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Exercise No. 25--Napkin--Damask Hem.[19]
Exercise No. 26--Flannel Patch.
Exercise No. 27--A Pair of Sleeve Protectors.
Exercise No. 28--A Garment Brought from Home to be Repaired.
Exercise No. 29--A Pin Cus.h.i.+on.[20]
Exercise No. 30--Textile Fibers and Fabrics--Cotton.
FOOTNOTES:
[17] See Electives, page 36.
[18] See Electives, page 36.
[19] See Electives, page 36.
[20] See Electives, page 36.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EXERCISES.
Review the divisions of the inch.
PATCHING SAMPLER.
_Materials:_ Gingham 8" warp, 13" woof; white thread No. 60; needle No.
8.
It is desirable that each girl cut the two patches and the two pieces to be patched from the same piece of cloth, that there may be no difficulty in matching the pattern, when patching or when later sewing the two patched pieces together.
Fold the piece of gingham, eight inches by thirteen inches woof, with the warp into three sections, two of them eight inches warp by five inches woof, and the third eight inches warp by three inches woof. Fold the three-inch piece across the warp in the center for the two patches.
Cut on the creases. Pin one patch to one of the large pieces, label with the girl's name and put it away for Exercise No. 23.
EXERCISE NO. 21--HEMMED PATCH.
_Materials:_ First section of Patching Sampler.
The hemmed patch is the strongest and the one most commonly used for repairing garments. The patch will not be noticeable if the pattern is skilfully matched. When matching stripes or plaids always turn on the line where the color changes, never through the middle of a stripe. Ten minutes spent on a paper pattern will prevent the mistakes beginners usually make in this exercise.
Trim the patch and crease a quarter-inch fold on the four sides. Place the patch in the center of the large piece (which we will imagine to be worn) and baste around it, matching the pattern carefully. Do not allow pupils to go any farther until the patch is basted on exactly right.
Turn to the right side and cut out the part supposed to be worn by the following successive steps:
1. Measure one-half inch (or as near it as the pattern will permit) from the edge of the patch, using pins for marking the line where it is to be cut.
2. Cut out the center, leaving about one-half inch extending over the patch.
3. Clip the corners diagonally the _exact_ width of the fold to be turned in. _Take great care and do not cut in too far_, as this will spoil the patch.
4. Turn in the edge, baste and hem.
5. Hem the patch on the wrong side.
[Ill.u.s.tration: THE MITERED CORNER.]
EXERCISE NO. 22--MITERED CORNER.
_Materials:_ Paper.
Teach the mitered corner on paper only. Have it done over and over until every pupil understands how it is done, and can do it alone, rapidly and perfectly. Ask pupils to bring paper from home, as almost any kind will do for this practice work. Have it made in hems of several widths. See description of "Miscellaneous" exercises, page 79.
EXERCISE NO. 23--OVERHAND PATCH.
_Materials:_ Second section of the Patching Sampler.
The overhand patch is used on very thin material, such as lawn, dimity or organdy, where strength is not required and where the two thicknesses of cloth around the edge of the hemmed patch would be too noticeable.
The pattern should be as carefully matched as in the hemmed patch and equal care given to the corners. A paper pattern will a.s.sist beginners.
Fold the large piece of gingham with the four corners together and clip off the point from the center. The following are the successive steps for making the overhand patch:
1. Measure on each side of the center, with the warp, one and one-fourth inches and with the woof three-fourths of an inch. Mark with pins.
2. Cut out the oblong at these points (or as near as the pattern permits, observing also the pattern of the patch to be used.)
3. Clip the corners diagonally the _exact_ width of the fold to be turned in.
4. Turn in the fold on the four sides of the hole.
5. Crease the folds on the four sides of the patch so that it will fit exactly into the hole, matching patterns.
6. Beginning near the middle of one side overhand the patch in, matching as you overhand. Do not baste.
The two patched pieces are to be overhanded together. Turn a quarter-inch fold on each with the warp, matching the pattern, baste together and overhand.
Teach the Overcasting on the Practice Piece and overcast all raw edges on the Patching Sampler.
EXERCISE NO. 24--BASKETRY--CHRISTMAS PIECE.[21][22]
This subject has such limitless possibilities and its success or failure rests so entirely with the teacher that it will be necessary for each teacher to prepare herself to teach it and decide upon the style, size and general character of the design of the baskets to be made by her cla.s.s, allowing the pupils as far as possible to work out their individual tastes.