The Rough Guide To Amsterdam Part 15

Gay and lesbian Amsterdam Shops and services Shops and services Saunas Sauna Damrak Damrak 54 (Old Centre) 020/622 6012. Centrally located gay men's sauna; 14.50, including towels. You can also get a private sauna for two for 33 per hour; towels extra. MonFri 10am11pm, Sat & Sun noon8pm. Damrak 54 (Old Centre) 020/622 6012. Centrally located gay men's sauna; 14.50, including towels. You can also get a private sauna for two for 33 per hour; towels extra. MonFri 10am11pm, Sat & Sun noon8pm.

Thermos Sauna Raamstraat 33 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/623 9158, Raamstraat 33 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/623 9158, www.thermos.nl. Modern gay men's sauna, with steam room, swimming pool, sun beds, cinema, cafe and bar spread over five floors. Daily noon8am; day pa.s.s 19, under-25s 14. There's also a beauty salon, offering facials, waxing, body treatments and ma.s.sage (daily noon8pm).

Kids' Amsterdam With its ca.n.a.ls, narrow cobbled alleys and trams, the novelty value of Amsterdam can prove entertaining enough for many kids aged six and above. There's also a whole host of attractions attractions specifically aimed at young children, ranging from circuses and puppet theatres to urban farms and one of the best zoos in Europe, with a Planetarium attached. There are also plenty of opportunities for play practically all of the city's specifically aimed at young children, ranging from circuses and puppet theatres to urban farms and one of the best zoos in Europe, with a Planetarium attached. There are also plenty of opportunities for play practically all of the city's parks parks and most patches of greenery have some form of playground, and the recreation area in the Vondelpark is heaven for kids and parents alike. and most patches of greenery have some form of playground, and the recreation area in the Vondelpark is heaven for kids and parents alike.

You'll find most places pretty child-friendly; the majority of restaurants have highchairs and special children's menus, and bars don't seem to mind accompanied kids, as long as they're well behaved. Indeed, having a small child in your care is unlikely to close many doors to you in Amsterdam.

Though not all hotels welcome young children, this will be made clear to you when you book. If you require a babysitting babysitting service, contact Oppascentrale Kriterion (daily 4.308pm, Mon also 911am; 020/624 5848, service, contact Oppascentrale Kriterion (daily 4.308pm, Mon also 911am; 020/624 5848, www.oppascentralekriterion.nl), a long-established agency with a good reputation.

Kids' Amsterdam Activities For older children, a good introduction to Amsterdam might be one of the ca.n.a.l trips ca.n.a.l trips that start from Centraal Station or Damrak. Much more fun, though, is a ride on a that start from Centraal Station or Damrak. Much more fun, though, is a ride on a ca.n.a.l bike ca.n.a.l bike. This can get tiring, but jetties where these pedalo-style bikes can be picked up and dropped off are numerous, and it's quite safe; see "Water transport" for details. If your kids enjoy being on the water, you could also take them on a free ferry ride ferry ride to Amsterdam Noord (only 5min away). The to Amsterdam Noord (only 5min away). The Buiksloterwegveer Buiksloterwegveer is a small, tug-like ferry, which leaves day and night every six to twelve minutes or so from behind Centraal Station and travels back and forth to the north side of the River IJ. Cars aren't allowed, but you can take bikes and motorbikes. For more details on the city's is a small, tug-like ferry, which leaves day and night every six to twelve minutes or so from behind Centraal Station and travels back and forth to the north side of the River IJ. Cars aren't allowed, but you can take bikes and motorbikes. For more details on the city's ca.n.a.l cruises and bike tours ca.n.a.l cruises and bike tours, see "Tour operators".

For panoramic views views of the city, try climbing the of the city, try climbing the tower tower of the Westerkerk (summer only; see " of the Westerkerk (summer only; see "Westermarkt"). Alternatively, see Amsterdam on two wheels: it's possible to take the kids along when you're cycling cycling around the city, by renting either a bike with a child seat attached, or a tandem, depending on the size of the child. Bike City at Bloemgracht 70 (020/626 3721, around the city, by renting either a bike with a child seat attached, or a tandem, depending on the size of the child. Bike City at Bloemgracht 70 (020/626 3721, www.bikecity.nl) rents out both types and gives friendly advice too.

In the winter, there's ice skating ice skating at the Jaap Eden IJsbanen, which has indoor and outdoor rinks. If the ca.n.a.ls are frozen over and you don't have any skates, just teeter along on the ice with everybody else; see " at the Jaap Eden IJsbanen, which has indoor and outdoor rinks. If the ca.n.a.ls are frozen over and you don't have any skates, just teeter along on the ice with everybody else; see "Ice skating" for safety points before venturing out. Another option is bowling bowling; the centre near the RAI complex has eighteen lanes and a cafe (see "Bowling").

The best swimming pool swimming pool for kids is the indoor, tropical-style Mirandabad, De Mirandalaan 9 (020/546 4444; tram #25), which has all sorts of gimmicks such as wave machines, slides and whirlpools; there's also a separate toddlers' pool. In summer, the most popular outdoor pool is in the Flevopark; for details of this and other outdoor pools, see " for kids is the indoor, tropical-style Mirandabad, De Mirandalaan 9 (020/546 4444; tram #25), which has all sorts of gimmicks such as wave machines, slides and whirlpools; there's also a separate toddlers' pool. In summer, the most popular outdoor pool is in the Flevopark; for details of this and other outdoor pools, see "Pool and carambole".

The Huis van Aristoteles Huis van Aristoteles at the Westergasfabriek (Wed, Sat & Sun 10am11.30am & 25pm; 5 per person; 020/486 2499) is a giant play area for kids, with lots of little houses and levels to explore and regular film and theatre showings. at the Westergasfabriek (Wed, Sat & Sun 10am11.30am & 25pm; 5 per person; 020/486 2499) is a giant play area for kids, with lots of little houses and levels to explore and regular film and theatre showings.

Finally, TunFun TunFun (Mr Visserplein 7 020/689 4300, (Mr Visserplein 7 020/689 4300, www.tunfun.nl; tram #9 from CS or #14 to Mr Visserplein), near the Esnoga (Portuguese synagogue), is a large underground playground with slides, trampolines and climbing apparatus, for children aged 1 to 12. Activities include gymnastics, bowling and indoor football, as well as organized events such as discos and birthday parties, and there's plenty of equipment to clamber into, under and over. It's open daily from 10am to 6pm, and costs 7.50 for 1- to 12-year-olds (free for adults and under-1s). Children must be accompanied by an adult, but there is a cafe to escape to.

Kids' Amsterdam Parks and farms The city's most central park, the leafy and lawned Vondelpark Vondelpark ( (www.vondelpark.nl; see "The Vondelpark") has an excellent playground, as well as sandpits, paddling pools and a couple of cafes where you can take a break. De Vondeltuin De Vondeltuin, a cafe on the Amstelveen side of the park, rents out skates in the summer and is perfectly situated opposite the playground. Also in summertime, the open-air theatre, Openluchttheater, usually puts on some free entertainment for kids mime, puppets, acrobats and the like.

Most other city parks offer something to keep children entertained, the best being the Gaasperpark Gaasperpark, located about 8km southeast of the centre (metro stop Gaasperplas), which has a play area and paddling pools. In the Amsterdamse Bos Amsterdamse Bos ( (www.amsterdamsebos.nl; see "The Amsterdamse Bos") you'll find playgrounds, lakes, cycle paths and a nature reserve with bison and sheep, and you can also rent canoes and pedaloes to explore the waterways, or visit the Geitenhouderij Ridammerhoeve Geitenhouderij Ridammerhoeve (MarchOct daily 10am5pm, except Tues; NovFeb also closed Mon; 020/645 5034, (MarchOct daily 10am5pm, except Tues; NovFeb also closed Mon; 020/645 5034, www.geitenhouderij.nl), an enjoyable mini-farm with a herd of goats and their kids. The visitors' information centre near the Bosbaan entrance has a kids' area and exhibitions about the park.

There are also plenty of urban farms urban farms dotted around the city look in the phone book under dotted around the city look in the phone book under Kinderboerderij Kinderboerderij for a full list. One of the best is the for a full list. One of the best is the Artis Zoo Children's Farm Artis Zoo Children's Farm, which can be visited alongside a trip to the zoo itself; see "Artis Zoo" for details.

Kids' Amsterdam Theatres, circuses and funfairs A number of theatres theatres put on inexpensive (around 34) entertainment for children most afternoons. Furthermore, a fair proportion offer put on inexpensive (around 34) entertainment for children most afternoons. Furthermore, a fair proportion offer mime mime- or puppet puppet-based shows, suitable for English-speakers: check the children's section ("Jeugdagenda") of the monthly Uitkrant Uitkrant(see "Information"), and look for the words mimegroep mimegroep and and poppentheater poppentheater. Public holidays and the summer season bring touring circuses circuses and the occasional travelling and the occasional travelling funfair funfair ( (kermis) to the city, usually setting up on Dam Square or in one of the city's many parks. Lastly, check out the festivals festivals listings in " listings in "Festivals and events"; many of them, such as the Queen's Day celebrations, are enjoyable for kids too.

Circustheater Elleboog Pa.s.seerdersgracht 32 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/623 5326, Pa.s.seerdersgracht 32 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/623 5326, www.elleboog.nl. This club runs regular courses for children aged 612 on how to juggle, walk the tightrope, unicycle and do conjuring tricks. Workshops also available for around 10 during school holidays. Students put on occasional shows at various venues around the city. Phone or email for full details of times and prices.

De Krakeling Nieuwe Pa.s.seerdersstraat 1 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/624 5123, Nieuwe Pa.s.seerdersstraat 1 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/624 5123, www.krakeling.nl. Permanent children's theatre, with shows for youngsters up to the age of 18, often with an emphasis on full-scale audience partic.i.p.ation. Performances are mostly in Dutch, though the theatre also puts on a number of dance events which non-Dutch speakers will appreciate.

Kids' Amsterdam The zoo and museums A trip to Artis Zoo Artis Zoo is one of the best days out for kids in the city. The ticket price includes entry to the zoo and its botanical gardens, the Zoological Museum, the Geological Museum, the Aquarium and the Planetarium. You can also go on a ca.n.a.l cruise; the Artis Express runs daily 10am2pm every thirty minutes from Centraal Station to the zoo, including a detour through the city on the return journey (departs zoo hourly 2.155.15pm). A return ticket costs 21.50, or 17 for 3- to 9-year-olds, and includes entry to the zoo. Further information on 020/530 1090 or is one of the best days out for kids in the city. The ticket price includes entry to the zoo and its botanical gardens, the Zoological Museum, the Geological Museum, the Aquarium and the Planetarium. You can also go on a ca.n.a.l cruise; the Artis Express runs daily 10am2pm every thirty minutes from Centraal Station to the zoo, including a detour through the city on the return journey (departs zoo hourly 2.155.15pm). A return ticket costs 21.50, or 17 for 3- to 9-year-olds, and includes entry to the zoo. Further information on 020/530 1090 or www.lovers.nl.

Artis Zoo Plantage Kerklaan 3840 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/523 3400, Plantage Kerklaan 3840 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/523 3400, www.artis.nl; metro Waterlooplein, tram #9, #10 or #14. Opened in 1838, this is the oldest zoo in the country, and it's now one of the city's top tourist attractions, though thankfully its layout and refres.h.i.+ng lack of bars and cages mean that it never feels overcrowded. Highlights include an African savanna environment, huge aquariums and an aviary. In addition to the usual lions, monkeys and creepy-crawlies, there's also a children's farm where kids come nose-to-nose with sheep, calves, goats, etc. Feeding times always draw a crowd and take place as follows: 10.45am birds of prey; 11.30am and 3.45pm seals and sea lions; 12.30pm crocodiles (Sun only); 2pm pelicans; 3pm lions and tigers (not Thurs); 3.30pm penguins. The on-site Planetarium has five or six shows daily, all in Dutch, though you can pick up a leaflet with an English translation from the desk. An English guidebook for the whole complex costs 2.50. No dogs allowed. Daily: AprilOct 9am6pm; NovMarch 9am5pm; JuneAug till sundown on Sat with special activities. Adults 18.50, 3- to 9-year-olds 15.

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Artis Zoo Madame Tussaud's Dam 20 (Old Centre) 020/523 0623, Dam 20 (Old Centre) 020/523 0623, www.madametussauds.nl. Large waxworks collection with the usual smattering of famous people and rock stars, as well as Dutch celebrities and the royal family, plus a few Amsterdam peasants and merchants thrown in for local colour. Hardly the high point of anyone's trip to the city, but some parts might be of interest to teenagers, such as Karaoke Corner, the "Models" zone, and the odd actor jumping out at you at unexpected moments. Daily 10am5.30pm, school summer holidays till 8.30pm. Adults 21; 5- to 15-year-olds 16; family tickets available.

NEMO Oosterdok 2 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/531 3233, Oosterdok 2 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/531 3233, www.e-nemo.nl; bus #22 to Kadijksplein, ten-minute walk from CS. The whopping great green building that marks the entrance to the IJ tunnel is home to NEMO, a large, six-floor science and technology centre, whose interactive exhibits are geared towards children. Interaction is encouraged and the whole experience is very hands-on. Labelling is in Dutch and English. TuesSun 10am5pm, plus Mon during school holidays in July & Aug. 12.50, under-4s free.

The Amsterdam Dungeon Rokin 78 (Old Centre) 020/530 8500, Rokin 78 (Old Centre) 020/530 8500, www.thedungeons.com. Tram #4, #9, #16, #24 or #25 from CS. Popular but rather pricey sight housed in a former church. Tours last for around an hour, during which you're handed from one ham actor to another, making believe you have been sentenced by the Inquisition, press-ganged onto the high seas, chased by witches and surrounded by plague victims until you're finally swept around the interior of the church on a short roller coaster ride. Discount coupons are available in many hotels. Daily 11am5pm; 21, children 16, half-price if booked online.

Tropenmuseum Junior Tropenmuseum, Linnaeusstraat 2 (Amsterdam Oost) 020/568 8233, Tropenmuseum, Linnaeusstraat 2 (Amsterdam Oost) 020/568 8233, www.tropenmuseumjunior.nl; tram #9 from CS. Designed especially for children between the ages of 4 and 12, the museum's aim is to promote international understanding through exhibitions, tours and performances on other cultures. It's nowhere near as dry as it sounds, and although the show is in Dutch only, this is more than compensated for by the lively exhibits, which are expertly presented and supported by music and dance performances, all designed to fascinate children, with lots of things for kids to get their hands on. Workshops on Sat, Sun & school holidays 1pm & 3pm, plus Wed 3pm; call to reserve. Adults 8, 6- to 17-year-olds 4, under-5s free.

Kids' Amsterdam Cafes and pancake houses KinderKookKafe Vondelpark 6b/Overtoom 325 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/625 3257, Vondelpark 6b/Overtoom 325 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/625 3257, www.kinderkookkafe.nl. A cafe especially for kids, with a self-service bar where kids can prepare their own food, like pizzas, sandwiches and cakes. The cafe is open to all, unless booked for a party. Booking essential at weekends (times vary so check the website). Adults 10, 6- to 12-year-olds 5 (10 if cooking), under-6s 2.50.

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KinderKookKafe The Pancake Bakery Prinsengracht 191 (Grachtengordel west) 020/625 1333, Prinsengracht 191 (Grachtengordel west) 020/625 1333, www.pancake.nl. Busy, well-known pancake and omelette house that caters especially well for children. The pancakes are delicious, and kids are kept entertained at the table with pens, paper and novelty toys. Children's pancakes start at around 5.50 with toy; adults' pancakes also start from 5.50 but no toy. Daily noon9.30pm.

Kids' Amsterdam Shops Azzurro Kids P.C. Hooftstraat 122 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/673 0457, P.C. Hooftstraat 122 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/673 0457, www.azzurrokids.nl. Perhaps the city's chicest kids' clothes store, stocking labels such as Diesel, Replay, Armani and Baby Dior. Mon 16pm, TuesSat 10am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun noon5pm.

De Beestenwinkel Staalstraat 11 (Old Centre) 020/623 1805, Staalstraat 11 (Old Centre) 020/623 1805, www.beestenwinkel.nl. Well-made stuffed toy animals, in all shapes and sizes. Mon noon6pm, TuesFri 10am6pm, Sat 10am5.30pm, Sun noon5.30pm.

De Bijenkorf Dam 1 (Old Centre) 020/552 1700. This department store has one of the best (and most reasonably priced) toy sections in town. Mon 11am7pm, Tues & Wed 9.30am7pm, Thurs & Fri 9.30am9pm, Sat 9.30am7pm, Sun noon6pm. Dam 1 (Old Centre) 020/552 1700. This department store has one of the best (and most reasonably priced) toy sections in town. Mon 11am7pm, Tues & Wed 9.30am7pm, Thurs & Fri 9.30am9pm, Sat 9.30am7pm, Sun noon6pm.

Broer & Zus Rozengracht 104 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/422 9002, Rozengracht 104 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/422 9002, www.broerenzus.nl. Cool, urban streetwear and gifts with a funky twist for babies and children up to age 8, from T-s.h.i.+rts with logos to wooden toys and cute bags. The range includes the store's own clothing label plus a few mid-range Dutch children's designers. TuesFri 10.30am6pm, Sat 10am6pm.

De Geboortewinkel Bosboom Toussaintstraat 22 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/683 1806, Bosboom Toussaintstraat 22 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/683 1806, www.degeboortewinkel.nl. Specialists in all kinds of stuff for new or expectant parents, from quality clothes and bedding to prams and furniture. Mon 16pm, TuesSat 10am6pm.

Intertoys Heiligeweg 26 (Old Centre) 020/638 3356, Heiligeweg 26 (Old Centre) 020/638 3356, www.intertoys.nl. Amsterdam's largest toy shop, with branches throughout the city. Mon 11am6pm, TuesFri 9.30am6pm (Thurs till 9pm) Sat 9.30am5.30pm, Sun noon5pm.

De Kinderbrillenwinkel Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 129131 (Old Centre) 020/626 4091, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 129131 (Old Centre) 020/626 4091, www.kinderbrillenwinkel.com. Shop specializing in spectacles for children of all ages, with a selection of very stylish frames for adults available next door at Marcel Barlag Visuals. WedSat 11am6pm (till 5pm Sat).

Oilily P.C. Hooftstraat 131133 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/672 3361. This marvellous children's clothing chain has been dressing the luckiest Dutch kids in colourful and, let's face it, pretty expensive outfits since the 1960s, and is still going strong here in its flags.h.i.+p Amsterdam location. Mon 16pm, TuesSat 10am6pm (Thurs till 9pm). P.C. Hooftstraat 131133 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/672 3361. This marvellous children's clothing chain has been dressing the luckiest Dutch kids in colourful and, let's face it, pretty expensive outfits since the 1960s, and is still going strong here in its flags.h.i.+p Amsterdam location. Mon 16pm, TuesSat 10am6pm (Thurs till 9pm).

Teuntje Haarlemmerdijk 132 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/625 3432, Haarlemmerdijk 132 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/625 3432, www.teuntje.nu. Large shop stocking a wide range of prams and strollers, including models by Bugaboo and Easywalker, as well as carriers and highchairs. The store also sells toys, a good range of clothing (08yrs) and shoes. Mon 16pm, TuesFri 10am6pm, Sat 10am5pm.

Tinkerbell Spiegelgracht 10 (Grachtengordel south) 020/625 8830, Spiegelgracht 10 (Grachtengordel south) 020/625 8830, www.tinkerbelltoys.nl. A wonderful shop full of old-fas.h.i.+oned toys, mobiles, models and kids' books, with all purchases beautifully gift-wrapped. Mon 16pm, TuesSat 10am6pm, Sun noon5pm.

Sports and activities Most visitors to Amsterdam tend to confine their exercise to walking around the major sights, but if you do get the urge to stretch your muscles, there's a wide range of sports to enjoy. In winter if it's cold enough skating skating on the frozen waterways is the most popular and enjoyable activity; other winter sports are mostly played in private health or sports clubs, to which you can usually get a day pa.s.s, though many are well outside the city centre. on the frozen waterways is the most popular and enjoyable activity; other winter sports are mostly played in private health or sports clubs, to which you can usually get a day pa.s.s, though many are well outside the city centre.

The chief spectator sport is football football. Amsterdam is home to the legendary Ajax (p.r.o.nounced "eye-axe") who play in the impressive ArenA stadium situated in the eastern suburbs. Less mainstream offerings include Holland's own korfbal korfbal and and carambole carambole. For up-to-the-minute details on all sporting activities in the city, call the city's sport and recreation information service on 020/552 2490 (MonFri 9am5pm), or go to www.sport.amsterdam.nl, though this website is in Dutch only.

Sports and activities Baseball (Honkbal) Local team the Amsterdam Pirates Amsterdam Pirates are in the top baseball division, and based at Sportpark Ookmeer in Osdorp (020/616 2151; tram #17 then bus #19 or #192), 4km west of the centre. Matches take place on either Sat.u.r.day or Sunday afternoons (2pm) in the summer, and most games are free. are in the top baseball division, and based at Sportpark Ookmeer in Osdorp (020/616 2151; tram #17 then bus #19 or #192), 4km west of the centre. Matches take place on either Sat.u.r.day or Sunday afternoons (2pm) in the summer, and most games are free.

Sports and activities Beaches The Netherlands has some great sandy beaches beaches, although it has to be said that the weather is notoriously unreliable. Temperatures can be bracing and the North Sea is pretty murky and often teeming with jellyfish. For swimming and sunbathing, the nearest resort is Zandvoort Zandvoort, a couple of short train rides from Amsterdam (via Haarlem), but there are nicer, quieter stretches of coast nearby, most notably amid the wild expanse of dune and beach that makes up the National Park Zuid-Kennemerland National Park Zuid-Kennemerland; the park is easily reached by bus from Haarlem bus station. Amsterdam's own city beach is Blijburg Blijburg, a small stretch of sand on the IJsselmeer, a popular spot on warm summer days. The improvised beach bar Blijburg aan Zee Blijburg aan Zee has frequent live music and cheap food. To reach Blijburg, take tram #26 from Centraal Station and get off at the last stop. has frequent live music and cheap food. To reach Blijburg, take tram #26 from Centraal Station and get off at the last stop.

Sports and activities Bowling The closest bowling alley bowling alley to the city centre is to the city centre is Knijn Bowling Centre Knijn Bowling Centre, Scheldeplein 3, opposite the RAI complex (020/664 2211; MonThurs 10ammidnight, Fri 10am1am, Sat noon1am, Sun noon11pm; tram #4 or #25 from CS), with eighteen lanes and a cafe. Lanes cost between 20 and 26.50 per hour, with a maximum of six people per lane. Reservations recommended. Friday and Sat.u.r.day evenings have "twilight bowling" (11.50 per person), accompanied by a DJ.

Sports and activities Football It's a mark of the dominance of Amsterdam's Ajax Ajax, Eindhoven's PSV PSV and Rotterdam's and Rotterdam's Feyenoord Feyenoord that most foreigners would be hard pushed to name any other Dutch football team. More generally familiar, perhaps, is the Dutch style of play based on secure pa.s.sing with sudden, decisive breaks which has made Dutch players highly sought-after all over Europe. Not surprisingly, therefore, getting hold of tickets to watch Ajax play at their extravagant all-seater ArenA stadium in the Amsterdam suburbs takes a little time and effort. You can't buy a ticket without a Clubcard, and although these only cost 6 for two years, you must apply in advance (020/311 6666) and wait up to five weeks for your application to be processed. Having done all that, you can then buy your ticket (1550). Much easier for visitors from abroad is to book a package through that most foreigners would be hard pushed to name any other Dutch football team. More generally familiar, perhaps, is the Dutch style of play based on secure pa.s.sing with sudden, decisive breaks which has made Dutch players highly sought-after all over Europe. Not surprisingly, therefore, getting hold of tickets to watch Ajax play at their extravagant all-seater ArenA stadium in the Amsterdam suburbs takes a little time and effort. You can't buy a ticket without a Clubcard, and although these only cost 6 for two years, you must apply in advance (020/311 6666) and wait up to five weeks for your application to be processed. Having done all that, you can then buy your ticket (1550). Much easier for visitors from abroad is to book a package through Ajax Travel & Events Ajax Travel & Events (020/311 1940), which costs 80100 and includes a guided tour of the grounds, lunch or dinner and entry to a match, though you'll still need to book your trip well in advance. (020/311 1940), which costs 80100 and includes a guided tour of the grounds, lunch or dinner and entry to a match, though you'll still need to book your trip well in advance.

Buying tickets for Feyenoord and PSV, whose grounds are both within easy striking distance of Amsterdam by public transport, is similarly awkward; most games require a club card, and limited numbers of tickets are available for visitors from abroad, purchased only by prior application. The football season runs from September to May, and matches are generally on Sundays at 2.30pm, with occasional games at 8pm on Wednesdays. Your best bet is to catch a game on screen in a bar. Try the Globe Globe at Oudezijds Voorburgwal 3. at Oudezijds Voorburgwal 3.

Ajax Amsterdam Amsterdam ArenA, Bijlmer 020/311 4444, Amsterdam ArenA, Bijlmer 020/311 4444, www.ajax.nl. Metro Bijlmer.

Feyenoord Rotterdam Olympiaweg 50, Rotterdam 010/292 3888, Olympiaweg 50, Rotterdam 010/292 3888, www.feyenoord.nl. Trains from Amsterdam stop near the ground.

PSV Eindhoven Frederiklaan 10a, Eindhoven 040/250 5505, Frederiklaan 10a, Eindhoven 040/250 5505, www.psv.nl. Matches are played at the Philips Stadium, a 10min walk from Eindhoven train station.

Sports and activities Dance and gyms Dancestreet 1e Rozendwarsstraat 10 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/489 7676, 1e Rozendwarsstraat 10 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/489 7676, www.dancestreet.net. Dance and yoga centre offering a wide range of cla.s.ses, from belly-dancing to flamenco, and various forms of yoga, as well as Pilates. Dance cla.s.ses 1012, yoga 14.50. Ma.s.sage available. A cafe (10am9pm) overlooks the main studio.

Fitness & Health Garden Jodenbreestrat 158 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/320 3666, Jodenbreestrat 158 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/320 3666, www.healthgarden.nl. This health club mainly offers cla.s.ses (yoga, t'ai chi, Pilates and aerobics among others), as well as saunas, solarium and ma.s.sage. Cla.s.ses 9.50; sauna 11; cla.s.s & sauna 13. Mon, Wed & Fri 9am10.30pm, Tues & Thurs noon10.30pm, Sat & Sun 9am5.30pm.

Splash Looiersgracht 26 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/624 8404, Looiersgracht 26 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/624 8404, www.splashhealthclubs.nl. Very popular hi-tech fitness centre with sauna, tanning salon, Turkish bath and a range of daily aerobic cla.s.ses from 10 for non-members. Day pa.s.s 20; week pa.s.s also available. MonFri 7ammidnight, Sat & Sun 7am9pm.

Sports and activities Horseriding Amsterdamse Manege Nieuwe Kalfjeslaan, Amstelveen (Nieuw Zuid) 020/643 1342, Nieuwe Kalfjeslaan, Amstelveen (Nieuw Zuid) 020/643 1342, www.deamsterdamsemanege.nl. Superbly located in the Amsterdamse Bos, although unfortunately it's not possible to go for a ride unless you are a regular customer. You can however book a lesson; an hour costs 20 for adults and 16 for under-16s. MonThurs 8.30am11pm, Fri 8.30am10pm, Sat 8.30am6pm, Sun 8.30am5pm.

Hollandsche Manege Vondelstraat 140 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/618 0942, Vondelstraat 140 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/618 0942, www.dehollanschemanege.nl. Stables built in 1882 in neo-Renaissance style on the edge of the Vondelpark. You'll need your own boots, though hats can be rented. A one-hour lesson costs 22.50 for adults, 19.50 for 11- to 17-year-olds, and 17.50 for under-11s. Group lessons also available.

Sports and activities Ice skating One of the great events in Holland's sporting calendar, when it happens, is the Elfstedentocht Elfstedentocht, a race across eleven towns and 200km of frozen waterways in Friesland, in the north of the Netherlands. If you're around in January and the ice is good, you'll hear talk of little else, but it's been over ten years since the last big freeze allowed it to go ahead, so you'll have to be very lucky to catch the race.

However, whenever the city's ca.n.a.ls and waterways freeze over (which does not happen every winter by any means), local skaters skaters are spoiled for choice, with almost every stretch of water utilized, providing an exhilarating way to whizz round the city much more fun than a rink. Surprisingly, ca.n.a.l cruises continue even when the waterways are frozen over, with the boats crunching their way up and down the Prinsengracht, but they leave the Keizersgracht well alone, to be occupied by bundled-up Amsterdammers who take to the ice in droves. Most locals have their own skates, and buying a pair from a department store will set you back over 100. Your best option is to visit one of Amsterdam's ice rinks (see " are spoiled for choice, with almost every stretch of water utilized, providing an exhilarating way to whizz round the city much more fun than a rink. Surprisingly, ca.n.a.l cruises continue even when the waterways are frozen over, with the boats crunching their way up and down the Prinsengracht, but they leave the Keizersgracht well alone, to be occupied by bundled-up Amsterdammers who take to the ice in droves. Most locals have their own skates, and buying a pair from a department store will set you back over 100. Your best option is to visit one of Amsterdam's ice rinks (see "In-line skating"), which rent out their own skates.

However, if you're not a pro skater, the easiest and safest option is probably the Jaap Eden IJsbanen Jaap Eden IJsbanen, Radioweg 64 (outdoor rink Oct to mid-March: Mon, Thurs, Fri: 8am4pm & 911pm, Tues 9.20am4pm & 911pm, Wed 8am4pm, Sat noon4.30pm, Sun 10.30am5.30pm; indoor rink MonFri 13.45pm, Sat & Sun noon4pm; disco skating Sat 8.4011.30pm; 5.80; 020/694 9652, www.jaapeden.nl; tram #9 from CS), a large ice-skating complex to the east of the city centre, with an indoor and an outdoor rink. You can rent skates for 5.50 from Waterman Sport next door (020/694 9884), but only if you use them at Jaap Eden, and you're required to leave your pa.s.sport or driving licence as a deposit.

If you do decide to try skating on the ca.n.a.ls, take note of a few safety points safety points before you venture out onto the ice: before you venture out onto the ice: * If no one's on the ice, don't try skating locals have a better idea of its thickness.

* To gain confidence, start off on the smaller ponds in the Vondelpark.

* Be careful under bridges, where the ice takes longest to freeze.

* If the ice gives way and you find yourself underneath, head for the darkest spot you can see in the ice above that's the hole.

Sports and activities In-line skating If you're equipped with skates or a skateboard skates or a skateboard, head for the free public ramp ramp at the northeastern edge of the at the northeastern edge of the Museumplein Museumplein. For the more experienced skater there's also the free Friday Night Skate (www.fridaynightskate.nl), a twenty-kilometre tour around Amsterdam, which takes place weather permitting every week at 8.30pm, departing from the Filmmuseum in the Vondelpark. You can rent rent skates, gear and boards at De Vondeltuin at the Amstelveen entrance of the Vondelpark (summer only; 020/664 5091; 5 per hour); alternatively, buy your own pair at Rodolfo's skate shop (Sarphatistraat 59 020/622 5488). If you're renting to skate around town, take care not to get stuck in the tram tracks. skates, gear and boards at De Vondeltuin at the Amstelveen entrance of the Vondelpark (summer only; 020/664 5091; 5 per hour); alternatively, buy your own pair at Rodolfo's skate shop (Sarphatistraat 59 020/622 5488). If you're renting to skate around town, take care not to get stuck in the tram tracks.

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Skating in the Vondelpark Sports and activities Korfbal Korfbal is a home-grown sport, cobbled together from netball, basketball and volleyball, and played with mixed teams and a high basket. is a home-grown sport, cobbled together from netball, basketball and volleyball, and played with mixed teams and a high basket. Blauw Wit Blauw Wit ( (www.akcblauw-wit.nl) play at the Joos Banckersweg (020/616 0894; tram #12 from train station Amsterdam Sloterdijk), with matches usually held on Sundays from September to June.

Sports and activities Pool and carambole A number of bars and cafes across the city have pool pool tables, although you may have to go to a hall to play snooker. A popular local variation on billiards ( tables, although you may have to go to a hall to play snooker. A popular local variation on billiards (biljart) is carambole carambole, played on a table without pockets. You score by caroming caroming (rebounding) off the cue ball and the opponent's ball; the skill of some of the locals, often spinning the ball through impossible angles, is often unbelievable. You'll find tables dotted around the city in cafes, and you'll get plenty of advice on how to play if you so much as look at a ball. (rebounding) off the cue ball and the opponent's ball; the skill of some of the locals, often spinning the ball through impossible angles, is often unbelievable. You'll find tables dotted around the city in cafes, and you'll get plenty of advice on how to play if you so much as look at a ball.

Snooker and Pool Centre Van Ostadestraat 97 (Oud Zuid) 020/676 4059. Tram #25 from CS. The first, third and fourth floors comprise the pool centre, with 26 tables costing a flat rate of 8.50 per hour. The second floor is the snooker centre, which has seven tables and there's also one Van Ostadestraat 97 (Oud Zuid) 020/676 4059. Tram #25 from CS. The first, third and fourth floors comprise the pool centre, with 26 tables costing a flat rate of 8.50 per hour. The second floor is the snooker centre, which has seven tables and there's also one carambole carambole table, all charged at 8.50 per hour as well. Daily 2pm1am, Fri & Sat till 2am. table, all charged at 8.50 per hour as well. Daily 2pm1am, Fri & Sat till 2am.

Sports and activities Saunas and flotation Hammam Zaanstraat 88 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/681 4818, Zaanstraat 88 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/681 4818, www.hammamamsterdam.nl. Situated north of the Westerpark (walk through the underpa.s.s near the northeast entrance, and turn left), this Turkish bath is a wonderful social inst.i.tution for women only. Comprises hot and cold rooms and top-to-toe cleansing; treatments such as full-body scrub and ma.s.sage also available. Entry costs 17. TuesFri noon10pm, Sat & Sun noon8pm.

Koan Float Herengracht 321 (Grachtengordel west) 020/555 0333, Herengracht 321 (Grachtengordel west) 020/555 0333, www.koan-float.com. The place to come in Amsterdam to float in a large bath of warm water. Magnesium and sodium salt are added to aid muscular relaxation and provide buoyancy, and because the water is the same temperature as your body, the sensation is of floating freely. There are three individual soundproof floating cabins, each with its own shower; once you're inside, lights, music and clothing are optional. Advance reservations are essential. Prices start from 32.50 for 45min or 38.50 for an hour. The centre also offers ma.s.sage. Towels and bathrobes are provided. Daily 9.30am11pm.

Sauna Damrak Damrak 54 (Old Centre) 020/622 6012. Centrally located gay sauna, though women are also welcome at weekends. See " Damrak 54 (Old Centre) 020/622 6012. Centrally located gay sauna, though women are also welcome at weekends. See "Saunas".

Sauna Deco Herengracht 115 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 8215, Herengracht 115 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 8215, www.saunadeco.nl. Built in 1920, this is possibly Amsterdam's most stylish sauna and steam bath, with a magnificent Art Deco interior. Ma.s.sage available. Entry costs 19.50 (17 Mon, WedFri noon3pm); towels and bathrobes extra. No credit cards. Mon, WedSat noon11pm, Tues 311pm, Sun 17pm.

Sports and activities Swimming pools It's a good idea to call before setting out for any of the pools (zwembaden) listed below, since certain times are set aside for small children, family groups or cla.s.ses.

Flevoparkbad Insulindeweg 1002 (Amsterdam Oost) 020/692 5030. Tram #7 from Leidseplein or #14 from Dam Square. The best outdoor pool in the city; gets very busy on sunny days. May to early Sept daily 10am5.30pm, until 7pm on warm days. Admission 2.65. Insulindeweg 1002 (Amsterdam Oost) 020/692 5030. Tram #7 from Leidseplein or #14 from Dam Square. The best outdoor pool in the city; gets very busy on sunny days. May to early Sept daily 10am5.30pm, until 7pm on warm days. Admission 2.65.

Mirandabad De Mirandalaan 9 (Nieuw Zuid) 020/546 4444. Superbly equipped swimming centre (outdoor and indoor pools), with wave machine, whirlpools and slides. Admission 3.55. De Mirandalaan 9 (Nieuw Zuid) 020/546 4444. Superbly equipped swimming centre (outdoor and indoor pools), with wave machine, whirlpools and slides. Admission 3.55.

Zuiderbad Hobbemastraat 26 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/678 1390. Lovely old pool dating from the nineteenth century and refres.h.i.+ngly gimmick-free, though they do have a naturist hour on Sunday from 4.30 to 5.30pm. Pool opens weekdays 7am, Sat 8am, Sun 10am; phone for details, as hours vary according to age. Admission 3. Hobbemastraat 26 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/678 1390. Lovely old pool dating from the nineteenth century and refres.h.i.+ngly gimmick-free, though they do have a naturist hour on Sunday from 4.30 to 5.30pm. Pool opens weekdays 7am, Sat 8am, Sun 10am; phone for details, as hours vary according to age. Admission 3.

Sports and activities Tennis and squash Most outdoor tennis tennis courts are for members only, and those that aren't need to be reserved well in advance. Your best chance of getting a game at short notice is either at the open-air tennis courts in the Vondelpark, or at one of the following. courts are for members only, and those that aren't need to be reserved well in advance. Your best chance of getting a game at short notice is either at the open-air tennis courts in the Vondelpark, or at one of the following.

Frans Otten Stadion IJsbaanpad 43 (Nieuw Zuid) 020/662 8767, IJsbaanpad 43 (Nieuw Zuid) 020/662 8767, www.fransottenstadion.nl. Tram #6 from Leidseplein, #16 or #24 from CS. This complex has eight indoor and fifteen outdoor tennis courts, as well as 21 squash courts. Tennis courts 17.5027 per hour; squash courts 1622 per hour. Racket rental 3. Call ahead to reserve a court in the evening. MonFri 9ammidnight, Sat & Sun 9am8pm.

Squash City Ketelmakerstraat 6 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/626 7883, Ketelmakerstraat 6 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/626 7883, www.squashcity.nl. Situated west of Centraal Station, with thirteen squash courts at 9.9011.90 per member for 45min; members.h.i.+p costs 25 and also includes use of the sauna. Racket rental 2.50. Call ahead to reserve courts. MonThurs 7ammidnight, Fri 7am11.30pm, Sat & Sun 8.45am8pm.

Festivals and events Most of Amsterdam's festivals are music and arts events, supplemented by a sprinkling of religious celebrations, and, as you might expect, the majority take place in the summer. The Queen's Birthday (also referred to as Queen Queen's Day) at the end of April is the city's most touted and exciting annual event, with a large portion of the city given over to an impromptu flea market and lots of street parties. On a more cultural level, the Holland Festival Holland Festival art extravaganza, held throughout June, attracts a handful of big names. Check with art extravaganza, held throughout June, attracts a handful of big names. Check with the VVV the VVV for the latest details, and remember that many other interesting events, such as the Easter performance of Bach's for the latest details, and remember that many other interesting events, such as the Easter performance of Bach's St Matthew Pa.s.sion St Matthew Pa.s.sion in the Grote Kerk at Naarden and the North Sea Jazz Festival in Rotterdam ( in the Grote Kerk at Naarden and the North Sea Jazz Festival in Rotterdam (www.northseajazz.nl), are only a short train ride away. See "Opening hours and public holidays" for a list of public holidays public holidays.

Festivals and events January Chinese New Year Late Jan/early Feb depending on lunar calendar. Dragon dance and fireworks, held at Nieuwmarkt and along the Zeedijk. Late Jan/early Feb depending on lunar calendar. Dragon dance and fireworks, held at Nieuwmarkt and along the Zeedijk.

Festivals and events February Februaristaking (Commemoration of the February Strike) Feb 25 Feb 25 www.februaristaking.nl. Speeches and wreath-laying at the Dokwerker (Dockworker) statue on J.D. Meijerplein J.D. Meijerplein.

Festivals and events March Stille Omgang (Silent Procession) Sunday closest to March 15 Sunday closest to March 15 www.stille-omgang.nl. Procession by local Catholics commemorating the Miracle of Amsterdam (see "The Oude Kerk"), starting and finis.h.i.+ng at Spui and pa.s.sing through the Red Light District.

Festivals and events April Nationaal Museumweekend First or second weekend First or second weekend www.museumweekend.nl. Free or discounted entrance to most of the museums in the Netherlands. Contact the VVV for more information.

Koninginnedag (Queen's Day/the Queen's Birthday) April 30. This is one of the most popular dates in the Dutch diary, a street event April 30. This is one of the most popular dates in the Dutch diary, a street event par excellence par excellence, which seems to grow annually and is almost worth planning a visit around, despite claims that it has become too commercialized in recent years. Celebrations in honour of Queen Beatrix take place throughout the Netherlands, though festivities in Amsterdam tend to be somewhat wilder and larger in scale. Special club nights and parties are held both the night before and the night after; however, to gain entry you'll need to book in advance either at the club itself or at record stores. The next day sees the city's streets and ca.n.a.ls lined with people, most of whom are dressed in ridiculous costumes (not surprisingly, Queen's Day is one of the most flamboyant events on the gay calendar as well). Anything goes, especially if it's orange the Dutch national colour. A fair is held in Dam Square, and music blasts continuously from huge sound systems set up across most of the major squares. This is also the one day of the year when goods can be bought and sold tax-free to anyone on the streets, and numerous stalls are set up in front of people's houses.

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Queen's Day Festivals and events May Herdenkingsdag (Remembrance Day) May 4 May 4 www.4en5mei.nl. There's a wreath-laying ceremony and a two-minute silence at the National Monument in Dam Square, commemorating the Dutch dead of World War II, as well as a smaller event at the h.o.m.omonument in Westermarkt in honour of the country's gay soldiers who died in the conflict.

Bevrijdingsdag (Liberation Day) May 5 May 5 www.4en5mei.nl. The country celebrates the 1945 liberation from n.a.z.i occupation with bands, speeches and impromptu markets around the city.

National Windmill Day Second Sat.u.r.day. On this day over half the country's remaining windmills and watermills, indicated by blue flags, are opened to the public free of charge. Contact Vereniging De Hollandsche Molen (020/623 8703, Second Sat.u.r.day. On this day over half the country's remaining windmills and watermills, indicated by blue flags, are opened to the public free of charge. Contact Vereniging De Hollandsche Molen (020/623 8703, www.molens.nl) or the VVV the VVV for further details. for further details.

Art Amsterdam (former KunstRai) Second week (former KunstRai) Second week www.artamsterdam.nl. Metro Rai or tram #4. The city's annual mainstream contemporary arts fair, held in the RAI conference s.p.a.ce south of the centre, featuring works from over 120 galleries. Entry costs 20. A less commercial alternative is the Kunstvlaai (www.kunstvlaai.nl) at the Westergasfabriek the Westergasfabriek, usually held the week before or after Art Amsterdam.

Festivals and events June Open Garden Days Third weekend Third weekend www.opentuinendagen.nl. Three-day event which sees some thirty private gardens usually arranged around a particular theme open their gates to the public. Gardens are open 10am5pm and there's a ca.n.a.l boat to take you around. Tickets 15.

Amsterdam Roots Festival Third Sunday Third Sunday www.amsterdamroots.nl. Tram #3, #7 or #9 from CS. Free open-air concert in Oosterpark with stalls, workshops and a parade that opens a week-long world music and film festival, with over sixty acts performing in the Concertgebouw, Melkweg, Paradiso and Tropentheater.

Holland Festival Throughout June Throughout June www.hollandfestival.nl. The largest music, dance and drama event in the Netherlands, aimed at making the dramatic arts more accessible. Showcasing around forty productions, from theatre and dance to music and opera, at various venues around the city, it features a mix of established and new talent.

International Theatre School Festival Third or last week Third or last week www.itsfestival.nl. Ten-day programme of events showcasing aspiring actors, dancers, musicians and opera singers in theatres on Nes, off Dam Square, culminating in an award night with a prize presented to the most promising director.

Vondelpark Open-Air Theatre (Openluchttheater) JuneAug JuneAug www.openluchttheater.nl. Free theatre, dance and music performances throughout the summer, WedSun only, with anything from jazz and cla.s.sical concerts through to stand-up comedy.

Festivals and events July Julidans First half of July First half of July www.julidans.nl. Twelve-day festival dedicated to contemporary dance, hosting both renowned and up-and-coming ch.o.r.eographers. Held at numerous locations around the Leidseplein, with the Stadsschouwburg as its main focus.

Kwakoe Zomer Festival Weekends only throughout July and August Weekends only throughout July and August www.kwakoe.nl. Metro Bijlmer. A Surinamese and Antillian festival held in Bijlmerpark, close to the Amsterdam ArenA in the southeastern suburbs, featuring music, workshops, dance acts and stand-up comedy. In the middle of the festival there's a football compet.i.tion between several teams. Caribbean delicacies such as roti roti and Surinamese and Surinamese bakabana bakabana, baked banana with peanut sauce, are widely available from stalls around the festival site.