Guide to Yosemite Part 6

The main trail, which turns to the left, should be followed. It continues the climb towards the northeast. About half a mile westward are the two ~Quarter Domes~ (Alt. 8160 and 8276). At an alt.i.tude of 8200 we pa.s.s a spring. Above this the trail rises sharply by zigzags to the base of the ~Pinnacles~ (Alt. 9451). A climb of a few hundred feet along their east flank takes us near the summit of ~Clouds Rest~ (Alt. 9924). A short branch trail up the steep and rocky slope leads to the crest, from which is a vast view in all directions. This is the highest of the Yosemite Valley summits.

We descend again to the trail, which turns northeast and follows along the canyon rim, keeping generally just east of the crest. In two miles the cut-off trail from Little Yosemite joins from the right. After gradually bearing to the left, now on the Tenaya Canyon slope, we pa.s.s a small lake at the right of the trail. The lake contains no fish, but upstream one mile is ~Mildred Lake~ (Alt. 9600), in which are some very large trout.

Traversing ~Forsyth Pa.s.s~, the picturesque trail now descends 1000 feet in the next two and a half miles over rough granite to the rocky meadows just below ~Lake Tenaya~ (Alt. 8141). This large, deep glacial lake is beautifully surrounded by granite crags and domes. Its Indian name, Py-we-ack, meant "lake of the glistening rocks," referring to the glacier-polished granite at its upper end. The lake and the peak to the east were renamed "Tenaya" when the last remnant of Chief Tenaya's Yosemite Tribe was captured here by the Mariposa Battalion on June 5, 1851. There is here good camping, and pasturage seems abundant, but horses do not like it and should therefore be hobbled to prevent straying. The lake was stocked with Loch Leven trout in 1911 and with rainbow, eastern brook, black spotted and steelhead in 1917, 1918 and 1919, but fis.h.i.+ng is only fair. Crossing the meadows at the outlet our trail joins the ~Tioga Road~, which follows the western margin of the lake to the ~Tenaya Lake Lodge~, about one and a half miles distant, where good accommodations will be found. The road continues up the canyon to ~Tuolumne Meadows~ seven and a half miles distant, and to Mono Lake.

From Tenaya Lake to Mirror Lake are two trails, which unite after about two and a half miles. The first of these starts from the road just beyond the sharp bend about one and a quarter miles from the lake and bears southwest thru the forest. The other, which is far more scenic, crosses the meadow and park-like forest below the lake, pa.s.sing a beautiful little unnamed lake where good camp sites and horse-feed will be found, but no fis.h.i.+ng. Beyond this is a gradual 300-foot ascent along an open ridge. Below is the deep chasm of the inaccessible and little known ~Tenaya Canyon~. The unbroken granite abutments of ~Clouds Rest~ sweep down almost 4000 feet. After each snowstorm these cliffs shed avalanche after avalanche. At about two and a half miles from Tenaya Lake the less scenic trail from the Tioga Road joins from the right. Descending southwest thru timber the trail pa.s.ses ~Hidden Lake~ (Alt. 8400--picturesque but no fis.h.i.+ng) which is to the left of the trail but invisible without making a detour. About two miles further is ~Tenmile Meadow~ (Alt. 8400) on a small tributary of ~Tenaya Creek~. This is a good place to noon. There is here fine horse-feed, also good camp sites, but no fis.h.i.+ng.

An abrupt climb of 650 feet now takes us over a spur ridge and to the source of the east branch of ~Snow Creek~. There is here a small meadow at the left of the trail, where good horse-feed and camp sites will be found. A 1500-foot descent by zigzags thru scattered timber takes us down a side canyon to ~Snow Creek~, across which is a foot-log. About 300 yards beyond the crossing, the ~North Dome Trail~ (Trail Trip 4) turns northwest and follows up the west branch of Snow Creek. We turn left, pa.s.sing thru a beautiful forest of Jeffrey pine, lodgepole pine and fir. Fis.h.i.+ng is fair, but the trout are small.

About one mile below the crossing we suddenly emerge at the rim of the canyon between ~Mt. Watkins~ (Alt. 8235) at the left and ~Basket Dome~ (Alt. 7602) at the right. The following abrupt descent of 2500 feet by 108 switchbacks takes us to the bottom of ~Tenaya Canyon~. Turning downstream our trail enters a dense forest of oaks, laurel, pine and cedar. One mile of almost level path takes us to ~Mirror Lake~, where we skirt the west sh.o.r.e to the end of the road. Yosemite is three miles distant by road.

TRAIL TRIP 6

YOSEMITE TO TENAYA LAKE _via_ MIRROR LAKE AND RETURN _via_ FORSYTH Pa.s.s AND CLOUDS REST

Reverse of Trail Trip 5

(32.25 miles--2-day trip)

~Tenaya Lake~ is one of the gems of the High Sierra. The very scenic two-day round trip from Yosemite is too long and strenuous to be attempted in one day. Excellent accommodations will be found at Tenaya Lake Lodge, but reservations should be made in advance by telephone.

If the trip is to be taken in the following direction one should start early to avoid the intense heat of the zigzags above Mirror Lake.

Water should be carried.

The trail starts at ~Mirror Lake~, three miles from Yosemite. One should plan to see sunrise there (about 8 a.m. in summer). Skirting the west sh.o.r.e the trail follows up the canyon about one mile, thru a dense forest of oak, laurel, yellow pine, Douglas fir and incense cedar. Then begins a long, hard climb of 2500 feet up 108 switchbacks (one and a half miles--two hours).

Above the rim of the canyon the trail follows the west bank of ~Snow Creek~. Fis.h.i.+ng is fair but the trout small. Further down stream are picturesque cascades. After pa.s.sing thru a forest of Jeffrey pine, lodgepole pine and fir for about one mile the trail to North Dome and Tioga Road (Trail Trip 4) branches to the left. Our trail turns right and crosses ~Snow Creek~ (foot-log) about 300 yards beyond. We then climb 1500 feet by zigzags up an east branch of Snow Creek thru scattered timber. At the headwaters of this creek is a small meadow at the right of the trail, a good campsite with forage fairly abundant.

Rising over a spur ridge, the trail drops abruptly about 650 feet to ~Tenmile Meadow~ (Alt. 8400) on a small tributary of ~Tenaya Creek~.

This is a good place to noon. It is a fine camp and horse-feed is abundant, but there is no fis.h.i.+ng. Climbing to the northeast thru timber the trail pa.s.ses ~Hidden Lake~ (Alt. 8400--picturesque, but no fis.h.i.+ng), which is a short distance to the right of the trail but not visible from it. About two and a half miles beyond Tenmile Meadow the trail forks. The left branch leads to the ~Tioga Road~, about one mile distant, which may then be followed to Lake Tenaya. The trail to the right is far more scenic. It follows an open granite ridge revealing the wonderfully glaciated canyon below and ~Clouds Rest~ opposite.

Down the canyon are Half Dome and the head of Yosemite Valley.

Descending about 300 feet the trail pa.s.ses a beautiful little unnamed lake, where are good camp sites and abundant pasturage, but no fis.h.i.+ng. From here the trail traverses almost level meadows and a scattered forest of lodgepole pine one mile to ~Lake Tenaya~ (Alt.

8141). This large, deep glacial lake is beautifully surrounded by granite crags and domes and is a splendid place for a permanent camp.

Its Indian name was Py-we-ack, or "lake of the glistening rocks,"

because of the glacier-polished granite pavements near the north end.

On June 5, 1851, when the last remnant of old Chief Tenaya's Yosemite Tribe was captured here by the Mariposa Battalion, the lake and the dominant pyramidal peak at the east were renamed "Tenaya." Forage is abundant in the vicinity but it is not liked by horses, so stock should be hobbled. The lake was stocked with Loch Leven trout in 1911 and with rainbow, eastern brook, black spotted and steelhead in 1917, 1918 and 1919, but fis.h.i.+ng is only fair. The ~Tioga Road~ follows around the western margin of the lake to ~Tenaya Lake Lodge~, about one and a half miles distant, where good accommodations will be found.

The road continues up the canyon to ~Tuolumne Meadows~, seven and a half miles distant, and to ~Mono Lake~.

Our return trail starts just below the lake. Crossing the meadow it mounts the east slope steadily climbing 1000 feet up the rough granite to ~Forsyth Pa.s.s~, two and a half miles distant. Fine views are obtained all along the trail. Near the summit a small shallow lake can be seen east of the trail. By leaving the trail and following up the small stream about one mile, ~Mildred Lake~ (Alt. 9600) can be reached. This little lake contains some very large trout. From Forsyth Pa.s.s the trail follows southwest along the rim of Tenaya Canyon about two miles and then forks. The trail to the left descends thru timber about three miles and joins the ~Sunrise Trail~, making the shortest route to Yosemite. The trail to the right leads to Clouds Rest and is far more scenic than the cut-off. It follows just east of the canyon rim for about two miles and joins the ~Clouds Rest Trail~. A short, steep ascent by foot over rough granite takes us to ~Clouds Rest~ (Alt. 9925), the highest point near Yosemite. From here is a vast panorama to all sides. Returning to the trail we descend thru stunted forest and rough granite. To the right are ~The Pinnacles~ (Alt.

9451). The trail descends about 1000 feet by switchbacks to a spring.

~Quarter Domes~ (Alt. 8160 and 8276) are half a mile west on the canyon rim. The trail descends thru denser and denser forest. A short distance below, the ~Sunrise Trail~ joins from the east. After trending westward along a bench the trail is joined from the northwest by the ~Half Dome Trail~. Descending thru the pine forest, we now and then are treated to glimpses of ~Mt. Starr King~ across Little Yosemite. About one-third of a mile takes us to another junction where a branch trail turns left descending 400 feet into Little Yosemite.

The main trail pa.s.ses to the right of a granite k.n.o.b and reaches the floor of ~Little Yosemite Valley~ near the lower end, where it is joined by a trail from up the canyon. Turning right we pa.s.s ~Liberty Cap~ and after a 200-foot descent join the main Glacier Point Trail at the top of ~Nevada Falls~. There is here a government telephone (Central 1 ring). We turn right. Yosemite is six miles distant via Trail Trip 2.

TRAIL TRIP 7

YOSEMITE TO LAKE MERCED

(16.5 miles--6 hours)

The round trip from Yosemite to ~Merced Lake~ is an exceedingly scenic two-day excursion. One should telephone in advance for accommodations at the Merced Lake Lodge. Pedestrians may save an hour's hard climb by taking the Mist Trail to the top of Vernal Falls. An excellent three-day trip may be made by combining Trail Trips 7 and 6. First day: Lake Merced. Second day: Clouds Rest and Lake Tenaya via Forsyth Pa.s.s. Third day: Yosemite via the summit of North Dome and Yosemite Falls Trail.

From Yosemite we take the road on the south side of the valley past Camp Curry to ~Happy Isles Bridge~. Here we turn right on the main Glacier Point Trail and follow Trail Trip 1 to the junction at the top of the ~Nevada Falls~ switchbacks. The ~Glacier Point Trail~ (Trail Trip 1) turns right and crosses a small bridge. We take the left-hand trail, which rises about 200 feet and follows up the ~Merced River~.

About half a mile beyond, the ~Little Yosemite Trail~ (Trail Trip 13) continues up the canyon. The main trail turns to the left and zigzags upward thru a dense stand of pine, fir and cedar. A climb of about 800 feet in one and a half miles takes us to the junction with the ~Half Dome Trail~ (Trail Trip 14), which branches left. Our trail turns eastward along a gently sloping bench. After a quarter of a mile the ~Clouds Rest Trail~ (Trail Trip 5) continues to climb to the left. The ~Merced Lake Trail~ turns right, fording a small creek and thence following up the west bank of ~Sunrise Creek~, crossing about a mile above to the east bank. About half a mile above the crossing is ~Hopkins Meadow~, where the ~Sunrise Trail to Tuolumne Meadows~ (Trail Trip 8) branches to the left.

We turn right, pa.s.sing thru almost level open granite country for the next two miles where we obtain grand views of ~Little Yosemite~, of the deep canyon of the ~Merced~, and of ~Mt. Clark~ and ~Mt. Starr King~ toward the south. Descending some short, steep switchbacks the trail again becomes almost level and pa.s.ses the picturesque little ~Duck Lake~ at the right of the trail. Rising a few feet we now descend abruptly into ~Echo Creek Canyon~, crossing ~Echo Creek~ about a quarter of a mile from the Merced River. Here at ~Echo Valley~ are good camp sites, excellent feed and fine fis.h.i.+ng. Echo Creek was stocked in 1905 with eastern brook trout. Steelhead and German brown trout will also be found in the river. The old "Merced Lake Trail,"

which is shown on the U.S.G.S. map as ascending Echo Creek is in very poor condition and is no longer used. From Echo Valley the trail climbs about 100 feet over a granite spur, in the ascent pa.s.sing thru a beautiful forest of western yellow pine. Following for one mile along the glaciated granite slope, the trail parallels the river, which here descends in a series of rapids, cascades and low falls.

We arrive finally at ~Lake Merced~ (Alt. 7300). This is one of the most accessible and well known of the lakes in Yosemite's High Sierra.

At its sh.o.r.es and along the entire seven-mile canyon above are ideal camping places. Horse-feed is abundant above the lake. Fis.h.i.+ng is excellent in both lake and river. The lake contains Loch Leven, German brown and rainbow trout. Rowboats may be hired at fifty cents per hour or $2.50 per day. Merced Lake is undoubtedly the best base camp for trips thruout the entire upper watershed of the Merced River.

The trail skirts the north edge of the lake, pa.s.sing into a beautiful forest of sugar pine and western yellow pine at the upper end. Just above the lake is ~Merced Lake Lodge~, with excellent accommodations.

One may here rent a fis.h.i.+ng outfit and some supplies may be obtained.

~Washburn Lake~ is three miles further up the canyon.

TRAIL TRIP 8

YOSEMITE TO TUOLUMNE MEADOWS _via_ SUNRISE TRAIL

(28 miles--12 hours)

The ~Sunrise Trail~ has long been famous as one of the most scenic routes between Yosemite and Tuolumne Meadows. The walk is almost too long to be enjoyed in one day and is better taken in two.

From Yosemite Village we follow the road south of the river, past Camp Curry to Happy Isles Bridge. There we turn left on the ~Glacier Point Trail~ and follow Trail Trip 1 to the junction at the top of ~Nevada Falls~. Again turning left we skirt the south base of ~Liberty Cap~ and climb 200 feet to the ~Little Yosemite Valley~. After following along the margin of the placid Merced we veer abruptly to the left at the first trail junction. Straight ahead is ~Little Yosemite~ (Trail Trip 13). Our route mounts the timbered slope to the northward and we now and then catch glimpses of the round dome of ~Mt. Starr King~ across Little Yosemite. A climb of 800 feet takes us to the junction where the ~Half Dome Trail~ (Trail Trip 14) turns northwest. We take the right-hand trail, which trends eastward along a gently sloping bench. The ~Clouds Rest Trail~ (Trail Trip 5) now branches northward directly up the slope.

Our trail bears eastward and shortly crosses a small branch of Sunrise Creek. The trail now follows up the north bank of ~Sunrise Creek~, crossing about a mile above to the south side. One-half mile further is ~Hopkins Meadow~ and a junction where the ~Merced Lake Trail~ (Trail Trip 7) turns right. Horse-feed is here moderately abundant and camp sites fair. The ~Sunrise Trail~ continues up the canyon and is shortly joined by the ~Forsyth Pa.s.s Trail~ from the north (Trail Trip 5). Reaching the head of Sunrise Creek and ascending the east flank of ~Sunrise Mountain~ by long sandy zigzags, the trail emerges at several vantage points from which ~Mt. Clark~ is most advantageously seen to the south. The trail now leads almost level through lodgepole pine and fir forests, emerging suddenly at the foot of ~Long Meadow~. To the north is the sharp spire of ~Columbia Finger~ (Alt. 10,700) and ~Tenaya Peak~ (Alt. 10,300) at the left. Horse-feed is abundant here late in the season but the meadow is generally cold. There is no fis.h.i.+ng in the creek. Just beyond the 400-foot ridge to the west is ~Mildred Lake~, in which are some very large trout.

After following up Long Meadow, the trail rounds the eastern base of Columbia Finger, pa.s.sing over glaciated granite and thru stunted forests. The serrate crest of ~Echo Peak~ (Alt. 11,100) towers imposingly at the right across the canyon. A rise of a few feet takes us over ~Cathedral Pa.s.s~ (Alt. 9850). Just beyond is a beautiful unnamed lake above which the spires of ~Cathedral Peak~ rise impressively at the north. Skirting the east sh.o.r.e of this little lake at about timber line, the trail bears northward across a sandy plateau where white bark pine grows abundantly. To the west, down the canyon, can be seen the upper end of ~Cathedral Lake~ (Alt. 9250) about one mile distant. Here camping and fis.h.i.+ng are good. The lake was stocked long ago and re-stocked in 1915 by fish from Tuolumne Meadows.

Continuing around the west flank of Cathedral Peak the trail gradually bears northeast, descending into denser forests of lodgepole pine, fir and hemlock. To the left can be seen the summit of ~Fairview Dome~ (Alt. 9250) about one mile distant. A gradual descent through the dense forest, which is especially noted for its many beautiful mountain hemlocks, takes us finally to the south edge of ~Tuolumne Meadows~, where the trail joins the Tioga Road. The ranger camp and Sierra Club Lodge are about one mile east.

TRAIL TRIP 9

YOSEMITE TO EAGLE PEAK, EL CAPITAN AND GENTRY

(14 miles. Eagle Peak and return, 13 miles--8 hours)

The round trip to the summit of Eagle Peak via Yosemite Falls Trail is one of the most attractive of one-day Yosemite excursions. From the valley to the crest of El Capitan via the Yosemite Falls Trail, returning via Gentry and the Big Oak Flat Road, is too long and hard a trip to be attempted in one day except by the most hardened walkers.

The trail to Eagle Peak is excellent, but from that point to the summit of El Capitan it is in poor condition. From this point along the north rim to Gentry the route is so overgrown by brush as to be almost impa.s.sable.

From ~Yosemite~ we follow Trail Trip 3 as far as the trail junction above the zigzags west of the ~Upper Yosemite Fall~. Here we continue straight ahead, paralleling ~Yosemite Creek~, to another junction a quarter of a mile above. The trail to the north leads to ~Ten Lakes~ and ~Hetch Hetchy~ (Trail Trips 10 and 11). We turn to the left, climbing westward near the north bank of ~Eagle Creek~ over an old terminal moraine. One mile from the junction is ~Eagle Peak Meadow~ (Alt. 7200), where are good camp sites and forage. Ascending the creek to its source, the trail continues south along the ridge, climbing abruptly the last half mile to ~Eagle Peak~ (Alt. 7333), one of Yosemite's finest lookout points. To the east the 3800-foot precipice gives a vast impression of depth.

About one-third mile from the summit the little-used ~El Capitan Trail~ branches to the west. Descending by sharp switchbacks to the head of a small draw, the trail follows the rim westward thru a brushy forest, undulating over the flat divides between several brooklets.

Swinging southward our trail emerges on an open transverse ridge, which it follows a short distance to the summit of ~El Capitan~ (Alt.

7564), from which is a commanding outlook both up and down the valley.

It is possible to carefully descend towards the southeast to the rim, where a slightly extending ledge allows one to peer over the sheer wall of the 3000-foot cliff.

The old ~El Capitan Trail to Gentry~ branches to the west about one-third of a mile north from the summit and continues thru very brushy country along the north rim to ~Ribbon Creek~, about one mile distant. From this point if one is a good woodsman and brush-fighter, the old blazes may be followed thru a three-mile tangle to the ~Gentry Checking Station~ on the ~Big Oak Flat Road~. Yosemite is then 8.1 miles distant by road.