The Dumpling_ A Seasonal Guide Part 17

Lord Randall's Pudding, an Apricot Dessert (England) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES 1 DUMPLING).

This is a moist apricot and orange pudding that is tangy and sweet. As with all dried fruits, it is best to buy all-natural dried apricots that are firm and dark. The ones preserved with sulfur dioxide are too soft, and their flavors seem to melt away during cooking. You can find all-natural dried apricots at health food stores and specialty shops.

This dumpling is made using the Pudding Basin Setup.

For the Dumpling cup unbleached all-purpose flour teaspoon baking soda teaspoon baking powderPinch of salt6 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, at room temperature cup light muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary of Ingredients)1 large egg, beaten3 tablespoons milk cup orange marmalade, preferably dark cup all-natural unsweetened dried apricots, chopped fineFor Cooking and ServingUnsalted b.u.t.ter and sugar to coat the pudding basin cup honey, preferably raw, or orange marmalade for servingEquipment24-inch square of muslin35-inch length of kitchen string4- to 5-cup pudding basinPot large enough to hold the basin when coveredParchment paper 1. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Combine the flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt in a small bowl. Combine the flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt in a small bowl.

2. Place the b.u.t.ter and the sugar in a large bowl and whisk until the sugar has mostly dissolved. Add the egg and the milk and whisk until the mixture is very smooth and creamy, about 5 minutes. Add the flour mixture in small batches to the egg mixture, whisking constantly. Once the last batch of flour has been whisked in, fold in the marmalade and apricots. Place the b.u.t.ter and the sugar in a large bowl and whisk until the sugar has mostly dissolved. Add the egg and the milk and whisk until the mixture is very smooth and creamy, about 5 minutes. Add the flour mixture in small batches to the egg mixture, whisking constantly. Once the last batch of flour has been whisked in, fold in the marmalade and apricots.

3. a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING: Before a.s.sembling the pudding, review the Pudding Basin Set-Up. Before a.s.sembling the pudding, review the Pudding Basin Set-Up.

4. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside.

5. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it comes three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it comes three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer.

6. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar. Scoop the batter into the basin and wiggle it gently to level it off. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the batter. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar. Scoop the batter into the basin and wiggle it gently to level it off. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the batter. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding.

7. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, such as a standard white cotton napkin, into the simmering water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 2 hours or up to 4 hours for a pudding that's even richer in flavor and texture. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, such as a standard white cotton napkin, into the simmering water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 2 hours or up to 4 hours for a pudding that's even richer in flavor and texture. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed.

8. Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot, put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the pudding to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve with some honey or more of the orange marmalade. The pudding can be kept refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot, put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the pudding to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve with some honey or more of the orange marmalade. The pudding can be kept refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips).

Sticky Toffee Pudding (England) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES 1 DUMPLING).

Sticky toffee pudding is a traditional sponge pudding enriched by a date paste mixed throughout the batter. The dates add stickiness, moisture, and color, as well as flavors similar to caramel, chocolate, and mola.s.ses. You can use any kind of date, but if you are using dates that are more fibrous than the super-soft medjool, add one more teaspoon of water to the paste. You can turn this into a fig pudding by simply subst.i.tuting figs for the dates.

This dumpling is made using the Pudding Basin Setup.

For the Date Paste1/3 cup finely chopped medjool dates cup finely chopped medjool dates1/3 cup warm water cup warm water teaspoon baking sodaFor the Sauce cup heavy cream cup light muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary of Ingredients)2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunksFor the Batter1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour1 teaspoon baking powderPinch of salt6 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, at room temperature cup sugar2 large eggs, plus 2 large egg yolks, at room temperature teaspoon vanilla extractFor CookingUnsalted b.u.t.ter and sugar to coat the pudding basinEquipment24-inch square of muslin35-inch length of kitchen string4- to 5-cup pudding basinPot large enough to hold the basin when coveredParchment paper 1. PREPARE THE DATE PASTE PREPARE THE DATE PASTE: Mix the dates, warm water, and baking soda in a small bowl and set aside. Mix the dates, warm water, and baking soda in a small bowl and set aside.

2. MAKE THE SAUCE MAKE THE SAUCE: Pour the cream into a small saucepan and stir in the muscovado sugar. Add the 2 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter and bring to a gentle simmer over low heat. Stir continuously until the sauce turns a golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and keep warm. Pour the cream into a small saucepan and stir in the muscovado sugar. Add the 2 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter and bring to a gentle simmer over low heat. Stir continuously until the sauce turns a golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and keep warm.

3. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Combine the flour, baking powder, and salt in a small bowl. Combine the flour, baking powder, and salt in a small bowl.

4. Place the 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter and the sugar in a large bowl and whisk until most of the sugar has dissolved. Whisk in the eggs and the egg yolks one at a time. Continue whipping until the mixture is light and airy, about 5 minutes. Mix in the vanilla extract. Add the flour mixture in small batches to the egg mixture, whisking constantly. Once the last batch of flour mixture has been whisked in, fold in the date mixture. Place the 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter and the sugar in a large bowl and whisk until most of the sugar has dissolved. Whisk in the eggs and the egg yolks one at a time. Continue whipping until the mixture is light and airy, about 5 minutes. Mix in the vanilla extract. Add the flour mixture in small batches to the egg mixture, whisking constantly. Once the last batch of flour mixture has been whisked in, fold in the date mixture.

5. a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING: Before a.s.sembling the pudding, review the Pudding Basin Setup. Before a.s.sembling the pudding, review the Pudding Basin Setup.

6. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside. Have ready the batter and the warm sauce. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside. Have ready the batter and the warm sauce.

7. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it comes three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it comes three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer.

8. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar. Pour about half of the sauce into the basin, generously coating the bottom. Scoop the batter into the basin and wiggle it gently to level it off. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the batter. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar. Pour about half of the sauce into the basin, generously coating the bottom. Scoop the batter into the basin and wiggle it gently to level it off. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the batter. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding.

9. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, such as a standard white cotton napkin, into the simmering water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 1 hours, or up to 2 hours for a pudding that's even richer in flavor and texture. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, such as a standard white cotton napkin, into the simmering water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 1 hours, or up to 2 hours for a pudding that's even richer in flavor and texture. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed.

10. Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot, put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the pudding to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Carefully unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Reheat the rest of the sauce over medium heat, whisking it back together if it has separated. Slice the pudding and serve with a drizzle of the warm sauce. The pudding can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot, put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the pudding to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Carefully unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Reheat the rest of the sauce over medium heat, whisking it back together if it has separated. Slice the pudding and serve with a drizzle of the warm sauce. The pudding can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips).

Potato Dumplings with Crouton Centers Kartoffelklosse (Germany) (Germany) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES 16 DUMPLINGS).

The crouton centers of these potato dumplings-a b.u.t.tery and chewy surprise to bite into-lessen the cooking time of these generously sized dumplings. Dusting the uncooked dumplings in flour forms a skin that helps to hold them together as you slide them into the simmering water. These dumplings can be served as a simple side with b.u.t.ter, or more ambitiously, with a roasted meat dish such as sauerbraten.

For the Dough2 medium baking potatoes, such as russet teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting1 large egg yolk1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves3 strips bacon, cooked crisp and crumbled (optional)For the Bread Cube Center1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.terSixteen -inch crustless white bread cubes (see Glossary of Ingredients) 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place the potatoes in a small pot, pour in enough water to cover them, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and place the potatoes on a folded kitchen towel. Once they are cool enough to handle, peel off their skins and put the flesh into a large bowl. Mash until mostly smooth. Place the potatoes in a small pot, pour in enough water to cover them, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and place the potatoes on a folded kitchen towel. Once they are cool enough to handle, peel off their skins and put the flesh into a large bowl. Mash until mostly smooth.

2. Add the salt, nutmeg, and cup of the flour to the potato, keeping the remaining cup of flour handy. Toss with your fingers until well mixed. Add the egg yolk, parsley, and bacon and work the mixture into a soft dough, about 2 minutes. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If it is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time. Add the salt, nutmeg, and cup of the flour to the potato, keeping the remaining cup of flour handy. Toss with your fingers until well mixed. Add the egg yolk, parsley, and bacon and work the mixture into a soft dough, about 2 minutes. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If it is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time.

3. PREPARE THE BREAD CUBES PREPARE THE BREAD CUBES: Line a plate with paper towels. Line a plate with paper towels.

4. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the bread cubes and toss and stir continuously until lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Spread the bread cubes out on the prepared plate to cool. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the bread cubes and toss and stir continuously until lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Spread the bread cubes out on the prepared plate to cool.

5. MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the bread cubes. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the bread cubes.

6. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inches around. Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Press a hole halfway into the dough ball with your thumb. Push a bread cube into the hole and close by pus.h.i.+ng the edges of the dough over the bread cube until it is surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Reroll into a ball, dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough and bread cubes. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inches around. Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Press a hole halfway into the dough ball with your thumb. Push a bread cube into the hole and close by pus.h.i.+ng the edges of the dough over the bread cube until it is surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Reroll into a ball, dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough and bread cubes.

7. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

8. Carefully drop the dumplings, one by one, into the simmering water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 3 minutes, then cook for 5 minutes longer. Serve with your favorite stew or sauce. Carefully drop the dumplings, one by one, into the simmering water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 3 minutes, then cook for 5 minutes longer. Serve with your favorite stew or sauce.

Country Cabbage Soup with Large Cornmeal Dumplings Soupe aux Miques et aux Choux (France) (France) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES 4 DUMPLINGS).

These large cornmeal dumplings create a pleasing balance of textures in this chunky cabbage soup. Standard cornmeal can be too coa.r.s.e and tough for this dumpling, while corn flour is too fine and will create a dumpling that is much too dense. Standard or stone-ground cornmeal can be used if you first grind it into a finer meal with a few pulses in a spice grinder.

For the Soup1 pound unsmoked country ham, rinsed and cut into 4 equal pieces small bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley8 to 10 fresh thyme sprigs2 to 3 bay leaves1 large yellow onion, chopped coa.r.s.e4 large carrots, cut into 1-inch rounds5 celery ribs, cut into 1-inch pieces1 small Savoy or green cabbage, quartered, cored, and cut into 1-inch strips3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunks3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flourFor the Dumplings1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour1 cups stone-ground white cornmeal, ground very fine in a clean spice or coffee grinder1 teaspoon salt2 tablespoons rendered duck fat or other animal fat like nonhydrogenated lard or chicken fatEquipmentClean spice or coffee grinderKitchen string for tying the herbsColander lined with 4 to 6 layers of cheesecloth 1. MAKE THE SOUP MAKE THE SOUP: Place the ham and 3 quarts water in a large pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour. Skim the froth off the surface with a spoon. Place the ham and 3 quarts water in a large pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour. Skim the froth off the surface with a spoon.

2. Once the broth has simmered for 1 hour, tie the parsley, thyme, and bay leaves in a tight bundle. Add the herb bundle, the onion, carrots, and celery. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes longer. (You can also make the soup in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days.) Once the broth has simmered for 1 hour, tie the parsley, thyme, and bay leaves in a tight bundle. Add the herb bundle, the onion, carrots, and celery. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes longer. (You can also make the soup in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days.) 3. Once the celery and carrots have simmered for 30 minutes, remove them and some of the onion from the broth using a slotted spoon, divide evenly between two bowls, and set aside. Discard the herb bundle. Strain the broth into a large bowl through a cheesecloth-lined colander. Return the soup to the pot. Place over very, very low heat, keeping it hot while you make and cook the dumplings. Once the celery and carrots have simmered for 30 minutes, remove them and some of the onion from the broth using a slotted spoon, divide evenly between two bowls, and set aside. Discard the herb bundle. Strain the broth into a large bowl through a cheesecloth-lined colander. Return the soup to the pot. Place over very, very low heat, keeping it hot while you make and cook the dumplings.

4. MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill another large pot halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Fill another large pot halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat.

5. Place 1 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Mix in the cornmeal and the salt. Add the duck fat and use your fingers to rub it evenly throughout the flour mixture until it resembles a coa.r.s.e, damp meal. Place 1 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Mix in the cornmeal and the salt. Add the duck fat and use your fingers to rub it evenly throughout the flour mixture until it resembles a coa.r.s.e, damp meal.

6. Pour 1 cup water into the flour mixture and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. The dough should be firm and slightly dry. If the dough is sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time. Knead the dough in the bowl for 1 to 2 minutes. Cut the dough into 4 equal pieces and roll each piece into a ball. Pour 1 cup water into the flour mixture and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. The dough should be firm and slightly dry. If the dough is sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time. Knead the dough in the bowl for 1 to 2 minutes. Cut the dough into 4 equal pieces and roll each piece into a ball.

7. Add all 4 dumplings to the boiling water. These dumplings will sink at first but will float to the surface as they cook. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer for 15 minutes. Turn the dumplings over, cover, and cook for 15 minutes longer. Once you turn the dumplings over, add the cabbage to the broth, cover, raise the heat to medium, and simmer for 15 minutes. Add all 4 dumplings to the boiling water. These dumplings will sink at first but will float to the surface as they cook. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer for 15 minutes. Turn the dumplings over, cover, and cook for 15 minutes longer. Once you turn the dumplings over, add the cabbage to the broth, cover, raise the heat to medium, and simmer for 15 minutes.

8. FINISH THE SOUP FINISH THE SOUP: Meanwhile, melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add 1 bowl of the vegetables, stir occasionally, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle the flour across the vegetables and continue stirring and cooking for about 3 minutes. Immediately spoon the sauteed vegetables back into the broth. The second bowl of vegetables can be served as a side or saved for another meal. Meanwhile, melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add 1 bowl of the vegetables, stir occasionally, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle the flour across the vegetables and continue stirring and cooking for about 3 minutes. Immediately spoon the sauteed vegetables back into the broth. The second bowl of vegetables can be served as a side or saved for another meal.

9. Once the dumplings have finished cooking, use a slotted spoon to immediately move them form their cooking liquid to the soup. Cover, cook for 10 minutes longer over medium heat, and serve. Once the dumplings have finished cooking, use a slotted spoon to immediately move them form their cooking liquid to the soup. Cover, cook for 10 minutes longer over medium heat, and serve.

Philadelphia Pepperpot Soup with Dumplings (United States) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES ABOUT 30 DUMPLINGS).

Philadelphia pepperpot soup is a traditional tripe soup that's more often than not filled with soft dumplings that add even more character to the "squidgy" texture of the tripe. Most tripe sold has already been blanched and often bleached. If you want a more intense or natural tripe soup, you can buy fresh tripe and blanch it yourself for a short time as it is done here. Like most soups, this one improves after a day of resting in the refrigerator. If making the soup in advance, add the dumplings after the soup has been reheated.

For the Soup1 pounds honeycomb or pocket beef tripe, well rinsed and cut into 3 or 4 equal pieces2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil2 leeks, white and light green parts only, rinsed clean and chopped fine1 large green bell pepper, cored and cut into -inch squares2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour1 recipe (2 quarts) Beef Broth with American Flavors1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 large boiling potato, such as Yukon Gold, peeled and cut into -inch cubes2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh marjoram leaves or 2 teaspoons dried cup heavy cream (optional)For the Dumplings1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting teaspoon baking powder1 teaspoon salt2 tablespoons cold unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into bits cup cold water 1. MAKE THE SOUP 3 HOURS IN ADVANCE MAKE THE SOUP 3 HOURS IN ADVANCE: Place the tripe in a small pot, cover with water by about 2 inches, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour. Drain and rinse the tripe under cold running water until cool enough to handle. Cut the tripe into -inch squares and set aside. The tripe will be squishy but firm enough to cut. Place the tripe in a small pot, cover with water by about 2 inches, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour. Drain and rinse the tripe under cold running water until cool enough to handle. Cut the tripe into -inch squares and set aside. The tripe will be squishy but firm enough to cut.

2. Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the leeks and the green pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until the leeks are lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Mix in the 2 tablespoons flour and cook for 2 minutes longer. Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the leeks and the green pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until the leeks are lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Mix in the 2 tablespoons flour and cook for 2 minutes longer.

3. Pour in the beef broth and sc.r.a.pe up any sticky bits from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Add the tripe, salt, and pepper. Cover and simmer for 2 hours. (You can also make the soup in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days.) Pour in the beef broth and sc.r.a.pe up any sticky bits from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Add the tripe, salt, and pepper. Cover and simmer for 2 hours. (You can also make the soup in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days.) 4. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: While the soup simmers, place 1 cup of the flour in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the baking powder and the salt and mix well. Add the b.u.t.ter to the flour mixture and work them together with a pastry cutter or 2 b.u.t.ter knives until the mixture looks like a damp, coa.r.s.e meal. Pour in the cold water and mix until all the water has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. While the soup simmers, place 1 cup of the flour in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the baking powder and the salt and mix well. Add the b.u.t.ter to the flour mixture and work them together with a pastry cutter or 2 b.u.t.ter knives until the mixture looks like a damp, coa.r.s.e meal. Pour in the cold water and mix until all the water has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

5. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 3 to 4 minutes. The dough will be somewhat firm and elastic. Return the dough to the bowl, cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 3 to 4 minutes. The dough will be somewhat firm and elastic. Return the dough to the bowl, cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

6. MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Shortly before the soup has finished cooking, line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Shortly before the soup has finished cooking, line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour.

7. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inch around. Dust with a little flour and place it on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough. Keep the dumplings in a single layer on the tray. Cover and refrigerate until it is time to add the dumplings. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inch around. Dust with a little flour and place it on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough. Keep the dumplings in a single layer on the tray. Cover and refrigerate until it is time to add the dumplings.

8. Once the soup has cooked for 2 hours, add the potatoes and marjoram, cover, and cook for 15 minutes. Drop the dumplings, a few at a time, into the soup and stir gently. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes longer. Remove the pot from the heat, stir in the cream, if desired, and serve. Once the soup has cooked for 2 hours, add the potatoes and marjoram, cover, and cook for 15 minutes. Drop the dumplings, a few at a time, into the soup and stir gently. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes longer. Remove the pot from the heat, stir in the cream, if desired, and serve.

Large Beef-and Spinach-Filled Dumplings in a Beef Broth Maultaschen (Germany) (Germany) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES ABOUT 24 DUMPLINGS).

The meat and vegetable filling in these large soup dumplings has a surprisingly creamy consistency created by the addition of soaked bread. They are rewarding to make, comforting to eat, and spectacular to serve.

For the Dough2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting3 large eggs, beaten1 teaspoon grapeseed or other neutral oilFor the Filling3 cups -inch crustless white bread cubes (see Glossary of Ingredients)1/3 cup milk or water cup milk or water cup finely chopped bacon or a neutral oil, such as grapeseed1 small yellow onion, chopped fine1 garlic clove, chopped fine pound freshly ground beef teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg1 small bunch spinach, stemmed, hand-wilted (see Tips), and chopped fine, or cup frozen spinach, thawed and chopped fine cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley1 large egg yolk1 teaspoon saltFor the Broth*1 recipe (2 quarts) Beef Broth with German Flavors1 teaspoon saltEquipment3-inch round cookie cutter 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place 2 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the eggs, oil, and 1 tablespoon water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Place 2 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the eggs, oil, and 1 tablespoon water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

2. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 4 to 5 minutes. The dough will be somewhat firm. Return the dough ball to the bowl, cover, and let it rest for at least 30 minutes but no more than 1 hour. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 4 to 5 minutes. The dough will be somewhat firm. Return the dough ball to the bowl, cover, and let it rest for at least 30 minutes but no more than 1 hour.

3. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Place the bread cubes in a large bowl and pour in the milk. Work and squish the mixture until all the bread cubes become pulpy bits. Pick up handfuls of the mixture, squeeze out any excess milk into a small bowl, and place the bread pulp in another bowl. Discard the excess milk and set the bread pulp aside. Place the bread cubes in a large bowl and pour in the milk. Work and squish the mixture until all the bread cubes become pulpy bits. Pick up handfuls of the mixture, squeeze out any excess milk into a small bowl, and place the bread pulp in another bowl. Discard the excess milk and set the bread pulp aside.

4. Place the bacon in a large skillet over medium heat. Once enough bacon fat has melted to coat the pan, about 3 minutes, raise the heat to high and add the onion. Stir frequently until the bacon is lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Mix in the garlic and beef, breaking up clumps as the meat begins to brown. Stir until the beef is golden brown, about 3 minutes. Mix in the nutmeg and remove from the heat, letting the mixture cool slightly in the pan. Scoop it into a food processor, add the spinach, and pulse until the beef is finely minced, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Scoop it into a large bowl, then mix in the bread pulp, parsley, egg yolk, and salt. Cover and refrigerate for 30 to 60 minutes before a.s.sembling the dumplings. Place the bacon in a large skillet over medium heat. Once enough bacon fat has melted to coat the pan, about 3 minutes, raise the heat to high and add the onion. Stir frequently until the bacon is lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Mix in the garlic and beef, breaking up clumps as the meat begins to brown. Stir until the beef is golden brown, about 3 minutes. Mix in the nutmeg and remove from the heat, letting the mixture cool slightly in the pan. Scoop it into a food processor, add the spinach, and pulse until the beef is finely minced, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Scoop it into a large bowl, then mix in the bread pulp, parsley, egg yolk, and salt. Cover and refrigerate for 30 to 60 minutes before a.s.sembling the dumplings.

5. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling.

6. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds.

7. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 10 to 12. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 10 to 12. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine.

8. Set apart 4 to 6 dough rounds and brush half of them with a little water to make them sticky enough to seal. Place a rounded tablespoon of filling in the center of each dampened round. Top each spoonful of filling with an unbrushed round, creating little sandwiches. Pinch the edges of the rounds together, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. If desired, trim or crimp the edges for a more tailored look. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Set apart 4 to 6 dough rounds and brush half of them with a little water to make them sticky enough to seal. Place a rounded tablespoon of filling in the center of each dampened round. Top each spoonful of filling with an unbrushed round, creating little sandwiches. Pinch the edges of the rounds together, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. If desired, trim or crimp the edges for a more tailored look. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling.

9. Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

10. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Pour the broth into a medium pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in the salt and reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Pour the broth into a medium pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in the salt and reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

11. Gently drop half of the dumplings, one by one, into the broth. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen Gently drop half of the dumplings, one by one, into the broth. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen maultaschen, maultaschen, add them directly to the simmering broth and increase the cooking time by 2 minutes. Do not allow the add them directly to the simmering broth and increase the cooking time by 2 minutes. Do not allow the maultaschen maultaschen to thaw before cooking.) to thaw before cooking.) 12. Using a slotted spoon, remove the Using a slotted spoon, remove the maultaschen maultaschen and lay them on a plate and drizzle them with a couple of spoonfuls of the broth to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining and lay them on a plate and drizzle them with a couple of spoonfuls of the broth to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining maultaschen. maultaschen. Once the second batch has finished cooking, return the first batch to the broth, stir to warm through, and serve. Once the second batch has finished cooking, return the first batch to the broth, stir to warm through, and serve.

Dumplings Stuffed with Pears, Figs, and Chocolate Cialzons alla Frutta (Italy) (Italy) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 5 ( 5 (MAKES ABOUT 20 DUMPLINGS).

Cialzons are large Italian dumplings stuffed with an elaborate and impressive combination of ingredients that can include fresh and dried fruits, meats, herbs, chocolate, and cheese. Some recipes are quite savory, while others, like this one, are on the sweeter side. If you can't get dried pears, you can use dried apples or prunes instead. are large Italian dumplings stuffed with an elaborate and impressive combination of ingredients that can include fresh and dried fruits, meats, herbs, chocolate, and cheese. Some recipes are quite savory, while others, like this one, are on the sweeter side. If you can't get dried pears, you can use dried apples or prunes instead.

These dumplings are made using the Half-Moon Fold.

For the Filling1/3 cup red wine cup red wine4 all-natural dried golden figs, cut into raisin-sized bits2 all-natural dried pear halves, cut into raisin-sized bits1/3 cup raisins cup raisins1/3 cup whole-milk ricotta, drained (see Glossary of Ingredients) for 4 to 8 hours cup whole-milk ricotta, drained (see Glossary of Ingredients) for 4 to 8 hours1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground cinnamon1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg1 tablespoon sugarPinch of salt2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves or mint leaves2 tablespoons finely grated dark chocolateFor the Dough1 recipe Ravioli di Pesce Ravioli di Pesce (Fish Ravioli with a Thinned Cream Sauce) dough, preferably made while the filling is being chilled but no more than 1 hour in advance (Fish Ravioli with a Thinned Cream Sauce) dough, preferably made while the filling is being chilled but no more than 1 hour in advanceUnbleached all-purpose flour for dustingFor the Sauce*4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunksEquipment5-inch round cookie cutterLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Pour the wine into a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the heat and stir in the figs, pears, and raisins. Let the fruit soak for 15 minutes, drain, place in a bowl, and set aside. Pour the wine into a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the heat and stir in the figs, pears, and raisins. Let the fruit soak for 15 minutes, drain, place in a bowl, and set aside.

2. Hold a fine-mesh sieve over a large bowl and push the ricotta through 2 or 3 times with a rubber spatula. Mix in the soaked and drained fruit and the rest of the filling ingredients. Cover and refrigerate for 30 to 60 minutes before a.s.sembling the dumplings. Hold a fine-mesh sieve over a large bowl and push the ricotta through 2 or 3 times with a rubber spatula. Mix in the soaked and drained fruit and the rest of the filling ingredients. Cover and refrigerate for 30 to 60 minutes before a.s.sembling the dumplings.

3. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the cialzons, cialzons, review the Half-Moon Fold. review the Half-Moon Fold.

4. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling.

5. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds.

6. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 4 to 5. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 4 to 5. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine.

7. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough rounds. Brush each round with a very thin coating of water to make them sticky enough to seal. Center a rounded tablespoon of filling on top of each round, fold each neatly in half, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough rounds. Brush each round with a very thin coating of water to make them sticky enough to seal. Center a rounded tablespoon of filling on top of each round, fold each neatly in half, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling.

8. Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

9. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Gently drop half of the dumplings, one by one, into the water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 3 to 4 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Gently drop half of the dumplings, one by one, into the water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 3 to 4 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen cialzons cialzons, add them directly to the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 2 minutes. Do not allow the cialzons cialzons to thaw before cooking.) to thaw before cooking.) 10. Remove the Remove the cialzons cialzons with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle them with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle them with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining cialzons cialzons and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid.

11. MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS: Melt the b.u.t.ter slowly in a large skillet over low heat without browning. Once the b.u.t.ter has melted completely, raise the heat to medium and cook until the b.u.t.ter turns a dark caramel brown, about 3 minutes, swirling the b.u.t.ter around occasionally. Drain the Melt the b.u.t.ter slowly in a large skillet over low heat without browning. Once the b.u.t.ter has melted completely, raise the heat to medium and cook until the b.u.t.ter turns a dark caramel brown, about 3 minutes, swirling the b.u.t.ter around occasionally. Drain the cialzons, cialzons, turn them into the b.u.t.ter, toss gently to coat and warm through, about 1 minute, and serve. turn them into the b.u.t.ter, toss gently to coat and warm through, about 1 minute, and serve.

Pumpkin and Lentil Ravioli with Browned b.u.t.ter and Rosemary Ravioli di Zucca e Lenticchie (Italy) (Italy) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES ABOUT 60 DUMPLINGS).

We use b.u.t.ternut squash in this recipe, but any hard, sweet orange-fleshed squash will do without any loss of flavor or texture. This filling may look quite dry in the bowl, but it cooks up soft and succulent inside the dumplings. The crushed amaretti cookies add more of a nutty flavor than a sugary touch, but you can reduce the number of cookies if you like.

These dumplings are made using the Half-Moon Fold.

For the Filling1 small b.u.t.ternut squash, split lengthwise with the seeds scooped out (about 2 pounds) cup dried green lentils, rinsed7 small amaretti cookies, coa.r.s.ely crushed cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground cinnamon1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper2/3 cup coa.r.s.e dry crustless white bread crumbs (see Glossary of Ingredients) cup coa.r.s.e dry crustless white bread crumbs (see Glossary of Ingredients)For the Dough1 recipe Ravioli di Pesce Ravioli di Pesce (Fish Ravioli with a Thinned Cream Sauce) dough, preferably made while the filling is being chilled but no more than 1 hour in advance (Fish Ravioli with a Thinned Cream Sauce) dough, preferably made while the filling is being chilled but no more than 1 hour in advanceUnbleached all-purpose flour for dustingFor the Sauce*4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunks1 fresh rosemary sprig1 garlic clove, chopped very fineSalt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteEquipment2-inch round cookie cutterLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Preheat the oven to 375F. Preheat the oven to 375F.

2. Roast the b.u.t.ternut squash, flesh side down, on a lightly oiled baking sheet until soft, about 30 minutes. Roast the b.u.t.ternut squash, flesh side down, on a lightly oiled baking sheet until soft, about 30 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, fill a small saucepan halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the lentils, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain, mash lightly with a fork while still in the pot, and set aside. Meanwhile, fill a small saucepan halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the lentils, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain, mash lightly with a fork while still in the pot, and set aside.

4. Remove the squash from the oven and set it aside until it's cool enough to handle. Scoop the flesh out of the skin, place it in a medium bowl, and mash until mostly smooth. Remove the squash from the oven and set it aside until it's cool enough to handle. Scoop the flesh out of the skin, place it in a medium bowl, and mash until mostly smooth.

5. Move the squash onto a kitchen towel. Bring together the ends of the cloth and twist to squeeze out as much liquid as you can. The amount of liquid you are squeezing out won't be much and may simply be absorbed by the cloth. Put the squash back into the bowl. Mix in the amaretti, Parmesan, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Add the lentils and the bread crumbs and fold just a few times to make a purposely uneven mixture. Cover and refrigerate for 30 to 60 minutes before a.s.sembling the dumplings. Move the squash onto a kitchen towel. Bring together the ends of the cloth and twist to squeeze out as much liquid as you can. The amount of liquid you are squeezing out won't be much and may simply be absorbed by the cloth. Put the squash back into the bowl. Mix in the amaretti, Parmesan, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Add the lentils and the bread crumbs and fold just a few times to make a purposely uneven mixture. Cover and refrigerate for 30 to 60 minutes before a.s.sembling the dumplings.

6. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the ravioli, review the Half-Moon Fold. Before a.s.sembling the ravioli, review the Half-Moon Fold.

7. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Also have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Also have ready the dough and the filling.

8. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds.

9. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 12 to 15. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 12 to 15. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine.

10. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough rounds. Brush each round with a very thin coating of water to make them sticky enough to seal. Center a rounded teaspoon of filling on top of each round, fold each neatly in half, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough rounds. Brush each round with a very thin coating of water to make them sticky enough to seal. Center a rounded teaspoon of filling on top of each round, fold each neatly in half, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling.

11. Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

12. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

13. Gently drop half of the dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen ravioli, add them directly to the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 1 minute. Do not allow the ravioli to thaw before cooking.) Gently drop half of the dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen ravioli, add them directly to the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 1 minute. Do not allow the ravioli to thaw before cooking.) 14. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid.

15. MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS: Melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over low heat. Once the b.u.t.ter has melted completely, raise the heat to medium and add the rosemary and garlic. Cook until the b.u.t.ter and garlic turn a deep chestnut brown, about 3 minutes, then discard the rosemary. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over low heat. Once the b.u.t.ter has melted completely, raise the heat to medium and add the rosemary and garlic. Cook until the b.u.t.ter and garlic turn a deep chestnut brown, about 3 minutes, then discard the rosemary.

16. Drain the ravioli, turn them into the b.u.t.ter, and toss gently to coat and warm through, about 1 minute. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve. Drain the ravioli, turn them into the b.u.t.ter, and toss gently to coat and warm through, about 1 minute. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve.

"Little Ear" Dumplings Stuffed with Mushrooms in a Beet Soup Borshch z Vushka (Russia) (Russia) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES ABOUT 64 DUMPLINGS).

These savory, thin-skinned dumplings are very tiny, but they are served in big numbers per portion (12 to 20) and are well worth the care and patience required to prepare them. Few soup recipes call for such a generous serving of filled dumplings, which makes this soup a natural choice for celebrations. The combination of fresh and dried mushrooms gives the filling both intensity and lightness. The dumplings can be cooked in water and then added to the soup or cooked directly in the soup, giving it a slight starchy cloudiness and a more cohesive flavor.

These dumplings are made using the Belly-b.u.t.ton Fold.