla.s.s.

_Cabbages_ always do best on a freshly turned sod, and should be set before the land has had time to dry after plowing. The secret of success in getting a large yield of cabbage is to start with rich land and put on all the manure obtainable. Clean out the hog yard for this purpose.

_Cuc.u.mbers._--Sow in the open ground toward the last of the month. A few may be started as advised for lima beans.

_Lettuce._--Sow for a succession, and thin to 4 in. in the rows.

_Melons._--Plant in the open ground toward the end of the month. It is useless to plant melons and other cucurbitaceous plants until settled weather has arrived.

_Onions._--Finish planting and transplanting, and keep all weeds down, both in the seed-bed and the open field.

Peas.--Sow for a succession.

_Squashes._--Plant as advised for melons and cuc.u.mbers. They require a rich, well-manured soil.

_Strawberries._--Remove the blossoms from newly set plants. Mulch with salt hay or marsh hay or clean straw or leaves those that are to bear.

Mulching conserves moisture, keeps the berries clean, and prevents weeds from growing.

_Sweet corn._--Plant early and late varieties, and by making two or three plantings of each, at intervals, a succession may be kept up all summer and fall. Sweet corn is delicious, and one can hardly have too much of it.

_Tomatoes._--Set some early plants by the middle of the month or earner, if the ground is warm, and the season early and fair. They may be protected from the cold by covering with hay, straw, cloth, or paper, or even with earth. The main crop should not be set until the 20th or 25th, or until all danger of frost is over. However, tomatoes will stand more chilly weather than is ordinarily supposed.

JUNE

_Asparagus._--Cease cutting and allow the shoots to grow. Keep the weeds down and the soil well stirred. An application of a quick commercial fertilizer or of liquid manure will be beneficial.

_Beans._--Sow the wax sorts for succession. As soon as a crop is off, pull out the vines and plant the ground to late cabbage, turnips, or sweet corn.

_Beets._--Transplant in rows 1 to 3 ft. apart and 6 in. in the row. Cut off most of the top, water thoroughly, and they will soon start.

_Cabbage and cauliflower._--Set plants for the late crop. Rich, newly turned sod and a heavy dressing of well-rotted manure go a long way toward a.s.suring a good crop.

_Celery._--Set the main crop, and try the new method of setting the plants 7 in. apart each way, if you have rich land and can irrigate, but not unless these conditions are present. Page 505.

_Cuc.u.mbers_ may yet be planted, if done early in the month.

_Currants._--Spray with Paris green for the currant worm until the fruit sets. h.e.l.lebore is good, but it is difficult to get it of good strength; use it for all late spraying.

_Lettuce._--Sow for succession in a moist, cool, and partially shaded spot. The seed does not germinate well in hot weather.

_Lima beans_ should be hoed frequently, and started on the poles if they are contrary.

_Melons._--Cultivate often and watch for the bugs. A screen of closely woven wire or mosquito netting may be used to cover the vines, or tobacco dust sifted on thickly.

_Onions._--Keep free from weeds and stir the ground frequently and especially after every rain.

_Squashes._--Keep the ground well cultivated and look out for bugs. (See _Melons._) Layer the vines and cover the joints with fresh soil, to prevent death of the vines from the attacks of the borer.

_Strawberries._--Plow up the old bed that has borne two crops, as it will usually not pay to keep it. Set the ground to late cabbage or some other crop. The young bed that has borne the first crop should have a thorough cultivation and the plow run close to the rows to narrow them to the required width. Pull up or hoe out all weeds and keep the ground clean the rest of the season. This applies with equal force to the newly set bed. A bed can be set late next month from young runners. Pinch off the end after the first joint, and allow it to root on a sod or in a small pot set level with the surface.

_Tomatoes._--For an early crop train to a trellis, pinch off all side shoots, and allow all the strength to go to the main stalk. They may also be trained to poles, the same as lima beans, and can be set closer if grown in this way. Spray with the bordeaux mixture for the blight, keep the foliage thinned and the vines off the ground.

_Turnips._--Sow for an early fall crop.

JULY

_Beans._--Sow the wax sorts for a succession.

_Beets._--Sow Early Egyptian or Eclipse for young beets next fall.

_Blackberries._--Head back the young canes to 3 ft., and the laterals also when they get longer. They may be pinched with the thumbnail and finger in a small patch, but this soon makes the fingers sore, and when there are many bushes to go over, it is better to use a pair of shears or a sharp sickle.

_Cabbage._--Set plants for the late crop.

_Corn._--Plant sweet corn for succession and late use.

_Cuc.u.mbers._--It is late to plant, but they may be put in for pickles if done before the Fourth. Cultivate those which are up, and keep an eye open for bugs.

_Currants._--Cover a few bushes with muslin or burlap before the fruit ripens, and you can eat currants in August. Use h.e.l.lebore, rather than Paris green, for the last brood of currant worms, and apply it as soon as the worms appear. There is little danger in using it, even if the currants are ripe.

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Manual of Gardening Part 71 summary

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