In The Hands Of A Chef Part 18

1. Trim the sinew and silver skin from the venison steaks. Refrigerate the tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs for use in the sauce. To make the marinade, mix the pepper, shallots, thyme, and sage with cup of vegetable oil in a bowl or plastic container. Add the venison steaks and marinate, covered, for 12 hours in the refrigerator, turning occasionally. Trim the sinew and silver skin from the venison steaks. Refrigerate the tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs for use in the sauce. To make the marinade, mix the pepper, shallots, thyme, and sage with cup of vegetable oil in a bowl or plastic container. Add the venison steaks and marinate, covered, for 12 hours in the refrigerator, turning occasionally.

2. To make the sauce, heat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Add the reserved venison tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs and brown them all over. Lower the heat to medium-high, add the shallots, and cook, tossing occasionally, until golden brown and tender, about 3 minutes. Do not let them burn; lower the heat further if necessary. To make the sauce, heat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Add the reserved venison tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs and brown them all over. Lower the heat to medium-high, add the shallots, and cook, tossing occasionally, until golden brown and tender, about 3 minutes. Do not let them burn; lower the heat further if necessary.

3. Add the thyme, juniper berries, sage, and sherry. Bring to a boil and cook until the liquid reduces by half, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and reduce to cup, about 30 minutes. Strain and return to the saute pan. Add the thyme, juniper berries, sage, and sherry. Bring to a boil and cook until the liquid reduces by half, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and reduce to cup, about 30 minutes. Strain and return to the saute pan.

4. Add the sherry vinegar to the sauce and heat over medium heat until hot. Remove from the heat and whisk in the b.u.t.ter. Season with salt and pepper. Keep warm. Add the sherry vinegar to the sauce and heat over medium heat until hot. Remove from the heat and whisk in the b.u.t.ter. Season with salt and pepper. Keep warm.

5. Warm the chutney in a small saucepan. While it heats, remove the venison from the marinade. Do not pat the venison dry-you want to leave as much of the marinade on it as possible. Season the meat on both sides with salt. Warm the chutney in a small saucepan. While it heats, remove the venison from the marinade. Do not pat the venison dry-you want to leave as much of the marinade on it as possible. Season the meat on both sides with salt.

6. Heat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Sear the venison for 5 minutes on both sides for rare. With its low fat content, venison tends to dry out and become tough if cooked to more than medium-rare. To cook the meat more than that, lower the heat to medium and cook to the desired doneness. Heat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Sear the venison for 5 minutes on both sides for rare. With its low fat content, venison tends to dry out and become tough if cooked to more than medium-rare. To cook the meat more than that, lower the heat to medium and cook to the desired doneness.

7. To serve, slice the venison steaks To serve, slice the venison steaks inch thick across the grain. Arrange the slices on warm plates. Drizzle with sauce. Place a spoonful of the chutney, if serving, on one side of each plate. Offer the remaining sauce and chutney on the side. inch thick across the grain. Arrange the slices on warm plates. Drizzle with sauce. Place a spoonful of the chutney, if serving, on one side of each plate. Offer the remaining sauce and chutney on the side.

Dried Fruit Chutney Chutney was a staple in my childhood. We lived in England during my father's sabbaticals, and during our first extended trip, when I was in elementary school, I discovered that we had left the land of ketchup for the kingdom of chutney. I smeared chutney on everything, including Cornish pasties. This particular recipe results in a rich, heavy condiment with concentrated sweetsour flavors of dried fruit, sherry, and vinegar. It's a good match for venison, duck, and other dark meats, or strong cheeses like traditional farmhouse Cheddar. my childhood. We lived in England during my father's sabbaticals, and during our first extended trip, when I was in elementary school, I discovered that we had left the land of ketchup for the kingdom of chutney. I smeared chutney on everything, including Cornish pasties. This particular recipe results in a rich, heavy condiment with concentrated sweetsour flavors of dried fruit, sherry, and vinegar. It's a good match for venison, duck, and other dark meats, or strong cheeses like traditional farmhouse Cheddar.

MAKES 2 CUPS.

1 small onion (about 4 ounces), cut into -inch dice cup white wine vinegar cup sugar 2 bay leaves 1 cinnamon stick 2 star anise teaspoon hot red pepper flakes cup dried cranberries cup golden raisins cup dried apricots cup dried figs, preferably Turkish, cut in half cup prunes 1 cup sweet sherry Combine the onion, vinegar, sugar, bay leaves, cinnamon stick, star anise, and red pepper flakes in a nonreactive medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 1 minute. Add the fruit and sherry. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. The chutney will keep for 2 weeks if refrigerated. Keep tightly covered so it doesn't absorb odors from other food in the refrigerator.

A Mile in a Chef's Shoes This is the near-and-dear-to-my-heart chapter. It returns to the question that opens this book-what am I about as a cook? If I had to boil down all of my cooking philosophy and experience to a handful of recipes, they would be the ones that appear in the following pages. They are, not surprisingly, also my most-requested recipes, whether from guests at Rialto or friends at our home. It returns to the question that opens this book-what am I about as a cook? If I had to boil down all of my cooking philosophy and experience to a handful of recipes, they would be the ones that appear in the following pages. They are, not surprisingly, also my most-requested recipes, whether from guests at Rialto or friends at our home.

Some items, like Soupe de Poisson or Roasted Marinated Long Island Duck with Green Olive and Balsamic Vinegar Sauce, fall into the category of signature dishes. For a young chef, a signature dish can seem like a curse. Just at the time in your career when you're bursting to demonstrate to the world that you're the sharpest knife in town, here comes the roast duck with green olives that everyone demands you put back on the menu, again and again and.... Do they love me only for my duck? Do they love me only for my duck? Later in your career, your perspective changes. Signature dishes are like familiar furniture; you learn to build a menu around them, and if somebody comes to your restaurant specifically because they depend on finding a dish that they've come to think of as "the duck we eat on our anniversary," you feel grateful, not hemmed in. The other type of recipe found here might be called home-front favorites, food that I a.s.sociate with family traditions (Roast Christmas Goose) or that continues to provoke enthusiasm among our guests at home (Squash Blossoms Stuffed with Herbed Cheese in Fritter Batter). Later in your career, your perspective changes. Signature dishes are like familiar furniture; you learn to build a menu around them, and if somebody comes to your restaurant specifically because they depend on finding a dish that they've come to think of as "the duck we eat on our anniversary," you feel grateful, not hemmed in. The other type of recipe found here might be called home-front favorites, food that I a.s.sociate with family traditions (Roast Christmas Goose) or that continues to provoke enthusiasm among our guests at home (Squash Blossoms Stuffed with Herbed Cheese in Fritter Batter).

All of this food is doable in a home kitchen-I know, because these are the recipes that I've given to friends most often. What these dishes demand of you is generally a little extra time, for a lot of extra satisfaction. But I also hope this chapter gives you the experience of walking in the shoes of the chef that life has made me. What is it about duck, about salt cod, about squash blossoms that makes them so satisfying to me? To be honest, I'm not really sure I know the answer, but I can give you a taste of my experience, my perspective. Cook this food.

Salt Cod, Artichoke, and Celery Root Fritters Deep-frying was considered distasteful in my house while I was growing up. Not only was it unhealthy, but worse-it smelled. That the lingering aroma might be of something delicious was of no account. The silver lining to this experience is a thrilling sense of breaking a taboo every time I take out the vegetable oil and deep-fry thermometer. As a technique, it's something I apply in moderation, but I resort to it often when preparing hors d'oeuvres or garnishes, anything that comes in small bites or portions. my house while I was growing up. Not only was it unhealthy, but worse-it smelled. That the lingering aroma might be of something delicious was of no account. The silver lining to this experience is a thrilling sense of breaking a taboo every time I take out the vegetable oil and deep-fry thermometer. As a technique, it's something I apply in moderation, but I resort to it often when preparing hors d'oeuvres or garnishes, anything that comes in small bites or portions.

Salt cod fritters are one of my favorite munchies. In this recipe, I've paired the cod with artichokes (another traditional combination) and added celery root for crunch and an almost applelike flavor. These are fabulous with a really spicy bottled hot sauce-Inner Beauty is a good choice-on the side.

MAKES 20 TO 25 FRITTERS.

pound center-cut salt cod (the thickest part of the fillet) 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour cup cornstarch 2 extra-large egg whites 1 cup cold beer 6 baby artichokes, trimmed (see page 85) and rubbed with lemon juice, or 6 frozen artichoke hearts (frozen artichoke hearts are often already cut in half-if so, use 12 halves), thawed Kosher salt 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 4 cups vegetable oil for deep-frying 1 small celery root (about 1 pound), peeled, sliced paper-thin, and cut into fine julienne cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves Freshly ground black pepper 2 lemons, cut crosswise in half, then each half cut into quarters DO AHEAD: Soak the salt cod for 12 hours in a large bowl of cold water, changing the water 3 or 4 times. When finished, the cod should be moist and should Soak the salt cod for 12 hours in a large bowl of cold water, changing the water 3 or 4 times. When finished, the cod should be moist and should not not be be completely completely salt-free, or it will have lost its distinctive flavor. It should taste about as salty as fish that you've seasoned and cooked with salt. salt-free, or it will have lost its distinctive flavor. It should taste about as salty as fish that you've seasoned and cooked with salt.

1. Drain and rinse the cod, then put it into a medium pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the fish is cooked through, about 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the liquid. Drain and rinse the cod, then put it into a medium pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the fish is cooked through, about 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the liquid.

2. After it is cool, drain the cod and pat dry with paper towels, then remove any skin, bones, or cartilage. Break the fish into 1-inch pieces. After it is cool, drain the cod and pat dry with paper towels, then remove any skin, bones, or cartilage. Break the fish into 1-inch pieces.

3. Meanwhile, to make the batter, mix the flour with the cornstarch in a medium bowl. Beat the egg whites with the beer in a separate bowl, then stir this into the dry ingredients until just mixed. If you overheat the batter, the fritter coating will be tough. Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes (it can rest, chilled, up to 2 hours). Meanwhile, to make the batter, mix the flour with the cornstarch in a medium bowl. Beat the egg whites with the beer in a separate bowl, then stir this into the dry ingredients until just mixed. If you overheat the batter, the fritter coating will be tough. Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes (it can rest, chilled, up to 2 hours).

4. If using fresh artichokes, put them in a nonreactive pot large enough to hold them in a single layer. Add cold water to cover by 1 inch. Season with salt, and place a small plate over the artichokes to keep them submerged. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the artichokes are tender, about 20 minutes. Drain, cut lengthwise into quarters, and toss with the lemon juice. If using frozen artichoke hearts, cut lengthwise into quarters and toss with the lemon juice. If using fresh artichokes, put them in a nonreactive pot large enough to hold them in a single layer. Add cold water to cover by 1 inch. Season with salt, and place a small plate over the artichokes to keep them submerged. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the artichokes are tender, about 20 minutes. Drain, cut lengthwise into quarters, and toss with the lemon juice. If using frozen artichoke hearts, cut lengthwise into quarters and toss with the lemon juice.

5. Preheat the oven to 200F. Line a sheet pan with paper towels and put it in the oven. Preheat the oven to 200F. Line a sheet pan with paper towels and put it in the oven.

6. Heat the oil in a deep pot to 350F. Use a deep-fry thermometer to check the temperature. Heat the oil in a deep pot to 350F. Use a deep-fry thermometer to check the temperature.

7. Toss the salt cod with the artichokes, celery root, and parsley leaves; season with salt and pepper, and stir everything into the batter. Scoop out a couple of tablespoons of batter in a single dollop and carefully lower it into the oil. Add 2 more dollops of the mixture to the oil. The fritters will bob to the surface. Don't worry if the mixture spreads out a little bit, but try to keep the fritters separate. When they are golden brown on one side, 1 to 3 minutes, depending on how thick they are, flip the fritters and cook on the second side, another 1 to 3 minutes. As they finish cooking, transfer them to the sheet pan in the oven. Repeat until all the mixture is used. Transfer to a warm platter, sprinkle with salt, garnish with the lemon wedges, and serve. Toss the salt cod with the artichokes, celery root, and parsley leaves; season with salt and pepper, and stir everything into the batter. Scoop out a couple of tablespoons of batter in a single dollop and carefully lower it into the oil. Add 2 more dollops of the mixture to the oil. The fritters will bob to the surface. Don't worry if the mixture spreads out a little bit, but try to keep the fritters separate. When they are golden brown on one side, 1 to 3 minutes, depending on how thick they are, flip the fritters and cook on the second side, another 1 to 3 minutes. As they finish cooking, transfer them to the sheet pan in the oven. Repeat until all the mixture is used. Transfer to a warm platter, sprinkle with salt, garnish with the lemon wedges, and serve.

Roasted Potatoes Stuffed with Wild Mushrooms and Truffled Eggs The idea for this dish arrived in a dream, hokey as that sounds. I awoke one morning and there it was, a gift, fully formed and a.s.sembled in my head out of fragments of other things I love, like a poem cobbled out of phrases whose connection had eluded you until a moment of insight. The common denominator in this dish is things-that-go-well-with-truffles-in-the-Piedmont: mushrooms, eggs, potatoes, and cheese. But I'd never seen all of them brought together, and certainly not in the form of a hollowed-out roasted potato filled with the other ingredients. Since it's the only recipe, before or since, to come to me via whatever culinary inspiration clanks away in dreams, I don't mind admitting its origins. It's now one of my few signature dishes, and one of the most popular items we've ever served at Rialto. arrived in a dream, hokey as that sounds. I awoke one morning and there it was, a gift, fully formed and a.s.sembled in my head out of fragments of other things I love, like a poem cobbled out of phrases whose connection had eluded you until a moment of insight. The common denominator in this dish is things-that-go-well-with-truffles-in-the-Piedmont: mushrooms, eggs, potatoes, and cheese. But I'd never seen all of them brought together, and certainly not in the form of a hollowed-out roasted potato filled with the other ingredients. Since it's the only recipe, before or since, to come to me via whatever culinary inspiration clanks away in dreams, I don't mind admitting its origins. It's now one of my few signature dishes, and one of the most popular items we've ever served at Rialto.

If you're fortunate enough to have a fresh white truffle, this dish is the perfect medium for a few aromatic shavings on top, either just before serving or at the table. It's actually quite easy to double the recipe and serve everyone two potatoes as an entree, especially if you accompany it with Fiery Garlicky Greens (page 91). If anyone politely protests that he can only eat one, there will surely be a volunteer ready to step into the breach and eat three.

MAKES 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS.

4 medium baking potatoes (preferably short and fat, about pound each), scrubbed 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar 1 teaspoon vegetable oil 4 extra-large eggs ounce dried porcini, reconst.i.tuted in warm water (see page 271) and coa.r.s.ely chopped (soaking liquid saved) cup warm water 1 teaspoon unsalted b.u.t.ter recipe Wild Mushroom Frica.s.see (page 101), made without the chicken stock 6 tablespoons creme fraiche 4 teaspoons minced chives cup freshly grated Parmesan 2 tablespoons truffle oil (optional) 1. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

2. Trim both ends of the potatoes so they will stand upright. Rub the potatoes with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Stand the potatoes upright on a sheet pan. Roast until tender-a thin-bladed knife should easily penetrate the flesh-about 1 hour. Remove from the oven and let cool briefly. Leave the oven on. Trim both ends of the potatoes so they will stand upright. Rub the potatoes with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Stand the potatoes upright on a sheet pan. Roast until tender-a thin-bladed knife should easily penetrate the flesh-about 1 hour. Remove from the oven and let cool briefly. Leave the oven on.

3. Meanwhile, bring a deep skillet or medium pot of water to a boil. Add the vinegar and season with salt. Lower the heat to a simmer. Rub a small baking dish or deep plate with the vegetable oil. Crack an egg into a teacup. Tilt the cup and slowly lower it into the simmering water. When the egg is covered with water, tip the cup and release the egg. Repeat with the other 3 eggs. Poach the eggs until the whites are set, 2 to 3 minutes. Scoop out with a slotted spoon and transfer to the oiled dish. Set aside. Meanwhile, bring a deep skillet or medium pot of water to a boil. Add the vinegar and season with salt. Lower the heat to a simmer. Rub a small baking dish or deep plate with the vegetable oil. Crack an egg into a teacup. Tilt the cup and slowly lower it into the simmering water. When the egg is covered with water, tip the cup and release the egg. Repeat with the other 3 eggs. Poach the eggs until the whites are set, 2 to 3 minutes. Scoop out with a slotted spoon and transfer to the oiled dish. Set aside.

4. Heat the b.u.t.ter in a small saute pan. As soon as it stops foaming, add the porcini, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the porcini soaking liquid to the pan and cook until it reduces by half. Transfer the porcini, with their reduced juices, to a bowl with the mushroom frica.s.see and mix well. Heat the b.u.t.ter in a small saute pan. As soon as it stops foaming, add the porcini, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the porcini soaking liquid to the pan and cook until it reduces by half. Transfer the porcini, with their reduced juices, to a bowl with the mushroom frica.s.see and mix well.

5. Mix the creme fraiche and chives together. Season with salt and pepper. Mix the creme fraiche and chives together. Season with salt and pepper.

6. When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, use a grapefruit spoon or melon bailer to scoop out the centers, leaving inch at the sides and When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, use a grapefruit spoon or melon bailer to scoop out the centers, leaving inch at the sides and inch at the bottom. Return them to the sheet pan. Season the insides with salt and pepper. Sprinkle 1 teaspoons of the Parmesan into the bottom of each potato, followed by 2 tablespoons of the warm mushroom mixture, and then the remaining Parmesan. Top each with an egg and season with salt and pepper. inch at the bottom. Return them to the sheet pan. Season the insides with salt and pepper. Sprinkle 1 teaspoons of the Parmesan into the bottom of each potato, followed by 2 tablespoons of the warm mushroom mixture, and then the remaining Parmesan. Top each with an egg and season with salt and pepper.

7. Return to the oven until the potatoes, mushroom filling, and eggs are warm, about 5 minutes. Transfer to warm plates, and top with the chive creme fraiche. Drizzle with the truffle oil, if using, and serve immediately. Return to the oven until the potatoes, mushroom filling, and eggs are warm, about 5 minutes. Transfer to warm plates, and top with the chive creme fraiche. Drizzle with the truffle oil, if using, and serve immediately.

Soupe de Poisson For first-time diners, the experience of soupe de poisson can be a little tough to grasp. The feel of the soup in your mouth is slightly grainy, with a light body and no visible pieces of fish. The flavor is unexpectedly intense, concentrated, almost smoky-and then it's served with a spicy mayonnaise and grated Gruyere. How to make sense of all this? of soupe de poisson can be a little tough to grasp. The feel of the soup in your mouth is slightly grainy, with a light body and no visible pieces of fish. The flavor is unexpectedly intense, concentrated, almost smoky-and then it's served with a spicy mayonnaise and grated Gruyere. How to make sense of all this?

Soupe de Poisson is a rustic dish, created by fishermen from the tiny unwanted fish left at the bottom of the net. Too small to be easily gutted and boned, they were traditionally cooked whole in the soup, pounded in a mortar and pestle-bones, guts, and all-then strained. After straining, all that remained was the flavorful liquid, with a fine residue of ground fish, the mark of properly made soup. It is also one of a handful of recipes friends and clients asked me to put in this book, threatening to boycott me if I didn't.

This isn't a daunting recipe, but it does take time and involves a couple of steps that don't often take place in most American kitchens, like roasting and pureeing fish bones. This is also not a recipe that tolerates shortcuts in technique or ingredients. A few things to bear in mind: [image] Saffron, Pernod, and orange are essential flavorings. Omitting any of them will dramatically change the final product. Saffron, Pernod, and orange are essential flavorings. Omitting any of them will dramatically change the final product.[image] Similarly, the deep base flavor of the soup comes from caramelizing the vegetables and bones. Make sure the bones and vegetables are cooked until browned. Similarly, the deep base flavor of the soup comes from caramelizing the vegetables and bones. Make sure the bones and vegetables are cooked until browned.[image] The traditional French method of making this soup uses a food mill, but unless you're working on developing your shoulder and arm muscles, I suggest a food processor. A punched metal strainer, known as a China cap-like an applesauce strainer, not a lightweight mesh one-is also necessary. The traditional French method of making this soup uses a food mill, but unless you're working on developing your shoulder and arm muscles, I suggest a food processor. A punched metal strainer, known as a China cap-like an applesauce strainer, not a lightweight mesh one-is also necessary.[image] You need an implement with which to pound the cooked fish bones and lobster bodies in the China cap. We use a rolling pin with blunt ends, but the wooden kitchen tool used for mas.h.i.+ng apples into applesauce works as well. You need an implement with which to pound the cooked fish bones and lobster bodies in the China cap. We use a rolling pin with blunt ends, but the wooden kitchen tool used for mas.h.i.+ng apples into applesauce works as well.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS.

SOUP.

2 pounds fish bones, including the heads, from white-fleshed fish, such as cod, halibut, haddock, or flounder 1 pound inexpensive white fish pieces, such as cod bellies, perch, or pollack 2 pounds lobster bodies (the body-where the legs attach-should be rinsed clean of tomalley and any loose viscera; discard the carapace, the outer sh.e.l.l) cup extra virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, skin on (for color), coa.r.s.ely chopped 1 leek, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, thinly sliced crosswise, and swirled vigorously in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit 1 celery stalk, thinly sliced 1 small fennel bulb, trimmed of stalks and tough outer layers, cut in half lengthwise, cored, and thinly sliced crosswise 1 small carrot, thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, cut in half Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 cup dry white wine 2 cups chopped fresh tomatoes or high-quality canned tomatoes 2 oranges, peel and pith removed, cut into chunks, plus juice from an additional orange if necessary cup Pernod, or more to taste 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 6 sprigs flat-leaf parsley 3 bay leaves 2 teaspoons paprika, preferably Spanish 2 large pinches of saffron GARNISH.

cup extra virgin olive oil 1 baguette French bread, sliced into 18 to 24 slices inch thick, toasted 1 cup Rouille (page 13) 1 cup grated Gruyere DO AHEAD: The soup will keep for 4 to 5 days refrigerated, so there's no problem if you want to make it a day or two ahead. Make the rouille, the spicy garlic mayonnaise garnish, the day of serving. The soup will keep for 4 to 5 days refrigerated, so there's no problem if you want to make it a day or two ahead. Make the rouille, the spicy garlic mayonnaise garnish, the day of serving.

1. Using kitchen shears, remove the eyeb.a.l.l.s and gills from the fish heads. Put the bones and heads (not the fish or lobster bodies) in a large pot and rinse under cold running water for at least 30 minutes. Drain. Using kitchen shears, remove the eyeb.a.l.l.s and gills from the fish heads. Put the bones and heads (not the fish or lobster bodies) in a large pot and rinse under cold running water for at least 30 minutes. Drain.

2. Preheat the oven to 450F. Preheat the oven to 450F.

3. Spread the fish bones and heads in a large roasting pan and pat dry with paper towels. Add the fish and lobster bodies. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and toss well. Spread everything in an even layer. Roast for 30 minutes, or until everything is golden brown. When cool, chop or break the bones and lobster bodies into 2-inch pieces. Spread the fish bones and heads in a large roasting pan and pat dry with paper towels. Add the fish and lobster bodies. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and toss well. Spread everything in an even layer. Roast for 30 minutes, or until everything is golden brown. When cool, chop or break the bones and lobster bodies into 2-inch pieces.

4. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large stockpot over high heat. Add the onion, leek, celery, fennel, carrot, and garlic; season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are golden brown, about 10 minutes. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large stockpot over high heat. Add the onion, leek, celery, fennel, carrot, and garlic; season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are golden brown, about 10 minutes.

5. Add the roasted fish bones and heads, and fish and lobster bodies, along with the white wine. Continue cooking until the liquid has reduced by one-third. You will have to use your best judgment, since the pot will be full of seafood and vegetables; in any event, cook no longer than 2 to 3 minutes. Add the roasted fish bones and heads, and fish and lobster bodies, along with the white wine. Continue cooking until the liquid has reduced by one-third. You will have to use your best judgment, since the pot will be full of seafood and vegetables; in any event, cook no longer than 2 to 3 minutes.

6. Add the remaining soup ingredients to the stockpot and add enough water to just barely cover the bones. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook for 40 minutes. Add the remaining soup ingredients to the stockpot and add enough water to just barely cover the bones. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook for 40 minutes.

7. Puree everything-bones and all-in the food processor, as finely as possible. You will have to do this in batches, pouring the puree into a bowl or other container as you finish each batch. Then pound the puree firmly through a coa.r.s.e China cap (metal strainer) to strain out the large pieces. The resulting soup will be slightly grainy. If the soup seems too thin, return it to the stove and reduce. Taste for seasoning and add more orange juice, Pernod, salt, and pepper if necessary. Puree everything-bones and all-in the food processor, as finely as possible. You will have to do this in batches, pouring the puree into a bowl or other container as you finish each batch. Then pound the puree firmly through a coa.r.s.e China cap (metal strainer) to strain out the large pieces. The resulting soup will be slightly grainy. If the soup seems too thin, return it to the stove and reduce. Taste for seasoning and add more orange juice, Pernod, salt, and pepper if necessary.

8. To serve, pour the olive oil into warmed soup bowls, then ladle in the soup. Serve immediately, offering the croutons, rouille, and Gruyere. It's accepted practice to place a dollop of rouille on a crouton, sprinkle it with grated cheese, and then set it afloat in your soup. To serve, pour the olive oil into warmed soup bowls, then ladle in the soup. Serve immediately, offering the croutons, rouille, and Gruyere. It's accepted practice to place a dollop of rouille on a crouton, sprinkle it with grated cheese, and then set it afloat in your soup.

Acquacotta-Porcini Broth with Soft Polenta, Taleggio, and a Poached Egg Aquacotta, literally, "cooked water," is a dish eaten by shepherds and herdsmen of the Maremma region of Tuscany roughing it in the hills with their sheep or cattle. The dish begins with a pot in which foraged ingredients are cooked with a little oil-often no more than a little garlic and wild greens. Hot water is poured into the pot, and the flavored broth is then ladled into bowls containing a piece of bread and a beaten egg. Numerous variations testify to the resourcefulness of cooks who rely on whatever is at hand: garlic, onions, greens, mushrooms, tomatoes, and perhaps some sheep's milk cheese. a dish eaten by shepherds and herdsmen of the Maremma region of Tuscany roughing it in the hills with their sheep or cattle. The dish begins with a pot in which foraged ingredients are cooked with a little oil-often no more than a little garlic and wild greens. Hot water is poured into the pot, and the flavored broth is then ladled into bowls containing a piece of bread and a beaten egg. Numerous variations testify to the resourcefulness of cooks who rely on whatever is at hand: garlic, onions, greens, mushrooms, tomatoes, and perhaps some sheep's milk cheese.

This is an unabashedly luxurious reworking of the hot-water-goes-over-the-starch-and-egg technique. Chicken broth, unavailable to herdsmen on the move, is flavored with dried porcini mushrooms and poured over polenta with melted Taleggio. This is one case where I always use a homemade stock. A poached egg slips into the broth at the last moment. The touch of a soup spoon breaks the yolk, releasing a rich vein of gold into the mushroom broth. A drizzle of truffle oil doesn't hurt either.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

BROTH.

1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms, reconst.i.tuted in 1 cup warm water (see page 271), coa.r.s.ely chopped (soaking liquid reserved) 4 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) cup dry Marsala Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper POLENTA.

2 cups water Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper cup coa.r.s.ely ground cornmeal 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan 1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar 4 extra-large eggs 1 teaspoon vegetable oil pound Taleggio, trimmed of rind and cut into 12 pieces Freshly ground black pepper 4 teaspoons truffle oil (optional) 1. Combine the chopped porcini, soaking liquid, chicken stock, and Marsala in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer, and cook for 45 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. If you like a clear soup, strain out the mushrooms; if not, leave as is. Keep warm. Combine the chopped porcini, soaking liquid, chicken stock, and Marsala in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer, and cook for 45 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. If you like a clear soup, strain out the mushrooms; if not, leave as is. Keep warm.

2. Meanwhile, bring 2 cups of water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add teaspoon salt and then add the polenta in a slow, steady stream through your fingers, whisking constantly with the other hand so it doesn't clump up. If you get any lumps, mash them against the side of the pot with a wooden spoon and keep stirring. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until the polenta is thick and s.h.i.+ny and begins to pull away from the sides of the pan, about 30 minutes. Regulate the heat as necessary so the mixture doesn't boil over or cook too quickly. Stir in the Parmesan. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and keep warm. Meanwhile, bring 2 cups of water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add teaspoon salt and then add the polenta in a slow, steady stream through your fingers, whisking constantly with the other hand so it doesn't clump up. If you get any lumps, mash them against the side of the pot with a wooden spoon and keep stirring. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until the polenta is thick and s.h.i.+ny and begins to pull away from the sides of the pan, about 30 minutes. Regulate the heat as necessary so the mixture doesn't boil over or cook too quickly. Stir in the Parmesan. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and keep warm.

3. Bring a small pot or skillet of water to a boil. Add the vinegar and season with salt. Lower the heat to a simmer. Crack an egg into a teacup. Tilt the cup and slowly lower it into the simmering water. When the egg is covered with water, tip the cup and release the egg. Repeat with the other 3 eggs. Poach the eggs until the whites are set, 3 to 4 minutes. While the eggs are poaching, rub a small baking dish or deep plate with the vegetable oil. Scoop the eggs out with a slotted spoon and transfer to the dish. Set aside. Bring a small pot or skillet of water to a boil. Add the vinegar and season with salt. Lower the heat to a simmer. Crack an egg into a teacup. Tilt the cup and slowly lower it into the simmering water. When the egg is covered with water, tip the cup and release the egg. Repeat with the other 3 eggs. Poach the eggs until the whites are set, 3 to 4 minutes. While the eggs are poaching, rub a small baking dish or deep plate with the vegetable oil. Scoop the eggs out with a slotted spoon and transfer to the dish. Set aside.

4. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350F. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350F.

5. Divide the polenta among four large warm ovenproof soup bowls. Set 3 pieces of Taleggio on the polenta in each bowl and put a poached egg on top. Sprinkle the eggs with salt and pepper. Put the bowls in the oven until the eggs are heated through, about 4 minutes. Divide the polenta among four large warm ovenproof soup bowls. Set 3 pieces of Taleggio on the polenta in each bowl and put a poached egg on top. Sprinkle the eggs with salt and pepper. Put the bowls in the oven until the eggs are heated through, about 4 minutes.

6. While the eggs are heating, bring the porcini broth back to a simmer. Remove the bowls from the oven. While the eggs are heating, bring the porcini broth back to a simmer. Remove the bowls from the oven.

7. Pour the hot broth into the bowls around the polenta. Drizzle with the truffle oil, if using. Serve immediately. Pour the hot broth into the bowls around the polenta. Drizzle with the truffle oil, if using. Serve immediately.

Squash Blossoms Stuffed with Herbed Cheese in Fritter Batter Every August, zucchini seem to multiply on their vines like the vegetable equivalent of the animated brooms in "The Sorcerer's Apprentice," an explosion of late-summer fecundity that exhausts the cravings of even the most ardent zucchini lover. I say, throttle them in their infancy-pick the zucchini flowers ("squash blossoms," as they're also known) before they can grow up. multiply on their vines like the vegetable equivalent of the animated brooms in "The Sorcerer's Apprentice," an explosion of late-summer fecundity that exhausts the cravings of even the most ardent zucchini lover. I say, throttle them in their infancy-pick the zucchini flowers ("squash blossoms," as they're also known) before they can grow up.

This dish naturally evolved out of ingredients purchased one afternoon in an open-air market-beautiful fresh goat cheeses and several different tapenades. I've since lightened the goat cheese mixture with ricotta. The tapenade should be served as a small garnish on the side, a complementary taste rather than a big spoonful.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

cup unbleached all-purpose flour cup cornstarch 1 extra-large egg, separated (the white should be chilled) cup very cold beer 6 tablespoons high-quality ricotta 6 tablespoons soft goat cheese 1 teaspoon minced shallot 3 tablespoons minced fresh chives 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chervil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 20 large squash blossoms 4 cups vegetable oil for deep-frying cup Green Olive Tapenade (page 25; optional) 1. To make the batter, mix the flour and cornstarch in a bowl. In another bowl, beat the egg white and beer together. Stir this into the flour mixture. Do not overbeat, or the batter will be tough; there should still be some lumps. Cover and refrigerate (it can rest, chilled, up to 2 hours) while you make the stuffing. To make the batter, mix the flour and cornstarch in a bowl. In another bowl, beat the egg white and beer together. Stir this into the flour mixture. Do not overbeat, or the batter will be tough; there should still be some lumps. Cover and refrigerate (it can rest, chilled, up to 2 hours) while you make the stuffing.

2. Mix the cheeses in a bowl with the egg yolk, shallot, and herbs. Season with salt and pepper and 1 teaspoon of the lemon juice. Mix the cheeses in a bowl with the egg yolk, shallot, and herbs. Season with salt and pepper and 1 teaspoon of the lemon juice.

3. Carefully pry apart the petals of each blossom. Remove the stamen. Place a small spoonful of the cheese mixture inside each blossom and gently twist the tips of the blossoms shut. Carefully pry apart the petals of each blossom. Remove the stamen. Place a small spoonful of the cheese mixture inside each blossom and gently twist the tips of the blossoms shut.

4. Heat the vegetable oil in a large deep pot over medium heat to 350F. Use a deep-fry thermometer to check the temperature. Heat the vegetable oil in a large deep pot over medium heat to 350F. Use a deep-fry thermometer to check the temperature.

5. Remove the batter from the refrigerator and stir it once. Dip the blossoms into the batter, then carefully lower them into the hot oil. Fry them in batches until they are golden brown and crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the batter from the refrigerator and stir it once. Dip the blossoms into the batter, then carefully lower them into the hot oil. Fry them in batches until they are golden brown and crisp, 3 to 5 minutes.

6. Divide the blossoms among four warm plates. Drizzle with the remaining 2 teaspoons lemon juice. Garnish each plate with spoonful of tapenade, if using, and serve. Divide the blossoms among four warm plates. Drizzle with the remaining 2 teaspoons lemon juice. Garnish each plate with spoonful of tapenade, if using, and serve.

SQUASH BLOSSOMS OR ZUCCHINI FLOWERSSquash blossoms rarely appear in specialty produce stores; the most reliable place to find them is your own backyard or a farmers' market. If you ask around, you will almost certainly find a zucchini vendor willing to bring you a bag of the flowers the following week. Of course, if you're growing zucchini in your backyard garden, you have a ready source. When shopping for blossoms, look for crisp, fresh petals with no trace of wilting. As the flowers age, the petals, beginning at the tips, start to wilt, then turn slimy. Refrigerate them in a single layer in a lightly covered container and, if possible, use them within a day of purchase. If you refrigerate them in a plastic bag or wrapped in plastic, they'll spoil faster.

Celery Root Ravioli with Sage b.u.t.ter or Crispy Pork Confit Like the Robert Frost poem, this is a two-roads-diverged-in-a-wood recipe. At the end of one road awaits a luscious dish of ravioli with the brown b.u.t.ter and sage sauce traditionally served with squash ravioli. The other road will take you-after many a twist and turn-to one of the most flavorful dishes in this entire book, a fabled taste combination from France, confit plus a slightly sweet root vegetable. this is a two-roads-diverged-in-a-wood recipe. At the end of one road awaits a luscious dish of ravioli with the brown b.u.t.ter and sage sauce traditionally served with squash ravioli. The other road will take you-after many a twist and turn-to one of the most flavorful dishes in this entire book, a fabled taste combination from France, confit plus a slightly sweet root vegetable.

At first glance, Crispy Pork Confit sauce seems like a daunting effort: first you make confit, and that takes hours and hours, hours and hours, and then you make celery root puree, and and then you make celery root puree, and then then you make ravioli from scratch. you make ravioli from scratch. Puh-lease! Puh-lease! Actually, the dish requires more advanced planning than actual labor, and if you buy high-quality pasta sheets to make the ravioli, then even that is reduced. The advanced planning comes in with the confit. True, it does take several hours to make, but it also keeps for several weeks, so all you have to do is find a time when you know you're going to be home for several hours while it cooks. You can even make the ravioli several hours ahead, leaving you with the simple dinner tasks of boiling the ravioli and sauteing the ingredients that accompany the confit. This ought to be reserved for people whom you really care about-and who'll bring lots of expensive red wine when you tell them what you're planning for dinner. Actually, the dish requires more advanced planning than actual labor, and if you buy high-quality pasta sheets to make the ravioli, then even that is reduced. The advanced planning comes in with the confit. True, it does take several hours to make, but it also keeps for several weeks, so all you have to do is find a time when you know you're going to be home for several hours while it cooks. You can even make the ravioli several hours ahead, leaving you with the simple dinner tasks of boiling the ravioli and sauteing the ingredients that accompany the confit. This ought to be reserved for people whom you really care about-and who'll bring lots of expensive red wine when you tell them what you're planning for dinner.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS (40 RAVIOLI).

CELERY ROOT.

1 celery root (about 1 pounds) 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, or more to taste 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 medium white onion, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, minced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth teaspoon grated lemon zest 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh sage teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary 1 recipe Fresh Pasta (page 142) IF USING SAGE SAUCE.

6 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoons chopped fresh sage Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper IF USING PORK CONFIT SAUCE.

2 tablespoons strained duck fat, goose fat, or olive oil from cooking the confit (see below) 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced pound spicy greens (e.g., turnip greens, mustard greens, or arugula), washed and coa.r.s.ely chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 recipe Crispy Pork Confit (page 313), drained of any excess fat 1 apple, peeled, cored, and chopped into -inch dice 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 4 cups high-quality low-sodium canned chicken broth, reduced to 2 cups (see page 32) cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano (for either version) 1. Peel the celery root. Its k.n.o.bby exterior is more easily tackled with a paring knife than a conventional vegetable peeler. Dice the root into 1-inch cubes. (You should end up with about 1 pound peeled, cubed celery root.) Toss with 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice so it doesn't discolor and set aside. Peel the celery root. Its k.n.o.bby exterior is more easily tackled with a paring knife than a conventional vegetable peeler. Dice the root into 1-inch cubes. (You should end up with about 1 pound peeled, cubed celery root.) Toss with 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice so it doesn't discolor and set aside.

2. Melt 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Saute the onions until lightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Take care not to burn them. Transfer to a bowl. Melt 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Saute the onions until lightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Take care not to burn them. Transfer to a bowl.

3. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter to the saucepan. Increase the heat to medium-high and sear the celery root on all sides. Add the garlic, return the onions to the pan and season with salt and pepper. Add the chicken stock, bring to a boil, cover, and lower the heat to a simmer. Cook until the celery root is tender enough to puree and the stock has reduced to a glaze, about an hour. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter to the saucepan. Increase the heat to medium-high and sear the celery root on all sides. Add the garlic, return the onions to the pan and season with salt and pepper. Add the chicken stock, bring to a boil, cover, and lower the heat to a simmer. Cook until the celery root is tender enough to puree and the stock has reduced to a glaze, about an hour.

4. Puree the celery root in a food processor. The texture should resemble that of mashed potatoes. Stir in the lemon zest, sage, rosemary, and the remaining 1 teaspoon lemon juice. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper and lemon juice, if necessary. Transfer to a bowl and let cool. Puree the celery root in a food processor. The texture should resemble that of mashed potatoes. Stir in the lemon zest, sage, rosemary, and the remaining 1 teaspoon lemon juice. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper and lemon juice, if necessary. Transfer to a bowl and let cool.

5. Following the instructions beginning on page 142, roll out the pasta dough to ravioli thickness (the #7 or #8 setting, depending on your machine). Follow the instructions for making ravioli on page 144, using a small spoonful of celery root puree for each ravioli. Transfer the completed ravioli to a lightly floured baking sheet. Following the instructions beginning on page 142, roll out the pasta dough to ravioli thickness (the #7 or #8 setting, depending on your machine). Follow the instructions for making ravioli on page 144, using a small spoonful of celery root puree for each ravioli. Transfer the completed ravioli to a lightly floured baking sheet.

IF YOU'RE GOING TO SERVE THE RAVIOLI WITH THE BROWN b.u.t.tER AND SAGE 1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season it with salt. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season it with salt.

2. While the water heats, melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the sage and cook until the b.u.t.ter turns a deep gold, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and remove from the heat; cover to keep warm. While the water heats, melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the sage and cook until the b.u.t.ter turns a deep gold, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and remove from the heat; cover to keep warm.

3. Add the ravioli to the boiling water and cook, stirring constantly but very carefully until the water returns to a boil. Continue to cook until the ravioli have all floated to the surface and their edges are al dente, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain. Add the ravioli to the boiling water and cook, stirring constantly but very carefully until the water returns to a boil. Continue to cook until the ravioli have all floated to the surface and their edges are al dente, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain.

4. Place the ravioli in a large nonstick saute pan over very low heat. Pour the brown b.u.t.ter and sage over the ravioli and swirl the ravioli to coat them with the sauce. Transfer to four warmed plates, sprinkle with the cheese, and serve. Place the ravioli in a large nonstick saute pan over very low heat. Pour the brown b.u.t.ter and sage over the ravioli and swirl the ravioli to coat them with the sauce. Transfer to four warmed plates, sprinkle with the cheese, and serve.

IF YOU'RE GOING TO SERVE THE RAVIOLI WITH THE CONFIT 1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season it with salt. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season it with salt.

2. While the water is heating, heat 1 tablespoon of the strained fat in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Add the greens, season with salt and pepper, and toss until the greens are tender and wilted. Transfer to a plate. While the water is heating, heat 1 tablespoon of the strained fat in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Add the greens, season with salt and pepper, and toss until the greens are tender and wilted. Transfer to a plate.

3. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon fat to the pan and increase the heat to medium-high. Add the pork and sear on the first side until crispy, about 4 minutes, then flip and sear on the other side. Transfer to a plate. Add the apple to the pan and sear until golden. Transfer to the plate with the pork. Add the chicken stock to the pan and reduce by half. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon fat to the pan and increase the heat to medium-high. Add the pork and sear on the first side until crispy, about 4 minutes, then flip and sear on the other side. Transfer to a plate. Add the apple to the pan and sear until golden. Transfer to the plate with the pork. Add the chicken stock to the pan and reduce by half.

4. Meanwhile, when the chicken stock has almost finished reducing, add the ravioli to the boiling water and cook, stirring constantly but very carefully, until the water returns to a boil. Continue to cook until the ravioli have all floated to the surface and their edges are al dente, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain. Meanwhile, when the chicken stock has almost finished reducing, add the ravioli to the boiling water and cook, stirring constantly but very carefully, until the water returns to a boil. Continue to cook until the ravioli have all floated to the surface and their edges are al dente, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain.

5. Add the ravioli to the pan with the sauce. Add the greens, pork, and apples and gently stir everything together to heat through. Transfer to four warmed plates, sprinkle with the pecorino, and serve. Add the ravioli to the pan with the sauce. Add the greens, pork, and apples and gently stir everything together to heat through. Transfer to four warmed plates, sprinkle with the pecorino, and serve.

[image]Crispy Pork Confit[image]

Confit started out as a technique for cooking and preserving game and other types of meat, especially duck, goose, and pork. Pieces of meat were salted and braised slowly in fat, usually goose or duck fat, then stored in crocks, with a layer of rendered fat covering the cooked meat. Throughout the winter, a dish of root vegetables or cabbage could be considerably enlivened with the addition of a scoop or two of confit. Confit can also be served by itself as a luxurious appetizer (this recipe makes more than enough for 4), accompanied with sauteed apples and wilted greens. technique for cooking and preserving game and other types of meat, especially duck, goose, and pork. Pieces of meat were salted and braised slowly in fat, usually goose or duck fat, then stored in crocks, with a layer of rendered fat covering the cooked meat. Throughout the winter, a dish of root vegetables or cabbage could be considerably enlivened with the addition of a scoop or two of confit. Confit can also be served by itself as a luxurious appetizer (this recipe makes more than enough for 4), accompanied with sauteed apples and wilted greens.

MAKES 1 POUND.

SPICE MIX.

teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon ground allspice teaspoon ground cloves teaspoon dried sage teaspoon dried thyme teaspoon celery seeds teaspoon fennel seeds 2 bay leaves, crushed cup kosher salt 1 pound pork b.u.t.t, cut into 8 pieces 6 cups duck or goose fat (subst.i.tute extra virgin olive oil if you cannot get the fat) 4 garlic cloves, chopped 1 medium onion, thinly sliced DO AHEAD: Marinate the pork. Marinate the pork.

1. Combine the spice mixture ingredients in a medium bowl. Toss the pork pieces with the spice mix, cover, and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 12 to 18 hours. Combine the spice mixture ingredients in a medium bowl. Toss the pork pieces with the spice mix, cover, and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 12 to 18 hours.

2. Heat the duck fat in a large heavy Dutch oven over medium heat. (It's important to use a pot with a heavy bottom so that it conducts the heat evenly.) Add the garlic cloves and onion and cook for 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low. Check the temperature with a deep-fry thermometer-it should read 185F. Lower the heat if necessary. Heat the duck fat in a large heavy Dutch oven over medium heat. (It's important to use a pot with a heavy bottom so that it conducts the heat evenly.) Add the garlic cloves and onion and cook for 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low. Check the temperature with a deep-fry thermometer-it should read 185F. Lower the heat if necessary.

3. Remove the pork from the refrigerator, rinse well, and pat dry with paper towels. Carefully lower the pork into the fat. It should be submerged. Cook, uncovered, until the meat is falling apart, 2 to 3 hours. Let cool in the fat. Remove the pork from the refrigerator, rinse well, and pat dry with paper towels. Carefully lower the pork into the fat. It should be submerged. Cook, uncovered, until the meat is falling apart, 2 to 3 hours. Let cool in the fat.