The Dumpling_ A Seasonal Guide Part 6

2. Scoop the batter into a medium bowl. Stir in the chiles, 1 tablespoon cilantro, the baking powder, and 1 teaspoon salt. Stack the spinach leaves and roll them up into a cigar shape. Thinly slice the rolled leaves and mix them into the batter. Scoop the batter into a medium bowl. Stir in the chiles, 1 tablespoon cilantro, the baking powder, and 1 teaspoon salt. Stack the spinach leaves and roll them up into a cigar shape. Thinly slice the rolled leaves and mix them into the batter.

3. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: Line 2 large plates with a couple layers of paper towels. Fill a large, deep skillet with 1 inch of grapeseed oil and heat over medium heat. To check the temperature of the oil, dip the end of a dry wooden spoon into the center of the pan. The oil is ready when it bubbles actively around the edges of the spoon. Line 2 large plates with a couple layers of paper towels. Fill a large, deep skillet with 1 inch of grapeseed oil and heat over medium heat. To check the temperature of the oil, dip the end of a dry wooden spoon into the center of the pan. The oil is ready when it bubbles actively around the edges of the spoon.

4. Scoop up a rounded teaspoon of batter. Use another spoon or your finger to move the batter gently off the spoon and into the oil. Drop in spoonfuls of the remaining batter, leaving as much s.p.a.ce as you can around each. Cook until lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Carefully turn the fritters over with a fork and cook until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Scoop up a rounded teaspoon of batter. Use another spoon or your finger to move the batter gently off the spoon and into the oil. Drop in spoonfuls of the remaining batter, leaving as much s.p.a.ce as you can around each. Cook until lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Carefully turn the fritters over with a fork and cook until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes longer.

5. Remove the fritters with a slotted spoon, place them in a single layer on one of the prepared plates, and allow them to cool to room temperature. Remove the fritters with a slotted spoon, place them in a single layer on one of the prepared plates, and allow them to cool to room temperature.

6. Fill a large bowl three-quarters of the way with cold water. Slide the cooled fritters into the water and soak for 1 minute. Using your hand, scoop them up one by one and gently jiggle off the excess water. Place the soaked fritters in a single layer on the other prepared plate and set aside. Fill a large bowl three-quarters of the way with cold water. Slide the cooled fritters into the water and soak for 1 minute. Using your hand, scoop them up one by one and gently jiggle off the excess water. Place the soaked fritters in a single layer on the other prepared plate and set aside.

7. MAKE THE SAUCE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE SAUCE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the onion. Stir occasionally until the onion begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the c.u.min, coriander, ginger, and garlic and stir for 1 minute longer. Mix in the tomatoes, turmeric, chile powder, and 1 teaspoons salt. Reduce the heat to low and stir frequently until the tomato softens and breaks apart, about 10 minutes. Pour in 1 quart water, raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Cover and reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the onion. Stir occasionally until the onion begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the c.u.min, coriander, ginger, and garlic and stir for 1 minute longer. Mix in the tomatoes, turmeric, chile powder, and 1 teaspoons salt. Reduce the heat to low and stir frequently until the tomato softens and breaks apart, about 10 minutes. Pour in 1 quart water, raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Cover and reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer.

8. Carefully arrange the soaked fritters in the simmering sauce, leaving a little s.p.a.ce between them. Cover and cook for 10 minutes, occasionally shaking the pan to prevent sticking. Remove from the heat. Sprinkle with the 3 tablespoons of cilantro and serve. Carefully arrange the soaked fritters in the simmering sauce, leaving a little s.p.a.ce between them. Cover and cook for 10 minutes, occasionally shaking the pan to prevent sticking. Remove from the heat. Sprinkle with the 3 tablespoons of cilantro and serve.

Kasha and Mushroom Pierogi Pierogi z Kasz Gryczan (Poland) (Poland) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES ABOUT 40 40 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

The meaty taste of these vegetarian pierogi would lead you to think the filling included some amount of beef, but it's the combination of kasha (toasted buckwheat groats) and mushrooms that creates such rich flavors. Kasha has a warm nutty essence, but by toasting it once again in your own kitchen you revive it and bring out an even deeper flavor. It's important to use dried mushrooms in this recipe because they have a more intense flavor than fresh.

These dumplings are made using the Half-Moon Fold.

For the Dough2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting1 large egg, beaten3 tablespoons sour cream2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted cup warm water teaspoon saltFor the Filling1/3 cup coa.r.s.e kasha cup coa.r.s.e kasha ounce dried porcini mushrooms, soaked in 1 cup hot water for 1 hour2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunks1 small yellow onion, chopped fine1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepperFor Serving*3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted just before serving cup fried bread crumbs (see Glossary of Ingredients)Sour creamEquipment2-inch round cookie cutterLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place 1 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. In another bowl, whisk together the egg, 3 tablespoons sour cream, 2 tablespoons melted b.u.t.ter, warm water, and teaspoon salt. Add the egg mixture to the flour and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Place 1 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. In another bowl, whisk together the egg, 3 tablespoons sour cream, 2 tablespoons melted b.u.t.ter, warm water, and teaspoon salt. Add the egg mixture to the flour and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

2. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 2 to 3 minutes. The dough will be somewhat firm and smooth. Return the dough ball to the bowl, cover, and let it rest for 30 minutes. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 2 to 3 minutes. The dough will be somewhat firm and smooth. Return the dough ball to the bowl, cover, and let it rest for 30 minutes.

3. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Place the kasha in a small skillet over medium heat. Toast the grains, stirring frequently, until they are noticeably darker in color and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. Immediately move to a small bowl to cool. Place the kasha in a small skillet over medium heat. Toast the grains, stirring frequently, until they are noticeably darker in color and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. Immediately move to a small bowl to cool.

4. Fish out the soaked mushrooms with your fingers and squeeze the excess liquid back into the bowl. Set the liquid aside and finely chop the mushrooms. Strain and reserve cup of the soaking liquid. (If you have less than cup, add just enough water to make cup.) Pour the soaking liquid into a small pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in the toasted kasha, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until all the liquid has been absorbed, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, keep covered, and set aside. Fish out the soaked mushrooms with your fingers and squeeze the excess liquid back into the bowl. Set the liquid aside and finely chop the mushrooms. Strain and reserve cup of the soaking liquid. (If you have less than cup, add just enough water to make cup.) Pour the soaking liquid into a small pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in the toasted kasha, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until all the liquid has been absorbed, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, keep covered, and set aside.

5. Melt the 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and stir frequently until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the mushrooms and stir until the onion is golden brown, about 5 minutes. Scoop into a food processor, add the kasha, the 1 teaspoon salt, and the pepper and pulse until it becomes a coa.r.s.e mash. Scoop into a bowl and allow it to cool to room temperature. Melt the 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and stir frequently until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the mushrooms and stir until the onion is golden brown, about 5 minutes. Scoop into a food processor, add the kasha, the 1 teaspoon salt, and the pepper and pulse until it becomes a coa.r.s.e mash. Scoop into a bowl and allow it to cool to room temperature.

6. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the pierogi, review the Half-Moon Fold. Before a.s.sembling the pierogi, review the Half-Moon Fold.

7. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling.

8. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball and roll it out until it's about Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball and roll it out until it's about 1 1/8 inch thick. Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. inch thick. Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky.

9. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 8 to 10. Collect the sc.r.a.ps from around the rounds and put aside under a damp kitchen towel for later use. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 8 to 10. Collect the sc.r.a.ps from around the rounds and put aside under a damp kitchen towel for later use.

10. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough rounds. Brush each round with a very thin coating of water to make it sticky enough to seal. Center a rounded teaspoon of filling on top of each round, fold each neatly in half, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Combine all the dough sc.r.a.ps, knead them into a ball, roll it out, cut out as many rounds as you can, and fill and fold those too. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough rounds. Brush each round with a very thin coating of water to make it sticky enough to seal. Center a rounded teaspoon of filling on top of each round, fold each neatly in half, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Combine all the dough sc.r.a.ps, knead them into a ball, roll it out, cut out as many rounds as you can, and fill and fold those too.

11. Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

12. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

13. Gently drop up to 20 dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Stir gently to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 3 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen pierogi, add them directly to the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 2 minutes. Do not allow the pierogi to thaw before cooking.) Gently drop up to 20 dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Stir gently to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 3 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen pierogi, add them directly to the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 2 minutes. Do not allow the pierogi to thaw before cooking.) 14. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle them with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid and keep warm. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle them with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid and keep warm.

15. Once all the pierogi have been cooked, drain and place them in a large, shallow serving bowl. Drizzle with the 3 tablespoons melted b.u.t.ter and top with fried bread crumbs. Serve with sour cream. Once all the pierogi have been cooked, drain and place them in a large, shallow serving bowl. Drizzle with the 3 tablespoons melted b.u.t.ter and top with fried bread crumbs. Serve with sour cream.

Rice Dumplings Stuffed with Pork and Kohlrabi Fen Guo (China) (China) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES ABOUT 32 32 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Fen guo can be made with different fillings, but their common feature is a delicate round of rice dough wrapped around the freshest ingredients available. This recipe includes pork, mushrooms, and kohlrabi. Kohlrabi, which looks very much like a turnip, has a mild and clean flavor similar to napa cabbage and absorbs other flavors very well. It is often available at supermarkets, as well as at certain Asian markets, but if not, you can easily subst.i.tute a small turnip, a small jicama, or a large carrot. Once these dumplings are cooked, they should be served immediately, because they tend to stiffen up once cool. can be made with different fillings, but their common feature is a delicate round of rice dough wrapped around the freshest ingredients available. This recipe includes pork, mushrooms, and kohlrabi. Kohlrabi, which looks very much like a turnip, has a mild and clean flavor similar to napa cabbage and absorbs other flavors very well. It is often available at supermarkets, as well as at certain Asian markets, but if not, you can easily subst.i.tute a small turnip, a small jicama, or a large carrot. Once these dumplings are cooked, they should be served immediately, because they tend to stiffen up once cool.

These dumplings are made using the Standing Half-Moon Fold, but you can also use the more detailed Pleated Half-Moon Fold.

For the Filling4 dried s.h.i.+take or black mushrooms, soaked in hot water to cover for 30 minutes15 to 20 small or medium dried shrimp, soaked in hot water to cover for 30 minutes3 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil pound boneless pork loin, chopped fine1 link Chinese pork sausage (la chang), chopped fine (about 1 1/3 cup) cup)1 small kohlrabi or small turnip, peeled and chopped fine (about 1 cups)2 tablespoons rice wine1 tablespoon soy sauce teaspoon sugar1/8 teaspoon salt Pinch of freshly ground white pepper teaspoon salt Pinch of freshly ground white pepper cup finely chopped fresh cilantro stems and leavesFor the Dough2 cups regular white rice flour, preferably from China or Thailand, plus some extra for dustingFor Cooking and ServingSoft lettuce leaves, such as Boston, to line the steamer basket and serving plate1 recipe Soy-Vinegar SauceEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Drain the mushrooms and squeeze out any excess liquid. Remove and discard the stems and finely chop the mushroom caps. Drain and finely chop the shrimp. Drain the mushrooms and squeeze out any excess liquid. Remove and discard the stems and finely chop the mushroom caps. Drain and finely chop the shrimp.

2. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over high heat. Add the pork, sausage, and shrimp. Stir frequently until the pork is just beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Add the kohlrabi and mushrooms and stir until well combined. Add the rice wine and sc.r.a.pe up any bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Add the soy sauce, sugar, salt, and pepper and stir vigorously for 1 minute longer. Remove from the heat and stir in the cilantro. Scoop into a shallow bowl and allow it to cool completely. (You can also make the filling in advance and keep it tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.) Heat the oil in a medium skillet over high heat. Add the pork, sausage, and shrimp. Stir frequently until the pork is just beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Add the kohlrabi and mushrooms and stir until well combined. Add the rice wine and sc.r.a.pe up any bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Add the soy sauce, sugar, salt, and pepper and stir vigorously for 1 minute longer. Remove from the heat and stir in the cilantro. Scoop into a shallow bowl and allow it to cool completely. (You can also make the filling in advance and keep it tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.) 3. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place 2 cups of the rice flour in a large heatproof bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Place 2 cups of the rice flour in a large heatproof bowl and keep the remaining cup handy.

4. Heat 1 cup water over medium heat until it is hot to the touch but not close to simmering. Add the hot water to the flour and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Let the dough cool slightly. Heat 1 cup water over medium heat until it is hot to the touch but not close to simmering. Add the hot water to the flour and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Let the dough cool slightly.

5. Carefully work the dough with your hands. If this is in any way uncomfortable, let it cool for another minute or two, but keep in mind that you need to work with this dough while it is still very, very warm. Work the dough in the bowl into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Keep the dough covered with a towel while a.s.sembling the dumplings. Carefully work the dough with your hands. If this is in any way uncomfortable, let it cool for another minute or two, but keep in mind that you need to work with this dough while it is still very, very warm. Work the dough in the bowl into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Keep the dough covered with a towel while a.s.sembling the dumplings.

6. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the fen guo, fen guo, review the Standing Half-Moon Fold. review the Standing Half-Moon Fold.

7. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour. Have ready the very warm dough and the cooled filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour. Have ready the very warm dough and the cooled filling.

8. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inches around. Flatten the ball into a thick disk and dust each side with rice flour. Place the disk on a floured surface and roll it out into a 3-inch round. Center a rounded tablespoon of filling on top of the round, fold it neatly in half, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Holding the dumpling by the seam, tap its base on your work surface until it is flat enough on the bottom to sit upright. Place it on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling. Keep the dumplings in a single layer on the tray covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inches around. Flatten the ball into a thick disk and dust each side with rice flour. Place the disk on a floured surface and roll it out into a 3-inch round. Center a rounded tablespoon of filling on top of the round, fold it neatly in half, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Holding the dumpling by the seam, tap its base on your work surface until it is flat enough on the bottom to sit upright. Place it on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling. Keep the dumplings in a single layer on the tray covered with a kitchen towel as you work.

9. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line the basket with lettuce leaves. Arrange as many dumplings in the basket as you can, s.p.a.cing them about inch apart. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for 15 minutes. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line the basket with lettuce leaves. Arrange as many dumplings in the basket as you can, s.p.a.cing them about inch apart. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for 15 minutes.

10. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the fen guo fen guo to cool slightly. Arrange a few lettuce leaves on a plate. Use a spoon or a small spatula to move the to cool slightly. Arrange a few lettuce leaves on a plate. Use a spoon or a small spatula to move the fen guo fen guo to the prepared plate. Serve immediately while you cook any remaining to the prepared plate. Serve immediately while you cook any remaining fen guo fen guo. Serve with Soy-Vinegar Sauce.AprilMASA BALL SOUP.

Sopa de Bolitas de Masa (Mexico) (Mexico) CHICKPEA SQUARES TOPPED WITH MUSTARD SEEDS AND SPICED OIL.

Khaman Dhokla (India) (India) NINE-LAYER COCONUT TAPIOCA CAKE.

Khanom Chan (Thailand) (Thailand) SALTY-SWEET BEAN PUDDINGS WITH COCONUT CREAM TOPPING.

Khanom Thuay (Thailand) (Thailand) MATZO b.a.l.l.s IN A BEEF BROTH.

Fleischsuppe mit Matzoknepfle (France) (France) CHIVE-STUFFED DUMPLINGS WITH TOMATO SAUCE AND MINTED YOGURT.

Ashak (Afghanistan) (Afghanistan) WHEAT DUMPLINGS STUFFED WITH TURMERIC-STAINED POTATOES.

Shogo Momo (Tibet) (Tibet) WHEAT DUMPLINGS STUFFED WITH BEEF AND ONION.

Sha Momo (Tibet) (Tibet) SPICY LAMB-FILLED DUMPLINGS IN A THICK YOGURT SOUP.

Sheesh Barak bi Laban (Lebanon) (Lebanon) OVEN-SIMMERED LAMB-FILLED DUMPLINGS WITH MINTED YOGURT.

Manti (Turkey) (Turkey) DUMPLINGS STUFFED WITH PORK AND CABBAGE.

Mandu (Korea) (Korea) Masa Ball Soup Sopa de Bolitas de Masa (Mexico) (Mexico) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES ABOUT 24 24 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

These masa harina dumplings, flavored with cheese and jalapenos, are delectable in a bowl of spicy chicken soup. Masa harina is a processed meal available at Mexican markets and many supermarkets. Because the dough is made without any binders, the masa harina b.a.l.l.s must be fried before being cooked in the soup. A number of recipes call for deep-frying, but similar results can be achieved by rolling the b.a.l.l.s around in a skillet with only a small amount of oil. Queso anejo Queso anejo is an aged Mexican cheese that is also available at Mexican markets and at some supermarkets. is an aged Mexican cheese that is also available at Mexican markets and at some supermarkets.

For the Dumplings1 cup masa harina, plus some extra for dusting teaspoon baking powder teaspoon salt3 tablespoons nonhydrogenated lard or vegetable shortening, at room temperature1/3 cup Chicken Broth with Mexican Flavors cup Chicken Broth with Mexican Flavors2/3 cup freshly grated cup freshly grated queso anejo queso anejo or Romano cheese or Romano cheese2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves1 to 2 jalapeno chiles, seeded and chopped fineFor the Soup6 cups Chicken Broth with Mexican Flavors1 medium white onion, chopped coa.r.s.e1 garlic clove, peeled2 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded (Glossary of Ingredients), and chopped coa.r.s.e1 tablespoon dried Mexican (not Mediterranean) oregano1 teaspoon ground c.u.min1 teaspoon ground pasilla pasilla or or ancho ancho chile chile1 cup fresh corn kernels, or frozen, unthawed teaspoon salt3 fresh cilantro sprigs, chopped coa.r.s.eFor CookingGrapeseed or other neutral oil with a high smoking point for shallow frying 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Combine 1 cup masa harina with the baking powder and the teaspoon salt in a large bowl. Add the lard and mix until well combined. Pour in half of the Combine 1 cup masa harina with the baking powder and the teaspoon salt in a large bowl. Add the lard and mix until well combined. Pour in half of the 1 1/3 cup broth and stir until all the liquid has been absorbed. Mix in more broth, one spoonful at a time, until you have a thick, pasty batter. This batter will just hold its shape when scooped up with a spoon. Mix in the cup broth and stir until all the liquid has been absorbed. Mix in more broth, one spoonful at a time, until you have a thick, pasty batter. This batter will just hold its shape when scooped up with a spoon. Mix in the queso anejo queso anejo, 2 tablespoons cilantro, and the jalapeno. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. The batter will firm up as it cools, and you will have a soft, easy-to-shape dough. (You can also make the dough 1 day in advance and keep it tightly wrapped in the refrigerator.) 2. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little masa harina. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little masa harina.

3. Pinch off a small piece of dough, roll it into a ball about 1 inches around, dust with a little masa harina, and place it on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough. Pinch off a small piece of dough, roll it into a ball about 1 inches around, dust with a little masa harina, and place it on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough.

4. Line a large plate with a couple of layers of paper towels. Add inch oil to a medium skillet and heat over medium heat. To check the temperature of the oil, dip the end of a dry wooden spoon into the center of the pan. The oil is ready when it bubbles actively around the edges of the spoon. Line a large plate with a couple of layers of paper towels. Add inch oil to a medium skillet and heat over medium heat. To check the temperature of the oil, dip the end of a dry wooden spoon into the center of the pan. The oil is ready when it bubbles actively around the edges of the spoon.

5. Carefully place 8 masa harina b.a.l.l.s in the oil. Gently and constantly shake the pan to keep the b.a.l.l.s rolling. This constant movement helps these soft b.a.l.l.s keep their shape and brown evenly. Keep the pan moving until they're golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, carefully move them to the prepared plate. Cook the remaining masa harina b.a.l.l.s, adding more oil after each batch. As soon as the last batch has been browned and placed on the plate, discard all but 1 tablespoon of the oil from the pan. Set the pan aside for later use. The browned masa harina b.a.l.l.s can be kept at room temperature while you prepare the soup. Carefully place 8 masa harina b.a.l.l.s in the oil. Gently and constantly shake the pan to keep the b.a.l.l.s rolling. This constant movement helps these soft b.a.l.l.s keep their shape and brown evenly. Keep the pan moving until they're golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, carefully move them to the prepared plate. Cook the remaining masa harina b.a.l.l.s, adding more oil after each batch. As soon as the last batch has been browned and placed on the plate, discard all but 1 tablespoon of the oil from the pan. Set the pan aside for later use. The browned masa harina b.a.l.l.s can be kept at room temperature while you prepare the soup.

6. MAKE THE SOUP AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE SOUP AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Pour the 6 cups chicken broth into a medium pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover and reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Pour the 6 cups chicken broth into a medium pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover and reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

7. While the broth is coming to a boil, pulse the onion, garlic, and tomatoes in a food processor until light and pulpy. Heat the pan with the reserved oil over high heat. Carefully and quickly scoop in the onion mixture. When the onion mixture begins to simmer, reduce the heat to medium and stir in the oregano, c.u.min, and chile powder. Cook, stirring frequently, until most of the liquid has cooked off and you have a brownish paste, 5 to 6 minutes. While the broth is coming to a boil, pulse the onion, garlic, and tomatoes in a food processor until light and pulpy. Heat the pan with the reserved oil over high heat. Carefully and quickly scoop in the onion mixture. When the onion mixture begins to simmer, reduce the heat to medium and stir in the oregano, c.u.min, and chile powder. Cook, stirring frequently, until most of the liquid has cooked off and you have a brownish paste, 5 to 6 minutes.

8. Stir the cooked onion mixture, corn, and teaspoon salt into the simmering broth. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the masa harina b.a.l.l.s to the soup a few at a time. Cover and simmer for 3 minutes longer. Sprinkle with the chopped cilantro sprigs and serve. Stir the cooked onion mixture, corn, and teaspoon salt into the simmering broth. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the masa harina b.a.l.l.s to the soup a few at a time. Cover and simmer for 3 minutes longer. Sprinkle with the chopped cilantro sprigs and serve.

Chickpea Squares Topped with Mustard Seeds and Spiced Oil Khaman Dhokla (India) (India) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 1 1 DUMPLING DUMPLING).

This savory steamed cake, made from semolina flour and chana dal, chana dal, a type of dried split chickpea, is a delicious midday snack. A scoop of yogurt added to the batter guarantees that the cake will cook up extra smooth and tender. Topped with cilantro and grated coconut, and drizzled with an oil that's been seasoned with spices and seeds, this savory cake possesses an aromatic and complex freshness. a type of dried split chickpea, is a delicious midday snack. A scoop of yogurt added to the batter guarantees that the cake will cook up extra smooth and tender. Topped with cilantro and grated coconut, and drizzled with an oil that's been seasoned with spices and seeds, this savory cake possesses an aromatic and complex freshness.

For the Dumpling cup chana dal chana dal, soaked in plenty of water for 6 to 8 hours cup plain whole-milk yogurt1/3 cup finely ground semolina flour ( cup finely ground semolina flour (sooji or or rava rava)2 to 3 small dried hot red chiles, such as Kashmiri Kashmiri or or lal mirch, lal mirch, seeded if you want less heat and chopped very fine seeded if you want less heat and chopped very fine teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger1/8 teaspoon ground turmeric teaspoon ground turmeric1 teaspoon salt1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice2 teaspoons grapeseed or other neutral oil1 teaspoon baking sodaFor the Topping2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil teaspoon black or brown mustard seeds teaspoon sesame seeds2 tablespoons coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh cilantro leaves2 tablespoons freshly grated coconut (see Glossary of Ingredients) or frozen grated coconut, thawed (optional)For CookingGrapeseed or other neutral oil to coat the cake panEquipment2-inch-high steamer rack9-inch round cake panPot large enough to hold both the rack and the pan when covered 1. MAKE THE BATTER 1 TO 2 HOURS IN ADVANCE MAKE THE BATTER 1 TO 2 HOURS IN ADVANCE: Place the steamer rack in the pot, add 1 inches of water to the pot, and set aside. Rub a little oil around the inside of the cake pan. Place the steamer rack in the pot, add 1 inches of water to the pot, and set aside. Rub a little oil around the inside of the cake pan.

2. Drain the Drain the chana dal chana dal and place it in a food processor with the yogurt. Process until the mixture is frothy and slightly gritty, about 3 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. and place it in a food processor with the yogurt. Process until the mixture is frothy and slightly gritty, about 3 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go.

3. Scoop the batter into a large bowl and stir in cup water. Mix in the semolina flour, chiles, ginger, turmeric, salt, and lemon juice. Cover with a cloth and let rest at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours, stirring occasionally. The batter will swell slightly and look softer. Scoop the batter into a large bowl and stir in cup water. Mix in the semolina flour, chiles, ginger, turmeric, salt, and lemon juice. Cover with a cloth and let rest at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours, stirring occasionally. The batter will swell slightly and look softer.

4. Combine the 2 teaspoons oil with the baking soda in a small bowl and set aside until the Combine the 2 teaspoons oil with the baking soda in a small bowl and set aside until the khaman dhokla khaman dhokla is ready to be steamed. is ready to be steamed.

5. STEAM THE DUMPLING STEAM THE DUMPLING: Bring the water in the pot to a boil over high heat. Bring the water in the pot to a boil over high heat.

6. Add the oil and baking soda mixture into the batter and stir until combined. Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan and wiggle it gently to level it off. Add the oil and baking soda mixture into the batter and stir until combined. Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan and wiggle it gently to level it off.

7. Carefully place the filled pan on the steamer rack, cover, and steam for 15 minutes. Carefully place the filled pan on the steamer rack, cover, and steam for 15 minutes.

8. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully lift the pan out of the pot and place it on a folded kitchen towel, allowing the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully lift the pan out of the pot and place it on a folded kitchen towel, allowing the khaman dhokla khaman dhokla to cool slightly. Unmold the to cool slightly. Unmold the khaman dhokla khaman dhokla and place it right side up on a large plate. and place it right side up on a large plate.

9. MAKE THE TOPPING MAKE THE TOPPING: Heat the 2 tablespoons oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds and sesame seeds and stir until the sesame seeds are golden brown, about 3 minutes. Spoon the oil mixture evenly over the Heat the 2 tablespoons oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds and sesame seeds and stir until the sesame seeds are golden brown, about 3 minutes. Spoon the oil mixture evenly over the khaman dhokla khaman dhokla and sprinkle with cilantro and coconut. Slice and serve warm. and sprinkle with cilantro and coconut. Slice and serve warm.

Nine-Layer Coconut Tapioca Cake Khanom Chan (Thailand) (Thailand) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES 1 1 DUMPLING DUMPLING).

This dense coconut cake made in nine noodle-thin layers is popular at weddings and other celebrations because the number nine is believed to symbolize luck and progress. The layers serve a practical purpose too. Steaming this dumpling in layers allows it to cook quickly and evenly, a feat that would be nearly impossible if the khanom chan khanom chan were steamed as a solid cake. Sometimes each layer is given its own vibrant color, creating a rainbow effect, but those that glow with only the natural tint of the ingredients are also alluring and beautiful. You can bite into a slice of this firm, jellylike cake and feel your teeth pop satisfyingly through each layer, but it is hard to resist peeling off the layers one by one. were steamed as a solid cake. Sometimes each layer is given its own vibrant color, creating a rainbow effect, but those that glow with only the natural tint of the ingredients are also alluring and beautiful. You can bite into a slice of this firm, jellylike cake and feel your teeth pop satisfyingly through each layer, but it is hard to resist peeling off the layers one by one.

For the Dumpling1 cups tapioca flour (tapioca starch)1/3 cup white rice flour, preferably from Thailand cup white rice flour, preferably from Thailand1 cups fresh coconut milk (Glossary of Ingredients) or 2 cups measured from one 14-ounce can coconut milk mixed with 1 cup water6 ounces hard palm sugar or cup soft palm sugar or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary of Ingredients) cup pandan water (March) or teaspoon pandan extract mixed into cup waterFor CookingGrapeseed or other neutral oil to coat the cake panEquipment2-inch-high steamer rack8-inch round cake panPot large enough to hold both the rack and the pan when covered 1. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Combine the tapioca flour and rice flour in a large heatproof bowl. Combine the tapioca flour and rice flour in a large heatproof bowl.

2. Place the steamer rack in the pot. Keeping the cake pan level is key for such a thin batter, so take the time now to check for any tilts or leanings with your rack or pot and try to even things out as best you can. Add 1 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, rub a little oil around the inside of the cake pan. Place the steamer rack in the pot. Keeping the cake pan level is key for such a thin batter, so take the time now to check for any tilts or leanings with your rack or pot and try to even things out as best you can. Add 1 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, rub a little oil around the inside of the cake pan.

3. Pour the coconut milk into a small saucepan, add the palm sugar, and heat over medium-low heat. Stir until all the sugar has dissolved. The mixture should be hot to the touch but not close to simmering. Immediately pour the coconut milk into the flour mixture and whisk until smooth. This is a very thin batter that cooks up into a firm jellylike texture. Pour the coconut milk into a small saucepan, add the palm sugar, and heat over medium-low heat. Stir until all the sugar has dissolved. The mixture should be hot to the touch but not close to simmering. Immediately pour the coconut milk into the flour mixture and whisk until smooth. This is a very thin batter that cooks up into a firm jellylike texture.

4. DIVIDE THE BATTER DIVIDE THE BATTER: Measure out 1 Measure out 11/3 cups of the batter and set aside. Stir the pandan water into the batter remaining in the bowl, giving it a light green color. cups of the batter and set aside. Stir the pandan water into the batter remaining in the bowl, giving it a light green color.

5. STEAM THE DUMPLING STEAM THE DUMPLING: Measure out Measure out 1 1/3 cup of the green pandan batter and pour it into the prepared cake pan. Tilt the pan until the batter spreads out to coat the bottom of the pan evenly. cup of the green pandan batter and pour it into the prepared cake pan. Tilt the pan until the batter spreads out to coat the bottom of the pan evenly.

6. Carefully place the pan on the steamer rack, making sure that it is level. Cover and steam over high heat for 3 minutes. Carefully place the pan on the steamer rack, making sure that it is level. Cover and steam over high heat for 3 minutes.

7. Uncover and slowly pour in Uncover and slowly pour in 1 1/3 cup of the white batter mixture evenly over the steamed layer, cover, and steam for 3 minutes longer. Continue adding and steaming alternating layers of batter every 3 minutes, ending with a ninth and final layer of the green pandan batter. cup of the white batter mixture evenly over the steamed layer, cover, and steam for 3 minutes longer. Continue adding and steaming alternating layers of batter every 3 minutes, ending with a ninth and final layer of the green pandan batter.

8. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the cake pan from the pot. Place it on a folded kitchen towel and allow the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the cake pan from the pot. Place it on a folded kitchen towel and allow the khanom chan khanom chan to cool to room temperature. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate, slice, and serve. to cool to room temperature. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate, slice, and serve. Khanom chan Khanom chan can be kept tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Allow it to come back to room temperature before serving. can be kept tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Allow it to come back to room temperature before serving.

Salty-Sweet Bean Puddings with Coconut Cream Topping Khanom Thuay (Thailand) (Thailand) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES 16 16 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

These striking coconut dumplings are a popular street snack in Thailand. Like the Khanom Chan Khanom Chan (preceding recipe), these dumplings are made from a batter flavored with palm sugar, pandan leaves, and coconut milk. They're steamed in small bowls, topped with a rich coconut cream, and steamed again. Just enough salt is added to the creamy topping to make them extra tasty and totally satisfying. Traditionally they are eaten at room temperature, but we can't keep from eating one or two the moment they are plucked from the steamer. (preceding recipe), these dumplings are made from a batter flavored with palm sugar, pandan leaves, and coconut milk. They're steamed in small bowls, topped with a rich coconut cream, and steamed again. Just enough salt is added to the creamy topping to make them extra tasty and totally satisfying. Traditionally they are eaten at room temperature, but we can't keep from eating one or two the moment they are plucked from the steamer.

For the Dumplings3 tablespoons mung bean starch1 tablespoon white rice flour, preferably from Thailand cup fresh coconut milk (see Glossary of Ingredients) or 1 1/3 cup canned coconut milk mixed with 3 tablespoons water cup canned coconut milk mixed with 3 tablespoons water2 tablespoons pandan water or 1 1/8 teaspoon pandan extract mixed into cup water teaspoon pandan extract mixed into cup water2 ounces hard palm sugar or cup soft palm sugar or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary of Ingredients)For the Coconut Cream Topping cup white rice flour, preferably from Thailand teaspoon sugar1/8 teaspoon salt teaspoon salt1/3 cup fresh coconut cream (see Glossary of Ingredients) mixed with cup fresh coconut cream (see Glossary of Ingredients) mixed with 2 2/3 cup fresh coconut milk or 1 cup canned coconut milk cup fresh coconut milk or 1 cup canned coconut milkEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer potFour to sixteen 2-inch-wide dipping bowls (see Glossary of Equipment) 1. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Combine the mung bean starch and the 2 tablespoons rice flour in a medium heatproof bowl. Combine the mung bean starch and the 2 tablespoons rice flour in a medium heatproof bowl.

2. Mix together the cup coconut milk, the pandan water, and palm sugar in a small saucepan. Heat over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture is hot to the touch but not close to simmering, about 2 minutes. Pour into the mung bean starch mixture and whisk until smooth. This is a very thin batter that cooks up into a puddinglike texture. Mix together the cup coconut milk, the pandan water, and palm sugar in a small saucepan. Heat over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture is hot to the touch but not close to simmering, about 2 minutes. Pour into the mung bean starch mixture and whisk until smooth. This is a very thin batter that cooks up into a puddinglike texture.

3. MAKE THE COCONUT CREAM TOPPING MAKE THE COCONUT CREAM TOPPING: Combine the cup rice flour, sugar, and salt in a medium heatproof bowl. Combine the cup rice flour, sugar, and salt in a medium heatproof bowl.

4. Mix together the coconut cream mixture in a small saucepan. Heat over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until it is hot to the touch but not close to simmering, about 2 minutes. Pour into the rice flour mixture and whisk until smooth. Mix together the coconut cream mixture in a small saucepan. Heat over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until it is hot to the touch but not close to simmering, about 2 minutes. Pour into the rice flour mixture and whisk until smooth.

5. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Arrange as many small dipping bowls as you can in the basket. Give the mung bean batter a good stir before spooning a tablespoon of it into each bowl. Carefully place the basket in the pot, cover, and cook for 10 minutes. The batter will thicken into a puddinglike consistency. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Arrange as many small dipping bowls as you can in the basket. Give the mung bean batter a good stir before spooning a tablespoon of it into each bowl. Carefully place the basket in the pot, cover, and cook for 10 minutes. The batter will thicken into a puddinglike consistency.

6. Once the first layer has cooked, stir the coconut cream mixture and spoon a tablespoon into each filled bowl, covering the mung bean layer. Cover and steam for 15 minutes longer. The coconut topping is not supposed to be firm, though it will set slightly as it cools. Once the first layer has cooked, stir the coconut cream mixture and spoon a tablespoon into each filled bowl, covering the mung bean layer. Cover and steam for 15 minutes longer. The coconut topping is not supposed to be firm, though it will set slightly as it cools.

7. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Carefully remove the bowls and allow the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Carefully remove the bowls and allow the khanom thuay khanom thuay to cool slightly. Slip them out of their bowls with a b.u.t.ter knife and arrange them, top side up, on a plate. Repeat the steaming steps with the remaining batter. Serve at room temperature. to cool slightly. Slip them out of their bowls with a b.u.t.ter knife and arrange them, top side up, on a plate. Repeat the steaming steps with the remaining batter. Serve at room temperature. Khanom thuay Khanom thuay can be kept tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Allow them to come back to room temperature before serving. can be kept tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Allow them to come back to room temperature before serving.

Matzo b.a.l.l.s in a Beef Broth Fleischsuppe mit Matzoknepfle (France) (France) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES ABOUT 12 12 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

There is a beef matzo ball soup from the Alsace region of France that stands as a good contrast to the more familiar chicken-based Central European and American versions. These dumplings start with whole matzo crackers that are broken into pieces and soaked. Precooking the dough in a pan with some onions gives these matzo b.a.l.l.s an aromatic sweetness and a more toasted flavor.

For the Soup3 pounds small beef marrow bones3 pounds beef stew meat, such as shank or rump6 to 8 fresh thyme sprigs2 bay leaves5 whole cloves1 teaspoon black peppercorns1 small yellow onion, quartered (unpeeled)1 large whole leek, split in half, rinsed clean, and chopped coa.r.s.e1 large carrot, cut into 1-inch rounds1 celery rib with leaves, cut in half1 medium turnip, peeled, cut in half, and sliced thick1 tomato, quartered small green cabbage, cored, quartered, and sliced into 1-inch ribbons2 teaspoons saltFor the DumplingsTwo 6-inch square matzo crackers, broken into small pieces and soaked in plenty of cold water for 30 to 60 minutes1 tablespoon rendered duck fat or neutral oil, such as grapeseed small yellow onion, chopped fine teaspoon salt teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg2 large eggs, beaten cup matzo meal2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leavesEquipmentColander lined with 6 to 8 layers of cheesecloth 1. MAKE THE SOUP MAKE THE SOUP 2 2 TO TO 3 3 HOURS IN ADVANCE HOURS IN ADVANCE: Place the beef bones, beef stew meat, thyme, bay leaves, cloves, and peppercorns in a large pot. Pour in 3 quarts water and bring to a boil over high heat. Skim the froth off the surface with a spoon. Add the quartered onion, the leek, carrot, celery, turnip, tomato, cabbage, and 2 teaspoons salt. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 2 to 3 hours. (You can also make the soup in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days.) Place the beef bones, beef stew meat, thyme, bay leaves, cloves, and peppercorns in a large pot. Pour in 3 quarts water and bring to a boil over high heat. Skim the froth off the surface with a spoon. Add the quartered onion, the leek, carrot, celery, turnip, tomato, cabbage, and 2 teaspoons salt. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 2 to 3 hours. (You can also make the soup in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days.) 2. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: While the soup is simmering, drain the matzo crackers in a colander or sieve and gently press out excess water. The matzo will be mushy, so be careful not to push it through the holes of the colander or sieve while pressing out the water. Place the drained matzo crackers in a small bowl and set aside. While the soup is simmering, drain the matzo crackers in a colander or sieve and gently press out excess water. The matzo will be mushy, so be careful not to push it through the holes of the colander or sieve while pressing out the water. Place the drained matzo crackers in a small bowl and set aside.

3. Melt the duck fat in a small pot over low heat. Add the chopped onion, teaspoon salt, the ground ginger, and nutmeg and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is very soft but not brown, about 8 minutes. Add a little water if the onion starts to darken around the edges. Add the matzo mush and stir vigorously until the mixture begins to turn into a doughy ball and the pasty coating on the bottom and sides of the pan begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, scoop into a medium bowl, break it up a bit, and allow it to cool slightly. Melt the duck fat in a small pot over low heat. Add the chopped onion, teaspoon salt, the ground ginger, and nutmeg and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is very soft but not brown, about 8 minutes. Add a little water if the onion starts to darken around the edges. Add the matzo mush and stir vigorously until the mixture begins to turn into a doughy ball and the pasty coating on the bottom and sides of the pan begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, scoop into a medium bowl, break it up a bit, and allow it to cool slightly.

4. While the dough is still warm, mix in the eggs. Mix in the matzo meal and the parsley. Cover and refrigerate for 2 to 8 hours. For especially tender dumplings, let the dough chill for the full 8 hours. While the dough is still warm, mix in the eggs. Mix in the matzo meal and the parsley. Cover and refrigerate for 2 to 8 hours. For especially tender dumplings, let the dough chill for the full 8 hours.

5. MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the meat from the broth using a slotted spoon, place in a bowl, and cover to keep warm. Do the same with the carrots. Remove the marrow bones and discard. Strain the broth into a medium pot through the cheesecloth-lined colander. Discard the rest of the vegetables. Bring the broth to a steady simmer over medium heat. Remove the meat from the broth using a slotted spoon, place in a bowl, and cover to keep warm. Do the same with the carrots. Remove the marrow bones and discard. Strain the broth into a medium pot through the cheesecloth-lined colander. Discard the rest of the vegetables. Bring the broth to a steady simmer over medium heat.

6. Refresh the chilled dough by giving it a quick stir. Scoop up a rounded tablespoon of dough. Use another spoon or your finger to move the dough gently off the spoon and into the broth. Drop in spoonfuls of the remaining dough, leaving as much s.p.a.ce as you can around each. These dumplings will sink at first but will float to the surface as they cook. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 10 minutes. Turn the dumplings over, cover, and cook for 5 minutes longer. Once the dumplings have cooked, gently stir in the cooked meat and carrots, cook for 1 minute longer, and serve. Refresh the chilled dough by giving it a quick stir. Scoop up a rounded tablespoon of dough. Use another spoon or your finger to move the dough gently off the spoon and into the broth. Drop in spoonfuls of the remaining dough, leaving as much s.p.a.ce as you can around each. These dumplings will sink at first but will float to the surface as they cook. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 10 minutes. Turn the dumplings over, cover, and cook for 5 minutes longer. Once the dumplings have cooked, gently stir in the cooked meat and carrots, cook for 1 minute longer, and serve.

Chive-Stuffed Dumplings with Tomato Sauce and Minted Yogurt Ashak (Afghanistan) (Afghanistan) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES ABOUT 48 48 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Ashak are traditionally filled with an aromatic, gra.s.sy green called are traditionally filled with an aromatic, gra.s.sy green called gandana, gandana, also known as garlic chive or Chinese chive (not to be replaced by onion chives). If garlic chives aren't available, you can subst.i.tute equal parts chopped parsley and scallion mixed with a spoonful of chopped garlic. Leeks or ramps are also common subst.i.tutes. Whatever greens you use, hand-wilting them instead of blanching will keep their flavor fresh and intense. Topped with a thick and meaty tomato sauce and garlic-infused yogurt, the dumplings themselves are surprisingly light and refres.h.i.+ng and make this dish suitable for any meal. also known as garlic chive or Chinese chive (not to be replaced by onion chives). If garlic chives aren't available, you can subst.i.tute equal parts chopped parsley and scallion mixed with a spoonful of chopped garlic. Leeks or ramps are also common subst.i.tutes. Whatever greens you use, hand-wilting them instead of blanching will keep their flavor fresh and intense. Topped with a thick and meaty tomato sauce and garlic-infused yogurt, the dumplings themselves are surprisingly light and refres.h.i.+ng and make this dish suitable for any meal.

These dumplings are made using the Half-Moon Fold.

For the Yogurt Sauce*4 cups plain whole-milk yogurt, drained (see Glossary of Ingredients) for 12 hours (about 2 cups)2 garlic cloves, chopped very fineFor the Filling2 cups finely chopped and hand-wilted (see Tips) garlic chives (gandana), or 1 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus 1 cup finely chopped scallion mixed with 1 tablespoon very finely chopped garlic teaspoon salt1 teaspoon ground turmeric teaspoon ground c.u.min teaspoon ground cinnamon2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepperFor the Dough1 recipe Shao Mai Shao Mai (Bottlenecked Pork and Shrimp Dumplings) dough, preferably made no more than 1 hour in advance (Bottlenecked Pork and Shrimp Dumplings) dough, preferably made no more than 1 hour in advanceUnbleached all-purpose flour for dustingFor the Tomato Sauce* cup grapeseed or other neutral oil1 small yellow onion, chopped fine pound lean ground beef6 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded (see Glossary of Ingredients), and crushed, or 6 canned plum tomatoes, drained and crushed (about 1 cups)1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger1 garlic clove, chopped fine teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup finely shredded fresh mintEquipment2-inch round cookie cutterLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE YOGURT SAUCE 2 TO 8 HOURS IN ADVANCE MAKE THE YOGURT SAUCE 2 TO 8 HOURS IN ADVANCE: Combine the yogurt and the 2 cloves of chopped garlic in a medium bowl and mix well. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Combine the yogurt and the 2 cloves of chopped garlic in a medium bowl and mix well. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

2. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Combine all the filling ingredients in a medium bowl. Combine all the filling ingredients in a medium bowl.

3. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the ashak, ashak, review the Half-Moon Fold. review the Half-Moon Fold.

4. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and filling.

5. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds.