Historic Homes Part 14

The house as a whole typifies the highest ideals of a bygone period. No modern touch is allowed to mar the beauty of its simple dignity. Never since its erection has it been out of the family. As before stated, the builder was one of three sons, all physicians. There was also a sister Elizabeth, who inherited medical ability to such a marked degree that she took charge of her father's patients, and after her marriage and removal to Londonderry, New Hamps.h.i.+re, was frequently called upon to a.s.sist at surgical operations. There is a story extant relating to her visit to a patient during a dark night. While on her way she slipped and fell, breaking her leg. Nothing daunted, she set the bone herself, and so well did she do it that she suffered no serious inconvenience from her mishap.

Doctor Thomas Kittredge commenced his practice in Andover about 1775. At the commencement of the Revolution, he enlisted in the Continental army, rendering very valuable services as surgeon in Colonel James Fry's regiment. Of him it has been well said that he had more natural skill than any man in the country. A dignified and commanding gentleman, he enjoyed unusual facilities for aiding the sick and the wounded, not only through his wealth, which allowed him to procure for them many delicacies, but through the services of his brother-in-law, Major Samuel Osgood, who was in charge of the department of supplies.

His father, while not taking an active part in the work, did much for the welfare of the soldiers who were sent home to recuperate. He frequently kept them in the old house for many months, or until they had fully recovered their health.

At the close of the Revolution, Doctor Thomas served a long term in the Legislature, and his sterling character and fine intellect combined to make him one of the most valued members of this learned body of men. The last act of his life was in keeping with the kindly traits that had always distinguished him and had made him generally beloved. He encountered at the roadway a man coming from afar, with yet many miles to go before his destination was reached. Noticing the worn-out condition of the horse he rode, the doctor commanded the animal to be installed in his own barn and offered the stranger the use of one of his horses that he might continue on his way. The next morning the borrowed animal was sent home, but the kindly master who had so graciously loaned him was not present to note his return, having pa.s.sed quietly away in his sleep during the night.

In his day slavery was countenanced in Ma.s.sachusetts, and the affairs of the colored servants, however trivial, were attended to by the good doctor and his wife, who were ever thoughtful of the interests of their slaves. The raising of the great house, known as the Kittredge mansion, was a source of great rejoicing among those servitors, and one of the slaves, Caesar by name, held in his arms the baby of the family, Doctor Joseph Kittredge, first, then nine months old, that he might be able to say, when he was a man grown, that he was at the raising.

There were many incidents in which the slaves afforded the doctor great amus.e.m.e.nt, particularly one which occurred when Cato was about to be married. The family and guests were gathered in the parlor, and Doctor Sims, the pastor of the church, was asked to officiate. Cato had been presented for the occasion with a suit of small-clothes, and half a crown for a wedding fee. He was very much impressed with the responsibility of the money, but he could not determine when or where the fee was to come in. This led him to keep his ears and eyes wide open, watching the minister's every word and action. The ceremony concluded, Doctor Sims said in a solemn voice: "Let us pray," stretching out his hand as he spoke. The nervous bridegroom understood it as "Let us pay," and he thrust his hand hastily into his pocket and brought out the half-crown, placing it in the minister's hand before the voice of supplication showed him that the summons was to "pray" and not to "pay."

Doctor Joseph Kittredge succeeded to his father's practice in 1818. He married Miss Hannah Hodges of Salem, and two of their sons were educated for the medical profession,--Doctor Joseph Kittredge, second, and Doctor John Kittredge. The first named succeeded his father in practice and was a highly respected and beloved physician of North Andover until his death in 1878. Two of his sons are doctors, Doctor Thomas Kittredge of Salem, and Doctor Joseph Kittredge, third.

The standard of hospitality established by the builder has been rigidly adhered to through all the pa.s.sing years, and more especially during the summer season the old rooms re-echo with the merry chatter of gay young voices, much as they did in the olden days.

CHAPTER XIX

THE ROYALL HOUSE

The types of mansions described in this book are found not only in New England but through the South. They show marked differences, which give to them picturesqueness and absence of monotony in build. In studying these homes, we must remember that master carpenters were steadily gaining opportunities to brighten their wits by books dealing with architecture, which were being imported into the colonies. We must also remember that increase of wealth had brought about more advantages, and that the nation was demanding better and more elaborate homes.

With change in exterior came a corresponding one in the interior.

Transatlantic ideas were incorporated in the newer homes. There came a progress in the interior finish, showing artistic staircases, colonial windows, and hand-carving in mantel and cornice. Thus was introduced a new and lasting development along architectural lines.

With the larger houses many features of the original ones were discarded. There was no longer the wide central chimney around which the rooms cl.u.s.tered. We find no longer in the chimney-places bricks set in clay, and lathes split from logs, but better and more lasting work. The wood commonly used in these old houses was white pine, which is not so common to-day, although there is nothing more lasting.

Unfortunately, not many of these mansions have survived, many having fallen into decay and disappeared. There are, however, enough left to aid the growth of colonial ideas in twentieth century homes.

One of these houses that deserves more than pa.s.sing notice stands on Main Street in Medford, Ma.s.sachusetts, "a house within a house," and is called the Royall house. It is the only building standing on this land, which is known as "The Ten Hills Farm." This estate, with additional grounds, was granted to Governor Winthrop in 1631, and as early as 1637 the homestead lot was set apart and walled in. Not long afterward we find that tenants and employees of the governor were located here, the Royall house being one of their places of abode.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE LXXVIII.--The Royall House, Medford, Ma.s.s.]

The original mansion, which was two and a half stories in height, was much plainer and smaller than is the present one. Since its erection it has been raised one story, and the present house has been made to enclose the original structure. Among the old houses that are still standing, few have the dignity and stateliness of this mansion, and its roof has sheltered some of the most important men and women connected with our country's history.

The estate is situated on the western side of the main road of what was then known as Mead's Ford, from which the town of Medford derived its name. It was owned by John Winthrop between 1641 and 1645, becoming the property of his son, John Winthrop, Jr., after this period. It was purchased of the Winthrops by Mrs. Elizabeth Lidgett, who made it over to her son Charles. He, however, being an adherent of Andros, was ordered to leave the province, together with the unpopular governor.

The house at that time was two and one half stories in height, with dormer windows in the attic. There were two rooms on each floor, and the dimensions over all were eighteen by forty-five feet, the west, north, and south walls being of brick.

Lieutenant-governor John Usher, brother-in-law of Colonel Lidgett, came into possession of the house through the entanglement of its owner in lawsuits. During his possession he enlarged it by building a lean-to on the west side, leaving the original brick wall to form a part.i.tion between the eastern and western rooms.

By careful inspection of this brick work on the south side of the building, one can follow the original outline of the gable end. There is a little window in the lean-to, differing in finish from the two others above it and yet not in line with them. This directs the attention to the second period in the evolution of this historic mansion.

Lieutenant-governor Usher was Councilor and Treasurer of Ma.s.sachusetts under Andros. He married the daughter of Peter Lidgett, and later on married for a second wife the daughter of George Allen, who bought the New Hamps.h.i.+re grants from the heirs of Mason. This home on the Mystic was a favorite resort of the Tories but the last of the governor's life was surrounded by business troubles and lawsuits, in which he was most unsuccessful. In fact, before his death, he put his farm out of his own control, the deed to be returned to his widow at the time of his death.

In 1732, nine years later, Isaac Royall, who owned a large plantation in Antigua in the Leeward Islands, a man of considerable means, purchased the estate, and it has since borne his name. At the time of its purchase it embraced five hundred and four and three quarters acres and twenty-three rods of land, and the house and grounds were bought for 10,230 10_s._ 9_d._

Isaac Royall was a wealthy man; he brought to the estate twenty-seven slaves, for whom he paid as head-tax, five pounds each, the slaves acting as his body servants and coachmen. Immediately work was started on remodelling the whole building, and it took five years to complete it. The house was made three stories high throughout. Barns were laid out; the slave quarters and summer-house were built, and a high wall enclosed the grounds from the highway. This was broken by a low wall and a fence that ran directly in front of the house. In those days an elm-shaded driveway led from the main road to a paved courtyard that was on the west side of the house, its picturesqueness enhanced by flower-bordered walks that reached from the mansion on the west to the summer-house, and on the east to the road.

The house was clapboarded on the north side, panelled and embellished with hand-carving, on the garden side, while the street front was not greatly changed. It is to-day in fine repair and probably contains the only slave quarters to be found in Ma.s.sachusetts. There is still to be seen in the interior the original fireplace where the slaves did their cooking; the brick portion of this was built in 1732, while the wooden part is much older. An arch of masonry underneath the fireplace is one of the largest in existence and is used as a support for this portion of the building.

At the west of the house is an extensive courtyard with a foundation of cobblestones. Here, in olden days, Royall's chariot, the only one north of Boston, with four horses, would come rolling up to the side door to leave the guests. This led to the erroneous idea that the western side of the house was the front.

The Royalls were descended from William Royall, who came to Salem with Governor Craddock; during the time he lived here it was a rallying place for social life, no one of importance riding by without alighting. It was the scene of many a merrymaking and was the show place of the town.

At the end of the garden was the summer-house that is still carefully treasured, being octagonal in shape, with carved pilasters, bell-shaped roof, and cupola surmounted by a winged Mercury that swings with the breeze, and was used as a weather-vane. This figure is a fine piece of carving that stands nearly five feet high. The summer-house stood on an artificial mound, within which was a walled cellar which was entered by a trap-door, adding great mystery to the structure. Tradition states that this was a prison for slaves, but it is more practical if less romantic to believe that it was used for storage purposes. This summer-house, with its arched windows and the tender sentiments scratched upon the woodwork, was a pleasant place in all weathers except the more severe.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE LXXIX.--Doorway, Royall House.]

The architecture of the house is interesting. The doorway on the east is the true entrance door, showing Corinthian columns, while the Georgian porch at the west, supporting Ionic columns, is also considered a fine bit of architecture.

There can be but little doubt that a house showing the dignity of exterior of the Royall house must have equally good interior woodwork.

One realizes before opening the colonial door that he will see inside a fine old staircase, richly carved newel-post and bal.u.s.ters. The carving in this house as well as others of its type is not confined to the capitals that adorn its architraves.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE Lx.x.x.--Hallway from the Rear, Royall House.]

The long hallway extends the entire length of the house, with doors at either end. The stairway is on the eastern side facing the entrance, and is approached through an arch showing fine hand-carving. The bal.u.s.ters are carved in three different designs, while the newel-post is a combination of the three, one carved within the other. The staircase leads by low treads to the second-story floor. It is made under the old stair-builders' rule:

"Twice the rise plus the tread equals twenty-five, Then cut on the string."

There is no stucco work either in the hallway or in any other part of the house, and the wood throughout is pine.

At the right of the hallway are double parlors, the western one being finished in wood which shows wonderful hand-carving done in 1732, and is lighted by arched windows. The outside shutters remain just as they were all through the lower part of the house when remodelled. The fireplace is finished in old Mulberry Dutch tiles and contains Hessian andirons, which differ from those generally seen in that they face each other.

These andirons came into vogue just after the Revolution and were used to support backlogs.

The eastern parlor is reached through folding-doors, which mask the original walls of the Winthrop House. These rooms, during the Royalls'

reign, were used for many social events. The old wing arm-chair with Dutch legs came in about 1750. The silk-embroidered, Chippendale fire-screen shows beautiful, mythological pictures, while the old, steeple-topped bra.s.s andirons display to advantage the Mulberry tiles of 1847 and also the quaint old fireback. On the wall hangs a picture of Isaac Royall, who gave money to Harvard College to found the Royall Professors.h.i.+p of Law which was the foundation of the Harvard Law School.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE Lx.x.xI.--Spinning Room, Royall House.]

During the life history of the house, nineteen marriages have taken place in these rooms, one of them being that of the oldest daughter, Elizabeth Royall, to Sir William (Sparhawk) Pepperrell. Here also Penelope Royall married Henry Va.s.sall of Cambridge, uncle of the builder of the Longfellow House and of Christ Church. Va.s.sall and his wife are the only ones buried under the church. It was during their life here that Agnes Surriage, according to Abigail Adams' diary, came to the house frequently with Henry Frankland.

The dining-room which is opposite the double parlors is at the present time being restored to the Royall period and will include much of the rare old panelling and fine hand-carving that are shown all through the house, as well as quaint closets.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE Lx.x.xII.--Kitchen Fireplace, Royall House.]

The kitchen contains many old relics. Among them is the Porter sign which was used in Medford Square in 1769, on the Royall Oak Tavern. The New Hamps.h.i.+re soldiers had such an intense feeling against the English sign that before the battle of Bunker Hill they fired against it in anger, the bullet marks being still plainly seen. In this kitchen, also, is kept the first fork in the colony, brought over by Governor Winthrop, also candle-dips made over one hundred and twenty-five years ago by the old process of taking wicks of twine and dipping them in fat in a cold room.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE Lx.x.xIII.--Chambers in the Royall House.]

The chambers are, many of them, most interesting. Several of them show quaint tiles. One of them, the northeast chamber, has a wonderful old fireplace with sixty ancient Bible tiles, many of them original. These depict different scenes in Bible stories, such as Cain slaying his brother with his left hand, the whale and Jonah, Mary and Joseph fleeing into Egypt.

The southeast chamber shows a great deal of the old Winthrop panelling.

This was transferred when Royall reconstructed the building. Here, as in the northeast chamber, are wonderful old tiles, the Royall house boasting more of the best specimens of that early period than any other.