Narrative of a Survey of the Intertropical and Western Coasts of Australia Volume I Part 19

On the branch of a tree near at hand were three turtles' heads; and since they had been placed there the young branches had expanded, causing us to wonder at first how the heads could have pa.s.sed over them. These remains of a turtle feast did not a.s.similate with our ideas of the character of the Aborigines of this country, and it was then thought much more probable to be a relic of the crew of the wrecked vessel; we have, however, since frequently noticed the same thing, which could only have been left by the natives. After examining the canoes we proceeded round the bay towards the wreck; in our way to it we pa.s.sed over a long coral flat which had been left dry by the ebbing tide.

On arriving at the wreck a melancholy scene presented itself. It would appear that she was thrown upon the rocks before she went to pieces; the upper part of her stern and hull as far forward as her mizen chains were entire and lying on the stern frame: about 100 yards off was her stem with part of her forecastle deck, and some of her bow timbers; these were the only connected parts remaining; the rest of her timbers, decks, masts, and yards were lying in a confused heap between them. By creeping under her stern, upon which her name was painted, she was found to be The Frederick, which s.h.i.+p we remembered to have sailed from Port Jackson during the early part of last year; search was made for any articles that might be useful to the survivors but nothing was found: the only part belonging to a boat that was noticed was a rudder, from which great hopes were entertained that the crew were enabled, by means of their boats, to escape from this inhospitable coast and effect an arrival at some habitable port. Timor appeared to us to be the only probable place, but we were there last June and nothing had then been heard of them. That the crew had been upon the island was certain, for oars and spars were found erected in the fissures of the rocks at the projections of the cape, evidently placed there by the crew to attract the attention of vessels pa.s.sing. The mizen mast and main topmast had been cut away, and there were a few marks of the axe upon her mainmast. The natives appeared to have taken notice of the ironwork, for some spike nails were found about their fireplaces; these traces, however, were not very recent, nor was it probable that any natives were upon the island at the time of our visit.

The hills about Cape Flinders and the low sh.o.r.es of the bay in which we found the wreck furnished Mr. Cunningham with a large collection of plants and seeds, and among them was a species of melaleuca, not hitherto known, and which Mr. Cunningham has described under the name of Melaleuca foliosa; he also found a mimusops, and a grevillea (Grevillea gibbosa) remarkable for its ligneous spherical capsules: and on the sandy sh.o.r.e at the south end of the bay we found and procured a large quant.i.ty of the bulbous roots of a crinum (angustifolium?).

July 15.

In a bay to the southward of the cutter's anchorage some mud oysters were found, which were not ill flavoured. Sh.e.l.lfish was abundant on the flats in Wreck Bay but we were unsuccessful with the hook and line, although surrounded by fish of various descriptions.

July 16.

On the 16th, as soon as day dawned, we left this anchorage. At sunset we anch.o.r.ed at the bottom of Princess Charlotte's Bay, in three fathoms, from which the low sh.o.r.e was visible as far as west; an opening among the back hills in the South-East probably affords a fresh stream, but as no break was observed on the beach we did not examine it further. About four miles from the anchorage was a small opening in the mangroves, but of too little importance to take any notice of.

July 17.

At daylight the next morning we were under sail and steering up the west side of the bay. The coast trends to the northward and continuing low and wooded is fronted by a sandy beach; several shoals and a range of low wooded islands, which were called Claremont Isles, now began to show themselves as we proceeded, and at sunset we anch.o.r.ed for the night under the island marked 2.

July 18.

The following day we pa.s.sed onward, leaving several low wooded isles to seaward, and steered obliquely towards the coast, which still possessed the same low and wooded appearance as yesterday.

Cape Sidmouth now came in sight, and as we approached it the shoals became much more numerous and dangerous, from being composed either of sand or of a brown-coloured rock. In the offing they are all of coral, the limits of which, from their colour, are so defined that you sail in perfect security; but near Cape Sidmouth the shoals are not visible until close by, and we were twice very nearly thrown upon them. As we advanced we left several low woody isles to seaward of our track; and at sunset anch.o.r.ed under a larger island than is usual hereabout, which, as it will always be a stopping place for vessels bound up the coast, was named Night Island.

July 19.

At nine o'clock the following morning, after a rainy disagreeable night, we proceeded and steered parallel with the sh.o.r.e. At half past eleven o'clock we were abreast and insh.o.r.e of Sherrard's Islets. Steering onwards we pa.s.sed within a low sandy island covered with bushes, and to seaward of a bare rock which lies a mile and a half south of Cape Direction; round this projection the land trends to the westward and forms a deep bay with Cape Weymouth, which Lieutenant Jeffreys has named Lloyd's Bay. Upon rounding Cape Weymouth, the land was observed to trend deeply in to the westward; and, as the bay appeared to offer shelter, I was tempted to haul round Bligh's Restoration Island for the purpose of anchoring; but in this we were prevented by the rocky quality of the bottom. On our way to Forbes' Islands, which I wished to visit, our course was intercepted by the reef which extended in a North-West and South-East direction; we steered along its western side, at a quarter of a mile from it, until five o'clock, when we hauled round its north end and again steered for Forbes' Islands; but at sunset, being again impeded by a shoal that crossed our course, we anch.o.r.ed under its lee in fifteen fathoms mud, at about three or four hundred yards off its edge.

July 20.

The next morning was so thick and unfavourable that we delayed getting under weigh until after eight o'clock, when, without its wearing a more improved appearance, we steered to the north-west towards the mainland.

At ten o'clock, we pa.s.sed between Piper's Islets and then steering north pa.s.sed at about three-quarters of a mile to the eastward of a small rocky shoal on which were two small trees. This particular is recorded as it may be interesting at some future time to watch the progress of this islet, which is now in an infant state; it was named on the occasion Young Island.

A high lump in the North-North-East was named Haggerston's Island; and to the northward is a group of isles off Cape Grenville, which was named in compliment to Sir Everard Home, Bart.

In steering round the group, we came upon Captain Cook's track, but left it again by bearing away to the westward towards a bay on the north side of Cape Grenville. Upon reaching within Sunday Island, so named by Captain Bligh, soundings were struck in seven fathoms, but in three heaves they decreased to two fathoms hard sand, although our distance from the sh.o.r.e was at least three miles. We then bore away to the northward and anch.o.r.ed in five fathoms and a half, at a mile from Sunday Island, which bore between North 23 degrees and 44 degrees East (magnetic). The bay I called Margaret Bay; its sh.o.r.es are low and composed of a remarkable white sand.

July 21 to 22.

We were detained at this anchorage from thick and squally weather for two days. On the 22nd the gentlemen visited Sunday Island. The island is composed of a heap of rocks covered with a thickly-matted underwood, and surrounded by a coral reef; it is about a mile and a half in circ.u.mference and rather higher than the islands in its vicinity. It had been visited by the natives some time since, but there were no traces of turtle, nor anything to induce our gentlemen to repeat their visit.

July 24.

Early on the morning of the 24th we left Margaret Bay; and steering to the northward pa.s.sed close round the western side of the Bird Isles of Captain Cook. Eight or ten natives were standing on the sandy point of the north-easternmost islet, attentively engaged in watching us as we pa.s.sed by; and near them were two canoes hauled up on the beach. The canoes appeared to be of similar construction to that seen at Endeavour River; but certainly were not more than sixteen or eighteen feet in length. The late Admiral Bligh, in his account of the Bounty's voyage, has described one that he saw and measured at Sunday Island, the place we had just left; it was thirty-three feet long and would hold twenty men; but from his account it must have been of bark, for he says, "the canoe was made of three pieces, the bottom entire, to which the sides were sewed in the common way."* The largest canoe that we have seen did not measure more than eighteen feet in length.

(*Footnote. Bligh's Voyage to the South Seas page 210.)

After leaving this group we experienced a considerable swell from the South-East which would indicate this part of the coast to be less occupied by reefs than it is more to the southward; particularly between Cape Grenville and Cape Tribulation where the outer or barrier reefs are nearer to the coast than in any other part.

Our course was held outside of two groups of islets one of which was called Hannibal's, and the other McArthur's Group. At eleven o'clock a larger islet was pa.s.sed by; at half past twelve o'clock we were abreast of Captain Cook's Orfordness, and of Captain Bligh's Pudding-Pan Hill; continuing our course parallel to the coast we pa.s.sed half a mile inside of Cairncross Island which is about half a mile in length; it has a reef extending for more than a mile off its south point, under which a vessel might securely anchor. At 3 hours 30 minutes p.m. Bligh's Turtle Island was seen, for which we steered; but, attracted by the flattering appearance of an opening in Newcastle Bay, we hauled in to examine it. As we stood towards it the soundings were very regular until we were within the projecting points of the coast, when the quality of the bottom changed from mud to sand; and with this the depth began to decrease. The opening trended deeply in to the North-West and bore the character of a river with a good port at its embouchure; the heads of which were rocky and apparently bold, but the light colour of the water between them indicated that its entrance was shoal, and would prove both intricate and dangerous to pa.s.s. Sooner however than was expected the water shoaled to three fathoms; and before it was possible to avoid it the vessel struck: the helm was put up, but she continued to beat on a hard sandy bottom as her head paid off. Some time elapsed, for it was blowing strong, before the main sheet could be hauled in to gybe the sail; during which the cutter was running along the shoal or bar in ten feet water, which was not sufficient to float her; for she struck the ground violently every time that the swell pa.s.sed by. Upon the main boom being got over, and the vessel's heel touching the ground at the same instant, her head flew up in the wind, and she was very nearly thrown back upon the bank. This was, however, fortunately prevented: in a few seconds she reached deeper water and we providentially escaped a danger which had so nearly proved fatal to the vessel and our lives; for had the cutter remained a-ground on the bank during the night the sea was so heavy that there would not have been the least vestige of her the following morning. To commemorate this occurrence, I have distinguished the opening with the name of Escape River.

Having reached an offing we bore up for Turtle Island, intending to pa.s.s within it and anchor under its lee; but the appearance of the inner channel being suspicious, the plan was altered and we pa.s.sed outside. As soon as we were to the northward of it we hauled in, but were prevented from anchoring under its lee by a reef that extended for a considerable distance off its north side. We were now rather critically placed for the evening was closing in with every appearance of bad weather, and we were obliged to anchor in a very exposed situation without any protection either from the wind or sea. During the night the former blew hard from the South-East with thick rainy weather; and, with tide, raised a short deep swell, that caused the cutter to ride very uneasily at her anchor.

July 25.

At four o'clock in the morning the ring of the anchor broke and we drifted a cable's length to leeward before another could be dropped. At daylight the wind blew so hard as to prevent our picking up the broken anchor and we proceeded towards Mount Adolphus, pa.s.sing half a mile to the eastward of Albany Islands that lie off the south-east end of Cape York.

As the soundings between Mount Adolphus and the Investigator's track to the north of Wednesday and Hammond's Islands had not been previously laid down by Captain Flinders, I determined on pa.s.sing out that way; and after clearing the channel between Mount Adolphus and Cape York, steered for the North-East end of Wednesday Island, leaving the rock, a, a quarter of a mile to the eastward of our course. Off the extremity of Cape York is an island of conical shape separated from it by a very narrow rocky channel. The land to the westward of this projection trends slightly in and forms a sandy bay fronted by a reef and some rocky islets. The hills at the back of Cape York are moderately high and rugged, and only covered with a slight vegetation.

Mount Adolphus is high and flat topped and there was some appearance of a good anchorage in a bight under its north-west side, where also the side of the hill appeared to be thickly wooded, and worth a visit, but the lateness of the hour did not permit the delay.

In pa.s.sing near the rocky islet which lies off the south-east end of Wednesday Island we narrowly escaped striking upon some rocks, two of which were seen about fifty yards off under our lee bow, on which the sea broke heavily.

As we pa.s.sed round the north side of Wednesday Island, six natives were observed running along the beach, waving their arms and hallooing to us: previous to their appearance a large fire had been kindled by them in the woods over the beach, evidently with a view to attract our attention, but in vain, for we were too much occupied for the safety of the vessel to attend to them.

In pa.s.sing the rock off the north end of Hammond's Island the tide was observed to be rus.h.i.+ng past it, with great rapidity to the westward.

At half past one o'clock we hauled up towards the south end of Good's Island, intending to anchor there for the night, that we might have the whole of the next day to leave the Strait. About half a mile from the sh.o.r.e the anchor was let go in seven fathoms gravelly bottom, but in checking the cable the arm of the anchor broke. The strain in bringing up was not so violent as to have caused the accident, had the anchor been properly made; but to its ill shape, and being badly wrought, our misfortune is to be attributed. It was made at Port Jackson. On another occasion it might have caused the loss of the vessel; but fortunately a few hours' daylight and a clear run before us enabled us to proceed, and before sunset we pa.s.sed b.o.o.by Island. A remarkable coincidence of our losses upon the two voyages has now occurred: last year at the North-West Cape we lost two anchors just as we were commencing the survey, and now, on rounding the North-East Cape to commence our examination of the north coast, we have encountered a similar loss, leaving us, in both instances, only one bower anchor to carry on the survey.

b.o.o.by Island is a mere rock, the retreat of b.o.o.bies (Peleca.n.u.s fiber, Linn.) and turtles of the hawks-bill species. Some slight vegetation was perceived upon it but it was so entirely covered with the excrement of birds that it had the appearance of being white-washed. The number of these birds was almost incredible, and they hovered over and about us as we pa.s.sed, as if to drive us from their haunt.

The loss of two anchors prevented our trusting the third while smarting under our misfortune, or we should have anch.o.r.ed under b.o.o.by Island to have obtained some sights for the time-keepers, as well as to have furnished the crew with a fresh meal of turtle.

Eleven weeks had now elapsed since leaving Port Jackson; during which time I had been able to lay down the different projections of the coast and our track within the barrier reefs between the Percy Islands and Cape York; besides having surveyed Port Macquarie, examined Rodd's Bay, and constructed our boat at Endeavour River.

Until we pa.s.sed Cape Grafton the weather was generally fine and favourable for our purpose; but between that Cape and Torres Strait it had been thick and cloudy with frequent rain; which not only increased the danger of the navigation, but also considerably r.e.t.a.r.ded our progress; and, from the continual dampness of the cabins below, which, from the small size of the vessel and our not possessing the advantage of a stove to dry them, it was impossible to prevent, occasioned much sickness; but fortunately it was checked by our reaching a more salubrious climate. The attention I was obliged to pay to the invalids took up a great deal of my time which ought to have been otherwise and more advantageously employed in the object of the voyage. Sailors, of all other people, are the most incautious and careless in contracting illness; but when attacked there are none that require more attendance and nursing; besides, they were unwilling in the first instance to trust to my ignorance, until increasing sickness obliged them, and then my fear was that although I might be of service and check the disorder, their complaint was possibly not understood by me, and that eventually, instead of curing, I might destroy my patient. And to these fears my mind was so constantly alive that on some occasions I thought of little else.

Captain Cook thus describes the method by which the natives of Endeavour River catch turtle: "For striking turtle they have a peg of wood, which is about a foot long, and very well bearded; this fits into a socket, at the end of a staff of light wood, about as thick as a man's wrist, and about seven or eight feet long: to the staff is tied one end of a loose line about three or four fathoms long, the other end of which is fastened to the peg. To strike the turtle, the peg is fixed into the socket, and when it has entered his body, and is retained there by the barb, the staff flies off and serves for a float to trace their victim in the water; it a.s.sists also to tire him, till they can overtake him with their canoes and haul him on sh.o.r.e. One of these pegs, as I have mentioned already, we found in the body of a turtle, which had healed up over it.

Their lines are from the thickness of a half-inch rope to the fineness of a hair, and are made of some vegetable substance, but what in particular we had no opportunity to learn." Hawkesworth's Coll. volume 3 page 232.

The above method differs only from that used by the natives of Rockingham Bay and Cape Flinders; in that the float is another piece of light buoyant wood--the staff being retained in his hand when the turtle is struck. The reader will here recognize, in this instrument, a striking resemblance to the oonak and katteelik, the weapons which Captain Parry describes the Esquimaux to use in spearing the seal and whale. (Parry's Second Voyage of Discovery pages 507 and 509.)

CHAPTER 7.

Cross the Gulf of Carpentaria, and resume the survey of the North Coast at Wessel's Islands.

Castlereagh Bay.

Crocodile Islands.

Discovery and examination of Liverpool River.

Natives.

Arrive at Goulburn Island.

Complete wood and water.

Attacked by the natives from the cliffs.

Leave Goulburn Island, and pa.s.s round Cape Van Diemen.

Resume the survey of the coast at Vernon's Islands in Clarence Strait.

Paterson Bay.

Peron Island.

Anson Bay.

Mr. Roe examines Port Keats.

Prevented from examining a deep opening round Point Pearce.