Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries Part 30

Scleria, Lycopodia, Maesa, Sterculia Balanghas, and Kydia Jujubifolia, at 900 feet. {217a} Phlomoides, Acanthacea specicosa, Pothos pinnatus, Choulmoogrum, Malpighiacea, at 1,000 feet. {217a} Buchanania, Magnolia, Achyranthes, Murraya exotica, Sedgwickia, Urtica Gigas, Chloranthus inconspicuus, Peliosanthes, Phaenix pygmaea, Hedysarum acenaciferum, at 1,200 feet. {217a}

The alt.i.tude of the bed here is 3,112 feet (64.206.2: of Woollaston, 6.4.3) {217b} and along its banks Cissus, Woodwardia, Megala, Polygonum Rheoides, Mimosa arborea, Curculigo, Woodwardia, Andropogon fusc.u.m, Conaria, Potentilla, Rumex, Rubia cordifolia, Drymaria, and Begonia occurred.

The ascent was steep, leading over several land slips, the same vegetation continuing. Oaks, Pines, Rhododendrons occupying the more exposed faces, and the usual humid jungle characterising aspects not so much exposed. Pinus longifolia strays down to within 100 feet of the nullah. We pa.s.sed a pretty cascade discharging a considerable body of water: here at 200 feet {217a} above the nullah, I observed Crotalaria juncea, the Betula of Thumathaya, Quercus lanatus, Leea crispa, Panax terebinthaceus, Indigofera, Scutellaria, Clematis, Cana, Panax altera, Mimosa, Porana, Arundo karka, Flemingia, Conyza, Aspidium macrosomum.

At 400 feet, {217a} Itea macrophylla, Ficus, Composita arborea. The woods are dry, but little occurring underneath the trees, except the usual gra.s.ses, Andropogons and Airoides. At 500 feet, {217a} Thibaudia myrtifolia, Triumfetta mollis, Composita penduliflora, Lysimachia, Pinus, Rhododendron. The ground now became excessively rocky, the road winding along at the same elevation, not more than a foot wide.

At 600 feet, {217a} Desmodium vestilum, Artemisia, Acanthacea lurida, Gentiana, as before. Gordonia, Bambusa, Microphylla, Arum viviparum, Tussilaginoid, Wendlandia, Thibaudia, _variegatoides_, and a myrtifolia; Sedum, rocks strewn in every direction covered with Sedum and epiphylical orchideae.

On rounding a ridge with a north-east aspect we came without altering our elevation, on a humid jungle. Pothos pinnatus and red, Ferns, Acanthaceae, Choripetalum, Calamus, Acrostichea, Blakea, Grammitis decurrens, Moschosma. We descended through similar jungle with Panda.n.u.s also occurring until we again changed our aspect, when the oak woods, etc. reverted with Rhododendron and Thibaudia myrtifolia; again changing, we returned to an intermediate jungle, gradually a.s.suming all the humid characters of those places pa.s.sed before. Here I observed Tupistra, Asplenium nidus, at 200 feet above the bed of a nullah. Rottleria, Mimosa arborea, Crawfurdia, Speciosa, Zanthoxzlon triphyllum.

Along the bed of this nullah, Crawfurdia speciosa, Potentilla, Choripetalum, Eurya, Ranunculus, Cardamina, Juncus! Oxyspora, Saurauja hispida, occurred; some in a sort of marsh, with Thibaudia variegatoides.

The places along which torrents formerly flowed were occupied by Typha elephantina, Kujara, Megala, Arunda, the Alnus of Bhailseeree, Artemisia major, Rubus deltoidifolia, (Corysanthera hispida with Juncus;) here Anthistiria arundinacea, Artemisia minor, Bucco grandis (Bird), Polygonum rheoides, Baehmeria torrentum, Gaultheria deflexa, Indigofera, Oaks, Gordonia, Holcus elegans, Conaria nepalensis in flower, and Erythrina occurred along the bed, up which we proceeded about a mile.

We then ascended among Pines and Oaks, Callicarpa arborea, and others, ascending up the humid ravines, which in the rains give exit to torrents--at 300 feet noticed a different Pinus, which is observed in abundance on a mountain on the opposite side, up which it ascends 2 or 3,000 feet.

Callicarpa azurea, Buddleia Neemda, Eugenia, Serissoides, and the Saccharum of Churra, occurred here.

The ascent was continual but gradual, rounding the almost precipitous face of the hill, the path was stony, often loose and frequently not above a foot wide, with a precipice lowering above and yawning beneath.

The vegetation had, with the exception of the Pines, Oaks, and Rhododendrons, all been burnt, so that the ascent was uninteresting. As we neared the summit it became bitterly cold, a strong biting wind nearly cutting us in two: we reached Bailfa, which is on the summit but sheltered, at 6 P.M.

Conaria occurs at the top! being more advanced in flower than below; in one instance with young capsules. I noticed Pogonatherum, Didymocarpus contortus, Serissoides, Gaultheria fruticosa, Polytrichum fusc.u.m, gathered at 7,000 feet, previously: at 1,200-1,500 feet above the nullah, Indigofera reaches the top. In a sheltered place here I found a beautiful Gaultheria; a small Campanula occurs on the rocks at from 1,000 feet upwards.

BAILFA or _Bulphai_.--This place is 6,808 feet above the level of the sea, yet on the east and south are mountains towering far above it. Snow is said to fall in February, but sparingly--the hills around are bleak, thinly vegetated, except those on the south of the Geerea, which are more wooded. There are only a few houses. Turnips and barley are cultivated here, and in these fields may be found a Cruciferous annual, and probably a small species of Lamium. The chief cultivation is visible in the valleys below. Buckwheat is among the number.

_January 29th_.--To-day I sallied out a few hundred yards to the west, on turning over the ridge, the south side of which is so bleak, thinly covered with Q. lanata and Rhododendrons, I found myself in a thick shady jungle, the chief tree being a species of oak, widely different from Q.

lanata. The trees and shrubs are loaded with mosses, especially pendulous Neckerae, Daltoniae, Hypne; Hookeria, Fissidens, etc. occurred on the ground. I imagine, I gathered twenty-five species of mosses here.

Ferns were likewise abundant; I noticed Daphne papyracea, Berberis asiatica, Conyza nivea, Smilax ruscoides, OEschynanthus venosus, Hedera, Ophiopogon linearis, O. latifolius, Cymbidium viridiflorium, Ardisia crenata, Carex, Piper! Clematis, Gordonia, Spiraea decomposita, Composita volkamerifolia, Cissus, Smilax, Bambusa microphylla, Viburna, as before.

Gaylussacia serrata and microphylla, the former in fruit. Thibaudia lanceolata, buxifolia, Gaultheria of yesterday.

On the exposed face Santalacea, Gentiana, Hyperic.u.m decussatum of Moflong, Leucas ciliata, Ischaemum pygmaeum, on Rhododendron, Loranthus obovatus. The mosses of this side were Brachymenium, Tortula, Famaria, Trichostomum, Neckerae, Polytrichum fusc.u.m, ZyG.o.don? Dendrobium and Otochilus, occur here. A stray and small Abies occurs on the ridge itself.

About the village of Bailfa, occur Urtica urens, Artemisia major, Saccharum aristatum, Rubus triphyllus, Senecio scandens, Rumex, Chickweed, Stemodia ruderailis, Lactucoidea murorum, Carduus, Phlomoides, Rubus deltoidifolies, Achyranthoid, densa.

_January 30th_.--Thermometer at 7 A.M. 40 degrees. The houses here are roofed with split bamboos, and they are tied on by rattans, a precaution rendered necessary by the boisterous winds which prevail. The place is very cold; the thermometer varying from 40 degrees to 52 degrees; mean temperature of the day 46 degrees.

In the barley fields I noticed Fumariae sp., Potentilla and Cynoglossum.

Erythrina ascends to this! Pyrus Malus and Spiraea bella occur.

_January 31st_.--Our march this day commenced with an ascent of a ridge lying to the north-east of our halting place, this occupied us some time, and at last we reached a paG.o.da, visible from Bailfa, and which is nearly 1,000 feet above that place. Thence we descended about a hundred feet, through a well-wooded situation. Emerging thence at about the same elevation, we crossed barren bleak downs; the ravines being alone wooded, and hence the woods had that rounded, defined appearance, so remarkable in some parts of the Khasya hills.

Thence the descent was continued to Roongdong, the march is an easy one, about seven miles.

The first new plant that occurred was an Allium on rocks, but it had been dried up by the fires which had bared the surface of the hill of every thing, except the trees and stouter shrubs, capable of resisting its action.

Toward the paG.o.da, on the summit of the ridge, Pendulous lichens were abundant, Epiphytes were common, consisting chiefly of Orchideae, with the 2 Gay Lussacias, Rhododendron punctata, Hymenopogon parasiticus, Orthodon, Tussilaginoid, Alnus occurred at 7,300 feet. The other vegetation continued.

At 7,400 feet, a new Quercus appeared, this, which has in its young state, leaves much like those of the Holly, and may therefore be called Q. _elicifolia_! Andropogon, Viburnum caerulium, Neckera, Bambusa microphylla, Fragaria, Potentilla, Conyza nivea, Scabiosa Spiraea decomposita, Gillenioides, Smilax ruscoideus, Hyperica of Moflong, Campanula, Swertia, Dipsacus.

At 7,500 feet, Epilobium, Rosa, Vaccinium cyaneum! Rhododendron coccineum, Tetranthera.

At 7,800 feet, Abies pendulifolia, Hemiphragma.

At the paG.o.da, and about it, Grimmia was found on rocks, with the usual pendulous Neckerae, Q. ilecifolia, Vibura, Hyperic.u.m.

Abies Brunoniana, a large solitary tree, with pendulous branches, Tetranthera, Laurineae, Smilax gaultherifolia, Ilex, on the wooded side of the ridge. Ferns and mosses were abundant, Ilex! Daphne papyracea.

Eurya, Panax rhododendrifolia, Rhododendron arborea, minus et majus. The tree of Thumathaya foliis ad apicem ramorum aggregatis, petiolis colorat., Celastrinea Euryifolia, Tetranthera another species without leaves. In the more moist places a small Urticeae, Lonicera as before, on the exposed side stunted Q. ilecifolia, Dipsacus, Gnaphalia, Vaccinium cyaneum, and Gramineae, Hemiphragma, Potentilla, Campanula, Tussilaginoides. Long tailed grey monkeys.

The ridge we crossed, runs up into a bleak ridge on which are houses, and which cannot be under 9,500 feet high, about the descent through the wood, which did not extend many hundred yards. I noticed Galium, Valeriana, Crawfurdia fasciculata, Sphaeropteris Betula corylifolia, Hyperic.u.m, Spiraea gillenioides, Rubus cordifolius, Senecio scandens, Juncus effusoideus, in wet places, Rhododendron majus, coming into flower, (flower white) Cerastium bacciferum, arborea, canescens, Cissus, Rubus molucca.n.u.s, Elaeagnus, Rubus potentillifolia, Plantago, Ligustrum, Berberis pinnata and asiatica, which last is generally covered with lichens.

Xanthoxylum, Lilium giganteum! Polytrichium fuscescens, Trichostomum anielangioides, Pohlia, on walls and rocks, Adoxa! in wet places under banks, with a fleshy Urticea: about this was observed the brick-red and black bird. {221}

Along the naked ridge and on the downs, which had a most wintry appearance, and where it was bitterly cold, the Lycopodium of Surureem was found, also Vaccinium cyaneum, Gnaphalium, Pteris aquelina stunted, Hyperic.u.m of Moflong, Swertia stunted, Hemiphragma.

The defined woods are formed of oaks and stray Abies pendulifolia, Panax rhododendrifolia, Berberis asiatica, and B. pinnata.

Mespilus microphyllus, Rhododendron minus, and R. arborea, (Euphorbia, and Juncus on the swards.) Eurya, Gaultheria arborea, Stauntonia. From this ridge a village near Benka is visible, as well as a large stream, the Goomrea, and several villages. The one we now inhabit, being the best looking and occupying a deep valley, is surrounded with much terrace cultivation.

Descending still farther we left the downs, first coming into the scraggy woods of Oaks, Rhododendron, Quercus, chiefly Q. robur. About here we met abundance of people going to Hazoo from Kampo; they were accompanied with a.s.ses chiefly carrying burdens of one maund weight; few goats; one yak was seen of a black colour; a low compact animal, much resembling, except in the absence of a hump, the bison: it was not a handsome specimen. We also pa.s.sed a village to the left, containing about twenty houses, here a Nai gooroo, or person of rank, resides, and here I also got fruit-bearing specimens of Abies pendula.

Noticed, as I descended, Pyrus, Cerasus, Magnoliacea, Gaultheria arborea and frutex, Pteris aquelina, Quercus sclerophylla of Bulphai, Viburnum caerulescens and angustifola! Rhododendron minus, Ilex! Aspid. nidus, Gordonia, Q. lanata, Woodwardia, Rubia albiflora, Gleichenia major, Pyrus indica. Then we came to a pretty temple built like a house, with a fine specimen of Cypress pendula, alt.i.tude of the place 7,000 feet. From this a fine view of Roondong is obtained.

Still descending a short distance came to another temple, with a dome of the ordinary form, and a large square terraced bas.e.m.e.nt, and inscribed slabs in the recesses. Hence the ascent was very steep. Erythrinum, Buddleia! Indigofera! Spiraea bella, Artemisia major! Polygonum rheoides!

Rubus deltoidens! Curculigo, Conaria nepalensis, Thalictrum majus!

Asparagus, Jubrung! Oxalis corniculata, Clematis cana, Eurya ferruginea!

Santalacea australas, Pyrus malus! Elaeocarpus! Maesa salicifolia. We then crossed a small torrent, and ascended about 100 feet to Roongdong; noticed Stemodia grandiflora! Spiraea bella, Conaria, Erythrium, Elaeagnus spinosus, Salix? buds with velvet or woolly hairs, Martynia! Hedera!

Citrus! Woodwardia.

The transitions of the flora were this day well shewn. The plants which indicated the greatest elevation are, Vaccinium, Abies Brunoniana, Saxifraga, or Adoxa, Q. ilecifolia, Rhododendron formosum, R. arboreum majus, Sphaeropteris, Ilex, Eurya ac.u.minata? Panax rhododendrofol., Berb.

pinnata and B. asiatica, Mespilus, Microphylla, Juncus.

The occurrence of the Urticea at such elevation is curious, the proofs of the wonderful effects of humidity, and non-exposure were particularly shewn, between the exposed south face of the Bulphai mountain, and the north-east face which was wooded.

From scarcity of gra.s.s, horses were here seen to feed on boughs so high as to be obliged to stand on stones, to get at their food. They are likewise fed on maize and tares; the poultry is of a large brood. The c.o.c.ks are atrociously noisy, two in particular had such lengthened, cracked or quavering voices, that they were quite a nuisance. We put up in the house of the Dumpa or head man. It is situated on the top of a stony, and a bitter cold place, exposed to the four winds of heaven.

House very large, and our host a little man with great airs, and a red coat or wrapper of coa.r.s.e English cloth, drinks intensely.

During our stay at this place he invited Pemberton and Blake to shoot pigeons; the poor man thought that they would not be able to hit them, on finding out his mistake, he put an end to the sport.

Atriplex is cultivated here, Mooreesa of a.s.sam, Hempstee of the Booteas, though seeds are used as well as the leaves.

The loads of salt brought down by the Tibetans on a.s.ses are packed up neatly in coa.r.s.e cloths, and weigh upwards of forty seers each.

[Gradient Bulphai to Roongdong: g224.jpg]

_February 1st_.--Our march commenced by descending gradually at first, then very rapidly to the Dimree nuddee: crossing this at the junction of two streams, we ascended a little and then kept along the side of the ridge forming the right bank of the nuddee, until we came over the Mona.s.s: thence proceeding about one and a half mile, we reached Ta.s.sgong or Benka which is situated on this river, and about 1,000 feet above it.

This we crossed by a suspension bridge.