American Pie_ My Search For The Perfect Pizza Part 3

PIZZA CON ACCIUGHE (WITH ANCHOVIES) (WITH ANCHOVIES).

Most pizzaioli pizzaioli put the anchovies on top of this cla.s.sic pizza just before it goes into the oven. Others lay them on top of the finished pizza. However, I am in love with the technique I learned at Santarpio's in Boston, where they turn out a mean neo-Neapolitan anchovy pizza. The put the anchovies on top of this cla.s.sic pizza just before it goes into the oven. Others lay them on top of the finished pizza. However, I am in love with the technique I learned at Santarpio's in Boston, where they turn out a mean neo-Neapolitan anchovy pizza. The pizzaioli pizzaioli at Santarpio's put the anchovies under the cheese, where they soften and practically melt into the pie. I prefer low-moisture mozzarella cheese on this pizza, but you can subst.i.tute fresh mozzarella at Santarpio's put the anchovies under the cheese, where they soften and practically melt into the pie. I prefer low-moisture mozzarella cheese on this pizza, but you can subst.i.tute fresh mozzarella (fior di latte) (fior di latte).Makes two 9-inch pizzas2 Napoletana Napoletana Pizza Dough Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s, 6 ounces each b.a.l.l.s, 6 ounces eachUnbleached all-purpose flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel cup Crushed Tomato Sauce Crushed Tomato Sauce4 to 6 anchovy fillets6 ounces full-fat low-moisture mozzarella cheese, coa.r.s.ely grated2 cloves garlic, slivered or thinly sliced2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil teaspoon dried oregano or 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano leaves1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour. Make 1 pizza at a time unless your peel and oven can accommodate both pizzas. Shape the dough ball on a counter on a counter, and transfer it to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour.2. Spread cup of the tomato sauce over the surface of the dough, leaving a -inch border uncovered. Cut 2 or 3 anchovy fillets into a total of 6 or 9 lengthwise strips. Lay them on the surface of the dough like spokes on a wheel. Cover the surface with half of the cheese, then sprinkle half of the garlic evenly over the top. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over the surface, spiraling it out from the center. Sprinkle half of the oregano over the top.3. Carefully slide the pizza from the peel onto the baking stone. It should take 7 to 9 minutes to bake. When it is done, the crust should be puffy and slightly charred on the edge and thinner in the center. The underside of the crust should be brown and crisp, not white and soft. If the underside is not ready when the top is finished, lower the shelf for the next pizza.4. Remove the finished pizza from the oven and serve it whole (usually 1 pizza per person), or let it cool for about 2 minutes before slicing and serving. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza.

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PIZZA QUATTRO FORMAGGI.

Adding more types of cheese to a pizza does not always improve it. Sometimes the flavors cancel out one another or get muddled. American pizzerias often successfully blend mozzarella and Cheddar-style cheeses to make a tasty and distinctive pizza, but pizza quattro formaggi pizza quattro formaggi is designed to showcase four cheeses of different characteristics, usually without tomato (though slices of fresh tomato are not out of the question). The cla.s.sic types are fresh is designed to showcase four cheeses of different characteristics, usually without tomato (though slices of fresh tomato are not out of the question). The cla.s.sic types are fresh (fior di latte) (fior di latte) or processed mozzarella; blue-veined cheese, often Gorgonzola; a dry aged cheese like Parmigiano-Reggiano or pecorino Romano; and a fresh, creamy cheese such as or processed mozzarella; blue-veined cheese, often Gorgonzola; a dry aged cheese like Parmigiano-Reggiano or pecorino Romano; and a fresh, creamy cheese such as robiola robiola, stracchino stracchino, crescenza crescenza, or even mascarpone.Makes two 9-inch pizzas2 Napoletana Napoletana Pizza Dough Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s, 6 ounces each b.a.l.l.s, 6 ounces eachUnbleached all-purpose flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel5 ounces fresh or full-fat low-moisture mozzarella cheese, shredded or coa.r.s.ely grated3 ounces blue cheese (see recipe introduction)3 ounces fresh, creamy cheese (see recipe introduction)2 tablespoons freshly grated dry aged cheese (see recipe introduction)1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour. Make 1 pizza at a time unless your peel and oven can accommodate both pizzas. Shape the dough ball on a counter on a counter, and transfer it to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour.2. Sprinkle half of the mozzarella evenly over the surface of the dough. Dot the top evenly with half of the blue cheese and then repeat with half of the creamy cheese.3. Carefully slide the pizza from the peel onto the baking stone. It should take 7 to 9 minutes to bake. When it is done, the crust should be puffy and slightly charred on the edge and thinner in the center, and the cheese should be bubbling and golden. The underside of the crust should be brown and crisp, not white and soft. If the underside is not ready when the top is finished, lower the shelf for the next pizza.4. Remove the finished pizza from the oven and sprinkle 1 tablespoon of the grated aged cheese over the top. Serve the pizza whole (usually 1 pizza per person), or let it cool for about 2 minutes before slicing and serving. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza.

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PIZZA VESUVIO.

This is my version of the wonderful pizza I ate at Antica Pizzeria dell'Arte in Florence. It is expensive to make because of the truffle paste, but it is a great conversation piece when you are throwing a fancy pizza party. Of course, it is a tribute to Vesuvius, the still-active volcano that dominates the Naples horizon but has never actually harmed the city because of favorable Mediterranean winds (nearby Pompeii was not so fortunate). You can buy the truffle paste, either black or white, at a gourmet-products store. It doesn't pack the wallop of freshly grated truffle (which you are free to use if you can afford it), but it still delivers the indescribably complex earthiness of the prized fungus. The best cheese to use for this pizza is true mozzarella di bufala. mozzarella di bufala. However, fresh cow's milk mozzarella is easier to find and less expensive, and if it is all you have, it will work fine. You can also use full-fat low-moisture mozzarella, but you will need to grate it and spread it in a 4 -inch circle in the center of the dough. The flavor and texture will be markedly different, yet still wonderful, with this type of cheese. However, fresh cow's milk mozzarella is easier to find and less expensive, and if it is all you have, it will work fine. You can also use full-fat low-moisture mozzarella, but you will need to grate it and spread it in a 4 -inch circle in the center of the dough. The flavor and texture will be markedly different, yet still wonderful, with this type of cheese.Makes one 9-inch pizza2 Napoletana Napoletana Pizza Dough Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s, 6 ounces each b.a.l.l.s, 6 ounces eachUnbleached all-purpose flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel cup chopped, peeled tomatoes or quartered cherry tomatoes3 ounces mozzarella di bufala mozzarella di bufala1 heaping tablespoon white or black truffle paste2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oilFreshly ground black pepper1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour. Shape 1 dough ball on a counter on a counter, and transfer it to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour. Divide the second dough ball into 5 equal pieces. Lightly flour the counter and your hands. Using your palms and working with 1 dough piece at a time, roll the piece back and forth on the floured surface until it forms a strand about 9 inches long. If it springs back, let it relax for 3 minutes and roll again. Set the 5 strands aside.2. Sprinkle the tomato pieces over the surface of the dough. Form the mozzarella into a soft ball, and then flatten it into a thick disk. Place it in the center of the dough. Spread or dollop the truffle paste over the top of the cheese. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over the truffle-topped cheese ball, and then sprinkle the pepper evenly over the pizza.3. Lay the dough strands on top of the pizza, crossing them so that they divide the pizza into pielike wedges. The ends of the strands should extend just to the edge, but they do not need to be crimped onto it. Brush the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil over the dough strands.4. Carefully slide the pizza from the peel onto the baking stone. It should take 12 to 15 minutes to bake. When it is done, the top crust should have just begun turning a light gold and the bottom crust should be crisp and lightly charred.5. Remove the finished pizza from the oven and let it cool for about 3 minutes before serving. Eat with a knife and fork.

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PIZZA CON RUCOLA.

One of my favorite pizza garnishes is arugula, known as rocket in England, as roquette roquette in France, and as both in France, and as both rucola rucola and and arugula arugula in Italy. Everywhere Susan and I went in Italy we saw beautiful pizzas covered with bright green, shredded leaves of arugula. Sometimes it wilted on the pizza surface and other times it stayed fresh and crisp. As much as I love arugula, I often thought it was added with too heavy a hand. But the flavor of the peppery leaves does grow on you, and by the time we left Italy, I was a full convert. However, I still think it is best when used as a garnish, rather than as a primary topping, and it is especially good sprinkled on top of prosciutto or other cured-meat-topped pizzas fresh out of the oven. The slightly bitter, radishlike flavor of arugula complements the sweet and spicy flavors in other ingredients. In addition to the variations provided below, arugula is also a great complement to toppings like in Italy. Everywhere Susan and I went in Italy we saw beautiful pizzas covered with bright green, shredded leaves of arugula. Sometimes it wilted on the pizza surface and other times it stayed fresh and crisp. As much as I love arugula, I often thought it was added with too heavy a hand. But the flavor of the peppery leaves does grow on you, and by the time we left Italy, I was a full convert. However, I still think it is best when used as a garnish, rather than as a primary topping, and it is especially good sprinkled on top of prosciutto or other cured-meat-topped pizzas fresh out of the oven. The slightly bitter, radishlike flavor of arugula complements the sweet and spicy flavors in other ingredients. In addition to the variations provided below, arugula is also a great complement to toppings like Sauteed Mushrooms Sauteed Mushrooms and and White Sauce White Sauce.Makes two 9-inch pizzas2 Napoletana Napoletana Pizza Dough Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s, 6 ounces each b.a.l.l.s, 6 ounces eachUnbleached all-purpose flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel3 ounces full-fat low-moisture or smoked mozzarella cheese, shredded or coa.r.s.ely grated2 tomatoes, cut into -inch-thick slices, or 12 cherry tomatoes, quartered (optional) cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, pecorino Romano, Asiago, or other dry aged cheese5 large arugula leaves, or to taste1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour. Make 1 pizza at a time unless your peel and oven can accommodate both pizzas. Shape the dough ball on a counter on a counter, and transfer it to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour.2. Spread half of the mozzarella over the surface of the dough. Distribute half of the tomatoes over the cheese. Sprinkle half of the grated aged cheese over the top.3. Carefully slide the pizza from the peel onto the baking stone. It should take 7 to 9 minutes to bake. When it is done, the crust should be puffy and slightly charred on the edge and thinner in the center, and the cheese should be golden. The underside of the crust should be brown and crisp, not white and soft. If the underside is not ready when the top is finished, lower the shelf for the next pizza.4. While the pizza is baking, stack the arugula leaves, roll them up lengthwise, and cut thinly crosswise to create shreds (known as a chiffonade cut). Remove the finished pizza from the oven and immediately sprinkle half of the arugula over the top. Let the pizza cool for about 3 minutes so that the arugula can begin to wilt, then serve it whole (usually 1 pizza per person) or in slices. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza.

Prosciutto Variation Lay a thin slice of prosciutto on the pizza before it goes in the oven, in which case it will become very crisp, or lay the slice on top of the arugula after the pizza is baked.

Mussel Variation Just before a.s.sembling the pizza, place 8 mussels, well scrubbed, and cup water in a saucepan, cover, place over medium heat, and cook for about 3 minutes, or until the mussels open. Remove from the heat and remove the mussels from the pan. When the mussels are cool enough to handle, remove them from their sh.e.l.ls, discarding any that failed to open. Reserve half of the sh.e.l.ls for serving. In a small frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over low heat. Add 1 clove garlic, minced, and then stir in the mussels (the oil should be warm, not hot) until well coated with the oil and garlic. Season with a dusting of freshly ground black pepper and a touch of coa.r.s.e sea salt or kosher salt. When the finished pizza is removed from the oven, garnish it lightly with shredded arugula (or basil, if you prefer). Place the 8 reserved sh.e.l.ls on the pizza, and put 1 mussel in each sh.e.l.l. If any oil remains in the frying pan, pour it over the pizza. Clams or a combination of mussels and clams can be prepared the same way.

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PIZZA ROSA AL BIANCO.

This is my take on the pizza that Chris Bianco said is the metaphor within the metaphor, the pizza that defines him more than any other. Though this is technically a white pizza, Chris named it Rosa for the red torpedo onions on top, with a nod to the fresh rosemary. It is not unlike the Pizza alla Pugliese Pizza alla Pugliese, with its use of cheese and onions, but Chris takes it in a slightly different direction. The strength of the Parmigiano-Reggiano and the other intensely flavored ingredients speak directly to the intensity of Chris's personality and commitment to his craft.If you do not have pistachio nuts, you can subst.i.tute cup pine nuts. You can also use another type of grated aged cheese, such as pecorino Romano, Asiago, or even dry Jack. Should you do that, I know what Chris would say, "You could do that, and it still would taste good, but then it would no longer be the metaphor of me." Perhaps it will be the metaphor of you!Makes two 9-inch pizzas2 Napoletana Napoletana Pizza Dough Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s, 6 ounces each b.a.l.l.s, 6 ounces eachUnbleached all-purpose flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel1 red torpedo onion, thinly sliced1 cups freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese24 pistachio nuts, very coa.r.s.ely chopped2 teaspoons fresh rosemary leaves2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour. Make 1 pizza at a time unless your peel and oven can accommodate both pizzas. Shape the dough ball on a counter on a counter, and transfer it to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour.2. Spread half of the onion slices over the surface of the dough. Sprinkle half of the cheese over the onion slices, then scatter half each of the nuts and the rosemary over the top. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over the top, spiraling it out from the center.3. Carefully slide the pizza from the peel onto the baking stone. It should take 7 to 9 minutes to bake. When it is done, the crust should be puffy and slightly charred on the edge and thinner in the center, and the cheese should be golden. The underside of the crust should be brown and crisp, not white and soft. If the underside is not ready when the top is finished, lower the shelf for the next pizza.4. Remove the finished pizza from the oven and serve it whole (usually 1 pizza per person), or let it cool for about 2 minutes before slicing and serving. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza.

FIRST-GENERATION NEO-NEAPOLITAN PIZZA.

There are two archetypes in the first-generation family of neo-Neapolitan pizzas: regular sauce and mozzarella (sauce and mutz from this point on) and white pizza with clams. Of course, many other pizzas, many topping variations, and many types of white pizza without clams are out there, but these are the two without which the world would be a less joyful place. Every red pizza, no matter the toppings on it, is pretty much a descendant of the sauce and mutz, so let's start with it.

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SAUCE AND MUTZ PIZZA.

Here is a recipe for making a sauce and mutz pizza in the Sally's, Frank Pepe's, Totonno's, Tacconelli's, John's, Grimaldi's, and DiFara's tradition. A selection of variations follow.There are two philosophies regarding the order in which the toppings are applied. While most pizzerias lay down the sauce first and then the cheese, as do I, there is good reason (and some precedent) to reverse that order and lay all the mozzarella down first, then carefully ladle on the sauce and top with a small sprinkle of grated aged cheese. When the mutz goes down first, it will melt but not caramelize, and the sauce, because it is exposed to the hot air, will evaporate somewhat and intensify. The result is almost lavalike, with an intense tomato flavor burst and nice molten cheese underneath. When the sauce goes down first and the cheese is placed on top, the mutz caramelizes to a rich gold and its flavor intensifies. It will not be as molten as when it is underneath, however. Each method makes a delicious pizza, so you will want to try them both and decide which works best in your oven and to your taste.Makes two 12-inch pizzas2 Neo-Neapolitan Pizza Dough Neo-Neapolitan Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s, 10 ounces each b.a.l.l.s, 10 ounces eachUnbleached high-gluten or bread flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel6 ounces full-fat low-moisture mozzarella cheese, coa.r.s.ely grated or shredded cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, pecorino Romano, Asiago, or other dry aged cheese2 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese (fior di latte) (fior di latte), sliced or coa.r.s.ely shredded1 cup Crushed Tomato Sauce Crushed Tomato Sauce1 teaspoon dried or chopped fresh oregano8 fresh basil leaves1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour. Make 1 pizza at a time unless your peel and oven can accommodate both pizzas. Shape the dough ball using the toss-and-spin method toss-and-spin method, stretching it to a diameter of about 12 inches. The dough should be very thin, about inch thick, nearly translucent, and slightly thicker toward the edge. Transfer the dough to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour.2. In a bowl, stir together the 3 cheeses. Spread cup of the tomato sauce over the surface of the dough, leaving a -inch border uncovered. Distribute half of the cheese blend evenly over the pizza. Sprinkle half of the oregano over the cheese.3. Carefully slide the pizza from the peel onto the baking stone. It should take 10 to 12 minutes to bake. When it is done, the crust should be crisp and slightly charred on the edge and the cheese should be fully melted and just beginning to caramelize to a rich gold. The underside of the crust should be brown and crisp, not white and soft. If the underside is not ready when the top is finished, lower the shelf for the next pizza.4. While the pizza is baking, stack the basil leaves, roll them up lengthwise, and cut thinly crosswise to create shreds (known as a chiffonade cut). Remove the finished pizza from the oven and immediately sprinkle half of the basil over the top. Let the pizza cool for about 3 minutes before slicing and serving. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza.

Sauce and Mutz Garnish and Topping Options Pizzerias have come up with dozens of ways to embellish a sauce and mutz pizza. Here are some ideas and tips to make cla.s.sic first-generation neo-Neapolitan pizza variations:Fresh Greens: Bright greens such as arugula, Italian parsley, and spinach can be subst.i.tuted for the fresh basil; use the same chiffonade cut described for the basil. Bright greens such as arugula, Italian parsley, and spinach can be subst.i.tuted for the fresh basil; use the same chiffonade cut described for the basil.Anchovies: Place anchovy fillets under the cheese, not on top. The flavor will melt into the pizza, and they will have a creamy texture, rather than be tough and chewy. Place anchovy fillets under the cheese, not on top. The flavor will melt into the pizza, and they will have a creamy texture, rather than be tough and chewy.Pepperoni and other Cured Meats: If you like your pizza oily, slice the pepperoni or other meat and place the pieces on top. But to intensify flavor and reduce greasiness, grill, panfry, or boil the slices in advance to melt out much of the fat. The meat will still crisp up on top of the pizza, but it will not release any fat. If you don't want it to be crisp, bake it under the mutz. If you like your pizza oily, slice the pepperoni or other meat and place the pieces on top. But to intensify flavor and reduce greasiness, grill, panfry, or boil the slices in advance to melt out much of the fat. The meat will still crisp up on top of the pizza, but it will not release any fat. If you don't want it to be crisp, bake it under the mutz.Vegetables: Lightly saute bell peppers, onions, mushrooms, and other vegetables before you place them on top of the pizza. This will keep them from burning and being overly chewy. Raw vegetables should go under the mutz to prevent burning. Lightly saute bell peppers, onions, mushrooms, and other vegetables before you place them on top of the pizza. This will keep them from burning and being overly chewy. Raw vegetables should go under the mutz to prevent burning. Roasted Eggplant, Tomato, and Lemon Topping Roasted Eggplant, Tomato, and Lemon Topping and and Sweet-and-Sour Onion Marmalade Sweet-and-Sour Onion Marmalade are two good premade vegetable additions that can go on the top. are two good premade vegetable additions that can go on the top.Garlic oil: Using garlic-infused oil imparts more garlic taste than putting raw garlic on the pizza before it bakes. You can either use the oil left over from making Using garlic-infused oil imparts more garlic taste than putting raw garlic on the pizza before it bakes. You can either use the oil left over from making caramelized garlic caramelized garlic, or press or mince 12 garlic cloves and add them to cup extra virgin olive oil that has been heated on the stove just to warm it up a bit, 100F to 110F. Cover and leave at room temperature for at least 1 hour to steep before using. Strain out some of the garlic from the oil, and sprinkle the strained garlic either under or over the mutz. Save the remaining garlic and oil to drizzle over the pizza after it comes out of the oven. Refrigerate any unused garlic oil; it will keep for up to 1 week. Raw garlic carries bacteria, which can lead to the growth of toxins if left out of the refrigerator for long stretches. Rather than replenish your oil when it runs low, make a fresh batch.Caramelized garlic cloves or puree: Place the whole cloves under the mutz, not on top. Pureed caramelized garlic can go on top of or under the cheese.Seafood: Toss uncooked shrimp, clams, and other seafood in Toss uncooked shrimp, clams, and other seafood in Herb Oil Herb Oil and bake them on top. You can also season cooked shrimp with the oil, but slip them under the mutz. and bake them on top. You can also season cooked shrimp with the oil, but slip them under the mutz.Fresh tomatoes: During tomato season, slice your best-tasting variety about inch thick, toss the slices in During tomato season, slice your best-tasting variety about inch thick, toss the slices in Herb Oil Herb Oil, and lay them on top of the pizza. They will have more eye appeal if garnished with chiffonade-cut fresh basil just after the pizza comes out of the oven.

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WHITE CLAM PIZZA.

Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana (aka Pepe's) in New Haven is generally credited with inventing this pizza. Pepe's clam topping is a family secret, and I never attempt to pry a recipe away from a reluctant creator, although I do try my best to emulate. The challenge is to see if I can do it as well. Here's how I make my clam pizza, in tribute to the flawless version made at Pepe's.When making this pizza, look for freshly shucked medium-sized whole clams, such as manila, cherrystone, or littlenecks. You can also shuck them yourself or steam them open. An easier method, however, is to use either canned whole baby clams or another canned product called c.o.c.ktail clams, which are large pieces of tender clam meat that can be used whole or cut in half. (With these canned products, just drain the clams well and save the juice for soups or to add to tomato-juice c.o.c.ktails. I like to drink it with a shot of Tabasco.) I do not suggest using chopped clams, even fresh ones, unless that is all you can find, as they tend to toughen during the bake. They are mainly valve meat, and what you want is belly meat.Makes one 12-inch pizza cup Herb Oil Herb Oil1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice5 ounces clam meat (see recipe introduction)1 Neo-Neapolitan Pizza Dough Neo-Neapolitan Pizza Dough ball, 10 ounces ball, 10 ouncesUnbleached high-gluten or bread flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel cup shredded full-fat low-moisture mozzarella cheese cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Regianno, pecorino Romano, Asiago, or other dry aged cheese teaspoon salt, or to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour. While the oven is preheating, in a bowl, combine the Herb Oil and lemon juice and stir in the clam meat to coat. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 1 hour.2. Shape the dough ball using the toss-and-spin method toss-and-spin method, stretching it to a diameter of about 12 inches. The dough should be very thin, about inch thick, nearly translucent, and slightly thicker toward the edge. Transfer the dough to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour.3. In a bowl, stir together the 2 cheeses. Distribute the cheese blend evenly over the surface of the dough. Spread the clam and oil mixture evenly over the cheese. Sprinkle the surface evenly with the salt and pepper.4. Carefully slide the pizza from the peel onto the baking stone. It should take 10 to 12 minutes to bake. When it is done, the crust should be crisp and slightly charred on the edge and the cheese should be fully melted and just beginning to caramelize to a rich gold. The underside of the crust should be brown and crisp, not white and soft. If the underside is not ready when the top is finished, lower the shelf for the next pizza.5. Remove the finished pizza from the oven and immediately sprinkle the parsley over the top. Let the pizza cool for about 3 minutes before slicing and serving.

Seafood Variations You can make other seafood pizzas in the same way. Use raw squid, shrimp, bay scallops (whole), or sea scallops (cut in half), or any combination.

SECOND-GENERATION NEO-NEAPOLITAN PIZZA.

Unless you grew up in one of the major first-generation coal-oven pizza meccas like New York City or New Haven, your frame of reference for American pie is probably what I call second generation neo-Neapolitan pizza, whether from one of the many chains or independent by-the-slice pizzerias across the country. This is also the style through which pizza has achieved worldwide, cross-cultural popularity. These pizzas aren't always baked in a wood- or coal-fired oven; the doughs are often tenderized and enriched to accommodate our high-protein flours; and they are sometimes even fermented by sourdough wild yeast. But regardless of the mechanics, these pizzas satisfy the ma.s.ses simply by being crust with some variation of sauce and/or cheese on top. As with any food products, there are some pizzerias that achieve a higher degree of excellence than others, but when all is said and done, this is the category that established pizza as the new American pie.

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NEW YORKSTYLE SAUCE AND CHEESE PIZZA Any of the neo-Neapolitan toppings apply to this style of pizza, which is the foundation for the pizza-by-the slice pizzas now found across the country. One distinguis.h.i.+ng characteristic is that the dough is not stretched quite as thin as the first-generation neo-Neapolitan pizzas, and it is usually slightly underbaked when it first emerges from the oven, causing the slices to sag at the tip, or nose. The nose is then either flipped back onto the top of the slice, or two slices are stacked on top of each other and then folded down the middle to make something like a pizza sandwich. (Remember when Tony Manero, aka John Travolta, chomped away on his double-decker in an early scene in Sat.u.r.day Night Fever?) Sat.u.r.day Night Fever?). To crisp the crust, you can put a cooled slice back into the oven for a few minutes, just until the cheese melts again.The dough b.a.l.l.s for this pizza are scaled to about 12 ounces, slightly bigger than in the other dough recipes. They are stretched to the same diameter as the other neo-Neapolitans, however, to create the slightly thicker crust that is traditional for the style.Makes one 12-inch pizza1 New YorkStyle Pizza Dough New YorkStyle Pizza Dough ball, 12 ounces ball, 12 ouncesUnbleached high-gluten or bread flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel pound full-fat or low-fat low-moisture mozzarella cheese, coa.r.s.ely grated cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, pecorino Romano, Asiago, or other dry aged cheese cup coa.r.s.ely grated medium-sharp Cheddar or provolone cheese teaspoon dried oregano or teaspoon chopped fresh oregano leaves teaspoon dried basil or teaspoon chopped fresh basil leaves teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon granulated garlic powder (optional) cup All-Purpose All-Purpose Marinara Marinara Pizza Sauce Pizza Sauce1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour. Shape the dough ball using the toss-and-spin method toss-and-spin method, stretching it to a diameter of about 12 inches. The dough should be about inch thick and slightly thicker toward the edge. Transfer the dough to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour.2. In a bowl, stir together the 3 cheeses, oregano, basil, pepper, and garlic powder. Spread the tomato sauce evenly over the surface of the dough, leaving a -inch border uncovered. Spread the cheese mixture evenly over the pizza.3. Carefully slide the pizza from the peel onto the baking stone. It should take about 12 minutes to bake. When it is done, the crust should be crisp and slightly charred on the edge and the cheese should be fully melted and just beginning to caramelize to a rich gold. The underside of the crust should be brown and crisp, not white and soft.5. Remove the finished pizza from the oven and let it cool for about 3 minutes before slicing and serving. If you want a "snappier" crust, let the pizza cool completely, then return individual slices to the hot oven for recrisping.

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NEW YORKSTYLE WHITE PIZZA This is my version of a white pizza I had at Ray's in New York City (yes, on Prince Street, not any of the other Ray's). It uses a white sauce instead of tomato sauce, and is generously topped with seasoned ricotta cheese. For a more adventurous version, subst.i.tute an equal amount of any pesto any pesto for the ricotta cheese, or add streaks of pesto, to taste, on top of the ricotta topping. for the ricotta cheese, or add streaks of pesto, to taste, on top of the ricotta topping.Makes one 12-inch pizza1 New YorkStyle Pizza Dough New YorkStyle Pizza Dough ball, 12 ounces ball, 12 ouncesUnbleached high-gluten or bread flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel1 cups ricotta cheese teaspoon salt teaspoon dried or chopped fresh thyme teaspoon coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper cup White Sauce White Sauce1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour. Shape the dough ball using the toss-and-spin method toss-and-spin method, stretching it to a diameter of about 12 inches. The dough should be about inch thick and slightly thicker toward the edge. Transfer the dough to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour.2. In a bowl, stir together the ricotta, salt, thyme, and pepper. Spread the White Sauce over the surface of the dough, leaving a -inch border uncovered. Spread the ricotta mixture evenly over the White Sauce.3. Carefully slide the pizza from the peel onto the baking stone. It should take about 12 minutes to bake. When it is done, the crust should be crisp and slightly charred on the edge and the cheese should be bubbling and just beginning to caramelize. The underside of the crust should be brown and crisp, not white and soft.4. Remove the finished pizza from the oven and garnish it immediately with the parsley. Let the pizza cool for about 3 minutes before slicing and serving. If you want a "snappier" crust, let the pizza cool completely, then return individual slices to the hot oven for recrisping.

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PEPPERONI PIZZA AMERICANA PIZZA AMERICANA.

This recipe brings together the elements of the cla.s.sic Sat.u.r.day night home-delivered pizza in a different, yet familiar, way. There are now so many creative pizza variations available at any neighborhood pizzeria or from the freezer section of any supermarket that we have pretty much seen it all. Yet pepperoni still wins the pizza-topping popularity contests. Just as popular is a crust made from the cla.s.sic Americana Americana dough. Here, these two time-honored stars are given center stage, but the pepperoni is presented in a new way. Instead of slicing the pepperoni into thin disks, as most pizzerias do, I cut matchstick-sized strips. The thicker cut, along with the precooking step, brings out more flavor. dough. Here, these two time-honored stars are given center stage, but the pepperoni is presented in a new way. Instead of slicing the pepperoni into thin disks, as most pizzerias do, I cut matchstick-sized strips. The thicker cut, along with the precooking step, brings out more flavor.There are many types many types of Italian salami that are as good as or superior to pepperoni; feel free to subst.i.tute one of them, the spicier and more garlicky the better. of Italian salami that are as good as or superior to pepperoni; feel free to subst.i.tute one of them, the spicier and more garlicky the better.Makes two 10- to 12-inch pizzas1 tablespoon olive oil6 ounces pepperoni or favorite Italian salami, cut into matchstick strips4 cloves garlic, slivered2 Americana Americana Pizza Dough Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s, 10 ounces each b.a.l.l.s, 10 ounces eachUnbleached high-gluten or bread flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel1 cup coa.r.s.ely shredded full-fat low-moisture mozzarella or Monterey Jack cheese cup coa.r.s.ely shredded medium-sharp Cheddar, provolone, Swiss, or Gouda cheese cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, pecorino Romano, Asiago, or other dry aged cheese20 fresh basil leaves cup All-Purpose All-Purpose Marinara Marinara Pizza Sauce Pizza Sauce1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour.2. While the oven is heating, in a frying pan, combine the olive oil and pepperoni pieces over medium heat and saute for 4 to 5 minutes, or just until the pepperoni begins to crisp up. Add the garlic and cook for another 2 minutes, or until softened but not browned. Remove from the heat and pour the contents of the pan into a sieve or colander resting over a bowl. Set the pepperoni and garlic mixture aside. You can stir the oil collected in the bowl into the tomato sauce for additional flavor, or you can discard it.3. Make 1 pizza at a time unless your peel and oven can accommodate both pizzas. Shape the dough ball using the toss-and-spin method toss-and-spin method, stretching it to a diameter of 10 or 12 inches and slightly thicker toward the edge. A 12-inch diameter yields a thinner, crispier crust, while a 10-inch diameter is a little thicker and more breadlike. The choice is yours. Transfer the dough to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour.4. In a bowl, stir together the 3 cheeses. Stack 5 of the basil leaves, roll them up lengthwise, and cut thinly crosswise to create shreds (known as a chiffonade cut). Stir the basil shreds into the cheese mixture. Spread half of the sauce over the surface of the dough, leaving a -inch border uncovered. Scatter half of the crisped pepperoni strips evenly over the surface. Then distribute half of the cheese mixture over the pepperoni, covering the surface evenly.5. Carefully slide the pizza from the peel onto the baking stone. It should take 10 to 12 minutes to bake. When it is done, the crust should be crisp and slightly charred on the edge and the cheese should be fully melted and just beginning to caramelize to a rich gold. The underside of the crust should be brown and crisp, not white and soft. If the underside is not ready when the top is finished, lower the shelf for the next pizza.6. While the pizza is baking, stack 5 more basil leaves and cut them in the same manner. Remove the finished pizza from the oven and immediately sprinkle the basil over the top. Let the pizza cool for about 3 minutes before slicing and serving. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza.

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THREE CHEESE PIZZA WITH ROASTED EGGPLANT, TOMATO, AND LEMON.

A sourdough crust has its own charm and, for all practical purposes, it can be made with any of the topping variations found on other pizzas. That said, the Cheese Board in Berkeley, California, has sourdough pizza down to an art form, and the topping style there is very specific-always vegetarian, unsauced, and with an emphasis on the bold flavors of the cheeses they use. The following is my own version of a Berkeley-style sourdough pizza, inspired by the radical creativity I found on Shattuck Avenue during my visits to the Cheese Board. Use it as a springboard to create your own variations.Makes two 10-inch pizzas2 Sourdough Pizza Dough Sourdough Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s, 10 ounces each b.a.l.l.s, 10 ounces eachUnbleached high-gluten or bread flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel1 cup shredded Gruyere, Gouda, Bel Paese, or other favorite good melting cheese2 cups Roasted Eggplant, Tomato, and Lemon Topping Roasted Eggplant, Tomato, and Lemon Topping cup crumbled feta cheese cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, pecorino Romano, Asiago, or other dry aged cheese1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour. Make 1 pizza at a time unless your peel and oven can accommodate both pizzas. Shape each dough ball using the toss-and-spin method toss-and-spin method, stretching it to a diameter of about 10 inches. If the dough begins to resist extension and springs back, lay it on a lightly floured counter, cover it with a kitchen towel or plastic wrap, and move on to the other ball; after a 5-minute rest, the dough should be relaxed enough to continue shaping. Each disk should be about 10 inches in diameter and inch thick. Transfer one to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour.2. Distribute half of the shredded cheese over the surface of the dough. Spread half of the Roasted Eggplant, Tomato, and Lemon topping over the pizza. Sprinkle half each of the feta and the grated aged cheese over the top.3. Carefully slide the pizza from the peel onto the baking stone. It should take 9 to 11 minutes to bake. When it is done, the crust should be puffy and slightly charred on the edge and thinner in the center, the cheese will be bubbling, and the other ingredients will be golden brown. The underside of the crust should be brown and crisp, not white and soft. If the underside is not ready when the top is finished, lower the shelf for the next pizza.4. Remove the finished pizza from the oven and let it cool for about 3 minutes before slicing and serving. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza.

THIRD-GENERATION NEO-NEAPOLITAN PIZZA.

The pogacha pogacha I discovered in Bellevue, Was.h.i.+ngton, which its makers described as a Croatian pizza, was actually a creative Pacific Northwest version of what people in most of the rest of the country call "California pizza." In other words, when the pizzas get fancy, when the toppings take a bit of advance preparation, even when you put a Croatian name to it, California gets the credit or the blame. Whether deserved or not, I discovered in Bellevue, Was.h.i.+ngton, which its makers described as a Croatian pizza, was actually a creative Pacific Northwest version of what people in most of the rest of the country call "California pizza." In other words, when the pizzas get fancy, when the toppings take a bit of advance preparation, even when you put a Croatian name to it, California gets the credit or the blame. Whether deserved or not, California-style California-style has become the common term for the third generation of neo-Neapolitan pizza in America. While many purists think this genre is a little over the top, it provides a framework and precedent for letting our imaginations run free. When the principles of balance, unity, focus, and flow are honored, you will discover California-style pizza flavors that are quite extraordinary. has become the common term for the third generation of neo-Neapolitan pizza in America. While many purists think this genre is a little over the top, it provides a framework and precedent for letting our imaginations run free. When the principles of balance, unity, focus, and flow are honored, you will discover California-style pizza flavors that are quite extraordinary.

The following recipes are some of my own attempts to break into the realm of the extraordinary. They are inspired by visits to the newest generation of gourmet pizzerias around the country and, of course, in California. I am including only a handful of topping ideas, ones that I particularly like, in the hope that they will give you ideas and inspiration for creating your own California pizzas. If you find that you like this push-the-envelope approach to pizza making, I recommend The California Pizza Kitchen Cookbook The California Pizza Kitchen Cookbook, by Larry Flax and Rick Rosenfield, as well as the books of James McNair and Wolfgang Puck.

Even though I am calling these pizzas third generation neo-Neapolitan, which means that you can make them with any type of dough, I believe that the Napoletana Napoletana dough, made with a little whole-grain flour, is the best choice, albeit with two exceptions, my smoked salmon and Greek salad pizzas. This use represents the neo-Neapolitan concept coming full circle, back to its dough, made with a little whole-grain flour, is the best choice, albeit with two exceptions, my smoked salmon and Greek salad pizzas. This use represents the neo-Neapolitan concept coming full circle, back to its Napoletana Napoletana roots, yet with a distinctly American twist. If, however, you prefer the flavor, texture, or ease of handling of one of the other doughs, use it instead. roots, yet with a distinctly American twist. If, however, you prefer the flavor, texture, or ease of handling of one of the other doughs, use it instead.

If you decide to create your own toppings for a Napoletana Napoletana crust, remember that the dough can be tricky to handle because of the low gluten content, so it is important to limit the quant.i.ty of toppings. In other words, the less-is-more rule applies. Use ingredient components that have great flavor bursts and deliver them on a crust that makes the entire experience truly memorable. That, in a nutsh.e.l.l, is the essence of California-style gourmet pizza. crust, remember that the dough can be tricky to handle because of the low gluten content, so it is important to limit the quant.i.ty of toppings. In other words, the less-is-more rule applies. Use ingredient components that have great flavor bursts and deliver them on a crust that makes the entire experience truly memorable. That, in a nutsh.e.l.l, is the essence of California-style gourmet pizza.

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CANDIED FIGS, PECANS, ANDOUILLE, AND GOAT CHEESE PIZZA.

Makes two 9-inch pizzas cup water cup sugar8 ripe figs, quartered through stem end cup pecan or walnut halves3 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil pound andouille sausage or any other favorite smoked sausage, cut into -inch-thick slices2 Napoletana Napoletana Pizza Dough Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s made with whole-grain variation, 6 ounces each b.a.l.l.s made with whole-grain variation, 6 ounces eachUnbleached all-purpose flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel pound fresh goat cheese, crumbledSalt and freshly ground black pepper1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour.2. While the oven is heating, in a saucepan, bring the water and sugar to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for about 3 minutes, or until the liquid is reduced to a medium-thick syrupy consistency. Remove from the heat and drop in the figs and the pecans. Toss to coat with the syrup and set aside to cool completely.3. In a frying pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium heat. Add the sausage slices and saute for about 5 minutes, or until the slices begin to release their fat and just begin to brown or crisp on the edges. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the sausage slices to a paper towel to drain.4. Make 1 pizza at a time unless your peel and oven can accommodate both pizzas. Shape the dough ball on a counter on a counter, and transfer it to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour.5. Gently brush the surface of the dough with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Distribute half of the goat cheese evenly over the surface. Top evenly with half of the sausage slices. Then spread half of the fig-pecan mixture over the top.6. Carefully slide the pizza from the peel onto the baking stone. It should take 7 to 9 minutes to bake. When it is done, the crust should be puffy and slightly charred on the edge and thinner in the center, the cheese will be bubbling, and the other ingredients will be golden brown. The underside of the crust should be brown and crisp, not white and soft. If the underside is not ready when the top is finished, lower the shelf for the next pizza.7. Remove the finished pizza from the oven and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve the pizza whole (usually 1 pizza per person), or let it cool for about 2 minutes before slicing and serving. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza.

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ONION MARMALADE, WALNUTS, AND BLUE CHEESE PIZZA.

Makes two 9-inch pizzas2 Napoletana Napoletana Pizza Dough Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s made with whole-grain variation, 6 ounces each b.a.l.l.s made with whole-grain variation, 6 ounces eachUnbleached all-purpose flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel1 cup Sweet-and-Sour Onion Marmalade Sweet-and-Sour Onion Marmalade cup coa.r.s.ely chopped walnuts pound Danish blue or other firm blue cheese, crumbled1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour. Make 1 pizza at a time unless your peel and oven can accommodate both pizzas. Shape the dough ball on a counter on a counter, and transfer it to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour.2. Spread half of the onion marmalade over the surface of the dough. Top evenly with half of the walnuts and then half of the blue cheese.3. Carefully slide the pizza from the peel onto the baking stone. It should take 7 to 9 minutes to bake. When it is done, the crust should be puffy and slightly charred on the edge and thinner in the center, and the cheese will be melted but not caramelized. The underside of the crust should be brown and crisp, not white and soft. If the underside is not ready when the top is finished, lower the shelf for the next pizza.4. Remove the finished pizza from the oven and serve it whole (usually 1 pizza per person), or let it cool for about 2 minutes before slicing and serving. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza.

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SMOKED EGGPLANT PIZZA.

Makes two 9-inch pizzas2 Napoletana Napoletana Pizza Dough Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s made with whole-grain variation, 6 ounces each b.a.l.l.s made with whole-grain variation, 6 ounces eachUnbleached all-purpose flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel cup Smoked Eggplant Puree Smoked Eggplant Puree or store-bought baba ghanouj or eggplant salad or store-bought baba ghanouj or eggplant salad1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, pecorino Romano, Asiago, or other dry aged cheese2 plum tomatoes, cut into -inch-thick slices cup Herb Oil Herb Oil1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour. Make 1 pizza at a time unless your peel and oven can accommodate both pizzas. Shape the dough ball on a counter on a counter, and transfer it to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour.2. Spread cup of the eggplant Puree over the surface of the dough, leaving a -inch border uncovered. Sprinkle half of the grated cheese over the eggplant. Dip the slices from 1 tomato into the Herb Oil and fan them over the surface of the pizza.3. Carefully slide the pizza from the peel onto the baking stone. It should take 7 to 9 minutes to bake. When it is done, the crust should be puffy and slightly charred on the edge and thinner in the center, and the cheese will be golden brown. The underside of the crust should be brown and crisp, not white and soft. If the underside is not ready when the top is finished, lower the shelf for the next pizza.4. Remove the finished pizza from the oven and drizzle some of the Herb Oil over the surface, spiraling it out from the center. Serve the pizza whole (usually 1 pizza per person), or let it cool for about 2 minutes before slicing and serving. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza.

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CREAM CHEESE AND CRAB PIZZA.

Makes two 9-inch pizzas2 Napoletana Napoletana Pizza Dough Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s made with whole-grain variation, 6 ounces each b.a.l.l.s made with whole-grain variation, 6 ounces eachUnbleached all-purpose flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel1 cup Crab and Cream Cheese Topping Crab and Cream Cheese Topping2 tablespoons capers1 onion, any kind, cut into thin stripsTabasco or other hot-pepper sauce8 fresh chives, snipped with scissors into small bits1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour. Make 1 pizza at a time unless your peel and oven can accommodate both pizzas. Shape the dough ball on a counter on a counter, and transfer it to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour.2. Spread cup of the crab topping over the surface of the dough. Distribute 1 tablespoon of the capers evenly over the surface. Top with half of the onion strips.3. Carefully slide the pizza from the peel onto the baking stone. It should take 7 to 9 minutes to bake. When it is done, the crust should be puffy and slightly charred on the edge and thinner in the center, and the topping will be bubbling and molten. The underside of the crust should be brown and crisp, not white and soft. If the underside is not ready when the top is finished, lower the shelf for the next pizza.4. Remove the finished pizza from the oven and immediately sprinkle it with a few drops of hot sauce to taste and half of the chives. Serve the pizza whole (usually 1 pizza per person), or let it cool for about 2 minutes before slicing and serving. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza.

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SMOKED SALMON, DILL SAUCE, AND ONION PIZZA.

Makes two 12-inch pizzas2 New York-Style Pizza Dough New York-Style Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s, 12 ounces each b.a.l.l.s, 12 ounces eachUnbleached high-gluten or bread flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel2 tablespoons olive oil cup Dill and Chive Sauce Dill and Chive Sauce1 Vidalia, Walla Walla, Maui, or other sweet onion, cut into thin strips2 tomatoes, thinly sliced pound smoked salmon, thinly sliced2 lemons, each cut into 7 wedges teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to tasteDill sprigs1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour. Make 1 pizza at a time unless your peel and oven can accommodate both pizzas. Shape the dough ball using the toss-and-spin method toss-and-spin method, stretching it to a diameter of about 12 inches. The dough should be about inch thick and slightly thicker toward the edge. Transfer the dough to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour.2. Gently brush 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over the surface of the dough, and then p.r.i.c.k the surface all over with a fork. Carefully slide the dough from the peel onto the baking stone and bake for 6 to 8 minutes. If it puffs up while baking, quickly pop the bubbles with a fork to deflate. When the crust is golden brown, remove it from the oven.3. While the crust is still hot, spread half of the dill sauce over the surface. Cover with half of the onion strips, and then fan the slices from 1 tomato over the onion strips. Cover the tomatoes with half of the smoked salmon slices. Squeeze 1 wedge of lemon evenly over the top. Sprinkle the top with teaspoon of the pepper, or to taste. Garnish with a few dill sprigs.4. Cut the pizza into 6 slices. Place 1 lemon wedge on each slice, and serve immediately while the crust is still warm. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza.

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FOLDED GREEK SALAD PIZZA.

Makes 2 folded pizzasGREEK DRESSING cup extra virgin olive oil3 tablespoons red wine vinegar3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice7 Greek olives, pitted2 tablespoons brine from the Greek olives2 cloves garlic cup crumbled feta cheese1 scallion, coa.r.s.ely chopped teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon dried oregano2 Neo-Neapolitan Pizza Dough Neo-Neapolitan Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s, 10 ounces each b.a.l.l.s, 10 ounces eachUnbleached high-gluten or bread flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel1 cup shredded or coa.r.s.ely grated full-fat or low-fat low-moisture mozzarella cheese

TOSSED SALAD1 head iceberg or green leaf lettuce, torn or cut into small pieces1 English or other sweet cuc.u.mber, peeled and cut into -inch cubes2 tomatoes, chopped into small pieces1 small Vidalia, Walla Walla, Maui, or other sweet onion, cut into thin strips12 Greek olives, pitted cup crumbled feta cheese6 peperoncini (mild pickled peppers), stemmed and coa.r.s.ely chopped1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour.2. While the oven is heating, make the dressing: Combine all the ingredients in a blender and process until smooth.3. Make 1 pizza at a time unless your peel and oven can accommodate both pizzas. Shape the dough ball using the toss-and-spin method toss-and-spin method, stretching it to a diameter of about 12 inches. The dough should be very thin, about inch thick, nearly translucent, and slightly thicker toward the edge. Transfer the dough to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour.4. Gently brush a small amount of the dressing over the surface of the dough. Spread cup of the grated cheese evenly over the top. Carefully slide the dough from the peel onto the baking stone and bake for 7 to 9 minutes. If it puffs up while baking, quickly pop the bubbles with a fork to deflate. When the edge of the crust is golden brown and the cheese is melted, remove it from the oven.5. While the crust is baking, in a large bowl, combine all the salad ingredients. Drizzle with the dressing (reserve a little to brush on the second crust before it goes into the oven) and toss to coat all the ingredients. When the crust is finished baking, remove it from the oven and immediately cover one-half of it generously with salad. Fold the uncovered half over the salad, press down, and transfer to a platter.6. Serve with a knife and fork while the crust is still warm. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza. Serve the extra salad on the side.

ROMAN-STYLE PIZZA.

The defining characteristic of most pizza in Rome is the cracker-thin crust. The product of a.s.siduous rolling and stretching, the crusts are also more uniform from center to edge than those in the Napoletana Napoletana style. Even though the toppings are typically restrained, that first snap of the crust under the tooth unleashes an explosion of flavor, mingling with the smell of the hearth deck. style. Even though the toppings are typically restrained, that first snap of the crust under the tooth unleashes an explosion of flavor, mingling with the smell of the hearth deck.

Then there is the wondrous pizza al taglio pizza al taglio (cut pizza, or pizza by the slice), a cross between focaccia and standard pizza, both in shape and in thickness. It goes by a variety of names, including (cut pizza, or pizza by the slice), a cross between focaccia and standard pizza, both in shape and in thickness. It goes by a variety of names, including pizza al metro pizza al metro (by the meter)-an apt description since this plank-shaped pizza can be up to six or seven feet in length. It is sold by weight: you spread your hands to indicate the size you want, and a section is cut off the pizza and placed on a scale. No matter how much you buy, it always seems that you should have ordered more. I first saw it being made at Antico Forno, a venerable bakery in the picturesque Campo dei Fiori in Rome. The staff was selling the long, narrow pizzas as fast as they came out of the oven, and a new one seemed to emerge every three to five minutes. (by the meter)-an apt description since this plank-shaped pizza can be up to six or seven feet in length. It is sold by weight: you spread your hands to indicate the size you want, and a section is cut off the pizza and placed on a scale. No matter how much you buy, it always seems that you should have ordered more. I first saw it being made at Antico Forno, a venerable bakery in the picturesque Campo dei Fiori in Rome. The staff was selling the long, narrow pizzas as fast as they came out of the oven, and a new one seemed to emerge every three to five minutes.