Guide to Yosemite Part 7

TRAIL TRIP 10

YOSEMITE TO TEN LAKES _via_ YOSEMITE CREEK

(One way 17 miles--7 hours)

The recently constructed ~Ten Lakes Trail~ makes the exceptionally beautiful ~Ten Lakes Basin~ and ~Grant Lakes~ easily accessible from Yosemite. The round trip is too long to be attempted in one day. The lakes offer most attractive sites for a permanent camp, and several of them are well stocked with trout.

We follow the ~Yosemite Falls Trail~ (Trail Trip 3) from its beginning just west of ~Yosemite Lodge~ to the trail junction at the top of the upper zigzags. Here the ~Yosemite Point and North Dome Trail~ turns right and crosses a small creek. Those who have not visited the top of the upper fall should by all means turn aside, for it is but a short distance--less than five minutes' walk. Our main trail continues straight ahead paralleling without crossing ~Yosemite Creek~ thru a beautiful mixed forest where the tree-lover will find a few specimens of western white pine. At about one-quarter mile (4.0 miles from Yosemite) the ~Eagle Peak Trail~ (Trail Trip 9) branches to the left.

We follow up the west margin of the creek, generally thru dense forests, but emerging at times to clatter over polished and striated granite pavements where monster mountain junipers grotesquely spread their gnarled branches. Great "potholes" have been formed by the stream where it rushes over the smoothly planed bedrock. At a point 3.7 miles above the Eagle Peak Trail junction the main trail continues to the left up the west fork (Trail Trip 11). Our trail, which turns right and keeps on up the main fork canyon, is considerably less traveled. In the next 2.3 miles we pa.s.s over rough granite up the west bank of the main stream to the ~Yosemite Creek Ranger Station~ on the ~Tioga Road~. There is here a government telephone. Good camp sites will be found at the crossing a quarter of a mile east of the cabin and fair feed upstream. Fis.h.i.+ng is fair to poor. There are better camps, feed and fis.h.i.+ng about three miles upstream.

At the Tioga Road the trail is indistinct. We cross the bridge and follow up the east bank of Yosemite Creek on the main road until the blazes are sighted. The first third of a mile is easily traversed, but the following one and a quarter miles are rough. About three miles above the bridge is a meadow with abundant pasturage. This is a good campsite and fis.h.i.+ng is fair upstream. In the next three miles the trail gradually ascends to an elevation of 9200 feet, leaving Yosemite Creek and pa.s.sing over the flat divide into the Tuolumne River drainage. At the summit one can leave the trail and walk southeast 1.5 miles to ~Grant Lakes~ (Alt. 9500). These are two beautiful mountain lakes, the upper one being in a rugged cirque with sheer walls rising above at the east. Both were stocked in 1917 with rainbow and eastern brook trout.

The Ten Lakes Trail continues north over the tableland and descends 600 feet by switchbacks into the ~Ten Lakes Basin~ (Alt. about 9400), seven miles from the Tioga Road. Here are many ideal camp sites and good forage except early in the season. The lakes were stocked with eastern brook trout in 1908, 1913, 1915 and 1918 with Loch Leven in 1908, and with steelhead in 1918. Fis.h.i.+ng is reported excellent. A walk of one and a half miles due north takes us without climbing to the summit of ~Grand Mountain~ (Alt. 9350), from which is obtained a most impressive view of the ~Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne~ and ~Muir Gorge~ just below. A still finer and more comprehensive panorama may be had from the summit of ~Colby Mountain~ (Alt. 9700) on the canyon rim 2.5 miles northeast from Ten Lakes. For this short side trip one should leave the trail just before its descent into the basin and follow northward on the ridge that juts out into the main Tuolumne Canyon.

TRAIL TRIP 11

YOSEMITE TO HETCH HETCHY _via_ YOSEMITE CREEK, HARDEN LAKE AND SMITH MEADOW

(31 miles--12 hours)

From Yosemite to Hetch Hetchy is a long one-day trail trip. The following route is not especially scenic, traversing as it does the rather flat forested plateau west of Yosemite Creek. The country north of the Tioga Road is heavily grazed. Feed is sometimes scarce on this account, and the numerous cattle trails are often confusing. Near Hetch Hetchy the railroad has obliterated about three miles of trail, making it necessary to follow the railroad grade. Further changes may be expected as the work in Hetch Hetchy advances.

From ~Yosemite~ we follow Trail Trip 3 to the trail junction near the top of ~Yosemite Falls~ zigzags. Here we continue straight ahead up the west bank of Yosemite Creek, pa.s.sing beneath a beautiful forest of Jeffrey pine, white and red fir, lodgepole pine and scattered western white pine. At about a quarter mile (four miles from Yosemite) a trail branches left to ~Eagle Peak~ (Trail Trip 9). In tracing the following few miles up ~Yosemite Creek~ we often cross pavements of glaciated granite where will be found some magnificent specimens of mountain juniper. Note also the potholes in the creek bed. At three and three-quarters miles from the Eagle Peak Trail Junction the ~Ten Lakes Trail~ (Trail Trip 10) turns northeast, following up the main stream.

Our trail turns left and parallels the west branch of ~Yosemite Creek~, two and a half miles to the ~Tioga Road~, which we now follow northwestward for five miles, pa.s.sing several meadows in which are good horse-feed and camp sites. One of the largest of these meadows is ~White Wolf~. The small stream south of the road is the headwaters of the ~Middle Fork~ of the ~Tuolumne River~. There is here fair fis.h.i.+ng but the trout are small.

At a point where the road curves to the southwest, the ~Harden Lake Trail~ branches to the right. About one mile northward is a trail junction where the ~Hetch Hetchy Trail~ turns westward and the ~Harden Lake and Pate Valley Trail~ turns eastward. ~Harden Lake~ (Alt. 7575) is but a few steps distant but invisible from the Hetch Hetchy Trail.

It is small and contains no trout, but offers an attractive campsite among the meadows and park-like forests.

From Harden Lake we turn westward and for six miles ride thru unbroken forest to ~Smith Meadow~ on ~Cottonwood Creek~. Here the ~Smith Peak Trail~ turns northeast. The 1200 foot climb in two miles to ~Smith Peak~ (Alt. 7835) is well worth a side trip, as it offers a superb panorama. The north slope drops precipitously 4200 feet to the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne.

At Smith Meadow another trail follows down Cottonwood Creek and leads to ~Hog Ranch~, seven miles distant. Our trail turns northeast and in five miles descends to the ~San Francisco Railroad~ grade, which it intersects about halfway between Hog Ranch and Hetch Hetchy. Since the trail has here been obliterated it is necessary to follow the railroad grade which, with pack animals, is rather dangerous on account of the possible meeting with a train. Two miles northward at the end of the railroad is the city camp and offices, and a short distance beyond, the dam-site. From here a good road descends to the floor of ~Hetch Hetchy~, about one mile distant.

TRAIL TRIP 12

YOSEMITE TO SIERRA POINT

(4 miles--3 hours--Round trip 1/2 day)

For years there was a search for a point in Yosemite from which the five great waterfalls--Upper and Lower Yosemite, Vernal, Nevada and Illilouette--might be seen. The quest was finally ended when in 1897 Mr. Charles A. Bailey and a friend computed the location of such a point by triangulation. To their surprise it was not one of the dominating summits, but occurred rather low on the west flank of Grizzly Peak. The first ascent on June 14, 1897, proved the calculation to be correct and the crag was named Sierra Point in honor of the Sierra Club.

The trail starts from ~Happy Isles~, which are 2.3 miles distant from Yosemite. Here we turn south on the main ~Vernal~ and ~Nevada Falls Trail~ or cross Happy Isles by the footpath. A quarter mile takes us to a spring and water-trough, where the ~Sierra Point Trail~ branches to the left and ascends the flank of ~Grizzly Peak~ by switchbacks. A leisurely ascent may be made in forty-five minutes. From the point is not only a good view of the falls but an impressive panorama. The depths and distances are accentuated by the promontories being above the observer and the canyons far below.

TRAIL TRIP 13

LITTLE YOSEMITE

(Round trip, 14 to 20 miles--6 to 12 hours)

~Little Yosemite~, although quite accessible and most charming in its diversity of scenery, beauty and absolute restfulness, remains unknown to most tourists. It deserves at least one day in one's Yosemite itinerary. Fis.h.i.+ng is reported good and those interested in geology or botany will be well repaid by the trip.

Above Nevada Falls the canyon of the Merced expands to broad level meadows walled in by precipitous cliffs 1500 to 2000 feet high. Here in Little Yosemite are exhibited all of the Yosemite features--dome structure, exfoliation, glacial phenomena, "royal arches," etc., but on a somewhat smaller scale. Even the forests and flowers are similar, for the alt.i.tude is here only 6000 feet--two thousand feet higher than Yosemite. The level floor, which has also resulted from the filling in of an ancient lake, is broken in but three places by the crests of terminal moraines, which extend across the valley and cause the Merced to cascade beautifully in "silver ap.r.o.ns." In three miles the polished granite walls again converge to form a narrow canyon from which the river emerges, plunging over a beautiful cascade and into a picturesque glacial tarn. The most outstanding scenic feature of the valley is the perfectly formed ~Sugarbowl Dome~ (lately renamed Bunnell Point) at its head. ~Lost Lake~, near the south base of ~Half Dome~, is a swamp part of the season and later a boggy meadow. It is interesting only as being in the transition stage between mountain lake and mountain meadow.

Kah-win'-na-bah' was the Indian name for the valley as well as the large summer camp located there. The river was known as the Yanopah.

~Little Yosemite~ is reached by following Trail Trip 1 to the top of the Nevada Falls zigzags, thence turning left and following Trail Trip 5 to the first junction, from which we continue up the canyon. The head of the canyon is three miles eastward. The region is an excellent place for a permanent camp away from the overcrowded valley and one may easily arrange at Yosemite for the delivery here of a camp outfit and supplies.

TRAIL TRIP 14

HALF DOME

(Round trip, 20 miles--12 hours)

From the time Yosemite was discovered, the mile-high summit of Half Dome was regarded as unattainable. The few mountaineers who attempted its ascent returned saying it would never be climbed. Finally there came a young Scotchman, Captain George C. Anderson, with an irrepressible determination to accomplish the feat. After all methods of clinging to the smooth, steeply inclined granite had failed he procured drills, hammer and eye-bolts, and set out to reach the summit by rising from peg to peg. Slowly his ladder grew and finally his goal was reached on October 12, 1875. Anderson was so enthused over the wonderful dome and the sublime views from the summit that he constructed a trail to "The Saddle," from whence his pegs led to the top. Here he determined to build a hotel, but his untimely death in a lonely cabin in Little Yosemite prevented its completion.

In 1883 the pegs were swept away by a great, avalanche. Some were later replaced by daring climbers, but the ascent remained so dangerous that it was seldom attempted. From 1899 no ascents were made until 1912, when two adventurous youths fastened ropes to the few remaining pegs and attained the summit. Following this, the dome was frequently climbed. In 1919 a public-spirited citizen of San Francisco donated the money to build a first-cla.s.s trail to the summit. This was constructed under the auspices of the Sierra Club, and the once perilous ascent finally made safe to all.

The round trip to the summit is one of the most thrilling and scenic one-day Yosemite excursions. Parties should start early and carry canteens. From ~Happy Isles~ the main ~Glacier Point Trail~ (Trail Trip 1) should be followed (take the Mist Trail if walking) to the top of the ~Nevada Falls~ zigzags. Here we turn left and follow the ~Clouds Rest Trail~ (Trail Trip 5). A climb of 800 feet above the Little Yosemite Valley takes us to a small stream. About 200 yards further, in a fine grove of Jeffrey pine and incense cedar, the Clouds Rest Trail bears to the right along a bench, while our trail climbs the long switchbacks to the left. The remaining 500-foot climb is thru dense forest. Anderson's old trail crosses our route in one place and zigzags up the hillside about a quarter mile eastward. Just below the ridge and about 200 yards to the right of the trail is a spring near the big pile of stones, which are the only relics of Captain Anderson's camp. Canteens should be filled here, as no water will be found higher. A short climb takes us to the crest of the ridge at the lowest point between ~Quarter Domes~ (Alt. 8276 and 8160) at the northeast and ~Half Dome~ at the southwest.

At the ridge top is a forest of lodgepole pine and a sudden transition to pure fir as we cross to the northwestern slope where the climate is more severe. Climbing beneath these firs we suddenly emerge at the crest and obtain a wide view of the ~High Sierra~ on one side and the depths of ~Tenaya Canyon~ on the other. A few minutes' walk along the open ridge takes us to the rustic entrance which marks the beginning of the foot trail. The pile of timbers and boards nearby were hewn and split by Captain Anderson to be used for his Half Dome Hotel. The foot-trail now climbs abruptly 250 feet by short zigzags and stairs to "~The Saddle~," along the crest of which we continue to the base of the final ascent.

If tennis shoes are to be used they should be put on at this point.

The tool-box nearby contains ropes and safety belts for the use of the public, but the ascent is perfectly safe without them.

From here an 800-foot double cable railing with iron posts every ten feet leads to the top. On the steep slopes are footholds, and at one place a fifty-foot ladder carries us over the most dangerous part of the ascent. Turning to the right at the top of the cableway we follow the monuments across the surprisingly flat summit to the brink of the great northeast face, where we find an overhanging shelf of granite.

The panorama at all sides is inexpressibly grand, but some of the valley features suffer by being dwarfed in the great distances below.

The descent should be started not later than 3 to 4 p.m. in order to reach Yosemite before dark.

TRAIL TRIP 15

YOSEMITE TO GLACIER POINT _via_ THE LEDGE TRAIL

(2.5 miles. Average 4 hours climb)

Next to Half Dome, the ~Ledge Trail~ is the most thrilling of Yosemite climbs. The ascent was formerly quite dangerous, but in 1918 a safe foot-trail was constructed. The record ascent is fifty-three minutes, but this is a steep, hard, 3200-foot climb and will take the average individual three to five hours.

The trail starts from the Happy Isles Road, turning southward just east of the new ~Le Conte Lodge~. It climbs the talus slope above ~Camp Curry~ and turns westward up a steep ledge. As the trail mounts to view-commanding heights there are many unusual and impressive glimpses into the depths below. Reaching a steep canyon, the trail turns sharply to the left and climbs beside a small creek. ~The water is polluted~ and to drink it is dangerous. Near the top, the trail gradually becomes less and less steep and finally crosses the canyon rim only a few feet distant from ~Glacier Point~ and the ~Overhanging Rock~. Glacier Point Hotel is about 200 yards southward.

TRAIL TRIP 16

GLACIER POINT TO SENTINEL DOME