Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries Part 24

On the Kala Panee, scarcely any Podostemon griffithia; except a few small ones, very few signs or appearance of fresh plants. Along the Boga Panee, among the wet rocks which form its banks, a fine Parna.s.sia; a trailing Arbutoidea; a very European looking Quercus; Anesadenia p.u.b.escens, a Circaea, Campanulae 2, AEschynomene, Crotalaria, a Serissa?; this last continuing to Moflong, a fine Osbeckia, and Gnaphalium aereonitus may likewise be found. On the ascent, few new plants occur; Rhinanthoidea, Osbeckia nepalensis, and capitata, Conyzoidea, Dipsacus, Gnaphalium foliis linearibus, Crotolaria hoveoides, Colutoidea, Pteris (Aquilina.) Scutellaria, Potentilla, Smilax occur at 5,000 feet with Plantago, Fragaria and Artemisia, as well as lower down. The most striking plant is a Delphinium, which, at about 5,000 feet, occurs stunted; this is common about Moflong.

Agrimonia range from 3,500 to 5,500 feet, where they are very common, Hyperic.u.m three sorts occur, H. myrtifolium commences, about Churra, re- occurs here and there on the road to Moflong, about which it is very common. H. ovalifolium, is more elevational, scarcely descending below 5,000 feet; H. j.a.ponic.u.m is found from towards Mahadeb to Moflong; H.

fimbriatum foliis decussatis, scarcely below 5,000 feet; Leucas galea brunneo villosa on gra.s.sy hills is common towards Boga Panee, and continues as high as Moflong.

Quercus commences about Mahadeb: a new species occurs on the edge of woods towards the Kala Panee; alt.i.tude 5,000 feet; it nearly commences with two Rhododendra, which, at least the arborescent one, arrives at perfection on the Kala Panee.

Viburna continue; Salix (fruticose) commences about 5,000 feet, continues here and there to Moflong. Buddleia Neemda is found about Churra, but not commonly; and soon disappears. B. 4-alata commences beyond the Churra Punjee, and continues as far as Moflong.

Thibaudia buxifolia becomes less common beyond 5,000 feet; other forms of Ericineae appear in places about 5,000 feet, Gaultheria continuing as far as Moflong. Eurya species alterum, commences about the same elevation, continuing to Moflong.

Three species of Spiraea are found between Surureem and Moflong, none perhaps below 5,000 feet; Prunella occurs about the same height, continuing as far as Moflong.

On crossing the Boga Panee, the country becomes perhaps more undulated and much more barren, scarcely any arborescent vegetation is to be seen, the little woody vegetation consisting of stunted shrubs. Immediately around Moflong, the country is excessively bare, not a tree is to be seen, even the sides of ravines being clothed with stunted shrubs.

Berberis asiatica, Viburna, Spiraea _bella_? Eurya _camellifolia_, Betula _corylifolia_.

To the north, fine woods are seen, and to the east, fir woods, the nearest being about 4 miles off. The village is small and wretchedly dirty, the paths being the worst of all I have seen on these hills. The houses and the adjoining fields are surrounded with hedges of Colquhounia, Erythrina, Buddlaea.

In waste places Colquhounia _micrantha_, Cysticapnos, Verbesina, Pteris, Davallia, etc. are to be found, as well as Codonopsis viridiflora. The hills are covered with low gra.s.s, almost a sward. On this, Potentilla, Agrimonia, Geranium as well as in fields, Pisoideum floribus cyaneis, Campanula, Aster disco azureo may be found; on low spots a very small Parna.s.sia, and a still smaller Ischaemum.

Ranunculus, one species, but this is uncommon; Delphinium is common in thickets, etc.

The only cultivation is potatoes, a few years since introduced, and which answers admirably, some turnips and Glycine tuberosa. Cattle, goats and pigs abundant.

On the whole this is to be considered as the place where the peculiar vegetation of Churra, arrives at its boundary, for although many of the plants of the plains are to be found, they are all in a dwarf state.

Noticed a Hoopoo, but birds in general are not frequent.

CHAPTER X.

_Continues the Journey towards a.s.sam and Bootan_.

The annexed table of the distributions of plants in relation to alt.i.tudes of the Khasyah mountains may render the subject of the preceding observations more clear and distinct. The dotted line along the left hand margin represents the elevation of the mountains, the greater height of which is something better than 6,000 feet.

[Gradient Surureem to Moflong: g163.jpg]

_October 8th_.--Visited the fir wood, which is about three miles to the eastward; the road runs over the same _downey_ ground. The first plant that appears is a Boreal Euphorbia, allied to that previously mentioned.

A Sanguisorba of large stature occurs in low wet places. Epilob.u.m not uncommon. The Pines appear first straggling, and they only form a wood in one place, and even there not of much extent; none are of any size.

Musci Lichens and fungi abound in the wood, as also Circaea and Herminium?

Osbeckia Nepalensis, Hedychia 2, a small Goodyera, Tricyrtis Hedera, Polygonum, Polypodium, Gaultheria, Viburnum, Thibaudiacea fructibus gratis, subacidis. Eurya, Valeriana, Quercus, may likewise be found.

Salix occurs on the skirts in low places. The hills around are clothed with gra.s.ses, among which is a large Airoidea; in the low valleys between these, intersected with small water-courses, three species of Juncus, a curious Umbellifera fistulosa, and Mentha verticillata, occur. Another Hyperic.u.m is likewise found in lately cleared places.

Some cultivation occurs about the place on the slopes of hills, chiefly of a Digitaria, sown broadcast, and tied up in bundles when nearly ripe; together with Glycine tuberosa, and Coix Lacryme.

To the eastward the hills become more rocky, affording little vegetation, the chief plant is an Othonnoidea; another Herminioidea, and a Habenariod, both out of flower, may be found, the former on hills, the latter in low places; a tall Campanula was among the new plants, and an Umbellifera with curious foliage.

The height of this ridge is 5,768 feet, the temperature being 74 degrees, and water boiling at 201.75 degrees.

Took the elevation of Moflong bungalow. Temperature of the air 65 degrees; water boiled at 202.25 degrees; this gives 5,410 feet.

There are several high rounded hills about this place, (one to the south of the Boga Panee,) the generality of which are more elevated than those on the northern side; the most conspicuous is the hill near Moleem, the north face of which is wooded, and which is at least 1,000 feet above Moflong.

8 P.M. Temperature 58.5 degrees. 5 P.M. 65 degrees.

_October 9th_.--Rain as usual in the morning. Thermometer at 7 A.M., 58.5 degrees.

_October 10th_.--A fine bracing cold morning, with the thermometer at 53.5 degrees. 7 A.M. left for Myrung. The march to Syung is uninteresting, pa.s.sing over precisely the same country as that about Moflong, with vegetation much the same. A tall Carduaceous tree with pink flowers was found in the swampy bottoms of the valleys. About Syung, a seneciois tree foliis angustissimus. It is about this place that the sides of the ravines become clothed with forest, and from this northward, Pines increase in abundance. Anthistiria speculis villosissimis continues here and there; a good deal of cultivation pa.s.sed on the road, especially under Syung to the south, where there is a large valley. The chief cultivation appears to be Coix, Glycine, and some rice, but the produce seemed very small. At the foot of Syung on the north side, large tufts of Juncus occur, and on the first ascent another species of Valeriana foliis radicalibus reniformi cordatus occurs. Urena lobale was noticed as high as 5,300 feet. Between Syung and Myrung, especially about Nungbree, Parna.s.sia recurs, with another species of Epilobium, Xyris, Juncus, the Senecioneoe, etc.; a new Impatiens occurs towards Myrung. Generally speaking, the plants are much the same as those about Moflong; but several new Compositae occur.

The road leaves Nungbree to the right, leaving the most interesting parts of the march behind. Altogether not more than 20 additional plants occurred in a journey of 6 hours. Many parts are wet and marshy, and there is an absence of all tree vegetation, until one reaches Syung. This makes the first part of the way somewhat tedious. At Syung an Elaeagnus occurs; Colquhounia as usual in hedges; Styrax occurs at foot of the hill the alt.i.tude of which is 5,000 feet.

An anemone is common on road sides, especially on this side of Syung; a new Potentilla occurs; and the only Boragineous plant hitherto seen by me on these hills, a Cynoglossum closely allied to C. canescens. The alt.i.tude of Syung is 5,594 feet. The temperature being 70 degrees, and water boiling at 202 degrees. Myrung 6 P.M. Thermometer 65 degrees.

_October 11th_.--Myrung 7 A.M. temp. 63 degrees Fahr.; noon 67 degrees; 6 P.M. temp. 65 degrees; 9 temp. P.M. 62.5 degrees. Weather unsettled, showery, and very cloudy, a very fine view is had of Bootan and the Himalayas from this place, particularly about 7 A.M. when the atmosphere is clear, the Durrung peaks being most magnificent. The vegetation of the hills about here is much the same as about Moflong. The woods are fine, composed chiefly of oaks; a Magnolia, which is a very large tree, likewise occurs together with Gordonia, an occasional Pinus, Myrica integrifolia. The most curious tree is one which with the true appearance of an Elaeagnus, seems to be a Loranthus, the first arborescent species yet found, although, as one or two other exceptions occur to parasitism, there is no reason why there should not be a terrestrial arborescent species, as well as a fruticose one. The wood to the east of the bungalow, which clothes a deep and steep ravine, has a very rich flora; a dryish ridge on the other side of its torrent abounds with Orchideae, and presents an arborescent Gaultheria. The ridge in question may be recognised by its large rocks which are covered with Epiphytes Mosses, etc. In this wood Pothos flammea is very common, climbing up the trees as well as hanging in festoons. The marshes which are frequented by a few snipe, present gra.s.ses, the usual Cyperaceae, Xyris, occurs but is not common; Panic.u.m stagninum? Eriocaulon spe.

fluitans? Burmannia Rungioidea floribus carneis magnis, Senecionides, Ammannia rotundifolia, Sphagnum, Carduacea floribus roseis, Limnophilae sp. Mentha verticillata, and the others previously found in similar situations. _Goldfussia_ so common about Churra, recurs here, but rarely.

The wood abounds with several species of birds, among which a green _Bulbul_ is the most common, then the fan-tailed Parus, with its coquettish airs; judging from the voice there is a species of Bucco. Both species of Phaenicornis, yellow and crimson, described in Gould's Century as male and female, and the black Edolius are found. The only animals are two species of squirrel, and a genet, of which I shot one, but although it fell from a height of 70 feet or so, I could not succeed in securing it; it is a lengthy animal, black and grey, with a long tail, climbing trees with great facility. The ring-dove of Churra continues.

The weather during the four days I stayed at Myrung was unsettled; fine usually in the morning, but cloudy and showery in the evening; the range of the thermometer from 53 degrees, at 6.5 A.M. to 68 degrees in the afternoon in an open verandah. The place, however, is not a cheerful one, for the aspect on every side except to the E. and NE. is dreary, marshes and the usual bleak gra.s.sy hills being alone visible. My favourite spot in this direction would be the Nungbree hill, the alt.i.tude of which, at least of that part over which the road to the village runs, is 5,439, (or probably 5,700,) temperature of the air being **, and water boiling at 202.5 degrees. There is a beautiful and very extensive wood at Nungbree, the largest I have yet seen; it consists, at least at the skirts, princ.i.p.ally of oaks; a large Pyrus is also not uncommon. Eurya, and an arborescent Buddleia likewise occur.

[THE OK-KLONG ROCK: p167.jpg]

At this place Plectranthus azureus makes its appearance, otherwise the vegetation is that of Myrung; the most remarkable plant is a huge Sarcocordalis, parasitic on the roots of a large climbing Cissus cortice suberosa, foliis quinatis, on the wet parts of the wood, especially towards the mountain foot, mosses abound, chiefly the pendent Hypna and Neckerae.

On the 13th, I went to a celebrated rock called Kullung, bearing about NW. from Myrung, from the heights surrounding which it is visible; the road runs off from the Nunklow nearly opposite Monei, near to which village one pa.s.ses; the village is of no great size, and as well as others in this direction is inhabited chiefly by blacksmiths, the iron being procured from the sand washed down the mountain torrents; the sound of their anvils when beaten is very soft and musical, not unlike that of a sheep bell. The road to the rock is very circuitous; it finally ceases, and for an hour one traverses ridges on which no path exists, having the usual vegetation. The rock is certainly a vast ma.s.s, forming a precipice of 700 feet to the westward, on which side it is nearly bare of vegetation, gradually shelving to the east, and covered with tree-jungle, among which huge mosses are to be found. At its foot some fine fir trees occur, one at its very base measured nine feet in circ.u.mference, but had no great height. The forest consists of Oaks, Pines, Panax, Erythrina Eurya, Gordonia.

The base of the rock is covered with mosses, Hepaticae, a Didymocarpus, Caelogyne and some other epiphylical orchideae, among others Bolbophyllum cylindraceum.

All these continue to its apex, except the mosses and Hepaticae, which are gained by clambering, and proceeding up fissures clothed with gra.s.ses. The apex is rounded, presenting here and there patches of gra.s.s, Aira, and Nardus, together with a few stunted shrubs--Viburnum, another Rhododendron, and Didymocarpus common, Caelogyne in profusion, Bolbophyllum cylindraceum in abundance, mosses, Lichens, an Allium also in abundance on the slopes, Stellaria in the woods towards the middle.

The view to the westward in particular was pretty, embracing a fine well- wooded undulated valley, with several villages and a stream of some size.

The plains of a.s.sam and the huge Brahmapoutra were likewise seen, but not very clearly. The distance from Myrung to the Kullung rock is certainly not less than eight miles, the time it took was 4 hours. The alt.i.tude of the rock is 5,392 feet, temperature 76 degrees, water boiling at 202.5.

Wild hog are found round its base. {168}

_October 14th_.--I left for Moleem, the march is long and fatiguing; the road leaves the Moflong road at about four miles from the village of that name, continuing over similar barren hills, clothed with scanty gra.s.s. On reaching Morung firs become common, but they are small. The view of Moleem, from this direction is remarkably pretty; the country being better wooded, especially with young firs, and the effect being much increased by the quant.i.ties of large boulders that occur strewn in every direction. The Boga Panee is here a contemptible stream, not knee deep. Moleem is a place of some size on the left bank of the river, occupying the side of a hill of considerable height. Thermometer 7 P.M.

58 degrees.

_October 15th_.--Temp. 7 A.M. 53 degrees, at 3 P.M. 70.5 degrees, water boiled at 204 degrees, alt.i.tude 4,473 feet, or perhaps rather more.

Walked towards Nogandree; between this and a stream resembling the Boga Panee there is a pretty valley, the eminences generally well-wooded with young firs. Pretty and eligible sheltered sites might here be chosen for a Sanatarium. The vegetation is the same as that of Moflong--Delphinium, Ranunculus, Anemone, Potentilla, Tricyrtis, Codonopsis, Lilium giganteum, Spiraeaceae, Viola, Pyrus, Galium, Carduus, Viburna.

The woods are not very frequent, they consist, when not exclusively of Pines, chiefly of Oaks and Chesnuts. Underwood almost entirely of Acanthaceae. Rhus Bucki-Amelam is common here, an Oxalis occurs in very shady places with fleshy leaves, it is so large that it is scarcely referrible to O. corniculata. Berberis asiatica is very common. 6 P.M.

thermometer 58 degrees, 9 P.M. 50.5 degrees.

_October 16th_.--7 A.M. 842.5 degrees (sic). Ascended the Chillong hill, which is among the highest portion of this range, it is said that from this both the plains of Bengal and of a.s.sam may be seen, not because it overtops all the intermediate ground, but because that happens in some places to be rather low; the termination of the 1st elevation above Churra, is seen to be very abrupt, but nothing can be seen beyond the elevated plateau of this part towards the south. To the east and west the view has the usual appearance--gra.s.sy valleys and hills--with a great disproportion of jungle.

The summit is gained after an easy march of two hours; the ascent is gradual. The highest ridge is naked of trees, but to the north the slope is in one portion covered with heavy tree-jungle, in which the underwood is as thick as I have ever seen it: it consists of an Acanthaceous plant; the forest itself of oaks, chesnuts and Rhododendron arboreum, which last is common on the highest margin. A few Pines occur, but scarcely above the middle of the hill. To the north very high ground is visible, as likewise from Myrung, and between this and Chillong is an elevated plateau which appears to me likewise very eligible for the sites of European residences.