Camp Life In The Woods And The Tricks Of Trapping And Trap Making Part 2

This is commonly set for bears, although a deer or a puma becomes its frequent tenant. As its name implies it consists of a coop of logs, arranged after the principle of the Coop Trap described on page 67. The logs should be about eight feet in length, notched at the ends as described for the Log Cabin, page (244). Lay two of the logs parallel about seven feet apart. Across their ends in the notches, lay two others and continue building up in "cob-house"

fas.h.i.+on until the height of about six feet is reached. The corners may be secured as they are laid by spikes, or they may be united afterward in ma.s.s by a rope firmly twisted about them from top to bottom. Logs should now be laid across the top of the coop and firmly secured by the spikes or rope knots. There are several ways of setting the trap. A modification of that described on page 67 works very well, or an arrangement of spindle and bait stick, as in the Box Trap, page 105, may also be employed. In the latter case, the bait stick is either inserted between the logs at the back of the coop, or a hole is bored through one of them for this purpose. For this mode of setting, the coop should be constructed beneath some tree. It is set by means of a rope attached to the upper edge of one of its sides the rope being thrown over a limb of the tree and the loose end brought down and secured to the bait stick by a spindle, as described [Page 34]

for the trap on page (195). The limb here acts in place of the tall end piece of the Box Trap, and by raising the coop up to such an angle as that it will be nearly poised, the setting may be made so delicate that a mere touch on the bait stick from the interior will dislodge the pieces and let fall the enclosure. The _simplest_ mode of setting the trap is that embodied in the "snare" method on page (52). The rope is here provided with a knot, which must pa.s.s easily between the logs, or through the hole at the back of the coop, the length of rope being so arranged as that the coop shall be sufficiently raised where the knot projects into the interior. The introduction of the bait stick beneath the knot will thus prevent the latter from being drawn back, and thus our trap is set. The bait stick in any case should be about two feet in length; and with this leverage but a slight touch will be required to spring the pieces. In the latter method the limb of the tree is not necessary.

A stout crotched stake driven into the ground about twenty feet, at the back of the coop, will answer every purpose, and the coop may be constructed wherever desired. This is a most excellent trap for large animals. It secures the game alive, and is thus often productive of most exciting sport. For the bear, the bait should consist of honey or raw meat. Full directions for baiting all kinds of American game are given under their respective heads in another part of this book. The Coop Trap may be constructed of any dimensions, from the small example on page (67) to the size above described.

There are several other inventions commonly used for the capture of large animals in various parts of the globe, which would be of little avail in this country. Such is the African Corrall, or Hopo, by which whole herds of quaggas, elands, and buffalo are often destroyed. The trap consists of two hedges in the form of the letter V, which are very high and thick at the angle. Instead of the hedges being joined at this point, they are made to form a lane about two hundred feet in length, at the extremity of which a giant pit is formed. Trunks of trees are laid across the margins to prevent the animals from escaping. The opening of this pit is then covered with light reeds and small green boughs. The hedges often extend miles in length and are equally as far apart at these extremities. The tribe of hunters make a circle, three or four miles around the country adjacent to the opening, and gradually closing up are almost sure to enclose a large body of game, which, by shouts and skilfully hurled Javelins, they drive into the narrowing [Page 35]

walls of the Hopo. The affrighted animals rush headlong to the gate presented at the end of the converging hedges and here plunge pell-mell into the pit, which is soon filled with a living ma.s.s. Some escape by running over the others; and the natives, wild with excitement, spear the poor animals with mad delight, while others of the brutes are smothered and crushed by the weight of their dead and dying companions. It is a most cruel and inhuman device, and its effects are sometimes appalling.

THE NET TRAP.

The lion and tiger are often taken in a net, which is secured to a frame work and suspended over a tempting bait. When the latter is touched the net falls, and the victim becomes entangled in the meshes and is securely caught. So far as we know, this mode of capture is never tried in this country. For the puma, lynx and wild-cat we fancy it might work admirably. The net should be of stout cord, and should be secured to a heavy square frame work, tilted as in the coop trap, already described. There should be plenty of slack in the net, and the looseness should be drawn flat over the framework in folds. The contrivance may be set by a large figure four trap, page (107), or the device described under the coop trap, page (67).

The use of bird lime, for the capture of a tiger, certainly seems odd; but it is, nevertheless, a common mode of taking the animal, in the countries where this marauder abounds. The viscid, tenacious preparation known as bird lime is described on page (97) and is familiar to most of our readers. For the capture of birds it is unfailing, when once their delicate plumage comes in contact with it. Its effect on the tiger is surprising, and many a hunter has secured his striped foe by its aid. For this purpose, the cans of the preparation are arranged on elevated boards around a bed of leaves, in which the bait is placed. A small platform is so placed that the tiger shall step upon it in reaching for the bait, which, by the aid of strings, tilts the boards and tips off the cans. The lime spills on its victim and over the bed of leaves, and the tiger, in his endeavors to free himself from the sticky substance only succeeds in spreading it, and as he rolls and tumbles on the ground he soon becomes completely smeared and covered with the dry leaves, from which it is impossible for him to extricate himself.

In his frantic rage he writhes upon the ground and becomes an easy [Page 36]

prey to the hunter, who is generally on hand for the fray.

Steel traps are much used for the capture of large game, and are made in sizes especially adapted for the purpose. These are described under the proper head, in another portion of this work; and the various baits and modes of setting required for the different animals, are clearly set forth under their respective t.i.tles of the latter, in the section "Art of Trapping."

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[Ill.u.s.tration: SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS]

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BOOK II.

SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS.

[Ill.u.s.tration: T]hese devices, although properly coming under the head of "traps," differ from them in the sense in which they are generally understood. A _snare_ naturally implies an _entanglement_; and for this reason the term is applied to those contrivances which secure their victims by the aid of strings or nooses. Inventions of this kind are among the most useful and successful to the professional Trapper, and their varieties are numerous. The "Twitch-up" will be recognized as a familiar example by many of our country readers, who may have seen it during their rambles, cautiously set in the low underbrush, awaiting its prey, or perhaps holding aloft its misguided victim.

Snares are among the most interesting and ingenious of the trap kind, besides being the most sure and efficacious. They possess one advantage over all other traps; they can be made in the woods, and out of the commonest material.

Let the young trapper supply himself with a small, sharp hatchet, and a stout, keen edged jack-knife,--these being the only tools required. He should also provide himself with a coil of fine bra.s.s "sucker wire," or a quant.i.ty of horse-hair nooses (which will be described further on), a small ball of tough twine and a pocket full of bait, such as apples, corn, oats and the like, of course depending upon the game he intends to trap. With these, his requirements are complete, and he has the material for a score of capital snares, which will do him much excellent service if properly constructed.

Perhaps the most common of the noose traps is the ordinary

QUAIL SNARE,

which forms the subject of our first ill.u.s.tration. This consists of a series of nooses fastened to a strong twine or wire. They [Page 40]

may be of any number, and should either consist of fine wire, horse-hair, or fine fish-line. If of wire, common bra.s.s "sucker wire," to be found in nearly all hardware establishments and country stores, is the best. Each noose should be about four inches in diameter. To make it, a small loop should be twisted on one end of the wire, and the other pa.s.sed through it, thus making a slipping loop, which will be found to work very easily. Fifteen or twenty of these nooses should be made, after which they should be fastened either to a stout string or wire, at distances of about four inches from each other, as seen in our ill.u.s.tration. Each end of the long string supporting the nooses should then be fastened to a wooden peg. After selecting the ground, the pegs should be driven into the earth, drawing the string tightly, as seen in our ill.u.s.tration.

The ground around the nooses should then be sprinkled with corn, oats, and the like, and the trap is set. As a general thing, it is advisable to set it in a neighborhood where quails are known to abound; and as they run all over the ground in search of food, they are sure to come across the bait strewn for them, and equally as certain to be caught and entangled in the nooses. The writer has known as many as six quails to be thus caught at a time, on a string of only twelve nooses. Partridges and woodc.o.c.k will occasionally be found entangled in the snare, and it will oft-times happen that a rabbit will be secured by the device.

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HOOP NOOSES.

This is a variation from the above, the noose being attached to a barrel hoop and the latter being fastened to two stout posts, which are firmly driven into the ground. By their scattering the bait inside the hoop, and adjusting the loops, the contrivance is complete.

This is a very old and approved method.

In the initial (T) at the head of this section we give also [Page 41]

another suggestion for a noose trap. The cross pieces are tacked to the top of the upright, and a noose suspended from each end,--the bait adjusted as there seen.

We have mentioned horse-hair nooses as being desirable, and they are commonly used; but, as it takes considerable time to make them, and the wire answering the purpose fully as well, we rather recommend the wire in preference. We will give a few simple directions, however, for the making of the horse-hair nooses, in case our readers might desire to use them instead.

Select long, stout hairs from the tail of any horse, (we would recommend that it be a good tempered horse), take one of the hairs and double it in the middle, hold the double between the thumb and fore-finger of the left hand, letting the two ends hang from the under side of the thumb, and keeping the hairs between the thumb and finger, about a third of an inch apart. Now proceed to twist the two hairs toward the end of the finger, letting them twist together as the loop emerges on the upper side of the thumb.

A little practice will overcome what at first seems very difficult.

To keep the two hairs between the fingers at the right distance of separation, and at the same time to twist them and draw the loop from between the fingers as they _are_ twisted, seems quite a complicated operation; and so it will be found at first. But when once mastered by practice, the twisting of five nooses a minute will be an easy matter. When the entire length of the hairs are twisted, the ends should be cut off even and then pa.s.sed through the small loop at the folded end. The noose is then ready to be fastened to the main string of support. Horse-hair nooses are commonly used in nearly all snares as they are always to be had, and possess considerable strength. The fine bra.s.s wire is also extensively used, and the writer rather prefers it. It is very strong and slips easily, besides doing away with the trouble of twisting the loops, which to some might be a very difficult and tedious operation. We recommend the wire, and shall allude to it chiefly in the future, although the horse-hair may be subst.i.tuted whenever desired.

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There is another modification of the foregoing quail-traps very commonly utilized by professional trappers of many countries. A low hedge is constructed, often hundreds of feet in length small openings are left here and there, in which the nooses are placed, as in the accompanying engraving. The bait is strewn around on both sides of the hedge, and the grouse or other game, on its discovery, are almost sure to become entangled [Page 42]

sooner or later. It is a well-known fact about these birds, that they will always seek to pa.s.s _under_ an object which comes in their way rather than fly over it; and although the hedge of this trap is only a foot or more in height, the birds will almost invariably run about until they find an opening, in preference to flying over it.

It is owing to this peculiarity of habit that they are so easily taken by this method. Our ill.u.s.tration gives only a very short section of hedge; it may be extended to any length. The writer's experience with the hedge nooses has been very satisfactory, although never using a length greater than ten feet. It is well to set the hedge in the locality where quails or partridges are _known_ to run. And in setting, it is always desirable to build the hedge so that it will stretch over some open ground, and connect with two trees or bushes. Cedar boughs are excellent for the purpose, but any close brushwood will answer very well. Strew the ground with corn, oats and the like. A small quant.i.ty only is necessary.

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There is another noose trap commonly used abroad, and very little known here. It is a _tree_ trap, and goes by the name of the "triangle snare." It is not designed for the capture of any _particular_ kind of bird, although it often will secure fine and rare specimens.

It consists of a sapling of wood, bent and tied in the form of a triangle, as shown in our ill.u.s.tration. This may be of any size, depending altogether on the bird the young trapper fancies to secure.

A noose should be suspended in the triangle from its longest point.

This noose should hang as indicated in our ill.u.s.tration, falling low enough to leave a s.p.a.ce of an inch or so below it at the bottom of the triangle. The bait, consisting of a piece of an apple, a berry, insect, or piece of [Page 43]

meat, according to the wish of the trapper, should then be suspended in the centre of the noose, after which the contrivance should be hung in some tree to await events. As they are so easily made and can be carried with so little trouble, it is an excellent plan to set out with a dozen or so, hanging them all in different parts of the woods; as, under circ.u.mstances of so many being set, scarcely a day will pa.s.s in which the trapper will not be rewarded by some one of the snares. The writer once knew of a case where a hawk was captured by one of these simple devices. In this case it had been set expressly, and the wire was extra strong. This trap, we believe, is quite common in parts of Germany, but, as far as we know, has not been utilized to any great extent in our country.

We recommend it with great confidence.

For the capture of woodchucks, muskrats and house-rats, the wire noose may also be adapted to good purpose. Many a woodchuck has been secured by the aid of this simple invention. It is only necessary to arrange the loop in the opening of the burrow, securing the wire to a stout stick, firmly driven into the ground. If properly "set"

the animal, on emerging from the burrow, will become entangled, and by his efforts to disengage himself will only tighten the loop and thus render escape impossible. For rats, the noose should be attached to a nail, and the wire similarly arranged over the hole.

The slipping-noose thus simply adapted becomes a most effective trap, and is always sure to hold its victim when once within its grasp, as every struggle only tends to draw the noose tighter. They are quick in their action, and produce death without much pain, and for this reason are to be commended.

THE "TWITCH-UP."

Our next example of the snare, we imagine, is one which all our boy-readers will immediately recognize; for it would certainly seem that any country boy who does not know the "Twitch-up" must be far behind the times, and live in a locality where there are no rabbits, quail, or even boys, besides himself, to suggest it.

This snare is a _universal favorite_ among nearly all country boys, and our ill.u.s.tration will immediately bring it to mind. Its name, "The Twitch-up," conveys perfectly its method of working. Our ill.u.s.tration represents the trap as it appears when set. It has many varieties, of which we will select the best. They may be divided into two cla.s.ses--those with upright nooses, and those in which [Page 44]

the noose is spread on the ground, the latter of which are commonly called "ground snares." We will give our attention first to the "upright" style. These are rather ent.i.tled to preference on account of the harmless death which they inflict, invariably catching by the neck. Whereas the ground nooses as frequently lift their prey into the air by their feet, and thus prolong their suffering.

Twitch-ups are the most successful and sure of any snares, and that, too, without being complicated. The writer, in his younger days, was quite an expert in trapping, and he can truthfully say that he found more enjoyment and had better success with these than with any other kinds of traps he employed.

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