In The Hands Of A Chef Part 19

4. Remove the pork from the pot and shred into -inch pieces. Strain the fat. Transfer the pork to a gla.s.s or ceramic container and add enough fat to just cover it. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Strain the remaining fat into a container, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for another use. The confit and fat will keep for several weeks refrigerated. Remove the pork from the pot and shred into -inch pieces. Strain the fat. Transfer the pork to a gla.s.s or ceramic container and add enough fat to just cover it. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Strain the remaining fat into a container, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for another use. The confit and fat will keep for several weeks refrigerated.

Fresh and Salt Cod Wrapped in Pancetta with Wilted Greens Both fresh cod and salt cod are often paired with greens or pancetta in cla.s.sic Italian recipes, but you rarely see the two served on the same plate. Early in my career, I came up with the idea of creating a pocket of salt cod inside a piece of fresh cod and then giving each portion a "belt" of crisp pancetta to hold it together. I come back to it again and again because of the contrasting textures and flavors, and because it makes me feel good. Serve it with polenta for a fabulous comfort meal. cod are often paired with greens or pancetta in cla.s.sic Italian recipes, but you rarely see the two served on the same plate. Early in my career, I came up with the idea of creating a pocket of salt cod inside a piece of fresh cod and then giving each portion a "belt" of crisp pancetta to hold it together. I come back to it again and again because of the contrasting textures and flavors, and because it makes me feel good. Serve it with polenta for a fabulous comfort meal.

This recipe asks you to slice partway through a fresh cod fillet, leaving it attached on one side. This creates a pocket for the salt cod. Obviously, the thicker the fillet, the easier it is to slice through it. But really hefty cod fillets- inch thick or more-are difficult to come by in these days of diminis.h.i.+ng cod stocks, especially since seafood wholesalers often reserve the thickest cuts for the restaurant trade. If you can't find thick fillets, simply buy thin ones flexible enough to wrap around a piece of salt cod. Skip the instructions in Step 3 that call for you to slice the fresh fillets. Instead, season one side of the fillets with salt and pepper and thyme, as per the recipe, then wrap the fresh fillets around the salt cod. Continue with Step 4. When placing the bundles in the saute pan, cook the side with the overlapping layers of pancetta first. The pancetta slices will bind together as they cook, holding the fillets in place.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

pound skinless, boneless salt cod of even thickness, center cut Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Four 6-ounce cod fillets, approximately inch thick (see headnote) 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves 12 thin slices pancetta (5 to 6 ounces) (see box) cup extra virgin olive oil 1 small red onion, thinly sliced 1 garlic clove, minced 6 to 8 cups mixed greens (such as watercress, radicchio, mustard greens, and Belgian endive) cup water 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, chilled 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed 4 lemon wedges DO AHEAD: Soak the salt cod for 12 hours. Soak the salt cod for 12 hours.

1. Soak the salt cod for 12 hours in a large bowl of cold water, changing the water 3 or 4 times. When finished, the cod should Soak the salt cod for 12 hours in a large bowl of cold water, changing the water 3 or 4 times. When finished, the cod should not not be completely salt-free, or it will have lost its distinctive flavor. It should taste about as salty as a fish that you've seasoned and cooked with salt. Drain the cod. be completely salt-free, or it will have lost its distinctive flavor. It should taste about as salty as a fish that you've seasoned and cooked with salt. Drain the cod.

2. Place the salt cod in a small saucepan, cover with cold water, and bring just to a boil over moderate heat. Remove from the heat and let stand until the cod is barely cooked through, about 5 minutes. Drain and trim away any bones and membranes. Cut into quarters, cover. (Refrigerate if doing ahead.) Place the salt cod in a small saucepan, cover with cold water, and bring just to a boil over moderate heat. Remove from the heat and let stand until the cod is barely cooked through, about 5 minutes. Drain and trim away any bones and membranes. Cut into quarters, cover. (Refrigerate if doing ahead.) 3. Using a chef's knife, slice horizontally through each fresh cod fillet to within an inch of the opposite side, so that the two halves of the fillet can be opened (see headnote if you're using thin fillets of cod). Season the inside of the fillets with salt and pepper and sprinkle the inside of each with teaspoon of the thyme. Put a piece of poached salt cod inside each fillet and close the two halves. Spread 3 overlapping slices of the pancetta side by side on a work surface and place a cod fillet in the center. Bring the pancetta up and over the cod, wrapping it snugly to form a neat package. Repeat with the remaining cod and pancetta to form 4 packages. (Before you proceed to the next step, read About Pancetta.) Using a chef's knife, slice horizontally through each fresh cod fillet to within an inch of the opposite side, so that the two halves of the fillet can be opened (see headnote if you're using thin fillets of cod). Season the inside of the fillets with salt and pepper and sprinkle the inside of each with teaspoon of the thyme. Put a piece of poached salt cod inside each fillet and close the two halves. Spread 3 overlapping slices of the pancetta side by side on a work surface and place a cod fillet in the center. Bring the pancetta up and over the cod, wrapping it snugly to form a neat package. Repeat with the remaining cod and pancetta to form 4 packages. (Before you proceed to the next step, read About Pancetta.) 4. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saute pan over high heat. As soon as the oil is hot, sear the cod bundles on one side until the pancetta is pink and slightly crispy, about 5 minutes. Carefully turn the cod over and cook until the fish is opaque, 3 to 4 more minutes. Transfer the cod to a platter and keep warm. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saute pan over high heat. As soon as the oil is hot, sear the cod bundles on one side until the pancetta is pink and slightly crispy, about 5 minutes. Carefully turn the cod over and cook until the fish is opaque, 3 to 4 more minutes. Transfer the cod to a platter and keep warm.

5. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in the saute pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the onion and cook, stirring, until soft, about 2 minutes. Stir in the garlic and then add the greens. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until just wilted, about 1 minute. Transfer the greens to four warm plates. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in the saute pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the onion and cook, stirring, until soft, about 2 minutes. Stir in the garlic and then add the greens. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until just wilted, about 1 minute. Transfer the greens to four warm plates.

6. Add the water and lemon juice to the saute pan and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and whisk in the b.u.t.ter, 1 tablespoon at a time. Whisk in the capers and any juices that have acc.u.mulated on the fish platter, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the water and lemon juice to the saute pan and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and whisk in the b.u.t.ter, 1 tablespoon at a time. Whisk in the capers and any juices that have acc.u.mulated on the fish platter, and season to taste with salt and pepper.

7. Transfer the fish to the plates with the greens. Spoon the sauce over the fish, garnish with the lemon wedges, and serve immediately. Transfer the fish to the plates with the greens. Spoon the sauce over the fish, garnish with the lemon wedges, and serve immediately.

ABOUT PANCETTAAlthough pancetta is often called "Italian bacon," that description is misleading. Pancetta is hung and cured in a process similar to that of prosciutto, and it can be eaten in its uncooked state, an adventure most cooks would forgo when it comes to bacon. One of the most delicious samples of street food I've ever eaten was a grilled cheese, potato, and pancetta sandwich in Aix. A line of eager customers was snapping up the sandwiches as fast as the streetcorner vendor could pump them out with his old-fas.h.i.+oned hinged waffle iron. The potatoes were sliced thin and precooked. The pancetta was only heated long enough for the cheese to melt and the bread to crisp. It was still pink and soft, though warm, and incredibly good. Keep this in mind when sauteing the cod bundles-the pancetta wrapping should only be partially crisp, and still fairly pink, when finished. Don't treat it like bacon-you'll only sacrifice the pancetta's rich texture, as well as overcook the fish.

Roasted Marinated Long Island Duck with Green Olive and Balsamic Vinegar Sauce I created this duck dish created this duck dish more than eleven years ago for my first menu at Michela's, based on a Sicilian tradition of pairing duck with green olives. It was an immediate hit. When my partners and I opened Rialto, the first thing customers familiar with my food asked was, "Where's the duck?" It's been on the menu almost continuously ever since. more than eleven years ago for my first menu at Michela's, based on a Sicilian tradition of pairing duck with green olives. It was an immediate hit. When my partners and I opened Rialto, the first thing customers familiar with my food asked was, "Where's the duck?" It's been on the menu almost continuously ever since.

In Steamed and Pan-Roasted Duck (page 247), I instruct you to steam the bird and then to slowly pan-roast it on top of the stove. This recipe uses a different strategy for rendering the fat and crisping the skin. It calls for roasting the duck in the oven at a low temperature (so the fat renders without smoking), then crisping the duck pieces in a covered heavy saute pan on top of the stove.

Much of this recipe can be prepared in advance. You can make the optional sauce the day before and reheat it later. You can also roast the duck ahead and cut it into pieces, leaving yourself only the step of crisping it on top of the stove before serving.

Unless your idea of a good time is sc.r.a.ping roasting pans, use a nonstick or disposable deep roasting pan and a nonstick V-rack.

MAKES 2 ENTReE SERVINGS (SEE DUCK FOR MORE THAN TWO, PAGE 319, IF YOU WANT TO STRETCH IT).

One 5-pound Long Island duck, with neck and gizzard MARINADE.

cup balsamic vinegar cup soy sauce cup Dijon mustard 1 teaspoons mustard seeds 1 teaspoons dried rosemary 1 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper small white onion, chopped into -inch dice 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper About cup vegetable oil 4 teaspoons balsamic vinegar Green Olive and Balsamic Vinegar Sauce (recipe follows; optional) 4 sprigs rosemary for garnish DO AHEAD: Marinate the duck the night before roasting. Marinate the duck the night before roasting.

1. Remove the paper sack containing the gizzard, heart, and liver from the cavity of the duck. If you're going to make the sauce, rinse the gizzard, then wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate until you're ready to make the sauce. Set the heart and liver aside for another use or discard (the liver would only make the sauce muddy). The sack may contain the neck of the duck, or the neck may simply have been placed inside the cavity. In either event, retrieve the neck and rinse, wrap, and refrigerate it until ready to use in the sauce. Remove the paper sack containing the gizzard, heart, and liver from the cavity of the duck. If you're going to make the sauce, rinse the gizzard, then wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate until you're ready to make the sauce. Set the heart and liver aside for another use or discard (the liver would only make the sauce muddy). The sack may contain the neck of the duck, or the neck may simply have been placed inside the cavity. In either event, retrieve the neck and rinse, wrap, and refrigerate it until ready to use in the sauce.

2. Cut off the wing tips (the last two segments of the wings) and refrigerate with the neck for use in the sauce. Cut off the fatty flaps around the neck opening and trim the fat from around the opening to the cavity. Discard the fatty tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs. Rinse the duck inside and out and pat dry. Carefully poke the skin of the bird all over with a fork or skewer. Try not to penetrate beyond the fat layer into the meat-if you poke too far, the juices will run out during cooking along with the fat. Poking the skin from a sharp angle instead of straight in will help. Cut off the wing tips (the last two segments of the wings) and refrigerate with the neck for use in the sauce. Cut off the fatty flaps around the neck opening and trim the fat from around the opening to the cavity. Discard the fatty tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs. Rinse the duck inside and out and pat dry. Carefully poke the skin of the bird all over with a fork or skewer. Try not to penetrate beyond the fat layer into the meat-if you poke too far, the juices will run out during cooking along with the fat. Poking the skin from a sharp angle instead of straight in will help.

3. Mix all of the marinade ingredients together in a large bowl. Roll the duck all around in the marinade, making sure that plenty of marinade flows inside the cavity. Cover and marinate overnight in the refrigerator. Mix all of the marinade ingredients together in a large bowl. Roll the duck all around in the marinade, making sure that plenty of marinade flows inside the cavity. Cover and marinate overnight in the refrigerator.

4. When ready to begin roasting, preheat the oven to 325F. When ready to begin roasting, preheat the oven to 325F.

5. Remove the duck from the marinade (don't sc.r.a.pe off the marinade); set the marinade aside. Season the bird inside and out with salt and pepper. Set the marinated duck breast side down on a nonstick V-rack in a roasting pan. The duck must be at least 2 inches above the bottom of the pan. Pour the remaining marinade over it. Add inch of water to the roasting pan to keep any drippings from burning. Place the pan in the oven and roast for 1 hour. Remove the duck from the marinade (don't sc.r.a.pe off the marinade); set the marinade aside. Season the bird inside and out with salt and pepper. Set the marinated duck breast side down on a nonstick V-rack in a roasting pan. The duck must be at least 2 inches above the bottom of the pan. Pour the remaining marinade over it. Add inch of water to the roasting pan to keep any drippings from burning. Place the pan in the oven and roast for 1 hour.

6. Flip the duck breast side up. Carefully p.r.i.c.k the thighs with a fork again (remember not to penetrate the meat). Rotate the pan so the opposite side of the duck is now toward the back of the oven. Continue roasting until the skin is dark brown and just about all of the fat has melted off the body of the duck, another 2 to 2 hours. (If you're going to make the sauce, now is a good time to do it.) The duck is done when the leg bones have a little play in the socket when you try to wiggle them. If you p.r.i.c.k the thickest part of the thigh, the juices should run clear; an instant-read digital thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh should read 180F. Let the duck rest for 20 minutes before breaking it down. Flip the duck breast side up. Carefully p.r.i.c.k the thighs with a fork again (remember not to penetrate the meat). Rotate the pan so the opposite side of the duck is now toward the back of the oven. Continue roasting until the skin is dark brown and just about all of the fat has melted off the body of the duck, another 2 to 2 hours. (If you're going to make the sauce, now is a good time to do it.) The duck is done when the leg bones have a little play in the socket when you try to wiggle them. If you p.r.i.c.k the thickest part of the thigh, the juices should run clear; an instant-read digital thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh should read 180F. Let the duck rest for 20 minutes before breaking it down.

7. When the duck is cool enough to handle, cut it into 4 pieces, according to the directions on page 250. When the duck is cool enough to handle, cut it into 4 pieces, according to the directions on page 250.

8. Heat a -inch layer of vegetable oil in a large heavy-bottomed saute pan over high heat until very hot. A nonstick pan will help alleviate the chance of sticking, but it's not necessary if the pan is heavy and you don't add the duck until the oil is quite hot. Sprinkle the duck pieces liberally with salt and pepper. When the oil is almost smoking, add the duck pieces skin side down. Do not disturb the duck pieces once you have set them in the pan. Allow them to sear for 1 minute, then adjust the heat to low, cover the pan, and cook until the meat is warm and the skin is crisp, about 15 minutes. Pour off any excess fat that acc.u.mulates. Sprinkle the meat side with the balsamic vinegar. Heat a -inch layer of vegetable oil in a large heavy-bottomed saute pan over high heat until very hot. A nonstick pan will help alleviate the chance of sticking, but it's not necessary if the pan is heavy and you don't add the duck until the oil is quite hot. Sprinkle the duck pieces liberally with salt and pepper. When the oil is almost smoking, add the duck pieces skin side down. Do not disturb the duck pieces once you have set them in the pan. Allow them to sear for 1 minute, then adjust the heat to low, cover the pan, and cook until the meat is warm and the skin is crisp, about 15 minutes. Pour off any excess fat that acc.u.mulates. Sprinkle the meat side with the balsamic vinegar.

9. Arrange the duck on a warm platter. If you've made the sauce, drizzle it around the meat, making sure to distribute the olives evenly about the platter. Garnish with the rosemary sprigs and serve. Arrange the duck on a warm platter. If you've made the sauce, drizzle it around the meat, making sure to distribute the olives evenly about the platter. Garnish with the rosemary sprigs and serve.

[image]Green Olive and Balsamic Vinegar Sauce[image]

I usually prepare this sauce usually prepare this sauce while the duck is roasting, but if it's easier for you, you can make it a day ahead and reheat before serving. Omit the final addition of b.u.t.ter and olives until you're ready to serve it. while the duck is roasting, but if it's easier for you, you can make it a day ahead and reheat before serving. Omit the final addition of b.u.t.ter and olives until you're ready to serve it.

MAKES ABOUT CUP.

Wing tips, neck, and gizzard from 1 duck 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 shallots, coa.r.s.ely chopped small carrot, peeled and coa.r.s.ely chopped celery stalk, coa.r.s.ely chopped teaspoon chopped fresh thyme teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary 2 bay leaves cup dry red wine 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 4 cups high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth, reduced to 2 cups (see page 32) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 to 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter (optional) 10 large Sicilian green olives, pitted 1. Using a cleaver or st.u.r.dy knife (don't use your favorite knife-chopping bones can ruin the edge), chop the wing tips and neck into 3-inch pieces. Coa.r.s.ely chop the gizzard. Heat the vegetable oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Add the chopped wing and neck pieces. Cook until well browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Pour off any excess fat. Add the gizzard, shallots, carrots, and celery. Cook until well browned, about 5 minutes. Using a cleaver or st.u.r.dy knife (don't use your favorite knife-chopping bones can ruin the edge), chop the wing tips and neck into 3-inch pieces. Coa.r.s.ely chop the gizzard. Heat the vegetable oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Add the chopped wing and neck pieces. Cook until well browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Pour off any excess fat. Add the gizzard, shallots, carrots, and celery. Cook until well browned, about 5 minutes.

2. Lower the heat to medium. Add the herbs and wine and reduce to a glaze, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the chicken stock and reduce until the sauce coats the back of a spoon, about 25 minutes. Strain. (There should be about cup.) Season the sauce with salt, pepper, and 1 tablespoon vinegar, or more, to taste. Keep warm, or reheat when ready to serve. Just before serving whisk in the b.u.t.ter, if using, and add the olives. Lower the heat to medium. Add the herbs and wine and reduce to a glaze, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the chicken stock and reduce until the sauce coats the back of a spoon, about 25 minutes. Strain. (There should be about cup.) Season the sauce with salt, pepper, and 1 tablespoon vinegar, or more, to taste. Keep warm, or reheat when ready to serve. Just before serving whisk in the b.u.t.ter, if using, and add the olives.

DUCK FOR MORE THAN TWOAlmost every duck recipe you'll ever see in a cookbook is for one duck. I didn't know this (or was too obtuse to notice) until the time came to write my own recipes. At our house, we frequently cook two ducks at a time. We have two children, and if we want to have company and duck the same night we have no choice but to cook two ducks. Both of the duck recipes in this book will easily double. Marinade, sauce, etc.-double them all.A large roasting pan, especially one of the extra-large disposable ones, will usually hold two ducks side by side on V-racks. If you use a disposable roasting pan (and I always use either nonstick or disposable), use two, one inside the other, so there won't be any question of the pan holding the weight of two ducks. You also need two large heavy-bottomed saute pans for crisping or pan-roasting, depending on the recipe. For the Roasted Marinated Long Island Duck, you could crisp the duck in batches, keeping the first batch warm for 15 minutes in the oven while you crisp the second, but for the Steamed and Pan-Roasted Duck (page 247), which cooks entirely on top of the stove, you definitely need a second pan. I have an inexpensive cast-iron frying pan for just such situations. I improvise the lid, resorting to an old circular platter (the heat is on low, so I'm not worried about breaking it) or even aluminum foil.Can you stretch one duck to serve four eaters? Yes, if there are plenty of other things to eat, and you make a few adjustments in your carving technique. Begin by following the instructions for How to Break Down a Duck on page 250. Continue the process by cutting each breast piece crosswise in two. Cut the legs off the thighs. You will end up with 4 breast pieces, 2 legs and 2 thighs. Believe it or not, there's usually a leg or thigh piece left over at the end of the meal.

Roast Christmas Goose Stuffed with Brandied Figs, Chestnuts, and Rye Bread Believe me, if there's a way to go wrong with geese, I've probably done it, including filling my house with a black cloud of acrid smoke when I once tried to "jumpstart" the goose at 500F. But I love the rich flavor of goose meat so much that I persevered through my mistakes until arriving at the method outlined in this recipe. I've also picked up a few tricks for accurately determining when the goose is not just cooked, but way to go wrong with geese, I've probably done it, including filling my house with a black cloud of acrid smoke when I once tried to "jumpstart" the goose at 500F. But I love the rich flavor of goose meat so much that I persevered through my mistakes until arriving at the method outlined in this recipe. I've also picked up a few tricks for accurately determining when the goose is not just cooked, but done. done.

Goose meat has an undeserved reputation for tasting greasy-it doesn't, or at least no more than a well-marbled steak does. In this recipe much of the fat is rendered before the goose even begins to roast. Then the goose is roasted at a low temperature, to prevent smoking.

For those willing to try it, roast goose comes with two golden eggs: goose fat, worth its weight in gold in the opinion of anyone who has ever eaten a French fry cooked in it or made Crispy Pork Confit (page 313), and a carca.s.s that is easily transformed into goose stock, an invaluable ingredient for Goose Risotto (page 174).

MAKES 8 TO 10 ENTReE SERVINGS.

One 10-to 12-pound goose STUFFING.

cup Cognac 1 cup dried figs, preferably Turkish, cut into quarters 6 ounces smoked bacon, chopped into -inch dice 1 cups cooked and peeled chestnuts (see page 244), broken into large pieces 2 medium onions, chopped into -inch dice 8 celery stalks, chopped into -inch dice Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 3 cups -inch cubes dry rye bread (trimmed of crusts) 2 cups -inch cubes dry white bread, (trimmed of crusts) 1 cup diced cranberries 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme cup chopped fresh sage GRAVY.

Wing tips, neck, and gizzard from the goose 2 tablespoons vegetable oil carrot, chopped 1 celery stalk, chopped 4 shallots, chopped 1 cup dry vermouth cup Cognac 4 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 8 cups high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth, reduced to 4 cups (see page 32) 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 bunch of sage, for garnish DO AHEAD: Blanch the goose and refrigerate for 24 hours. Blanch the goose and refrigerate for 24 hours.

TO PREP THE GOOSE.

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. The pot should be large enough so that you can submerge at least half of the goose in the boiling water. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. The pot should be large enough so that you can submerge at least half of the goose in the boiling water.

2. Meanwhile, cut the neck flap and any excess fat off the goose. Remove the sack containing the neck and giblets and refrigerate until ready to make the sauce. Using a st.u.r.dy knife or poultry shears, clip off the wing tips and reserve for the sauce. Carefully pierce the skin all over with a sharp fork or skewer, to allow the fat to render more efficiently. Jab the skin at a sharp angle so that you poke through the skin into the layer of fat without penetrating into the meat. If you pierce the meat, it will dry out during cooking. Meanwhile, cut the neck flap and any excess fat off the goose. Remove the sack containing the neck and giblets and refrigerate until ready to make the sauce. Using a st.u.r.dy knife or poultry shears, clip off the wing tips and reserve for the sauce. Carefully pierce the skin all over with a sharp fork or skewer, to allow the fat to render more efficiently. Jab the skin at a sharp angle so that you poke through the skin into the layer of fat without penetrating into the meat. If you pierce the meat, it will dry out during cooking.

3. Using rubber gloves, carefully lower one end of the goose into the boiling water. At least half of the goose should be submerged in the water. After 1 minute, carefully withdraw the goose and submerge the other end. Take care not to spill any hot water from the goose cavities on yourself. After 1 minute, remove the goose from the pot. Drain any water from the cavities, pat dry, and refrigerate, uncovered, for 24 hours. Using rubber gloves, carefully lower one end of the goose into the boiling water. At least half of the goose should be submerged in the water. After 1 minute, carefully withdraw the goose and submerge the other end. Take care not to spill any hot water from the goose cavities on yourself. After 1 minute, remove the goose from the pot. Drain any water from the cavities, pat dry, and refrigerate, uncovered, for 24 hours.

TO STUFF AND ROAST THE GOOSE.

4. Pour the Cognac over the figs and let them steep for 20 minutes. Pour the Cognac over the figs and let them steep for 20 minutes.

5. In a large frying pan, cook the bacon over medium heat until most of the fat is rendered. Remove the bacon and set aside. Leave the fat in the pan. Add the chestnuts and cook over medium heat until they start to brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer them to a large bowl. In a large frying pan, cook the bacon over medium heat until most of the fat is rendered. Remove the bacon and set aside. Leave the fat in the pan. Add the chestnuts and cook over medium heat until they start to brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer them to a large bowl.

6. Add the onions and celery to the pan, season with salt and pepper, and cook over medium heat until tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, another minute or two. Add the figs, with the Cognac, and cook until most of the liquid is gone, about 4 minutes. Let cool. Add the onions and celery to the pan, season with salt and pepper, and cook over medium heat until tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, another minute or two. Add the figs, with the Cognac, and cook until most of the liquid is gone, about 4 minutes. Let cool.

7. Add the sauteed vegetables, bread cubes, cranberries, bacon, 1 tablespoon of the sage, and thyme to the bowl with the chestnuts; toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Add the sauteed vegetables, bread cubes, cranberries, bacon, 1 tablespoon of the sage, and thyme to the bowl with the chestnuts; toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper.

8. Preheat the oven to 325F. Preheat the oven to 325F.

9. Season the goose inside and out with salt and pepper. Poke the bird all over once again, taking care not to penetrate the meat. Fill the cavity of the goose loosely with stuffing. Secure the legs with string. Rub the outside with cup of chopped sage. Set the bird breast side down on a V-rack in a roasting pan, preferably both nonstick. Add inch of water to the pan. Roast for 1 hours. Season the goose inside and out with salt and pepper. Poke the bird all over once again, taking care not to penetrate the meat. Fill the cavity of the goose loosely with stuffing. Secure the legs with string. Rub the outside with cup of chopped sage. Set the bird breast side down on a V-rack in a roasting pan, preferably both nonstick. Add inch of water to the pan. Roast for 1 hours.

10. Turn the goose breast side up and roast for an addidonal Turn the goose breast side up and roast for an addidonal 2 2 to 3 hours. Telling when a goose is done can be a little tricky. Using an instant-read digital thermometer at the thickest part of the thigh, as you would for a turkey, is misleading. Theoretically, a reading of 170F would indicate that the goose is cooked, but in my experience, if you pull the goose out of the oven at this point, the meat is cooked but still very tough. You need to let the goose roast for at least another 45 minutes beyond this point. When the skin starts to pull away from the breastbone, there's a good chance the goose is done; the skin on both the breast and legs should also be puffed out. If you squeeze the legs, the meat should feel soft, almost as though it were braised and falling apart, not intact. As a final test, p.r.i.c.k the skin at the base of the thigh-if the juices are clear (or there are no juices at all), the goose is probably done. If the juices are pink, continue roasting. Begin making the gravy during the final roasting phase. to 3 hours. Telling when a goose is done can be a little tricky. Using an instant-read digital thermometer at the thickest part of the thigh, as you would for a turkey, is misleading. Theoretically, a reading of 170F would indicate that the goose is cooked, but in my experience, if you pull the goose out of the oven at this point, the meat is cooked but still very tough. You need to let the goose roast for at least another 45 minutes beyond this point. When the skin starts to pull away from the breastbone, there's a good chance the goose is done; the skin on both the breast and legs should also be puffed out. If you squeeze the legs, the meat should feel soft, almost as though it were braised and falling apart, not intact. As a final test, p.r.i.c.k the skin at the base of the thigh-if the juices are clear (or there are no juices at all), the goose is probably done. If the juices are pink, continue roasting. Begin making the gravy during the final roasting phase.

TO MAKE THE GRAVY.

11. Using a cleaver or st.u.r.dy knife (don't use your favorite knife-chopping bones can ruin the edge), chop the wing tips, gizzard, and neck into 3-inch pieces. Heat the vegetable oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Add the wings, neck, and gizzard to the pan and cook until well browned, about 15 minutes. Remove from the pan and discard. Pour off any excess fat. Add the carrot, celery, and shallots. Cook until well browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Using a cleaver or st.u.r.dy knife (don't use your favorite knife-chopping bones can ruin the edge), chop the wing tips, gizzard, and neck into 3-inch pieces. Heat the vegetable oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Add the wings, neck, and gizzard to the pan and cook until well browned, about 15 minutes. Remove from the pan and discard. Pour off any excess fat. Add the carrot, celery, and shallots. Cook until well browned, 5 to 6 minutes.

12. Off the heat, add the vermouth and Cognac. Return the pan to medium heat and cook until the liquids reduce to a glaze, 10 to 12 minutes. As the liquids reduce, use a wooden spoon to sc.r.a.pe the bottom of the pan so the crispy bits dissolve in the liquid. Add the chicken stock and reduce until the sauce coats the back of a spoon, about 35 minutes. Strain. (There should be about 2 cups reduced stock.) Set aside until the goose finishes roasting. Off the heat, add the vermouth and Cognac. Return the pan to medium heat and cook until the liquids reduce to a glaze, 10 to 12 minutes. As the liquids reduce, use a wooden spoon to sc.r.a.pe the bottom of the pan so the crispy bits dissolve in the liquid. Add the chicken stock and reduce until the sauce coats the back of a spoon, about 35 minutes. Strain. (There should be about 2 cups reduced stock.) Set aside until the goose finishes roasting.

13. I'm quite picky about crispy goose skin and I've found that the skin acquires an appealing crackly texture in the normal coa.r.s.e of roasting. If you want the skin even crisper, when the goose is done, increase the oven temperature to 400F. Transfer the goose, still on its rack, to another roasting pan, and return it to the oven for 15 minutes. (If you don't use a new pan, the goose fat in the old one will start to smoke.) Set the first pan aside for gravy. Whether you go through this last step or not, allow the goose to rest for 30 minutes before carving. I'm quite picky about crispy goose skin and I've found that the skin acquires an appealing crackly texture in the normal coa.r.s.e of roasting. If you want the skin even crisper, when the goose is done, increase the oven temperature to 400F. Transfer the goose, still on its rack, to another roasting pan, and return it to the oven for 15 minutes. (If you don't use a new pan, the goose fat in the old one will start to smoke.) Set the first pan aside for gravy. Whether you go through this last step or not, allow the goose to rest for 30 minutes before carving.

14. To finish the gravy, pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the roasting pan. Save the goose fat for another day when you need a treat (see box). Be careful not to pour off the caramelized drippings. Put the roasting pan on top of the stove over low heat. Sprinkle the flour into the pan. Using the back of a slotted spoon, stir the flour about the pan, sc.r.a.ping the crispy bits of drippings loose. Cook until the flour starts to brown, about 5 minutes. Add 1 cup of the reduced stock and stir until the flour and crispy bits are as mixed with the sauce as possible (some might not dissolve-that's okay). Add the remaining stock and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm. To finish the gravy, pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the roasting pan. Save the goose fat for another day when you need a treat (see box). Be careful not to pour off the caramelized drippings. Put the roasting pan on top of the stove over low heat. Sprinkle the flour into the pan. Using the back of a slotted spoon, stir the flour about the pan, sc.r.a.ping the crispy bits of drippings loose. Cook until the flour starts to brown, about 5 minutes. Add 1 cup of the reduced stock and stir until the flour and crispy bits are as mixed with the sauce as possible (some might not dissolve-that's okay). Add the remaining stock and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

15. Scoop the stuffing out of the goose. Present the goose at the table, along with the stuffing and gravy. If you're brave, you can carve at the table, but I like to carve goose or turkey in the kitchen. Removing the drumsticks is an untidy task made easier if you flip the bird onto its side. I also prefer to remove each side of the breast whole, then slice each half crosswise. Arrange the meat on the platter, garnish with sage, and serve. Scoop the stuffing out of the goose. Present the goose at the table, along with the stuffing and gravy. If you're brave, you can carve at the table, but I like to carve goose or turkey in the kitchen. Removing the drumsticks is an untidy task made easier if you flip the bird onto its side. I also prefer to remove each side of the breast whole, then slice each half crosswise. Arrange the meat on the platter, garnish with sage, and serve.

GOOSE FATGoose fat is heaven. My own experience suggests it appeals to a little-understood area of the limbic system activated only by duck confit, high-rise doughnuts, and white truffles. Unless you're from a culinary tradition that celebrates frying, it's difficult to imagine the qualitative difference in flavor between foods fried in goose fat and those cooked in ordinary vegetable oil, or even high-quality olive oil. At Rialto, whenever goose fat makes a seasonal appearance, the kitchen staff indulges in what one of my cooks has dubbed "Just Say No Fries," French fries cooked twice in goose fat. First we fry them, then we let them cool, then we fry them again. The second frying gives them an unearthly crispiness. "Addictive" doesn't do them justice.Whenever I roast a goose, I save the fat. As soon as it's cool enough to handle, I pour it into -cup plastic containers with snug lids. Refrigerated, it seems to last for months. Potatoes, turnips, and beets, sliced thin, are all delicious sauteed in goose fat, and Swiss chard and spinach take on an otherworldly flavor when wilted in a tablespoon of goose fat.

Roast Shoulder of Veal with Parmesan Crust Stuffing a shoulder or other cut of beef or veal with herbs, cheese, vegetables, and other ingredients and then slowly braising or roasting it is an economically prudent way of infusing an inexpensive cut of meat with complex, satisfying flavors. This recipe evolved out of my reading about the food of Abruzzo. The region's mountainous interior is one of the least populated and most agriculturally challenging areas in Italy. This dish includes a traditional Abruzzese combination of spices and peppers, as well as scamorza, a chewier, slightly drier regional variation of mozzarella. Accompany with roast potatoes, soft polenta, or a simple pasta like penne tossed with extra virgin olive oil and cheese. cut of beef or veal with herbs, cheese, vegetables, and other ingredients and then slowly braising or roasting it is an economically prudent way of infusing an inexpensive cut of meat with complex, satisfying flavors. This recipe evolved out of my reading about the food of Abruzzo. The region's mountainous interior is one of the least populated and most agriculturally challenging areas in Italy. This dish includes a traditional Abruzzese combination of spices and peppers, as well as scamorza, a chewier, slightly drier regional variation of mozzarella. Accompany with roast potatoes, soft polenta, or a simple pasta like penne tossed with extra virgin olive oil and cheese.

Leftover roast shoulder of veal is delicious served cold. If you want to serve the leftovers hot, carefully arrange the sliced veal in a lightly oiled roasting pan. Cover tightly with foil and reheat in a 350F oven for 20 minutes, keeping a close watch so it doesn't overcook and dry out.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

1 boneless veal shoulder (about 3 pounds) MARINADE.

2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme 1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 1 tablespoon fennel seeds, toasted 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest cup extra virgin olive oil STUFFING.

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 red peppers, roasted (see page 99), peeled, stemmed, and seeded cup Roasted Garlic (1 head garlic; page 119) coa.r.s.ely mashed with a fork 3 anchovies, rinsed and chopped 5 ounces scamorza (use fresh mozzarella if scamorza is unavailable), diced into -inch cubes 2 cups spicy greens (arugula, mustard greens, watercress, or any combination), washed and trimmed of tough stems Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper pound freshly grated Parmesan DO AHEAD: Marinate the veal shoulder for at least 12 hours; longer is fine. Marinate the veal shoulder for at least 12 hours; longer is fine.

1. Unfold the veal shoulder and remove any sinew or cartilage overlooked by the butcher. Mix the marinade ingredients together in a bowl large enough to contain the veal. Add the veal shoulder and turn in the marinade until thoroughly and evenly coated. Cover and refrigerate for 12 hours. Unfold the veal shoulder and remove any sinew or cartilage overlooked by the butcher. Mix the marinade ingredients together in a bowl large enough to contain the veal. Add the veal shoulder and turn in the marinade until thoroughly and evenly coated. Cover and refrigerate for 12 hours.

2. Preheat the oven to 450F. Preheat the oven to 450F.

3. Unfold the shoulder on a work surface and season the exposed surface with salt and pepper. Lay the roasted red peppers evenly over the meat. Season with salt and pepper. Spread the garlic and anchovies over the peppers. Sprinkle with the scamorza and top with the spicy greens. Roll the shoulder up and tie with butcher's twine. Unfold the shoulder on a work surface and season the exposed surface with salt and pepper. Lay the roasted red peppers evenly over the meat. Season with salt and pepper. Spread the garlic and anchovies over the peppers. Sprinkle with the scamorza and top with the spicy greens. Roll the shoulder up and tie with butcher's twine.

4. Season the outside of the veal with salt and pepper. Set the shoulder on a V-rack in a roasting pan and roast until browned, about 30 minutes. Lower the heat to 350F and roast for another 30 minutes. Season the outside of the veal with salt and pepper. Set the shoulder on a V-rack in a roasting pan and roast until browned, about 30 minutes. Lower the heat to 350F and roast for another 30 minutes.

5. Sprinkle the shoulder with the grated Parmesan and press the cheese firmly against the surface of the meat. Roast for an additional 15 to 20 minutes, or until the desired degree of doneness (figure on 20 minutes per pound). The shoulder is done to medium when an instant-read digital thermometer inserted into the center registers an internal temperature of 130F. Allow the veal to repose for 20 minutes on top of the stove. (During this resting period, the internal temperature will rise to between 145 and 150F.) Sprinkle the shoulder with the grated Parmesan and press the cheese firmly against the surface of the meat. Roast for an additional 15 to 20 minutes, or until the desired degree of doneness (figure on 20 minutes per pound). The shoulder is done to medium when an instant-read digital thermometer inserted into the center registers an internal temperature of 130F. Allow the veal to repose for 20 minutes on top of the stove. (During this resting period, the internal temperature will rise to between 145 and 150F.) 6. To serve, carefully (in order to disturb the cheese crust as little as possible) cut away the twine and place the shoulder on a platter. Slice the shoulder crosswise at the table, one serving at a time, and serve two slices, each about 1 inch thick, per person. Do not attempt to slice the portions and arrange for serving on a large platter-veal shoulder doesn't hold together well, and you could end up with a frustrating jumble of meat and stuffing. If you cut and serve a portion at a time, however, you can make sure each slice arrives at its intended recipient's place as a neat medallion, with the brilliantly colored stuffing intact in the center of each slice. To serve, carefully (in order to disturb the cheese crust as little as possible) cut away the twine and place the shoulder on a platter. Slice the shoulder crosswise at the table, one serving at a time, and serve two slices, each about 1 inch thick, per person. Do not attempt to slice the portions and arrange for serving on a large platter-veal shoulder doesn't hold together well, and you could end up with a frustrating jumble of meat and stuffing. If you cut and serve a portion at a time, however, you can make sure each slice arrives at its intended recipient's place as a neat medallion, with the brilliantly colored stuffing intact in the center of each slice.

Glazed Sweetbreads with Capers, Smoked Ham, and Pecans Sweetbreads are easy to love. With a texture like silken dumplings and a mild flavor reminiscent of nuts or mushrooms, what's not to like? Sweetbreads are the thymus glands of young animals. In this country, they almost always come from calves, but in Europe it's not unusual to find lamb and even pork sweetbreads. They take to the same rich sauces that the French and Italians typically reserve for their finest cuts of veal-wine, cream, Cognac, wild mushrooms, and truffles. In this recipe, the sweetbreads' own flavor contrasts with the tastes of balsamic vinegar and pecans, instead of drowning in a pool of luxury. With a texture like silken dumplings and a mild flavor reminiscent of nuts or mushrooms, what's not to like? Sweetbreads are the thymus glands of young animals. In this country, they almost always come from calves, but in Europe it's not unusual to find lamb and even pork sweetbreads. They take to the same rich sauces that the French and Italians typically reserve for their finest cuts of veal-wine, cream, Cognac, wild mushrooms, and truffles. In this recipe, the sweetbreads' own flavor contrasts with the tastes of balsamic vinegar and pecans, instead of drowning in a pool of luxury.

Preparing sweetbreads seems complicated because several different steps over several days are involved, but the process is simple: soaking the sweetbreads to remove any residual blood, poaching, weighting (see box), marinating, and then searing them in a saute pan. Poach the sweetbreads a day ahead of serving. On the day of serving, marinate the sweetbreads for 2 to 3 hours before the final saute.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

2 pounds fresh veal sweetbreads POACHING LIQUID.

1 celery stalk, chopped into -inch pieces 1 small white onion, chopped into -inch dice 2 cups water 1 cup dry white wine 2 bay leaves teaspoon dried thyme 10 black peppercorns 1 teaspoon mustard seeds Kosher salt MARINADE.

cup balsamic vinegar cup honey cup soy sauce 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons chopped white onion 2 teaspoons cracked black pepper cup olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper SAUCE.

1 medium red onion, sliced inch thick 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 cups dry sherry teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary 4 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 8 cups high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth, reduced to 4 cups (see page 32) 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed 4 thin slices Black Forest ham (or good-quality smoked ham), sliced into 1-inch-wide strips cup pecans, toasted and chopped in half crosswise 2 to 4 teaspoons unsalted b.u.t.ter Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1. A couple of days before you intend to serve them, soak the sweetbreads in cold water for 8 hours to remove any residual blood, changing the water 5 times. With each change, the water should become less cloudy, until the water in the final soaking remains clear. They are now ready to poach. A couple of days before you intend to serve them, soak the sweetbreads in cold water for 8 hours to remove any residual blood, changing the water 5 times. With each change, the water should become less cloudy, until the water in the final soaking remains clear. They are now ready to poach.

2. To make the poaching liquid, combine the celery, onion, water, white wine, bay leaves, thyme, peppercorns, and mustard seeds in a large saucepan and bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Season with salt. Taste the liquid-the salt should be evident. Add the sweetbreads and poach until semifirm, 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the size of the lobe. Drain. Discard the poaching liquid. To make the poaching liquid, combine the celery, onion, water, white wine, bay leaves, thyme, peppercorns, and mustard seeds in a large saucepan and bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Season with salt. Taste the liquid-the salt should be evident. Add the sweetbreads and poach until semifirm, 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the size of the lobe. Drain. Discard the poaching liquid.

3. After the sweetbreads have cooled, use a paring knife to remove the exterior membrane. Don't try to remove every speck of membrane-if you're too meticulous, the lobes of the sweetbreads will fall apart. Cut the peeled sweetbreads into 8 pieces and refrigerate until ready to marinate. After the sweetbreads have cooled, use a paring knife to remove the exterior membrane. Don't try to remove every speck of membrane-if you're too meticulous, the lobes of the sweetbreads will fall apart. Cut the peeled sweetbreads into 8 pieces and refrigerate until ready to marinate.

4. Two to 3 hours before serving, marinate the trimmed pieces: Mix all the marinade ingredients in a nonreactive container large enough to hold the sweetbreads. Add the sweetbreads, turning to coat. Marinate in the refrigerator. Two to 3 hours before serving, marinate the trimmed pieces: Mix all the marinade ingredients in a nonreactive container large enough to hold the sweetbreads. Add the sweetbreads, turning to coat. Marinate in the refrigerator.

5. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the red onion and cook until translucent. Add the garlic and cook just until the garlic releases its aroma, just a minute. Add the sherry and cook until it reduces to a glaze, about 20 minutes. Add the rosemary and chicken stock. Continue cooking until it reduces to cup, about 30 minutes. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the red onion and cook until translucent. Add the garlic and cook just until the garlic releases its aroma, just a minute. Add the sherry and cook until it reduces to a glaze, about 20 minutes. Add the rosemary and chicken stock. Continue cooking until it reduces to cup, about 30 minutes.

6. Add the capers, ham, and pecans to the sauce and cook for 1 minute. Whisk in the b.u.t.ter. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Keep warm. Add the capers, ham, and pecans to the sauce and cook for 1 minute. Whisk in the b.u.t.ter. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Keep warm.

7. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Dry the sweetbreads and season with salt and pepper. Brown the sweetbreads on all sides until crispy. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Dry the sweetbreads and season with salt and pepper. Brown the sweetbreads on all sides until crispy.

8. Transfer the sweetbreads to the pan with the sauce to heat through. Serve immediately. Transfer the sweetbreads to the pan with the sauce to heat through. Serve immediately.

TO WEIGHT OR NOT TO WEIGHTTraditional recipes often call for sweetbreads to be flattened under a weighted dish after poaching. Otherwise, so the reasoning goes, their texture will be spongy. I've never found this to be the case. The only advantage to flattening sweetbreads is that they're slightly easier to saute, and this seems hardly worth the trouble. To decide for yourself, poach the sweetbreads and then arrange them in a single layer in a shallow pan or dish. Place a second pan on top of the sweetbreads, pressing down directly on the sweetbreads. Weight the pan with 3 pounds of cans. Allow the sweetbreads to rest, weighted, for at least 8 hours in the refrigerator while they flatten, then marinate them and proceed with the recipe.

Roasted Spice-Rubbed Pork with Greens, Rice, Black Beans, and Lime At Red Clay, our second restaurant, we wanted to offer a menu of cla.s.sic comfort food from around the world baked in glazed clay pots. In this recipe, four simple preparations-roast pork, black beans, bitter greens, and plain white rice-are cooked separately, then a.s.sembled and heated together. Latin cultures bring beans, rice, and pork together in dozens of different ways. For me, nothing beats the combination of black beans, lime, and rum, and I adore pork b.u.t.t. Although much has been made of the health benefits of lean pork, pork b.u.t.t is one of the few parts of today's lean pig that tastes the way pork should taste-rich, flavorful, and tender. restaurant, we wanted to offer a menu of cla.s.sic comfort food from around the world baked in glazed clay pots. In this recipe, four simple preparations-roast pork, black beans, bitter greens, and plain white rice-are cooked separately, then a.s.sembled and heated together. Latin cultures bring beans, rice, and pork together in dozens of different ways. For me, nothing beats the combination of black beans, lime, and rum, and I adore pork b.u.t.t. Although much has been made of the health benefits of lean pork, pork b.u.t.t is one of the few parts of today's lean pig that tastes the way pork should taste-rich, flavorful, and tender.

The most challenging aspect of the recipe is simply remembering you've got to get started on this dish a day or two before serving it. If I'm planning a midday Sunday dinner, I marinate the pork on Friday night. Sometime on Sat.u.r.day, I roast the pork. While the pork is roasting, I make the beans, greens, and rice, all simple preparations. On Sunday, all I have to do is a.s.semble the dish and heat it.

Just remember that you'll need a 3-quart glazed clay pot or ceramic ca.s.serole. The recipe is easily doubled, but use two 3-quart ca.s.seroles for the final a.s.sembly instead of trying to heat everything in a single large pot. This is a joy for leftovers. Everything will keep for a couple of days if refrigerated. Cover tightly and reheat in a 375F oven for 20 minutes.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

SPICE RUB.

2 tablespoons coriander seeds 2 teaspoons c.u.min seeds 2 tablespoons fennel seeds 2 tablespoons mustard seeds 1 tablespoon ground ginger 1 tablespoon paprika 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 tablespoons brown sugar 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon grated orange zest PORK.

One 2-pound pork b.u.t.t (Boston b.u.t.t) roast Kosher salt cup freshly squeezed lime juice 1 lime, scrubbed and cut into quarters cup Chicken Stock (page 31), or high-quality, low-sodium canned broth, as needed BLACK BEANS.

1 cup dried black beans, picked over for stones and broken beans and rinsed 1 teaspoon c.u.min seeds 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 medium white onion, chopped into -inch dice 6 garlic cloves, coa.r.s.ely chopped cup crushed tomatoes, canned or fresh 3 jalapeno peppers, stemmed, seeded, and minced 1 tablespoon dried oregano cup dark rum Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice cup chopped fresh cilantro GREENS.

2 pounds mustard greens or broccoli rabe, washed and trimmed of tough stems 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 cups cooked white rice GARNISH.

1 cup Fresh Tomato Salsa (page 331) 1 lime, cut into quarters 4 sprigs cilantro DO AHEAD: Marinate the pork for at least 12 hours; longer is fine. Marinate the pork for at least 12 hours; longer is fine.

FOR THE PORK.

1. Toast the coriander, c.u.min, fennel, and mustard seeds in a dry pan over low heat until they start to pop and are aromatic. Remove from the heat. When they are cool, grind them in a spice mill or with a mortar and pestle. Toast the coriander, c.u.min, fennel, and mustard seeds in a dry pan over low heat until they start to pop and are aromatic. Remove from the heat. When they are cool, grind them in a spice mill or with a mortar and pestle.

2. Combine the ground toasted spices with the remaining spice rub ingredients. Rub the spice mixture over the entire pork b.u.t.t. You will have a good deal of leftover spice rub; set it aside until needed. Cover the pork and allow to marinate for 12 hours in the refrigerator. Combine the ground toasted spices with the remaining spice rub ingredients. Rub the spice mixture over the entire pork b.u.t.t. You will have a good deal of leftover spice rub; set it aside until needed. Cover the pork and allow to marinate for 12 hours in the refrigerator.