Narrative of a Survey of the Intertropical and Western Coasts of Australia Volume I Part 20

Discovery of Cambridge Gulf.

Lacrosse Island.

Natives.

Examination of the Gulf.

Death of one of the crew.

Leave Cambridge Gulf.

Trace the coast to Cape Londonderry.

1819. July 26.

On our voyage from Torres Strait to the western head of the Gulf of Carpentaria, which is Cape Arnhem, no incident occurred of sufficient interest to be worth recording; but no sooner had we pa.s.sed Torres Strait than a very sensible difference was perceived in the temperature: the thermometer was observed to range between 75 and 83 degrees, which was about 3 degrees higher than it did on the south side of the Strait; this change produced a drier air and finer weather and soon restored our invalids to perfect health.

July 27.

Soon after daylight on the 27th Wessel's Islands, which had been seen the preceding evening, were descried bearing from West-North-West to South-West by West; and shortly afterwards lower land was observed more to the northward, towards the extremity of which we steered.

The eastern side of Wessel's Islands presents a level aspect; only a few shrubby trees appear at intervals to break the uniformity of its gently undulating outline. The point, which is named Cape Wessel, is the extremity of the northernmost island of the group and is separated from that to the southward of it by a narrow and apparently a rocky strait.

On approaching within a mile and a half of the Cape we pa.s.sed through a strong rippling tide without having soundings with fifteen fathoms. Six natives were seen sitting on the verge of the cliffs that overhang the Cape, watching us as we pa.s.sed; and farther on two more were observed walking on the beach. On the west side of the Cape is a small sandy bay in which there appeared to be good anchorage.

In pa.s.sing this bay we fell into another strong tide race, in which the sea curled and foamed about us as if we were in the midst of breakers; but, as before, no bottom was found with fifteen fathoms. The water was very thick, from the mud being stirred up by the violence of the tide, which must have been setting at the rate of three miles and a half per hour; for we were going nearly five knots by the log, and yet made scarcely any way: we were therefore obliged to steer more off, to get out of the influence of the tide, which proved to be the ebb setting to the North-East.

By a meridional observation at noon the lat.i.tude of the Cape was found to be 10 degrees 59 1/4 minutes, which is 19 minutes more northerly than the land which bounded Captain Flinders' view when he pa.s.sed by in the c.u.mberland. The breadth of these islands is very inconsiderable; for as we sailed down their western coast the cliffs on their opposite sides were occasionally discerned; and at one part half a mile appeared to be the greatest breadth. The low and sandy character of the western sides of these islands differs much from that of the opposite sh.o.r.e, where the coastline is formed by steep rocky cliffs whose bases are washed by the sea. The night was pa.s.sed at anchor.

July 28.

And the next morning the cutter was, with the a.s.sistance of the flood tide, making quick progress to the southward.

At noon we were abreast of the opening through which Captain Flinders pa.s.sed; it was called c.u.mberland Strait, after his little vessel. At one o'clock some islands came in sight to the westward of our course (South-West 1/2 South) between which and the range of Wessel's Islands I intended to pa.s.s; but after standing on for some distance through the channel against a strong tide setting at the rate of three miles and a half per hour, it was perceived that the opening formed a communication with Arnhem Bay. Being convinced of the fact we tacked and pa.s.sed round the northernmost extremity of the western range of islands, for doing which we had nearly paid dear; a strong rippling was perceived to extend for three miles off the point; but as it appeared to be occasioned by the tide setting round it we stood on with the intention of going through them. Near their edge soundings were suddenly obtained with nine fathoms and successive casts decreased the depth to six, five, and three and three-quarters fathoms; the helm was put a-lee to return but the wind at the same moment dying away, the vessel became ungovernable, and was drifted over the spit; fortunately however we found sufficient depth to prevent striking. As soon as the danger was pa.s.sed the water deepened to nine, and in a few heaves we found no bottom with thirteen fathoms; the night was pa.s.sed at anchor.

July 29.

And the next morning we resumed our course to the southward in a parallel direction with the coast; at noon our observation proved that the rocky islets round which we pa.s.sed last evening were those off Captain Flinders' Point Dale. There was however an error of ten miles in the lat.i.tude, which was so unusual an occurrence in the charts of that navigator that for some time I doubted the justice of my suspicions; but on referring to the account of his voyage it appeared that no meridional observation was obtained by him for the lat.i.tude near this channel; and also that the weather when he pa.s.sed through was thick and cloudy. This error therefore, when he was una.s.sisted by an observation for his lat.i.tude in a place where the tide sets at the rate of three or four knots, did not appear at all improbable; and as my conjectures by comparing our respective plans were soon afterwards confirmed, we hauled in for the extremity of the land in sight.

The Strait to the eastward of Point Dale I have named after my friend Robert Brown, Esquire, the profound botanist of that voyage.

In the evening we anch.o.r.ed about three miles from a low rocky island; beyond which is an opening like a rivulet, but it was so inconsiderable in appearance that I was not induced to examine it farther.

July 30.

The next evening we anch.o.r.ed at the bottom of a bay and inside of a group of islands which appear to be the Crocodils Eylandts of the old charts.

The bay was called after the late Viscount Castlereagh, then Secretary of State for the Foreign Department. Two or three small openings that were noticed at the bottom of the bay are probably the embouchures of as many rivulets. This part of the country is low and of uninteresting aspect; dwarf timber appears to pervade the summits of the land near the coast, and of so level an outline that it bears a strong resemblance to a clipped hedge.

July 31.

At daylight we were enveloped in a dense fog which nearly concealed the land; but on weighing two conspicuous points were set, by which I was enabled to connect my survey. Soon afterwards the fog spread so thickly over us that the land was entirely concealed; and as the water was shoal we were obliged to anchor until the fog cleared off, when we again got under weigh and ascertained the form of the south-west corner of the bay; it is of very shoal approach: our anchorage at night was not more than four miles and a half to the north-east of that of the evening before.

1819. August 1.

The next day we attempted to steer to sea between the islands but our course was interrupted by a reef which connected the islets on either side of us; being thus embayed, we were obliged to anchor, but as the wind was light no danger was antic.i.p.ated. Mr. Roe was sent in a boat to sound about our anchorage: on his return he reported the water to be of tolerably even depth, excepting to the southward where there was a spit, on which the least water was four and three quarters fathoms, beyond which it deepened again.

As the night advanced, the wind freshened from the South-East and rendered our situation extremely unsafe. When the tide made against the wind the swell rose and caused our only remaining anchor to drag; more cable was instantly veered; but as the vessel did not bring up and we were drifting towards the reef no alternative was left but to weigh and keep under sail; which, during a long and dark night, and near so extensive a reef, was running great risk. Our loss of anchors was now much felt for no sooner were we under sail than the wind died away; and from the heavy swell the cutter was so ungovernable that the vessel twice missed stays in endeavouring to tack in shoal water; fortunately the water deepened again on standing on, or nothing could have prevented our going on sh.o.r.e. After plying to windward for an hour the weather tide ceased; when the disadvantage of a lee tide was counterbalanced by smoother water and a steadier breeze. We pa.s.sed a very anxious night, but without encountering any accident.

August 2.

With daybreak the breeze freshened; and at noon we were near the small easternmost islet of the group. The afternoon was pa.s.sed in steering round the northern side of the island; but before sunset we had to alter the course twice for shoal water, being at one time within half a mile of a reef that was nearly dry.

During this night the cutter was kept under weigh.

August 3.

And at daylight was considerably to the westward of our reckoning from the effect of a current. The land to the westward of the Crocodile Islands trends deeply in, forming a bay in which two low wooded islands were noticed. As we steered into it the water shoaled; and as there was nothing to induce our persevering we steered round the next point of land, and anch.o.r.ed at sunset to leeward of a shoal projecting in a North-West direction from the point. The coast falls back round this point and forms an unsheltered bay seven or eight miles deep.

August 4.

The following morning our course was held parallel with the sh.o.r.es of the bay towards a point of land which afterwards proved to be the eastern head of a deep opening.

To the northward of this point was an island and farther on to seaward a dry sandbank. As we approached the point we were obliged to haul off for there was evidently a shoal communication between it and the island, and every appearance of its being connected with the sandbank in the offing.

The dark colour of the water on the other side of this line of communication induced me to stand round the sandbank; when, as was expected, we entered a deep channel leading towards the most distant parts of the bight, which afterwards turned out to be the mouth of a river. The sandbank was called Haul-round Islet and the island Entrance Island. In pa.s.sing between the latter and a reef on the western side of the channel, about half or three-quarters of a mile from the sh.o.r.e, we had fourteen fathoms mud; after which it gradually decreased in depth; having reached the mouth of the river we anch.o.r.ed in three fathoms about four miles within Entrance Island. The remainder of the day, which was far advanced, was spent in making preparations for our examination of the river; at low water the tide had fallen ten feet and the cutter took the ground; but as it was on soft mud it was of little consequence.

August 5.

The following morning as soon as the ebb tide ceased I left the cutter in a boat, accompanied by Messrs. Bedwell and Cunningham, and proceeded up the river. The banks on either side were, for ten or twelve miles, so thickly and impenetrably lined with very large mangroves as to defy all attempts of landing; above this these trees were less abundant and the banks were occasionally clear from fifty to two hundred yards in extent; however the view thus obtained did not impress us with any flattering idea of the country at the back. On pa.s.sing the second open bank we observed a canoe hauled up on the sh.o.r.e, and at a little distance farther we saw another; these were the first indications we had observed of the presence of natives, excepting the large fires that were burning a little way in from the banks.

At the next open bank on the eastern side we put ash.o.r.e to give the boat's crew an opportunity of getting their dinner, and as we landed I discharged my fowling-piece at some birds; upon ascending the bank we found that the report of the gun had alarmed four natives, two of whom were females with children on their backs; they were retreating in haste towards a smoke, the fire of which was concealed from us by high gra.s.s: as soon as they reached the fire they stopped and began to call out in loud shrill tones, when they were soon surrounded by twenty-five natives who immediately commenced hallooing and shouting to us in a menacing way; after some consultation two of them advanced armed with spears; upon which I ordered a musket to be brought from the boat, which was concealed from their view by the bank of the river; seeing this the Indians stopped and retreated to their party, who immediately set up a yell of loud and angry cries accompanied with the most furious gesticulations. As the tide was still flowing and I was not very anxious to communicate with these people, from whose neighbours at Goulburn Island we had already experienced much treachery, and who, if inclined to be quarrelsome, might, from the small breadth of the river, considerably annoy and impede our farther progress, we re-embarked and proceeded up the river under the momentary expectation of either seeing or hearing them at every bend and open bank; we were not, however, molested; and at sunset, as we had reached a considerable distance from their encampment, and had not seen any alligators, we landed to pa.s.s the night upon the sh.o.r.e, and soon pitched our tent. We had, however, no sooner refreshed and composed ourselves to rest than we were alarmed by a loud shout, and upon listening attentively it was again heard. It was now our firm opinion that we had landed in the vicinity of another tribe, who upon seeing our fire had alarmed their companions.

The muskets were therefore placed in readiness and a watch set to give our party warning if they approached. In the middle of the night the noise was again heard, but upon being repeated several times it was discovered that we had been deceived by the screams of a bird whose note exactly resembled the human cry. Our fears of being attacked by the natives being now dispelled, our party composed themselves again to rest, but without obtaining any sleep in consequence of the immense swarms of mosquitoes, which buzzing about in incredible numbers were not to be kept from stinging us by any measures we could devise. The tent was very soon deserted and many other places were tried in vain; the only method at all successful, by which some respite was obtained, was by lying upon the ground within two feet of the blaze of the fire; the heat and smoke of which, with the danger of our clothes catching fire, were insignificant inconveniences compared with the mosquitoes' stings; and those only who placed themselves in this situation obtained a few hours' sleep.

August 6.

At daylight, begrimed with dirt and smoke, we re-embarked, and pulled five miles further up the river, when its further examination was given up; at this place its breadth was about twenty yards, and being high water the greatest depth was twelve feet; at low water the channel must be nearly dry. We did not reach the cutter until six o'clock in the evening, much exhausted for want of rest, and from exposure to a powerful sun, and a hot land wind that prevailed all day.

This river, which I have named the Liverpool, runs up from a well-formed port about forty miles, taking in its way a very serpentine course; its breadth at Entrance Island is about four miles; ten miles from the mouth its width is about half a mile, after which it very gradually decreases; at about fourteen miles from our anchorage the water is fresh at half tide but at low water it might probably be obtained four or five miles lower down. The bottom is muddy as are also the banks; and in consequence the latter are only accessible at high tide, at which time they are seldom more than two or three feet above the water's edge. The country within is very level, and appeared during the wet season to be occasionally inundated: the soil where we landed is a sour stiff clay on which grew an arundinaceous gra.s.s.

At one place where the bank was about fifteen feet high and formed of red clay Mr. Cunningham landed, and collected a variety of interesting plants. The open banks of the river were covered with salicorniae and other common chenopodeae; and, in the midst of the usual a.s.semblage of rhizoph.o.r.eae, the Avicennia tomentosa, Linn. was observed of remarkable growth, being in many parts from fifty to sixty feet high, three feet in diameter at the base, and of a straight tapering poplar shape.

Fish was plentiful and on the muddy banks, as the water fell, we saw myriads of small amphibious fishes skipping about: they are probably of the same kind as those seen by Captain Cook at Thirsty Sound and by Captain Flinders at Keppel Bay,* on the east coast. Captain Cook describes the species he saw to be a small fish, about the size of a minnow, furnished with two very strong breast fins, by the a.s.sistance of which it leaped away upon being approached, as nimbly as a frog. The fish I have just noticed appeared to be of a very similar description, excepting that it did not seem to avoid the water as that of Thirsty Sound; for Captain Cook says in a subsequent paragraph that it preferred the land to water; for it frequently leaped out of the sea, and pursued its way upon dry ground, and chose rather to leap from stone to stone than pa.s.s through the puddles of water in its way.**

(*Footnote. Flinders Terra Australis volume 2 page 26.)

(**Footnote. Hawkesworth volume 3 page 125.)

The egret that we had seen last voyage in the Alligator River was also seen here; and white c.o.c.katoos were in large flights, but hawks were unusually rare. The bird, called by the colonists at Port Jackson the native companion (Ardea antigone, Linn.) was seen where the natives were.

As we returned several alligators swam past the boat; but they were neither so large nor so numerous as those of the Alligator Rivers; the largest not being more than twelve or thirteen feet long. Upon seeing these monsters we congratulated ourselves on our escape, for had we known of their existence in this river before we pa.s.sed the night on its bank, the danger of being surprised by the natives and the stings of the mosquitoes would have dwindled into insignificance in comparison with the presence of such voracious animals. On our return down the river a snake was seen about five feet long, of a light red colour, but it escaped by gliding into the long matted gra.s.s.

August 7.

On the 7th we left the river and proceeded to the westward; round Point Hawkesbury the land falls back extending first in a south-west, and then in a west-north-west direction, until it was lost to our view behind a point, which we afterwards discovered to be the Point Braithwaite of our last voyage, the land of which had the appearance of being an island.

The bay thus formed was called Junction Bay; it was not examined, but, from the direction of its trend, did not appear likely to afford much interest, and could lead to no opening of importance.