The Rough Guide To Amsterdam Part 4

Across the street, just off the square on Leidsekade, is one of the city's oddest buildings, the American Hotel American Hotel, whose monumental and slightly disconcerting rendering of Art Nouveau comes complete with angular turrets, chunky dormer windows and fancy brickwork. Completed in 1902, the present structure takes its name from its demolished predecessor, which was as the stylistic peccadillo of its architect, one W. Steinigeweg adorned with statues and murals of North American scenes. Inside the present hotel is the Cafe Americain Cafe Americain, once the fas.h.i.+onable haunt of Amsterdam's literati, but now a mainstream location for coffee and lunch. The Art Nouveau decor is still worth a peek an artful combination of stained gla.s.s, shallow arches and geometric patterned brickwork.

The Grachtengordel Grachtengordel south Grachtengordel south Leidsestraat and the Spiegelkwartier Northeast of Leidseplein is Leidsestraat Leidsestraat, one of Amsterdam's princ.i.p.al shopping streets, comprising a long, slender gauntlet of fast food, fas.h.i.+on and shoe shops of little distinction. That said, the department store Metz & Co Metz & Co, at the junction with Keizersgracht, occupies a good-looking stone building of 1891, its facade adorned by caryatids and topped by a distinctive corner dome. At the time of its construction, it was the tallest commercial building in the city one reason why the owners were able to entice Gerrit Rietveld Gerrit Rietveld (18881964), the leading architectural light of the artistic movement De Stijl, to add a rooftop gla.s.s and metal showroom in 1933. The showroom has survived and is now a (18881964), the leading architectural light of the artistic movement De Stijl, to add a rooftop gla.s.s and metal showroom in 1933. The showroom has survived and is now a cafe cafe offering a fine view over the city centre; perhaps surprisingly, Rietveld designed just one other building in Amsterdam offering a fine view over the city centre; perhaps surprisingly, Rietveld designed just one other building in Amsterdam the Van Gogh Museum the Van Gogh Museum.

One block east of Metz & Co is Nieuwe Spiegelstraat, an appealing mix of shops and boutiques, which extends south into Spiegelgracht to form the Spiegelkwartier Spiegelkwartier. The district is home to the pricey end of Amsterdam's antiques trade as well as De Appel De Appel, a lively centre for contemporary art with well-presented, temporary exhibitions, at Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 10 (times vary with exhibitions, but normally TuesSun 10am6pm; 4; www.deappel.nl).

The Grachtengordel Grachtengordel south Grachtengordel south De Gouden Bocht Nieuwe Spiegelstraat meets the elegant sweep of Herengracht near the west end of De Gouden Bocht De Gouden Bocht where the ca.n.a.l is overlooked by a long sequence of double-fronted mansions, some of the most opulent dwellings in the city. Most of the houses here were extensively remodelled in the late seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Characteristically, they have double stairways leading to the entrance, with small doors underneath (originally for servants' use), and large doors above; the majority are topped off with the ornamental cornices that were fas.h.i.+onable at the time. Cla.s.sical references are common, both in form pediments, columns and pilasters and decoration, from scrolls and vases through to geometric patterns inspired by ancient Greece. where the ca.n.a.l is overlooked by a long sequence of double-fronted mansions, some of the most opulent dwellings in the city. Most of the houses here were extensively remodelled in the late seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Characteristically, they have double stairways leading to the entrance, with small doors underneath (originally for servants' use), and large doors above; the majority are topped off with the ornamental cornices that were fas.h.i.+onable at the time. Cla.s.sical references are common, both in form pediments, columns and pilasters and decoration, from scrolls and vases through to geometric patterns inspired by ancient Greece.

One of the first buildings to look out for on the north side of the ca.n.a.l just across from (and to the west of) Nieuwe Spiegelstraat is Herengracht 475 Herengracht 475, an extravagant stone mansion decorated with allegorical figures and surmounted by a slender bal.u.s.trade. Typically, the original building was a much more modest affair, dating from the 1660s, but eighty years later the new owner took matters in hand to create the ornate facade of today. Just along the ca.n.a.l to the east, Herengracht 493 Herengracht 493 is similarly grand, though here the building is polished off with an extravagantly carved pediment. A couple of doors down, Herengracht 497 is, by comparison, rather restrained, but the interior has been turned into the idiosyncratic is similarly grand, though here the building is polished off with an extravagantly carved pediment. A couple of doors down, Herengracht 497 is, by comparison, rather restrained, but the interior has been turned into the idiosyncratic Kattenkabinet Kattenkabinet (Cat Cabinet; TuesFri 10am4pm, Sat & Sun 125pm; 5; (Cat Cabinet; TuesFri 10am4pm, Sat & Sun 125pm; 5; www.kattenkabinet.nl), a substantial collection of art and artefacts relating to cats. They were installed by a Dutch financier, whose cherished moggy, John Pierpont Morgan (named after the American financier), died in 1984; feline fanatics will be delighted by the exhibits.

A short distance away, Herengracht 507 Herengracht 507 is an especially handsome house, though not too grand, its Neocla.s.sical pilasters, pediment, mini-balcony and double-stairway nicely balanced by the slender windows. This was once the home of Jacob Boreel (163097), one-time mayor, whose attempt to impose a burial tax started a riot during which the mob ransacked his house. is an especially handsome house, though not too grand, its Neocla.s.sical pilasters, pediment, mini-balcony and double-stairway nicely balanced by the slender windows. This was once the home of Jacob Boreel (163097), one-time mayor, whose attempt to impose a burial tax started a riot during which the mob ransacked his house.

The Grachtengordel Grachtengordel south Grachtengordel south The Stadsarchief De Bazel Opposite Herengracht 507 Herengracht 507, stretching down Vijzelstraat as far as Keizersgracht, is one of Amsterdam's weirdest and most monumentally incongruous buildings you can't possibly miss its looming, geometrical brickwork. Now home to a conference centre and the Stadsarchief Stadsarchief, the state archives, it started out as the headquarters of a Dutch s.h.i.+pping company, the Nederlandsche Handelsmaatschappij Nederlandsche Handelsmaatschappij, before falling into the hands of the ABN-AMRO bank, which was itself swallowed by a consortium led by the Royal Bank of Scotland in 2007 just before the worldwide banking crisis. Dating to the 1920s, the building is commonly known as De Bazel De Bazel ( (www.debazelamsterdam.nl) after the architect Karel de Bazel (18691923), whose devotion to theosophy formed and framed his design. Founded in the late nineteenth century, theosophy theosophy combined metaphysics and religious philosophy, arguing that there was an over-arching spiritual order with reincarnation for all as an added bonus. Every facet of de Bazel's building reflects this desire or search for order and balance from the pink and yellow brickwork of the exterior (representing male and female respectively) to the repeated use of motifs drawn from the Middle East, the source of much of the cult's spiritual inspiration. At the heart of the building is the magnificent combined metaphysics and religious philosophy, arguing that there was an over-arching spiritual order with reincarnation for all as an added bonus. Every facet of de Bazel's building reflects this desire or search for order and balance from the pink and yellow brickwork of the exterior (representing male and female respectively) to the repeated use of motifs drawn from the Middle East, the source of much of the cult's spiritual inspiration. At the heart of the building is the magnificent Schatkamer Schatkamer (Treasury; TuesSat 10am5pm & Sun 11am5pm; free), a richly decorated, Art Deco extravagance that feels rather like a royal crypt. Exhibited here is an intriguing selection of photographs and doc.u.ments drawn from the city's archives anything from 1970s squatters occupying City Hall to hagiographic tracts on the virtues of the Dutch naval hero, Admiral de Ruyter and, perhaps best of the lot, photos of miscreants (or rather the poor and the desperate) drawn from police archives. The exhibits are changed regularly and in the bas.e.m.e.nt there's a small film studio showing doc.u.mentaries about the city, both past and present. (Treasury; TuesSat 10am5pm & Sun 11am5pm; free), a richly decorated, Art Deco extravagance that feels rather like a royal crypt. Exhibited here is an intriguing selection of photographs and doc.u.ments drawn from the city's archives anything from 1970s squatters occupying City Hall to hagiographic tracts on the virtues of the Dutch naval hero, Admiral de Ruyter and, perhaps best of the lot, photos of miscreants (or rather the poor and the desperate) drawn from police archives. The exhibits are changed regularly and in the bas.e.m.e.nt there's a small film studio showing doc.u.mentaries about the city, both past and present.

The Grachtengordel Grachtengordel south Grachtengordel south The Ta.s.senmuseum Hendrikje The delightful Ta.s.senmuseum Hendrikje Ta.s.senmuseum Hendrikje, Herengracht 573 (Purse & Bag Museum; daily 10am5pm; 6.50; www.ta.s.senmuseum.nl), holds a simply superb collection of handbags, pouches, wallets, bags and purses from medieval times onwards, exhibited on three floors of a sympathetically refurbished grand old mansion. The collection begins on the top floor with a curious miscellany of items from the sixteenth to the nineteenth centuries. Here you'll find examples of several types of bag that preceded the purse portefeuilles, chatelaines, frame-bags, reticules and stocking purses to name but five. The next floor down focuses on the twentieth century with several beautiful Art Nouveau handbags and a whole cabinet of 1950s specimens made of "hard plastic", an early form of perspex. Another display features handbags made from animals the eel, crocodile, python and lizard bags look attractive, as long as you don't pause to think about how they were made, but the armadillo bag is really rather gruesome. The final floor is given over to temporary displays with contemporary bags and purses the favourite theme. The museum also has a pleasant cafe.

Close by, the facades of Herengracht 508510 are worth close inspection: both have neck gables dating from the 1690s, and both sport sea G.o.ds straddling dolphins, while tritons half-men, half-fish trumpet through conch sh.e.l.ls to pacify the oceans.

The Grachtengordel Grachtengordel south Grachtengordel south The Museum Willet-Holthuysen The Museum Willet-Holthuysen Museum Willet-Holthuysen (MonFri 10am5pm, Sat & Sun 11am5pm; 6; (MonFri 10am5pm, Sat & Sun 11am5pm; 6; www.museumwilletholthuysen.nl), near the Amstel at Herengracht 605, is billed as "the only fully furnished patrician house open to the public", which just about sums it up. The house dates from 1685, but the interior was remodelled by successive members of the coal-trading Holthuysen family until the last of the line, Sandra Willet-Holthuysen, donated her home and its contents to the city in 1895.

[image]

The Museum Willet-Holthuysen The museum entrance entrance is through the old servants' door, leading into the bas.e.m.e.nt, which holds a small collection of is through the old servants' door, leading into the bas.e.m.e.nt, which holds a small collection of porcelain and earthenware porcelain and earthenware. Up above are the family rooms, most memorably the Blue Room Blue Room, which has been returned to its original, eighteenth-century Rococo splendour, a flashy and ornate style copied from France and held to be the epitome of refinement and good taste by local merchants. The Ballroom Ballroom, all creams and gilt, is similarly opulent and the Dining Room Dining Room is laid out for dinner as of 1805, complete with the family's original Meissen dinner set. is laid out for dinner as of 1805, complete with the family's original Meissen dinner set.

The top floor displays the fine and applied art collection a.s.sembled by Sandra's husband, Abraham Willet. There are Dutch ceramics, pewter and silverware as well as four finely carved ivory pieces depicting the elements, made in Germany in the eighteenth century. Among the paintings, look out for a landscape by Willem Maris (18441910) and a distinctly smug self-portrait of Abraham at the age of 28. The exhibits are regularly moved around, however, to make way for temporary exhibitions.

At the back of the house lie the formal gardens gardens, a neat pattern of miniature hedges graced by the occasional stone statue, and framed by the old coach house.

The Grachtengordel Grachtengordel south Grachtengordel south The Amstel and the Magere Brug Just east of Willet-Holthuysen, Herengracht comes to an abrupt halt beside the wide and windy River Amstel River Amstel, which was long the main trade route into the Dutch interior goods arriving by barge and boat were traded for the imported materials held in Amsterdam's many warehouses. To the left is the Blauwbrug (Blue Bridge) and the Old Jewish Quarter the Old Jewish Quarter, whilst in the opposite direction is the Magere Brug Magere Brug (Skinny Bridge), the most famous and arguably the cutest of the city's many swing bridges. Legend has it that the current bridge, which dates back to about 1670, replaced an even older and skinnier version, originally built by two sisters who lived on opposite sides of the river and were fed up with having to walk so far to see each other. (Skinny Bridge), the most famous and arguably the cutest of the city's many swing bridges. Legend has it that the current bridge, which dates back to about 1670, replaced an even older and skinnier version, originally built by two sisters who lived on opposite sides of the river and were fed up with having to walk so far to see each other.

South of the bridge are the Amstel sluizen Amstel sluizen, the river's locks. Every night, the munic.i.p.al water department closes these locks to begin the process of sluicing sluicing out the ca.n.a.ls. A huge pumping station on an island out to the east of the city then pumps fresh water from the IJsselmeer into the ca.n.a.l system; similar locks on the west side of the city are left open for the surplus to flow into the IJ and, from there, out to sea via the North Sea Ca.n.a.l. The city's ca.n.a.l water is thus refreshed every three nights though, what with three centuries of shopping trolleys, rusty bikes and general detritus, the water is only appealing as long as you're not actually in it. out the ca.n.a.ls. A huge pumping station on an island out to the east of the city then pumps fresh water from the IJsselmeer into the ca.n.a.l system; similar locks on the west side of the city are left open for the surplus to flow into the IJ and, from there, out to sea via the North Sea Ca.n.a.l. The city's ca.n.a.l water is thus refreshed every three nights though, what with three centuries of shopping trolleys, rusty bikes and general detritus, the water is only appealing as long as you're not actually in it.

The Grachtengordel Grachtengordel south Grachtengordel south Reguliersgracht and FOAM On the north side of Prinsengracht is the small open s.p.a.ce of the Amstelveld Amstelveld, popular for impromptu football games, with the squat, seventeenth-century Amstelkerk Amstelkerk, made of plain white wood, occupying one of its corners. It's here also that Prinsengracht intersects with Reguliersgracht Reguliersgracht, perhaps the prettiest of the three surviving radial ca.n.a.ls that cut across the Grachtengordel its dainty humpback bridges and green waters overlooked by charming seventeenth- and eighteenth-century ca.n.a.l houses.

One of the busiest attractions in this part of the city is FOAM FOAM, Keizersgracht 609 (Fotografiemuseum; SatWed 10am6pm, Thurs & Fri 10am9pm; 7.50; www.foam.nl), which offers an inventive programme of photographic exhibitions, many of which have a local (and very modish) theme. The work of local ad agencies has provided the source materials for several exhibitions and there's been international stuff, too for example, the American photographer Richard Avedon was featured in 2009.

The Grachtengordel Grachtengordel south Grachtengordel south The Museum Van Loon Across the ca.n.a.l from FOAM, the Museum Van Loon Museum Van Loon, at Keizersgracht 672 (WedMon 11am5pm; 6; www.museumvanloon.nl), boasts the grandest ca.n.a.l house interior open to the public in Amsterdam. The first tenant of the property, which was built in 1672, was the artist Ferdinand Bol, who married an exceedingly wealthy widow and promptly hung up his easel for the rest of his days. The last owners were the van Loons, co-founders of the East India Company and long one of the city's leading families, though they came something of a cropper at the end of World War II. In 1884 a member of the family, Hendrik, purchased this house for his son Willem, on the occasion of his marriage to Thora Egidius. Thora had friends and relatives in Germany and during the occupation she entertained them unwisely, considering that several of her guests were high-ranking n.a.z.i officials. After the war, allegations of collaboration besmirched Thora's reputation and an embarra.s.sed Queen Wilhelmina fired her as her dame du palais dame du palais, a position she had held since 1898; Thora died two months later.

The interior interior of the house has been returned to something akin to its eighteenth-century appearance, with wood panelling and fancy stuccowork, plus ancestral portraits of stern men and sober women in their be-ruffed Sunday best. Highlights include the ornate copper of the house has been returned to something akin to its eighteenth-century appearance, with wood panelling and fancy stuccowork, plus ancestral portraits of stern men and sober women in their be-ruffed Sunday best. Highlights include the ornate copper bal.u.s.trade bal.u.s.trade on the staircase, into which is worked the name "Van Hagen-Trip" (after the former owners of the house); the van Loons filled the s.p.a.ces between the letters with fresh iron curlicues to prevent their children falling through. The top-floor landing has several pleasant grisaille on the staircase, into which is worked the name "Van Hagen-Trip" (after the former owners of the house); the van Loons filled the s.p.a.ces between the letters with fresh iron curlicues to prevent their children falling through. The top-floor landing has several pleasant grisaille paintings paintings of cla.s.sical figures including Alexander the Great and Julius Caesar and one of the bedrooms, the "painted room", is decorated with a Romantic painting of Italy, depicting a coastal scene with overgrown cla.s.sical ruins and diligent peasants. Such artistic conceits were a favourite motif with Amsterdam's bourgeoisie from around 1750 to 1820. The oddest items are the of cla.s.sical figures including Alexander the Great and Julius Caesar and one of the bedrooms, the "painted room", is decorated with a Romantic painting of Italy, depicting a coastal scene with overgrown cla.s.sical ruins and diligent peasants. Such artistic conceits were a favourite motif with Amsterdam's bourgeoisie from around 1750 to 1820. The oddest items are the fake bedroom doors fake bedroom doors; the eighteenth-century owners were so keen to avoid any lack of symmetry that they camouflaged the real doors and created imitation, decorative replacements in the "correct" position instead. The other oddity is at the bottom of the garden, where the old coach house coach house has has trompe l'oeil trompe l'oeil windows; again, symmetry dictated that the building must have windows, but no self-respecting plutocrat wanted to be watched by his servants hence the illusion. windows; again, symmetry dictated that the building must have windows, but no self-respecting plutocrat wanted to be watched by his servants hence the illusion.

The Grachtengordel Grachtengordel south Grachtengordel south Thorbeckeplein, Rembrandtplein and Reguliersbreestraat Short and stumpy Thorbeckeplein Thorbeckeplein hosts an a.s.sortment of unexciting bars and restaurants, flanking a statue of hosts an a.s.sortment of unexciting bars and restaurants, flanking a statue of Rudolf Thorbecke Rudolf Thorbecke (17981872), a far-sighted liberal politician and three-times Dutch premier whose reforms served to democratize the country in the aftermath of the European-wide turmoil of 1848. (17981872), a far-sighted liberal politician and three-times Dutch premier whose reforms served to democratize the country in the aftermath of the European-wide turmoil of 1848.

Thorbeckeplein leads into Rembrandtplein Rembrandtplein, a dishevelled patch of greenery that was formerly Amsterdam's b.u.t.ter market. The square took its present name in 1876, and is today one of the city's nightlife centres, although its crowded restaurants and bars are firmly geared towards tourists. Rembrandt's statue statue stands in the middle, his back wisely turned against the square's worst excesses. Of the prodigious number of cafes and bars here, only the cafe of the stands in the middle, his back wisely turned against the square's worst excesses. Of the prodigious number of cafes and bars here, only the cafe of the Schiller Hotel Schiller Hotel at no. 26 stands out, with an original Art Deco interior lit by geometrical chandeliers and decorated with stained-gla.s.s windows. at no. 26 stands out, with an original Art Deco interior lit by geometrical chandeliers and decorated with stained-gla.s.s windows.

The crumbling alleys to the north of Rembrandtplein contain several of the city's raunchier gay bars, while Reguliersbreestraat Reguliersbreestraat is just supremely tacky. Nevertheless, tucked in among the slot-machine arcades, fast-food joints and s.e.x shops is the city's most extraordinary cinema the is just supremely tacky. Nevertheless, tucked in among the slot-machine arcades, fast-food joints and s.e.x shops is the city's most extraordinary cinema the Tuschinski Tuschinski, at Reguliersbreestraat 2628. Opened in 1921 by a Polish Jew, Abram Tuschinski, the cinema boasts a marvellously well-preserved Art Deco facade and interior, which features coloured marble and a wonderful carpet, handwoven in Marrakesh to an original design. Tuschinski himself died in Auschwitz in 1942. The network of alleys behind the cinema was once known as Duivelshoek Duivelshoek (Devil's Corner), and, although it's been tidied up and sanitized, enough backstreet seediness remains to make it a spot to be avoided late at night. (Devil's Corner), and, although it's been tidied up and sanitized, enough backstreet seediness remains to make it a spot to be avoided late at night.

The Grachtengordel Grachtengordel south Grachtengordel south The Munttoren and Bloemenmarkt Muntplein is overlooked by the st.u.r.dy, late-medieval is overlooked by the st.u.r.dy, late-medieval Munttoren Munttoren, originally part of the old city wall. Later, it was adopted as the munic.i.p.al mint hence its name a plain brick structure to which Hendrick de Keyser Hendrick de Keyser, in one of his last commissions, added a flashy spire spire in 1620. Metres away, on the southern bank of the Singel, lies the floating in 1620. Metres away, on the southern bank of the Singel, lies the floating Bloemenmarkt Bloemenmarkt (flower market; MonSat 8.30am5pm, though some stalls open on Sun), which is popular with locals and tourists alike. The market is one of the main suppliers of flowers to central Amsterdam, but its blooms and bulbs now share stall s.p.a.ce with souvenir clogs, garden gnomes and delftware. (flower market; MonSat 8.30am5pm, though some stalls open on Sun), which is popular with locals and tourists alike. The market is one of the main suppliers of flowers to central Amsterdam, but its blooms and bulbs now share stall s.p.a.ce with souvenir clogs, garden gnomes and delftware.

The Jordaan and Western docklands Lying to the west of the city centre, the Jordaan Jordaan (p.r.o.nounced "your-darn") is a likeable and easily explored area of slender ca.n.a.ls and narrow streets flanked by an agreeable mix of architectural styles, from modest modern terraces to handsome seventeenth-century ca.n.a.l houses. Traditionally the home of Amsterdam's working cla.s.s, with its boundaries clearly defined by the Prinsengracht to the east and the Lijnbaansgracht in the west, the Jordaan's character has been transformed in recent years by a middle-cla.s.s influx, and the district is now one of the city's most sought-after residential neighbourhoods. Before then, and indeed until the late 1970s, the Jordaan's inhabitants were primarily stevedores and factory workers, earning a crust among the docks, warehouses, factories and boat yards that extended beyond (p.r.o.nounced "your-darn") is a likeable and easily explored area of slender ca.n.a.ls and narrow streets flanked by an agreeable mix of architectural styles, from modest modern terraces to handsome seventeenth-century ca.n.a.l houses. Traditionally the home of Amsterdam's working cla.s.s, with its boundaries clearly defined by the Prinsengracht to the east and the Lijnbaansgracht in the west, the Jordaan's character has been transformed in recent years by a middle-cla.s.s influx, and the district is now one of the city's most sought-after residential neighbourhoods. Before then, and indeed until the late 1970s, the Jordaan's inhabitants were primarily stevedores and factory workers, earning a crust among the docks, warehouses, factories and boat yards that extended beyond Brouwersgracht Brouwersgracht, the Jordaan's northeastern boundary and nowadays one of Amsterdam's prettiest ca.n.a.ls. Specific sights are few and far between, but nonetheless it's still a pleasant area to wander around.

The pint-sized Scheepvaartsbuurt Scheepvaartsbuurt (s.h.i.+pping Quarter), part of the city's old industrial belt and now a mixed shopping and residential quarter, edges the Jordaan to the north, bisected by Haarlemmerstraat and its continuation Haarlemmerdijk. Just to the north lie the (s.h.i.+pping Quarter), part of the city's old industrial belt and now a mixed shopping and residential quarter, edges the Jordaan to the north, bisected by Haarlemmerstraat and its continuation Haarlemmerdijk. Just to the north lie the Western docklands Western docklands, or Westerdok, the oldest part of the sprawling complex of artificial islands that today sweeps along the south side of the River IJ, containing many of the city's maritime facilities. This patch of land was dredged out of the river to provide extra warehousing and dock s.p.a.ce in the seventeenth century. The maritime bustle has pretty much disappeared here, but after a long period of neglect the area is rapidly finding new life as a chichi residential quarter, with smart apartments installed in its warehouses and its clutch of elegant ca.n.a.l houses revamped and reinvigorated, especially on Zandhoek Zandhoek. Finally, the working-cla.s.s neighbourhood to the west of the Westerkanaal, which marks the limit of the Western docklands, is of interest for the Het Schip Het Schip complex, a wonderful example of the Amsterdam School of Architecture and, perhaps more importantly, an example of social housing at its most optimistic. complex, a wonderful example of the Amsterdam School of Architecture and, perhaps more importantly, an example of social housing at its most optimistic.

[image]

The Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan In all probability the Jordaan Jordaan takes its name from the French word takes its name from the French word jardin jardin ("garden"), since the area's earliest settlers were Protestant Huguenots, who fled here to escape persecution in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Another possibility is that it's a corruption of the Dutch word for Jews, ("garden"), since the area's earliest settlers were Protestant Huguenots, who fled here to escape persecution in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Another possibility is that it's a corruption of the Dutch word for Jews, joden joden, who also sought refuge here. Whatever the truth, the Jordaan developed from open country hence the number of streets and ca.n.a.ls named after flowers and plants into a refugee enclave, a teeming, cosmopolitan quarter beyond the pale of bourgeois respectability. Indeed, when the city fathers planned the expansion of the city in 1610, they made sure the Jordaan was kept outside the city boundaries. Consequently, the area was not subject to the rigorous planning restrictions of the main grachten grachten Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht and its lattice of narrow streets followed the lines of the original polder drainage ditches, rather than any munic.i.p.al plan. This gives the district its distinctive, mazy layout, and much of its present appeal. Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht and its lattice of narrow streets followed the lines of the original polder drainage ditches, rather than any munic.i.p.al plan. This gives the district its distinctive, mazy layout, and much of its present appeal.

By the late nineteenth century, the Jordaan had become one of Amsterdam's toughest neighbourhoods, a stronghold of the city's industrial working cla.s.s working cla.s.s, mostly crowded together in cramped and unsanitary housing. Unsurprisingly, it was a highly politicized area, where protests against poor conditions were frequent, often coordinated by an influential and well-organized Communist Party. In the postwar period the slums were either cleared or renovated, but rocketing property prices in the wealthier parts of the city pushed middle-cla.s.s professionals into the Jordaan from the early 1980s. This process of gentrification was at first much resented, but today the area is home to many young and affluent "alternative" Amsterdammers, who rub shoulders more or less affably with working-cla.s.s Jordaaners with long-standing local roots.

The Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan The Jordaan Leidsegracht and Elandsgracht The southern boundary of the Jordaan is generally deemed to be the Leidsegracht Leidsegracht, though this is open to debate; according to dyed-in-the-wool locals the true Jordaaner is born within earshot of the Westerkerk bells, and you'd be hard-pushed to hear the chimes this far south. The narrow streets and ca.n.a.ls just to the north of the Leidsegracht are routinely modern, but Elandsgracht Elandsgracht does hold, at no. 109, the enjoyable indoor does hold, at no. 109, the enjoyable indoor De Looier antiques market De Looier antiques market (daily 11am5pm; closed Fri), which is good for picking up mainly Dutch bygones, including tiles and ceramics, with a few stalls dealing in specialist wares such as silver trinkets or delftware. There are a couple of cafes inside too, and on Elandsgracht itself you might pause to look at the statues of (daily 11am5pm; closed Fri), which is good for picking up mainly Dutch bygones, including tiles and ceramics, with a few stalls dealing in specialist wares such as silver trinkets or delftware. There are a couple of cafes inside too, and on Elandsgracht itself you might pause to look at the statues of Johnny Jordaan Johnny Jordaan and and Tante Leen Tante Leen, accompanied by musicians two twentieth-century singers who were for years the sound of the working-cla.s.s Jordaan, and whose songs are still remembered and sung in some of the more raucous cafes in the area. Football fanatics will also want to take a peek at the sports shop at Elandsgracht 96, where Johan Cruyff Johan Cruyff star of Ajax in the 1970s and one of the greatest players of all time bought his first pair of football boots. star of Ajax in the 1970s and one of the greatest players of all time bought his first pair of football boots.

[image]

De Looier antiques market The Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan The Jordaan Leidsegracht and Elandsgracht Leidsegracht and Elandsgracht The Jordaan's hofjes The Jordaan's hofjesOne feature of the Jordaan's varied architectural pleasures is its hofjes hofjes almshouses built around a central courtyard and originally occupied by the city's elderly and needy. There were and are almshouses built around a central courtyard and originally occupied by the city's elderly and needy. There were and are hofjes hofjes all over the city (most famously all over the city (most famously the Begijnhof the Begijnhof), but there's a real concentration here in the Jordaan. Most date back to the seventeenth or eighteenth centuries, but the majority have been rebuilt or at least overhauled and all are still lived in, often by those people they were originally built for. The Jordaan's most diverting hofje hofjes are the Karthuizerhofje Karthuizerhofje, on Karthuizersstraat (see "Westerstraat"), and the Suyckerhofje Suyckerhofje on on Lindengracht Lindengracht.

The Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan The Jordaan Lijnbaansgracht and Rozengracht The narrow Lijnbaansgracht Lijnbaansgracht (Ropewalk Ca.n.a.l) threads its way round most of the city centre, and in between Elandsgracht and Rozenstraat its lapping waters are flanked by cobbled, leafy streets lined with old brick buildings. On (Ropewalk Ca.n.a.l) threads its way round most of the city centre, and in between Elandsgracht and Rozenstraat its lapping waters are flanked by cobbled, leafy streets lined with old brick buildings. On Rozenstraat Rozenstraat itself, at no. 59, is an annex of the itself, at no. 59, is an annex of the Stedelijk Museum Stedelijk Museum, the Stedelijk Museum Bureau Stedelijk Museum Bureau (TuesSun 11am5pm; free; (TuesSun 11am5pm; free; www.smba.nl), which provides s.p.a.ce for up-and-coming Amsterdam artists, with small-scale exhibitions, installations and occasional lectures and readings.

One block further north, Rozengracht Rozengracht lost its ca.n.a.l years ago and is now a busy and somewhat unattractive main road, though it was here at lost its ca.n.a.l years ago and is now a busy and somewhat unattractive main road, though it was here at no. 184 no. 184 that that Rembrandt Rembrandt spent the last ten years of his life a scrolled plaque set high into the wall distinguishes his old home. Rembrandt's last years were scarred by the death of his partner Hendrickje in 1663 and his son t.i.tus five years later, but nevertheless it was in this period that he produced some of his finest work. Also dated to these years is spent the last ten years of his life a scrolled plaque set high into the wall distinguishes his old home. Rembrandt's last years were scarred by the death of his partner Hendrickje in 1663 and his son t.i.tus five years later, but nevertheless it was in this period that he produced some of his finest work. Also dated to these years is The Jewish Bride The Jewish Bride, a touchingly warm and heartfelt portrait of a bride and her husband, completed in 1668 and now in the Rijksmuseum the Rijksmuseum. From Rozengracht, it's the shortest of walks to the Westerkerk and the Anne Frank Huis.

The Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan The Jordaan Bloemgracht The streets and ca.n.a.ls extending north from Rozengracht to Westerstraat form the heart of the Jordaan and provide the district's prettiest moments. Beyond Rozengracht, the first ca.n.a.l is the Bloemgracht Bloemgracht (Flower Ca.n.a.l), a leafy waterway dotted with houseboats and traversed by d.i.n.ky little bridges, its network of cross-streets sprinkled with cafes, bars and quirky shops. There's a warm, relaxed community atmosphere here which is really rather beguiling, not to mention a clutch of fine old ca.n.a.l houses. Pride of architectural place goes to (Flower Ca.n.a.l), a leafy waterway dotted with houseboats and traversed by d.i.n.ky little bridges, its network of cross-streets sprinkled with cafes, bars and quirky shops. There's a warm, relaxed community atmosphere here which is really rather beguiling, not to mention a clutch of fine old ca.n.a.l houses. Pride of architectural place goes to nos. 8791 nos. 8791, a sterling Renaissance building of 1642 complete with mullion windows, three crowstep gables, brightly painted shutters and distinctive facade stones, representing a steeman steeman (city-dweller), a (city-dweller), a landman landman (farmer) and a (farmer) and a seeman seeman (sailor). (sailor). Nos. 8385 Nos. 8385 next door were built a few decades later two immaculately maintained ca.n.a.l houses adorned by the bottleneck gables typical of the period. next door were built a few decades later two immaculately maintained ca.n.a.l houses adorned by the bottleneck gables typical of the period.

The Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan The Jordaan Egelantiersgracht On picturesque Egelantiersgracht Egelantiersgracht (Rose-Hip Ca.n.a.l) at no. 12 is ' (Rose-Hip Ca.n.a.l) at no. 12 is 't Smalle, one of Amsterdam's oldest cafes, opened in 1786 as a proeflokaal proeflokaal a tasting house for the (long-gone) gin distillery next door. In the eighteenth century, when quality control was erratic to say the least, each batch of a tasting house for the (long-gone) gin distillery next door. In the eighteenth century, when quality control was erratic to say the least, each batch of jenever jenever (Dutch gin) could turn out very differently, so customers insisted on a taster before they splashed out. As a result, each distillery ran a (Dutch gin) could turn out very differently, so customers insisted on a taster before they splashed out. As a result, each distillery ran a proeflokaal proeflokaal offering free samples, and this is a rare survivor. The cafe's waterside terrace remains an especially pleasant and popular spot to take a tipple (see " offering free samples, and this is a rare survivor. The cafe's waterside terrace remains an especially pleasant and popular spot to take a tipple (see "De Zotte Proeflokaal").

Right on the corner of Egelantiersgracht, the Amsterdam Tulip Museum Tulip Museum (daily 10am6pm; 3) is truly more of a shop than a museum, and sells all sorts of flower-related items in its upstairs shop. But it does sell bulbs too, and the downstairs exhibition s.p.a.ce gives a brief but moderately interesting introduction to this very Dutch phenomenon, with lots of detail on the speculative bubble in tulip prices during the Golden Age. (daily 10am6pm; 3) is truly more of a shop than a museum, and sells all sorts of flower-related items in its upstairs shop. But it does sell bulbs too, and the downstairs exhibition s.p.a.ce gives a brief but moderately interesting introduction to this very Dutch phenomenon, with lots of detail on the speculative bubble in tulip prices during the Golden Age.

The Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan The Jordaan Westerstraat A narrow cross-street 1e Egelantiersdwarsstraat and its continuation 1e Tuindwarsstraat and 1e Anjeliersdwarsstraat runs north from Egelantiersgracht Egelantiersgracht to workaday to workaday Westerstraat Westerstraat, a busy thoroughfare, which is home to the small but charming Pianola Museum Pianola Museum (Sun 25pm; 5; (Sun 25pm; 5; www.pianola.nl), at no. 106, whose collection of pianolas and automatic music-machines dates from the beginning of the twentieth century. Fifteen have been restored to working order, and there are usually one or two playing throughout the afternoon, which are a delight to watch. These machines, which work on rolls of perforated paper, were the jukeboxes of their day, and the museum has a vast archive of over 15,000 rolls of music, some of which were "recorded" by famous pianists and composers Gershwin, Debussy, Scott Joplin, Art Tatum and others. The museum runs a programme of pianola music concerts throughout the year (except July/Aug), where the rolls are played back on restored machines (exact times are listed on their website). Nearby, hidden behind a white doorway, is the largest of the Jordaan's hofjes hofjes(see "The Jordaan"), the Karthuizerhofje Karthuizerhofje, Karthuizersstraat 89171, a substantial courtyard complex established as a widows' hospice in the middle of the seventeenth century, though the present buildings are much more recent. With its picket-fenced gardens and old ornate waterpumps, it makes an appealing, peaceful diversion.

[image]

Bloemgracht The Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan The Jordaan The Noorderkerk At the east end of Westerstraat, overlooking the Prinsengracht, is Hendrick de Keyser's Noorderkerk Noorderkerk (Mon, Thurs & Sat 11am1pm; free), the architect's last creation and probably his least successful, finished two years after his death in 1623. A bulky, overbearing brick building, it represented a radical departure from the conventional church designs of the time, having a symmetrical Greek cross floor plan, with four equally proportioned arms radiating out from a steepled centre. Uncompromisingly dour, it proclaimed the serious intent of the Calvinists who wors.h.i.+pped here in so far as the pulpit and therefore the preacher was at the centre and not at the front of the church, a symbolic break with the Catholic past. Nevertheless, it's still hard to understand quite how de Keyser, who designed such elegant structures as the Westerkerk, could have ended up creating this. (Mon, Thurs & Sat 11am1pm; free), the architect's last creation and probably his least successful, finished two years after his death in 1623. A bulky, overbearing brick building, it represented a radical departure from the conventional church designs of the time, having a symmetrical Greek cross floor plan, with four equally proportioned arms radiating out from a steepled centre. Uncompromisingly dour, it proclaimed the serious intent of the Calvinists who wors.h.i.+pped here in so far as the pulpit and therefore the preacher was at the centre and not at the front of the church, a symbolic break with the Catholic past. Nevertheless, it's still hard to understand quite how de Keyser, who designed such elegant structures as the Westerkerk, could have ended up creating this.

The Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan The Jordaan The Noordermarkt The Noordermarkt Noordermarkt, the somewhat unimpressive square outside the church, contains a statue statue of three figures bound to each other, a poignant tribute to the b.l.o.o.d.y Jordaanoproer riot of 1934, part of a successful campaign to stop the government cutting unemployment benefits during the Depression; you'll find the statue just in front of the church's west door. The inscription reads "The strongest chains are those of unity". The church also boasts a of three figures bound to each other, a poignant tribute to the b.l.o.o.d.y Jordaanoproer riot of 1934, part of a successful campaign to stop the government cutting unemployment benefits during the Depression; you'll find the statue just in front of the church's west door. The inscription reads "The strongest chains are those of unity". The church also boasts a plaque plaque honouring those Communists and Jews who were rounded up here by the Germans in February 1941. The square hosts two of Amsterdam's best open-air honouring those Communists and Jews who were rounded up here by the Germans in February 1941. The square hosts two of Amsterdam's best open-air markets markets. There's a general household goods and flea market on Mondays (9am1pm), plus a popular Sat.u.r.day farmers' market, the Boerenmarkt Boerenmarkt (9am4pm), a lively affair with organic fruit and vegetables, freshly baked breads and a plethora of oils and spices for sale. Cross an unmarked border, though, and you'll find yourself in the middle of a bird market, which operates on an adjacent patch at much the same time, and, if you're at all squeamish, is best avoided the brightly coloured birds squeezed into tiny cages are not for everyone. Incidentally, the bustling (9am4pm), a lively affair with organic fruit and vegetables, freshly baked breads and a plethora of oils and spices for sale. Cross an unmarked border, though, and you'll find yourself in the middle of a bird market, which operates on an adjacent patch at much the same time, and, if you're at all squeamish, is best avoided the brightly coloured birds squeezed into tiny cages are not for everyone. Incidentally, the bustling Lunchcafe Winkel Lunchcafe Winkel, beside the Noordermarkt at the corner with Westerstraat, sells huge wedges of home-made apple pie apple pie, which many Jordaaners swear is the best in town.

The Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan The Jordaan Lindengracht Just to the north of the Noorderkerk, the Lindengracht Lindengracht ("Ca.n.a.l of Limes") lost its waterway decades ago, and is a fairly nondescript thoroughfare, though home to the ("Ca.n.a.l of Limes") lost its waterway decades ago, and is a fairly nondescript thoroughfare, though home to the Suyckerhofje Suyckerhofje of 1667 easy to miss through a small gateway at no. 94, and with a lovely enclosed garden that is a typical example of the Jordaan's many of 1667 easy to miss through a small gateway at no. 94, and with a lovely enclosed garden that is a typical example of the Jordaan's many hofjes hofjes. Lindengracht has also played a prominent role in local folklore since the day in 1886 when a policeman made an ill-advised attempt to stop an eel-pulling contest. Horrible as it sounds, eel-pulling eel-pulling was a popular pastime hereabouts: a live eel, preferably smeared in soap to make the entertainment last a little longer, was suspended from a rope strung across a ca.n.a.l. Teams took to their boats and tried to pull the poor creature off the rope, the fun being to see who would end up in the water; the winner came away with the eel or at least a good piece of it. In 1886 the crowd unceremoniously bundled the policeman away, but when reinforcements arrived, the whole thing got out of hand and there was a full-scale was a popular pastime hereabouts: a live eel, preferably smeared in soap to make the entertainment last a little longer, was suspended from a rope strung across a ca.n.a.l. Teams took to their boats and tried to pull the poor creature off the rope, the fun being to see who would end up in the water; the winner came away with the eel or at least a good piece of it. In 1886 the crowd unceremoniously bundled the policeman away, but when reinforcements arrived, the whole thing got out of hand and there was a full-scale riot riot the Paling-Oproer ("Eel Uprising") which lasted for three days and cost 26 lives. the Paling-Oproer ("Eel Uprising") which lasted for three days and cost 26 lives.

The Jordaan and Western docklands The Jordaan The Jordaan Brouwersgracht The east end of the Lindengracht intersects with Brouwersgracht Brouwersgracht, which marks the northerly limit of both the Jordaan and the Grachtengordel the Grachtengordel. In the seventeenth century, Brouwersgracht lay at the edge of Amsterdam's great harbour, one of the major arteries linking the open sea with the city centre. Thronged by vessels returning from or heading off to every corner of the globe, it was lined with storage depots and warehouses. Breweries flourished here too hence its name capitalizing on their ready access to s.h.i.+pments of fresh water. Today, the harbour bustle has moved way out of the centre to the northwest, and the warehouses warehouses, with their distinctive spout-neck gables and shuttered windows, have been converted into some of the most expensive apartments in the city. There's an especially fine uninterrupted row of these warehouses at Brouwersgracht 172212 Brouwersgracht 172212, across the ca.n.a.l from the Lindengracht. You'll also find some handsome merchants' houses on the Brouwersgracht, as well as moored houseboats and a string of quaint little swing bridges, making it altogether one of the most cla.s.sically picturesque ca.n.a.ls in the whole of the city and a pleasant area for a stroll.

[image]

Brouwersgracht The Jordaan and Western docklands The Scheepvaartsbuurt and the Western docklands The Scheepvaartsbuurt Scheepvaartsbuurt the s.h.i.+pping Quarter is an una.s.suming neighbourhood which focuses on the s.h.i.+pping Quarter is an una.s.suming neighbourhood which focuses on Haarlemmerstraat Haarlemmerstraat and its continuation and its continuation Haarlemmerdijk Haarlemmerdijk, a long, rather ordinary thoroughfare lined with cafes and food shops, which once bustled with stevedores and working s.h.i.+ps bound to and from Haarlem. In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, this district boomed thanks to its location between Brouwersgracht and the Western docklands Western docklands, a narrow parcel of land dredged out of the River IJ immediately to the north and equipped with docks, warehouses and s.h.i.+pyards. The construction of these artificial islands took the pressure off Amsterdam's congested maritime facilities and was necessary to sustain the city's economic success. Stretching from the Western to the Eastern docklands, these riverside wharves functioned as Amsterdam's heartbeat until the city's s.h.i.+pping facilities began to move away from the centre, a process accelerated by the construction of Centraal Station, slap in the middle of the old quayside in the 1880s. The Western docklands hung on to some of the marine trade until the 1960s, but today bar the odd small boatyard industry has to all intents and purposes disappeared and the area is busy reinventing itself. There is still a vague air of faded grittiness here, but the old, forgotten warehouses within walking distance of the centre are rapidly being turned into bijou studios, and dozens of plant-filled houseboats are moored alongside the narrow streets.

The Jordaan and Western docklands The Scheepvaartsbuurt and the Western docklands The Scheepvaartsbuurt and the Western docklands Haarlemmerdijk Before World War II the Haarlemmerstraat Haarlemmerstraat and its westerly extension, and its westerly extension, Haarlemmerdijk Haarlemmerdijk, were congested thoroughfares, but the trams that once ran here were rerouted and this is now a pleasant if unremarkable pedestrianized strip with bars, shops and cafes. The only architectural high point is the meticulously restored Art Deco interior of The Movies The Moviescinema, near the west end of the street at Haarlemmerdijk 161. Just metres away, the busy Haarlemmerplein traffic junction sports the grandiose Neocla.s.sical gateway, Haarlemmerpoort Haarlemmerpoort, built on the site of a medieval entrance to the city in 1840 for the new king William II's triumphal entry into the city. The euphoria didn't last long. William was a distinguished general who had been wounded at Waterloo, but as a king he proved much too crusty and reactionary to be popular, only agreeing to mild liberal reforms after extensive rioting in Amsterdam and elsewhere.

The Jordaan and Western docklands The Scheepvaartsbuurt and the Western docklands The Scheepvaartsbuurt and the Western docklands The Western docklands To visit the Western docklands, proceed north from the near (east) side of the Haarlemmerpoort. Walk through the tunnel beneath the railway lines and then turn right along Sloterdijkstraat, which soon crosses the ca.n.a.l over onto Galgenstraat Galgenstraat (Gallows St), once the site of the munic.i.p.al gallows which were made clearly visible to pa.s.sing s.h.i.+ps to discourage potential law-breakers. Galgenstraat bisects the smallest of the Western docklands islands, diminutive (Gallows St), once the site of the munic.i.p.al gallows which were made clearly visible to pa.s.sing s.h.i.+ps to discourage potential law-breakers. Galgenstraat bisects the smallest of the Western docklands islands, diminutive Prinseneiland Prinseneiland, a pleasing mix of houseboats, former warehouses and old ca.n.a.l houses, guarded by a pair of dainty little bridges.

Continue straight along Galgenstraat, over the next ca.n.a.l, and then turn north up Grote Bickersstraat for the bridge over to another Western docklands island, Realeneiland Realeneiland, whose houseboats, ex-warehouses and mini-boatyards give it a distinctly nautical flavour. On the island, tiny, waterside Zandhoek Zandhoek once offered an uninterrupted view over the harbour and was long a favourite with the city's sea captains, who constructed a clutch of fine old ca.n.a.l houses along here in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. A number of them have survived and several are decorated with distinctive facade stones, including once offered an uninterrupted view over the harbour and was long a favourite with the city's sea captains, who constructed a clutch of fine old ca.n.a.l houses along here in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. A number of them have survived and several are decorated with distinctive facade stones, including De Gouden Reael De Gouden Reael, at no. 14, whose stone sports a gold coin. Before Napoleon introduced a system of house numbers, these stones were the princ.i.p.al way for visitors to distinguish one house from another, and many homeowners went to considerable lengths to make theirs unique. Jacob Real, the Catholic tradesman who owned this particular house, also used the image of a real real a Spanish coin to discreetly advertise his sympathies for the Catholic Habsburgs. The building now houses a very good a Spanish coin to discreetly advertise his sympathies for the Catholic Habsburgs. The building now houses a very good cafe-restaurant cafe-restaurant.

At the top of Zandhoek, cross over the ca.n.a.l and then turn left along Zoutkeetsgracht; another left turn, this time onto Planciusstraat, returns you to the pedestrian tunnel near the Haarlemmerpoort.

[image]

The Jordaan and Western docklands The Scheepvaartsbuurt and the Western docklands The Scheepvaartsbuurt and the Western docklands The Westerpark and Westergasfabriek Beyond the Haarlemmerpoort, off to the right, the Westerpark Westerpark is a small park running alongside a narrow sliver of ca.n.a.l with a small lake and some formally planted areas. At its far end, the is a small park running alongside a narrow sliver of ca.n.a.l with a small lake and some formally planted areas. At its far end, the Westergasfabriek Westergasfabriek is a complex of red-brick nineteenth-century buildings that was formerly a gasworks, then a venue for acid house raves in the 1990s, and has since been renovated and is finding its feet as an arts and entertainment complex. There are a number of arts and media related businesses here, several galleries, a cinema and a number of places to eat and drink, as well as the is a complex of red-brick nineteenth-century buildings that was formerly a gasworks, then a venue for acid house raves in the 1990s, and has since been renovated and is finding its feet as an arts and entertainment complex. There are a number of arts and media related businesses here, several galleries, a cinema and a number of places to eat and drink, as well as the Huis van Aristoteles Huis van Aristoteles a giant play area for kids (see " a giant play area for kids (see "Parks and farms"). You can get in from the park but the Westergasfabriek's main entrance is on Haarlemmerweg.

The Jordaan and Western docklands The Scheepvaartsbuurt and the Western docklands The Scheepvaartsbuurt and the Western docklands Het Schip On the north side of the park, before you reach the Westergasfabriek, a pedestrian tunnel leads under the railway lines to Zaanstraat Zaanstraat, the southern edge of a working-cla.s.s neighbourhood that stretches north to the busy Spaarndammer Dijk boulevard. Taken as a whole, this part of the city is really rather glum, but hang a left on Zaanstraat and you soon reach Spaarndammerplantsoen, the site of Het Schip Het Schip, a munic.i.p.al housing block which is a splendid and pristine example of the Expressionistic Amsterdam School of architecture. Seven years in the making, from 1913 to 1920, the complex takes its name from its s.h.i.+p-like shape and is graced by all manner of fetching decorative details from the intriguing mix-and-match windows to the wavy brick facades and ornamental sculptures of which the bulging "cigar" turret is its most self-indulgent. The architect responsible was Michael de Klerk Michael de Klerk (18841923), who also designed the two other housing blocks on Spaarndammerplantsoen, though Het Schip is easily the most striking. De Klerk reacted strongly against the influence of Berlage, whose style exemplified by the Beurs favoured clean lines and functionality, opting instead for much more playful motifs. (18841923), who also designed the two other housing blocks on Spaarndammerplantsoen, though Het Schip is easily the most striking. De Klerk reacted strongly against the influence of Berlage, whose style exemplified by the Beurs favoured clean lines and functionality, opting instead for much more playful motifs.

De Klerk installed a post office in Het Schip and the interior, with its superb multicoloured tiling, has been restored and now serves as the small Museum Het Schip Museum Het Schip (WedSun 15pm; 5; (WedSun 15pm; 5; www.hetschip.nl; bus #22 from Centraal Station). Through the use of multimedia, short films and leaflets, the museum looks at the living conditions of the city's proletariat at the start of the twentieth century, in relation to the history of the Amsterdam School. The museum sells a pamphlet for self-guided tours explaining the architectural highlights of the complex, still used as social housing today. Half-hour guided tours (on request; 2.50) take you inside one of the restored residences and up to the turret, which serves no purpose other than being an aesthetic touch by de Klerk. Politically motivated, de Klerk and his architectural allies were eager to provide high-quality homes for the working cla.s.s, though their laudable aims were often undermined or at least diluted by a tendency to overelaborate. For details of de Klerk's other major commission in Amsterdam, the De Dageraad housing project, see the section "De Dageraad". Across the road from the museum, the pleasant Lunchroom Het Schip Lunchroom Het Schip serves tasty light meals and often gets packed with tour groups. serves tasty light meals and often gets packed with tour groups.

The Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands Once one of the mars.h.i.+est parts of Amsterdam, the narrow slab of land between the curve of the River Amstel, Oudeschans and Nieuwe Herengracht was the home of Amsterdam Amsterdam's Jews from the sixteenth century up until World War II. By the 1920s, this Old Jewish Quarter, aka the from the sixteenth century up until World War II. By the 1920s, this Old Jewish Quarter, aka the Jodenhoek Jodenhoek ("Jews' Corner"), had become one of the busiest parts of town, crowded with tenement buildings and smoking factories, its main streets holding scores of open-air stalls, selling everything from pickled herrings to pots and pans. Sadly, the war put paid to all this and in 1945 the district lay derelict and postwar redevelopment has not treated it kindly either. Its focal point, ("Jews' Corner"), had become one of the busiest parts of town, crowded with tenement buildings and smoking factories, its main streets holding scores of open-air stalls, selling everything from pickled herrings to pots and pans. Sadly, the war put paid to all this and in 1945 the district lay derelict and postwar redevelopment has not treated it kindly either. Its focal point, Waterlooplein Waterlooplein, has been overwhelmed by a domineering town and concert hall, the Stadhuis en Muziektheater, which caused much controversy at the time of its construction, and the once-bustling Jodenbreestraat is now bleak and very ordinary, with Mr Visserplein Mr Visserplein, at its east end, little more than a busy traffic junction.

Picking your way round these obstacles is not much fun, but persevere among all the cars and concrete are several moving reminders of the Jewish community that perished in World War II, most memorably the late seventeenth-century Esnoga Esnoga (Portuguese synagogue), one of the city's finest buildings. Close by, four other synagogues have been merged into the fascinating (Portuguese synagogue), one of the city's finest buildings. Close by, four other synagogues have been merged into the fascinating Joods Historisch Museum Joods Historisch Museum (Jewish Historical Museum), celebrating Jewish culture and custom. There's a Rembrandt connection here too: in 1639 the artist moved into a house on the Jodenbreestraat and this has been restored as the (Jewish Historical Museum), celebrating Jewish culture and custom. There's a Rembrandt connection here too: in 1639 the artist moved into a house on the Jodenbreestraat and this has been restored as the Rembrandthuis Rembrandthuis, which, in addition to several period rooms, has a fine collection of the great man's etchings and features temporary displays on him and his contemporaries. From the Rembrandthuis, it's a brief stroll south to Hermitage Amsterdam Hermitage Amsterdam, an art gallery used for lavish temporary exhibitions of fine and applied art on loan from the Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg.

Immediately to the east of the Old Jewish Quarter lies the Plantagebuurt Plantagebuurt, a well-heeled residential area that's home to the city's botanical gardens, the Hortus Botanicus Hortus Botanicus, as well as the Artis Zoo Artis Zoo and the excellent and the excellent Verzetsmuseum Verzetsmuseum (Dutch Resistance Museum). (Dutch Resistance Museum).

Moving on from the Plantagebuurt, it's a short hop north to the reclaimed islands of the Oosterdok Oosterdok, dredged out of the River IJ to accommodate warehouses and docks in the seventeenth century. The Oosterdok is one part of the Eastern docklands, a vast maritime complex which once spread right along the River IJ to link with the Western docklands the Western docklands. Industrial decline set in during the 1880s, but the a.s.sorted artificial islands of the eastern docklands often lumped together as Zeeburg are currently being redefined as a residential and leisure district, featuring some startling modern architecture and several award-winning buildings.

[image]

The Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands The Old Jewish Quarter Throughout the nineteenth century and up until the German occupation, the Old Jewish Quarter Old Jewish Quarter the Jodenhoek was a hive of activity, its main streets lined with shops and jam-packed with open-air stalls, where Jews and Gentiles traded in earnest. Fatefully, it was also surrounded by ca.n.a.ls and it was these the Germans exploited to create the the Jodenhoek was a hive of activity, its main streets lined with shops and jam-packed with open-air stalls, where Jews and Gentiles traded in earnest. Fatefully, it was also surrounded by ca.n.a.ls and it was these the Germans exploited to create the ghetto ghetto that foreshadowed their policy of starvation and deportation. They restricted movement in and out of the quarter by raising most of the swing bridges (over the Nieuwe Herengracht, the Amstel and the Oudeschans) and imposing stringent controls on every other access route. The Jews, readily identifiable by the yellow Stars of David they were obliged to wear from May 1942, were not allowed to use public transport, ride bicycles or own telephones, and were placed under a rigorously imposed curfew. Meanwhile, roundups and deportations had begun shortly after the Germans arrived, and continued into 1945. By the end of the war, the Jodenhoek was deserted, and as the need for wood and raw materials intensified in the cold winter that followed, many of the houses were dismantled for fuel. that foreshadowed their policy of starvation and deportation. They restricted movement in and out of the quarter by raising most of the swing bridges (over the Nieuwe Herengracht, the Amstel and the Oudeschans) and imposing stringent controls on every other access route. The Jews, readily identifiable by the yellow Stars of David they were obliged to wear from May 1942, were not allowed to use public transport, ride bicycles or own telephones, and were placed under a rigorously imposed curfew. Meanwhile, roundups and deportations had begun shortly after the Germans arrived, and continued into 1945. By the end of the war, the Jodenhoek was deserted, and as the need for wood and raw materials intensified in the cold winter that followed, many of the houses were dismantled for fuel.

The Jodenhoek remained a neglected corner of the city well into the 1970s, when the battered remnants took another hit with the large-scale demolition that preceded the construction of the metro beneath Waterlooplein. By these means, the prewar Jodenhoek disappeared almost without trace, the notable exception being the imposing Esnoga Esnoga and the four connected synagogues of the Ashken.a.z.i Jews, now the and the four connected synagogues of the Ashken.a.z.i Jews, now the Joods Historisch Museum Joods Historisch Museum. The district's oth