Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries Part 31

But little interesting botany occurred to-day: Chenopodium sp. occurs in fields at Roongdong. The terrace cultivation here had just yielded a crop of rice, and was now planted with wheat. Agriculture would appear to be at a low ebb, and if the country is populous, the people must be half-starved.

Water was abundant throughout the route: the Mona.s.s is a large stream, but not generally very deep, although from its rapidity it must discharge even at this season a great body of water. Composita penduliflora descends to the Dimree, the alt.i.tude of which is about 3,000 feet, so in fact did most of the plants found about Roongdong. Pyrus continues half- way, Rhododendron to the bottom. Hovenia at an alt.i.tude of 5,000 feet, Randia--as also Tetranthera oleosa, and a new Flemingia.

At 4,900 feet, _Jubrung_ occurs.--Clematis Cana, Luculiae sp., Conyzoidea nivea, Kydia calycina, Mimosa arborea, began at 4,800 feet: Gaultheria, arborea, Gordonia, descend to the bottom: Crawfurdia speciosa, Oxyspora, Aspidium, Macrostomium, and Polypodioides, Saurauja hispida, Hyperic.u.m, Spiraea bella, Gillenioinis, Quercus, Rubus, and Viburnum caerulescens. A tree yielding lac, which had lately been cut, and Meliaceae, Rhus triphyllum. Hence some snow was visible on a lofty ridge above our heads, at least 9,500 feet, the snow descending a considerable way down ravines. Of birds, Bulbuls and Bucco, were here observed.

At --- feet, Leguminosa arborea, Loranthus Scurrula, Kydia Wendlandia, Celtis, Osbeckia nepalensis, a Vitex, Grislea, Pteris aquilina, Indigofera! Acanthacea caerulea.

At --- feet, Triumfetta mollis, Composita arborea, Pterospermum, fructibus 10-valvibus, valvis lobatibus, Sem. alatis. Santalacea australasica, here a large shrub.

At the nullah, Fici sp., Saccharum Megala, Verbenacia? foliis apice craso lobatis. On the opposite side, Pinus longifolia, to within 200 feet of the nullah, Phlebochiton extensus! Solanum farinaceum! Achyranthes densa!

a Plumbaginacea which is a Paederioid Rubiacea, and another Ficus, Hastingsia, Ba.s.sia, l.a.b.i.ata Sudyensis, Grislea, very common, Emblica, Ficus obliquus were found along the road, after crossing the nullah. The ridge of the mountain was rocky, barren, covered chiefly with gra.s.ses, the Butea of Nurtung, Artemisia minor, Umbelliferae, Desmodium vestilum, Kalanchoe, also occurred. At the few houses below our path, we saw plantains! and bamboos as well as mangoes! The terraces here are fronted with stones: Lemna occurred in water; Linaria on rocks; Conaria and a fleshy Euphorbia, this last, about villages.

The occurrence of plantains and mangoes here is curious, and a sure sign of mild climate, as Kalanchoe is of dryness; nothing could well exceed the barrenness of the road, from crossing Dumria to Benka.

Benka is a straggling place, built on a ridge overhanging the Mona.s.s, and on exceedingly rugged ground, the north face of the ridge being nearly equally steep; the southern face, contains about fifty houses, all of which are small and a few in ruins. The only large house is the Rajah's, which is said to be of Chinese construction.

This day the Rajah paid us a visit; a tent was pitched for his reception on the open ground before our house, consisting of a small silken pall, with two high silken parti-coloured kunnauts. He arrived about eleven, preceded and succeeded by followers amounting to less than a hundred. On reaching the ground, he was carried or shuffled off his horse and deposited in the tent amid most terrific screechings. He took an immense time to arrange for our admission. We found him seated on a shabby throne, with a head priest, a coa.r.s.e looking man, on his right, on a less elevated seat. Bra.s.s cups, etc. were arranged before him. Our chairs occupied the left; a present of fruits, onions, etc., the floor. The meeting was friendly, and he promised us coolies in two days. He is a youngish man with a square face, and was well dressed.

After we had taken leave, he feasted his attendants and the spectators with salt-fish and rice. He departed about 2 P.M. The procession was as follows, both going and returning--

A large, black, s.h.a.ggy dog led by a chain.

A drum and drummer; a gong with a melodious sound; a clarionet played by an old and accomplished musician, rivalling in its strains that beautiful instrument the bagpipe; a man bearing a wooden painted slab on a pole, on this was an inscription; a banner looking like a composition of rags; a white flaglet; fifteen matchlockmen; fifteen bowmen; the Dompa of Roongdong; five horses and one mule led.

The household; Natchees; guitar; sundries. Personal attendants, looking like yeomen of the guard in red cloth dresses, variegated with yellow; the Rajah wearing a Chinese copper hat.

Lastly, the priests, of whom there were about six.

These were the best clothed and best mounted, and evinced satisfactory tokens of being corporeally well off. Their dress consisted of a sombre jacket with no sleeves, with either a yellow or red silk back, over this is a sombre scarf. They are great beggars, and the headman was well pleased with a present of four rupees. In return, he gave P. two, B. and myself each one paper of salt, similar to those given to the lookers-on.

The ponies were all poor, excepting two or three of the Rajah's own, which were handsomely equipped; these had their tails raised on end, exactly like hobby-horses. In addition to this, each was supplied with supernumerary yak tails, one on either side.

The whole people collected did not amount to more than 300. The arms, at least were wretched, consisted of culverins, which went off with an enormous report, and matchlocks with short rests, like the end of a pitchfork. The bows were long and good. The helmets were worn on the head when going and coming, but were allowed to sling on the back while resting here; they are rude iron things, like bowls, but covered for some way up the sides with cloth in a most unbecoming way. Dirt and noise were predominant; the dancing women, evidently not what they should be, had clean faces, but horridly dirty feet, and were very plain. The dancing was poor, consisting chiefly of ungraceful motions of the hands and forearms; the singing pleasing, harmonious but monotonous.

A peculiar kind of spirit called _Chonghoons_ is in great requisition: this liquor is pleasant, perfectly clear like whiskey and water, with a small matter of malt in it.

Fumaria is found here much more advanced than that at Bulphai, Drymaria ovata. They cultivate one sort of Legume, perhaps more; mangoes, jacks and pomegranates; all these trees bear fruit towards the end of the hot weather. A young mango tree was observed with opposite leaves, uppermost pair one abortive nearly: thus the Mariam of Burma, may probably present the normal form of foliation. _Adoee_ fish {227} found in the Mona.s.s.

Bheirs, papia, tobacco, banyan, of these last, poor specimens may be seen here. The place is miserably poor, and as it is reckoned one of some importance, its condition shows the barrenness of the country. The Rajah's house is a large one, apparently consisting of a quadrangle with an elevated story. News arrived yesterday to the effect that tumults still prevailed: the Deb it was said had been deposed by treachery: that a new one had been permanently appointed: but that the usurper did not wish us to come on. Tongsa, however, said that after we have come so far, we should advance, and that we may settle our plans at his place.

_February 5th_.--Left: descended immediately from the town to the bridge over the Mona.s.s. The descent is steep but winding, the face of the hill being nearly precipitous. Close to the river we pa.s.sed a small field of Caja.n.u.s, used for feeding the lac insect. The bridge is a suspension one, the chains, one on either side, being of iron in square links; the curve is considerable, in the form of the letter V, the sides being of mat. Hence it is difficult to cross, and this is increased by the bridge swinging about considerably: it is seventy yards in span, and about thirty above the Mona.s.s.

The Mona.s.s is 1,300 feet below Benka, it is a large river, the banks being about eighty yards apart, but this s.p.a.ce is not generally filled with water. Its violence is extreme.

We continued along this river some time, gradually rising from its bed until we ascended nearly 1,000 feet. We continued at this elevation until we reached Nulka, to which place we descended a little. The whole march was through a barren, rocky, burnt-up country. The Mona.s.s was in sight nearly the whole distance. Pa.s.sed two villages, both small, one on the right and one on the left bank of the river. No change in vegetation occurred except that we came upon pines, P. longifolia about a mile and a half from Nulka, coming into flower. I am almost inclined to think this is different from the Khasya species, Kurrimia, Indigofera pulchra, Desmodium, Buddleia sp., were the only plants of a novel nature that occurred. The hills are chiefly clothed with Andropogoneous gra.s.ses, very little cultivation was observed, but there seemed to be more on high hills to the east.

[Gradient Benka to Nulka: g229.jpg]

CHAPTER XII.

_Continuation of the journey in Bootan_.

The following table affords the result of observations made with the view to determine the relation between temperature and alt.i.tude, in these parts.

Difference of Difference of Value in height of Temperature Elevation 1 degrees of Temperature

Benka and Mona.s.s, 13 degrees Fahr. 1,222 feet 94 feet

Benka and Nulka, 4 = 406 = 01-5/10

Benka and Khumna, 13 = 1,110 = 85-5

Khumna and Nulka, 16 = 1,516 = 89-3

Mona.s.s and Nulka, 9 = 816 = 90-6

Mona.s.s and Khumna, 26 = 2,332 = 89-9 ---------- 6)550-8 ---------- Mean value of 1 degrees of Fahr. as indicated on the barometer 91-8

Second series of observation

Benka and Mona.s.s, 13 degrees Fahr.1,193-4 feet 91-8 feet

Benka and Nulka, 4 = 367-2 = 91-8

Benka and Khumna, 13 = 1,178-1 = 90-6

Khumna and Nulka, 17 = 1,557-0 = 91-10

Mona.s.s and Nulka, 9 = 826-2 = 91-8

Mona.s.s and Khumna, 26 = 2,386-8 = 91-8 ---------- 6)549-8 ---------- 91-6

The Mona.s.s is called Goongree by the Booteas; its bed is very much inclined, and tranquil pools are of rare occurrence: it is not fordable in any place, although many of the rapids are not very deep. The singular bridge is said to be of Chinese construction, and that it serves the purpose of a chief thoroughfare, is a proof of the extremely small population of the country.

Onions grow at Nulka, plantains, sugarcane, tobacco.

Bheirs are common. Weeping cypress occurs, but stunted.

The entrance to this village on the north-side, is through a square building, the ceiling of which is painted, and the walls decorated with figures of deities, white and red.

[Koollong Bridge: p230.jpg]

_February 6th_.--We descended immediately to the Mona.s.s, keeping along its banks throughout the greater part of the march; rising however, over one or two spurs that dip into it.

This river varies a good deal in width, its bed, however, is generally confined, and the stream fierce; occasionally, however it spreads out and becomes here and there more placid. We continued along its banks, crossing one or two small streams until 12 o'clock, when we reached a large torrent, the Koollong, up which we proceeded three or four hundred yards, but at some height above its bed. We crossed this by a wooden bridge of similar construction with that over the Deo Panee, and the idea of which is ingenious. It is nearly fifty yards wide, and about twenty above the torrent. It is in a bad state, and unprovided with railings throughout the central level part. The houses into which the inclined supporting beams are fixed are strong, and built on rock. The fastenings are altogether of cane, and the whole presenting the appearance given in the annexed drawing.