The Dumpling_ A Seasonal Guide Part 5

10. Reheat the mushroom sauce, stirring occasionally, over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low, add the sour cream, and cook for 2 minutes, stirring continuously. Drain the Reheat the mushroom sauce, stirring occasionally, over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low, add the sour cream, and cook for 2 minutes, stirring continuously. Drain the kluski kluski and turn them into the mushroom sauce. Toss and stir the and turn them into the mushroom sauce. Toss and stir the kluski kluski in the sauce, mix in the chopped chives, simmer for 1 minute to heat through, and serve. in the sauce, mix in the chopped chives, simmer for 1 minute to heat through, and serve.

Chestnut Gnocchi with Walnut Sauce Gnocchi di Castagne con Salsa di Noci (Italy) (Italy) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 6.

Chestnut flour gives these otherwise standard potato gnocchi a nutty and slightly bittersweet flavor that becomes mellow and fragrant when they are smothered in a walnut sauce. This particular walnut sauce is a plain white sauce (besciamella) flavored with fresh walnut paste. Peeling the membranelike skins off the walnut halves takes a couple of minutes, but it is well worth the extra effort and creates a sweeter sauce.

Chestnut flour is made from small garessina chestnuts, which are quite different from the larger, more common marroni chestnuts. It is a seasonal flour that is mostly available in the winter and is best kept in the freezer because of its high fat content.

For the Sauce*1 cup raw walnut halves4 garlic cloves, chopped coa.r.s.e cup olive oil1 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour1 cups milk teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh marjoram leaves cup freshly grated Parmesan cheeseFor the Dumplings3 medium baking potatoes, such as russet cup chestnut flour cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting1 teaspoon saltEquipmentPotato ricerGnocchi board (optional)Large plate or tray to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. PREPARE THE WALNUTS PREPARE THE WALNUTS: Fill a small saucepan halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Add the nuts and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the nuts from the heat, drain, and run under cold water until cool. Peel off the skins as best you can. (We found starting in the center of the nut made it a little easier.) Place the peeled nuts in a bowl and set aside. Fill a small saucepan halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Add the nuts and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the nuts from the heat, drain, and run under cold water until cool. Peel off the skins as best you can. (We found starting in the center of the nut made it a little easier.) Place the peeled nuts in a bowl and set aside.

2. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place the potatoes in a small pot, pour in enough water to cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and place the potatoes on a folded kitchen towel. Once they are cool enough to handle, peel off and discard their skins, break them into chunks, and then press through the ricer into a large bowl. Place the potatoes in a small pot, pour in enough water to cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and place the potatoes on a folded kitchen towel. Once they are cool enough to handle, peel off and discard their skins, break them into chunks, and then press through the ricer into a large bowl.

3. Combine the flours in a small bowl. Scoop out cup and set aside. Add the 1 teaspoon salt and the remaining flour mixture to the potato. Toss with your fingers until mixed evenly. Drizzle in Combine the flours in a small bowl. Scoop out cup and set aside. Add the 1 teaspoon salt and the remaining flour mixture to the potato. Toss with your fingers until mixed evenly. Drizzle in 1 1/3 cup water and work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is too wet and sticky, work in some of the reserved flour mixture, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Knead the dough in the bowl for about 1 minute. The dough will be soft and slightly sticky. cup water and work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is too wet and sticky, work in some of the reserved flour mixture, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Knead the dough in the bowl for about 1 minute. The dough will be soft and slightly sticky.

4. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour.

5. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 8 equal pieces, and set 7 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Roll the remaining piece of dough into a rope about inch thick. Cut the rope into -inch lengths. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 8 equal pieces, and set 7 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Roll the remaining piece of dough into a rope about inch thick. Cut the rope into -inch lengths.

6. If you don't want ridges on your gnocchi, place the cut dough pieces on the prepared tray in a single layer. If you do want ridges, roll each piece along the gnocchi board or along the tines of a fork. Roll the piece along the back of the fork to avoid catching it on the ends of the tines. Arrange the gnocchi in one layer on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough. If you don't want ridges on your gnocchi, place the cut dough pieces on the prepared tray in a single layer. If you do want ridges, roll each piece along the gnocchi board or along the tines of a fork. Roll the piece along the back of the fork to avoid catching it on the ends of the tines. Arrange the gnocchi in one layer on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough.

7. Cover and place the tray of dumplings in the refrigerator while you make the sauce. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see TIPS). Cover and place the tray of dumplings in the refrigerator while you make the sauce. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see TIPS).

8. MAKE THE SAUCE MAKE THE SAUCE: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Once it comes to a boil, reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Once it comes to a boil, reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer.

9. Meanwhile, pulse the walnuts and the garlic in a food processor until the walnuts are well broken apart. Continue to process while slowly drizzling in the oil until the mixture becomes a thick, grainy paste. Sc.r.a.pe down the sides of the processor bowl and scoop the paste into a bowl. Meanwhile, pulse the walnuts and the garlic in a food processor until the walnuts are well broken apart. Continue to process while slowly drizzling in the oil until the mixture becomes a thick, grainy paste. Sc.r.a.pe down the sides of the processor bowl and scoop the paste into a bowl.

10. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a medium pot over low heat, add the 2 tablespoons flour, and stir continuously for 3 minutes. Pour the milk in slowly, whisking constantly. Once the mixture is smooth, raise the heat to medium and bring to a simmer. Mix in the walnut paste, teaspoon salt, and the pepper and simmer for 1 minute longer. Cover and reduce the heat to very, very low to keep the sauce warm while cooking the gnocchi. (You can also make the sauce up to 3 days in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container.) Melt the b.u.t.ter in a medium pot over low heat, add the 2 tablespoons flour, and stir continuously for 3 minutes. Pour the milk in slowly, whisking constantly. Once the mixture is smooth, raise the heat to medium and bring to a simmer. Mix in the walnut paste, teaspoon salt, and the pepper and simmer for 1 minute longer. Cover and reduce the heat to very, very low to keep the sauce warm while cooking the gnocchi. (You can also make the sauce up to 3 days in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container.) 11. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Bring the water back to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Carefully drop a few dozen gnocchi, a few at a time, into the water. Cook until the gnocchi float to the surface of the water, about 2 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen gnocchi, add them directly into the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 1 minute. Do not allow the gnocchi to thaw before cooking. Bring the water back to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Carefully drop a few dozen gnocchi, a few at a time, into the water. Cook until the gnocchi float to the surface of the water, about 2 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen gnocchi, add them directly into the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 1 minute. Do not allow the gnocchi to thaw before cooking.

12. Remove the gnocchi with a slotted spoon, scatter them on the large plate or tray, and drizzle with a few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Resting the cooked gnocchi on a roomy plate prevents them from piling up on each other while they set and firm up a bit. Cook the remaining gnocchi and place them on the plate with another few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid. Set aside cup of the cooking liquid for the sauce. Remove the gnocchi with a slotted spoon, scatter them on the large plate or tray, and drizzle with a few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Resting the cooked gnocchi on a roomy plate prevents them from piling up on each other while they set and firm up a bit. Cook the remaining gnocchi and place them on the plate with another few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid. Set aside cup of the cooking liquid for the sauce.

13. Once all the gnocchi have been cooked, return the sauce to a simmer over medium heat. Drain the gnocchi, mix them into the sauce, and cook for 1 minute to warm through. If the sauce is a little thick, stir in some of the reserved cooking liquid. Remove from the heat, stir in the marjoram and the Parmesan, and serve. Once all the gnocchi have been cooked, return the sauce to a simmer over medium heat. Drain the gnocchi, mix them into the sauce, and cook for 1 minute to warm through. If the sauce is a little thick, stir in some of the reserved cooking liquid. Remove from the heat, stir in the marjoram and the Parmesan, and serve.

Panfried Dumplings Stuffed with Chicken and Mushrooms Jiao Zi (China) (China) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES ABOUT 32 32 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Most versions of these pot sticker dumplings are stuffed with a pork-based filling, but this one, made with chicken and mushrooms, is especially delicious. The pairing of dark-meat chicken and dried s.h.i.+take mushrooms is distinctly Chinese (see Nuo Mi Juan, Nuo Mi Juan, February), and it gives these dumplings a fragrant, gamy taste. If the pork dumplings are what you crave, however, you can make this recipe using the filling from the February), and it gives these dumplings a fragrant, gamy taste. If the pork dumplings are what you crave, however, you can make this recipe using the filling from the Zhu Rou Baozi Zhu Rou Baozi (May). (May).

These dumplings are made using the Pleated Half-Moon Fold, but you can also use the simpler Standing Half-Moon Fold.

For the Dough2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting1 tablespoon grapeseed or other neutral oilFor the Filling3 dried s.h.i.+take or black mushrooms, soaked in hot water to cover for 30 minutes2 boneless, skinless chicken thighs (about pound), chopped fine5 to 6 fresh water chestnuts, peeled and chopped fine, or canned water chestnuts, drained and chopped fine2 scallions, trimmed and sliced into thin rings1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger1 teaspoon cornstarch2 tablespoons soy sauce1 teaspoon rice wine1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepperFor Cooking and ServingGrapeseed or other neutral oil to coat a large skillet1 cup water mixed with 1 teaspoon unbleached all-purpose flour1 recipe Soy-Vinegar Sauce* (recipe follows) (recipe follows)Equipment3-inch round cookie cutterLarge, preferably nonstick skillet with cover 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place 2 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the oil and 1 cup water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Place 2 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the oil and 1 cup water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

2. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 2 to 3 minutes. The dough will be somewhat firm and elastic. Coat the dough with a little oil, return it to the bowl, cover with a clean kitchen towel, and let it rest for 30 minutes. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 2 to 3 minutes. The dough will be somewhat firm and elastic. Coat the dough with a little oil, return it to the bowl, cover with a clean kitchen towel, and let it rest for 30 minutes.

3. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: While the dough is resting, drain the mushrooms and squeeze out any excess liquid. Remove and discard the stems, finely chop the mushroom caps, and place them in a medium bowl along with the other filling ingredients. Mix together well and keep refrigerated until you are ready to a.s.semble the dumplings. While the dough is resting, drain the mushrooms and squeeze out any excess liquid. Remove and discard the stems, finely chop the mushroom caps, and place them in a medium bowl along with the other filling ingredients. Mix together well and keep refrigerated until you are ready to a.s.semble the dumplings.

4. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the jiao zi, jiao zi, review the Pleated Half-Moon Fold. review the Pleated Half-Moon Fold.

5. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Also have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Also have ready the dough and the filling.

6. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until about Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until about 1 1/8 inch thick. Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds. inch thick. Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds.

7. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 7 or 8. Collect the leftover dough and put it aside under a damp kitchen towel for later use. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 7 or 8. Collect the leftover dough and put it aside under a damp kitchen towel for later use.

8. Pick up 1 dough round and pleat and pinch one side. This will pull the round into a bowl shape. Place a rounded tablespoon of filling in the center. Bring together the edges, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and pinch along the top of the dumpling to seal. Place the dumpling, pleated side up, on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining rounds and filling. Keep the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the tray, covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Combine all the dough sc.r.a.ps, knead them into a ball, roll it out, cut out as many rounds as you can, and fill and fold those too. Pick up 1 dough round and pleat and pinch one side. This will pull the round into a bowl shape. Place a rounded tablespoon of filling in the center. Bring together the edges, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and pinch along the top of the dumpling to seal. Place the dumpling, pleated side up, on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining rounds and filling. Keep the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the tray, covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Combine all the dough sc.r.a.ps, knead them into a ball, roll it out, cut out as many rounds as you can, and fill and fold those too.

9. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see TIPS). Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see TIPS).

10. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Generously coat a large skillet with oil and heat it over medium heat. Arrange the dumplings in the pan, pleated side up, leaving a little s.p.a.ce around each. Cook until the bottoms just begin to brown. Choose an empty spot in the pan and pour in enough of the flour and water mixture to reach about a third of the way up the sides of the dumplings. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. (If cooking frozen Generously coat a large skillet with oil and heat it over medium heat. Arrange the dumplings in the pan, pleated side up, leaving a little s.p.a.ce around each. Cook until the bottoms just begin to brown. Choose an empty spot in the pan and pour in enough of the flour and water mixture to reach about a third of the way up the sides of the dumplings. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. (If cooking frozen jiao zi jiao zi, add them directly to the oil and increase the cooking time by 3 minutes. Do not allow the dumplings to thaw before cooking.) 11. Remove the cover so that any remaining liquid can cook off completely. Continue cooking until you hear a strong sizzling sound and the bottoms of the dumplings are golden brown and crisp. Remove the cover so that any remaining liquid can cook off completely. Continue cooking until you hear a strong sizzling sound and the bottoms of the dumplings are golden brown and crisp.

12. Remove the Remove the jiao zi jiao zi with a small spatula and place them on a plate. Serve immediately while you cook any remaining with a small spatula and place them on a plate. Serve immediately while you cook any remaining jiao zi jiao zi. Serve with the Soy-Vinegar Sauce.

SOY-VINEGAR SAUCE.

MAKES ABOUT CUP CUP.

cup soy sauce3 tablespoons rice vinegar2 teaspoons sugar1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil1 tablespoon finely chopped scallion Combine the soy sauce, rice vinegar, sugar, and sesame oil in a small bowl. Stir until the sugar has dissolved. Pour into small dipping bowls and add the scallion just before using. This sauce will keep for up to 1 week in the refrigerator in a tightly sealed container.MarchSTEAMED CORN BREAD.

(United States) SWEET POTATO DUMPLINGS WITH A MELTED SUGAR CENTER.

Onde-Onde (Malaysia) (Malaysia) TINY GNOCCHI AND CRANBERRY BEAN STEW.

Pisarei e Faso (Italy) (Italy) CAULIFLOWER SOUP WITH b.u.t.tERY BREAD CRUMB DUMPLINGS.

Kvtakova Polevka s Knedliky (Czech Republic) (Czech Republic) c.o.c.kLES WITH RICE DUMPLINGS IN A SPICY COCONUT SAUCE.

Kube Mutli (India) (India) CHICKPEA DUMPLINGS IN TOMATO SAUCE.

Chana Vada ki Tomatochi Bhaji (India) (India) KASHA AND MUSHROOM PIEROGI.

Pierogi z Kasz Gryczan (Poland) (Poland) RICE DUMPLINGS STUFFED WITH PORK AND KOHLRABI.

Fen Guo (China) (China) Steamed Corn Bread (United States) SERVES 6 6 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 1 1 DUMPLING DUMPLING).

Steaming corn bread instead of baking it makes it especially moist and flavorful. You can stir some corn kernels into the batter for a chunkier texture and an even deeper corn taste. Serve it up with some b.u.t.ter for a scrumptious side dish or snack. And as with baked corn bread, any leftovers can be used to make stuffing or bread pudding.

For the Dumpling1 cup coa.r.s.e yellow cornmeal1/3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour cup unbleached all-purpose flour1 teaspoon baking powder teaspoon baking soda1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg1 large egg, beaten1 cup milk2 tablespoons light muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS)2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted cup fresh corn kernels or frozen, thawed (optional)For CookingUnsalted b.u.t.ter to coat the cake panEquipment2-inch-high steamer rack9-inch round cake panPot large enough to hold both the rack and the pan when covered 1. Place the steamer rack in the pot, add 1 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, rub a little b.u.t.ter around the inside of the cake pan. Place the steamer rack in the pot, add 1 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, rub a little b.u.t.ter around the inside of the cake pan.

2. Combine the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and nutmeg in a large bowl. In another bowl, whisk the egg, milk, sugar, and melted b.u.t.ter until the sugar has mostly dissolved. Pour the egg mixture into the cornmeal mixture, add the corn kernels, if desired, and stir until just combined. Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan and wiggle it gently to level it off. Combine the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and nutmeg in a large bowl. In another bowl, whisk the egg, milk, sugar, and melted b.u.t.ter until the sugar has mostly dissolved. Pour the egg mixture into the cornmeal mixture, add the corn kernels, if desired, and stir until just combined. Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan and wiggle it gently to level it off.

3. Carefully place the filled cake pan on the steamer rack, cover the pot, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 25 to 30 minutes. Carefully place the filled cake pan on the steamer rack, cover the pot, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 25 to 30 minutes.

4. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully lift the pan out of the pot, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the corn bread to cool slightly. Slice and serve warm or at room temperature. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully lift the pan out of the pot, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the corn bread to cool slightly. Slice and serve warm or at room temperature.

Sweet Potato Dumplings with a Melted Sugar Center Onde-Onde (Malaysia) (Malaysia) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES ABOUT 40 40 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

These modest-looking dessert dumplings will surprise you. Inside each strawberry-sized dumpling is a warm sugar center that floods your mouth with a lush, b.u.t.tery flavor. Making these dumplings may seem like a challenge, but it is surprisingly easy. The b.a.l.l.s of dough are stuffed with a small piece of tasty palm sugar, and as the dumplings cook, the sugar melts slowly into syrup. If you can't find palm sugar, use jaggery or panela panela (see GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS) instead. Adding mashed sweet potato to the dough gives the (see GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS) instead. Adding mashed sweet potato to the dough gives the onde-onde onde-onde its pale orange color and a mild fruit flavor. its pale orange color and a mild fruit flavor.

These dumplings are made by pus.h.i.+ng a piece of sugar into a dough ball, but they can also be made using the Bowl Fold.

For the Filling2 ounces hard palm sugar or cup soft palm sugar or other unrefined sugar (see GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS)For the Dough1 small sweet potato (about pound)1 cups sweet (glutinous) rice flour, preferably from Malaysia or Thailand, plus some extra for dusting3 tablespoons pandan water (recipe follows) or teaspoon pandan extract mixed into 3 tablespoons waterFor Serving1 cup freshly grated coconut (see GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS), or 1 cup frozen grated coconut, thawed teaspoon saltEquipmentPotato ricerLarge, wide bowl to hold the cooked dumplings 1. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Depending on the type of palm sugar you are using, you will need to cut or roll the sugar into small -inch pieces. If using hard palm sugar, cut the sugar into small pieces and pick out as many -inch chunks as you can. Collect any crumbs or loose bits of sugar and pack them into b.a.l.l.s about the size of a pea by pressing and rubbing them between damp fingers. If using soft palm sugar, use a small spoon to scoop up about teaspoon sugar and compress the sugar into a ball with your fingers. When you have 40 sugar pieces or b.a.l.l.s, place them on a plate and set aside. Depending on the type of palm sugar you are using, you will need to cut or roll the sugar into small -inch pieces. If using hard palm sugar, cut the sugar into small pieces and pick out as many -inch chunks as you can. Collect any crumbs or loose bits of sugar and pack them into b.a.l.l.s about the size of a pea by pressing and rubbing them between damp fingers. If using soft palm sugar, use a small spoon to scoop up about teaspoon sugar and compress the sugar into a ball with your fingers. When you have 40 sugar pieces or b.a.l.l.s, place them on a plate and set aside.

2. BOIL THE SWEET POTATO BOIL THE SWEET POTATO: Place the sweet potato in a small saucepan, pour in enough water to cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until fork-tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and place the sweet potato on a folded kitchen towel. Once it's cool enough to handle, peel off its skin, break it into chunks, and press through the ricer into a small bowl. Place the sweet potato in a small saucepan, pour in enough water to cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until fork-tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and place the sweet potato on a folded kitchen towel. Once it's cool enough to handle, peel off its skin, break it into chunks, and press through the ricer into a small bowl.

3. Move the sweet potato onto a clean kitchen towel and pat it down into a circle about 6 inches wide. Fold the towel over or use a paper towel to soak up as much excess liquid as you can. Turn the sweet potato back into the bowl. Move the sweet potato onto a clean kitchen towel and pat it down into a circle about 6 inches wide. Fold the towel over or use a paper towel to soak up as much excess liquid as you can. Turn the sweet potato back into the bowl.

4. MAKE AND a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE AND a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: This is a very soft dough, and often the sugar piece can be pushed into the center of the dough ball. Using the Bowl Fold can help make centering the sugar even easier. This is a very soft dough, and often the sugar piece can be pushed into the center of the dough ball. Using the Bowl Fold can help make centering the sugar even easier.

5. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour. Also have ready the sugar pieces and all the dough ingredients. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour. Also have ready the sugar pieces and all the dough ingredients.

6. Place 1 cup of the rice flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the sweet potato and toss with your fingers until well mixed. Add the pandan water and use your hands to work the mixture into a dough. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If it is too soft and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time. Place 1 cup of the rice flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the sweet potato and toss with your fingers until well mixed. Add the pandan water and use your hands to work the mixture into a dough. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If it is too soft and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time.

7. Pinch off a very small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about inch around. Keep the remaining dough covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Use your thumbs to shape it into a bowl, just large enough to cradle a piece of sugar. Place one piece of sugar in the center of the dough bowl. Close by pus.h.i.+ng and pinching the edges of the dough around and over the filling until the sugar is surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Reroll into a ball, dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling. Pinch off a very small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about inch around. Keep the remaining dough covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Use your thumbs to shape it into a bowl, just large enough to cradle a piece of sugar. Place one piece of sugar in the center of the dough bowl. Close by pus.h.i.+ng and pinching the edges of the dough around and over the filling until the sugar is surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Reroll into a ball, dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.

8. COOK AND COAT THE DUMPLINGS COOK AND COAT THE DUMPLINGS: Spread the grated coconut out on a large plate and sprinkle it with the salt. Spread the grated coconut out on a large plate and sprinkle it with the salt.

9. Fill a large pot halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Add the dumplings to the water a few at a time and stir gently. Cook until all of them are floating, 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer. Fill a large pot halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Add the dumplings to the water a few at a time and stir gently. Cook until all of them are floating, 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer.

10. Remove the pot from the heat. Use a slotted spoon to remove the dumplings, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Remove the pot from the heat. Use a slotted spoon to remove the dumplings, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking.

11. Pick up 2 to 6 Pick up 2 to 6 onde-onde onde-onde and roll them around on the grated coconut. If they are at all dry, dampen their surfaces with your fingers to ensure an even coating. Place them on a plate and continue with the remaining and roll them around on the grated coconut. If they are at all dry, dampen their surfaces with your fingers to ensure an even coating. Place them on a plate and continue with the remaining onde-onde. onde-onde. Serve warm or at room temperature. Serve warm or at room temperature. Onde-onde Onde-onde can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. Allow them to come back to room temperature before serving. can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. Allow them to come back to room temperature before serving.

PANDAN WATER.

MAKES CUP CUP.

20 large fresh pandan leaves, or frozen, thawed, chopped coa.r.s.e 1. Pulse the pandan leaves once or twice in a food processor to start breaking down their fibers. Add cup water and process for 2 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. The pureed pandan bits will be very fibrous, and the water will turn a deep olive green. Pulse the pandan leaves once or twice in a food processor to start breaking down their fibers. Add cup water and process for 2 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. The pureed pandan bits will be very fibrous, and the water will turn a deep olive green.

2. Strain the pandan liquid through a sieve into a small bowl. Squeeze out any excess water from the pandan leaves. Measure out what you need for your recipe and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months. Strain the pandan liquid through a sieve into a small bowl. Squeeze out any excess water from the pandan leaves. Measure out what you need for your recipe and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months.

Tiny Gnocchi and Cranberry Bean Stew Pisarei e Faso (Italy) (Italy) SERVES 4 4.

A pot of stewed beans becomes an unusual and delectable dish when mixed with an equal quant.i.ty of tender yet chewy bean-sized dumplings. You can serve this dish as a side or as a meal with a simple salad. Such a large number of dumplings may take a little extra time to roll out and cut, but they're worth the effort. You may choose to curl the pisarei pisarei by gently pressing and slightly squis.h.i.+ng each one along your work surface. This optional step gives the dumpling a dimple, which allows more sauce to cling to it. by gently pressing and slightly squis.h.i.+ng each one along your work surface. This optional step gives the dumpling a dimple, which allows more sauce to cling to it.

For the Stew1 cups dried cranberry beans (borlotti) (borlotti) or pinto beans, soaked in plenty of water for 6 to 8 hours or 3 cups canned or pinto beans, soaked in plenty of water for 6 to 8 hours or 3 cups canned2 tablespoons olive oil pound pancetta or 4 strips bacon, chopped fine (about cup)1 medium yellow onion, chopped fine1 medium carrot, chopped fine1 celery rib, chopped fine1 tablespoon coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves3 garlic cloves, chopped fine4 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled (see Glossary of Ingredients) and crushed, or 4 canned plum tomatoes, drained and crushed (about 1 cup)1 tablespoon tomato paste1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh basil leaves cup freshly grated Parmesan cheeseFor the Dumplings2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting cup coa.r.s.e dry crustless white bread crumbs (see Glossary of Ingredients) teaspoon saltEquipmentLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE STEW MAKE THE STEW: Drain the beans. Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat and add the pancetta. Stir occasionally and cook until just beginning to crisp, about 2 minutes. Mix in the onion, carrot, celery, and rosemary and stir frequently until the onion is soft, about 4 minutes. Stir in the parsley and garlic and cook for 2 minutes longer. Pour in 5 cups water. Immediately stir in the beans, tomatoes, tomato paste, 1 teaspoon salt, and the pepper. Raise the heat to high and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the beans are fork-tender, 1 to 2 hours. (You can also make the stew up to 3 days in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container. If the stew is too thick to stir easily, add a little water to thin it out.) Drain the beans. Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat and add the pancetta. Stir occasionally and cook until just beginning to crisp, about 2 minutes. Mix in the onion, carrot, celery, and rosemary and stir frequently until the onion is soft, about 4 minutes. Stir in the parsley and garlic and cook for 2 minutes longer. Pour in 5 cups water. Immediately stir in the beans, tomatoes, tomato paste, 1 teaspoon salt, and the pepper. Raise the heat to high and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the beans are fork-tender, 1 to 2 hours. (You can also make the stew up to 3 days in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container. If the stew is too thick to stir easily, add a little water to thin it out.) 2. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: While the stew is simmering, place 1 cups of the flour in a large heatproof bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the bread crumbs and the teaspoon salt and mix well. While the stew is simmering, place 1 cups of the flour in a large heatproof bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the bread crumbs and the teaspoon salt and mix well.

3. Heat cup water in a small saucepan over medium heat until it is hot to the touch but not close to simmering. Pour the hot water into the flour mixture and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Let the dough cool slightly. Heat cup water in a small saucepan over medium heat until it is hot to the touch but not close to simmering. Pour the hot water into the flour mixture and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Let the dough cool slightly.

4. Carefully work the dough with your hands. If this is uncomfortable in any way, let it cool for another minute or two, but keep in mind that you need to work with this dough while it is still very, very warm. Work the dough in the bowl into one manageable ball. If the dough is too wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Carefully work the dough with your hands. If this is uncomfortable in any way, let it cool for another minute or two, but keep in mind that you need to work with this dough while it is still very, very warm. Work the dough in the bowl into one manageable ball. If the dough is too wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

5. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 3 to 4 minutes. Cover and let rest for 15 minutes at room temperature. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 3 to 4 minutes. Cover and let rest for 15 minutes at room temperature.

6. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour.

7. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 8 equal pieces, and set 7 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Roll the remaining piece into a rope about inch thick, and cut it into -inch pieces. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 8 equal pieces, and set 7 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Roll the remaining piece into a rope about inch thick, and cut it into -inch pieces.

8. If you don't want to curl the dumplings, place the cut dough pieces in a single layer on the prepared tray. If you do want to curl them, push your finger into the center of a cut piece of dough and gently squish and roll it toward you just long enough to create a deep dimple or a fat "C" shape. Place in a single layer on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough. Once all the If you don't want to curl the dumplings, place the cut dough pieces in a single layer on the prepared tray. If you do want to curl them, push your finger into the center of a cut piece of dough and gently squish and roll it toward you just long enough to create a deep dimple or a fat "C" shape. Place in a single layer on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough. Once all the pisarei pisarei have been cut, cover them with a kitchen towel and refrigerate until you are ready to add them to the stew. have been cut, cover them with a kitchen towel and refrigerate until you are ready to add them to the stew.

9. Once the stew has cooked for 1 to 2 hours, the level of the sauce should be slightly below the beans. Give it a good stir and mix in a little water if there is not enough sauce. Cover and reduce the heat to very, very low to keep the stew hot until it's time to add the dumplings. Once the stew has cooked for 1 to 2 hours, the level of the sauce should be slightly below the beans. Give it a good stir and mix in a little water if there is not enough sauce. Cover and reduce the heat to very, very low to keep the stew hot until it's time to add the dumplings.

10. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

11. Move half of the dumplings onto a plate, slide them into the simmering water, and stir gently to prevent sticking. Cook until all of the dumplings are floating, about 2 minutes. Move half of the dumplings onto a plate, slide them into the simmering water, and stir gently to prevent sticking. Cook until all of the dumplings are floating, about 2 minutes.

12. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, drizzle them with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Reserve 1 cup of the cooking liquid. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, drizzle them with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Reserve 1 cup of the cooking liquid.

13. Drain the dumplings and mix them into the stew. If the stew is too thick to stir easily, mix in some of the reserved cooking liquid. Raise the heat to medium and heat through for 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir in the basil and Parmesan, and serve. Drain the dumplings and mix them into the stew. If the stew is too thick to stir easily, mix in some of the reserved cooking liquid. Raise the heat to medium and heat through for 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir in the basil and Parmesan, and serve.

Cauliflower Soup with b.u.t.tery Bread Crumb Dumplings Kvtakova Polevka s Knedliky (Czech Republic) (Czech Republic) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES ABOUT 40 40 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

This easy, no-frills cauliflower soup is grand when it's cold outside. The grape-sized bread dumplings cook up quickly and soak up a good amount of flavor. They're firm but not chewy, like soft meatb.a.l.l.s, and they add a certain robust character to the soup.

For the Soup3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunks2 medium leeks, white and light green parts only, rinsed and chopped coa.r.s.e2 large parsnips, peeled and cut into -inch rounds1 small turnip, peeled and cut into -inch cubes teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour1 teaspoons salt1 small cauliflower, cored and cut into small florets1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh dillFor the Dumplings1 cups fine dry crustless white bread crumbs (see Glossary of Ingredients)1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting teaspoon salt2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted2 large eggs, beaten2 tablespoons milk or water2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh dill 1. MAKE THE SOUP MAKE THE SOUP: Melt the 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a medium pot over low heat. Add the leeks and stir frequently until very soft, about 10 minutes. If the leeks look dry or begin to sizzle as they cook, stir in a little water to prevent them from browning. Mix in the parsnips, turnip, and nutmeg, then sprinkle in the 2 tablespoons flour and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Melt the 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a medium pot over low heat. Add the leeks and stir frequently until very soft, about 10 minutes. If the leeks look dry or begin to sizzle as they cook, stir in a little water to prevent them from browning. Mix in the parsnips, turnip, and nutmeg, then sprinkle in the 2 tablespoons flour and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly.

2. Pour in 6 cups water, add the 1 teaspoons salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Pour in 6 cups water, add the 1 teaspoons salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: While the soup is simmering, place 1 cup of the bread crumbs in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Mix the 1 tablespoon flour and the teaspoon salt into the bread crumbs. In another bowl, whisk together the melted b.u.t.ter, eggs, milk, and 2 teaspoons of the dill. Add the egg mixture to the bread crumb mixture and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If the dough is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining bread crumbs, a little at a time. Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes. While the soup is simmering, place 1 cup of the bread crumbs in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Mix the 1 tablespoon flour and the teaspoon salt into the bread crumbs. In another bowl, whisk together the melted b.u.t.ter, eggs, milk, and 2 teaspoons of the dill. Add the egg mixture to the bread crumb mixture and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If the dough is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining bread crumbs, a little at a time. Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

4. Once the soup has simmered for 30 minutes, stir in the cauliflower, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes longer. Reduce the heat to very, very low to keep the soup hot until it's time to add the dumplings. (You can also make the soup in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days.) Once the soup has simmered for 30 minutes, stir in the cauliflower, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes longer. Reduce the heat to very, very low to keep the soup hot until it's time to add the dumplings. (You can also make the soup in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days.) 5. MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour.

6. Fill a medium pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Fill a medium pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer.

7. While waiting for the water to come to a boil, start rolling your dumplings. Pinch off a very small piece of dough, roll it into a ball about inch around, dust it with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough. This is a soft dough, so b.a.l.l.s may not hold their shape perfectly, especially as the b.u.t.ter in the dough begins to warm. While waiting for the water to come to a boil, start rolling your dumplings. Pinch off a very small piece of dough, roll it into a ball about inch around, dust it with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough. This is a soft dough, so b.a.l.l.s may not hold their shape perfectly, especially as the b.u.t.ter in the dough begins to warm.

8. Drop the dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Stir occasionally. Cook until all of them are floating, about 1 minute, then cook for 1 minute longer. Drop the dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Stir occasionally. Cook until all of them are floating, about 1 minute, then cook for 1 minute longer.

9. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon and place them directly in the soup. Remove from the heat, stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon dill, and serve. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon and place them directly in the soup. Remove from the heat, stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon dill, and serve.

c.o.c.kles with Rice Dumplings in a Spicy Coconut Sauce Kube Mutli (India) (India) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES ABOUT 40 40 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

This outstanding sh.e.l.lfish stew is utterly sumptuous because it is full of plump, nibbly dumplings made from freshly ground basmati rice. Making these dumplings from scratch involves three separate steps: grinding the rice in a spice grinder, partially cooking the rice in just enough liquid to form a sticky dough, and finally, rolling the dough into b.a.l.l.s and steaming them before dropping them into the stew. It sounds like a lot of work, but every one of these steps is easy and nearly impossible to mess up. If c.o.c.kles are not available, you can use any other type of small clam.

For the Coconut Spice Mixture2/3 cup freshly grated and dried coconut (see Glossary of Ingredients) or unsweetened dried grated coconut cup freshly grated and dried coconut (see Glossary of Ingredients) or unsweetened dried grated coconut1 tablespoons coriander seeds1 teaspoon c.u.min seeds1 teaspoon black or brown mustard seeds1 teaspoon black peppercorns2 to 3 small dried hot red chiles, such as Kashmiri Kashmiri or or lal mirch, lal mirch, tougher top ends cut off tougher top ends cut offFor the Dumplings1 cups white basmati or other long-grain rice, finely ground in a clean spice or coffee grinder, or 1 cups preground rice (rice sooji, sooji, rice rice rava, rava, or or idli rava idli rava)1 teaspoon saltWhite rice flour for dustingFor the Stew2 tablespoons ghee (Glossary of Ingredients) or a neutral oil, such as grapeseed1 large yellow onion, cut in half and sliced thin2 garlic cloves, chopped very fine2 cups fresh coconut milk (see Glossary of Ingredients) or 2 cups measured from one 14-ounce can coconut milk mixed with 1 cup water2 teaspoons ground turmeric1 tablespoon tamarind paste teaspoon salt3 pounds fresh c.o.c.kles or other very small clams, scrubbed clean under cold running water and kept on ice (discard any c.o.c.kles that do not close when you tap them)EquipmentClean spice or coffee grinder8- to 10-quart steamer pot24-inch square of muslinLarge plate or tray to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE COCONUT SPICE MIXTURE MAKE THE COCONUT SPICE MIXTURE: Combine all the ingredients for the coconut spice mixture in a medium skillet over medium heat. Shake and stir the coconut mixture continuously until the coconut is lightly browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove from the heat, scoop into a shallow bowl, and allow it to cool to room temperature. Once cooled, grind in the spice grinder until you have a coa.r.s.e powder and set aside. (You can make the coconut spice mixture in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed gla.s.s container for up to 1 month.) Combine all the ingredients for the coconut spice mixture in a medium skillet over medium heat. Shake and stir the coconut mixture continuously until the coconut is lightly browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove from the heat, scoop into a shallow bowl, and allow it to cool to room temperature. Once cooled, grind in the spice grinder until you have a coa.r.s.e powder and set aside. (You can make the coconut spice mixture in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed gla.s.s container for up to 1 month.) 2. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: Place the ground rice and the 1 teaspoon salt in a large saucepan. Pour in 2 cups water and place over medium heat. Cook, stirring continuously, until all the liquid has been absorbed and the mixture thickens into a soft dough that pulls away from the sides of the pot, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, move the dough into a bowl, and allow it to cool slightly. Place the ground rice and the 1 teaspoon salt in a large saucepan. Pour in 2 cups water and place over medium heat. Cook, stirring continuously, until all the liquid has been absorbed and the mixture thickens into a soft dough that pulls away from the sides of the pot, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, move the dough into a bowl, and allow it to cool slightly.

3. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour.

4. While it is still warm, pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inch around, dust with flour, and place it on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough. While it is still warm, pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inch around, dust with flour, and place it on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough.

5. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 1 inch of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Soak the muslin under running water, wring it out, then drape it inside the basket, creating a lining. Arrange as many dumplings in the lined basket as you can fit without their touching. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 15 minutes. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 1 inch of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Soak the muslin under running water, wring it out, then drape it inside the basket, creating a lining. Arrange as many dumplings in the lined basket as you can fit without their touching. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 15 minutes.

6. MAKE THE STEW MAKE THE STEW: While the dumplings are steaming, melt the ghee in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the onion and stir frequently until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and the coconut spice mixture and stir until the mixture is golden brown. Pour in the coconut milk and 2 cups water, then stir in the turmeric, tamarind paste, and teaspoon salt. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat, then reduce the heat to low, and keep covered until the dumplings are ready to be added. If using fresh coconut milk, do not let it come to a boil, or it will separate into what looks like a superfine curdle and you will have to start the stew over. While the dumplings are steaming, melt the ghee in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the onion and stir frequently until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and the coconut spice mixture and stir until the mixture is golden brown. Pour in the coconut milk and 2 cups water, then stir in the turmeric, tamarind paste, and teaspoon salt. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat, then reduce the heat to low, and keep covered until the dumplings are ready to be added. If using fresh coconut milk, do not let it come to a boil, or it will separate into what looks like a superfine curdle and you will have to start the stew over.

7. Once the dumplings have cooked, remove the steamer pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Arrange the dumplings in a single layer on the large plate or tray, lightly sprinkle them with a few spoonfuls of water to prevent sticking, and cover with a kitchen towel. Cook any remaining dumplings and place them on the plate with another few spoonfuls of water. Once all the dumplings have been cooked and arranged on the plate, keep them covered until it's time to add them to the stew. Once the dumplings have cooked, remove the steamer pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Arrange the dumplings in a single layer on the large plate or tray, lightly sprinkle them with a few spoonfuls of water to prevent sticking, and cover with a kitchen towel. Cook any remaining dumplings and place them on the plate with another few spoonfuls of water. Once all the dumplings have been cooked and arranged on the plate, keep them covered until it's time to add them to the stew.

8. FINISH THE STEW FINISH THE STEW: Bring the stew back to a simmer over medium heat. Stir in the dumplings, then gently stir in the c.o.c.kles, cover, and cook until all the c.o.c.kles have opened, about 5 minutes, and serve. Bring the stew back to a simmer over medium heat. Stir in the dumplings, then gently stir in the c.o.c.kles, cover, and cook until all the c.o.c.kles have opened, about 5 minutes, and serve.

Chickpea Dumplings in Tomato Sauce Chana Vada ki Tomatochi Bhaji (India) (India) SERVES 2 2 TO TO 4 ( 4 (MAKES ABOUT 20 20 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Made from a small chickpealike bean (chana dal), these dumplings, like many other dumplings from North India, are fried before being added to a simmering sauce. Containing no egg, flour, or other binder, they would fall apart without the crispy skin that frying gives them. Once they have been simmered in this mild and tangy tomato sauce, they become tender and more delicate.

For the Dumplings cup chana dal chana dal (a type of dried split chickpea), soaked in plenty of water for 6 to 8 hours (a type of dried split chickpea), soaked in plenty of water for 6 to 8 hours2 to 3 small hot green chiles, such as Kashmiri Kashmiri or or lal mirch lal mirch, seeded and chopped fine1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves1/8 teaspoon baking powder teaspoon baking powder1 teaspoon salt8 to 10 large fresh spinach leaves, stemmedFor CookingGrapeseed or other neutral oil with a high smoking point for shallow fryingFor the Sauce cup grapeseed or other neutral oil1 large onion, cut in half and sliced thin1 teaspoon freshly ground c.u.min2 teaspoons coriander seeds, freshly ground1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger3 garlic cloves, chopped fine3 plum tomatoes, chopped coa.r.s.e1 teaspoon ground turmeric teaspoon chile powder, preferably from India1 teaspoons saltFor Serving3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves 1. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Drain the Drain the chana dal, chana dal, place in a food processor, and process until broken into bits, about 4 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Continue to pulse while adding up to 5 tablespoons water, a little at a time, until you have a gritty paste. place in a food processor, and process until broken into bits, about 4 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Continue to pulse while adding up to 5 tablespoons water, a little at a time, until you have a gritty paste.