American Pie_ My Search For The Perfect Pizza Part 4

In New York City, several new pizzerias have started making plank-style pizza, and I expect to see more and more of it across the country. Sullivan Street Bakery in Greenwich Village, where Jim Lahey and his team of bakers are constantly experimenting with new topping ideas, makes the best version I've had in the States.

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PIZZA ALLA ROMANA CON SALUMI.

In Rome, the toppings are often thinly sliced cured meats or anchovies, laid on the top as soon as the pizza emerges from the oven. I like to crisp the meat slices in a frying pan to bring out more flavor and to rid them of some of their fat. This prevents them from burning and also from making the pizza greasy. Garnished with shredded fresh arugula and basil, this pizza is a favorite of mine; you can also use any of the Napoletana Napoletana topping combinations with this dough. topping combinations with this dough.Makes two 12- to 14-inch pizzas4 ounces of any favorite Italian Italian salumi salumi, sliced into very thin circles or strips2 Roman Pizza Dough Roman Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s, 6 ounces each b.a.l.l.s, 6 ounces eachUnbleached all-purpose flour, cornmeal, or semolina flour for dusting peel1 cup All-Purpose All-Purpose Marinara Marinara Pizza Sauce Pizza Sauce or or Crushed Tomato Sauce Crushed Tomato Sauce6 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese (fior di latte) (fior di latte), shredded cup freshly grated pecorino Romano, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Asiago, or other dry aged cheese8 large basil leaves8 arugula leaves1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour.2. While the oven is heating, cook the salumi salumi pieces in a dry saute pan over medium-high heat until they just begin to crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meat to a paper towel to drain the fat. pieces in a dry saute pan over medium-high heat until they just begin to crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meat to a paper towel to drain the fat.3. Make 1 pizza at a time, since the size of each is large. About 30 minutes before you plan to bake the first pizza, lightly dust the counter with flour and use a rolling pin to roll 1 of the dough b.a.l.l.s, from the center to the edges, into a flat circle about 8 inches in diameter. Dust the top of the dough with flour if needed to prevent the pin from sticking. Dust the top of the dough with more flour, cover it with a kitchen towel, and let it rest for 15 minutes. Then, hand stretch the dough into as wide a circle as possible using your knuckles as described in the toss-and-spin method toss-and-spin method. When the dough resists stretching and begins to spring back, stop stretching it. Lightly dust the counter with more flour, lay the stretched dough on the counter, and again lightly dust the top of the dough with more flour. Let it rest uncovered for 3 to 5 minutes. To complete the shaping, use the rolling pin and roll from the center to the edge in all directions, continuing over the edge of the dough to flatten it. The dough should be about 14 inches in diameter and cracker thin, about inch. Using a pastry blade, transfer the dough to a peel or an inverted sheet pan that has been dusted with flour.4. Spread cup of the tomato sauce over the surface of the dough, leaving a -inch border uncovered. Arrange half of the mozzarella over the top of the sauce and sprinkle with half of the grated aged cheese.5. Carefully slide the pizza from the peel onto the baking stone. It should take 7 to 9 minutes to bake. When it is done, the crust should be puffy and slightly charred on the edge and thinner in the center, and the cheese should be fully melted and just beginning to brown in spots. The underside of the crust should be brown and crisp, not white and soft. If the underside is not ready when the top is finished, lower the shelf for the next pizza.6. Remove the finished pizza from the oven and immediately take half of the basil and arugula leaves, roll them up together lengthwise, and cut thinly crosswise to create shreds (known as a chiffonade cut). Sprinkle these over the top of the pizza. Then distribute half of the crisp salumi salumi pieces over the top. Slice and serve. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza. pieces over the top. Slice and serve. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza.

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PIZZA AL TAGLIO, ROSSA E BIANCA.

With this recipe, you can prepare the two types of this pizza on offer at Antico Forno: pizza bianca pizza bianca (topped with olive oil) and (topped with olive oil) and pizza rossa pizza rossa (topped with red sauce). Because a home oven and baking stone cannot accommodate a seven-foot-long strip of dough, this recipe yields mini versions, with strips only as long as your baking stone is wide. It will probably take a little practice before you are able to slide a strip off the peel onto the stone with ease, but within a few tries you should be experiencing on a smaller scale the reason for the buzz that surrounds this addictive product. (topped with red sauce). Because a home oven and baking stone cannot accommodate a seven-foot-long strip of dough, this recipe yields mini versions, with strips only as long as your baking stone is wide. It will probably take a little practice before you are able to slide a strip off the peel onto the stone with ease, but within a few tries you should be experiencing on a smaller scale the reason for the buzz that surrounds this addictive product.Makes three 14 by 4-inch pizzas3 pounds Pizza al Taglio Pizza al Taglio Dough Dough2 cups unbleached all-purpose or bread flour1 cup extra virgin olive oilAll-Purpose Marinara Marinara Pizza Sauce Pizza Sauce for red pizza for red pizzaCoa.r.s.e sea salt or kosher salt for white pizza1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat on the highest setting for at least 1 hour.2. Put the flour and olive oil into separate bowls and place them near your work counter. Toss a large handful of the flour onto the counter and spread it to cover an area 1 foot square. Dip a plastic bowl sc.r.a.per into the water and, working gently, use it to sc.r.a.pe the dough from the bowl onto the floured counter. (If you don't have a plastic sc.r.a.per, wet your hands and use them to scoop the dough onto the counter.) Sprinkle a little flour over the top of the dough, and gently lift and tug the dough into a sheet about 12 inches wide and 6 inches long. Be gentle with the dough so as to degas it as little as possible. To keep the dough from sticking to the counter, slide a pastry blade or the plastic sc.r.a.per under it, and continue sprinkling flour under and on top of the dough as needed.3. Generously dust a peel or an inverted sheet pan with flour. Using the pastry blade, and beginning from the left side, cut off a lengthwise strip from the dough about 4 inches wide. Slip the pastry blade or plastic bowl sc.r.a.per under the strip and slide it away from the dough sheet. This piece, which is 6 inches long and 4 inches wide, will be your first pizza. Dip your fingers into the oil and dimple the entire surface of the dough strip, dega.s.sing it without flattening it completely. It should now not only be a little flatter, but also a little longer and wider. Wipe and dry your fingers clean, dip your hands in the flour, and slip them under the strip of dough. Lift and move the dough onto the peel, stretching it out to the width of the peel, or stretching it on a diagonal to get additional length. If using a sheet pan, stretch it either to the length of the pan, or diagonally from corner to corner. While a length of 14 inches is possible, be sure the dough is no longer than the width of the stone on which you plan to bake it. Also, make sure there is enough flour under the dough for it to slide freely on the peel. Test it by jiggling the peel.4. For a red pizza For a red pizza, dip a pastry brush in the tomato sauce and gently brush the top of the dough with a thin layer of the sauce. For a white pizza For a white pizza, dip a pastry brush in the olive oil and brush it down the center, letting the oil flow into the dimples. Be careful not to get the peel wet with the sauce or oil, or the dough will stick when you attempt to load it into the oven.5. Carefully slide the pizza onto the baking stone. Use short motions, not long strokes, with the peel slanted slightly downward toward the stone. The dough should slide onto the stone across the width of the oven. Immediately close the oven door. The pizza should take 10 to 12 minutes to bake. It will puff up and expand as it bakes and is ready when the edge turns golden brown and the bottom is golden and crisp.6. Remove the finished pizza from the oven to a cooling rack. If you are making a white pizza, you can drizzle or brush more oil over the top, followed by a few grains of coa.r.s.e sea salt. The red pizza is ready to eat without additional sauce, although you can brush on a little more sauce if you like. Let the pizza cool for about 5 minutes before cutting and serving.7. Repeat the process with the remaining dough to make more pizzas. If you do not want to use all of the dough, return the unused portion to an oiled bowl, cover it, and refrigerate. It will be useable for another 2 days.

Variations For the white pizza, you can subst.i.tute Herb Oil Herb Oil for the olive oil. You can also sprinkle fresh rosemary leaves on the pizza after you brush it with either the olive oil or Herb Oil. For the red pizza, you can top the finished pizza with a light sprinkle of grated dry aged cheese. Other toppings can be used as well, such as the for the olive oil. You can also sprinkle fresh rosemary leaves on the pizza after you brush it with either the olive oil or Herb Oil. For the red pizza, you can top the finished pizza with a light sprinkle of grated dry aged cheese. Other toppings can be used as well, such as the specialty toppings specialty toppings or the topping for or the topping for Potato Rosemary Focaccia Potato Rosemary Focaccia. Indeed, almost any pizza or focaccia topping can be used on these plank-style pizzas. It is best to make a few red or white versions first until you get the hang of it, since more elaborately laden pizzas are difficult to load into the oven.

GRILLED PIZZA.

Grilled pizzas, when done correctly, are the greatest thing since pizza itself. The smoky flavor and crisp snap of the crust, created by the intense heat of charcoal cooking, is hard to beat. However, there are a few key concepts and tricks you need to know to pull off grilled pizzas at the highest level. Some of these are my own discoveries and some I learned directly from George Germon of Al Forno, the G.o.dfather of the genre.

First, the nature of the dough is critical to success. It must be tacky, though not sticky, because it must be stretched very thin and yet be easy to handle. Also, for the best flavor, you must coat the dough b.a.l.l.s with olive oil. At Al Forno, the b.a.l.l.s rest in a pan with about a quarter inch of oil. Since my dough recipe uses zippered storage bags to hold the individual dough b.a.l.l.s, I drizzle some olive oil into the bag with each piece of dough.

Second, you must set up a mise en place mise en place system. In other words, you need to a.s.semble all your tools and ingredients, get your grill or grills set up properly, and plan your grilling method, that is, your system. Here are the ingredient and equipment basics. system. In other words, you need to a.s.semble all your tools and ingredients, get your grill or grills set up properly, and plan your grilling method, that is, your system. Here are the ingredient and equipment basics.

Dough: The The recipe for the dough recipe for the dough is easy to make. Plan on 1 pizza per person if pizza is the main course. This is probably more pizza than you will need, but you will want to have that many dough b.a.l.l.s available, depending on what else you are serving. If pizza is just one of many dishes, then figure 1 dough ball for every 2 or 3 people. Even if you have leftovers, you will be happy you do. is easy to make. Plan on 1 pizza per person if pizza is the main course. This is probably more pizza than you will need, but you will want to have that many dough b.a.l.l.s available, depending on what else you are serving. If pizza is just one of many dishes, then figure 1 dough ball for every 2 or 3 people. Even if you have leftovers, you will be happy you do.Tomatoes: These can be fresh or canned. If fresh, figure on 1 large tomato per average-sized pizza. Use whatever is the best-tasting seasonal tomato available. To peel the tomatoes, dip them in boiling water for about 30 seconds, transfer them to cold water, and then peel off the skin. Dice them into chunky pieces and toss them in a bowl with 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 clove garlic, minced, per tomato. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. You can also add chopped fresh basil to the mix, about 2 leaves per tomato, if you like. These can be fresh or canned. If fresh, figure on 1 large tomato per average-sized pizza. Use whatever is the best-tasting seasonal tomato available. To peel the tomatoes, dip them in boiling water for about 30 seconds, transfer them to cold water, and then peel off the skin. Dice them into chunky pieces and toss them in a bowl with 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 clove garlic, minced, per tomato. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. You can also add chopped fresh basil to the mix, about 2 leaves per tomato, if you like.

If tomatoes are out of season, use good-quality canned tomatoes. Plan on one 28-ounce can whole tomatoes for every 3 or 4 pizzas. For each can, drain off the juice (save the juice for making sauces and soups) and cut the tomatoes into chunky pieces, continuing to drain off and collect the juice as you work. In a bowl, toss the tomato pieces with 3 tablespoons olive oil and 3 cloves garlic, minced. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper (some brands are saltier than others, and you may not need to add any salt). A little chopped fresh basil is optional. Keep the tomatoes in the refrigerator until you are ready to grill. You can also use the Crushed Tomato Sauce Crushed Tomato Sauce.Cheese: You will need a few types of cheese. The first is a good melting cheese like full-fat low-moisture mozzarella, fresh mozzarella, Monterey Jack, or even Cheddar or Gouda. The cheese should be grated or shredded. A flavorful dry aged cheese is also important, such Parmigiano-Reggiano, Asiago, pecorino Romana, or You will need a few types of cheese. The first is a good melting cheese like full-fat low-moisture mozzarella, fresh mozzarella, Monterey Jack, or even Cheddar or Gouda. The cheese should be grated or shredded. A flavorful dry aged cheese is also important, such Parmigiano-Reggiano, Asiago, pecorino Romana, or grana padano. grana padano. Finally, have a fresh, creamy cheese on hand, such as fresh goat cheese, Boursin (herbed cream cheese), mascarpone, or something from the Finally, have a fresh, creamy cheese on hand, such as fresh goat cheese, Boursin (herbed cream cheese), mascarpone, or something from the stracchino stracchino family of cheeses. Regular American cream cheese will also work in a pinch. Gorgonzola or other blue cheeses can be used in small portions as well. family of cheeses. Regular American cream cheese will also work in a pinch. Gorgonzola or other blue cheeses can be used in small portions as well.a.s.sorted Specialty Toppings: This list This list details my favorite topping combinations. These are all made up of "flavor burst" ingredients, which means that they deliver a big taste in small quant.i.ties. You do not need to use all of the toppings every time, of course. Choose the ones you want to use and have them ready by grill time. details my favorite topping combinations. These are all made up of "flavor burst" ingredients, which means that they deliver a big taste in small quant.i.ties. You do not need to use all of the toppings every time, of course. Choose the ones you want to use and have them ready by grill time.One or Two Grills: George Germon does not advocate two grills, so I'll take the blame, but I have found that a two-grill system works well, and one of the grills can even be gas-fired (this is where I get into trouble with George). I use a kettle grill heated with good-quality hardwood lump charcoal as my primary grill, and then I use my gas-fired grill for the finish. The official Al Forno method calls for one grill with a graduated slope of charcoal. On one side, the grill is very hot, with the coals only a few inches from the grate, while the other side contains only a few coals, enough for low heat, with the coals much farther from the grate. You can even place a brick in the center and build the coals only on one side, leaving the other side nearly empty. George Germon does not advocate two grills, so I'll take the blame, but I have found that a two-grill system works well, and one of the grills can even be gas-fired (this is where I get into trouble with George). I use a kettle grill heated with good-quality hardwood lump charcoal as my primary grill, and then I use my gas-fired grill for the finish. The official Al Forno method calls for one grill with a graduated slope of charcoal. On one side, the grill is very hot, with the coals only a few inches from the grate, while the other side contains only a few coals, enough for low heat, with the coals much farther from the grate. You can even place a brick in the center and build the coals only on one side, leaving the other side nearly empty.

My method is to use the kettle grill as the hot grill for the first phase, and to use the gas grill, which cannot achieve the necessary heat nor impart true charcoal flavor, only for the second phase. I have found that plenty of charcoal flavor is infused into the crust during the first phase, thus compensating for the gas grill finish. However, in the best of all possible worlds, which means that you have a grill large enough to handle the load, you will achieve the finest results if both sides of the dough are grilled over charcoal.

Use real hardwood lump charcoal, not briquettes. George is partial to maple charcoal, now available at many markets; he feels it imparts a subtle, not-too-smoky flavor, and does not burn as hot as mesquite or hickory. The critical point, however, is to use true hardwood charcoal; fussing over the type of hardwood falls into the realm of fine-tuning.

The Setup Once you have your dough and topping ingredients ready, start the charcoal using either a charcoal chimney or other preferred method, avoiding lighter fluid if possible. Use enough charcoal to create either one bed of hot coals 3 to 5 inches from the grate if using the two-grill system, or a graduated slope of coals if using the one-grill system. After one or two sessions, you will know exactly how much charcoal you will need.

If using the two-grill system, set the grills next to each other. Place one worktable on either side of the grill or grills. I use an L-shaped setup, but a straight-line setup will also work. On the table closest to the hot side of the charcoal grill, leave enough s.p.a.ce to roll out the dough, either directly on the table or on another suitable surface. Have on hand flour for dusting the rolling surface, a good rolling pin or -inch dowel, kitchen towels or plastic wrap for covering the dough, and a small bowl of olive oil and a basting brush for applying it.

On the table closest to the cooler side of the charcoal grill, or to the second grill, arrange all your toppings, including the tomatoes and cheese. Have a small cutting board and a sharp knife on hand for cutting herbs. You will also need a large metal spatula and some ladles, spoons, and tongs for applying the toppings. Squeeze bottles are excellent for any Purees you might be using. A complete list of the tools and other items for both tables appears below. It looks like a large list, and it is, but once you have everything in its place, the operation will go smoothly and quickly.

Checklist for Grilling Worktables HOT SIDE.

1 or 2 sheet pansMetal or wooden peel6 -ounce dough b.a.l.l.s, including at least 2 extra in case of mishapsRolling pin or -inch dowelLarge kitchen towel or plastic wrapNonstick cooking spraySurface for rolling out doughBowl of flour for dustingSmall bowl of olive oil and a basting brushPastry bladePlastic bowl sc.r.a.perCooking mitts or pot holders2 clean kitchen towels or rags, one wet and one dry, for cleaning your hands and surfacesGrill tongs for moving coals

COOL SIDE1 or 2 long metal spatulasTongs, spoons, and ladlesAll topping ingredientsCooking mitts or pot holdersChef's knife and small board for cutting herbsLarge cutting board for landing the pizzas1 or more serving plattersRoller-style pizza cutter or large knife for cutting pizzas How to Grill a Pizza 1. Two hours before grilling, pour 2 tablespoons olive oil per dough ball into a sheet pan. Remove the dough b.a.l.l.s from the refrigerator and from the plastic bags. Roll them in the oil and let them sit in the pan, uncovered, at room temperature. (If the dough is coming directly from the freezer, allow 4 hours. If the temperature of the room is unusually warm, adjust accordingly.)2. Set up your grill or grills and worktables as described.3. About 15 minutes before you begin grilling the pizzas, use your palm to press each dough ball into a rough circle about 4 inches in diameter, or as far as it will comfortably go without springing back. If s.p.a.ce is limited, you can stack the oiled dough pieces, but check them from time to time to make sure they are not sticking to one another, and separate them if they are.4. Take a second sheet pan and turn it upside down. Brush 2 tablespoons olive oil on the back side of the pan. When you are ready to make your first pizza, take 1 round of dough and place it on the oiled pan. Press it with your hand to flatten it further. It should slide on the surface and spread out. You can continue to press it; you can use a rolling pin or dowel to extend it; or you can pick it up and stretch it pick it up and stretch it as you would a regular pizza dough on the knuckles of your hand. Stretch the dough until it is a thin circle or oblong about inch thick-almost, but not quite, paper-thin. It does not have to be perfectly round; it can even be rectangular if that is how the dough takes itself. If the final shape is too big to fit on your grilling surface, trim some of it off with a pizza cutter. (Save the sc.r.a.ps and combine them with other sc.r.a.ps to make another ball of dough.) If the thickness of the dough is uneven, use the rolling pin to even it out. The dough should be 12 to 15 inches in diameter. as you would a regular pizza dough on the knuckles of your hand. Stretch the dough until it is a thin circle or oblong about inch thick-almost, but not quite, paper-thin. It does not have to be perfectly round; it can even be rectangular if that is how the dough takes itself. If the final shape is too big to fit on your grilling surface, trim some of it off with a pizza cutter. (Save the sc.r.a.ps and combine them with other sc.r.a.ps to make another ball of dough.) If the thickness of the dough is uneven, use the rolling pin to even it out. The dough should be 12 to 15 inches in diameter.5. When the dough is ready for the grill, lay it on the back of the oiled sheet pan or on an oiled metal or wooden peel. Mist the grill with cooking spray to a.s.sure that nothing will stick. Carefully slide the dough onto the grill over the hot coals. To do this successfully, jiggle the sheet pan or peel with short vibratory strokes to insure that the dough slides to the proper location and lays flat. Within 30 to 60 seconds, the surface of the dough will begin to bubble. Using a metal spatula, peel, or tongs, lift the dough and peek under to make sure that it is not burning. If it is, remove it immediately to a cooler spot on the grill or to the cooler grill. (The coals may be too hot, in which case you should wait for them to cool before proceeding.)6. When you see the dough begin to char, remove it from the hot side with either a peel, a spatula, or tongs, and flip it over, charred side up, onto either the cooler side of the grill or onto the second grill. Immediately brush the surface with olive oil and begin putting on the toppings.7. The grated cheeses go on first. This includes the mozzarella-style cheeses and any grated aged cheeses. You do not need as much cheese as you would put on an oven pizza-perhaps half the amount, but it must go on first, directly onto the dough.8. Tomatoes go on next. Working quickly, use a spoon or tongs to place pieces of tomato over the surface. Try not to scoop up any tomato juice, just the tomato meat. If using tomato sauce, use a ladle held just above the surface so that the ladle does not disrupt the cheese.9. Next, place the dollops, dots, squirts, and sprinkles of the other toppings. The toppings do not need to cover the entire surface, but rather appear strategically in 6 to 8 spots.10. If using a gas grill, you can close the lid at this point. If using a charcoal grill, you can use the lid, but make sure all the vent holes are open, or you can finish the pizza without the lid. (Again, if you grill both sides of the dough on the same charcoal grill, be sure to find the coolest spot on the grill to place the dough when you flip it, as you will need a few minutes for the toppings to cook and the cheese to melt.) It will take 3 to 6 minutes for the pizza to finish grilling, depending on the heat source.11. Mince or chiffonade-cut the garnishes while the pizza finishes on the grill. If time permits, return to the unbaked dough pieces and begin to prepare the next pizza.12. To determine if the pizza is ready to come off the grill, look for two signs: the cheese should be melted, and the underside should have brown spots or slight charring. If the dough appears to be burning, remove it immediately from the heat. When you know that the pizza is done, transfer it with a peel or metal spatula (I sometimes use 2 metal spatulas, one in each hand, for stability) from the grill to the cutting board on the second table. Immediately garnish the pizza and, if using, drizzle a small amount of Spicy Oil Spicy Oil over the top (or offer the oil in small pitchers at the dining table). over the top (or offer the oil in small pitchers at the dining table).13. You may cut the pizza on the board or serve it whole (pieces can be torn off or cut off with a pizza cutter or large knife at the dining table). In either case, transfer the pizza to a platter and serve immediately. Then begin making the next pizza.

You will become fairly proficient by the second or third time you make grilled pizzas, developing your own rhythm and timing. At that point, your friends, who will be amazed by these extraordinary pies, will begin calling you the grill maestro supreme. However, to become exceptionally good at this technique requires a lot of practice. George Germon insists that what distinguishes Al Forno's grilled pizzas from everyone else's is the years of experience at the technique. I've watched George's protege, Brian Kingsford, cook many times, and he told me it took him about six years before he felt as if he had mastered the grill. You will get better at grilling pizza over time, but, believe me, you will still wow your friends even during your novice period.Topping CombinationsHere are some of my favorite topping combinations. They should encourage you to experiment to create your own topping ideas. Remember, do not overload your pizza, or the crust will dry out or burn before the toppings cook.Mozzarella and Parmigiano-Reggiano blend and fresh or oven-roasted tomato slices, followed by small dollops of Smoked Eggplant Puree Smoked Eggplant Puree and mascarpone or fresh goat cheese, then a few and mascarpone or fresh goat cheese, then a few caramelized garlic cloves caramelized garlic cloves and a sprinkle of toasted pine nuts. Garnish with a sprinkle of fresh basil or arugula and drizzle with and a sprinkle of toasted pine nuts. Garnish with a sprinkle of fresh basil or arugula and drizzle with Spicy Oil Spicy Oil.The same as above, but replace the eggplant Puree with b.u.t.ternut Squash Puree b.u.t.ternut Squash Puree, and replace the caramelized garlic with streaks of Sweet-and-Sour Onion Marmalade Sweet-and-Sour Onion Marmalade. Garnish with a sprinkle of minced fresh thyme and flat-leaf parsley in place of the basil.Mozzarella, Gruyere or Gouda, and Parmesan blend, strips or small chunks of smoked turkey or rotisserie-cooked chicken, dots of blue cheese, streaks of Sweet-and-Sour Onion Marmalade Sweet-and-Sour Onion Marmalade, and a sprinkle of toasted walnuts or pecans. Garnish with scallions, chives, or arugula.The same as above, except subst.i.tute precooked smoked or cured sausage pieces, such as andouille or chaurice chaurice, for the chicken.The same as above, except subst.i.tute well-seasoned grilled shrimp or scallops for the sausage. Garnish with a sprinkle of minced flat-leaf parsley and a drizzle of Spicy Oil Spicy Oil.Mozzarella and Parmesan blend, grilled or sauteed wild mushrooms or portobello strips portobello strips, grilled red and gold bell pepper strips, a few whole spinach or arugula leaves, and dollops of b.u.t.ternut Squash Puree b.u.t.ternut Squash Puree and mascarpone. Garnish with a drizzle of and mascarpone. Garnish with a drizzle of Spicy Oil Spicy Oil.

Piadina You can also make a piadina piadina, a folded Italian sandwich, using this same technique. Proceed as for grilled pizza, but after you flip over the dough, top it with sandwich fillings such as slices of cheese, marinated grilled vegetables, and slices of meat or poultry. After about 2 minutes, fold the dough in half to make a sandwich. Continue grilling for another minute or two, then flip the sandwich over and grill the other side for about 2 minutes, or until it is lightly charred. Serve piping hot.

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CHICAGO DEEP-DISH PIZZA AND STUFFED PIZZA.

Admittedly, I was not totally won over by the deep-dish and stuffed pizzas of Chicago. But if the happy crowds I saw there are any indication, thousands of people clearly feel as strongly about the pizzas at Lou Malnatti's, Gino's East, Giordano's, Pizzeria Uno, and Pizzeria Due as I do about the pizzas at Pizzeria Bianco, Da Michele, and Frank Pepe's. It is instead a question of category preference: I just happen to be a thin-crust, neo-Neapolitan kind of guy. Still, I have discovered that every once in a while I'm in the mood for the full-bodied adventure of deep-dish, and I have developed recipes for the Chicago model to satisfy that craving.

I am including a basic recipe with topping variations that works for both the cla.s.sic deep-dish pizza and its cousin, the stuffed pizza, which includes a top crust hidden just below a second layer of toppings. The latter is more like a pie than like conventional pizza, loaded as it is with lavalike fillings. A slice is a meal. The crusts for both the cla.s.sic and the stuffed pizzas are prebaked before the toppings are added. A baking stone will bake the pizzas more evenly but is not essential.

A typical restaurant deep-dish pizza is 14 inches in diameter, though you can get them smaller. Since most home cooks do not have a 14-inch pan, I have given instructions for baking the pizzas in regular 10-inch cake pans, but if you have a larger pan, you can use the same total amount of dough, rolling it out into one 20-inch disk; the same topping amounts can also be used. Add about 5 minutes to the baking time for a 14-inch pie.

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CLa.s.sIC DEEP-DISH PIZZA.

Makes two 10-inch pizzas2 Chicago Deep-Dish Pizza Dough Chicago Deep-Dish Pizza Dough b.a.l.l.s, 18 ounces each b.a.l.l.s, 18 ounces each2 cups coa.r.s.ely shredded full-fat or low-fat low-moisture mozzarella cheese4 cups Crushed Tomato Sauce Crushed Tomato Sauce cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, pecorino Romano, Asiago, or other dry aged cheese 1. Place a baking stone, if using, on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat to 400F. If you do not have a baking stone, position 1 oven shelf in the center of the oven and a second in the lowest position.

2. Oil two 10-inch round cake pans. Roll out each dough ball with a rolling pin, working from the center outward, into a disk about 14 inches in diameter. If the dough resists rolling or becomes too springy and elastic, cover it with a towel and let it rest for 5 minutes before resuming. Lay a finished disk over a prepared pan, lower it gently into the pan, and then press the dough snuggly into the bottom, corners, and then up the sides. Ideally, the dough will drape slightly over the rim; crimp the overhang to form a thick edge around the top of the rim. p.r.i.c.k the entire surface with a fork to minimize bubbling in the oven.

3. If you like a thin crust, bake immediately. If you prefer a thicker crust, cover the dough-lined pans with a kitchen towel and let sit at room temperature for 30 to 60 minutes. Bake the crusts on the middle shelf of the oven for 3 to 4 minutes to set them. The rim of the dough will slide back down into the pan somewhat, but this is normal and will form the edge.

4. Place each crust in its pan on the counter and let cool for at least 5 minutes. Evenly spread the mozzarella cheese in the bottom, then ladle in the tomato sauce to fill the pans. Sprinkle the grated aged cheese evenly over the top of the sauce.

5. Place the pans in the oven on the baking stone or, if not using a stone, on the lowest oven shelf. Immediately reduce the heat to 375F and bake for 15 minutes. Then, if baking on a stone, rotate the pan 180 degrees. If baking directly on the shelf, move the pans to the middle shelf and rotate them 180 degrees. In either case, continue to bake for 20 to 25 minutes longer, or until the edges of the crust are a deep brown (but not burned) and the cheese is golden.

6. Remove the pizzas from the oven and place on a cooling rack for 5 minutes. Remove the pizzas from the pans by loosening the crust with a metal spatula and then gently sliding the spatula under the pizza to lift it out. Serve the pizzas on a cutting board, or cut and serve directly from the pan.

Deep-Dish Toppings Ricotta and cheese: Cut the quant.i.ty of mozzarella cheese in the master recipe to 1 cups and stir it together 1 cups cups ricotta cheese or full-fat or low-fat small-curd cottage cheese. Add 2 eggs, beaten, and 1 teaspoon salt and stir until all the ingredients are evenly distributed. Fill the prebaked sh.e.l.ls with the cheese mixture and ladle the tomato sauce over the cheese to fill the sh.e.l.l. Omit the grated aged cheese, if desired. Bake as directed. Cut the quant.i.ty of mozzarella cheese in the master recipe to 1 cups and stir it together 1 cups cups ricotta cheese or full-fat or low-fat small-curd cottage cheese. Add 2 eggs, beaten, and 1 teaspoon salt and stir until all the ingredients are evenly distributed. Fill the prebaked sh.e.l.ls with the cheese mixture and ladle the tomato sauce over the cheese to fill the sh.e.l.l. Omit the grated aged cheese, if desired. Bake as directed.Italian sausage: This is the most popular deep-dish topping in restaurants. You can make it two different ways. For my favorite method, shape pound Italian pork sausage meat (removed from the casing) into 2 patties the diameter of the deep-dish pans. Layer the mozzarella cheese, the tomato sauce, and the dry aged cheese in the pan as directed, then lay the patty over the top like a lid. Brush the patty with olive oil and bake as directed. The sausage will have taken on a dark, rich color when the pizza is ready. This is the most popular deep-dish topping in restaurants. You can make it two different ways. For my favorite method, shape pound Italian pork sausage meat (removed from the casing) into 2 patties the diameter of the deep-dish pans. Layer the mozzarella cheese, the tomato sauce, and the dry aged cheese in the pan as directed, then lay the patty over the top like a lid. Brush the patty with olive oil and bake as directed. The sausage will have taken on a dark, rich color when the pizza is ready.

For the second method, which is less fatty, fry pound Italian sausage meat in a frying pan over medium heat, stirring to break up any lumps, for about 5 minutes, or until lightly browned. Transfer the contents of the pan to a sieve placed over a bowl to drain off the fat. Layer the mozzarella cheese and the tomato sauce in the pan, scatter the cooked sausage over the top, and then finish with the grated aged cheese. Bake as directed.

You can subst.i.tute ground beef, lamb, chicken, or turkey seasoned with salt and pepper (about teaspoon salt and teaspoon coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper) and fresh or granulated garlic powder to taste for the sausage in either method.Spinach: In a bowl, stir together 12 ounces thawed, frozen chopped spinach, squeezed dry, with 2 cups shredded full-fat or low-fat low-moisture mozzarella cheese. Season to taste with minced fresh garlic or granulated garlic powder to taste, if desired. Subst.i.tute this mixture for the mozzarella cheese in the master recipe and then continue as directed. In a bowl, stir together 12 ounces thawed, frozen chopped spinach, squeezed dry, with 2 cups shredded full-fat or low-fat low-moisture mozzarella cheese. Season to taste with minced fresh garlic or granulated garlic powder to taste, if desired. Subst.i.tute this mixture for the mozzarella cheese in the master recipe and then continue as directed.Vegetable: In a bowl, stir together 2 cups lightly sauteed chopped vegetables such as onion, bell pepper, mushroom, zucchini or yellow squash, kale, or chard and the grated aged cheese. Layer the mozzarella cheese and the tomato sauce in the pan and top with the vegetable-cheese mixture. Bake as directed. In a bowl, stir together 2 cups lightly sauteed chopped vegetables such as onion, bell pepper, mushroom, zucchini or yellow squash, kale, or chard and the grated aged cheese. Layer the mozzarella cheese and the tomato sauce in the pan and top with the vegetable-cheese mixture. Bake as directed.Other options: Add olives, anchovies, onions, peperoncini (pickled peppers), Add olives, anchovies, onions, peperoncini (pickled peppers), pesto pesto, or other cheeses, including cream cheese, sour cream, or mascarpone, to taste, to the cla.s.sic recipe or any of the variations.

Stuffed Pizza To make this popular variation of the Chicago pie, you will need an additional 6-ounce Chicago Deep-Dish Pizza Dough Chicago Deep-Dish Pizza Dough ball or the same amount of any of the following doughs for each 10-inch stuffed pizza you plan to make: ball or the same amount of any of the following doughs for each 10-inch stuffed pizza you plan to make: Neo-Neapolitan Neo-Neapolitan, New YorkStyle New YorkStyle, or Americana Americana. (You will need 12 ounces of dough if making a 14-inch stuffed pizza.) Using a rolling pin, roll out the additional dough to the diameter of the deep-dish pan. Dust the counter and the dough as needed to prevent it from sticking; allow the dough to rest for 5 minutes if it is too springy to hold its shape. Layer 1 cups mozzarella cheese (or the spinach topping variation), 1 cups tomato sauce, and any other toppings you wish in the prebaked crust. Lay the round of dough evenly over the top of the pan. Press it into the topping, allowing the edge of the dough to drape over the rim of the pan (it will cover the top edge of the prebaked crust and then sink down into the pan). Cut a pair of 1-inch slits in the top for vents. Ladle about cup of the tomato sauce over the top dough, filling the pan. Top with the grated aged cheese. Bake as directed for Cla.s.sic Deep-Dish Pizza.

SARDINIAN CARTA DI MUSICA CARTA DI MUSICA PIZZA PIZZA.

In my world, there are two types of Sardinian pizza. One is the kind typically served on the island, basically pizza made in the style of Naples, which lies just across the Tyrrhenian Sea. The other is crisp, like a cracker bread. Both entered my world as a result of my visit to Arcodoro & Pomodoro, a wonderful Italian restaurant in Dallas, where I ate a Sardinian riff on Neapolitan pizza and also first saw carta di musica carta di musica, Sardinia's everyday bread.

As soon as I tried the carta di musica carta di musica, I thought about using it for making pizza. Later, when I read about well-known chef Mario Batali launching a pizzeria in New York that would do just that, I knew I would have to eat there. But when I showed up at Batali's stylish Otto Enoteca, the crusts were a variation of griddled Napoletana Napoletana-style dough. "The carta di musica carta di musica crusts weren't strong enough to support the toppings I had in mind," he told me. "They were too brittle, so we came up with our own unique concept." crusts weren't strong enough to support the toppings I had in mind," he told me. "They were too brittle, so we came up with our own unique concept."

Since the home kitchen can be a lot more forgiving than the restaurant setting, I forged ahead with my notion and came up with two variations. The first bakes the carta di musica carta di musica only until it is a soft flatbread, while the second crisps it to cracker consistency in a second visit to the oven. Both methods make an ultrathin crust, but the second version produces a supercrispy, highly fragile base. I can see why it would not be practical in a restaurant situation, although it works quite well at home. Even the soft version ultimately makes a crisp pizza because it gets rebaked when the toppings are applied. Only you can be the arbiter as to which is best. However, both methods should yield the thinnest, crispiest pizza crust you will find anywhere. only until it is a soft flatbread, while the second crisps it to cracker consistency in a second visit to the oven. Both methods make an ultrathin crust, but the second version produces a supercrispy, highly fragile base. I can see why it would not be practical in a restaurant situation, although it works quite well at home. Even the soft version ultimately makes a crisp pizza because it gets rebaked when the toppings are applied. Only you can be the arbiter as to which is best. However, both methods should yield the thinnest, crispiest pizza crust you will find anywhere.

Any pizza-topping combinations used elsewhere in the book can be used on these crusts as long as you don't overload them. The following two pizzas are tributes to the Sardinian pa.s.sion for bold flavors.

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PIZZA ALLA PESCATORA.

Pescatora means "fisherman's style." Even though Sardinia is an island, much of the cuisine is more land based than sea, with a wonderful array of local cheeses, olive oil, and meats, mainly lamb. But given the long coastlines, I couldn't resist making the following pizza, which evokes the island mystique about as well as anything I can imagine. means "fisherman's style." Even though Sardinia is an island, much of the cuisine is more land based than sea, with a wonderful array of local cheeses, olive oil, and meats, mainly lamb. But given the long coastlines, I couldn't resist making the following pizza, which evokes the island mystique about as well as anything I can imagine.Makes two 10 by 7-inch pizzas12 mussels, scrubbed12 manila or cherrystone clams8 shrimp, peeled and deveined, or bay scallops cup extra virgin olive oil2 carta di musica carta di musica crusts, either soft or crisp crusts, either soft or crisp1 cups Crushed Tomato Sauce Crushed Tomato Sauce4 cloves garlic, cut into slivers or thin slices2 teaspoons capers teaspoon freshly ground black pepper2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, pecorino Romano, Asiago, or other dry aged cheese (optional) 1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat to 450F for at least 1 hour.

2. While the oven is heating, place the mussels and clams in a dry cast-iron frying pan, cover tightly, and place over medium-high heat. Cook for about 4 minutes, or just until the sh.e.l.ls open. Remove the mussels and clams, discarding any that do not open, and set aside to cool. Leave them in their sh.e.l.ls. Next, saute the shrimp in 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat until just cooked, about 2 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to a bowl to cool and reserve the pan juices.

3. Make 1 pizza at a time unless your peel and oven can accommodate both pizzas. Set 1 crust, rough surface up, on a peel or inverted sheet pan. (You do not need to dust the peel with flour because the baked crust will not stick.) Spread cup of the tomato sauce over the surface of the crust, leaving a -inch border uncovered. Sprinkle half each of the garlic and capers over the top. Place 4 of the shrimp around the top of the pizza, and do the same with 6 each of the mussels and clams in their sh.e.l.ls. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over the surface, spiraling it out from the center. Sprinkle with half of the black pepper and drizzle with half of the reserved pan juices.

4. Carefully slide the pizza onto the baking stone and bake for about 6 minutes, or until the mussel and clam sh.e.l.ls are very hot. Remove the finished pizza from the oven and place on a serving platter. Immediately sprinkle half each of the parsley and the cheese over the top. To eat, break off sections by hand. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza.

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PIZZA CON LE SARDE.

Sardines may rise and fall in popularity, but they never completely disappear from the culinary landscape. If you are not a sardine person, you may subst.i.tute 8 anchovy fillets, or 8 shrimp, peeled and deveined and lightly sauteed in garlic and olive oil.Makes two 10 by 7-inch pizzas2 carta di musica carta di musica crusts, either soft or crisp crusts, either soft or crisp cup Crushed Tomato Sauce Crushed Tomato Sauce4 high-quality sardines6 ounces fresh mozzarella, either mozzarella di bufala mozzarella di bufala or or fior di latte fior di latte, or full-fat low-moisture mozzarella cheese, cut into thin strips12 caramelized garlic cloves caramelized garlic cloves16 Kalamata or favorite brine- or salt-cured black olives2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil8 fresh basil leaves 1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat to 450F for at least 1 hour. Make 1 pizza at a time unless your peel and oven can accommodate both pizzas. Set 1 crust, rough surface up, on a peel or inverted sheet pan. (You do not need to dust the peel with flour because the baked crust will not stick.) 2. Spread cup of the tomato sauce over the surface of the crust, leaving a -inch border uncovered. Cut 2 sardines crosswise to yield 4 pieces each and distribute the pieces evenly over the crust. Arrange half of the cheese strips evenly over the surface, and then top with 6 garlic cloves and 8 olives. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over the surface, spiraling it out from the center.

3. Carefully slide the pizza onto the baking stone and bake for about 6 minutes, or until the cheese melts. While the pizza is baking, stack the basil leaves, roll them up lengthwise, and cut thinly crosswise to create shreds (known as a chiffonade cut). Remove the finished pizza from the oven and place on a serving platter. Immediately sprinkle half of the basil over the top. Let the pizza cool for 3 minutes before serving. To eat, break off sections by hand. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make the second pizza.

FOCACCIA.

Much of the focaccia I encountered in Italy was simple, with little or no embellishment other than a dusting of salt or seeds or a single topping such as olives, marinara marinara sauce, pancetta, sauteed leeks, or roasted peppers. But focaccia is like pizza-actually it is just pizza under a different name-which means that there are countless variations to explore, all wonderful. Carol Field writes about many of them in her excellent cookbooks, should you desire to explore the full range of this pizza relative. sauce, pancetta, sauteed leeks, or roasted peppers. But focaccia is like pizza-actually it is just pizza under a different name-which means that there are countless variations to explore, all wonderful. Carol Field writes about many of them in her excellent cookbooks, should you desire to explore the full range of this pizza relative.

Unlike pizza, which cooks quickly, focaccia spends a while in the oven. For this reason, most cheeses cannot be put on it until the last few minutes of baking. The exceptions are some creamy cheeses, such as Gorgonzola, which can stand up to the long bake.

Sun-dried tomatoes and other dried products have a tendency to burn if laid on the surface. To protect them, you must either mix them into the dough, or dimple them into the surface and cover them with something else later, such as caramelized onions. Caramelized garlic Caramelized garlic is delicious on focaccia, too, but usually only in concert with other ingredients like sausage slices or potatoes. is delicious on focaccia, too, but usually only in concert with other ingredients like sausage slices or potatoes.

As with pizza, the best toppings are wasted if the dough underneath is not excellent. This is the reason I suggest making your first focaccia with just plain olive oil (or Herb Oil) and a sprinkling of salt, in the cla.s.sic style of Genoa. When you have mastered the dough, then the realm of topping options begins to unfold like a good novel.

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FOCACCIA ALLA GENOVESE.

An important distinguis.h.i.+ng characteristic of focaccia is the dimpled surface; the dimples collect olive oil and contribute to the flavor. After you have transferred the dough to the pan, the dimpling occurs in three stages, as described below. The method for shaping and baking focaccia dough is the same for most focaccia recipes, so the variations that follow refer back to it.Makes one 12 by 17-inch focacciaFocaccia Dough cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil or Herb Oil Herb Oil teaspoon coa.r.s.e sea salt or kosher salt To shape and dimple the dough: 1. Line a 12 by 17-inch sheet pan with baking parchment or with a silicone nonstick baking pan liner (Silpat). Drizzle the 2 tablespoons olive oil onto the parchment or liner and spread it over the surface. Dip a plastic bowl sc.r.a.per into water and, working gently, use it to sc.r.a.pe the dough from the bowl into the prepared pan. (If you don't have a plastic sc.r.a.per, wet your hands and use them to scoop the dough into the pan.) Be gentle with the dough so as to degas it as little as possible.

2. Drizzle the cup olive oil over the surface of the dough. Using only your fingertips, press down on the dough, creating dimples and pockets all over the surface for the oil to fill. Do not press the dough outward toward the edges of the pan; instead, simply press downward at only a slight angle toward the edges. The dough will spread on its own; any attempt to force it toward the pan edges will tear it and cause uneven sections. The dough will probably fill the pan a little more than half full before it begins to become elastic and spring back toward the center. When this occurs, stop pressing and let the dough relax at room temperature for about 15 minutes. Do not worry if some or much of the oil slides off the top of the dough; it will all be absorbed eventually. The pan of dough does not need to be covered, as the oil will protect it from developing a skin.

3. Repeat the dimpling process, beginning at the center and gradually working out toward the edges of the pan. This time the dough will nearly fill the pan. Try to keep the dough somewhat even across the top. Again, let the dough relax at room temperature for about 15 minutes.

4. Repeat the dimpling. This time the dough should fill the entire pan (if it does not quite fill the corners, don't worry, it will when it rises). Do not degas the dough any more than necessary as you spread it to fill the pan. Let the dough rise at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours, or until it fills the pan.To bake and cool the focaccia: 5. Preheat the oven to 500F. Just before baking, sprinkle the salt over the top of the dough. Place the sheet pan on the middle shelf of the oven, lower the temperature to 450F, and bake for 20 minutes. Rotate the pan 180 degrees and continue baking for 10 to 20 minutes longer, or until both the top and underside are golden brown and slightly crisp.

6. Just before the focaccia is ready, place a cooling rack inside or over a sheet pan (to catch any dripping oil). Remove the finished focaccia from the oven and, using a metal spatula or pastry blade, loosen it from the sides of the pan. Slip the spatula or pastry blade between the focaccia and the parchment or baking liner and lift up the edge of the focaccia. Then jiggle the focaccia out of the pan onto the rack, leaving the parchment or baking liner in the pan. Pour any oil left in the pan over the top of the focaccia.

7. Let the focaccia cool for at least 20 minutes before cutting and serving.

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POTATO ROSEMARY FOCACCIA.

This focaccia variation, which goes under the name focaccia con patate e rosmarino focaccia con patate e rosmarino in Tuscany and "potato pizza" in New York City, is beginning to emerge as the most popular topping among the new generation of focaccia fanciers. It is their benchmark in much the same way that the in Tuscany and "potato pizza" in New York City, is beginning to emerge as the most popular topping among the new generation of focaccia fanciers. It is their benchmark in much the same way that the pizza Margherita pizza Margherita is the benchmark for pizza and the baguette is for bread. When you make it, you'll understand why. is the benchmark for pizza and the baguette is for bread. When you make it, you'll understand why.Makes one 12 by 17-inch focacciaFocaccia Dough cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil8 new potatoes or 1 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes1 large white or yellow onion, cut into thin strips (optional)Leaves from 1 rosemary sprig1 cup Herb Oil Herb Oil teaspoon coa.r.s.e sea salt or kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste 1. Shape and dimple the dough in a 12 by 17-inch sheet pan, using the 2 tablespoons olive oil for preparing the pan and the cup olive oil for dimpling the dough. Let the dough rise at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours, or until it fills the pan. in a 12 by 17-inch sheet pan, using the 2 tablespoons olive oil for preparing the pan and the cup olive oil for dimpling the dough. Let the dough rise at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours, or until it fills the pan.

2. While the dough is rising in the pan, prepare the potatoes. If using new potatoes, place them in a saucepan with water to cover, bring to a boil, and boil for about 10 minutes, or until they can be easily pierced with a fork. Drain, let cool (or plunge them in cold water to speed the process), and cut into -inch-thick slices. If using regular-sized Yukon Gold potatoes, slice them paper-thin using a food processor, a mandoline, or a chef's knife. In a bowl, combine the sliced potatoes, onion, and rosemary. Pour in the Herb Oil and toss gently to coat.

3. Preheat the oven to 500F. When the focaccia is fully risen and ready to bake, remove the potatoes from the oil, shaking off the excess oil, and spread the slices over the surface of the dough, either randomly or stacked like dominoes. Place the sheet pan on the middle shelf of the oven, bake for 5 minutes, and then lower the temperature to 400F. Bake for 15 minutes, then rotate the pan 180 degrees. Continue to bake for 20 to 25 minutes longer, or until the dough and the potatoes are golden around the edges.

4. Remove the finished focaccia from the oven and immediately transfer it to a cooling rack immediately transfer it to a cooling rack. Drizzle any oil remaining in the pan, as well as any remaining Herb Oil, to taste, over the potatoes. Season with the salt and pepper, then let cool for at least 20 minutes before cutting and serving.

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FOCACCIA WITH ONION MARMALADE, BLUE CHEESE, AND WALNUTS.

Here is my all-time favorite focaccia. The Ligurian version usually calls for creamy Gorgonzola, but I prefer a firmer cheese, such as Danish blue or some of the domestic brands, because they are easier to crumble and distribute over the top. While the firmer cheese still melts, it does not completely puddle and disappear into the onion marmalade like the softer Gorgonzola.Makes one 12 by 17-inch focacciaFocaccia Dough cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil1 cups Sweet-and-Sour Onion Marmalade Sweet-and-Sour Onion Marmalade pound blue cheese (see recipe introduction), crumbled or cut into -inch pieces1 cup coa.r.s.ely chopped walnuts 1. Shape and dimple the dough in a 12 by 17-inch sheet pan, using the 2 tablespoons olive oil for preparing the pan and the cup olive oil for dimpling the dough. Let the dough rise at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours, or until it fills the pan. in a 12 by 17-inch sheet pan, using the 2 tablespoons olive oil for preparing the pan and the cup olive oil for dimpling the dough. Let the dough rise at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours, or until it fills the pan.

2. Preheat the oven to 500F. When the focaccia is fully risen and ready to bake, gently spread the onion marmalade evenly over the surface. Evenly distribute the blue cheese over the onion marmalade and scatter the walnuts over the top.

3. Place the sheet pan on the middle shelf of the oven, lower the temperature to 450F, and bake for 20 minutes. Rotate the pan 180 degrees and continue baking for 20 to 25 minutes longer, or until the dough is golden on the bottom and the top.

4. Remove the finished focaccia from the oven and immediately transfer it to a cooling rack immediately transfer it to a cooling rack. Drizzle any oil remaining in the pan over the top. Let cool for at least 20 minutes before cutting and serving.