Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries Part 25

But many places about Moleem are so, especially towards Nonkreem; and it is much to be regretted that some situation in this part of the range had not been selected for the site of a sanatarium instead of Churra. The Rhododendra were covered with mosses and other epiphytes, among which Otochilus occurred. Bambusae, 2 Fici sp. Andropogon, Gaylussacia, etc.

occur about the wood. The vegetation of the gra.s.sy hills was precisely the same, Aroidea, Erianthus, Tofieldioidea, Parna.s.sia nana _potius_ _collina_, Sphacelioidea, Osbeckia, Arbutoideae, etc. I got scarcely a single new plant; the best was a fine large Neckera, sect. Dendroidea.

The temperature being 70 degrees: water boiled at 201 degrees, making the alt.i.tude 6,167 feet. No view of any particular beauty was obtained, nor did any thing occur to repay me for the trouble and fatigue of the journey.

About Moleem an Osmundoid is common enough, but not in _flower_: the northern forms are Ranunculus, Anemone, Parna.s.sia, Pyrus, Pinus, Viola, Galium, Campanula, Clematis, of which an additional species occurs, Bromoideae, etc. etc., as at Moflong. I took the height of this place again; the mean of the three thermometers gave 4,502 feet, the temperature being at 60 degrees: water boiling at 95 degrees, 203.75 degrees, 204 degrees. It must, however, be remembered that my residence is not 100 feet above the bed of the Boga Panee, so that it would be easy to attain an elevation of 5,000 feet in the village itself.

_October 17th_.--I returned to Churra to send away my collections and to consult with Major Lister as to the routes proposed for me by Capt.

Jenkins, viz. through the Garrows, or through the Cacharees. Nothing particular occurred en route. I met with Hydrangea exaltata along a torrent flowing into the main-feeder of the Boga Panee, and two other Araliaceae. The highest ground crossed is towards the ravine of the Boga Panee, and from this a good view of Moflong is obtained, and also of the Himalayas in clear weather. Coelogyne Wallichiana was commencing to flower; this plant occurs in profusion in some rocky spots about Moflong.

The only additional thing I remarked was, that Luculia scarcely reaches the Kala Panee.

On my return to Churra, a change was observed in the character of the vegetation, all the Tradescantias had ceased, as well as most of the Impatientes, and Eriocaulons. The gra.s.ses had become more withered, and the general tint was brown. No kites (Falco milvus) are to be observed out of Churra.

The plants which were particularly conspicuous about Churra, were past flowering in the interior; thus...o...b..ckia Nepalensis? was not to be met with in flower in the interior, while it is in profusion about the station. The same may be said of other instances.

After all Churra presents the richest flora of any other place in the Khasyah hills, because there is a greater extent of wood near it, than is found in any other locality, much greater _alt.i.tudes_ and deeper descents in its ravines, and it is as it were the transit point between a tropical or sub-tropical, and a temperate vegetation. I have no doubt, that within a circle of three miles of Churra, 3,000 species might be found in one year.

The princ.i.p.al plants pointing out the tropical nature of the vegetation are Panda.n.u.s, which is almost limited to the limestone formation, on which it is excessively abundant, Chamaerops Martiana? which from its affecting particularly the walls of the amphitheatres so conspicuous about Moosmai, Mamloo and Surureem, and the depths of whose sides is probably at Mamloo 1,000 feet, might have been better named. I have never seen it on any other places. The Alsophila Brunoniana is likewise apparently confined to the limestone hills, while the tree fern, Polypodium, is found on sandstone, as well as Impatiens, Tradescantia, Commelineae, Eriocauloneae, Xyres, almost all the gra.s.ses, Melastomaceae, almost all the Leguminosae and the preponderance of tropical Rubiaceae, which are, however, few, Scitamineae, Epiphytical Orchideae, Urena l.a.b.i.ata, etc. etc.

On the _23rd_ I went to Mamloo, which is about four miles to the west of Churra. To this place the limestone ridge, extending from Churra, nearly approaches: its vegetation is not rich but always stunted: rocky amphitheatres are very remarkable at Mamloo, they are of excessive depth; their walls being generally perpendicular, often somewhat overhanging.

The manner of their formation is now to be seen in the amphitheatre immediately contiguous to the village, although it appears to be very slow. It is thus, bodies of water falling from the edge of the table land, seem to undermine the sandstone below, producing land slips, which occur in this manner year after year. Since 1835, the edge of the Moosmai fall has receded at least 10 feet, and ample evidence remains of the recession to take place next rains. This simple undermining will suffice for the formation of ravines, which are formed by their sides merely slipping down without being carried away, this last only occurring in the immediate vicinity of the strength of the torrent. All the different stages may be easily seen. The edge of the table land I take to have been originally at Mahadeb. The time that has elapsed between the falling of the first cataract over its edge, and the formation of the edge over which the waters at present fall, must be immense, since that edge has now receded several miles. Allowing the annual recess to be 5 feet, and the distance 5 miles; the time occupied would be 5,700 years: that the time has been great, is proved by the sides of these places being clothed with large tree-jungle to the base of the scarp.

_October 25th_.--I went in search of the fossil marine beach, (found during our first visit in 1835,) but pa.s.sed it, and my journey ended at the site of the Jasper beds: this occupies a ridge where roads strike off leading to the Orange villages, so called from the groves of orange trees by which they are surrounded, and from which they derive their name. From this spot, 3 villages are seen occupying sheltered situations, none much above 2,000 feet in elevation. Luckily I was accompanied, (although going down I was unconscious of it,) by a boy who had been with McClelland when he originally discovered the fossil remains, so I recommenced the ascent, after digging in many places without any success.

The site is scarcely 1,000 feet below Mamloo, which is 3,153 feet; it is below the ridge along which the road is visible from the village, and is about 100 yards farther from it than the second square stone erection.

One would imagine that one was pa.s.sing through rocks presenting nothing interesting: the rocks are in many places very hard, particularly when they have been long exposed to the atmosphere, in which case they are less red than when sheltered by vegetation, when they are soft and of a reddish colour: the fossils are by no means frequent, the cylindric _tubes_ appear to occupy the outer or rather upper surface of the sandstone, in the interior of which Medusae or Cyrtomae are most frequent, accompanied by sh.e.l.ls, some of large size, the largest bivalves resembling _scolloped oysters_; the next in size looking like oblong c.o.c.kles: for only in one position did I see a conglomeration of minute sh.e.l.ls; this occurred above the others and nearer the jungle. I brought away with me, two boxes full. Owing to my presuming that I should meet with water near, I omitted the precaution of taking some with me, so I could not ascertain exactly the height of the place. All the fossils are easily friable. {172}

From the Jasper, which is scarce 1,800 feet in elevation, the following plants occurred nearly in succession--Holmskioldia, this is scarcely found above 2,000 feet; Porana in abundance, gradually diminis.h.i.+ng above; Callicarpa arborea abundant, continuing to about 2,200; Triumfetta, Urena lobata, Arundo the same as above, Melica latifolia, Panic.u.m plicatum, and one or two other species; a Polygonum, Andropogon, small Commeline, Leea, Erythrina are very close to the spot, and the only Churra plant, except the Arundo and Wendlandia is a l.a.b.i.ata, Geniosporum? so is Composita arborea; indeed the vegetation is almost decidedly tropical. The following plants are then seen--Tetranthera, Flemingia as at Mahadeb, Vitis, Drymaria, Panic.u.m eleusinoides, Eurya, Panax foliis decompositis inermis, Pogonatherum crenitum, Wallichia, which occur before one has gained an ascent of 2,000 feet: Osbeckia nepalensis descends to this but in small quant.i.ties; then I remarked Bidens, AEtheilema, Caricineae, Rottlera, Didymocarpus, Begonia, Cheilanthes dealbata, Stemodia ruderalis? Scutellaria, Impatiens bracteata, Rungiae sp. Sida, Elephantopus sp. and Bambusa, Gordonii occurring there at an elevation of about 2,100 feet. Then Centotheca lappacea, Deeringia, Panic.u.m _centrum_, Gouania, Caryophyllus, which last occurs on all the chain of Himalayas, and which I have seen as high as 6,000 feet in the Mishmee Mountains, lat.i.tude 28 degrees. Panax foliis palmatim part.i.tis, Clerodendrum nutans, Ficus feruginea and F. hispida, foliis cordatis, serrato-dentatis: then Saurauja micrantha; before 2,300 feet were reached. There Oxyspora sp. paniculis cernius ramis ascendentibus, frutex, Croton of old, Ruellia persicaefolia appeared, and about 2,400 feet, the 1st Quercus appeared. Here, as at Mahadeb, Ruellia Neesiana became common, and Linum trigynum, Uncinia, etc. Gra.s.ses commence to preponderate at about 2,800 feet, but not the gra.s.ses of Churra. Holcus, Airoides, etc. not being found, but Panica varia, and Rottboellia which ceases above this.

At the raised Marine Fossil Beach, a queer Cephalanthus? Legumenosa arbuscula fol. pinnatis impari (Pongamiae) Legumenibus secus suturam quamque alatis, Mangifera indici, Anthistiria arundinacea are found, and an arbusculous Mimosa, but unarmed. Shortly above this, Holcus, Andropogons, etc., begin to preponderate, and thence the vegetation is nearly that of Churra. The woods of Mamloo consist of Bucklandia, oaks, chesnuts, Panax, Hyalostemma, Eurya, and Oleineoe; Epiphytes are very common. The most remarkable tree is one foliis alternis bistipulat; corymbis denis, Calycibus hinc fissis, petalis 5-albis, Antherae sinuosae columna terminans, et ovarium et stigma occultantes? fructibus pendulis stipilatis ovato oblongis, carpellis 5-latere marginatus.

This has some affinities apparently with Sterculiaceae; the flowers are perhaps polygamous.

Here Cypripedium insigne, Venustum, and various other fine Orchideae may be found.

The only bird I saw was a Bucco, which in voice resembled the green one of the plains.

The elevation of Mamloo is 3,153, the temperature being at 7 A.M. 63 degrees. The large metal thermometer rose at the boiling point to 206.25 degrees: wooden one to 206.5 degrees: centigrade 96.7 degrees: small metal 200 degrees.

One of the most curious places about Churra is situated over the ridge in which the coal is found; on surmounting this, which is steep and perhaps 400 feet high, one soon commences to descend gradually until you come to a water-course; on proceeding along this a short way you come to a precipice. The water falling over this, has cut a deep well in the limestone: the road to the bottom is precipitous and dangerous. On reaching the water-course again no signs of the well are observable, access to this is gained by subterranean pa.s.sages, of which two, now dry, exist. The scene inside is very striking; you stand on the rugged bottom of the well which is 70 or 80 feet deep, the part above corresponding to the fall, being of about the same depth; the water now escapes through a chasm below the bed of the well, the other fissures or pa.s.sages being above, and probably now rarely letting off the water. After a severe fall of rain the scene must be grand.

_November 4th_.--Nonkreem 6.5 A.M., thermometer 31 degrees: h.o.a.rfrost.

Marched hither from Surureem. Vegetation the same until you reach the Boga Panee, when Delphinium, Anemone, and Ranunculus make their appearance. On the high ridges before reaching Boga Panee, found an Astragalus; at Nonkreem, a Scrophularia. Nonkreem is a curious place, the village of no great size in a valley: the sides of the valley are covered with boulders; those at the entrance from Churra of huge size, and thrown together with great confusion. Pines at this place occur of some size, but they are distinctly limited in this direction to the granitic formation. The downs have now a.s.sumed a withered wintry appearance. Nonkreem is a great place for iron; this is found in coa.r.s.e red sandstone, or it may be fine granite, forming precipices; this is sc.r.a.ped or pushed down by iron rods, it is then washed by a stream turned off on to it: the stream is dammed up, and the irony particles by their weight fall to the bottom: they are very heavy, of a dull blackish appearance. All the streams are of a whitish colour, and the rocks are covered with Caelogyne Wallichiana.

The elevation of Nonkreem is 4,578 feet, the temperature of the air being 52 degrees. The large thermometer indicated boiling water 203 degrees: centigrade 96.5 degrees: wooden 204 degrees: small 197 degrees. In the Nonkreem jheel, Alisma, Villarsia! and Potamogeton occur.

_November 5th_.--The march to Sunea.s.sa continues over high downs, the vegetation being precisely as before, viz. Cnicus, Carduus, Prunella Pedicularis, Gaultheria, Gnaphalia, Bromoid acroideum, Tussilaginoid Andropogon, Sphacelia Daucas, Hyperic.u.m, Hedychium, Polygonum rheoides, Smithia but rare, Tradescantia clavigera, Parna.s.sia collina, Pteris aquilina, Euphorbia, Dipsacus, Salix, Osbeckia capitata, AEthionnia, Eriocaulon, Knoxia cordata, and Campanula. In short, the higher ridges have the vegetation of those between the Kala and Boga Panee, the less elevated, that of Surureem. Along the watercourses Pyrus, Betula, Corylifoliae, and Eurya.

As one approaches Sunea.s.sa the ravines become wooded, and the aspect of country more diversified. The woods consist of a Castanea, 2 oaks, Rhododendron arboreum and R. punctatum, Panax, Eurya, Thebaudiaceae variae, no less than 4 or 5 of these, one is a Gaylussacia; Saccharum megala makes its appearance at Sunea.s.sa.

This is a small straggling village, on the brow of the ravine of the same name; it is like Moflong, each house being hidden by hedges composed as usual of Buddleia, Colquhounii, Solanum spirale? Erythrina, Ficus, and Rhus. Sugarcane, but of poor quality, is here cultivated, as well as capsic.u.m, but this is also of inferior quality; the houses are worse than usual. Near this place several Nunklow plants appear, as Plectranthus caeruleus, l.a.b.i.ata foliis verticillatis of Suddya. Its elevation is 4,362 feet, the temperature being in the air, 59 degrees. Big thermometer boiling point ditto 204 degrees: wooden ditto 204 degrees: small 198 degrees: centigrade ditto 96 degrees. Pines occur here and there towards Sunea.s.sa, but of no size and no abundance.

_November 6th_.--Left Sunea.s.sa and proceeded down the ravine which is probably 1,200 to 1,500 feet deep. The scenery is very pretty, the sides being much wooded; the woods open, consisting chiefly of pines, which are of moderate size, Gordonia, Castanea, and Quercus: Mimosea occurs, also Saurauja. The gra.s.ses are as before, except that the Anthisteria of Nunklow appears, with Volkameria, Verbena Primulacae, and Osbeckia capitate, foliis lineari oblongis, floribus carneis. Towards the foot, the scenery still improves.

The woods consist of pines and a Quercus foliis castaneae cupulis echinatis, Arbor mediocris; the slopes as well as the valley are cultivated chiefly for rice, this last often a.s.suming the terrace fas.h.i.+on. The river is of considerable width, 50 to 60 yards, but of no depth: two here flow together, and at the end of the valley a still larger stream not fordable in the rains, at least where I crossed, meets it. On the streams at the base of the Sunea.s.sa acclivity, Salix, Ligustrum, Ficus frutex humelis, and a fine Indigofera occur. Moving thence along the valley the vegetation becomes tropical, although pines descend nearly to its level. Pontederia the small one of Bengal, ditto Sagittaria Vandelliae, Poae 3, Apluda, Cyperaceae, Saccharum megala, and spontaneum, Elytrophorus, Ammannia, Erianthus, Cnicus! Artemisia as before, Arundo exalum, Cirsium, Carduus! Scitamineae 2, Panic.u.m curvatum, Setaria glauca, Swertia angustifolia! Volkameriae sp., Ranunculus hirsutoideus! Zizania ciliaris.

Those marked with (!) have probably straggled down. The cultivation is chiefly of rice, Eleusine, Coix, and the edible seeded l.a.b.i.ata. Gra.s.ses abound; in addition to those above several new ones occur, Rottboellia exallata, Anthisteria of Nunklow, Arundinaceae, Andropogones several, Saccharum fusco-rub.u.m, 25 species might certainly be collected.

Fine pines occur on the other ascent from its base to apex. Here also occurs Phoenix pumile, which as well as the Rottboellia, which I think I have seen in the Mogoung valley (during the journey to Ava), and Buddleia neemda.

The ascent gained, the country appears level, covered with the usual gra.s.ses. The ravines are well wooded, but few pines occur, although they may be seen here and there. The woods appear the same as those of Churra. Panda.n.u.s sp. altera? occurs. In one ravine gathered a new Thebaudiaceae allied to T. variegata, differing in its short greenish flowers and its smoothness.

[Gradient Nonkreem to Amwee: g176.jpg]

Amwee is situated on an undulated plain or table land; the undulations are gentle, separated by marshy tracts: no steep ravines occur, the face of the undulations is covered with gra.s.ses, among which are seen most of the Churra plants, the sides are covered with fine woods with defined edges, consisting chiefly of oaks, chesnuts and Bucklandia. The aspect of the country is pretty, resembling some woodland scenery in the south of England; close to Amwee is a fine stream 40 yards wide, this winds through the valley, and on its upper part fine cascades occur. No fish are to be found besides those of Churra. The river is crossed by a stone bridge consisting of pillars of single slabs of large size, one measuring 20 feet in length by from 4 to 5 in breadth. The temperature varies from 50 to 68 during the day in an open verandah. Fogs are not so common, nor is the rain so heavy as at Churra. The s.p.a.ce being much greater, and the country more level, it would be better as a sanatarium than Churra, besides which, its access is as easy, it being reached in one day from Jynteapore. There is, however, a Toorai about Jynteapore, which is unhealthy. Its alt.i.tude is 3,500 feet, or nearly 500 below Churra.

The vegetation is nearly the same as about Churra, some new Castaneae and an Elaeocarpus occur, and Panda.n.u.s of large size in the woods.

Epiphytical Orchideae abound; Nepenthes occurs here. Alt.i.tude from three observations 3,530 feet: 1st observation 3,439: 2nd 3,597: 3rd 3,624.

_November 10th_.--Joowye: this is north from Amwee, and about 8 miles distant. Two valleys have to be descended, one rather steep. The country alters immediately after the 1st ascent, the woods nearly disappearing except in the more favoured spots. Pines soon commence. In the second valley, the stream of which is large, and of which pretty views are to be obtained, the pines reach on the south side to the bank of the stream, on the north scarcely any are to be seen. In the woods about Amwee, Eugenia is very common: noticed on the route Lonicera.

Joowye is the largest village I have seen, it is of great extent but straggling; near its entrance is a breast-work now nearly complete. The houses are of a better description than those generally met with. They are surrounded by wood, especially fine bamboos, in habit not unlike B.

baccifera. They are also surrounded by excellent timber palings. The people are different from Khasyas Proper--perhaps they are not so fine a race. Their features approach more to those of Bengallees, particularly the women, who dress their hair like those of a.s.sam, indeed the dress generally of both s.e.xes a.s.similates to that of a.s.samese, although their language seems to be Bengallee. In the wood surrounding this place curious features of vegetation occur, and beautiful lanes and pathways.

One may see a beech now naked of leaves, standing out in graceful relief close to the elegant foliage of a bamboo. Bamboos surround all the houses--sugarcane, kuchoos, mustard, hemp, Musa, Ricinus were observed.

The plants are beech, which is common and of large size. Pyrus of Moleem, Pinus rare, Marlea begonifolia! Betula corylifolia common.

Verbena chamaedrys, Rubi 3 or 4, Tetrantherae? Rubia cordifolia, Morus, Cerasus, Panax 3 species, Gleicheniae 2, Eurya, Juncus, Ranunculus, Viola, Verbesina of Moflong, Sida, Clematis _p.u.b.escens_, Caricineae, Myrica, Gordonia, Polygonum 3, among them Rheoides Engeldhaardtii common, Viburna 2, Wendlandia, Osbeckia capitata and nepalensis. The gra.s.ses chiefly Andropogons; Mussaenda, Bucklandia, Saurauja, Hiraea, Dipsacus rare, Camellia oleifolia, and C. axillaris, Begonia laciniata, Ficus, Vitis, Sonerila, Plectranthus azureus, Randia, Mephitidia, Psychotria, Galium, Clerodendrum infortunatum, Pyrus or crab, Fragaria, Potentilla, Urena lobata. The diversified nature of the vegetation, both tropical and temperate, is at once evident.

The alt.i.tude is 3,553 feet--temperature of the air 62 degrees; large thermometer boiling point 205.5 degrees: wooden ditto 206.75: centigrade ditto 96 degrees: small ditto 199.5 degrees.

The higher ground about the place is about 4,000 feet: Joowye being situated in a hollow. Viola and Peristrophe occur.

_November 11th_.--The march to Nurtung occupies about 6 hours. The country is level, or merely undulated, with no considerable descent, the steepest being that to the river on which Nurtung is situated. The vegetation continues the same, the trees except in the ravines almost exclusively pines, those on the ravines consisting of oaks, Rhododendra, Betula corylifolia, Betula moroides, Solidago, Verbena, Primulaceae, Othonna, occur; Anthistiriae, _both_ those of Nunklow are common, Rottboellia Manisuris in low valleys: here and there Phoenix pumila is common. The country just before Nurtung is uninteresting, scarcely any thing but gra.s.s being visible in some directions. Indeed it falls off on leaving Joowye.

Rhinanthus, Corolla infundibulif. subbil.a.b.i.at. lobis 2, superioribus minoribus, stam. ascendent. stigmati inclusi decurvo.

_November 12th_.--Nurtung is a large place for these hills, perhaps next in extent to Joowye, it occupies princ.i.p.ally both sides of a sufficiently sheltered hill. The lanes adjacent to the place are narrow, often very wet, and always very dirty. The gardens are enclosed with wooden palings and are screened still further by bamboos. The houses, at least the better order, are still better than even those of Joowye. The exterior is of the same construction as all Khasya houses, but the lawns and the comparative cleanliness of the front makes them look much better.

The market, which took place to-day, is outside the village and close to our bungalow: it is well attended, but the amount of persons could not exceed 100 to 200, and these form a considerable amount of all the persons capable of bearing burdens from the neighbouring villages. The luxuries exhibited are all Khasyan, consisting of stinking fish, some other things of dubious appearance and still more dubious odour, millet and the inferior grains, and the fas.h.i.+onable articles of Khasya clothing and the adjuncts to that abominable habit p.a.w.n eating. There was plenty of noise, but still order prevailed: no other rupees than the _rajah's_ were taken, and even pice were refused. Iron implements of husbandry of native manufacture were vended, in short all the various luxuries or necessaries of a Khasya are obtainable.

This place bears evidence of having been ruled over by some chief pretending to Hindooism. This is observable in the large fig trees in some of the buildings, in most of the houses in the presence of some brahmins, in the tanks, and in a sacred lake. At any rate it is attended with bad effects, and to see a Khasya attempting the formalities of a rigid Hindoo is ridiculously absurd.

It must be a wealthy place, many of the natives are well off; and I saw a _lady_ of a decidedly superior nature to the Khasya women, clad in snow white, reclining in oriental fas.h.i.+on on a platform. The _vegetation_ of this place forms a curious melange around our huts: Rhus bucki ameli, two Artimiseae, Anthistiria arundinacia, Pteris aquilina, Callicarpa _lilacina_, Eurya, Bombax, Osbeckia nepalensis and linearis, Marlea begonifolia, Pyrus, Pinus, Urticia fructibus aurantiaceus capitulatis, Polygonum rheoides, Rubi 3, Swertia angustifolia, Polygonum globuliferum, Valerianae, Cacalia, Randia, Gnaphalia nervosa, and G. revoluta, Smilax, Plectranthus azureus, Trichosanthes, Leea, Tradescantia clavigera, Geniosporum, _Butea_, Hyperic.u.m, Knoxia cordata, Rice cultivation.

Along the path to the village are to be found, Carduus, Myrica crotalaria, _Hacyoides_, Cariceneae, Panic.u.m curvatum, Arundo, Mentha verticillata, Cyperaecae usual, Zizania ciliaris, Panax, Wendlandia _Salvinia_, Isachne bigeniculata, Betula corylifolia common, Pontedera, Tetranthera, Erythrina, Celtis, Salix, Buddleia, Gordonia, Calamus abundant, Juncus, Arum macrophyllum, Cordiaceae, Urena lobata, Cynoglossum canescens, Bambusa, Verbesinea, _Lavinia_, Magnolia of Myrung, Camellia oleifolia, Gualtheria.

About the village, Porana, Musa, Verbena, Xanthophyllum, Xyris, Urtica herophylla, Sambucus, etc.

The cultivation consists of rice, millet, Soflong? pumpkins and tobacco; guavas and oranges, are also to be seen.

Daphne cannabina occurs here, as well as Loxotis obliqua, the Cardaminum, Plantago, and Martynia.

From a fresh observation and taking the mean, I find the elevation of Nurtung to be 3,302 feet.