The Dumpling_ A Seasonal Guide Part 18

For the Soup*2 pounds meaty beef bones, such as rib, shank, or neck1 pound beef brisket, cut into 4 equal pieces2 bay leaves2 teaspoons salt1 teaspoon black peppercorns3 large carrots, cut into 1-inch rounds2 large parsnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch rounds1 large beet, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces1 small green cabbage, cored and cut into 1-inch chunks3 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded (see Glossary of Ingredients), and crushed, or 3 canned plum tomatoes, drained and crushed (about cup)For the Filling ounce dried mushrooms, preferably porcini, soaked in 1 cup hot water for 30 minutes3 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil1 small yellow onion, chopped very fine5 ounces fresh mushrooms, preferably porcini, chopped very fine teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepperFor the Dough1 recipe Shao Mai Shao Mai (Bottlenecked Pork and Shrimp Dumplings) dough, preferably made while the soup is simmering but no more than 1 hour in advance (Bottlenecked Pork and Shrimp Dumplings) dough, preferably made while the soup is simmering but no more than 1 hour in advanceUnbleached all-purpose flour for dustingEquipmentColander lined with 4 to 6 layers of cheeseclothLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE SOUP 2 HOURS IN ADVANCE MAKE THE SOUP 2 HOURS IN ADVANCE: Place the beef bones, brisket, bay leaves, 2 teaspoons salt, and peppercorns in a large pot. Pour in 10 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 1 hours. Skim the froth off the surface with a spoon. Place the beef bones, brisket, bay leaves, 2 teaspoons salt, and peppercorns in a large pot. Pour in 10 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 1 hours. Skim the froth off the surface with a spoon.

2. Remove the pot from the heat. Remove the bones and the brisket with a slotted spoon or tongs and place them in a bowl to cool. Strain the broth into a medium pot through the cheesecloth-lined colander and skim off any remaining fat. Return the broth to a simmer over medium heat, stir in the carrots, parsnips, and beet, cover, and cook for 30 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat. Remove the bones and the brisket with a slotted spoon or tongs and place them in a bowl to cool. Strain the broth into a medium pot through the cheesecloth-lined colander and skim off any remaining fat. Return the broth to a simmer over medium heat, stir in the carrots, parsnips, and beet, cover, and cook for 30 minutes.

3. While the vegetables are cooking, tear the brisket into bite-sized pieces and place them back in the bowl. Pull any meat off the bones, discard the bones, and add the meaty bits back to the bowl. Once the vegetables have finished cooking, stir in the meat, cabbage, and tomatoes. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and set aside. (You can also make the soup in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days. Bring the soup to a simmer before adding the dumplings.) While the vegetables are cooking, tear the brisket into bite-sized pieces and place them back in the bowl. Pull any meat off the bones, discard the bones, and add the meaty bits back to the bowl. Once the vegetables have finished cooking, stir in the meat, cabbage, and tomatoes. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and set aside. (You can also make the soup in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days. Bring the soup to a simmer before adding the dumplings.) 4. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Fish out the soaked mushrooms with your fingers, squeezing the excess liquid back into the bowl. Set the liquid aside and finely chop the mushrooms. Strain and reserve all the soaking liquid. Fish out the soaked mushrooms with your fingers, squeezing the excess liquid back into the bowl. Set the liquid aside and finely chop the mushrooms. Strain and reserve all the soaking liquid.

5. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the soaked mushrooms, the fresh mushrooms, the teaspoon salt, and the ground pepper and stir until the mushrooms are golden brown, about 4 minutes. Pour in the reserved soaking liquid from the mushrooms. Cook, stirring continuously, until most of the liquid has cooked off, about 2 minutes. Scoop the mushroom mixture into a bowl and set aside to cool. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the soaked mushrooms, the fresh mushrooms, the teaspoon salt, and the ground pepper and stir until the mushrooms are golden brown, about 4 minutes. Pour in the reserved soaking liquid from the mushrooms. Cook, stirring continuously, until most of the liquid has cooked off, about 2 minutes. Scoop the mushroom mixture into a bowl and set aside to cool.

6. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the vushka, vushka, review the Belly-b.u.t.ton Fold, only you will be using dough squares instead of the rounds shown in the ill.u.s.trations. review the Belly-b.u.t.ton Fold, only you will be using dough squares instead of the rounds shown in the ill.u.s.trations.

7. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling.

8. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a blunt log, then roll it out into an 8-inch square. This dough should not be thicker than 1/16 inch, even thinner would be ideal. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Take your time and dust with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a blunt log, then roll it out into an 8-inch square. This dough should not be thicker than 1/16 inch, even thinner would be ideal. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Take your time and dust with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes.

9. Trim the edges to create a cleaner square shape, cut the dough into 2-inch strips, then cut across the strips every 2 inches to form 16 squares. Place the squares in a single layer on the prepared tray. Keep the squares covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine. Trim the edges to create a cleaner square shape, cut the dough into 2-inch strips, then cut across the strips every 2 inches to form 16 squares. Place the squares in a single layer on the prepared tray. Keep the squares covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine.

10. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough squares. Brush each square with a very thin coating of water to make it sticky enough to seal. Place a rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of each square, fold each diagonally into a triangle, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and pinch to seal. Pick up one of the triangles and join and pinch the ends together behind the "belly" of the dumpling. Dab a little water on the ends, if needed, for a better seal. Repeat with the remaining triangles. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough squares. Brush each square with a very thin coating of water to make it sticky enough to seal. Place a rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of each square, fold each diagonally into a triangle, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and pinch to seal. Pick up one of the triangles and join and pinch the ends together behind the "belly" of the dumpling. Dab a little water on the ends, if needed, for a better seal. Repeat with the remaining triangles. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling.

11. Cover and place the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Cover and place the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

12. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot three-quarters of the way full with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. If cooking the Fill a large pot three-quarters of the way full with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. If cooking the vushka vushka in the soup, bring the soup to a steady simmer over medium heat. in the soup, bring the soup to a steady simmer over medium heat.

13. Gently drop a few dozen Gently drop a few dozen vushka vushka, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen vushka, vushka, add them directly to the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 1 minute. Do not allow the add them directly to the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 1 minute. Do not allow the vushka vushka to thaw before cooking.) to thaw before cooking.) 14. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid.

15. Bring the soup to a simmer over medium heat. Drain all the Bring the soup to a simmer over medium heat. Drain all the vushka vushka and stir them into the soup. Cook for 1 minute to warm through and serve. and stir them into the soup. Cook for 1 minute to warm through and serve.DecemberROOT VEGETABLE BREAD DUMPLINGS.

Zoldseggomboc (Hungary) (Hungary) CLOOTIE DUMPLING.

(Scotland) STARCHY COCONUT STEW WITH SLIPPERY RICE b.a.l.l.s.

Guinataan at Bilo-Bilo (Philippines) (Philippines) GUAVA DUFF.

(Bahamas) POTATO DUMPLINGS WITH CABBAGE LAYERS.

Kaposztas Gomboc (Hungary) (Hungary) JOHN IN THE SACK.

Jan in de Zak (Holland) (Holland) CLa.s.sIC CHRISTMAS PUDDING.

(England) CHOCOLATE TAMALES.

Tamales de Chocolate (Mexico) (Mexico) SIBERIAN MEAT DUMPLINGS.

Pelmeni (Russia) (Russia) CHESTNUT RAVIOLI WITH SAGE b.u.t.tER SAUCE.

Ravioli di Castagne (Italy) (Italy) CHICKEN-FILLED DUMPLINGS IN AN ESCAROLE SOUP.

Cappelletti in Brodo (Italy) (Italy) DUMPLINGS STUFFED WITH "STEWED" BREAD CRUMBS Anolini di Parma (Italy) (Italy) Root Vegetable Bread Dumplings Zoldseggomboc (Hungary) (Hungary) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES ABOUT 30 DUMPLINGS).

This is a good winter dumpling that is chock full of winter vegetables, although they can be made year-round with other seasonally available vegetables. Serve these with your favorite meat, bean, or mushroom dish any time you have a good amount of day-old bread just begging to be put to good use.

For the Vegetable Mixture2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunks small yellow onion, chopped fine1 medium carrot, cut into -inch cubes1 large parsnip, peeled and cut into -inch cubes1 small turnip or kohlrabi, peeled and cut into -inch cubes4 large cremini mushrooms, chopped fine1 teaspoon salt1 teaspoon sweet paprika2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsleyFor the Dough4 cups -inch crustless white bread cubes (see Glossary of Ingredients)2/3 cup milk cup milk1 large egg, beaten1/3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting teaspoon salt cup coa.r.s.e dry crustless white bread crumbs (see Glossary of Ingredients)For Serving6 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted just before servingSalt and freshly ground black pepperSour creamEquipmentLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in 1. COOK THE VEGETABLE MIXTURE COOK THE VEGETABLE MIXTURE: Melt the 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a small pot over medium heat. Add the onion and stir just until it begins to soften, about 2 minutes. Add the carrot, parsnip, turnip, mushrooms, 1 tablespoon salt, and the paprika and cook, stirring continuously, for 3 minutes. Stir in cup water, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes longer. Stir occasionally, adding a little more water if the mixture begins to look a little dry. Melt the 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a small pot over medium heat. Add the onion and stir just until it begins to soften, about 2 minutes. Add the carrot, parsnip, turnip, mushrooms, 1 tablespoon salt, and the paprika and cook, stirring continuously, for 3 minutes. Stir in cup water, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes longer. Stir occasionally, adding a little more water if the mixture begins to look a little dry.

2. Uncover and stir until all the remaining liquid has evaporated and the mixture begins to brown lightly. Remove the pot from the heat, stir in the parsley, scoop the mixture into a shallow bowl, and allow it to cool slightly. Uncover and stir until all the remaining liquid has evaporated and the mixture begins to brown lightly. Remove the pot from the heat, stir in the parsley, scoop the mixture into a shallow bowl, and allow it to cool slightly.

3. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place the bread cubes in a large bowl and pour in the milk. Work the milk into the bread with your hands, squis.h.i.+ng with your fingers until the bread becomes a relatively smooth paste. Mix in the egg, flour, and teaspoon salt, then mix in the warm vegetable mixture and the bread crumbs. Cover and refrigerate for 20 to 30 minutes. Place the bread cubes in a large bowl and pour in the milk. Work the milk into the bread with your hands, squis.h.i.+ng with your fingers until the bread becomes a relatively smooth paste. Mix in the egg, flour, and teaspoon salt, then mix in the warm vegetable mixture and the bread crumbs. Cover and refrigerate for 20 to 30 minutes.

4. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour.

5. Using wet hands, pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inches around. Dust with a little flour and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough. Using wet hands, pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inches around. Dust with a little flour and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough.

6. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

7. Gently drop half the b.a.l.l.s, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Stir carefully to prevent the dumplings from sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 8 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer. Gently drop half the b.a.l.l.s, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Stir carefully to prevent the dumplings from sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 8 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer.

8. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook with the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook with the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid.

9. Drain the dumplings and move them to a wide serving bowl. Drizzle the melted b.u.t.ter over the dumplings, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve with a side of sour cream. Drain the dumplings and move them to a wide serving bowl. Drizzle the melted b.u.t.ter over the dumplings, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve with a side of sour cream.

Clootie Dumpling (Scotland) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES 1 DUMPLING).

Clootie, a Scottish word for "cloth," is also the name of this rich, fruity dumpling that is cooked in a cloth. It's a type of fruitcake, similar to Cla.s.sic Christmas Pudding (December), and a traditional holiday treat. Some may appreciate the taste and texture of the a Scottish word for "cloth," is also the name of this rich, fruity dumpling that is cooked in a cloth. It's a type of fruitcake, similar to Cla.s.sic Christmas Pudding (December), and a traditional holiday treat. Some may appreciate the taste and texture of the clootie clootie dumpling more than the Christmas Pudding, because the ratio of batter to fruit is more even. The Christmas Pudding has much more fruit and fat, and is made with a dense bread batter, making it extremely intense. Some unwrap and "dry" the dumpling more than the Christmas Pudding, because the ratio of batter to fruit is more even. The Christmas Pudding has much more fruit and fat, and is made with a dense bread batter, making it extremely intense. Some unwrap and "dry" the clootie clootie dumpling for a few minutes in a hot oven, giving its floury skin a slight crunch. dumpling for a few minutes in a hot oven, giving its floury skin a slight crunch.

This dumpling is wrapped using the Pudding Bag Fold.

For the Dumpling2/3 cup raisins cup raisins1/3 cup currants cup currants1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour cup very fine chopped cold suet or 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, frozen, coa.r.s.ely grated, and kept cold cup muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary of Ingredients) teaspoon baking soda teaspoon baking powder1 teaspoon Pudding SpicePinch of salt1 large egg, beaten1 tablespoon treacle or mola.s.ses1/3 cup b.u.t.termilk cup b.u.t.termilk1 crisp, tart apple, such as Granny SmithFor Cooking and ServingUnsalted b.u.t.ter and unbleached all-purpose flour to coat the muslin1 recipe Vanilla Custard Sauce or Cream Sauce or vanilla ice creamEquipmentHeatproof rack or plate, small enough to fit in a large pot24-inch square of muslin12-inch length of kitchen string for tying the clootie clootie dumpling dumpling 1. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Place the raisins and the currants in a small bowl, pour in enough warm water to cover by 1 inch, and soak for 15 to 20 minutes. Place the raisins and the currants in a small bowl, pour in enough warm water to cover by 1 inch, and soak for 15 to 20 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, place the rack or an upside-down plate in a medium pot, fill it two-thirds of the way with water, and bring to a boil over high heat. The rack or plate is there to protect the dumpling from direct heat by preventing it from sinking to the bottom of the pot. This dumpling floats while it cooks in boiling water, but it will sink for a few minutes when first placed in the pot. It can also settle to the bottom during cooking if the water level falls below halfway up the sides of the dumpling. Meanwhile, place the rack or an upside-down plate in a medium pot, fill it two-thirds of the way with water, and bring to a boil over high heat. The rack or plate is there to protect the dumpling from direct heat by preventing it from sinking to the bottom of the pot. This dumpling floats while it cooks in boiling water, but it will sink for a few minutes when first placed in the pot. It can also settle to the bottom during cooking if the water level falls below halfway up the sides of the dumpling.

3. Place the flour in a large bowl. Add the suet and mix it throughout the flour, breaking apart any clumps. If using b.u.t.ter, rub it into the flour until the mixture looks like a coa.r.s.e, damp meal. Mix in the sugar, baking soda, baking powder, Pudding Spice, and salt. Place the flour in a large bowl. Add the suet and mix it throughout the flour, breaking apart any clumps. If using b.u.t.ter, rub it into the flour until the mixture looks like a coa.r.s.e, damp meal. Mix in the sugar, baking soda, baking powder, Pudding Spice, and salt.

4. Whisk together the egg, treacle, and b.u.t.termilk in a small bowl. Pour it into the flour mixture and stir just until you have a moist, sticky batter. Do not overmix. Whisk together the egg, treacle, and b.u.t.termilk in a small bowl. Pour it into the flour mixture and stir just until you have a moist, sticky batter. Do not overmix.

5. Peel and core the apple and coa.r.s.ely grate it over a plate to collect its juices. Drain the raisins and currants, stir them into the batter along with the grated apple and its juices, and set aside. Peel and core the apple and coa.r.s.ely grate it over a plate to collect its juices. Drain the raisins and currants, stir them into the batter along with the grated apple and its juices, and set aside.

6. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLING a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLING: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the clootie clootie dumpling, review the Pudding Bag Fold. dumpling, review the Pudding Bag Fold.

7. Soak the muslin under running water, wring it out, and spread it out on a flat surface. Rub one side of the damp muslin with b.u.t.ter, leaving a narrow border on all sides, and coat with flour. Center the batter on top of the muslin. (You may find it easier to a.s.semble the dumpling by using a bowl as a supportive mold for the cloth before filling it with batter.) Gather up the corners of the muslin and arrange the folds neatly, creating a bag. As you collect the muslin and prepare it for tying, leave it slightly baggy so that the dumpling can swell as it cooks. Be certain, however, to grip the muslin low enough to leave no open gaps. Tie the gathered muslin tightly. Soak the muslin under running water, wring it out, and spread it out on a flat surface. Rub one side of the damp muslin with b.u.t.ter, leaving a narrow border on all sides, and coat with flour. Center the batter on top of the muslin. (You may find it easier to a.s.semble the dumpling by using a bowl as a supportive mold for the cloth before filling it with batter.) Gather up the corners of the muslin and arrange the folds neatly, creating a bag. As you collect the muslin and prepare it for tying, leave it slightly baggy so that the dumpling can swell as it cooks. Be certain, however, to grip the muslin low enough to leave no open gaps. Tie the gathered muslin tightly.

8. COOK THE DUMPLING COOK THE DUMPLING: Carefully lower the wrapped dumpling into the boiling water, cover, and cook for 2 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes. Add more boiling water if there is not enough to reach at least halfway up the dumpling. Carefully lower the wrapped dumpling into the boiling water, cover, and cook for 2 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes. Add more boiling water if there is not enough to reach at least halfway up the dumpling.

9. Remove the dumpling with tongs, place it on a folded kitchen towel to drain, unwrap, and let it rest for a couple of minutes. If there is no naturally flat side, steady the dumpling with a fork and slice off just enough from any side to create a "foot," making it possible for it to sit steadily on a plate. Serve warm with Vanilla Custard Sauce, Cream Sauce, or vanilla ice cream. The Remove the dumpling with tongs, place it on a folded kitchen towel to drain, unwrap, and let it rest for a couple of minutes. If there is no naturally flat side, steady the dumpling with a fork and slice off just enough from any side to create a "foot," making it possible for it to sit steadily on a plate. Serve warm with Vanilla Custard Sauce, Cream Sauce, or vanilla ice cream. The clootie clootie dumpling can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). dumpling can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips).

Starchy Coconut Stew with Slippery Rice b.a.l.l.s Guinataan at Bilo-Bilo (Philippines) (Philippines) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES ABOUT 20 DUMPLINGS).

The term guinataan guinataan refers to any dish that is stewed in coconut milk, and refers to any dish that is stewed in coconut milk, and bilo-bilo bilo-bilo means "ball ball," which in this recipe refers to small, chewy rice flour dumplings. Jackfruit is one of the exceptional ingredients in this dish, but it's difficult to find fresh and carries a slight metallic taste when canned. Dried jackfruit is the next best thing once it has been soaked in warm water until soft. The means "ball ball," which in this recipe refers to small, chewy rice flour dumplings. Jackfruit is one of the exceptional ingredients in this dish, but it's difficult to find fresh and carries a slight metallic taste when canned. Dried jackfruit is the next best thing once it has been soaked in warm water until soft. The ube ube yam, found either fresh or frozen at many Philippine markets, will tint the stew with a purple hue. If you are unable to find jackfruit or yam, found either fresh or frozen at many Philippine markets, will tint the stew with a purple hue. If you are unable to find jackfruit or ube ube yam, this creamy and coconutty dessert is still worth making, and you can compensate by just adding more of the other ingredients. yam, this creamy and coconutty dessert is still worth making, and you can compensate by just adding more of the other ingredients.

For the Stew6 cups fresh coconut milk (see Glossary of Ingredients) or two and a half 14-ounce cans coconut milk mixed with 2 cups water cup sugar cup small tapioca pearls pound sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes pound taro, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes pound fresh or thawed frozen ube ube yam, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces yam, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces1 yellow plantain, peeled and cut into 1-inch rounds pound jackfruit, seeded and cut into 1-inch pieces, or pound dried jackfruit, soaked in hot water to cover for 30 minutes, drained and cut into 1-inch piecesFor the Dumplings1 cups sweet (glutinous) rice flour, preferably from the Philippines or Thailand, plus some extra for dusting cup warm water 1. MAKE THE COCONUT STEW MAKE THE COCONUT STEW: Pour the coconut milk into a medium pot and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Immediately reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. If using fresh coconut milk, be sure not to let it come to a boil or it will separate into what looks like a superfine curdle and you will have to start over. Stir in the sugar and tapioca and cook for 1 minute. Add the sweet potato, taro, Pour the coconut milk into a medium pot and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Immediately reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. If using fresh coconut milk, be sure not to let it come to a boil or it will separate into what looks like a superfine curdle and you will have to start over. Stir in the sugar and tapioca and cook for 1 minute. Add the sweet potato, taro, ube ube, plantain, and jackfruit, cover, and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the sweet potato just begins to soften. Stir occasionally while it simmers.

2. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: While the stew cooks, line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour. While the stew cooks, line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour.

3. Place 1 cup of the rice flour in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Pour in the warm water and mix until a smooth ball forms. Knead the dough in the bowl for a minute. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If it is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time. Place 1 cup of the rice flour in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Pour in the warm water and mix until a smooth ball forms. Knead the dough in the bowl for a minute. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If it is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time.

4. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inch around. Dust with a little rice flour and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inch around. Dust with a little rice flour and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough.

5. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Once the stew has finished simmering for 20 to 25 minutes, carefully drop the rice b.a.l.l.s, a few at a time. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes longer, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat, cool slightly, and serve. Once the stew has finished simmering for 20 to 25 minutes, carefully drop the rice b.a.l.l.s, a few at a time. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes longer, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat, cool slightly, and serve. Guinataan Guinataan can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat before serving. can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat before serving.

Guava Duff (Bahamas) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES 1 DUMPLING).

Take one bite of this layered, steamed cake and you'll immediately notice the big fruity taste of the guava. If you're not familiar with guava, you will be delighted by its sweet berrylike flavor, reminiscent of pa.s.sionfruit. This recipe uses guava paste, a condensed and sweetened fruit preserve, which can be found at many supermarkets.

This dumpling is made using the Jelly-Roll Shape and then steamed using the Pudding Basin Setup.

For the Dough1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour1 teaspoon baking soda teaspoon baking powder1/8 teaspoon salt teaspoon salt4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, at room temperature cup sugar1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice1 large egg, at room temperature, beatenFor the Filling8 ounces guava paste, chopped coa.r.s.e (about 1 cup)For Cooking and ServingUnsalted b.u.t.ter and sugar to coat the pudding basin1 recipe Hard Sauce (recipe follows)Equipment24-inch square of muslin35-inch length of kitchen string4- to 5-cup pudding basinPot large enough to hold the basin when coveredParchment paper 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place 1 cup of the flour in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the baking soda, baking powder, and salt and mix well. Place 1 cup of the flour in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the baking soda, baking powder, and salt and mix well.

2. Place the b.u.t.ter, sugar, and lemon juice in a large bowl and whisk until the sugar has mostly dissolved. Add the egg and continue whisking until the mixture is light and airy, about 3 minutes. Place the b.u.t.ter, sugar, and lemon juice in a large bowl and whisk until the sugar has mostly dissolved. Add the egg and continue whisking until the mixture is light and airy, about 3 minutes.

3. Add half of the flour mixture to the egg mixture and stir until combined, then mix in the second half. Gently work the dough in the bowl into one manageable ball. Do not overwork the dough. If the dough is sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Add half of the flour mixture to the egg mixture and stir until combined, then mix in the second half. Gently work the dough in the bowl into one manageable ball. Do not overwork the dough. If the dough is sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

4. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: While the dough is chilling, place the guava paste with 2 tablespoons water in a double boiler or in a stainless-steel bowl set on top of a pot filled with 1 inch of simmering water. (The bowl should not be touching the water but should rest directly above it.) Stir vigorously until the guava paste has melted and you have a very thick, smooth sauce, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. While the dough is chilling, place the guava paste with 2 tablespoons water in a double boiler or in a stainless-steel bowl set on top of a pot filled with 1 inch of simmering water. (The bowl should not be touching the water but should rest directly above it.) Stir vigorously until the guava paste has melted and you have a very thick, smooth sauce, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

5. a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE GUAVA DUFF a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE GUAVA DUFF: Before a.s.sembling the guava duff, review the Jelly-Roll Shape and the Pudding Basin Setup. Before a.s.sembling the guava duff, review the Jelly-Roll Shape and the Pudding Basin Setup.

6. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside. Have ready the dough and the filling. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside. Have ready the dough and the filling.

7. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it comes three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it comes three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer.

8. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating with sugar. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating with sugar.

9. Place the dough on a floured surface, shape it into a blunt log, then roll it out into an 8 12-inch rectangle about inch thick. Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Spread the guava sauce on top of the dough rectangle, leaving a narrow border on all sides. Starting with one of the longer sides, begin to roll up the dough, pinching the ends to seal as you go. Pinch and press the far edge of the dough along the length of the log to seal. Pull together and press the ends of the log together to make a doughnut shape, then gently lift and place it in the prepared pudding basin. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the log. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding. Place the dough on a floured surface, shape it into a blunt log, then roll it out into an 8 12-inch rectangle about inch thick. Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Spread the guava sauce on top of the dough rectangle, leaving a narrow border on all sides. Starting with one of the longer sides, begin to roll up the dough, pinching the ends to seal as you go. Pinch and press the far edge of the dough along the length of the log to seal. Pull together and press the ends of the log together to make a doughnut shape, then gently lift and place it in the prepared pudding basin. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the log. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding.

10. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, such as a standard white cotton napkin, into the simmering water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 1 hours, or up to 2 hours for a pudding that's even richer in flavor and texture. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, such as a standard white cotton napkin, into the simmering water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 1 hours, or up to 2 hours for a pudding that's even richer in flavor and texture. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed.

11. Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot, put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the guava duff to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve with a generous helping of the Hard Sauce. Guava duff can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot, put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the guava duff to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve with a generous helping of the Hard Sauce. Guava duff can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips).

HARD SAUCE.

MAKES ABOUT CUP CUP.

3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, at room temperature1/3 cup superfine sugar (or granulated sugar pulsed in a clean spice or coffee grinder for 1 to 2 minutes) cup superfine sugar (or granulated sugar pulsed in a clean spice or coffee grinder for 1 to 2 minutes)1 tablespoon brandy or dark rum Place the b.u.t.ter and sugar in a small bowl and whisk until the sugar has mostly dissolved and the mixture is light and creamy. Slowly whisk in the brandy or rum until combined. Scoop into a small serving dish and chill until solid, about 30 minutes, before using. Hard sauce can be made in advance and kept tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Potato Dumplings with Cabbage Layers Kaposztas Gomboc (Hungary) (Hungary) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES 16 DUMPLINGS).

We love these tasty cabbage dumplings. The potato dough is soft and savory, the shredded cabbage sweet and somewhat crunchy. These dumplings are great with a little oil or b.u.t.ter, but here we finish them under a hot broiler with some melted cheese on top. A good sprinkling of fried bread crumbs (see Glossary of Ingredients) can be added for a crispy crunch no matter how you serve them. A sharper-tasting version of this dumpling can be made with the same amount of sauerkraut or a combination of sauerkraut and fresh cabbage.

These dumplings are made using the Jelly-Roll Shape.

For the Filling3 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil1 medium yellow onion, chopped fine pound green cabbage (about small cabbage), cored, cut into wedges, sliced very thin, and hand-wilted (see Tips) teaspoon sweet paprika teaspoon sugar teaspoon saltFor the Dough2 medium baking potatoes, such as russet teaspoon salt1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted1 large egg, beatenFor Cooking teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg2 cups grated Swiss cheese, preferably EmmenthalerEquipmentPotato ricerLarge, wide bowl to hold the cooked dumplings8-inch square or similar-size baking pan 1. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the cabbage, paprika, sugar, and teaspoon salt and stir until the mixture has browned slightly, about 8 minutes. Remove from the heat, spread the cabbage mixture out on a plate, and allow it to cool to room temperature. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the cabbage, paprika, sugar, and teaspoon salt and stir until the mixture has browned slightly, about 8 minutes. Remove from the heat, spread the cabbage mixture out on a plate, and allow it to cool to room temperature.

2. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Meanwhile, place the potatoes in a small pot, pour in enough water to cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Drain the potatoes and place on a folded kitchen towel. Once they are cool enough to handle, peel off their skins, cut them into chunks, and press through the ricer into a large bowl. Meanwhile, place the potatoes in a small pot, pour in enough water to cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Drain the potatoes and place on a folded kitchen towel. Once they are cool enough to handle, peel off their skins, cut them into chunks, and press through the ricer into a large bowl.

3. Sprinkle the teaspoon salt and cup of the flour over the potato, keeping the remaining cup handy. Toss together with your fingers until mixed evenly. Add the b.u.t.ter and egg and work the dough with your hands until it comes together and is no longer crumbly. This is a delicate dough that needs to be firm enough to be rolled out. If the dough is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time. Knead the dough in the bowl for 1 minute. Sprinkle the teaspoon salt and cup of the flour over the potato, keeping the remaining cup handy. Toss together with your fingers until mixed evenly. Add the b.u.t.ter and egg and work the dough with your hands until it comes together and is no longer crumbly. This is a delicate dough that needs to be firm enough to be rolled out. If the dough is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time. Knead the dough in the bowl for 1 minute.

4. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the kaposztas gomboc, kaposztas gomboc, review the Jelly-Roll Shape. review the Jelly-Roll Shape.

5. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling.

6. Divide the dough in half. Place one piece on a floured surface, shape it into a blunt log, then roll it out into a 7 10-inch rectangle about inch thick. Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Scatter the cabbage mixture on top of the dough rectangle, leaving a narrow border on all sides. Lightly press the mixture into the surface of the dough. Starting with one of the longer sides, begin to roll up the dough, pinching the ends to seal as you go. Pinch and press the far edge of the dough along the length of the log to seal. Repeat with the second half of the dough and the remaining filling. Divide the dough in half. Place one piece on a floured surface, shape it into a blunt log, then roll it out into a 7 10-inch rectangle about inch thick. Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Scatter the cabbage mixture on top of the dough rectangle, leaving a narrow border on all sides. Lightly press the mixture into the surface of the dough. Starting with one of the longer sides, begin to roll up the dough, pinching the ends to seal as you go. Pinch and press the far edge of the dough along the length of the log to seal. Repeat with the second half of the dough and the remaining filling.

7. Cut the doughy ends off both logs with a serrated knife (about a inch off each end) then cut each log into 8 equal pieces. Lightly press the 2 cut sides of one piece into a shallow pile of all-purpose flour. Roll the slice into a ball while using just enough pressure to push and pack the layers closer together. Place on the prepared tray and repeat with the remaining slices. Cut the doughy ends off both logs with a serrated knife (about a inch off each end) then cut each log into 8 equal pieces. Lightly press the 2 cut sides of one piece into a shallow pile of all-purpose flour. Roll the slice into a ball while using just enough pressure to push and pack the layers closer together. Place on the prepared tray and repeat with the remaining slices.

8. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Gently drop the dumplings, one by one, into the water, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Cook until the dumplings float to the surface, about 3 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Gently drop the dumplings, one by one, into the water, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Cook until the dumplings float to the surface, about 3 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer.

9. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and allow them to cool slightly. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and allow them to cool slightly.

10. BROIL THE DUMPLINGS BROIL THE DUMPLINGS: Turn on the broiler and lightly coat the baking pan with oil. Turn on the broiler and lightly coat the baking pan with oil.

11. Arrange the dumplings in one snug layer in the pan. Sprinkle with the nutmeg and grated cheese. Place under the broiler, cook until the cheese is bubbly and golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes, and serve. Arrange the dumplings in one snug layer in the pan. Sprinkle with the nutmeg and grated cheese. Place under the broiler, cook until the cheese is bubbly and golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes, and serve.

John in the Sack Jan in de Zak (Holland) (Holland) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES 1 DUMPLING).

This steamed bread is soft, slightly sweet, and modestly dotted with bits of raisins and candied citrus rind. It's delicious as a side to a savory meal or as a sweet snack with jam. Leftovers can be sliced and used to make excellent French toast. Because the dough rises for the second time inside the "sack," it's important to leave plenty of room for it to expand. Some recipes finish the bread by placing it in the oven just long enough to form a crust, but we prefer it soft inside and out.

This dumpling is wrapped using the Pudding Bag Fold.

For the Dumpling cup warm water, preferably nonchlorinated, such as distilled or spring water teaspoon light muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary of Ingredients)1 teaspoons active dry yeast (about packet)2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour teaspoon salt1 large egg, beaten cup milk, lukewarm1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted cup raisins cup very finely chopped candied lemon peelFor CookingUnsalted b.u.t.ter to coat the muslinEquipment24-inch square of muslin10-inch length of kitchen string8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. PROOF THE YEAST PROOF THE YEAST: Pour the warm water into a small bowl, stir in the sugar and the yeast, and proof for 15 minutes. The surface should become foamy. If not, start again with a new yeast packet. Pour the warm water into a small bowl, stir in the sugar and the yeast, and proof for 15 minutes. The surface should become foamy. If not, start again with a new yeast packet.

2. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place 1 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the yeast mixture, salt, egg, milk, and b.u.t.ter and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Place 1 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the yeast mixture, salt, egg, milk, and b.u.t.ter and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

3. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 3 to 5 minutes. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with a damp kitchen towel, and set aside in a warm, dark place until the dough doubles in size, 1 to 2 hours. Use the Proofing Pot Setup (Tips) if the temperature of the room is not ideal. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 3 to 5 minutes. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with a damp kitchen towel, and set aside in a warm, dark place until the dough doubles in size, 1 to 2 hours. Use the Proofing Pot Setup (Tips) if the temperature of the room is not ideal.

4. While the dough is rising, place the raisins in a small bowl, pour in enough warm water to cover by 1 inch, and set aside. While the dough is rising, place the raisins in a small bowl, pour in enough warm water to cover by 1 inch, and set aside.

5. Punch down the dough, place it on a floured surface, knead once or twice, then pat it out into a 12-inch round. Drain the raisins, shaking off any excess water, and scatter them across the dough round. Do the same with the lemon peel. Fold the dough in half so that it encloses the fruit, then fold the dough in half one more time. Knead until all the raisins and the lemon have been worked throughout the dough and the dough is smooth and elastic, 3 to 4 minutes. If pieces of fruit begin to spill out, just work them back into the dough. Punch down the dough, place it on a floured surface, knead once or twice, then pat it out into a 12-inch round. Drain the raisins, shaking off any excess water, and scatter them across the dough round. Do the same with the lemon peel. Fold the dough in half so that it encloses the fruit, then fold the dough in half one more time. Knead until all the raisins and the lemon have been worked throughout the dough and the dough is smooth and elastic, 3 to 4 minutes. If pieces of fruit begin to spill out, just work them back into the dough.

6. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLING a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLING: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the Jan in de zak, Jan in de zak, review the Pudding Bag Fold. review the Pudding Bag Fold.

7. Soak the muslin under running water, wring it out, and spread it out on a flat surface. Rub one side of the damp muslin with b.u.t.ter, leaving a narrow border on all sides. Center the dough ball on top of the muslin. Gather up the corners of the muslin and arrange the folds neatly, creating a bag. As you collect the muslin and prepare it for tying, leave it very baggy so that the dumpling will have enough room to rise. Be certain, however, to grip the muslin low enough to leave no open gaps. Tie the gathered muslin tightly, return the wrapped dough to the bowl, and place again in a warm, dark place (or back into the proofing pot) and allow the dough to expand and fill out the cloth, 1 to 2 hours. Soak the muslin under running water, wring it out, and spread it out on a flat surface. Rub one side of the damp muslin with b.u.t.ter, leaving a narrow border on all sides. Center the dough ball on top of the muslin. Gather up the corners of the muslin and arrange the folds neatly, creating a bag. As you collect the muslin and prepare it for tying, leave it very baggy so that the dumpling will have enough room to rise. Be certain, however, to grip the muslin low enough to leave no open gaps. Tie the gathered muslin tightly, return the wrapped dough to the bowl, and place again in a warm, dark place (or back into the proofing pot) and allow the dough to expand and fill out the cloth, 1 to 2 hours.

8. STEAM THE DUMPLING STEAM THE DUMPLING: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Place the wrapped dough in the basket. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for 2 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Place the wrapped dough in the basket. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for 2 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed.

9. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Remove the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Remove the Jan in de zak Jan in de zak, place it on a plate, unwrap, and allow it to cool slightly. Serve warm or at room temperature. Jan in de zak Jan in de zak can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.

Cla.s.sic Christmas Pudding (England) SERVES 12 ( 12 (MAKES 1 DUMPLING).

This pudding is often made months in advance and aged either at room temperature or in the refrigerator until Christmas. It may be soaked in liquor during the aging process, basted with it periodically, or simply left to develop its flavors on its own. For those of us who are not disciplined enough to take care of a pudding for weeks or months, rest a.s.sured that a Christmas pudding that's cooked and eaten on the same day is still extremely delicious and just as proper. This recipe requires an 8- to 10-hour cooking time.

This dumpling is made using the Pudding Basin Setup.

For the Dumpling1 crisp, tart apple, such as Granny Smith1 cup dried currants2 cups raisins cup finely chopped candied lemon peel cup finely chopped candied orange peel1 cup amber ale2 tablespoons brandy or dark rum8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, at room temperature2/3 cup light muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary of Ingredients) cup light muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary of Ingredients)1 tablespoon treacle or mola.s.ses6 large eggs, at room temperature, beaten2 cups coa.r.s.e fresh crustless white bread crumbs (see Glossary of Ingredients) cup unbleached all-purpose flour1 tablespoon Pudding Spice1/8 teaspoon salt teaspoon salt pound very finely chopped cold suet or 4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, frozen, coa.r.s.ely grated, and kept coldFor Cooking and ServingUnsalted b.u.t.ter and sugar to coat the pudding basin1 recipe Vanilla Custard Sauce or Hard Sauce (Tips)Equipment24-inch square of muslin40-inch length of kitchen string10- to 12-cup pudding basinPot large enough to hold the basin when coveredParchment paper 1. MAKE THE PUDDING MIXTURE 24 TO 72 HOURS IN ADVANCE MAKE THE PUDDING MIXTURE 24 TO 72 HOURS IN ADVANCE: Peel and core the apple and coa.r.s.ely grate it over a large bowl. Add the currants, raisins, and candied lemon and orange peels. Stir in the ale and brandy. Cover and soak at room temperature for 6 to 8 hours. Stir the fruit occasionally for even soaking. Peel and core the apple and coa.r.s.ely grate it over a large bowl. Add the currants, raisins, and candied lemon and orange peels. Stir in the ale and brandy. Cover and soak at room temperature for 6 to 8 hours. Stir the fruit occasionally for even soaking.