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SLOW FIRE FOR WHEELS.
lb. oz.
Saltpetre 0 4 Brimstone 0 2 Meal-powder 0 1-1/2
or, 1 oz. of brimstone may be used with 1 oz. of antimony.
DEAD FIRE FOR WHEELS.
oz. dr.
Saltpetre 4-1/4 0 Brimstone 0-1/4 0 Lapis-caliminaris 0 2 Antimony 0 2
_Single Vertical Wheels._--There are different sorts of vertical wheels; some having their fells of a circular form, others of an hexagonal, octagonal, or decagonal form, or of any number of sides, according to the length of the cases you design for the wheel; the spokes being fixed in the nave, nail slips of tin, with their edges turned up so as to form grooves for the cases to lie in; form the end of one spoke to that of another; then tie the cases in the grooves head to tail, in the same manner as those on the horizontal water-wheel; so that the cases, successively taking fire from one another, will keep the wheel in an equal rotation. Two of these wheels are very often fired together, one on each side of a building, and both lighted at the same time, and all the cases filled alike, to make them keep time together; as they will, if made by the following directions: In all the cases of both wheels, except the first, on each wheel drive two or three ladlesful of slow fire, in any part of the case; but be careful to ram the same quant.i.ty in each case; and in the end of one of the cases, on each wheel, you may ram one ladleful of dead-fire composition, which must be very lightly driven; you may also make many changes of fire by this method.
Let the hole in the nave of the wheel be lined with bra.s.s, and made to turn on a smooth iron spindle. On the end of this spindle let there be a nut, to screw off and on; when you have put the wheel on the spindle, screw on the nut, which will keep the wheel from flying off.
Let the mouth of the first case be a little raised. Vertical wheels are made from ten inches to three feet diameter, and the size of the cases must differ accordingly; four-ounce cases will do for wheels of 14 or 16 inches diameter, which is the proportion generally used. The best wood for wheels of all sorts is a light and dry beech.
_Horizontal Wheels._--They are best when their fells are made circular; in the middle of the top of the nave must be a pintle, turned out of the same piece as the nave, two inches long, and equal in diameter to the bore of one of the cases of the wheel; there must be a hole bored up the centre of the nave, within half an inch of the top of the pintle. The wheel being made; nail at the end of each spoke (of which there should be six or eight) a piece of wood, with a groove cut in it to receive the case. Fix these pieces in such a manner that half the cases may incline upwards and half downwards, and that, when they are tied on, their heads and tails may come very nearly together: from the tail of one case to the mouth of the other carry a leader, which should be secured with pasted paper. Besides these pipes, it will be necessary to put a little meal-powder within the pasted paper, to blow off the pipe, that there may be no obstruction to the fire from the cases. By means of these pipes the cases will successively take fire, burning one upwards and the other downwards.
On the pintle fix a case of the same sort as those on the wheel; this case must be fired by a leader from the mouth of the last case on the wheel, which case must play downwards: instead of a common case in the middle, you may put a case of Chinese fire, long enough to burn as long as two or three of the cases on the wheel.
Horizontal wheels are often fired two at a time, and made to keep time like vertical wheels, only they are made without any slow or dead fire; 10 or 12 inches will be enough for the diameter of wheels with six spokes.
_Spiral Wheels._--They are only double horizontal wheels, and made thus: the nave must be about six inches long, and rather thicker than the single sort; instead of the pintle at top, make a hole for the case to be fixed in, and two sets of spokes, one set near the top of the nave, and the other near the bottom. At the end of each spoke cut a groove wherein you tie the cases, there being no fell: the spokes should not be more than two inches and a half long from the naves, so that the wheel may not be more than eight or nine inches diameter; the cases are placed in such a manner, that those at top play down, and those at bottom play up; but let the third or fourth case play horizontally. The case in the middle may begin with any of the others; six spokes will be enough for each set, so that the wheel may consist of 12 cases, besides that on the top: the cases six inches each.
_Plural Wheels._--Plural wheels are made to turn horizontally, and to consist of three sets of spokes, placed six at top, six at bottom, and four in the middle; which last must be a little shorter than the rest: let the diameter of the wheel be 10 inches: the cases must be tied on the ends of the spokes in grooves cut on purpose, or on pieces of wood nailed on the ends of the spokes, with grooves cut in them as usual: in clothing these wheels, make the upper set of cases play obliquely downwards, the bottom set obliquely upwards, and the middle set horizontally. In placing the leaders, they must be managed so that the cases may burn thus, viz., first up, then down, then horizontal, and so on with the rest. But another change may be made, by driving in the end of the eighth case two or three ladlesful of slow fire, to burn till the wheel has stopped its course; then let the other cases be fixed the contrary way, which will make the wheel run back again; for the case at top you may put a small gerbe; and let the cases on the spokes be short, and filled with a strong brilliant charge.
_Illuminated Spiral Wheel._--First have a circular horizontal wheel made two feet diameter, with a hole quite through the nave; then take three thin pieces of deal, three feet long each, and three-fourths of an inch broad each: nail one end of each of these pieces to the fell of the wheel, at an equal distance from one another, and the other end nail to a block with a hole in its bottom, which must be perpendicular to that in the block of the wheel, but not so large. The wheel being thus made, have a loop planed down very thin and flat; then nail one end of it into the fell of the wheel, and wind it round the three sticks in a spiral line from the wheel to the block at top; on the top of this block fix a case of Chinese fire; on the wheel you may place any number of cases, which must incline downwards, and burn two at a time. If the wheel should consist of ten cases, you may let the illuminations and Chinese fire begin with the second cases. The spindle for this wheel must be a little longer than the cone, and made very smooth at top, on which the upper block is to turn, and the whole weight of the wheel to rest.
_Double Spiral Wheels._--For these wheels, the block or nave must be as long as the height of the worms, or spiral lines, but must be made very thin, and as light as possible. In this block must be fixed several spokes, which must diminish in length, from the wheel to the top, so as not to exceed the surface of a cone of the same height. To the ends of these spokes nail the worms, which must cross each other several times: close these worms with illuminations, the same as those on the single wheels; but the horizontal wheel you may clothe as you like. At the top of the worm place a case of spur-fire, or an amber light.
_Balloon Wheels._--They are made to turn horizontally: they must be made two feet diameter, without any spokes, and very strong, with any number of sides. On the top of a wheel range and fix in pots, three inches diameter and seven inches high each, as many of these as there are cases on the wheel: near the bottom of each pot make a small vent; into each of these vents carry a leader from the tail of each case; load some of the pots with stars, and some with serpents, crackers, &c. As the wheels turn, the pots will successively be fired, and throw into the air a great variety of fires.
BALLOON CASES.
You must have an oval former, turned of smooth wood; then paste a quant.i.ty of brown or cartridge-paper, and let it lie till the paste has soaked all through; this done, rub the former with soap or grease, to prevent the paper from sticking to it; then lay the paper on in small slips, till you have made it one-third of the thickness of the sh.e.l.l intended. Having thus done, set it to dry; and when dry, cut it round the middle, leaving about one inch not cut, which will make the halves join much better than if quite separated. When you have some ready to join, place the halves even together, and let that dry; then lay on paper all over as before, everywhere equal. When the sh.e.l.l is thoroughly dry, burn a vent at top with a square iron.
Sh.e.l.ls that are designed for stars only, may be made quite round, and the thinner they are at the opening the better; for if they are too strong, the stars are apt to break at the bursting of the sh.e.l.l.
Balloons must always be made to go easy into the mortars.
MORTARS.
These mortars must be made of pasteboard, with a small copper chamber at bottom, in which the powder is to be placed, on which the balloon is to be put. In the centre of the bottom of this chamber make a small hole a little down the foot: the hole must be met by another of the same size as the foot. Then putting a quick-match, or touch-string, of touch-paper, into the hole, your mortar will be ready to be fired.
_To load Air Balloons with Stars, Serpents, &c., &c._--When you fill your sh.e.l.ls, you must first put in the serpents, rains, &c., or whatever they are composed of, then the blowing powder; but the sh.e.l.ls must not be quite filled. All those things must be put in at the fuse-hole, but marrons being too large to go in at the fuse-hole, must be put in before the inside shall be joined. When the sh.e.l.ls are loaded, glue and drive in the fuses very tight. The number and quant.i.ties of each article for the different sh.e.l.ls are as follows:
BALLOONS ILLUMINATED.
oz.
Meal-powder 1 Corn-powder 0-1/2 Powder for the mortar 2
1 oz. driven or rolled stars, or as many as will fill the sh.e.l.l.
BALLOONS OR SERPENTS.
oz.
Meal-powder 1 Corn-powder 1 Powder for the mortar 2-1/2
_Aigrettes._
Mortars to throw aigrettes are generally made of pasteboard, of the same thickness as balloon mortars, and two diameters and a half long in the inside from the top of the foot: the foot must be made of elm without a chamber, but flat at top, and in the same proportions as those for balloon mortars; these mortars must also be bound round with a cord: sometimes eight or nine of these mortars, of about three or four inches diameter, are bound all together, so as to appear but one; but when they are made for this purpose, the bottom of the foot must be of the same diameter as the mortars, and only half a diameter high.
The mortars being bound well together, fix them on a heavy solid block of wood. To load these mortars, first put on the inside bottom of each a piece of paper, and on it spread one ounce and a half of meal and corn-powder mixed; then tie the serpents up in parcels with quick-match, and put them in the mortar with their mouths downwards; but take care the parcels do not fit too tight in the mortars, and that all the serpents have been well primed with powder wetted with spirit of wine. On the top of the serpents in each mortar lay some paper or tow; then carry a leader from one mortar to the other all round, and then from all the outside mortars into that in the middle: these leaders must be put between the cases and the sides of the mortar, down to the powder at bottom: in the centre of the middle mortar fix a fire-pump, or brilliant fountain, which must be open at bottom, and long enough to project out of the mouth of the mortar; then paste papers on the tops of all the mortars.
Mortars thus prepared are called a _nest of serpents_. When these mortars are to be fired, light the fire-pump, which when consumed will communicate to all the mortars at once by means of the leaders. For mortars of 8, 9, or 10 inches diameter, the serpents should be made in one and two-ounce cases, six or seven inches long, and fired by a leader brought out of the mouth of the mortar, and turned down on the outside, and the end of it covered with paper, to prevent the sparks of the other works from setting it on fire. For a six-inch mortar, let the quant.i.ty of powder for firing be two ounces; for an eight-inch, two ounces and three-quarters; and for a ten-inch, three ounces and three-quarters. Care must be taken in these, as well as small mortars, not to put in the serpents too tight, for fear of bursting the mortars. These mortars may be loaded with stars, crackers, &c.
If the mortars, when loaded, are sent to any distance, or liable to be much moved, the firing powder should be secured from getting amongst the serpents, which would endanger the mortars, as well as hurt their performance. To prevent this, load the mortars thus: First put in the firing powder, and spread it equally about; then cut a round piece of blue touch-paper, equal to the exterior diameter of the mortar, and draw on it a circle equal to the interior diameter of the mortar, and notch it all round as far as that circle: then paste that part which is notched, and put it down the mortar close to the powder, and stick the pasted edge to the mortar: this will keep the powder always smooth at bottom, so that it may be moved or carried anywhere without receiving damage. The large single mortars are called _pots des aigrettes_.
FIRE-PUMPS, OR ROMAN CANDLES.
Cases for fire-pumps are made like those for tourbillons; only they are pasted instead of being rolled dry. Having rolled and dried your cases fill them: first put in a little meal-powder and then a star, on which ram, lightly, a ladle or two of composition, then a little meal-powder, and on that a star; then again composition, and so on till you have filled the case. Stars for fire-pumps should not be round, but must be made either square, or flat and circular with a hole through the middle: the quant.i.ty of powder for throwing the stars must increase as you come near the top of the case; for, if much powder be put at the bottom, it will burst the case. The stars must differ in size in this manner: let the star which you put in first be a little less than the bore of the case; but let the next star be a little larger, and the third star a little larger than the second, and so on: let them increase in diameter till within two of the top of the case, which two must fit in tight. As the loading of fire-pumps is somewhat difficult, it will be necessary to make two or three trials before you depend on their performance. When you fill a number of pumps, take care not to put in each an equal quant.i.ty of charge between the stars, so that when they are fired they may not throw up too many stars together. Cases for fire-pumps should be made very strong, and rolled on 4 or 8-ounce formers, 10 or 12 inches long each.
CHARGE.
lb. oz. lb. oz.
Saltpetre 5 0 Saltpetre 5 0 Brimstone 1 0 Brimstone 2 0 Meal-powder 1-1/2 0 Meal-powder 1 8 Gla.s.s-dust 1 0 Gla.s.s-dust 1 8
AN ARTIFICIAL EARTHQUAKE.
Mix the following ingredients to a paste, with water; bury it in the ground, and in a few hours the earth will break open in several places:
lb. oz.
Sulphur 4 0 Steel-dust 4 0
_Chinese Fountains._
To make a Chinese fountain, you must have a perpendicular piece of wood, seven feet long, and two inches and a half square. Sixteen inches from the top, fix on the front a cross piece one inch thick, and two and a half broad, with the broad side upwards; below this, fix three more pieces of the same width and thickness, at sixteen inches from each other; let the bottom rail be five feet long, and the others of such a length as to allow the fire-pumps to stand in the middle of the intervals of each other. The pyramid being thus made, fix in the holes made in the bottom rail five fire-pumps, at equal distances; on the second rail, place four pumps; on the third, three; on the fourth, two; and on the top of the post, one; but place them all to incline a little forward, that, when they throw out the stars, they may not strike against the cross-rails. Having fixed your fire-pumps, clothe them with leaders, so that they may all be fired together.
_The Dodecahedron,_
So called because it nearly represents a twelve-sided figure, is made thus: First have a ball turned out of some hard wood, 14 inches diameter; divide its surface into 14 equal parts, from which bore holes one inch and a half diameter, perpendicular to the centre, so that they may all meet in the middle: then let there be turned in the inside of each hole a female screw; and to all the holes but one must be made a round spoke five feet long, with four inches of the screw at one end to fit the holes; then in the screw-end of all the spokes bore a hole five inches long, which must be bored slanting, so as to come out at one side, a little above the screw; from which cut a small groove along the spoke within six inches of the other end, where make another hole through to the other side of the spoke. In this end fix a spindle, on which put a small wheel of three or four sides, each side six or seven inches long; these sides must have grooves cut in them large enough to receive a two or four-ounce case. When these wheels are clothed, put them on the spindles, and at the end of each spindle put a nut, to keep the wheel from falling off. The wheels being thus fixed, carry a pipe from the mouth of the first case on each wheel, through the hole in the side of the spoke, and from thence along the groove, and through the other hole, so as to hang out at the screw-end about an inch. The spokes being all prepared in this manner, you must have a post, on which you intend to fire the work, with an iron screw in the top of it, to fit one of the holes in the ball: on the screw fix the ball; then in the top hole of the ball put a little meal-powder and some loose quick-match: then screw in all the spokes; and in one side of the ball bore a hole, in which put a leader, and secure it at the end, and the work will be ready to be fired. By the leader the powder and match in the centre is fired, which will light the match at the ends of the spokes all at once, whereby all the wheels will be lighted at once. There may be an addition to this piece, by fixing a small globe on each wheel, or one on the top wheel only. A grey charge will be proper for the wheel-cases.
_Stars with Points._
These stars are made of different sizes, according to the work for which they are intended; they are made with cases from one ounce to one pound, but in general with four-ounce cases, four or five inches long: the case must be rolled with paste, and twice as thick as that of a rocket of the same bore. Having rolled a case, pinch one end of it quite close; then drive in half a diameter of clay; and when the case is dry, fill it with composition two or three inches to the length of the cases with which it is to burn: at top of the charge drive some clay; as the ends of these cases are seldom pinched, they would be liable to take fire. Having filled a case, divide the circ.u.mference of it at the pinched end close to the clay, into five equal parts; then bore five holes with a gimblet about the size of the neck of a common four-ounce case, into the composition; from one hole to the other carry a quick-match, and secure it with paper: this paper must be put on in the manner of that on the end of wheel-cases, so that the hollow part, which projects from the end of the case, may serve to receive a leader from any other work, to give fire to the points of the stars. These stars may be made with any number of points.