Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries Part 32

Hence we ascended a black, rocky, burnt-up mountain until we reached Khumna, the ascent amounted to nearly 2,000 feet, and occupied more than an hour.

But little of interest occurred, in fact I never saw a more barren country. We pa.s.sed a small village of two or three houses, and two good patches of rice cultivation, one just below Nulka, one at Ghoomkhume, the small village just alluded to.

Pinus longifolia descends nearly to the bed of the Mona.s.s, which below Nulka is about 2,200 feet above the level of the sea. Along this I noticed Hiraea, Eugenia, Vitis, Jasminum, Paederia foetida, Ficus, Loranthus, Scurrula, Desmodium, Aerides, Vanda, Flacourtia, Kalanchoe, Leguminosa, _Vanillidora of Solani mookh_, Ceanothus, Bergera, Dischidia bengalensis, Leguminous trees, Euphorbia, Ba.s.sia, Cheilanthes of Brahmakoond common, Coccoloba cyanea. In rice khets at Ghoomkurrah, I found Lemna, Cardamine, Rumex of Khejumpa, Cirsium decurrens, Gnaphalia, Datura, Simool in flowers; Spathoidea, Oxalis coriculata, Cannabis, Verbesina.

I observed water-ouzels, bucco, water-wagtails, bulbuls, ordinary and yellow-rumped.

[Gradient Nulka to Khumna: g232.jpg]

Pa.s.sed cotton cultivation in two places, one close to the Mona.s.s, and one to the Koollong, both equally bad, and observed Begonia edule, which they call Sheemptsee, and which they eat.

The road to-day was generally good, overhanging in one place the Mona.s.s at a height of forty yards above, and below scarped precipices. The road here was constructed or supported artificially. Distance six miles.

_February 7th_.--To Phoollong. Left at 9.5 A.M., and immediately commenced ascending. The ascent was at first steep, then gradually wound round the Khumna mountain, which was most barren throughout. The ascent continued but very gradually until we came near Phoollong, to which we descended, and then ascended about 1,000 feet. About half-way, and when we had ascended perhaps 1,000 feet, we came on new vegetation, oaks, Rhododendra, etc. as before, and this continued improving in denseness until we reached the village. The distance is five miles, ascent about 1,500 feet, but so gradual, that one would not imagine it more than 800 feet. At Khumna, I noticed Pinus longifolia, Pyrus malus, Achyranthes dense, Cirrus, Urtica urens, tobacco, Musa, Datura, Artemisia major. Hogs are fed here in large circular platters made of stone scooped out.

Commencing the ascent, I observed Ficus cordata of Bhamru, Rhus pendula, Indigofera _elatior_, Conaria, Pteris aquilina, Cerasus commenced at 5,000 feet. Then Desmodium vestilum, Artemisia minor, Conyza laculia, Rubus deltifolius, l.a.b.i.ata Sudyensis, Acanth. caerulescens.

Quercus robur commenced at about 5,200 feet, but stunted Flemingia secunda, then Gaultheria arborea, Gnaphalium nivea.

Here there was a high ridge to the right, crowned with a wood of Q.

robur, all the leaves of which had fallen. Myrica, Rhododendron, Jubrung, Didymocarpus contortus on rocks, Cnicus, Clematis cana, Polygonum rheoides. At a village here, which contained ten houses, observed Cupressus pendula, Citrus, wheat, Bambusa, then Juncus. Primula of the Khasya hills. Q. robur abundant, Composita penduliflora, Saurauja hispida, Equisetum, Rubus caesius, Alnus of Thumathaya, Elaeagnus spinosus, E. macrophyllus 5,300 feet: Plantago, Coriaria, Erythrina, Rhus acidum, Cerastium coenum, Dipsacus, Viburnum microphyllum, Rubia cordifolia, Barleria, Tetranthera oleosa, Hedera, Gentiana, Myrsine, Blasia, Fleshy urticea, Q. robur, Gordonia, Adamia, Neckera jungermannoides and laeta, Primula in abundance, Acorus, Calamus, Scirpus kysoor of Churra, Gram. latifolia, Andropogonoides of Sunia.s.sa.

Coming on a well-wooded ravine close to Phoollong, the first I have seen since leaving Balphai, found Quercus 2, Castanea, Gordonia, Spiraea decomposita, and S. Bella, Hydrangea, Rhododendron, Thalictrum, Quercus, Curculigo, Viburnum caerulescens, Indigofera elatior, Gnaphalium niveum, Sempervivum on rocks, Panic.u.m eleusinoides, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Swertia major, Alnus as before, Rubus molucca.n.u.s, Salix lanata, Primula Simsii, Phlomoides, Orthodon.

Throughout the march we observed many detached houses on the mountains forming the right bank of the Koollong, and much cultivation, all of the terrace sort. Pa.s.sed one village beneath us about 700 feet, containing twelve houses, and the one mentioned above; as usual, ruined houses occur.

Cattle furnished with litters of leaves; a curious low was heard, like that of an elephant.

Booteas work their own cotton, much of which is cultivated along the rivers at low elevations.

Higher land, certainly 11 to 12,000 feet high, was visible to the north side: on this a good deal of snow was visible.

[Gradient Khumna to Phoollong: g235.jpg}

_February 8th_.--Towards the morning it commenced to rain; snow has fallen on both sides the Koollong: it has fallen on the road we came by yesterday, and on the hills above to within 200 feet of us, or in some places to the level of this. Exemption in favour of this place is to be attributed to local causes. The trees in the neighbourhood are completely covered with it, and it is said to have fallen here twice during the night,

The Bootea houses are ill calculated for rain, they leak all around as indeed might be expected, from the nature of the roofs, which consist of boards, kept _in situ_ by stones. It would be curious to ascertain the temperature under which snow does not fall, and if possible the temperature here and among the snow. In the morning, sleet with a few flakes of snow fell also, but only occasionally.

Snow continued to fall throughout the day, and steadily too: it commenced slightly: as the cold increased it ceased to melt on reaching the ground, and at length all around was a sheet of white. The variations of the thermometer were considerable and frequent, the wind blowing pretty steadily from the south-east.

At 10 A.M. 37 degrees Snow commencing.

At 10.5 A.M. 36 degrees South-east wind.

At 10.75 A.M.40 degrees Wind from the north, snow rather heavy.

At 11.75 A.M.37 degrees South-east.

At 12 Noon 35 degrees ditto.

At 12.5 P.M. 36 degrees ditto.

At 2.5 P.M. 37 degrees ditto.

At 4 P.M. 39 degrees ditto.

At 6 P.M. 37 degrees ditto.

At 9 P.M. 38 degrees ditto.

Fine moonlight night. View to the north beautiful; every thing silvered with snow; the deep and black ravine of the Koollong is particularly conspicuous, and on some cultivated spots the pendulous cypress with its sombre head and branches covered with snow, was also remarkable, altogether a beautiful scene. Larch-like firs were visible 500 feet over the road leading to this from Khumna.

_February 9th_.--Fine sunny morning: thermometer at 7 A.M. 35 degrees: at 8 A.M. 42 degrees. Hills around covered with snow. High ridge to south plainly visible, a good deal of snow visible. Went out at noon over to the south-east, in which direction a pine wood was visible; this I ascertained to consist of Pinus or Abies pendula, which has much the habit of a Larch. The alt.i.tude of this above Phoollong is certainly 1,000 feet; snow covered the ground in all sheltered spots. The woods here are formed chiefly of Q. robur, Q. ilecifolia also occurs here and there, Gordonia, Cerasus, Rhododendron minus.

Mosses and Jungermanniae abound, and were in high perfection owing to being saturated with moisture. Polytrichum, Neckera, Brachymenium, Dicranum, Weissiae, Fissidens, Hypnum, Didymodon, Diastoma, Orthodon, were found in perfection. The only new plants were a Campanula and a Chimaphila, which last was found at 7,000 feet. Berberis asiatica scarcely occurs below 6,000 feet, Hedera. The birds seen were the jay, barbet, red-and-black-headed, variegated short-wing, large ditto of Khegumpa, orange-breasted Trochilus, brown Fringilla, green woodp.e.c.k.e.r, black pheasant, and small squirrel of a.s.sam was also found.

From the fir wood, Ta.s.sya.s.see was distinctly visible, bearing nearly due south, distance 10 or 12 miles. Koollong was also seen: all the high ground between that and Bulphai was covered with snow. The high range to the south is, I think, the same as that which runs up behind from the paG.o.da above Bulphai.

A few plants of the a.s.sam Indigo, Ruellia indigofera, are kept here, and preserved with care, but stunted and obviously unsuited to the climate.

Montario, our taxidermist, says that it is the fourth plant he knows from which indigo is procured. First, Indigofera--Second, the custard apple, _shereefa_--Third, a climbing plant used in Java, etc. probably Marsdenia tinctoria--Fourth,--?

_February 10th_.--Fine weather: thermometer at 7 A.M. 40 degrees.

Started at 9 A.M., and reached Ta.s.sya.s.see at 3 P.M.; the distance being nine miles. We continued throughout nearly at the same elevation, rounding the hill on which Koollong is placed. About three miles from this we descended about 500 feet to a nullah, which we crossed over by means of planks, thence we ascended about the same height, and continued at nearly our former level until we descended to the Koollong, which we crossed by the usual form of wooden bridge. Thence we ascended 400 feet to the village, which is chiefly const.i.tuted by the Rajah's house, a very large edifice. The Koollong is still a considerable stream, but appears to be fordable, at least in the present season.

The vegetation continued the same almost throughout. In ascending from the nullah above mentioned, we came on plenty of Pinus longifolia, and on getting still nearer Ta.s.sya.s.see the Abies pendula became more and more common, until it forms on the opposite bank of the Koollong opposite this, a large wood; Pinus longifolia disappearing. The hills continue openly wooded, the woods consisting of oaks, chiefly Q. robur and Rhododendrons. In the ravines which are thickly wooded, oaks, chesnuts, Cerasus, Rhododendron arborea, mosses; Panax two or three species, among which is a new one, _P_. _aesculifolia_, arbor parva armati, foliis 7 digitatis, paniculis nutantibus. Hydrangea, Viburnum caerulescens, and Microphyllum, Galium, Ferns abundant, Bucklandia likewise occurred here and there! Tetranthera, Valeriana, Scabiosa, Conaria, Holcus elegans.

In the broken ground before reaching this, Gaultheria nummularifolia, Primula minor, in crevices of rocks. In some places Erythrina was very common, Gentiana, Dipsacus, Sedum and Didymocarpus contortus on rocks, Saccharum aristatum, Salix lanata, Woodwardia, Primula minor, which grows in shade on the Khasya hills, is found here in sunny wet places. The scenery in some places is very romantic, and occasionally grand; the valley of the Koollong being closed far to the north by a high ridge and beautiful peaks, all heavily snowed. The Rajah's house is visible from a considerable distance. As we approached, some parts were rugged and bold. Water abundant throughout.

[Gradient Phoollong to Ta.s.sangsee: g239.jpg]

_February 11th_.--Went out at 1 P.M.; descending to, and crossed the Koollong, then ascending along its banks for about a mile.

The bridge over this is about thirty yards wide, ab.u.t.ting from two houses of ordinary structure, built on solid rocks: the river is underneath the bridge apparently of great depth; above it is a succession of rapids, it is even at this, the driest season, a considerable river. The path leads in a winding direction either over rice cultivation or on precipitous banks. I noticed Berberis asiatica, pinnata, a Pomacea spinosa, foliis spathulatis, Stauntonia latifolia, Hedera, Gaultheria two or three, Thebaudiaceae, Artemisia major, Erythrina, Primula Stuartii in abundance, Juncus, Alnus, Myrsina, Prunella in gra.s.sy spots, Rumex of Khegumpa, Daphne papyracae, Peperomia quadrifolium, Spiraea bella, Viola, Ophiopogon linearifol., Hyperic.u.m, Smilax, Elaeagnus, Conaria, Lonicera villosa, Epilobium sericeum, a common plant in all watery places, Cardamina Swertia, Viburnum microphyllum. Rhododendrum arborea and minor, Leucas ciliata, Thistles, Pteris aquilina, Neckerae, Osbeckia capitata of Churra, Oaks, Catharinea, Xyris, Gordonia, Fragaria, Potentilla two, Festucoidea, Cupressus pendula.

The greatest acquisitions were a beautiful pink farinaceous ascapous Primula, and a new genus of Hamamelideae. This plant I have long known, and called _Betula corylifolia_, as I had only seen it in fruit, and not examined it; it is found on the Khasya hills at elevations of between 4,000 and 6,000 feet. It will be worth dedicating it to some distinguished geologist, thereby a.s.sociating his name with that of Bucklandia and Sedgwickii.

No fly-fis.h.i.+ng is to be had in this stream, nor indeed in any at such elevations. The Adoee is found, but always keeps at the bottom, the structure of its mouth pointing out its grovelling habits. The Bookhar does not, I think, ascend more than 2,500 feet. Water-ouzels, white-fronted Sylvia occur. Observed for the first time the religious vertical revolving cylinders, these revolve by the action of water, which runs on the cogs of the wheel by means of hollowed out trunks of trees.

Flour mills are common here, the grindstone revolves on another by means of vertical spokes, which are set in motion by a horizontal wheel, and moved by a stream let on it in the same way.

Funaria heygrometrina abounds in the larch wood here.

This is a very cold place, although 550 feet below Phoollong: it is much colder than that place: thermometer at 7 A.M. 34 degrees.

Snow still remains on the height around; heavy snow on the lofty ridge to the north; strong south-east winds prevail here.

[Ta.s.sgong from the Koollong: p241.jpg]

_February 12th_.--Ta.s.sya.s.sy, which is also called Ta.s.sangsee, is a small place apparently consisting of one large house, belonging to the Soobah, and some religious edifices, the other houses belonging to it are scattered about among the adjoining cultivation. The Soobah we have just learnt is absent at Tongsa, so we have no opportunity of comparing his rank with that of the Ta.s.sgong man. His house is however, much larger; it is situated on a promontory formed by the debouching of a considerable sized torrent into the Koollong. The bridge is at the foot of this hill, which is about 400 feet high: the house is accessible to the north and west only. Half-way up a high hill to the north-west is a fort! and between the foot of this hill and the Rajah's house there is a wall with a tower at the north-west end, and a house at the south-east. In the afternoon the weather threatened snow, but it ended in very slight rain.

_February 13th_.--Thermometer at 7 A.M. 33 degrees: at 9 P.M. 31 degrees: cloudy. Observed Conyza nivea, Composita penduliflora, Agrimonia, Stemodia grandiflora, a species of Alopecurus in inundated rice fields, Fragaria, in the wood, Arenaria, Gymnostomum on the terraces. An Arabis in cornfields with a Viola, probably V. patrinia, Gaultheria deflexa and Gerardia of Churra. The fir woods are comparatively bare of mosses and lichens. Shot an Alauda, a Fringilla, and a curious climber with the tail of a woodp.e.c.k.e.r, at least so far as regards the pointing of the feathers, plumage of Yunx, and beak of Certhia.

Fine cypresses were seen opposite Ta.s.sangsee.

_February 14th_.--Left Ta.s.sangsee, diverging from the Koollong at that place, and following the nullah, which falls into that river below the Soobah's house. The march was a generally, continued, gradual ascent; we crossed two considerable streams by means of rude wooden bridges, and the whole march was a wet splashy one, owing to the abundance of water. Snow became plentiful towards the latter end. The direction was west, the distance about seven miles. We pa.s.sed two or three deserted villages.

We commenced ascending through woods of stunted oaks, Rhododendrons, Gaultheria arborea. The chief under-shrubs being Daphne papyracae, Gaultheria fruticosa, Primula Stuartii, Lycopodium of Surureem, Thibaudia myrtifolia continue, the Alnus of Beesa occurred plentifully along the bed of the nullah. Spiraea decomposita, Valeriana simplicifolia, Conaria, Scabiosa, Fragaria, Potentilla, Geranium, Artemisia major, Spiraea bella, Hedera, Viburnum caerulescens, Q. robur, Crawfurdia speciosa also occurred.

Ascending, the oaks and Rhododendrons became more developed the latter being the smaller species, Bambusa microphylla, Gordonia, Sph.o.e.ropteris, Antrophyum trichomanes, Oxalis major! commenced. Larches on the opposite side, Saccharum aristatum, Gillenioides, Gleichenia major, Hemiphragma, Abies Brunonis commence.