Food Matters Part 25

2 tablespoons olive oil to pound ground lamb, beef, turkey, or chicken; or 1 small head cauliflower, cored and roughly choppedSalt and freshly ground black pepper1 pound of any fresh mushrooms, sliced2 medium onions or 1 large onion, chopped cup vermicelli, preferably whole wheat, broken into 2-inch-long or shorter lengths, or other pasta1 cup coa.r.s.e-or medium-grind bulgur1 tablespoon tomato paste (optional)2 cups vegetable stock, or water, heated to the boiling point cup chopped fresh parsley leaves, for garnish

1 Put the oil in a large skillet or saucepan that can later be covered and turn the heat to medium. Add the meat or cauliflower, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally to break it up, until browned all over, about 10 minutes. Remove from the pan and spoon off all but a couple tablespoons of the fat. Put the oil in a large skillet or saucepan that can later be covered and turn the heat to medium. Add the meat or cauliflower, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally to break it up, until browned all over, about 10 minutes. Remove from the pan and spoon off all but a couple tablespoons of the fat.

2 Put the pan over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and onions; cook, stirring, until everything is soft, about 5 minutes. Add the vermicelli and the bulgur and cook, stirring, until coated with b.u.t.ter or oil. Return the meat or cauliflower to the pan and add all the remaining ingredients. Turn the heat to low, and cover. Cook for 10 minutes. Put the pan over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and onions; cook, stirring, until everything is soft, about 5 minutes. Add the vermicelli and the bulgur and cook, stirring, until coated with b.u.t.ter or oil. Return the meat or cauliflower to the pan and add all the remaining ingredients. Turn the heat to low, and cover. Cook for 10 minutes.

3 Turn off the heat and let the mixture sit for 15 minutes more. Taste and adjust the seasoning, fluff with a fork, and serve, garnished with a sprinkling of parsley. Turn off the heat and let the mixture sit for 15 minutes more. Taste and adjust the seasoning, fluff with a fork, and serve, garnished with a sprinkling of parsley.

Bean and Vegetable Chili

Makes: 6 to 8 servings .

Time: About 45 minutes, with cooked or canned beans Time: About 45 minutes, with cooked or canned beans

A traditional chili made special. Kidney beans or pinto beans are a good starting point, but also consider chickpeas, black beans, cannellini, navy beans, cranberry beans, marrow beans, borlotti, or even lentils (which break down and lend a terrific meatiness). Any or all of these will give you a creamy, earthy bowl of chili.

The same flexibility goes for the vegetables: You can swap the eggplant, zucchini, and mushrooms for almost anything you have in the fridge. And don't hesitate to toss in a cup of cooked grains like wheat berries, wild rice, or barley.

3 tablespoons olive oil pound ground beef, pork, turkey, or chicken (optional)Salt and freshly ground black pepper1 whole onion, unpeeled; plus 1 small onion, minced1 tablespoon minced garlic1 or 2 small eggplants (peeled if you like), cubed1 medium zucchini, chopped; or use more eggplant1 or 2 carrots, chopped1 cup quartered mushrooms or a handful of rinsed dried porcini1 fresh or dried hot chile, seeded and minced, or to taste (optional)1 teaspoon ground c.u.min, or to taste1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano leaves or teaspoon dried oregano1 cup peeled, seeded, chopped tomato (canned is fine; don't bother to drain)4 cups cooked kidney beans or pinto beans, liquid reserved (canned are fine)2 cups vegetable stock, or water, more or less as needed (optional)Chopped fresh cilantro or parsley for garnish

1 Put the oil in a large pot over medium heat, and when the oil is hot add the meat if you're using it. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until it is well browned all over, about 10 minutes. Remove the meat from the pan and drain off all but 3 tablespoons of the fat. (If you're skipping the meat, put the oil in the pan and start the recipe here.) Put the oil in a large pot over medium heat, and when the oil is hot add the meat if you're using it. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until it is well browned all over, about 10 minutes. Remove the meat from the pan and drain off all but 3 tablespoons of the fat. (If you're skipping the meat, put the oil in the pan and start the recipe here.)

2 Return the pan to the stove, this time over medium-high heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook and stir until just softened, about a minute. Add the vegetables, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to soften and become fragrant, adjusting the heat so that nothing scorches. After about 10 minutes, the vegetables should start to caramelize a bit and dry out. Return the pan to the stove, this time over medium-high heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook and stir until just softened, about a minute. Add the vegetables, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to soften and become fragrant, adjusting the heat so that nothing scorches. After about 10 minutes, the vegetables should start to caramelize a bit and dry out.

3 Add the seasonings and stir, then add the tomatoes and beans, with enough of their liquid to submerge everything (use some stock or water if you don't have enough). Bring the mixture to a boil and cook, stirring occasionally and adding more liquid if necessary, until the beans are very tender and the flavors have mellowed, about 15 minutes. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and garnish with cilantro. Serve with brown rice, crackers, tortilla chips, or whole grain bread. Add the seasonings and stir, then add the tomatoes and beans, with enough of their liquid to submerge everything (use some stock or water if you don't have enough). Bring the mixture to a boil and cook, stirring occasionally and adding more liquid if necessary, until the beans are very tender and the flavors have mellowed, about 15 minutes. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and garnish with cilantro. Serve with brown rice, crackers, tortilla chips, or whole grain bread.

Bean and Vegetable Chili with Tofu: Instead of the ground meat, crumble as much as 1 pound of tofu into the hot oil in Step 1. Instead of the ground meat, crumble as much as 1 pound of tofu into the hot oil in Step 1.

Ca.s.soulet with Lots of Vegetables

Makes: 4 to 6 servings .

Time: 40 minutes Time: 40 minutes

Ca.s.soulet is one of the best of the myriad of traditional European dishes that combine beans and meat to produce wonderful rich, robust stews. This recipe maintains that spirit, but is much faster, easier, less expensive, and more contemporary, emphasizing the beans and vegetables over meat. (That probably makes it more, more, not less, traditional, since meat was always hard to come by before the mid-twentieth century.) not less, traditional, since meat was always hard to come by before the mid-twentieth century.) The main recipe starts with already cooked beans or canned beans and is ready relatively fast. To begin with dried beans, see the variation; it takes more time, but the results are even better.

2 tablespoons olive oil1 pound Italian sausages, bone-in pork chops, confit duck legs, or duck b.r.e.a.s.t.s, or a combination1 tablespoon chopped garlic2 leeks or onions, trimmed, washed, and sliced2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch lengths3 celery stalks, cut into -inch pieces2 medium zucchinis or 1 small head green cabbage, cut into -inch piecesSalt and freshly ground black pepper4 cups chopped tomatoes, with their juice (canned are fine) cup fresh chopped parsley leaves1 tablespoon fresh chopped thyme leaves2 bay leaves4 cups cooked white beans (canned are OK), drained and liquid reserved in any case2 cups stock, dry red wine, bean cooking liquid, or water, plus more as needed1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste

1 Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add the meat, and cook, turning as needed, until the meat is deeply browned on all sides, about 10 minutes. Remove from the pan and drain off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add the meat, and cook, turning as needed, until the meat is deeply browned on all sides, about 10 minutes. Remove from the pan and drain off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat.

2 Turn the heat to medium and add the garlic, leeks or onions, carrots, celery, and zucchini or cabbage; and sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, their liquid, the reserved meat, and the herbs and bring to a boil. Add the beans; bring to a boil again, stirring occasionally, then reduce the heat so the mixture bubbles gently but continuously. Cook for about 20 minutes, adding the liquid when the mixture gets thick and the vegetables are melting away. Turn the heat to medium and add the garlic, leeks or onions, carrots, celery, and zucchini or cabbage; and sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, their liquid, the reserved meat, and the herbs and bring to a boil. Add the beans; bring to a boil again, stirring occasionally, then reduce the heat so the mixture bubbles gently but continuously. Cook for about 20 minutes, adding the liquid when the mixture gets thick and the vegetables are melting away.

3 Fish out the meat and remove the bones and skin as needed. Chop into chunks and return to the pot along with the cayenne. Cook another minute or two to warm through, then taste and adjust seasoning if necessary and serve. Fish out the meat and remove the bones and skin as needed. Chop into chunks and return to the pot along with the cayenne. Cook another minute or two to warm through, then taste and adjust seasoning if necessary and serve.

Slow-Cooked Ca.s.soulet: Start with dried beans. After browning the meat in Step 1, leave it in the pan and add pound dry white beans (they'll cook faster if you soak them first; Chapter 10) and enough water or stock to just cover. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and cook, stirring occasionally, for about an hour. Meanwhile, in a separate pan with another 2 tablespoons of olive oil, cook the vegetables as directed in Step 2. Add them to the pot of beans along with the tomatoes and herbs. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a gentle bubble and cook, stirring occasionally, until the beans are tender, adding more liquid as necessary to keep them moist. This will take anywhere from another 30 to 60 minutes, depending on the age of your dried beans. Start with dried beans. After browning the meat in Step 1, leave it in the pan and add pound dry white beans (they'll cook faster if you soak them first; Chapter 10) and enough water or stock to just cover. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and cook, stirring occasionally, for about an hour. Meanwhile, in a separate pan with another 2 tablespoons of olive oil, cook the vegetables as directed in Step 2. Add them to the pot of beans along with the tomatoes and herbs. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a gentle bubble and cook, stirring occasionally, until the beans are tender, adding more liquid as necessary to keep them moist. This will take anywhere from another 30 to 60 minutes, depending on the age of your dried beans.

Chickpea Stew with Roasted Chicken

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: About 1 hour with cooked chickpeas Time: About 1 hour with cooked chickpeas

Chickpeas are quite possibly the most flavorful legume; for that reason, the chicken in this recipe is truly optional-with or without it, you'll get a hearty, wonderful dish. Subst.i.tute lamb chops for the chicken if you like, or simplify the recipe by replacing the chicken with a few ounces of cooked sausage or chorizo (or even shrimp or squid) in Step 4 when you combine the vegetables and the chickpeas.

4 cups cooked chickpeas or canned chickpeas, favas, or lima beans, drained but reserving the liquid2 cups bean cooking liquid, any stock, or waterSalt and freshly ground black pepper4 tablespoons olive oil4 chicken pieces, about 1 pound; preferably legs or thighs (optional)1 or 2 small eggplants or medium zucchinis, chopped1 pound fresh mushrooms (any kind), trimmed and sliced1 large onion, chopped1 celery stalk, chopped1 carrot, chopped1 tablespoon minced garlic1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger1 teaspoon ground coriander2 teaspoons ground c.u.min2 cups peeled, seeded, chopped tomato (canned is fine; don't bother to drain)Chopped fresh cilantro or parsley leaves for garnish

1 Heat the oven to 400F. Warm the beans in a large pot with the liquid; sprinkle with some salt and pepper. Adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles slowly. Heat the oven to 400F. Warm the beans in a large pot with the liquid; sprinkle with some salt and pepper. Adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles slowly.

2 Put 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large, deep skillet over medium heat, add the chicken, sprinkle with salt and pepper and brown well on all sides, for about 10 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a small roasting pan and set aside. Put 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large, deep skillet over medium heat, add the chicken, sprinkle with salt and pepper and brown well on all sides, for about 10 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a small roasting pan and set aside.

3 Pour off all but 3 tablespoons of the fat and return the pan to medium heat. Add the eggplant or zucchini and the mushrooms, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside. Put the chicken in the oven. Pour off all but 3 tablespoons of the fat and return the pan to medium heat. Add the eggplant or zucchini and the mushrooms, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside. Put the chicken in the oven.

4 Add another tablespoon of oil to the skillet. Still over medium heat, add the onion, celery, and carrot. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic, ginger, coriander, c.u.min, and tomato and cook for 5 minutes more, stirring occasionally and sc.r.a.ping the bottom of the pan to loosen any brown bits. Add the mixture to the simmering beans along with the reserved eggplant or zucchini and mushrooms. Add another tablespoon of oil to the skillet. Still over medium heat, add the onion, celery, and carrot. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic, ginger, coriander, c.u.min, and tomato and cook for 5 minutes more, stirring occasionally and sc.r.a.ping the bottom of the pan to loosen any brown bits. Add the mixture to the simmering beans along with the reserved eggplant or zucchini and mushrooms.

5 When the chicken has cooked for about 15 minutes, check for doneness (the juices will run clear if you make a small cut in the meat near the bone). When it is ready, remove it from the oven. When the vegetables are tender, put the chickpeas and the vegetables on a large, deep platter; top with the chicken, and drizzle with its juices; then garnish, and serve. When the chicken has cooked for about 15 minutes, check for doneness (the juices will run clear if you make a small cut in the meat near the bone). When it is ready, remove it from the oven. When the vegetables are tender, put the chickpeas and the vegetables on a large, deep platter; top with the chicken, and drizzle with its juices; then garnish, and serve.

Chicken Not Pie

Makes: 4 Servings .

Time: 30 minutes Time: 30 minutes

Can chicken potpie still be considered comfort food if you leave out the crust? I think so, especially since this version includes lots of creamy potatoes, all the familiar vegetables, and a couple of surprises to boot. Frozen peas are a good subst.i.tute when fresh peas aren't available; but if asparagus is out of season, try ribbons of cabbage or chard. Serve this with Easy Whole Grain Flatbread, Almost No-Work Whole Grain Bread, or Hybrid Quick Bread. It's also good over plain brown rice or whole wheat fettuccini.

cup olive oil2 leeks, washed well and diced, including some of the green partSalt and freshly ground black pepper1 cup dry white wine or water1 cup vegetable stock or more water teaspoon chopped fresh thyme or tarragon leaves or a good pinch dried thyme or tarragon2 boneless chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s (1 whole breast, split in half), or 4 whole chicken tenderloins2 or 3 large all-purpose potatoes (like redskin or Yukon Gold), peeled if you like and cut into 1-inch cubes2 medium carrots or parsnips, cut into coins pound sugar snap peas or snow peas, trimmed and strings removed if necessary; or 1 cup sh.e.l.l peas (frozen are fine) pound asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juiceChopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish

1 Put half of oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the leeks, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the wine, stock, and herb; bring to a boil, and let bubble for a minute or two. Put half of oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the leeks, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the wine, stock, and herb; bring to a boil, and let bubble for a minute or two.

2 Add the chicken, turn the heat down to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the meat is barely cooked through, 5 or 6 minutes. Remove the chicken. Add the chicken, turn the heat down to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the meat is barely cooked through, 5 or 6 minutes. Remove the chicken.