Bancroft's Tourist's Guide Yosemite Part 8

Before us is a broad, oddly-shaped and low-roofed chamber, about one hundred and twenty feet long, by seventy in width, and from four to twenty feet high.

Bright coral-like stalact.i.tes hang down in irregular rows and in almost every variety of shape and shade, from milk-white to cream color; forming a most agreeable contrast with the dark arches and the frowning b.u.t.tresses on either hand, while low-browed ridges, some almost black, others of a reddish-brown, stretch from either side, the s.p.a.ce between which is ornamented with a peculiar kind of coloring which nearly resembles a grotesque species of graining.

Descending toward the left, we approach one of the most singularly beautiful groups of stalact.i.tes in this apartment. Some of these are fine pendants, hardly larger than pipestems, from two to five feet long, and hollow from end to end. When the cave was first discovered there were four or five of these pendants over eight feet long, but the early admitted vandals ruthlessly destroyed, or selfishly carried them off. Others resemble the ears of white elephants, or, rather, the white elephant of Siam, while others still present the appearance of long and slender cones, inverted.

Examining this and other groups more closely, we discover at their bases coral-like excrescences of great beauty; here, like petrified moss, brilliant, and almost transparent; there, a pretty fungus, tipped and spangled with diamonds; yonder, miniature pine trees, which, with a most obliging disposition to accommodate themselves to circ.u.mstances, grow bottom up. In other places appear fleeces of the finest merino or silky floss.

Leaving these, and turning to the right, we can ascend a ladder into the loftiest part of this chamber. Here new combinations of beauty surprise and delight us. Thence pa.s.sing on, we come to a large stalagmite, whose form and size suggest a tying post for horses. This has been dignified, or mystified, anything but beautified, by different names, more or less appropriate. One is "Lot's Wife." If the woman was no higher than the stalagmite she must have been a dwarf, for the top of the post is but four feet and a quarter above its bottom, while its diameter at the bottom is hardly one foot. Its two other names, "Hercules' Club," and "Brobdignag's Forefinger," are more appropriate, though the latter would suggest an "exaggeration,"

as Mrs. Partington would have it.

Continuing on, we pa.s.s over a gently rising floor resembling solidified snow, until we approach the verge of, and look down into, an immense abyss, surmounted by a cavernous roof. Icicle and coral formations depend from the roof, and a rude drapery of jet covers the sides. Here is suspended a singular petrifaction resembling a human heart, which looks as if it might have belonged to one of the primitive t.i.tans, or come from the chest of that Miltonian monster, whose spear-shaft was like a Norway pine.

On one side of this is an elevated and nearly level natural floor, upon which a table and seats have been temporarily erected for the convenience of choristers, choirs or singing societies, and even for the accommodation of public wors.h.i.+p, should any desire to witness or partic.i.p.ate in it in this most beautiful of G.o.d's natural temples. The lover of sacred music would be delighted beyond measure to hear these "vaulted hills" resound the symphonies of Mozart, Haydn or Mendelssohn. Scores of these pendent harps would vibrate in unison, or echo them in delicious harmonies from chamber to chamber, or bear them from roof to wall in diminis.h.i.+ng reverberations even to the most remote of these rock-formed corridors.

We may not linger here too long, so pa.s.sing hence, we enter other and smaller chambers, along whose roofs we trace formations that resemble streams of water suddenly arrested in their flow and turned to ice. In another, a peculiarly shaped petrifaction presents a perfectly formed beet from one point of view, while from another it resembles a small elephant's head. Not far hence, a bell-shaped hollow, a beautiful combination of grotto and arcade, has received the name of "Julia's Bower."

Once more advancing, a narrow, low-roofed pa.s.sage brings us into the most beautiful chamber of all, the

Crystal Chapel.

No language can suitably convey, nor any comparisons worthily suggest, the combined beauty and magnificence of this wonderful spot. "From the beginning," says Hutchings, "we have felt that we were almost presumptuous in attempting to portray these wonderful scenes, but, in hope of inducing others to see, with their natural eyes, the sights that we have seen, and enjoy the pleasure that we have enjoyed, we entered upon the task, even though inadequately, of giving an outline--nothing more. Here, however, we confess ourselves entirely at a loss.

"The sublime grandeur of this imposing sight fills the soul with astonishment that swells up from within as though its purpose was to make the beholder speechless, the language of silence being the most fitting and impressive when puny man treads the great halls of nature, the more surely to lead him, humbly, from these to the untold glory of the Infinite One who devised the laws, and superintended the processes that brought such wonders into being.

"After the mind seems prepared to examine this gorgeous spectacle somewhat in detail, we look upon the ceiling, if we may so speak, which is entirely covered with myriads of the most beautiful of stone icicles, long, large and brilliant; between these are squares or panels, the mullions and bars of which seem to be formed of diamonds; while the panels themselves resemble the frosting upon windows in the very depth of winter; and even those are of many colors, that most prevailing being of a light pinkish-cream. Moss, coral, floss, wool, trees, and many other forms, adorn the interstices between the larger of the stalact.i.tes. At the further end is one vast ma.s.s of rock, resembling congealed water, apparently formed into many folds and hillocks; in many instances connected by pillars with the roof above.

Deep down and underneath this is the entrance by which we reached the chamber.

"At our right stands a large staglamite, dome-shaped at the top, and covered with beautifully undulating and wavy folds. Every imaginable gracefulness possible to the most curiously arranged drapery, is here visible, 'carved in alabaster' by the Great Architect of the universe.

This is named 'The Pulpit.'

"In order to examine this object with more minuteness, a temporary platform has been erected, which, although detractive of the general effect, in our opinion, affords a nearer and better view of all these remarkable objects in detail.

"This spectacle, as well as the others, being brilliantly illuminated, the scene is very imposing, and reminds one of those highly-wrought pictures of the imagination, painted in such charming language and with such good effect in such works as the 'Arabian Nights.'

"Other apartments known as the 'Picture Gallery,' etc., might well detain us longer, but, as in many of their most important particulars, they bear a striking resemblance to those already described, we leave them for the tourist to examine for himself." If what we have said excites the desire of any tourist to visit this new combination of wonder and beauty, we are quite sure he will agree with us that the words of man utterly fail to adequately picture forth the works of G.o.d, and will ever after delight his soul with the life-long memory of his charming visit to the wonderful Alabaster Cave.

Tourist's Complete Guide

TO

San Francisco, Suburbs and Vicinity;

WITH SPECIAL TRIPS AND SHORT EXCURSIONS IN AND ABOUT THE CITY.

I. CITY PROPER.

SKETCH OF THE CITY--Historical, Topographical, General Plan 95-107

APPROACHES TO THE CITY--From the east, by boat; from the south, by rail; from the ocean, by steams.h.i.+p, 107-113

CONVEYANCES--Hacks, Coaches, Cars, Porters, Legal Rates, Caution, Baggage and Package Express, 113-116

HOTELS--Grand, Occidental, Cosmopolitan, Lick House, Brooklyn, Russ House, American Exchange, Morton House, International, Hotel Gailhard, What Cheer, (males only), 116-121

LODGING HOUSES--Nucleus, Clarendon, 121

RESTAURANTS--Saulman's, Swain's, Job's, Martin's, Lermitte's, 121-122

BATHS--Fresh, Salt, Turkish, Russian, Roman, Steam and Vapor, 122

PLACES OF AMUs.e.m.e.nT--California, Metropolitan, Alhambra, Maguire's, and Chinese Theatres; Museums, Melodeons, Dance Halls, and Beer Cellars, 122-125

HALLS--Platt's, Union, Pacific, Mercantile Library, Mechanic's Inst.i.tute, Y. M. C. A., Mozart, Dashaway, 125-126

BILLIARDS, Bowling Saloons and Shooting Galleries, 127-128

GYMNASIUMS--Olympic Club, Y. M. C. A., German Turn Verein, Skating Rinks, Base Ball Ground, 128-130

GARDENS--Woodward's, City, 130-140

MENAGERIES--Woodward's Zoological Grounds, North Beach, 140

SQUARES AND PARKS--Plaza, (Portsmouth Square), Was.h.i.+ngton Square, South Park, 141

PROMENADES--Montgomery Street, Kearny Street, California Street. BEST TIME, 141-144

DRIVES--Cliff House Road, Ocean House Road, Bay View, New Ocean Road, Best Time, 145-148

LIBRARIES AND READING ROOMS--Mercantile, Mechanic's Inst.i.tute, Odd Fellow's, Pioneers, Y. M. C. A., What Cheer, Woodward's Gardens, 148

PUBLIC BUILDINGS--_Federal_: Post Office, Custom House, Old Mint, New Mint, Marine Hospital. _City and County_: Old City Hall, New City Hall, Jail, Almshouse, Industrial School, Engine Houses, Engines. _Corporation and Society Buildings_: Pioneer's, Merchant's Exchange, Bank of California, Mercantile Library Building, Mechanic's Inst.i.tute, Masonic Temple, Odd Fellow's Hall, Y. M. C. A.

Building, Mechanics' Pavilion, 148-157

BUSINESS BUILDINGS AND BLOCKS--Alta California Building, Bancroft's, Donohoe, Kelly & Co., Harpending's Block, Murphy, Grant & Co., Tobin, Dixon & Davisson, Treadwell's, Tucker's, Wells, Fargo & C.'s Building, White House, 157-159

MANUFACTORIES--Kimball Car and Carriage Factory, Pacific Rolling Mills, Mission Woolen Mills, Foundries and Iron Works, Locomotives, Boilers, Mining Machinery, Shot Tower and Lead Works, Sugar Refinery, Gla.s.s Works, s.h.i.+p Yards, 159-161

CHURCHES--Baptist, Congregational, Episcopal, Jewish, Methodist, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic, Swedenborgian, Unitarian, Chinese Mission House, Mariner's Church, Old Mission Church, 161-167

HOSPITALS AND ASYLUMS--City and County, French, German, Protestant Orphan, Roman Catholic Orphan, 167-169

COLLEGES--California Business University, City College, St. Ignatius', St. Mary's, Toland Medical, 169-170

SCHOOL BUILDINGS--Denman, Girl's High, Lincoln, Valencia Street, 171-172