A Year's Journey through France and Part of Spain Volume II Part 7

CALLEE.

I do hereby certify, that nothing is advanced in the above pet.i.tion, but what is strictly true, and that if the pet.i.tioner had been able to express himself properly, his merits and good qualities would have appeared to much greater advantage, as well as his services; as he has omitted many towns he attended his master to, besides a variety of smaller journies; that he is cautious, wary, spirited, diligent, faithful, and honest; that he is not nice, but eats, with appet.i.te, and good temper, whatever is set before him; and that he is in all respects worthy of that asylum he asks, and which his master laments more on his account than his own, that he cannot give him.

PHILIP THICKNESSE.

_Calais, the 4th of Nov._ 1776.

LETTER LV.

CALAIS.

On our way here, we spent two or three days at _Chantilly_, one, of fifty _Chatteaus_ belonging to the PRINCE OF CONDE: for, though we had visited this delightful place, two or three times, some years ago, yet, beside its natural beauties, there is always something new. One spot we found particularly pleasing, nay flattering to an Englishman; it is called _l'Isle d'Amour_, in which there are some thatched cottages, a water-mill, a garden, shrubbery, &c. in the English taste, and the whole is, in every respect, well executed. The dairy is neat, and the milkmaid not ugly, who has her little villa, as well as the miller. There is also a tea-house, a billiard-room, an eating-room, and some other little buildings, all externally in the English village stile, which give the lawn, and serpentine walks that surround them, a very pastoral appearance. The eating-room is particularly well fancied, being covered within, and so painted as to produce a good idea of a close arbor; the several windows, which are pierced through the sides, have such forms, as the fantastic turn of the bodies of the painted trees admit of; and the building is in a manner surrounded with natural trees; the room, when illuminated for the Prince's supper, has not only a very pleasing effect, but is a well executed deception, for the real trees falling into perspective with those which are painted, through the variety of odd-shaped windows, has a very natural, and consequently a very pleasing effect; but what adds greatly to the deception, is, that at each corner of the room the floor is opened, and lumps of earth thrown up, which bear, in full perfection, a great variety of flowers and flowering shrubs. We had the honour to be admitted while the Prince of _Conde_, the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess of _Bourbon_, the Princess of _Monaco_, and two or three other ladies and gentlemen were at supper; a circ.u.mstance which became rather painful to us, as it seemed to occasion some to the company, and particularly to the Prince, who inquired who we were, and took pains to shew every sort of politeness he could to strangers he knew nothing of. The supper was elegantly served on plate; but there seemed to me too many servants round the table. The conversation was very little, and very reserved. I do not recollect that I saw scarce a smile during the whole time of supper.

The Prince is a sprightly, agreeable man, something in person like _Lord Barrington_; and the _Duke_ of _Bourbon_ so like his father, that it was difficult to know the son from the father.

The _d.u.c.h.ess_ of _Bourbon_ is young, handsome, and a most accomplished lady.

During the supper, a good band of music played; but it was all wind instruments. Mr. _Lejeune_, the first ba.s.soon, is a most capital performer indeed.

After the dessert had been served up about ten minutes, the Princess of _Monaco_ rose from the table, as did all the company, and suddenly turning from it, each lady and gentleman's servant held them a water gla.s.s, which they used with great delicacy, and then retired.

The Princess of _Monaco_ is separated from the Prince her husband; yet she has beauty enough for any Prince in Europe, and brought fortune enough for two or three.

The d.u.c.h.ess of _Bourbon_ had rather a low head-dress, and without any feather, or, that I could perceive, _rouge_; the Princess of _Monaco's_ head-dress was equally plain; the two other ladies, whose rank I do not recollect, wore black caps, and hats high dressed. There were eight persons sat down to table, and I think, about twenty-five servants, in and out of livery, attended.

The next day, we were admitted to see the Prince's cabinet of natural and artificial curiosities; and as I intimated my design of publis.h.i.+ng some account of my journey, the Prince was pleased to allow me as much time as I chose, to examine his very large and valuable collection; among which is a case of gold medallions,(72) of the Kings of France, in succession, a great variety of birds and beasts, ores, minerals, petrifactions, gems, cameos, &c. There is also a curious cabinet, lately presented to the Prince by the King of Denmark; and near it stood a most striking representation, in wax, of a present said to be _served up_ to a late unfortunate Queen; it is the head and right hand of _Count Struensee_, as they were taken off after the execution; the head and hand lie upon a silver dish, with the blood and blood vessels too, well executed; never surely was any thing so _sadly_, yet so finely done. I defy the nicest eye, however near, to distinguish it (suppose the head laid upon a pillow in a bed) from nature; nor must Mrs. _Wright_, or any of the workers in wax I have ever yet seen, pretend to a tythe of the perfection in that art, with the man who made this head.--Sad as the subject is, I could not withstand the temptation of asking permission to take a copy of it; and fortunately, I found the man who made it was then at _Paris_,--nor has he executed his work for me less perfect than that he made for the Prince.--I have been thus particular in mentioning this piece of art, because, of the kind, I will venture to say, it is not only _deadly_ fine, but one of the most perfect deceptions ever seen.

When you, or any of the ladies and gentlemen who have honoured this poor performance of mine with their names, or their family or friends, pa.s.s this way, I shall be happy to embrace that occasion, to shew, that I have not said more of this inimitable piece of art, than it merits; nor do I speak thus positively from my own judgment, but have the concurrent opinion of many men of unquestionable judgment, that it is a master-piece of art; and among the rest, our worthy and valuable friend Mr. _Sharp_, of the _Old Jewry_.

Before we left _Chantilly_, we had a little concert, to which _my train_ added one performer; and as it was the only string instrument, it was no small addition.

The day we left this charming place, we found the Prince and all his company under tents and pavilions on the road-side, from whence they were preparing to follow the hounds.

At _Amiens_, there is in the _Hotel de Ville_, a little antique G.o.d in bronze, which was found, about four years ago, near a Roman urn, in the earth, which is very well worthy of the notice of a _connoisseur_; but it is such as cannot decently be described; the person in whose custody it is, permitted me to take an impression from it in wax; but I am not _quite so good_ a hand at waxwork as the artist mentioned above, and yet my little houshold-G.o.d has some merit, a merit too that was not discovered till three months after it had been fixed in the _Hotel de Ville_; and the discovery was made by a female, not a male, _connoisseur_.

It is said, that a Hottentot cannot be so civilized, but that he has always a hankering after his savage friends, and _dried chitterlins_; and, that gypsies prefer their roving life, to any other, a circ.u.mstance that once did, but now no longer surprizes me; for I feel such a desire to wander again, that I am impatient till the winter is past, when I intend to visit _Geneva_, and make the tour of Italy; and if you can find me cut a sensible valetudinarian or two, of either s.e.x, or any age, who will travel as we do, to see what is to be seen, to make a little stay, where _the place_, or _the people_ invite us to do so, who can dine on a cold partridge, in a hot day, under a shady tree; and travel in a _landau and one_, we will keep them a _table d'hote_, that shall be more pleasant than expensive, and which will produce more health and spirits, than half the drugs of Apothecary's Hall.

If G.o.d delights so much in variety, as all things animate and inanimate sufficiently prove, no wonder that man should do so too: and I have now been so accustomed to move, though slowly, that I intend to creep on to my _journey's end_, by which means I may live to have been an inhabitant of every town almost in Europe, and die, as I have lately (and wish I had always) lived, a free citizen of the whole world, slave to no sect, nor subject to any King. Yet, I would not be considered as one wis.h.i.+ng to promote that disposition in others; for I must confess, that it is in England alone, where an innocent and virtuous man can sit down and enjoy the blessings of liberty and his own chearful hearth, in full confidence that no earthly power can disturb it; and the best reason which can be offered in favour of Englishmen visiting other kingdoms, is, to enable them, upon their return, to know how to enjoy the inestimable blessings of their own.

LETTER LVI.

For what should I cross the streight which divides us, though it were but _half_ seven leagues? we should only meet to part again, and purchase pleasure, as most pleasures are purchased, too dearly; I have dropt some heavy tears, (ideally at least) over poor BUCKLE'S[J] grave, and it is all one to a man, now with G.o.d! on what King's soil such a _tribute as that_ is paid: had some men of all nations known the goodness of his heart as we did, some men of all nations would grieve as we do. When I frequented _Morgan's_[K] I used him as a touch-stone, to try the hearts of other men upon; for, as he was not rich, he was out of the walk of knaves and flatterers, and such men, who were moot prejudiced in his favour at first sight, and coveted not his company after a little acquaintance, I always avoided as beings made of base metal. It was for this reason I despised that ****** ****, (you know who I mean) for you too have seen him _snarl_, _and bite_, _and play the dog_, even to BUCKLE!

[J] WILLIAM BUCKLE, Esq.

[K] MORGAN'S Coffee-House, Grove, BATH.

Our Sunday night's tea club, round his chearful hearth, is now for ever dissolved, and SHARPE and RYE have administered their last friendly offices with a potion of sorrow.

Were I the hermit of _St. Catharine_, I would chissel his name as deeply into one of my pine-heads, as his virtues are impressed on my memory.

Though I have lost _his guinea_, I will not lose his name; he looked down with pity upon me when here; who can say he may not do so still? I should be an infidel, did not a few such men as he _keep me back_.

And now, my dear Sir, after the many trifling subjects in this very long correspondence with you, I will avail myself of this good one, to close it, on the n.o.blest work of G.o.d, AN HONEST MAN. The loss of such a friend, is sufficient to induce one to lay aside all pursuits, but that of following his example, and to prepare to follow him.

If you should ever follow me _here_, I flatter myself you will find, that I have, to the best of my poor abilities, made such a sketch of _men and things_ on this side of the water, that you will be able to discover some likeness to the originals. A bad painter often hits the general features, though he fall ever so short of the graces of _t.i.tian_, or the _Morbidezza_ of _Guido_. I am sure, therefore, you and every man of candour, will make allowances for the many inaccuracies, defects, &c. which I am sensible these letters abound with, tho' I am incapable of correcting them. My journey, you know was not made, as most travellers' are, to indulge in luxury, or in pursuit of pleasures, but to soften sorrow, and to recover from a blow, which came from a mighty hand indeed; but a HAND still MORE MIGHTY, has enabled me to resist it, and to return in health, spirits, and with that peace of mind which no _earthly power_ can despoil me of, and with that friends.h.i.+p and regard for you, which will only cease, when I cease to be

PHILIP THICKNESSE.

_Calais, Nov. 4, 1776._

P.S. I found _Berwick's_ regiment on duty in this town: it is commanded by _Mons. le Duc de Fitz-James_, and a number of Irish gentlemen, my countrymen, (for so I will call them.) You may easily imagine, that men who possess the natural hospitality of their own country, with the politeness and good-breeding of this, must be very agreeable acquaintance in general: But I am bound to go farther, and to say, that I am endeared to them by marks of true friends.h.i.+p. The King of France, nor any Prince in Europe, cannot boast of troops better disciplined; nor is the King insensible of their merit, for I have lately seen a letter written by the King's command from _Comte de St. Germain_, addressed to the officers of one of these corps, whereby it appears, that the King is truly sensible of their distinguished merit; for braver men there are not in any service:--What an acquisition to France! what a loss to Britain!

As the _Marquis_ of _Grimaldi_ is retired from his public character, I am tempted to send you a specimen of his private one, which flattering as it is to me, and honourable to himself, I should have withheld, had his Excellency continued first minister of Spain; by which you will see, that while my own countrymen united to set me in a suspicious light, (though they thought otherwise) the ministers politeness and humanity made them tremble at the duplicity of their conduct; and had I been disposed to have acted the same sinister part they did, some of them might have been reminded of an old Spanish proverb,

"_A las malas lenguas tigeras_"

"Muy S^or. mio. Por la carta de I^o del corr^te. veo su feliz llegada a esta ciudad, en donde habia tomado una casa, y por las cartas que me incluye, y debuelbo, reconosco los terminos honrados y recomendables con que ha efectuado su salida de Inglaterra, cosa que yo nunca podria dudar.

"Deseo que a V.S. le va' ya muy bien en este Reyno, y espero que me avifara el tiempo que se propusiere detener en Barcelona, y tambien quando se verificara su yda a Valencia: cuyo Pais se ha creydo el mas propio para su residencia estable, por la suavidad del clima y demas circunstantias.--V.S. me hallara p.r.o.nto a complacerle y sevirle en lo que se le ofrezca: que es quendo en el dia puedo decirle, referiendome ademas a mis cartas precedentes communicadas por medio de ... Dios quiere a V.S. M^o c^o d^o S^r el 14 Nov^re. de 1775.

"B L.M. en. S.

Su mayor fer^or.

El Marq^s de GRIMALDI, _A Don Felipe Thickness_."

_A Madame_ THICKNESSE.

Voila, Madame, quelques amus.e.m.e.ns de ma plume, vous avez paru les desirer, mon empress.e.m.e.nt a vous obeir sera le merite de ces legeres productions; la premiere a eu a.s.sez de succes en France, je doute qu'elle puisse en avoir un pareil en Angleterre, parce que le mot n'a peut-etre pas la meme signification ce que nous appellons Grelot est une pet.i.te cochette fermee que l'on attache aux hochets des enfans pour les amuser; dans le sens metaphysique on en fait un des attributs de la folie: Ice je l'employe comme embleme de gaiete et d'enfance. Le Pritems est une Epitre ecrite de la campagne a un de mes amis; j'etois sous le charme de la creation, pour ainsi dire; les vers en font d'une mesuretres difficile.

La description de Courcelles est celle d'une terre qu'avoit ma mere, et ou j'ai pa.s.se toute ma jeunesse; enchantee de son paysage, et de la vie champetre que j'aime pa.s.sion, je l'adressois a un honnete homme de Rheims que j'appellois par plaisanterie mon Papa: ce que j'ai de meilleur dans mon porte-feuille, ce sont des chansons pour mon mari; comme je l'aime parfaitement mon coeur m'a servi de muse: mais cette tendresse toujours si delicieuse aux interesses ne peut plaire a ceux qui ne le sont pas. Quand j'auri l'honneur de vous revoir, Madame, je vous communiquerai mon recueil, et vous jugerez. Recevez les hommages respectueux de mon mari, et daignezfaire agreer nos voeux a Mons.

Tiennerse; je n'ai point encore recu les jolies poches, je pars demain pour la campagne, et j'y resterai quinze jours; nous avons des chaleurs cruelles, Messrs. les Anglois qui sont ici en souffrent beaucoup, j'ai l'honneur d'etre avec le plus inviolable attachement,

Madame, Votre tres humble et tres obeissante servante, _De Courcelles Desjardins._ 28 Juillet, 1776.

_Epitre au Grelot._

De la folie aimable lot Don plus brillant que la richesse, Et que je nommerai sagesse Si je ne craignois le f.a.got, C'est toi que je chante o Grelot!

Hochet heureux de tous les ages L'homme est a toi des le maillot, Mais dans tes nombreux appanages Jamais tu ne comptas le sot: De tes sons mitiges le sage En tapinois se rejout Tandis que l'insense jout Du plaisir de faire tapage.

Plus envie que dedaigne Par cette espece atrabilaire Qui pense qu'un air refrogne La met au dessus du vulgaire, La privation de tes bienfaits Seule fait naitre sa satyre; Charmante idole du Francois Chez lui reside ton empire: Tes detracteurs font les pedans, Les avares et les amans De cette gloire destructive Qui peuple l'infernale rive, Et remplit l'univers d'exces.

L'ambitieux dans son delire N'eprouve que de noirs acces, Le genre-humain seroit en paix, Si les conquerans savoient rire.