The Rough Guide To Amsterdam Part 11

Mellow Yellow Vijzelgracht 33. Spartan but bright coffeeshop with a small, good-quality dope list. It's a little out of the way, but makes up for it in friendliness. MonThurs 9ammidnight, FriSun 8am1am. Vijzelgracht 33. Spartan but bright coffeeshop with a small, good-quality dope list. It's a little out of the way, but makes up for it in friendliness. MonThurs 9ammidnight, FriSun 8am1am.

The Otherside Reguliersdwarsstraat 6. Popular with (but not exclusively occupied by) gay smokers, this is a crowded and fun coffeeshop near the Muntplein. In Dutch, "the other side" is a euphemism for h.o.m.os.e.xuality. Daily 11am1am. Reguliersdwarsstraat 6. Popular with (but not exclusively occupied by) gay smokers, this is a crowded and fun coffeeshop near the Muntplein. In Dutch, "the other side" is a euphemism for h.o.m.os.e.xuality. Daily 11am1am.

Stix Utrechtsestraat 21. The quietest branch of an Amsterdam inst.i.tution for dope-smoking. You can get it all here: coffee, newspaper and a smoke. Daily 11am1am. Utrechtsestraat 21. The quietest branch of an Amsterdam inst.i.tution for dope-smoking. You can get it all here: coffee, newspaper and a smoke. Daily 11am1am.

Eating and drinking Coffeeshops Coffeeshops The Jordaan and Western docklands [image]Barney's Breakfast Bar Haarlemmerstraat 102. This extremely popular cafe-c.u.m-coffeeshop is simply the most civilized place in town to enjoy a big hit with a fine breakfast at any time of day. A few doors down, at no. 98, Haarlemmerstraat 102. This extremely popular cafe-c.u.m-coffeeshop is simply the most civilized place in town to enjoy a big hit with a fine breakfast at any time of day. A few doors down, at no. 98, Barney's Farm Barney's Farm affords a nice sunny spot in the morning and serves alcohol, and across the street affords a nice sunny spot in the morning and serves alcohol, and across the street Barney's Uptown Barney's Uptown has good c.o.c.ktails in a trendier environment. Daily 7am10pm. has good c.o.c.ktails in a trendier environment. Daily 7am10pm.

Bronx Marnixstraat 92. Smart-looking, multi-level place equipped with a large coma-inducing fish tank and internet access up on the mezzanine floor. Daily 10ammidnight. Marnixstraat 92. Smart-looking, multi-level place equipped with a large coma-inducing fish tank and internet access up on the mezzanine floor. Daily 10ammidnight.

Paradox 1e Bloemdwarsstraat 2. If you're fed up with the usual coffeeshop food offerings, 1e Bloemdwarsstraat 2. If you're fed up with the usual coffeeshop food offerings, Paradox Paradox satisfies the munchies with outstanding natural food, including spectacular fresh fruit smoothies and veggie burgers. Daily 10am8pm. satisfies the munchies with outstanding natural food, including spectacular fresh fruit smoothies and veggie burgers. Daily 10am8pm.

Eating and drinking Coffeeshops Coffeeshops Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands Pollinator Company Nieuwe Herengracht 25 Nieuwe Herengracht 25 www.pollinator.nl. Not strictly a coffeeshop, this place is for those serious about growing their own marijuana. The owner can tell you everything you need to know, and stocks the products you need to do it, from seeds to compost, as well as various peripherals such as pipes, cannabis lollies and hemp rock. The small chill-out area offers free tea and coffee and has a large collection of back issues of High Times High Times. Mon noon7pm, TuesFri 11am7pm, Sat 1.307pm.

Eating and drinking Coffeeshops Coffeeshops The outer districts Greenhouse Tolstraat 91. Tram #4 or #25 from CS. Consistently sweeps the board at the annual Tolstraat 91. Tram #4 or #25 from CS. Consistently sweeps the board at the annual Cannabis Cup Cannabis Cup, with medals for its dope as well as for "Best Coffeeshop". Staff are extremely knowledgeable in their "gra.s.sy" field; if you're only buying once, buy here. There are also branches at Waterlooplein 345 and OZ Voorburgwal 191. Daily 9am1am.

Yo-Yo 2e Jan van der Heijdenstraat 79. About as local as you can get, down in De Pijp, to the east of the Sarphatipark, this is a small, airy little place in which to seek out smoking solitude. A little gallery at the back exhibits works by local artists. Daily noon8pm. 2e Jan van der Heijdenstraat 79. About as local as you can get, down in De Pijp, to the east of the Sarphatipark, this is a small, airy little place in which to seek out smoking solitude. A little gallery at the back exhibits works by local artists. Daily noon8pm.

Entertainment and nightlife Amsterdam offers a broad range of music music, dance and film dance and film, partly due to its youthful population, and partly thanks to its government subsidies. Indeed, the city is often at the cutting edge of the arts and its frequent festivals festivals and fringe events and fringe events provide plenty of offbeat entertainment. Furthermore, the city is crammed with places offering a wide range of affordable entertainment. Something of a Mecca for provide plenty of offbeat entertainment. Furthermore, the city is crammed with places offering a wide range of affordable entertainment. Something of a Mecca for clubbers clubbers, the city comes into its own after dark, with numerous venues cl.u.s.tered around Leidseplein and its environs buzzing into the small hours. Lovers of the performing arts performing arts are particularly well catered for, with venues such as the state-of-the-art are particularly well catered for, with venues such as the state-of-the-art Muziekgebouw Muziekgebouw and the prestigious and the prestigious Concertgebouw Concertgebouw top of the list, not to mention a host of concert halls, theatres and churches hosting all manner of cultural happenings, from modern dance to stand-up comedy. top of the list, not to mention a host of concert halls, theatres and churches hosting all manner of cultural happenings, from modern dance to stand-up comedy.

Entertainment and nightlife Information For information about what what's on, a good place to start is the Amsterdam Uitburo Amsterdam Uitburo, or AUB AUB (MonSat 10am7.30pm, Sun noon7.30pm), the city council's cultural office, housed in a corner of the Stadsschouwburg theatre on Leidseplein. You can get advice on anything remotely cultural here, as well as tickets and copies of listings magazines. Of the (MonSat 10am7.30pm, Sun noon7.30pm), the city council's cultural office, housed in a corner of the Stadsschouwburg theatre on Leidseplein. You can get advice on anything remotely cultural here, as well as tickets and copies of listings magazines. Of the listings magazines listings magazines, the AUB's own monthly Uitkrant Uitkrant is comprehensive and free, but in Dutch; or you could settle for the VVV's bland, English-language is comprehensive and free, but in Dutch; or you could settle for the VVV's bland, English-language Day By Day Day By Day (also free). Alternatively, the free (also free). Alternatively, the free NL20 NL20 magazine (in Dutch) is the most up-to-date and complete reference source and can be found in many supermarkets, cafes and shops. In addition, the Wednesday entertainment supplement of the newspaper magazine (in Dutch) is the most up-to-date and complete reference source and can be found in many supermarkets, cafes and shops. In addition, the Wednesday entertainment supplement of the newspaper Het Parool Het Parool also gives a good overview of most cultural activities and also gives a good overview of most cultural activities and Amsterdam Weekly Amsterdam Weekly is a free cultural newspaper in English, which comes out every Wednesday and has information on film, music and the arts. Any cinema can provide the fold-out is a free cultural newspaper in English, which comes out every Wednesday and has information on film, music and the arts. Any cinema can provide the fold-out Film Agenda Film Agenda, which gives details of all films showing in the city that week (ThursWed). Bars and restaurants often stock similar fortnightly or monthly listings leaflets.

Entertainment and nightlife Tickets Tickets for most concerts and events can be bought from the Uitburo and VVV offices, or reserved by phone through the for most concerts and events can be bought from the Uitburo and VVV offices, or reserved by phone through the AUB Uitlijn AUB Uitlijn (020/795 9950, 9am8pm); in all cases a booking fee applies, usually 12 percent. You can also buy tickets for any live music event in the country at the GWK bureau de change offices at the Leidseplein and at Centraal Station, for a fee of around 34. If you're under 30 and plan to take in a few events, you might want to buy a (020/795 9950, 9am8pm); in all cases a booking fee applies, usually 12 percent. You can also buy tickets for any live music event in the country at the GWK bureau de change offices at the Leidseplein and at Centraal Station, for a fee of around 34. If you're under 30 and plan to take in a few events, you might want to buy a Cultureel Jongeren Pa.s.sport Cultureel Jongeren Pa.s.sport ( (CJP), which costs 15 and gets you reductions on entry to theatres, concerts and filmhuizen filmhuizen, and is available from the AUB. Aside from CJP cardholders, the only people generally eligible for discounts discounts at cultural events and venues are students and over-65s (though most places will only accept Dutch ID). at cultural events and venues are students and over-65s (though most places will only accept Dutch ID).

Entertainment and nightlife Clubbing After a long lull, clubbing clubbing in Amsterdam has been re-invigorated by a good range of decent venues that bear comparison with clubs in any other European city, plus plenty of bars hosting regular DJs most playing variations on house, trance, garage and techno. The best place to find out what's on is the free weekly in Amsterdam has been re-invigorated by a good range of decent venues that bear comparison with clubs in any other European city, plus plenty of bars hosting regular DJs most playing variations on house, trance, garage and techno. The best place to find out what's on is the free weekly listings listings magazine magazine NL20 NL20 or pick up the printed "flyer-newspaper" or pick up the printed "flyer-newspaper" guestlist.nu guestlist.nu ( (www.guestlist.nu), which has information on upcoming events. Also check for flyers at Midtown Records, Nieuwendijk 104 (Old Centre), which runs a ticket service for most dance events.

Most clubs charge for entry, with ticket prices ticket prices hovering between 10 and 15 at weekends and dropping to around 7 during the week. A singular feature of Amsterdam clubbing, however, is that you're expected to tip the bouncer if you want to get back into the same place next week; 1 or 2 in the palm of his hand will do very nicely. hovering between 10 and 15 at weekends and dropping to around 7 during the week. A singular feature of Amsterdam clubbing, however, is that you're expected to tip the bouncer if you want to get back into the same place next week; 1 or 2 in the palm of his hand will do very nicely. Drinks Drinks prices are just slightly more expensive than in cafes at around 34, though you'll usually pay more for spirits, but not excessively so. prices are just slightly more expensive than in cafes at around 34, though you'll usually pay more for spirits, but not excessively so. Dress Dress up if you want to get into some of the smaller, hipper clubs where s.p.a.ce is limited and door staff have carte blanche about who they let in. up if you want to get into some of the smaller, hipper clubs where s.p.a.ce is limited and door staff have carte blanche about who they let in. Smoking Smoking is not allowed inside, but most clubs have purpose-built smoking lounges. As far as is not allowed inside, but most clubs have purpose-built smoking lounges. As far as drugs drugs go, smoking joints in the designated area is generally fine. Should you need reminding, ecstasy, acid, speed and cocaine are all illegal, and you can expect less than favourable treatment from the bouncers (and the law) if you're caught consuming. go, smoking joints in the designated area is generally fine. Should you need reminding, ecstasy, acid, speed and cocaine are all illegal, and you can expect less than favourable treatment from the bouncers (and the law) if you're caught consuming.

Although all the places listed below open open at either 10pm or 11pm, there's not much point turning up anywhere before midnight; unless stated otherwise, everywhere stays open until 5am on Friday and Sat.u.r.day nights, 4am on other nights. at either 10pm or 11pm, there's not much point turning up anywhere before midnight; unless stated otherwise, everywhere stays open until 5am on Friday and Sat.u.r.day nights, 4am on other nights.

For gay and lesbian clubs see "Gay and lesbian Amsterdam".

Entertainment and nightlife Clubbing Clubbing Clubs Arena's Gravensandestraat 51 (The Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern Docklands) 020/850 2410, Gravensandestraat 51 (The Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern Docklands) 020/850 2410, www.hotelarena.nl. Part of a large, trendy hotel , this club, situated in a former chapel, opens Friday and Sat.u.r.day only. Occasionally hosts popular international acts, such as Hed Kandi.

Bitterzoet Spuistraat 2 (Old Centre) 020/521 3001, Spuistraat 2 (Old Centre) 020/521 3001, www.bitterzoet.com. s.p.a.cious but cosy two-floored bar and theatre hosting a mixed bag of events: DJs playing acid jazz, R&B, funk and disco, film screenings and occasional urban poetry nights.

't Blauwe Theehuis Vondelpark 5 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/662 0254, Vondelpark 5 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/662 0254, www.blauwetheehuis.nl. Free open-air dancing with DJs playing throughout the summer in the Vondelpark; usually weekends but check website for programme.

Club Home Wagenstraat 3 (Grachtengordel south) 020/620 1375, Wagenstraat 3 (Grachtengordel south) 020/620 1375, www.clubhome.nl. Relaxed dance club, spread over three floors and offering all styles of house and club music. Mixed audience with mainly students on Thursdays and the hip(per) on weekends. Thurs 11pm4am, Fri & Sat 10pm5am.

Club NL Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 169 (Old Centre) 020/622 7510, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 169 (Old Centre) 020/622 7510, www.clubnl.nl. What used to be the city's first lounge bar is now a posh, stylish house club, frequented by the rich and famous. Daily 10pm3am, Fri & Sat till 4am.

Dansen bij Jansen Handboogstraat 11 (Old Centre) 020/620 1779, Handboogstraat 11 (Old Centre) 020/620 1779, www.dansenbijjansen.nl. Founded by and for students, the popular dance nights here have an emphasis on disco, club cla.s.sics and R&B and, as you would expect, cheap beer. Open nightly from 11pm; officially you need student ID to get in.

Escape Rembrandtplein 11 (Grachtengordel south) 020/622 1111, Rembrandtplein 11 (Grachtengordel south) 020/622 1111, www.escape.nl. This vast club has s.p.a.ce enough to house two thousand people, but its glory days when it was home to Amsterdam's cutting edge Chemistry nights are long gone, and it now focuses on weekly club nights that pull in crowds of mainstream punters. Recent renovations and the opening of the Escape Escape cafe, lounge and studio should pull in more trendsetting crowds. Impressive sound system and visuals. ThursSun from 11pm. cafe, lounge and studio should pull in more trendsetting crowds. Impressive sound system and visuals. ThursSun from 11pm.

Heineken Music Hall ArenA Boulevard (Amsterdam Oost) 0900/68742 4255, ArenA Boulevard (Amsterdam Oost) 0900/68742 4255, www.heineken-music-hall.nl. Metro or train to Bijlmer station. Hosts dance events featuring well-known Dutch DJs, including the renowned Tiesto.

Jimmy Woo Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 18 (Grachtengordel south) 020/626 3150, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 18 (Grachtengordel south) 020/626 3150, www.jimmywoo.nl. Intimate and stylish club spread over two floors. Upstairs, the black lacquered walls, j.a.panese lamps and cosy booths with leather couches ooze s.e.xy chic, while downstairs a packed dancefloor throbs under the oscillating light from hundreds of light bulbs studded into the ceiling. Popular with young, well-dressed locals, so look smart if you want to join in. ThursSun from 11pm.

[image]Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234a (Grachtengordel south) 020/531 8181, Lijnbaansgracht 234a (Grachtengordel south) 020/531 8181, www.melkweg.nl. After the bands have finished, excellent offbeat disco sessions go on well into the small hours, sometimes featuring the best DJs in town. Also plays host to some of the most enjoyable theme nights around, ranging from African dance to experimental jazz-trance.

Nachttheater Sugar Factory Lijnbaansgracht 238 (Grachtengordel south) 020/627 0008, Lijnbaansgracht 238 (Grachtengordel south) 020/627 0008, www.sugarfactory.nl. Busy Leidseplein's "theatrical nightclub" hosts a stimulating programme of cabaret, live music, poetry and theatre up to two events a night, plus a late-night club that kicks off after the last show. Pulls in a young, trendy crowd. Closed Tues & Wed.

Odeon Singel 460 (Grachtengordel west) 020/521 8555, Singel 460 (Grachtengordel west) 020/521 8555, www.odeontheater.nl. Originally a brewery, this beautifully restored seventeenth-century ca.n.a.l house has since been a theatre, a cinema and a concert hall, until it was gutted in a fire in 1990. Rescued by the owners of the Hotel Arena Hotel Arena, it's now a stylish nightclub hosting Eighties parties and regular club nights (Fri & Sat) with a splendid bar overlooking the ca.n.a.l. There's also a restaurant (TuesSat) and a cafe (daily).

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Odeon [image]Panama Oostelijke Handelskade 4 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/311 8686, Oostelijke Handelskade 4 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/311 8686, www.panama.nl. One of Amsterdam's coolest clubs, Panama Panama overlooks the IJ and plays host to top-name international DJs ThursSun. Dress to impress. There's also a restaurant, which is open daily from noon. overlooks the IJ and plays host to top-name international DJs ThursSun. Dress to impress. There's also a restaurant, which is open daily from noon.

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Panama Paradiso Weteringschans 68 (Grachtengordel south) 020/626 4521, Weteringschans 68 (Grachtengordel south) 020/626 4521, www.paradiso.nl. One of the princ.i.p.al venues in the city, this converted church just around the corner from the Leidseplein is popular with an alternative crowd. On Wednesdays and Thursdays alternative dance night "Noodlanding" continues to draw in the crowds, and look out for DJ sets featuring live performances on Sat.u.r.days.

The Powerzone Spaklerweg (Outer districts) 020/681 8866, Spaklerweg (Outer districts) 020/681 8866, www.thepowerzone.nl. Metro Spaklerweg. Situated near Amstel station, southeast of the centre, this is a Sat.u.r.day-night party zone, with good trance and techno DJs both Dutch and international and a capacity of five thousand.

Studio 80 Rembrandtplein 17 (Grachtengordel south) 020/521 8333, Rembrandtplein 17 (Grachtengordel south) 020/521 8333, www.studio-80.nl. Right on the Rembrandtplein, this new club attracts the more fas.h.i.+onable underground scene with techno, soul, funk, minimal and electro. A creative breeding ground for young and upcoming DJs, bands and acts. WedMon 11pm4/5am.

Winston Kingdom Warmoesstraat 131 (Old Centre) 020/623 1380, Warmoesstraat 131 (Old Centre) 020/623 1380, www.winston.nl. This small venue adjacent to the Winston Hotel Winston Hotel offers eclectic club nights and performances. offers eclectic club nights and performances.

Zebra Lounge Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 14 (Grachtengordel south) 020/612 6153, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 14 (Grachtengordel south) 020/612 6153, www.the-zebra.nl. This small, stylish bar set over two floors attracts a lively, younger crowd than the neighbouring Jimmy Woo Jimmy Woo possibly owing to its less picky door staff. Fri & Sat only. possibly owing to its less picky door staff. Fri & Sat only.

Entertainment and nightlife Rock and pop As far as live music live music goes, Amsterdam is a regular tour stop for many major artists so keep an eye on the listings magazines. goes, Amsterdam is a regular tour stop for many major artists so keep an eye on the listings magazines. Dutch rock and pop Dutch rock and pop bands are often worth seeking out too. Look out for the celebrated Zuco 103, with a distinctive Brazilian sound, Junky XL and other members of the dance/hip-hop scene, or try to catch rock bands such as Blf, Kane or Spinvis. Anouk is also a popular draw. bands are often worth seeking out too. Look out for the celebrated Zuco 103, with a distinctive Brazilian sound, Junky XL and other members of the dance/hip-hop scene, or try to catch rock bands such as Blf, Kane or Spinvis. Anouk is also a popular draw.

In the southeastern suburbs, the superb 50,000-seater Amsterdam ArenA doubles as the city's music stadium stadium for big-name rock bands and artists. The Heineken Music Hall, a simple but acoustically impressive black box close to the ArenA, hosts medium-sized acts, while the two dedicated for big-name rock bands and artists. The Heineken Music Hall, a simple but acoustically impressive black box close to the ArenA, hosts medium-sized acts, while the two dedicated music venues music venues in Amsterdam city centre the Paradiso and the Melkweg are on a much smaller scale, and supply a daily programme of music to suit all tastes (and budgets). At the time of writing, plans were ahead to build a new music venue near the Amsterdam ArenA with a capacity of 15,000 visitors to fill the musical gap between stadium acts and smaller venues; in Amsterdam city centre the Paradiso and the Melkweg are on a much smaller scale, and supply a daily programme of music to suit all tastes (and budgets). At the time of writing, plans were ahead to build a new music venue near the Amsterdam ArenA with a capacity of 15,000 visitors to fill the musical gap between stadium acts and smaller venues; Ziggo Dome Ziggo Dome is scheduled to open early 2011. Alongside the main venues, the city's clubs, bars and multimedia centres host occasional performances by live bands. is scheduled to open early 2011. Alongside the main venues, the city's clubs, bars and multimedia centres host occasional performances by live bands.

As far as prices prices go, for big names you'll pay anything between 30 and 60 a ticket; ordinary gigs cost 815, although some places charge a members.h.i.+p fee ( go, for big names you'll pay anything between 30 and 60 a ticket; ordinary gigs cost 815, although some places charge a members.h.i.+p fee (lidmaatschap) on top.

Entertainment and nightlife Folk and world The Dutch folk music folk music tradition is virtually extinct in Amsterdam, except for occasional performances by the duo Acda and de Munnik. There are still one or two touring folk singers who perform traditional tradition is virtually extinct in Amsterdam, except for occasional performances by the duo Acda and de Munnik. There are still one or two touring folk singers who perform traditional smartlappen smartlappen ("torchsongs") at the Carre Theater and a few other sympathetic venues, but the best place to catch these traditional songs a brash and sentimental adaptation of French chanson is the cafe ("torchsongs") at the Carre Theater and a few other sympathetic venues, but the best place to catch these traditional songs a brash and sentimental adaptation of French chanson is the cafe Nol Nol, in the heart of the Jordaan, where they made their name. More accessible is world music world music, for which there are several good venues, including the Akhnaton, the Tropentheater and the Melkweg, the latter two being venues for the Amsterdam Roots Festival Amsterdam Roots Festival held in June. held in June.

Entertainment and nightlife Rock, pop and folk festivals Amsterdam doesn't have many outdoor music festivals outdoor music festivals, but the few events that do take place are usually well attended. Aside from the summer concerts held in the Vondelpark the Vondelpark, the Oosterpark hosts the free Roots Open Air Festival, a huge one-day event that attracts over 60,000 people and kicks off the aforementioned Roots Festival, though at the time of writing the future of the Roots Festival was uncertain. A new initiative is Live at Westerpark Live at Westerpark ( (www.liveatwesterpark.nl), a chain of concerts held in July on consecutive days around the Westergasterrein area Westergasterrein area, with artists such as Radiohead, R.E.M. and Lenny Kravitz.

Of the music festivals outside the city music festivals outside the city, the most famous is the Pinkpop Festival (www.pinkpop.nl) in May/June, down in the south in Landgraaf, near Maastricht. Others include A Campingflight to Lowlands (www.lowlands.nl), held over a weekend in August in Flevoland, and Parkpop (www.parkpop.nl), Europe's largest free festival, taking place in June at The Hague's Zuiderpark. Major dance festivals dance festivals include Dancevalley ( include Dancevalley (www.dancevalley.nl) in Spaarnwoude between Haarlem and Amsterdam, Mysteryland (www.mysteryland.nl) in Hoofddorp near Haarlem and Extrema Outdoor (www.extrema.nl) near Eindhoven in the south, all held in July/August. Dates vary, so check the websites before making plans.

Entertainment and nightlife Rock, pop and folk festivals Rock, pop and folk festivals Major venues Amsterdam ArenA ArenA Boulevard (Amsterdam Oost) 020/311 1333, ArenA Boulevard (Amsterdam Oost) 020/311 1333, www.amsterdamarena.nl. Metro or train to Bijlmer station. The Ajax soccer stadium also plays host to world-cla.s.s music acts such as the Rolling Stones and Madonna.

Heineken Music Hall See " See "Clubbing" for more. A hi-tech music venue attracting international bands ranging from Pink to Franz Ferdinand.

[image]Melkweg See " See "Clubs" for more. The Melkweg ("Milky Way") is probably Amsterdam's most famous entertainment venue and also ranks as one of the city's prime multimedia arts centres, with a young, hip clientele. A former dairy (hence the name) just round the corner from Leidseplein, it has two separate halls for live music, hosting a broad range of genres, from reggae to rock. Excellent DJ sessions go on till late at the weekend, with anything from dancehall to indie pop on Sat.u.r.days. There's also a monthly film programme, as well as a theatre, gallery and cafe-restaurant (Marnixstraat entrance; WedSun noon9pm).

[image]Paradiso Weteringschans 68 (Grachtengordel south) 020/626 4521, Weteringschans 68 (Grachtengordel south) 020/626 4521, www.paradiso.nl. This converted church near the Leidseplein, revered by many for its atmosphere and excellent programme, features local and international bands, ranging from the newly signed to the more established. The venue has also been known to host cla.s.sical concerts, as well as debates and multimedia events.

Entertainment and nightlife Rock, pop and folk festivals Rock, pop and folk festivals Smaller venues Akhnaton Nieuwezijds Kolk 25 (Old Centre) 020/624 3396, Nieuwezijds Kolk 25 (Old Centre) 020/624 3396, www.akhnaton.nl. A "Centre for World Culture" hosting a wide-ranging programme of events, from salsa nights to Turkish dance parties. On a good night, the place heaves.

Badcuyp Eerste Sweelinckstraat 10 (De Pijp, Outer districts) 020/675 9669, Sweelinckstraat 10 (De Pijp, Outer districts) 020/675 9669, www.badcuyp.nl. Unpretentious music venue located just off the bustling Albert Cuypmarkt, hosting mainly jazz and world music performances with an adjacent convivial eetcafe eetcafe. Dinner concerts on Thursday and Sunday.

De Buurvrouw St Pieterspoortsteeg 29 (Old Centre) 020/625 9654. Eclectic, alternative bar, occasionally featuring loud local bands. From 9pm. St Pieterspoortsteeg 29 (Old Centre) 020/625 9654. Eclectic, alternative bar, occasionally featuring loud local bands. From 9pm.

Cruise Inn Zuiderzeeweg 29 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) Zuiderzeeweg 29 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) www.cruise-inn.com. Tram #26 from CS. This volunteer-run clubhouse was set up over twenty years ago by a group of rockabillys. Open Sat.u.r.days only from 9pm and located somewhat off the beaten track in Zeeburg, to the northeast of the Oosterdok, but worth the trek, with jam sessions and great live band nights with music from the 1950s and 1960s.

De Heeren van Aemstel Thorbeckeplein 5 (Grachtengordel south) 020/620 2173, Thorbeckeplein 5 (Grachtengordel south) 020/620 2173, www.deheerenvanaemstel.nl. Warm, atmospheric cafe with swinging soul, jazz and funk gigs. WedSun.

Maloe Melo Lijnbaansgracht 163 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/420 4592, Lijnbaansgracht 163 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/420 4592, www.maloemelo.nl. Dark, low-ceilinged bar, with a small back room featuring lively local blues acts every day of the week. Jam sessions SunTues & Thurs. Free before 11pm, 5 thereafter.

Mulligan's Amstel 100 (Grachtengordel south) 020/622 1330, Amstel 100 (Grachtengordel south) 020/622 1330, www.mulligans.nl. Irish bar that's head and shoulders above the rest for atmosphere and authenticity, with Gaelic musicians and storytellers most nights for free.

OCCII Amstelveenseweg 134 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/671 7778, Amstelveenseweg 134 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/671 7778, www.occii.org. Former squat bar opposite the western entrance of the Vondelpark, with live alternative music, from indie pop to electro-punk.

Pakhuis Wilhelmina Veemkade 576 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/419 3368, Veemkade 576 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/419 3368, www.cafepakhuiswilhelmina.nl. Tucked away in an old warehouse, this underground venue hosts everything from jazz to pop, funk, punk and folk with live gigs and DJs from Thursday to Sunday.

Skek Zeedijk 4 (Old Centre) 020/427 0551, Zeedijk 4 (Old Centre) 020/427 0551, www.skek.nl. Frequent performances from Thursday to Sunday by singer-songwriters, hip-hop, rock and jazz acts in this pleasant eetcafe eetcafe run by students. run by students.

Tropentheater Linnaeusstraat 2 (Amsterdam Oost) 020/568 8500, Linnaeusstraat 2 (Amsterdam Oost) 020/568 8500, www.tropentheater.nl. Tram #9 from CS, or #10 from Leidseplein. Part of the Royal Tropeninst.i.tuut, east of Artis Zoo, this formal theatre specializes in non-Western drama, dance, film and music. A great place to take in live acts that you wouldn't normally get to see.

The Waterhole Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 49 (Grachtengordel south) 020/620 8904, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 49 (Grachtengordel south) 020/620 8904, www.thewaterhole.nl. Late-night bar with live music every night, ranging from punk and rock to jazz and blues. Popular for its regular Monday jam sessions, which attract a raucous but friendly crowd, and for its pool table and cheap beer. Sunday night is ladies' night, with half-price drinks.

Winston International Warmoesstraat 123 (Old Centre) 020/623 1380, Warmoesstraat 123 (Old Centre) 020/623 1380, www.winston.nl. Part of the arty Winston Hotel Winston Hotel, this adventurous small venue attracts an eclectic crowd and offers a mix of live bands, electro, drum 'n' ba.s.s and cheesy pop nights.

Entertainment and nightlife Jazz and Latin For jazz jazz fans, Amsterdam can be a treat. Ever since the 1940s and 1950s, when American jazz musicians began moving to Europe, the city has had a soft spot for jazz. Paris stole much of the limelight, but Chet Baker lived and died in Amsterdam, and he and any number of legendary jazzbos could once be found jamming into the small hours at Casablanca on Zeedijk. Venues have changed a lot since then, varying from tiny bars staging everything from Dixieland to avant-garde, to the large, modern Bimhuis the city's major jazz venue which plays host to both international names and home-grown talent. Pianist Michiel Borstlap, cellist Ernst Reijseger and sought-after percussionist Han Bennink member of the acclaimed contemporary jazz collective, ICP are among the fans, Amsterdam can be a treat. Ever since the 1940s and 1950s, when American jazz musicians began moving to Europe, the city has had a soft spot for jazz. Paris stole much of the limelight, but Chet Baker lived and died in Amsterdam, and he and any number of legendary jazzbos could once be found jamming into the small hours at Casablanca on Zeedijk. Venues have changed a lot since then, varying from tiny bars staging everything from Dixieland to avant-garde, to the large, modern Bimhuis the city's major jazz venue which plays host to both international names and home-grown talent. Pianist Michiel Borstlap, cellist Ernst Reijseger and sought-after percussionist Han Bennink member of the acclaimed contemporary jazz collective, ICP are among the Dutch musicians Dutch musicians you might come across, and they're well worth catching if you get the chance. you might come across, and they're well worth catching if you get the chance.

The jazz season jazz season runs from September to July, with concerts and festivals held all over the country. The Netherlands boasts one of the best jazz festivals in the world, the runs from September to July, with concerts and festivals held all over the country. The Netherlands boasts one of the best jazz festivals in the world, the North Sea Jazz Festival North Sea Jazz Festival, held in July at the Ahoy in Rotterdam. Comprising three days and nights of continuous jazz on fourteen stages, the event involves around 1200 musicians, among them world-cla.s.s performers, from Oscar Peterson to Guru's Jazzmatazz. Tickets Tickets cost from about 75 a day, with supplements for the big names. Information on the event is available from 015/214 8393, cost from about 75 a day, with supplements for the big names. Information on the event is available from 015/214 8393, www.northseajazz.com.

The Dutch connection with Surinam Surinam a former colony tucked in between Venezuela and Brazil means that there's a sizeable a former colony tucked in between Venezuela and Brazil means that there's a sizeable Latin American Latin American community in the city, and plenty of authentic salsa and other Latin sounds to be discovered; the best venue for this type of music is Akhnaton, while the Melkweg and Paradiso put on occasional salsa nights. community in the city, and plenty of authentic salsa and other Latin sounds to be discovered; the best venue for this type of music is Akhnaton, while the Melkweg and Paradiso put on occasional salsa nights.

Entertainment and nightlife Jazz and Latin Jazz and Latin Venues Akhnaton This crowded, lively venue is your best bet for Latin music. This crowded, lively venue is your best bet for Latin music.

Bimhuis Piet Heinkade 3 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/788 2150, Piet Heinkade 3 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/788 2150, www.bimhuis.nl. The city's premier jazz and improvised music venue is located right next to the Muziekgebouw, beside the River IJ to the east of Centraal Station. The Bimhuis showcases gigs from Dutch and international artists throughout the week, as well as jam sessions and workshops. There's also a bar and restaurant for concertgoers with pleasant views over the river.

Bourbon Street Leidsekruisstraat 6 (Grachtengordel south) 020/623 3440, Leidsekruisstraat 6 (Grachtengordel south) 020/623 3440, www.bourbonstreet.nl. Friendly bar with a relaxed atmosphere and quality blues and jazz nightly, MonThurs & Sun until 4am, Fri & Sat until 5am. Free entry before 11pm.

Cafe Alto Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 115 (Grachtengordel south) 020/626 3249, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 115 (Grachtengordel south) 020/626 3249, www.jazz-cafe-alto.nl. It's worth hunting out this legendary little jazz bar just off Leidseplein for the quality modern jazz every night from 9pm until 3am (and often much later). Though slightly cramped, it's big on atmosphere. Entry is free, and you don't have to buy a beer to hang out and watch the band.

Casablanca Zeedijk 26 (Old Centre) 020/625 5685, Zeedijk 26 (Old Centre) 020/625 5685, www.casablanca-amsterdam.nl. Though a shadow of its former self, Casablanca still hosts live jazz most nights of the week, when it's not putting on variety and cabaret shows. Check website for programme details.

De Engelbewaarder Kloveniersburgwal 59 (Old Centre) 020/625 3772. Comfy old bar with excellent live jazz sessions Sunday afternoons 47pm. Kloveniersburgwal 59 (Old Centre) 020/625 3772. Comfy old bar with excellent live jazz sessions Sunday afternoons 47pm.

Entertainment and nightlife Cla.s.sical and opera There's no shortage of cla.s.sical music cla.s.sical music concerts in Amsterdam, with two major orchestras based in the city, plus regular visits by other Dutch ensembles. The concerts in Amsterdam, with two major orchestras based in the city, plus regular visits by other Dutch ensembles. The Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra remains one of the most dynamic in the world, and occupies one of the finest concert halls to boot. The other resident orchestra is the remains one of the most dynamic in the world, and occupies one of the finest concert halls to boot. The other resident orchestra is the Netherlands Philharmonic Netherlands Philharmonic, also based in the Concertgebouw, which has a wide symphonic repertoire and also performs with the Netherlands Opera at the Muziektheater. Among visiting orchestras, the Rotterdam Philharmonic has a world-cla.s.s reputation, as does the Radio Philharmonic Orchestra, based in Hilversum outside Amsterdam.

As well as the main concert halls, a number of Amsterdam's churches (and former churches) host regular performances of cla.s.sical and chamber music both types of venue are listed here. Others, including the Nieuwe Kerk on Dam Square, the Westerkerk, the Noorderkerk, the Mozes en Aaronkerk on Waterlooplein, and the tiny Amstelkerk on Kerkstraat, occasionally put on one-off concerts, often at very reasonable prices (check with venues for programme details).

The most prestigious venue for opera opera is the Muziektheater (otherwise known as the "Stopera") on Waterlooplein, which is home to the Netherlands Opera company as well as the Dutch National Ballet. Visiting companies sometimes perform here, but more often at the Stadsschouwburg or the Carre Theater. is the Muziektheater (otherwise known as the "Stopera") on Waterlooplein, which is home to the Netherlands Opera company as well as the Dutch National Ballet. Visiting companies sometimes perform here, but more often at the Stadsschouwburg or the Carre Theater.

Tickets are excellent value and aren't as exclusively priced as some European cities, starting from as little as 7.50 for matinee concerts, and rising to 70 for big-name performers. are excellent value and aren't as exclusively priced as some European cities, starting from as little as 7.50 for matinee concerts, and rising to 70 for big-name performers.

As far as contemporary cla.s.sical music contemporary cla.s.sical music goes, the Muziekgebouw, overlooking the River IJ, is the city's leading showcase for musicians from all over the world. Local talent is headed by the Asko and Schoenberg ensembles, as well as the Nieuw Ensemble and the Volharding Orchestra. Look out also for Willem Breuker and Maarten Altena, two popular musicians who successfully combine improvised jazz with composed, contemporary cla.s.sical music. goes, the Muziekgebouw, overlooking the River IJ, is the city's leading showcase for musicians from all over the world. Local talent is headed by the Asko and Schoenberg ensembles, as well as the Nieuw Ensemble and the Volharding Orchestra. Look out also for Willem Breuker and Maarten Altena, two popular musicians who successfully combine improvised jazz with composed, contemporary cla.s.sical music.

Entertainment and nightlife Cla.s.sical music festivals By far the most prestigious multi-venue Dutch festival for contemporary cla.s.sical music is the annual Holland Festival Holland Festival ( (www.hollandfestival.nl) in June, which attracts the best of the country's mainstream and fringe performers in all areas of the arts, as well as an exciting international line-up. Otherwise, one of the more interesting, music-oriented events is the popular Grachtenfestival Grachtenfestival, held at the end of August, a week-long cla.s.sical music festival (www.grachtenfestival.nl), which concludes with a piano recital on a floating stage outside the Pulitzer Hotel Pulitzer Hotel on the Prinsengracht with the whole area floodlit and filled with small boats; this can be a wonderfully atmospheric evening. Also around this time and from two ends of the musical spectrum Utrecht plays host to the internationally renowned on the Prinsengracht with the whole area floodlit and filled with small boats; this can be a wonderfully atmospheric evening. Also around this time and from two ends of the musical spectrum Utrecht plays host to the internationally renowned Early Music Festival Early Music Festival ( (www.oudemuziek.nl), while in early September, Amsterdam holds the International Gaudeamus Music Week International Gaudeamus Music Week ( (www.gaudeamus.nl), a forum for debate and premiere performances of cutting-edge contemporary music.

Entertainment and nightlife Cla.s.sical music festivals Cla.s.sical music festivals Venues Beurs van Berlage Damrak 277 (Old Centre) 020/521 7575, Damrak 277 (Old Centre) 020/521 7575, www.berlage.com. The splendid interior of the former stock exchange s the setting for regular exhibitions and concerts, though nowadays it's used more for conferences. The resident Netherlands Philharmonic rehea.r.s.e in the huge Amvest Zaal, the former Corn Exchange Hall, a gla.s.sed-in pavilion. The gla.s.s-roofed Yakult Zaal (Main Hall) was the location for the royal wedding of Prince Willem-Alexander and Princess Maxima in 2002.

Carre Theater Amstel 115125 (Grachtengordel south) 020/524 9452, Amstel 115125 (Grachtengordel south) 020/524 9452, www.theatercarre.nl. This splendid late nineteenth-century structure (originally built for a circus) represents the ultimate venue for Dutch folk artists, and hosts all kinds of international performances: anything from Antony and the Johnsons to Carmen Carmen, with reputable touring orchestras and opera companies squeezed in between.

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Carre Theater Concertgebouw Concertgebouwplein 26 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/671 8345, Concertgebouwplein 26 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/671 8345, www.concertgebouw.nl. Hearing a concert at the Concertgebouw, one of the most impressive looking and sounding venues in the city, is a great experience, especially when the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra put on one of their regular performances. The acoustics of the Grote Zaal (Great Hall) are unparalleled, while the smaller Kleine Zaal regularly hosts chamber concerts.Though both halls boast a star-studded international programme, prices are very reasonable, ranging from 15 to 50 (15 for the sponsored Sunday-morning events, JuneSept). Free Wednesday lunchtime concerts are held from Sept to May (doors open 12.15pm; arrive early), and in July and Aug there's a heavily subsidized series of summer concerts. Look out also for occasional world music and swing/jazz nights.

Engelse Kerk Begijnhof 48 (Old Centre) 020/624 9665. The church with the biggest programme: three to four performances a week, usually Fri, Sat & Sun (performances at 3.15pm or 8.15pm). Tickets are available from the church 30min before the start of performance or in advance from the Uitburo (see " Begijnhof 48 (Old Centre) 020/624 9665. The church with the biggest programme: three to four performances a week, usually Fri, Sat & Sun (performances at 3.15pm or 8.15pm). Tickets are available from the church 30min before the start of performance or in advance from the Uitburo (see "Information").

Marionetten Theater Nieuwe Jonkerstraat 8 (Old Centre) 020/620 8027, Nieuwe Jonkerstraat 8 (Old Centre) 020/620 8027, www.marionettentheater.nl. Maintains an old European tradition with its performances of operas by Mozart and Offenbach. Although they tour the Netherlands and the rest of Europe for most of the year, the wooden marionettes return to Amsterdam in spring, October and Christmas. Call for details of performances, and to find out about their opera dinners.

Muziekgebouw Piet Heinkade 1 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/788 2000, Piet Heinkade 1 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/788 2000, www.muziekgebouw.nl. East of Centraal Station, Amsterdam's newest concert hall for over a hundred years, with two new medium-sized concert halls, a cafe, bar and state-of-the-art acoustics, has given new impetus to the redevelopment going on along the IJ. Its top-quality programme of opera and orchestral music draws a highbrow crowd to this part of town. Worth a visit for the building alone; the cafe offers great views over the water. The same development also includes the relocated Bimhuis.

Muziektheater Waterlooplein 22 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/625 5455, Waterlooplein 22 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/625 5455, www.hetmuziektheater.nl. Part of the 150 million complex that includes the city hall. The theatre's resident company, Netherlands Opera, offers the fullest, and most reasonably priced, programme of opera in Amsterdam; not surprisingly, tickets go very quickly.

Oude Kerk Oudekerksplein 23 (Old Centre) 020/625 8284, Oudekerksplein 23 (Old Centre) 020/625 8284, www.oudekerk.nl. Hosts organ and carillon recitals, as well as occasional choral events.

Stadsschouwburg Leidseplein 26 (Grachtengordel south) 020/624 2311, Leidseplein 26 (Grachtengordel south) 020/624 2311, www.ssba.nl. Somewhat overshadowed by the Muziektheater these days, but still staging significant opera, theatre and dance, as well as occasionally hosting visiting English-language theatre companies. At the time of writing, the construction of their newest concert hall, which will be built over the roof of the Melkweg, was in progress.

Waalse Kerk Oudezijds Achterburgwal 159 (Old Centre) 020/623 2074, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 159 (Old Centre) 020/623 2074, www.waalsekerk-amsterdam.nl. Weekend afternoon and evening concerts of early cla.s.sical and chamber music.

Entertainment and nightlife Theatre, cabaret and comedy Surprisingly for a city that functions so much in English, there is next to no English-language drama English-language drama to be seen in Amsterdam, though a handful of amateur companies put on two or three English productions during the summer, and there are also occasional performances by touring groups at the theatres listed below and at other venues dotted around town. to be seen in Amsterdam, though a handful of amateur companies put on two or three English productions during the summer, and there are also occasional performances by touring groups at the theatres listed below and at other venues dotted around town.

English-language comedy comedy and and cabaret cabaret, on the other hand, has gained some ground in Amsterdam, spearheaded by the resident and extremely successful "Boom Chicago" comedy company. During the summer in particular, a number of small venues host mini-seasons of English-language stand-up comedy and cabaret, featuring touring British performers and material that's generally targeted at visitors to the city.

Most of Amsterdam's larger theatre companies larger theatre companies concentrate either on foreign works in translation or Dutch-language theatre, neither of which is likely to be terribly interesting for the non-Dutch speaker. However, there are plenty of concentrate either on foreign works in translation or Dutch-language theatre, neither of which is likely to be terribly interesting for the non-Dutch speaker. However, there are plenty of avant-garde avant-garde theatre groups in the city, much of whose work relies on visual rather than verbal impact, as well as one or two companies devoted to theatre groups in the city, much of whose work relies on visual rather than verbal impact, as well as one or two companies devoted to mime mime. Look out also for performances at the Amsterdam Marionetten Theater Marionetten Theater. The Amsterdamse Bos Theatre (www.bostheater.nl) puts on summertime open-air performances of Shakespeare's plays (in Dutch). It's an atmospheric evening, with audiences picnicking before the show.

The main event to watch out for, apart from the mainstream Holland Festival (see "Cla.s.sical music festivals"), is the summer-long Over Het IJ Festival Over Het IJ Festival (info 020/624 6380, (info 020/624 6380, www.overhetij.nl), a showcase for all kinds of performance arts at large, often outdoor locations in Amsterdam Noord (thus "over the IJ"). The partic.i.p.ation of many interesting small companies pushes the standard of the average production well above that of the usual fringe festival acts. In June, the International Theatre School Festival International Theatre School Festival ( (www.itsfestival.nl) sees the four theatres on Nes, a tiny alley running from Dam square parallel to Rokin, host productions by local and international theatre schools.

Entertainment and nightlife Theatre, cabaret and comedy Theatre, cabaret and comedy Major venues De Balie Kleine-Gartmanplantsoen 10 (Grachtengordel south) 020/553 5151, Kleine-Gartmanplantsoen 10 (Grachtengordel south) 020/553 5151, www.debalie.nl. A multimedia centre for arts and culture located off the Leidseplein, which often plays host to drama, debates, international symposia and the like, sometimes in conjunction with the Paradiso next door. Also has a lovely, roomy, mezzanine bar.

[image]Boom Chicago Leidseplein 12 (Grachtengordel south) 020/423 0101, Leidseplein 12 (Grachtengordel south) 020/423 0101, www.boomchicago.nl. Something of a phenomenon in Amsterdam, this rapid-fire improv comedy troupe hailing from America performs at the Leidseplein Theater nightly to crowds of both tourists and locals, and receives rave reviews. Inexpensive food, c.o.c.ktails and beer served in pitchers.

Carre Theater See " See "Venues" for more. A chunky old building on the eastern bank of the Amstel which, aside from its folk a.s.sociations, hosts all kinds of top international acts, with an emphasis on hit musicals.

Comedy Cafe Max Euweplein 43 (Grachtengordel south) 020/638 3971, Max Euweplein 43 (Grachtengordel south) 020/638 3971, www.comedycafe.nl. Small stand-up theatre with a bar and restaurant that sometimes hosts English-language acts; look out for Sunday night's "In Your Face", an improv show in English.

De Kleine Komedie Amstel 56 (Grachtengordel south) 020/624 0534, Amstel 56 (Grachtengordel south) 020/624 0534, www.dekleinekomedie.nl. One of Amsterdam's oldest theatres, established in 1786, which occasionally hosts English-language shows.

[image]Melkweg See " See "Clubs" for more. At the centre of the city's cultural scene, this is often the first-choice venue for foreign touring companies.

Stadsschouwburg See " See "Venues" for more. Occasionally hosts productions on tour from London or New York.