Food Matters Part 26

3 Add the potatoes and bring to a boil; reduce the heat so the liquid bubbles enthusiastically; and cook until the potatoes are almost tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the carrots or parsnips and cook for another couple of minutes. By now the liquid should be thickening; if not, turn the heat up and cook another couple of minutes, stirring to prevent the vegetables from sticking. Add the remaining oil gradually, stirring vigorously with the back of a spoon as you do so. Add the potatoes and bring to a boil; reduce the heat so the liquid bubbles enthusiastically; and cook until the potatoes are almost tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the carrots or parsnips and cook for another couple of minutes. By now the liquid should be thickening; if not, turn the heat up and cook another couple of minutes, stirring to prevent the vegetables from sticking. Add the remaining oil gradually, stirring vigorously with the back of a spoon as you do so.

4 Add the peas and asparagus to the pot. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are brightly colored and just tender, about 3 minutes. Chop or slice the chicken and return it to the pot, along with any juices that have acc.u.mulated and the lemon juice. When warmed through, taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve in shallow bowls, garnished with the parsley. Add the peas and asparagus to the pot. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are brightly colored and just tender, about 3 minutes. Chop or slice the chicken and return it to the pot, along with any juices that have acc.u.mulated and the lemon juice. When warmed through, taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve in shallow bowls, garnished with the parsley.

Stuffed Chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s with Pan-Grilled Corn

Makes: 4 to 8 servings .

Time: 45 minutes Time: 45 minutes

Everyone likes something fancy on occasion, and though most recipes for stuffed chicken are a pain, this one uses whole boneless b.r.e.a.s.t.s to enclose the filling, requiring only three ties around each to hold things together. (And you use just one skillet!) Think of an inside-out fajita, stuffed with peppers and onions, then cooked and sliced. And you can try almost anything for the stuffing: leftover cooked vegetable, grains, or beans; nuts and plumped dried fruit; reconst.i.tuted dried mushrooms or dried tomatoes; or even slices of fresh fruit, like plums or peaches; keep the filling to less than a cup. (You can also use a different vegetable instead of the corn, and treat it the same way.)

3 tablespoons olive oil1 medium onion, choppedSalt and freshly ground black pepper1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped4 boneless chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s (about 1 pounds)6 ears fresh corn, shucked; or use about 4 cups of frozen corn1 fresh chile, like serrano or jalapeno, seeded if you like, and chopped1 tablespoon minced garlic2 tablespoons sherry or white wine vinegar, or the juice of 1 lime cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves

1 Heat the oven to 350F. Cut six 12-inch pieces of butcher twine. Put 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the onions, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, fairly dry and beginning to color, about 5 minutes. Add the peppers and cook, stirring frequently until the mixture softens and comes together a bit, another 3 minutes or so. Heat the oven to 350F. Cut six 12-inch pieces of butcher twine. Put 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the onions, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, fairly dry and beginning to color, about 5 minutes. Add the peppers and cook, stirring frequently until the mixture softens and comes together a bit, another 3 minutes or so.

2 Spread 2 chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s out on a work surface so that the side where the bones were is faceup; flatten them a bit with the bottom of a pot or the palm of your hand. Spread about cup of the onion mixture on top of each breast, then top with the remaining b.r.e.a.s.t.s, end to end, so that the tapered side is on the same side as the rounded side (this ensures a tidy roll and even cooking). Tie each stuffed breast in three places with twine. Sprinkle all sides with salt and pepper and roll them around in the same pan you used to cook the vegetables, coating them in whatever oil and juices remain in the pan. Transfer to the oven and bake, turning once, until the chicken is cooked through and opaque, 25 to 30 minutes. Spread 2 chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s out on a work surface so that the side where the bones were is faceup; flatten them a bit with the bottom of a pot or the palm of your hand. Spread about cup of the onion mixture on top of each breast, then top with the remaining b.r.e.a.s.t.s, end to end, so that the tapered side is on the same side as the rounded side (this ensures a tidy roll and even cooking). Tie each stuffed breast in three places with twine. Sprinkle all sides with salt and pepper and roll them around in the same pan you used to cook the vegetables, coating them in whatever oil and juices remain in the pan. Transfer to the oven and bake, turning once, until the chicken is cooked through and opaque, 25 to 30 minutes.

3 Remove the chicken from the pan and tent with foil. Set the pan over high heat and add the last tablespoon of oil. When the oil is hot, add the corn, chile, and garlic; let sit for a moment. As the corn browns, use a spatula to toss the corn so that each kernel is deeply browned on at least one side. Remove from the heat, then sprinkle with salt and pepper and stir in the vinegar or lime juice, a tablespoon or two of water, and the cilantro, sc.r.a.ping to stir up any browned bits from the pan. Remove the string from the chicken and slice crosswise into thin or thick pieces. Serve, with a big spoonful of the corn on the side. Remove the chicken from the pan and tent with foil. Set the pan over high heat and add the last tablespoon of oil. When the oil is hot, add the corn, chile, and garlic; let sit for a moment. As the corn browns, use a spatula to toss the corn so that each kernel is deeply browned on at least one side. Remove from the heat, then sprinkle with salt and pepper and stir in the vinegar or lime juice, a tablespoon or two of water, and the cilantro, sc.r.a.ping to stir up any browned bits from the pan. Remove the string from the chicken and slice crosswise into thin or thick pieces. Serve, with a big spoonful of the corn on the side.

Eggplant and Chicken Parmesan

Makes: 4 to 6 servings .

Time: About 1 hour Time: About 1 hour

Eggplant Parmesan is a lot of work. Here's a more straightforward version, with the vegetables and meat grilled or broiled instead of breaded and fried. You can skip the chicken if you like, and add other vegetables, like zucchini and portobello mushrooms; just grill them and layer on top of the eggplant and before the cheese.

For a simple vegetable gratin, omit the tomato sauce and layer any cooked vegetable you like (asparagus, broccoli, cauliflower, artichoke hearts, potatoes, fennel, leeks, spinach, onions, celery root, parsnips, Jerusalem artichokes, winter squash, or sweet potatoes) with the cheese (Gruyere and Swiss are nice alternatives). Finish with the seasoned bread crumb topping for a most excellent crust.

2 or 3 eggplants (about 2 pounds total), unpeeled, and cut crosswise into -inch slicesSalt1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for brus.h.i.+ngFreshly ground black pepperAbout pound boneless, skinless white meat chicken (breast, cutlets, or tenders), pounded to uniform thickness if necessary and blotted dry4 cups All-Purpose Tomato Sauce1 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more if you likeAbout 30 fresh basil leaves2 ounces grated or torn mozzarella cheese (optional)1 cup bread crumbs

1 If the eggplant is particularly large or full of seeds, sprinkle it with salt and set in a colander for at least 15 and up to 60 minutes. Rinse and pat dry. Heat the oven to 400F. Heat a charcoal or gas grill, or the broiler, and move the rack to about 4 inches from the heat source. (You can also use a stovetop grill pan here, heated over medium-high heat.) If the eggplant is particularly large or full of seeds, sprinkle it with salt and set in a colander for at least 15 and up to 60 minutes. Rinse and pat dry. Heat the oven to 400F. Heat a charcoal or gas grill, or the broiler, and move the rack to about 4 inches from the heat source. (You can also use a stovetop grill pan here, heated over medium-high heat.)

2 Brush the eggplant lightly on both sides with some oil and sprinkle with salt (if you didn't salt it earlier) and pepper. Grill or broil until browned on both sides, turning once or twice and brus.h.i.+ng with more oil if the eggplant looks dry. The idea is to keep the eggplant cooking steadily without burning, so adjust the heat and position as needed. The eggplant is usually ready in somewhere between 5 and 10 minutes. When done, set eggplant slices aside. Brush the eggplant lightly on both sides with some oil and sprinkle with salt (if you didn't salt it earlier) and pepper. Grill or broil until browned on both sides, turning once or twice and brus.h.i.+ng with more oil if the eggplant looks dry. The idea is to keep the eggplant cooking steadily without burning, so adjust the heat and position as needed. The eggplant is usually ready in somewhere between 5 and 10 minutes. When done, set eggplant slices aside.

3 Cut the chicken so you have 8 or so large pieces. Pound or press them a bit so they're evenly flat. Brush them all over with some oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill or broil the chicken, turning once, no more than 3 minutes per side (to check for doneness, cut into a piece with a thin-bladed knife; the center should still be slightly pink). Set the chicken aside. Cut the chicken so you have 8 or so large pieces. Pound or press them a bit so they're evenly flat. Brush them all over with some oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill or broil the chicken, turning once, no more than 3 minutes per side (to check for doneness, cut into a piece with a thin-bladed knife; the center should still be slightly pink). Set the chicken aside.

4 Lightly oil a 2-quart baking dish, then spoon a layer of the tomato sauce into the bottom. Top with a layer of eggplant, then a sprinkling of Parmesan, then a layer of chicken, and finally a few basil leaves. Repeat until all the ingredients are used. (There will probably be sauce left over; warm it up to pa.s.s at the table.) Toss the remaining Parmesan with the bread crumbs, and the mozzarella if you're using it. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon of olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, then toss again. Spread the bread crumb mixture evenly on top of the mozzarella. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the dish is bubbling hot. Serve hot or warm. Lightly oil a 2-quart baking dish, then spoon a layer of the tomato sauce into the bottom. Top with a layer of eggplant, then a sprinkling of Parmesan, then a layer of chicken, and finally a few basil leaves. Repeat until all the ingredients are used. (There will probably be sauce left over; warm it up to pa.s.s at the table.) Toss the remaining Parmesan with the bread crumbs, and the mozzarella if you're using it. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon of olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, then toss again. Spread the bread crumb mixture evenly on top of the mozzarella. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the dish is bubbling hot. Serve hot or warm.

Roasted Herb-Stuffed Vegetables

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: 50 minutes with cooked grains Time: 50 minutes with cooked grains

There's something not only satisfying but lovable about stuffed vegetables, which look appealing no matter what you use for filling. They're also a good opportunity to experiment with different grains and beans: brown rice, quinoa, couscous, lentils, white beans, wild rice, and wheat berries are all good choices. I often use leftover grains, and of course you can throw a little meat in there if you crave it-ground pork is most traditional, but just about anything will work; see the list below. In any case, add a salad and you've got the perfect weeknight dinner.

If you can create a hollow s.p.a.ce in the interior of a vegetable, you can stuff it; the best and easiest options are eggplants, bell peppers, tomatoes, zucchini, and summer squash. Acorn and other winter squash work as well, but you'll need to cook these first. In general, figure about 8 ounces of vegetable per person; so for four people, you'd use 4 small eggplants or 2 medium, 4 fat straight zucchini or yellow squash, 4 large tomatoes or bell peppers, or 2 acorn squash.

About 2 pounds of stuffable vegetables (see above) cup olive oil, plus more as neededUp to 2 cups of any leftover bean or vegetable (optional)2 cups cooked grains1 tablespoon minced garlic, or more1 cup chopped fresh parsley or basil leaves, plus more for garnish1 teaspoon fresh thyme or rosemary leaves, or teaspoon tarragonSalt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Heat the oven to 375F. For eggplant and squash, cut in half and use a spoon to scoop out a cavity. For tomatoes and peppers, slice off a lid to create a container and scoop out the insides. Discard the seeds and stringy pulp, but save any edible flesh and roughly chop it. Heat the oven to 375F. For eggplant and squash, cut in half and use a spoon to scoop out a cavity. For tomatoes and peppers, slice off a lid to create a container and scoop out the insides. Discard the seeds and stringy pulp, but save any edible flesh and roughly chop it.

2 If you have any edible vegetable left from hollowing out the cavity, or are using leftover beans or anything else, put 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the vegetable bits, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pieces are beginning to get tender and are relatively dry. If you're using only the grains and herbs for stuffing, skip to Step 3. If you have any edible vegetable left from hollowing out the cavity, or are using leftover beans or anything else, put 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the vegetable bits, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pieces are beginning to get tender and are relatively dry. If you're using only the grains and herbs for stuffing, skip to Step 3.

3 Mix together the cooked grains, garlic, herbs, and any other ingredients you like (see list below for suggestions). Sprinkle the grain mixture and the inside of the vegetables with salt and pepper, stuff them and, for tomatoes and peppers, replace the top slices. Spread half the remaining olive oil in a shallow roasting pan that will allow for a little room between the vegetables and put them in the pan. Sprinkle the tops with salt and pepper and put the roasting pan in the oven. Mix together the cooked grains, garlic, herbs, and any other ingredients you like (see list below for suggestions). Sprinkle the grain mixture and the inside of the vegetables with salt and pepper, stuff them and, for tomatoes and peppers, replace the top slices. Spread half the remaining olive oil in a shallow roasting pan that will allow for a little room between the vegetables and put them in the pan. Sprinkle the tops with salt and pepper and put the roasting pan in the oven.

Great Additions to Grain StuffingsCrumbled cooked sausage, diced chorizo, or any minced leftover (or fresh) meat or fishChopped nuts (pecans, pine nuts, walnuts, almonds)Olives or capersRaisins, currents, or dried cranberriesGrated Parmesan cheese or crumbled feta

4 Roast the vegetables for 20 to 40 minutes, until the flesh is tender and the stuffing is hot; the cooking time will vary depending on the vegetable. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature, drizzled with the rest of the olive oil and garnished with the remaining herbs. Roast the vegetables for 20 to 40 minutes, until the flesh is tender and the stuffing is hot; the cooking time will vary depending on the vegetable. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature, drizzled with the rest of the olive oil and garnished with the remaining herbs.

Stuffed Acorn and Other Winter Squash: Halve the squash, sc.r.a.pe out the seeds, and rub the inside with some olive oil; roast, cut side down, in a 375F oven for 25 minutes before stuffing as described in Step 3. Proceed with the recipe. Halve the squash, sc.r.a.pe out the seeds, and rub the inside with some olive oil; roast, cut side down, in a 375F oven for 25 minutes before stuffing as described in Step 3. Proceed with the recipe.

Modern Bouillabaisse

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: About an hour Time: About an hour

Traditionally, people living on the Mediterranean coast made bouillabaisse using whatever sc.r.a.p fish and market produce they had handy. Over the years, as people have become richer and fish more widely available, the vegetables have become almost an afterthought. In a way this recipe is a return to tradition, offering plenty of flexibility with the fish-firmer fish is usually better, so it holds together, but any fish will "work"-and plenty of vegetables. You can always add a few clams or mussels to the pot, or any other fish you like. Note that the cooking time here is largely for preparation; the stew simmers for only a few minutes.

Roasted Red Pepper Sauce is akin to the authentic rouille rouille, whether or not you choose to add any mayonnaise.

1 recipe Roasted Red Pepper Sauce (optional)2 tablespoons mayonnaise, preferably homemade (optional)1 tablespoon minced garlic, plus a little more for the rouille rouille if you're making it if you're making it2 tablespoons olive oil1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced2 leeks, white and tender green parts, trimmed and cut into coins (or use onions)Zest from 1 orangeBig pinch saffron (optional)1 dried hot chile, or a pinch of cayenne, or to taste1 sprig fresh tarragon (optional)2 cups chopped tomatoes (canned are fine; drain them first)About 1 pounds small red or white potatoes, peeled if you like and cut into wedgesAbout 1 pound almost any seafood, like monkfish, cod, scallops, squid, or shrimp; peeled, skinned, boned, and cut into chunks as needed2 carrots or parsnips, cut into coins2 stalks celery (with the leaves if you like), cut into chunks pound sugar snap peas or snow peas (optional)2 cups vegetable, shrimp, or fish stock, dry white wine or water, plus more as needed cup roughly chopped parsley leaves, or use chopped chervil or fennel fronds if you likeSalt and freshly ground black pepper1 or 2 whole grain baguettes, cut crosswise into slices and toasted if you like (optional)

1 If you're making the sauce ( If you're making the sauce (rouille), combine the red pepper sauce with a pinch of minced garlic and the mayonnaise if you're using it. Set aside for the flavors to blend.

2 Put the olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the fennel bulb, leeks, 1 tablespoon of garlic, and zest and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the saffron if you're using it, the chile or cayenne, and the tarragon if using and cook for about a minute. Add the tomatoes and potatoes and cover. Put the olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the fennel bulb, leeks, 1 tablespoon of garlic, and zest and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the saffron if you're using it, the chile or cayenne, and the tarragon if using and cook for about a minute. Add the tomatoes and potatoes and cover.

3 After about 5 minutes, lift the lid and stick a fork in the potatoes; if they're not yet beginning to get tender, cover and cook another couple of minutes. Try sticking the potatoes again; when the fork meets with just a little resistance, add the fish, carrots or parsnips, celery, snap peas or snow peas if you're using them, and stock, adding enough extra to just cover the fish and vegetables. After about 5 minutes, lift the lid and stick a fork in the potatoes; if they're not yet beginning to get tender, cover and cook another couple of minutes. Try sticking the potatoes again; when the fork meets with just a little resistance, add the fish, carrots or parsnips, celery, snap peas or snow peas if you're using them, and stock, adding enough extra to just cover the fish and vegetables.