A Voyage to the South Sea Part 6

They ran very nimbly over the rocks, had a very quick sight, and caught the small beads and nails which I threw to them with great dexterity.

They talked to us sitting on their heels with their knees close into their armpits and were perfectly naked.

In my return towards the s.h.i.+p I landed at the point of the harbour near Penguin Island, and from the hills saw the water on the other side of the low isthmus of Cape Frederick Henry, which forms the bay of that name. It is very extensive and in, or near, the middle of the bay there is a low island. From this spot it has the appearance of being a very good and convenient harbour.

The account which I had from Brown, the botanist's a.s.sistant, was that in his search for plants he had met an old man, a young woman, and two or three children. The old man at first appeared alarmed, but became familiar on being presented with a knife. He nevertheless sent away the young woman who went very reluctantly. He saw some miserable wigwams, in which were nothing but a few kangaroo skins spread on the ground, and a basket made of rushes.

Among the wood that we cut here we found many scorpions and centipedes, with numerous black ants that were an inch long. We saw no mosquitoes, though in the summer months they are very troublesome.

What is called the New Zealand tea plant grew here in great abundance; so that it was not only gathered and dried to use as tea but made excellent brooms. It bears a small pointed leaf of a pleasant smell, and its seed is contained in a berry, about the size of a pea, notched into five equal parts on the top. The soil on the west and south sides of the bay is black mould with a mixture of fine white sand and is very rich. The trees are lofty and large, and the underwood grows so close together that in many places it is impa.s.sable. The east side of the bay is a rich loamy soil; but near the tops of the hills is very much enc.u.mbered with stones and rocks: the underwood thinly placed and small. The trees on the south, south-east, and south-west sides of the hills grow to a larger size than those that are exposed to the opposite points; for the sides of the trees open or exposed to the north winds are naked with few branches; while the other sides are in a flouris.h.i.+ng state. From this I do not infer that the equatorial are more hurtful than the polar winds; but that the trees by their situation were more sheltered from the one for from the other.

Wednesday 3.

A calm prevented our sailing today. The friendly interview which we had had with the natives made me expect that they would have paid us a visit; but we saw nothing more of them except fires in the night upon the low land to the northward.

The result of the observations which I made here, reduced to Penguin Island, place it in 43 degrees 21 minutes 11 seconds south lat.i.tude and in longitude 147 degrees 33 minutes 29 seconds east, which scarcely differs from the observations made in 1777. The variation of the compa.s.s observed on sh.o.r.e was 8 degrees 38 minutes east; and on board the s.h.i.+p 8 degrees 29 minutes east. It was high-water at the change of the moon at 49 minutes past six in the morning. The rise was two feet eight inches.

Southerly winds, if of any continuance, make a considerable difference in the height of the tides.

Thursday 4.

This forenoon, having a pleasant breeze at north-west, we weighed anchor and sailed out of Adventure Bay. At noon the southernmost part of Maria's Isles bore north 52 degrees east, about five leagues distant; Penguin Island south 86 degrees west; and Cape Frederick Henry north 65 degrees west. In this position we had soundings at 57 fathoms, a sandy bottom.

Lat.i.tude observed 43 degrees 22 minutes south.

The southern part of Maria's Islands lie in lat.i.tude 43 degrees 16 minutes south. The country is not in general woody, but in some of the interior parts there appeared great abundance. Among these islands I have no doubt of there being many convenient places for s.h.i.+pping. On the east side in lat.i.tude 42 degrees 42 minutes south and longitude 148 degrees 24 minutes east in July, 1789, Captain c.o.x of the Mercury found a convenient and secure harbour from all winds which he named Oyster Bay. Here he found wood, water, and fish in great abundance. It has two outlets and lies north, a little easterly, distant 34 miles from the south-easternmost island, or point, seen from Adventure Bay.

Adventure Bay is a convenient and safe place for any number of s.h.i.+ps to take in wood and water during the summer months: but in the winter, when the southerly winds are strong, the surf, on all parts of the sh.o.r.e, makes the landing exceedingly troublesome. The bay of Frederick Henry may perhaps be found preferable, as it appears to be equally easy of access.

The soundings in Adventure Bay are very regular: near the west sh.o.r.e are some patches of weed but no shoal or danger, the depth on them being from five to nine fathoms.

CHAPTER 5.

Rocky Islands discovered.

See the Island Maitea and arrive at Otaheite.

s.h.i.+p crowded by the Natives.

1788. September.

Being clear of the land we steered towards the east-south-east, it being my intention to pa.s.s to the southward of New Zealand, as I expected in that route to meet with constant westerly winds; in which however I was disappointed, for they proved variable and frequently from the eastward blowing strong, with thick misty weather. The thermometer varied from 41 to 46 degrees.

Sunday 14.

On the 14th at noon we were in 49 degrees 24 minutes south lat.i.tude and in 168 degrees 3 minutes east longitude, which is on the same meridian with the south end of New Zealand. We altered our course, steering to the northward of east, and frequently saw rock-weed which I supposed to have drifted from New Zealand. The sea now became rougher from our being exposed to a long swell which came from the north-east.

Friday 19.

On the 19th at daylight we discovered a cl.u.s.ter of small rocky islands bearing east by north four leagues distant from us. We had seen no birds or anything to indicate the nearness of land except patches of rock-weed, for which the vicinity of New Zealand sufficiently accounted. The wind being at north-east prevented our near approach to these isles; so that we were not less than three leagues distant in pa.s.sing to the southward of them. The weather was too thick to see distinctly: their extent was only 3 1/2 miles from east to west and about half a league from north to south: their number including the smaller ones was thirteen. I could not observe any verdure on any of them: there were white spots like patches of snow but, as Captain Cook, in describing the land of New Zealand, near Cape South, says, in many places there are patches like white marble, it is probable that what we saw might be of the same kind as what he had observed. The westernmost of these islands is the largest; they are of sufficient height to be seen at the distance of seven leagues from a s.h.i.+p's deck. When the easternmost bore north I tried for soundings, being then 10 miles distant from the nearest of them, and found bottom at 75 fathoms, a fine white sand: and again at noon, having run six leagues more to the east-south-east, we had soundings at 104 fathoms, a fine brimstone-coloured sand. The lat.i.tude of these islands is 47 degrees 44 minutes south; their longitude 179 degrees 7 minutes east, which is about 145 leagues to the east of the Traps, near the south end of New Zealand.

Variation of the compa.s.s here 17 degrees east. While in sight of the islands we saw some penguins, and a white kind of gull with a forked tail. Captain Cook's track in 1773 was near this spot, but he did not see the islands: he saw seals and penguins hereabouts, but considered New Zealand to be the nearest land. I have named them after the s.h.i.+p the Bounty Isles.

Sunday 21.

This day we saw a seal, some rock-weed, and a great many albatrosses. I tried for soundings but found no bottom at 230 fathoms depth. Our lat.i.tude 47 degrees 32 minutes south, longitude 182 degrees 36 minutes east.

October. Thursday 2.

Were in 40 degrees 27 minutes south lat.i.tude and 214 degrees 4 minutes east longitude. It being calm, and a number of small blubbers about the s.h.i.+p, I took up some in a bucket, but I saw no difference between them and the common blubbers in the West Indies. We frequently in the night-time observed the sea to be covered with luminous spots caused by prodigious quant.i.ties of small blubbers that, from the strings which extend from them, emit a light like the blaze of a candle, while the body continues perfectly dark.

Friday 3.

The 3rd in the morning we saw a seal. Captain Cook has remarked seeing seaweed when nearly in the same place. Our lat.i.tude 40 degrees 21 minutes south, longitude 215 degrees east. Variation of the compa.s.s 7 degrees 45 minutes east. Being now well to the eastward of the Society Islands I steered more to the northward.

We continued to have the southern oceanic birds accompany us and a few whales. The people caught albatrosses and fattened them in the same manner which they had done when off Cape Horn. Some of these measured near eight feet between the tips of the wings when spread.

Thursday 9.

On Thursday the 9th we had the misfortune to lose one of our seamen, James Valentine, who died in the night of an asthmatic complaint. This poor man had been one of the most robust people on board until our arrival at Adventure Bay, where he first complained of some slight indisposition for which he was bled, and got better. Some time afterwards the arm in which he had been bled became painful and inflamed: the inflammation increased, with a hollow cough, and extreme difficulty of breathing, to his death.

Monday 13.

The 13th in the afternoon we saw two land birds like what are called sand-larks. Our lat.i.tude at this time was 28 degrees 3 minutes south and longitude 223 degrees 26 minutes east.

Tuesday 14.

The next morning we saw a tropic bird and some fish. The winds were light and variable with calms from this time to the 19th, when a breeze sprang up from the north-east, which gradually came round to the eastward and proved to be the tradewind. Our lat.i.tude on the 19th at noon was 24 degrees 13 minutes south, longitude 222 degrees 17 minutes east.

Variation of the compa.s.s 5 degrees 19 minutes east.

Sat.u.r.day 25.

On the 25th at half-past seven in the morning we saw the Island Maitea, called Osnaburg by Captain Wallis, who first discovered it. At noon it bore south-west by west one-quarter west, six miles distant. Our lat.i.tude 17 degrees 50 minutes south, longitude 212 degrees 24 minutes east.

Variation five degrees east. As Captain Wallis and Captain Cook had both pa.s.sed near the south side, I ran along the north side, which is remarkably steep. The island is high and round and not more than three miles in its greatest extent. The south side, where the declivity from the hill is more gradual, is the chief place of residence of the natives; but the north side, from the very summit down to the sea, is so steep that it can afford no support to the inhabitants. We steered pretty close in to the northward of the east end, where we saw but few habitations: a very neat house on a small eminence, delightfully situated in a grove of coconut-trees, particularly attracted our notice. About twenty of the natives followed us along sh.o.r.e, waving and showing large pieces of cloth; but the surf on the sh.o.r.e was too high to think of having any communication with them. I observed a great number of coconut-trees but did not see one plantain-tree. There were other trees but of what kind we could not distinguish: near the east end are two remarkable rocks, and a reef runs off to the eastward about half a league.

The lat.i.tude of Maitea is 17 degrees 53 minutes south; and by our timekeeper its longitude is 1 degree 24 minutes east from Point Venus.

Variation of the compa.s.s 5 degrees 36 minutes east.

We continued our course to the westward, and at six in the evening saw Otaheite bearing west three-quarters south; the island Maitea, then in sight, bearing east half south, eight leagues distant. As there was great probability that we should remain a considerable time at Otaheite, it could not be expected that the intercourse of my people with the natives should be of a very reserved nature: I therefore ordered that every person should be examined by the surgeon, and had the satisfaction to learn from his report that they were all perfectly free from any venereal complaint.

Sunday 26.

On the 26th at four o'clock in the morning, having run twenty-five leagues from Maitea, we brought to till daylight, when we saw Point Venus bearing south-west by west, distant about four leagues. As we drew near a great number of canoes came off to us. Their first enquiries were if we were tyos, which signifies friends; and whether we came from Pretanie (their p.r.o.nunciation of Britain) or from Lima: they were no sooner satisfied in this than they crowded on board in vast numbers, notwithstanding our endeavours to prevent it, as we were working the s.h.i.+p in; and in less than ten minutes the deck was so full that I could scarce find my own people. At nine in the forenoon we were obliged to anchor in the outer part of Matavai Bay, in thirteen fathoms, being prevented by light variable winds from placing the s.h.i.+p in a proper berth. In this station the west part of One-tree hill bore south by east half east one mile distant.

This pa.s.sage of fifty-two days from Van Diemen's Land may be rated as moderate sailing. We pa.s.sed New Zealand with the spring equinox and the winds, though strong, were at no time violent. To the southward of 40 degrees 0 minutes south they were variable; between the lat.i.tudes of 40 and 33 degrees south the wind kept in the north-west quarter; afterwards till we got into the trade the winds were variable, mostly from the eastward, but light and inclinable to calms. The s.h.i.+p was 3 degrees 22 minutes in longitude to the eastward of the dead reckoning, which the timekeeper almost invariably proved to be owing to a current giving us more easting than the log. Our track was as distant from any course of former s.h.i.+ps as I could conveniently make it and, though we made no new discoveries, except the small cl.u.s.ter of islands near New Zealand, yet in other parts of the track, as has been noticed, we met with signs of being in the neighbourhood of land.

It may not be unworthy of remark that the whole distance which the s.h.i.+p had run by the log, in direct and contrary courses, from leaving England to our anchoring at Otaheite, was twenty-seven thousand and eighty-six miles which, on an average, is at the rate of a hundred and eight miles each twenty-four hours.

CHAPTER 6.

Account of an English s.h.i.+p lately sailed from Otaheite.

Death of Omai.

Captain Cook's Picture sent on board.

Otoo visits the s.h.i.+p.