Hand-Loom Weaving Part 12

[Sidenote: _Bed and carriage blankets_]

Bed and carriage blankets are best made of single zephyr, although Germantown wool will do. The heavy carpet wools are also pretty. Some suggestions for this work have already been given under the head of Materials. These blankets are really mats, but made only for another use, and are to be woven in a similar way. Those with centers and borders are pretty, and the plaid ones are always attractive. (See ill.u.s.tration of the holder on page 92.)

[Sidenote: _Doll shawls_]

For doll shawls choose a pretty Scotch plaid and match the colors in fine wool. String a close warp with wool, copying the Scotch plaid exactly. Weave the colors across so that a "truly" plaid shawl may grace Miss Dolly's shoulders on the cold winter mornings. A striped shawl is pretty, or one having one color for the center and another for the border.

[Sidenote: _Doll skirt_]

Miss Dolly may have a lovely petticoat, too. String a continuous warp long enough for the width of the skirt. Adjust the rods for the length.

By using a little color in the warp near the right edge of the weaving, the skirt will have some stripes. Twist a cord of the wool and run in the top for a draw-string.

[Sidenote: _Reins_]

To make reins, adjust for a narrow strip and string a close, continuous warp the length desired. Make a piece, also, to go across the front. Use Germantown knitting yarn. A black warp with a bright red woof is pretty.

[Sidenote: _A square Tam O'Shanter_]

In order to obtain a Tam O'Shanter for Dolly, first weave a square the required size. String a close warp with wool and weave a kindergarten pattern with two colors. When completed, remove from the loom, fold four corners to the center, turn them in to form an opening for the head, and fasten the edges by sewing, or by lacing with a cord made of the two colors. Fasten a ta.s.sel on the top and it is finished. Angora wool is pretty for these caps.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fringe for a rug in red and black_]

[Sidenote: _Fringe_]

[Sidenote: _Threading the needle_]

[Sidenote: _Making the fringe into ta.s.sels_]

[Sidenote: _Removing the fringe from the loom_]

The head piece of the loom should be adjusted for the width of the rug for which the fringe is required. A rug nine inches wide would require fringe nine inches long. Adjust the rods one inch apart--that is, with one perforation between the rods. String the warp in every groove, one string over each rod and three between, making five in all. Weave over and under one until the heading is finished. If you have an extra side rod, place it in the sixth perforation from the right-hand rod. This will make ta.s.sels a little over two inches long. If a shorter fringe is preferred, adjust accordingly. If you have not an extra side rod remove the _left_ one and place as directed, leaving the _right_ one in the heading until the whole fringe is finished. Thread a large tape needle with two pieces of worsted, as long as the two can be conveniently managed. If the fringe is made of two colors, take one of each for the ta.s.sels, weaving the heading with the one which predominates in the rug.

Run the ends in the grooves to fasten them. Wind under the right rod, which was left in the heading, through the first st.i.tch, which includes the warp string over the rod, then over the extra rod to the right. Wind under again through the next st.i.tch in the heading (always around the rod) and so on until the end is reached. To make this fringe into ta.s.sels, separate six strands of each color and tie with the two colors, running the tape needle and worsted along from one ta.s.sel to another, or tie each one securely and cut. The fringe will need no finis.h.i.+ng at the ends. Run the short ends, which were wound through the grooves in the beginning in order to fasten them, through a few st.i.tches in the heading. The fringe can be made of one color, and of any width. To take the fringe from the loom, first remove the rod at the end of the ta.s.sels and cut the fringe before removing the rods from the heading. This will insure straight cutting at the ends of the ta.s.sels. If one prefers a knotted fringe, cut and knot before removing the heading. By examining rug fringes in the furniture stores one can get a very good idea of the manner of knotting. (See also directions for splicing Germantown wool on page 84.)

[Sidenote: _Knotting_]

A simple fringe can be knotted quickly and easily in the ends of the warp strings, after the rug is taken from the loom. First decide upon the length of the fringe when finished. Add at least two inches to allow for knotting. Cut each piece of wool twice this length, double, and thread a tape needle. Pa.s.s the needle from the right side of the rug to the wrong, through the warp strings at the end of the rug. Draw the loop of wool through and unthread the needle. Pa.s.s the two ends of the wool down through the loop and draw it tight. When this has been done in every pair of warp strings, knot every other piece of the fringe together, in the same way that towel fringe is made.

This question of whether a rug should have fringe or not is much discussed at present. It is largely a personal one. The best way, perhaps, is to study different kinds of rugs and know which ones are usually made with fringe and which are not.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Bed shoes made of white wool_]

[Sidenote: _Bed shoes, or socks_]

[Sidenote: _Bed shoes_]

[Sidenote: _Baby shoes_]

Bed shoes of all sizes are easily woven, and make a useful holiday gift.

They are made without soles and are intended to be drawn up around the ankle like a high moccasin. Use the soft double Germantown wool. White, fastened together with pink or blue, or white striped with a color, may be used, and are attractive. The socks in the ill.u.s.tration are of white wool with a pink seam up the instep and pink scallops around the top.

One sock is shown on a last, and the other as it appears off the foot.

The stripes in the knitting can be shown in the weaving by using a color. The full size of the loom makes a shoe of medium size. String a close warp with white wool. If the shoe is to be all white, weave with the same, leaving the color for the finis.h.i.+ng. If it is to be striped, weave perhaps eight or ten times across with color and then with white; when the weaving is finished you will have a mat 9 12 inches. Double one of the short edges and sew over and over on the wrong side with white wool. This is the toe. The two long edges now lie together. They may be crocheted, or knitted, with colored wool by holding them close and fulling in, or by _puckering_ a little. If this is done in color, it makes a pretty seam on the top of the foot and front of the ankle.

The top may be finished by crocheting a beading and scallops of the colored wool. Run a ribbon or worsted cord through the beading. If desired, the long edges may be laced together with ribbon one-half inch wide. Baby shoes are made in the same way. To ascertain what length to adjust the loom, measure the sole, then up, back of the heel, to a point above the ankle. For the width, measure around the foot. Finish the cord with ta.s.sels or b.a.l.l.s.

[Sidenote: _Worsted b.a.l.l.s for bed shoes, and other articles_]

To make worsted b.a.l.l.s, first cut two small circles from cardboard. From the center of each cut a smaller circle. Hold one circle over the other, and with a worsted or tape needle threaded with wool, wind over and over very closely until the hole in the center is completely filled. Always piece the wool on the _outside_ edge. Cut the wool all around on the outside. Make a cord of the wool and slip _between_ the two circles.

Then tie so as to fasten all the pieces of wool in the middle, leaving the cord long enough to tie in a bow if desired. Tear the pasteboards, remove them, and trim the wool evenly. A second ball should be fastened on the other end of the cord, _after_ it has been laced through the beading.

[Sidenote: _Photograph frames_]

To weave photograph and picture frames of silk, chenille, raffia, celluloid, or leather, proceed in the same way as for a bordered rug, having the oblong or square center the required size for the picture.

Foundation frames for mounting the work can be purchased, usually, at the stores where tissue paper and flowers are sold.

[Sidenote: _Table mats_]

Square and oblong table mats for hot dishes can be made of candle-wicking, knitting cotton, or cheese cloth.

[Sidenote: _Tippet or scarf_]

To-day, tippets and scarfs are very little used, but they are very comfortable things to wear to school on a cold day. In order to make them, string a continuous warp of the required length with Germantown dark colored wool. Weave the same color for the woof, and brighten it at intervals with Roman stripes. A plaid scarf can be woven, if preferred; while with a close warp one can have a kindergarten pattern in another, or contrasting color.

[Sidenote: _Wristlets_]

In making wristlets, one must decide how long they are to be, and adjust the length on the loom. Measure around the wrist for the width, remembering that the wristlets will stretch when pulled over the hand.

Weave in stripes or plaid, or, if desired, plain, stringing the warp with the same wool as is used in weaving. Remove the mat and sew the edges together.

[Sidenote: _Sleeve protectors_]

Sleeve protectors can be woven of raffia in the same way as wristlets.

Make them so they can be fastened on the outside of the sleeve, like a cuff.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _A table mat made from carpet wool_]

[Sidenote: _Purses, or chatelaine bags_]

Purses, or chatelaine bags, are made of knitting-silk. Beads can be added, if desired. Adjust the loom for the required size, and string a continuous warp, if necessary. One can obtain the silver or nickel tops, which open and close, at the department stores.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Borders for rugs or squares_]

[Sidenote: _Shopping and school bags_]

[Sidenote: _Opera gla.s.s bags_]

It will be better to use heavier material for shopping and school bags.

Raffia makes a strong bag; silk strips are serviceable, and leather strips are good for school bags. For opera-gla.s.s bags, make two mats and lace or weave them together, or string a continuous warp. Use rope silk, chenille, or knitting silk with beads.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Borders for rugs or squares_]

When one has mastered the mysteries of weaving thoroughly enough to make a _good_ mat, it is very easy to "turn them into" various articles.