American Pie_ My Search For The Perfect Pizza Part 5

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RAISIN FOCACCIA.

You have never tasted raisin bread this good-wonderful for breakfast or for dessert. You can use different liquids to plump the raisins, such as a liqueur, wine, or even plain water, but I like to use orange or grape juice concentrate. For a little extra flavor, subst.i.tute cup orange liqueur or brandy for an equal amount of the fruit juice concentrate. You can also use sweetened dried cranberries, dried currants, or other dried fruits in place of the raisins, or put together a combination you like. Because the soaked raisins and additional flour add weight to the dough, you need only a half batch of the basic recipe to fill the pan. Nor will the dough rise as high as plain focaccia dough because of all the fruit, but the taste will still be superb.Makes one 12 by 17-inch focaccia2 cups dark or golden raisins cup warm water cup orange or grape juice concentrate, heated until warm recipe Focaccia Dough Focaccia Dough, prepared through the resting step1 cup (4 ounces) unbleached bread flour, or as needed cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil cup coa.r.s.e sugar, raw sugar, or brown sugar 1. In a bowl combine the raisins, water, and orange juice concentrate and leave the raisins to plump for 1 hour.

2. Begin making the Focaccia Dough as directed. After the 5-minute rest, add the raisins and any liquid remaining in the bowl at the same time the olive oil called for in the dough recipe is added. Continue mixing, slowly adding the additional 1 cup flour, until the dough clears the sides of the bowl. Add more flour if needed until the dough achieves the described texture. The raisins will expel some of their liquid as you mix, so monitor the addition of the flour closely. Form the dough into a ball and refrigerate overnight as directed. The next day, the dough should have nearly doubled in size. Allow it to sit at room temperature for about 2 hours before making the focaccia.

3. Shape and dimple the dough in a 12 by 17-inch sheet pan, using the 2 tablespoons olive oil for preparing the pan and the cup olive oil for dimpling the dough. Let the dough rise at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours, or until it fills the pan about three-fourths full. in a 12 by 17-inch sheet pan, using the 2 tablespoons olive oil for preparing the pan and the cup olive oil for dimpling the dough. Let the dough rise at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours, or until it fills the pan about three-fourths full.

4. Preheat the oven to 500F. Just before baking, sprinkle the sugar over the top of the dough. Place the sheet pan on the middle shelf of the oven, lower the temperature to 450F, and bake for 20 minutes. Rotate the pan 180 degrees and continue baking for 20 to 25 minutes longer, or until the dough is golden and slightly crisp on the bottom and the top.

5. Remove the finished focaccia from the oven and immediately transfer it to a cooling rack immediately transfer it to a cooling rack. Drizzle any oil remaining in the pan over the top. Let cool for at least 20 minutes before cutting and serving.

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GRAPE FOCACCIA.

I have had a number of versions of this double-layered focaccia, which is more properly called schiacciata schiacciata because it hails from Tuscany, not Liguria. Regardless of the place of origin, it's like the ultimate grape jelly sandwich. The following recipe, which is my variation of Carol Field's version in because it hails from Tuscany, not Liguria. Regardless of the place of origin, it's like the ultimate grape jelly sandwich. The following recipe, which is my variation of Carol Field's version in Focaccia: Simple Breads from the Italian Oven Focaccia: Simple Breads from the Italian Oven, has wonderful licorice tones from the aniseed and anise liqueur. If possible, use 10-inch springform pans. Their tall sides hold in the juice and accommodate the double-decked layers. Cake pans will also work. If you do not like the flavor of anise, you can omit the aniseed and subst.i.tute orange liqueur or water for the anise liqueur.Makes two 10-inch round focacciasFocaccia Dough, with subst.i.tution noted below cup sambuca or other anise liqueur2 teaspoons aniseed cup olive oil3 pounds seedless red, black, or green grapes, or any combination cup coa.r.s.e sugar, raw sugar, or brown sugar cup granulated sugar cup water 1. Make the Focaccia Dough as directed, subst.i.tuting cup of the anise liqueur for cup of the water in the recipe and working in the aniseed when you have nearly finished mixing the dough.

2. The next day, sprinkle some flour on the counter. Dip a plastic bowl sc.r.a.per into water and, working gently, use it to sc.r.a.pe the dough from the bowl onto the floured counter. (If you don't have a plastic sc.r.a.per, wet your hands and use them to scoop the dough onto the counter.) Be gentle with the dough so as to degas it as little as possible. Divide the dough into 4 equal pieces. Using 1 tablespoon of the olive oil for each pan, oil two 10-inch springform pans. Lay 1 piece of dough in each prepared pan, then brush the top of each piece with 1 tablespoon oil. Shape and dimple the dough Shape and dimple the dough. If the dough does not spread to fill the pans, let it relax for 5 or 10 minutes and then dimple it again.

3. Divide the grapes into 4 equal portions. Spread 1 portion on top of each pan of dimpled dough. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of the coa.r.s.e sugar over the grapes in each pan, then gently press the grapes into the dough. Oil your palm and use it to press the remaining 2 pieces of dough into disks on the floured counter, brus.h.i.+ng the disks with oil if necessary to keep them from sticking to your hand. Let the pieces rest for a few minutes and then press again. Repeat the pressing and resting until the disks are each at least 10 inches in diameter. Lay these dough pieces over the grapes in each pan, and crimp the edges of the top and bottom dough layers to seal. Top each second layer with 1 of the remaining grape portions. Sprinkle the remaining 2 tablespoons coa.r.s.e sugar evenly over the tops, and then gently press the grapes into the dough. Cover the pans with a kitchen towel or plastic wrap and let the focaccias rise at room temperature for about 45 minutes. The dough will not double in size, but it will increase in size by about 25 percent or so.

4. Preheat the oven to 450F. Place the pans on the middle shelf of the oven, lower the temperature to 375F, and bake for 25 minutes. Rotate the pans 180 degrees and continue baking for about 15 minutes, or until the tops and undersides are golden brown and slightly crisp.

5. While the focaccias are baking, in a small saucepan, combine the granulated sugar and water and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to medium and cook for about 5 minutes, or until the liquid is reduced to a thick, syrupy consistency. Add the remaining cup anise liqueur and boil for 1 minute longer, then remove from the heat.

6. When the focaccias appear nearly done-the grapes will look shriveled and the edges of the dough will be golden-brush the top of each focaccia generously with the syrup and continue baking for 5 minutes longer, or until the tops are golden. Remove the finished focaccias from the oven to a cooling rack. Let cool for 5 minutes, then invert each pan onto a plate to unmold the focaccia. Turn each focaccia right side up on a cooling rack and let cool for at least 20 minutes before cutting and serving.

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FOCACCIA COL FORMAGGIO DI RECCO.

This Ligurian specialty does not conform to the common notion of focaccia. It's more like the best quesadilla you've ever tasted. It comes from the town of Recco and is similar to a Macedonian pita Macedonian pita, though it lacks the multiple layers of the latter. In Recco, cooks fill the focaccia with stracchino stracchino, a fresh, creamy cultured cheese made from cow's milk. Italian stracchino stracchino is hard to find in the United States, but the more accessible is hard to find in the United States, but the more accessible mozzarella di bufala mozzarella di bufala, though made by a different process, is a good subst.i.tute, as is fior di latte fior di latte, cow's milk mozzarella. However, the mozzarella should be mixed with some type of fresh cream cheese to approximate stracchino stracchino more closely. more closely. Robiola Robiola and and crescenza crescenza are other creamy Italian cheeses that have the good melting properties that this focaccia needs. Though not on the table in Recco, even a young Brie or Camembert without the rind would work. Yet the easiest and best subst.i.tute for are other creamy Italian cheeses that have the good melting properties that this focaccia needs. Though not on the table in Recco, even a young Brie or Camembert without the rind would work. Yet the easiest and best subst.i.tute for stracchino stracchino is probably mascarpone, a full-fat Italian cream cheese that is widely available and melts into a decadent puddle. I've made is probably mascarpone, a full-fat Italian cream cheese that is widely available and melts into a decadent puddle. I've made focaccia col formaggio focaccia col formaggio with all of these cheeses; I've even used plain old American cream cheese whipped with a little sour cream and had respectable results. with all of these cheeses; I've even used plain old American cream cheese whipped with a little sour cream and had respectable results.The most amazing thing about focaccia col formaggio focaccia col formaggio, whether of Recco or a pretender, is the sheer simplicity that translates into such total satisfaction. We think of pizza as a simple food of dough, sauce, and cheese. But pizza, with its fermentation and baking requirements, is rocket science when compared to focaccia col formaggio. focaccia col formaggio. This extraordinary focaccia requires only a conventional oven, the simplest of doughs (flour, water, and a pinch of salt), and the most basic of young cheeses. Aging or manipulating of any of the ingredients is out of the question. I'm sure that there is a lesson in that, but the implications of it frighten me, a man in love with not only the process, but also the very concept, the metaphor, of fermentation. This extraordinary focaccia requires only a conventional oven, the simplest of doughs (flour, water, and a pinch of salt), and the most basic of young cheeses. Aging or manipulating of any of the ingredients is out of the question. I'm sure that there is a lesson in that, but the implications of it frighten me, a man in love with not only the process, but also the very concept, the metaphor, of fermentation.The best way to roll out this simple dough is with a - or -inch wooden dowel, rather than a rolling pin. The dowel allows you to exert enough pressure to overpower the gluten and extend the dough to its fullest diameter; with a regular rolling pin, you cannot get that kind leverage. Also, as you become more proficient at making this focaccia, you may want to dispense with the pan and bake it directly on a stone, as you would a Napoletana Napoletana pizza. Many places in Recco do it this way. pizza. Many places in Recco do it this way.Makes two 10- to 12-inch round focaccias4 focaccia col formaggio focaccia col formaggio dough b.a.l.l.s dough b.a.l.l.s, 1 ounces each pound stracchino stracchino cheese or a blend of cheeses (see recipe introduction) cheese or a blend of cheeses (see recipe introduction)Salt and freshly ground black pepper cup extra virgin olive oil 1. Place a baking stone on the middle shelf of the oven (unless you know your oven well enough to place it on a different shelf) and preheat to 500F. If you do not have a stone, position a shelf in the lower third, but not on the bottom rung, of the oven. Lightly oil two 10-inch cake pans or two 12-inch pizza pans with olive oil.

2. Place the 4 dough b.a.l.l.s on a floured counter. Working with 1 at a time, and using a dowel or rolling pin, roll them out into flat disks, dusting the dough with flour as needed to prevent sticking. The pieces will probably extend only about 4 inches before springing back. Cover them with a kitchen towel and let rest for 5 minutes.

3. Roll out the pieces again, working from the center to the edges, extending them as much as possible before they resist and shrink back. If using a dowel, you should be able to roll each piece into a paper-thin circle 10 to 12 inches in diameter; if using a pin, the circle will be a bit thicker and 8 to 10 inches in diameter. Use only as much flour as you need to keep the dough from sticking to the dowel and counter. Cover the dough pieces and let them rest for at least another 5 minutes.

4. Regardless of the rolling method, lift 1 disk and gently hand stretch it to a full 12 inches in diameter. Work from the edge, not the center, and use the back of your hands and your knuckles to stretch the dough gradually into a larger and larger disk, as described in the toss-and-spin method toss-and-spin method. It should stretch to a thin, translucent sheet, like onionskin paper. Lay the stretched dough on 1 prepared pan and straighten it out so that it lays flat and covers the side walls. Repeat with another piece of dough and line the second pan in the same manner.

5. Divide the cheese into 2 equal portions, one for each pan. Using a tablespoon, drop the cheese in 8 dollops evenly over the dough in each pan. Sprinkle a pinch of salt and pepper over the cheese dollops. Then, stretch out the remaining 2 pieces of dough in the same way. Lay 1 dough piece over the top of each pan, matching up the edges of the top and bottom layers and pressing them together to seal. Using a small knife, cut 5 small slits in the top of each focaccia for vents. Drizzle 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over the top of each focaccia, and then sprinkle the top with a pinch of salt.

6. Place 1 focaccia either on the stone or on the lower oven shelf. Bake for about 10 minutes, or until the top crust develops a number of golden brown streaks or patches. Remove the finished focaccia from the oven and immediately remove it from the pan with a spatula, first inverting it onto a plate and then turning it right side up on a cutting board. Using a large knife, cut the focaccia into a cross-hatch pattern, 2 cuts in each direction, to form 9 pieces. Serve immediately. Bake and serve the second focaccia in the same way.

PITA.

Here is a translation of the definition of pita pita in in The Dictionary of Common Modern Greek: The Dictionary of Common Modern Greek: "1. A food or sweet made with phyllo dough and with different ingredients, which is baked in an oven; pita can be made with cheese "1. A food or sweet made with phyllo dough and with different ingredients, which is baked in an oven; pita can be made with cheese (tiropita) (tiropita), spinach (spanakopita) (spanakopita), pumpkin or squash (kolokithopita) (kolokithopita), or meat (kreatopita) (kreatopita)." This first definition continues, explaining that pita is also used as a slang term for "to flatten someone or something," as in "I made him into pita," or "A trailer truck fell onto my car and made it into pita." A second definition follows: "A type of unleavened bread, flat and usually round." This first definition continues, explaining that pita is also used as a slang term for "to flatten someone or something," as in "I made him into pita," or "A trailer truck fell onto my car and made it into pita." A second definition follows: "A type of unleavened bread, flat and usually round."

Many Americans are familiar with the most famous member of the pita family, spanakopita spanakopita, but few are aware of the many variations that exist. I was fortunate enough to come under the tutelage of Antigone (Ann) and Soterios (Sam) Tsimikas and their daughter, Evdoxia (Yvonne). The Tsimikas family owns a restaurant and pizzeria in Cranston, Rhode Island. Antigone still makes the traditional pitas that she learned in her village of Megaro in the Macedonian region of northern Greece near Epirus, the most famous pita region. Evdoxia has become somewhat of a historian and anthropologist of her heritage. They served as my pita mentors and showed me how to make the following pies.

The main difference between the Greek pita and Ligurian focaccia col formaggio focaccia col formaggio is the number of layers of dough. Most pitas are multileaf pies with various fillings. They can be made with commercial phyllo dough, as is usual in Greek American homes, but the authentic village method is to make a thin dough in the same manner as the dough for is the number of layers of dough. Most pitas are multileaf pies with various fillings. They can be made with commercial phyllo dough, as is usual in Greek American homes, but the authentic village method is to make a thin dough in the same manner as the dough for focaccia col formaggio. focaccia col formaggio. Since hand-rolled dough is not normally made as thin as commercial phyllo dough, many Middle Eastern and Greek markets now carry a product called village phyllo, which is a slightly thicker leaf ( Since hand-rolled dough is not normally made as thin as commercial phyllo dough, many Middle Eastern and Greek markets now carry a product called village phyllo, which is a slightly thicker leaf (phyllo means "leaf"), similar to the hand rolled version. In other words, if you can find a source for village phyllo, you can make the following pitas-and even means "leaf"), similar to the hand rolled version. In other words, if you can find a source for village phyllo, you can make the following pitas-and even focaccia col formaggio focaccia col formaggio-without making the dough.

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PRASOPITA.

This leek-filled pie is the first pita that Antigone and Evdoxia taught me. It is traditionally baked in a large round pan, like a big cake pan, but can also be made in a sheet pan if you are using store-bought, rectangular village phyllo. The following steps are for a round pita made with hand-rolled dough. This is a labor-intensive project-it takes time to roll out all the layers-but you cannot buy anything like these hand-rolled pitas. Antigone is picky about her feta, preferring a high-quality creamy style, in the tradition of her village. The pita will work with a crumbly feta, though the filling will not be as smooth.Makes one 14-inch pita2 bunches thin leeks (about 6 leeks total), including tender green tops, finely chopped2 eggs1 pound creamy feta cheese cup ricotta cheese cup small-curd full-fat cottage cheese teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste20 pita dough pita dough b.a.l.l.s, 1 ounces each b.a.l.l.s, 1 ounces each cup unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted, or olive oil 1. Put the leeks into a saute pan, cover, place over medium heat, and steam the leeks in their own moisture for about 5 minutes, or until tender. Remove from the heat, uncover the pan, and set aside to cool for at least 15 minutes.

2. In a bowl, combine the eggs and the 3 cheeses and stir until smooth. Add the cooled leeks, mix well, and season with the pepper. (The feta should provide enough salt.) 3. Preheat the oven to 375F. Brush the bottom and sides of a 14-inch cake pan with a little of the b.u.t.ter. Place the dough b.a.l.l.s on a floured counter and flatten them with your palm. Working with 1 ball at a time, and using a dowel or rolling pin, roll them out as far as they will go without springing back. The pieces will probably extend only about 4 inches. Cover them with a kitchen towel and let them relax for 10 to 15 minutes.

4. Roll and stretch out 1 piece of dough into a paper-thin disk 14 inches in diameter, using the process described in steps 3 and 4 described in steps 3 and 4 of the Focaccia col Formaggio di Recco. Lay the stretched dough flat on the bottom of the pan and brush the surface with a little b.u.t.ter. Repeat with 9 more dough pieces, brus.h.i.+ng each one with b.u.t.ter, for a total of 10 layers. of the Focaccia col Formaggio di Recco. Lay the stretched dough flat on the bottom of the pan and brush the surface with a little b.u.t.ter. Repeat with 9 more dough pieces, brus.h.i.+ng each one with b.u.t.ter, for a total of 10 layers.

5. Spoon half of the leek-cheese filling into the pan on top of the dough layers, spreading it into an even layer. Roll out 2 more pieces of dough in the same manner and lay them on top of the filling, brus.h.i.+ng each one with b.u.t.ter after you place it in the pan. Spoon the remaining filling on top, again spreading it into an even layer.

6. Roll out the remaining 8 pieces of dough in the same manner, but make them a little larger, so that they will extend beyond the pan rim. Add them to the pan one at a time, brus.h.i.+ng the top of each one with b.u.t.ter. After you brush the top layer with b.u.t.ter, crinkle it so that it is wrinkled rather than smooth. Crimp the overhanging dough into an edge, or lip, and tuck the edge inside the rim of the pan.

7. Place the pan on the middle shelf of the oven and bake for 40 to 50 minutes, or until the top layer is a rich golden brown. Remove the pan from the oven to a cooling rack. Let the pita cool for 5 minutes before cutting it into wedges. Serve hot.

Filling Variations Spanakopita There are many versions of this cla.s.sic spinach pie, but this is the way Antigone Tsimikas learned to make it in her village.1 pound baby spinach, coa.r.s.ely chopped1 small bunch scallions, including tender green tops, finely chopped2 eggs1 pound creamy feta cheese cup ricotta cheese cup full-fat small-curd cottage cheese2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste 1. Put the spinach and scallions into a saute pan, cover, place over medium heat, and steam the vegetables in their own moisture for about 5 minutes, or until tender. Remove from the heat, uncover the pan, and set aside to cool for at least 15 minutes.

2. In a bowl, combine the eggs and the 3 cheeses and stir until smooth. Add the cooled vegetables and dill, mix well, and season with the pepper. (The feta should provide enough salt.) Proceed as directed for Prasopita. Prasopita.

Tssouknidopita Mature nettles have stinging needlelike hairs that make them nearly impossible to handle, but baby nettles have a delicate, wonderful flavor and are not p.r.i.c.kly. Look for them in specialty produce markets or farmers' markets. Subst.i.tute 1 pound baby nettle leaves for the spinach in the Spanakopita Spanakopita recipe and proceed as directed. recipe and proceed as directed.

Kolokithopita b.u.t.ternut squash is the best, but sweet pumpkin and even acorn or other golden squash varieties can be used in this rich autumn pita. In the absence of a fresh squash, use a 1-pound can of pumpkin Puree.1 medium-to-large b.u.t.ternut squash1 tablespoon sugar, or to taste2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted teaspoon salt, or to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste 1. Preheat the oven to 375F. Place the squash on a sheet pan and bake for about 45 minutes, or until tender when pierced with a knife. Remove from the oven and let cool for 15 minutes.

2. Cut the squash in half and sc.r.a.pe out and discard the seeds. Scoop out the flesh, measure out 2 cups, and place in a bowl. Add the sugar and b.u.t.ter and stir until the mixture breaks down into a coa.r.s.e Puree. Season with the salt and pepper. Proceed as directed for Prasopita. Prasopita.

Tiropita This Greek cheese pita is closest to the focaccia col formaggio. focaccia col formaggio. I think of it as the missing link between Greece and Liguria. In fact, this filling could be used in the I think of it as the missing link between Greece and Liguria. In fact, this filling could be used in the focaccia col formaggio focaccia col formaggio in place of the Recco version, for what we could then call a Greek in place of the Recco version, for what we could then call a Greek p.i.s.sa. p.i.s.sa.

4 eggs1 pound creamy feta cheese cup ricotta cheese cup small-curd, full-fat cottage cheeseIn a bowl, combine the eggs and the cheeses and stir until smooth. Proceed as directed for Prasopita. Prasopita.

Acknowledgments

Searching for perfect pizza really has become an American pastime, right up there with baseball and going to the movies, so I'm thrilled to have been able to give voice to one such adventure. But this book could never have happened without four things: extraordinary pizzaioli pizzaioli, fellow pizza hunters, dedicated recipe testers, and an amazing editorial team. There have been so many people who have been part of this book that I risk leaving out some, so I ask in advance for your forgiveness if I have somehow omitted thanking you, especially those whom Susan and I met while on the road who offered suggestions of great pizzerias or pizza-making tips.I would love to list every pizzeria that we heard about or visited, especially since, for literary reasons, many didn't make it into the narrative. However, rather than risk offending those who may be inadvertently omitted, let me give you the web address of one of my favorite sites, www.pizzatherapy.com, run by Albert Grande. He's done a fabulous job compiling favorite pizzerias by region, along with comments from, well, from people like you. For food fanatics at the deepest level, I suggest visiting www.chowhound.com, originated by Jim Leff; the various message boards have some great, though highly picky, commentaries on pizza as well as on just about every type of food imaginable. This site will lead you to others, many of which magically are born just when you may need them. One of my favorites is www.fat-guy.com, chronicling the adventures of one of the truly great pizza hunters (and all-around food hunters) I've ever read, Steven A. Shaw, aka the Fat Guy (his writings can also be found at www.egullet.com, another exciting web-zine for serious food fanatics).I also want to thank Marc Botts of Pizza Today Pizza Today magazine ( magazine (www.pizzatoday.com), and Tom Boyles of Pizza Marketing Quarterly Pizza Marketing Quarterly, both of whom were very helpful in my research. Also thanks to Tom Lehman, for his excellent technical columns.Special thanks to Gerard Ruggieri of Atwood World Travel for organizing our tour of Italy.To the many pizza hunters, pizzaioli pizzaioli, colleagues, and friends who helped in many ways, thank you all: John Ash, Mario Batali, Rick and Deann Bayless, Linda Beaulieu, Ed Behr, Andy and Rachel Berliner, Chris and Marco Bianco, Gary Bimonte, the Bis...o...b..others, Howard Brownstein, Pasquale Bruno Jr. (The Great Chicago-Style Pizza Cookbook), Rosario Buona.s.sisi (Pizza: From Its Italian Origins to the Modern Table), Howie Buten, Alan, Katherine, and Rose Cahn, Linda Carucci, Brad Ca.s.sidy, Paul Castelucci Jr., Gail Ciampa, Michele Condurro, Flo Consiglio, Domenico DeMarco, Francesco Farris, Carol Field, Margaret Fox, Jeff and Alyson Frank, Peter, Robin, Joe, and Steve Friedman, Mark Furstenburg, Chris and Gary Garafano, Francee Garcia, Steve Garner, George Germon, Michael Goldfarb, Philip, Colleen, and Elizabeth Goodrich, Dr. Phyllis Greenwald, Ruth Gresser, Norma and Sherman Hillelson, June Jacobs, Kate Jansen, Pamela Sheldon Johns (Pizza Napoletana!), Paul Kamuf, Robert Kedzlie, Kathleen Kennedy, Johanne Killeen, Brian Kingsford, Roxanne Klein, Joel, Becca, Quinn, and Cloe Kostman, Ed Ladou, Jim Lahey, Paula Lambert, Sarah Lagrotteria, Bonnie Tandy Lebang, David Lebovitz, Ellen Liberman, Ron Manville, Morimoto Masaharu, Alfonso Mattozzi, Angela Miller, Emily Wise Miller, Tracy O'Grady, Jonathan Osler, Antonio Pace, Mial Parker, Tamar Peltz, Buncky and Marcantonio Pezzini, Paige Poulos, Walter and Carmella Potenza, Ria Ramsey, Christopher Reinhart, Fred and Patty Reinhart, Harry Reinhart, Phyllis Reinhart, Rudy Reinhart, Hal Robinson, David Rosengarten, Vincent Rossi, William Rubel, Andy and Marla Ryan, Jose Salguerio, Cindy Salvato, Sante Salvoni, Fred Scarpulla, Ursula Schulz, Dennis Schwakopf, Art Smith, Paul Starkman, Jeffrey Steingarten, Vince Tacconelli, Greg Tompkins, the entire Tsimikas family, Bill Twieg, Steven Uhr, Bill and Suzie Van Wyck, Alice Waters, Joanne Weir, Frankie Whitman, Leah and Sarah Whitman-Salkin, Faith Willinger, John Woolley, all the culinary managers at the Sur la Table, Central Market, and other cooking schools around the country where I taught and then hunted (or hunted and then taught), and all the restaurateurs and pizzaioli pizzaioli who invited us into their pa.s.sionate pizza world. who invited us into their pa.s.sionate pizza world.Many thanks to the over 100 recipe testers, many of whom are members of the Bread Baker's List, a wonderful e-group of serious baking enthusiasts (www.bread-bakers.com), who taught me as much as I taught them about making pizza at home: Dena Allbee, Nancy Allen, Bill Almond, Pedro Arellano III, Valda Baily, Dave Barrett, Kevin Bell, Ken Bird, Don Bischoff, Mary Blender, Kathy Bluestone, Dan Bolyard, Bonni Lee Brown, Nora Brown, Robert Scott Campbell, Rich Cardillo, Harold Chapman, Taimi Clark, Jim Clayton, Alan Connell, Chris Dalrymple, Carolyn Dandalides, Leigh Davisson, Cindy DeCesare, Robert Dempsey, Kathy Destadio, Maija Dixon, Reggie Dwork, Barbara Edwards, Jill Farrimond, Brad Feagins, Ellen Fenster, Natalie Fine, Carol Fisher, Sue M. Ford, Marsha Fouks, Sue Freeman, Lorna Friedlein, Wil Gatliff, Dave Glaze, Seth G.o.din, Ann Gunnett, Dan Haggarty, Ann Hamilton, Donna Handley, Charles Harrison, Nico Harrison, Dulcey h.e.l.ler, Ross Hendrickson, Michael Hofstetter, Uma Iyer, Alan Jackson, Lis Jackson, David Jimenez, Phyllis Johnpoll, Keith Johnson, Anjali Jos.h.i.+, Karen Keogh, Jazzbel and Irena Key, Rose Kish, Pat Kleinberg, Dan and Elizabeth Klinger, Jane Koca, Bob Koontz, Sandy Krause, Helen Lacey, Cheryl Lamberty, Bob Leonard Jr., Sandra Levine, Karen Lichti, Gloria Linnell, Jay Lofstead, Rachael Lohr, Roz Macy, Charlene Magee, Ted Manka, Joanie Martin, Ann McCann, Yvonne McCarthy, Ben McGehee, Joe Mielke, Melissa Miller, Rosemary Moore, Beth Muroff, M.L. Myers, Erin Nesmith, Eve Ng, Patrick O'Brien, Ed Okie, Mary O'Neill, Mich.e.l.le Ossiander, Jeffrey Palmer, Lynne Paschetag, Ronna Payne, Art Perrin, Suzanne Pickett, Janis Pretzlav, Ilene Rachford, Linda Rawson, Herman Reinhart, Roxanne Rieske, Pat Robb, Wendy Robinson, Debby Rogers, JoAnn Ruppert, Georgia Sabourin, Joanne Sawyer, Carolyn Schaffner, Barbara Schmitt, Dan Schwarz, Richard Scotty, Steve Shelton, Liz Simpson, Amy Smereck, Jim Souter, Pat Stewart, Mark and Vanessa Strobel, Amy Stromberg, Larry Tannenbaum, Adam Tenner, Robby Thompson, Andreas Wagner, Kyle Warendorf, William Welch, Evie Werthmann, Barbara Westfield, Marlene White, Allan Wirth, Larry Wright, Rita Yaezel, and Michael Zusman.To my colleagues at Johnson & Wales University, who provided the scheduling flexibility and resources I needed to manage writing, teaching, and pizza hunting, especially Dr. John Yena, Dr. John Bowen, Karl Guggenmos, Paul McVety, Martha Crawford, Pam Peters, Kevin Duffy, Steve s.h.i.+pley, Ciril Hitz, and librarian Barbara Janson. And to my students, the future culinary stars of America, especially those who helped with the final tweaking of the recipes.Thanks to my agent Pam Bernstein.And thanks to the brilliant editorial team at Ten Speed Press, headed by my editor, Aaron Wehner, and art director Nancy Austin, as well as to publisher Kirsty Melville and editorial director Lorena Jones. I loved the collaborative process that transformed my words into better words, then a beautiful design, and ultimately this book, of which I am very proud. A special thanks to Sharon Silva for her inspired copyediting, as well as to proofreader Jasmine Star and indexer Ken DellaPenta. My grat.i.tude to photographer Maren Caruso, who imaginatively brought aspects of the hunt to life, and to the folks at Pizzetta 211 for letting us shoot in their wonderful pizzeria. And an overdue thanks to Dennis Hayes, Gonzalo Ferreyra, and Mark Anderson, as well as to my publicist, Lisa Regul.And finally, to my wife, Susan, who not only went on many of the pizza hunts and brought a discerning palate to the quest, but also endured the endless marathon writing and testing sessions. As always, she was there for me from start to finish.