Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries Part 45

The wind inclining to be hot, but it is cool up to 7.5 or 8 A.M.

Alaudo cristata? and an Alauda with the form of Sylvia.

_Sunday_, _21st_.--Proceeded to Killa Pootoollah, a distance of ten miles. The road was good over an open, dry, level country, but intersected with small cuts: some cultivation was pa.s.sed, but no villages. Some little improvement was observed close to the Garrah hills, which are of the usual description, and of no great height: a curious slip of the strata exhibited itself, in which the upper strata are cut away in the centre as if there had been a watercourse there.

Vegetation continues the same. The Thymelaeous shrub and Iris, still occur in sandy spots, Allium and a second species; Centaureoides, yellow and pink, Thesioides, a curious sand-binding gra.s.s, Salsola tertia most common, and in some open firm places _Joussa_ reappears as it did at Dund- i-Golai: Anthemis occurs, Rheas, Salvioides in stony places, otherwise few of the plants of the Pisheen side are seen; grapes abundant about old and new cultivation, Hordeum, Bromus several species, Triticoides, etc., in profusion. Pa.s.sed a deep well of considerable diameter, which had an open communication with a widish and deep ca.n.a.l, the only place I have seen that would hold a good deal of water; it was cut throughout in s.h.i.+ngle, and was perhaps fifty feet in its deepest part.

_22nd_.--Left Pootoollah for Mailmandah, and on our arrival found some of the troops and the cavalry had pa.s.sed through and made a double march to the river Lora, a distance in all of twenty-four miles. There is a good deal of pure water at Mailmandah running in a cut by the side of that, which is in the rains a considerable stream, also one or two _Kabreezes_ about two miles further on, producing excellent water. The road first led up a ravine of some width, and swardy, and then over low hills, until we surmounted these to descend into the valley in which part of the army halted. The country continues mostly the same; although if possible it is still more barren than before: the mountains generally are more rugged: the ridges frequently toothed, and the sides precipitous; not a tree to be seen except a willow near some water, and a small arbusculoid fig. After pa.s.sing the halting place we re-ascended an inclined plane, entered a gorge, and again issued out of it: after a short time again we entered into another valley drained by an actual river, _really_ _containing water_, and bounded to the west and north-west by curious red low hills, not unlike an embankment. The vegetation continues much the same: Salsola tertia very common in some sandy places, Centaurea spinosa, Statice, Santonia, etc. re-a.s.suming their places on all gravelly slopes: some novelties occurred as (See Catalogue, Nos. 543 to 574 inclusive,) one or two new shrubs, Cytisus, etc. The heat continues great; 102 degrees Fahr. in tents in the middle of the day. We encamped on a flat ground about 200 yards from the river, which contains a good deal of water, and has a sluggish stream running to the north, surrounded by mountains, none of any height. Wheat cultivation, Arundo, Vitex, Prunus or Cerasus abundant in the pa.s.s to the river, and yet the former does not indicate water as it ought to do, Lycium, Tamarisk, Arundo on the banks of the river, and Tamarisk in profusion in its bed.

The cultivation on the opposite side of the river is remarkably clear of weeds, as compared with the cultivation at Quettah, etc. Achilleoides, Veronica, Iris crocifolia, Phalaris, Chenopodium, Rottboellioides, Hordeum vulgare, being the only or the chief plants cultivated.

Proceeded next to Dai Hap, thirteen miles, over a similar but even more barren country, the hills being dest.i.tute of all vegetation, except a few stunted small shrubs, such as Statice. The usual plants recur with s.h.i.+ngle and in sand, the chief is a _Santonica_, {349} a few novelties occurred, among which is a curious plant, with large vesiculate petaloid connectiva. See Catalogue, No. 576, et sequent.

The hills continue with toothed ridges, near Dai Hap, where water is abundant, but not in the form of a river. Thymelaea occurs in abundance, with a Mimosea fruticosa humilis: a curious hairy-fruited Polygonum et Peganum, is among the most common plants.

_25th_.--To Khoshab, distance twelve miles, over a large level plain, either sandy, and then generally cultivated, or gravelly, and then uncultivated: road open: pa.s.sed two dry beds of rivers: one must be of large size, but is very shallow. A new Tamarisk occurs along it; no trees are visible until we approach Candahar: vegetation continues much the same. _Santonica_, (see above) Centaurea spinosa, Astragalina (Ononoides recurs), Staticoid, Asphodelus, Mesembryanthoid, Peganum, are the chief plants, especially on gravel; most of the small Cruciferae have disappeared, l.a.b.i.ata-Salvioides continues; a curious subaphyllous Composita occurs, Iris persica is not uncommon; another Iris is found here and there in profusion, with Gnidia in sandy spots, Compositae, Monocotyledons of Abigoon are common in s.h.i.+ngle. New rock pigeons. Fine madder cultivation in _khets_. Of birds the yellow hammer occurs.

Villages numerous, poor, and though built of mud and straw yet present abundance of small domes.

In these dry hot plains the prevailing wind is westerly, blowing very strong in the heat of the day, and having a tendency to become hot: the thermometer is here 98 degrees. The cultivation of wheat is very general around our present encampment which is within four miles of Candahar, the wheat is fine; Lolioides occurs in it.

_26th_.--Halted: Candahar is hid from us by some low hills, on the surmounting of which a large straggling place is obscurely visible, interspersed with trees, the valley is much smaller than that in which we are now, which is very extensive. Munjit cultivation is conducted by deep trenches, it is a different species I think from that of the Himalayas. The bed of the Turnuk is now dry and very shallow: and the hills near us are extremely barren, the chief vegetation being Paederioides vestila and Staticoides cymosa, Cheiranthus continues. The vegetation is very poor as indeed it has been since leaving the Khojeb Amrah, nor is there any appearance to be seen of a better autumnal vegetation.

Candahar is visible at a distance of six miles, from some low hills to the north of our camp.

_27th_.--Moved to Candahar, skirting the low hills just mentioned and pa.s.sed through two villages, a mile from Candahar in a fine open plain.

Candahar has rather a pleasing aspect; it is situated close to a picturesque range of hills, and is well diversified with trees, barley and wheat fields. The slope on which the town stands is a parallelogram; towers occur frequently along the wall, which is however, of mud, and not strong; it is surrounded by a ditch utterly insignificant on account of its narrowness and shelving banks, this ditch is crossed by an insignificant causeway. The gate at which I entered is oblique, and is defended by a tower: it leads into the main street which is rather wide and not very dirty: towards the centre of this you pa.s.s under a middling dome, a street branching off to the right and left; the continuation of the main street or bazar leads to the _topekhanah_, or artillery ground, a small s.p.a.ce quite disorderly, containing eight or ten guns, most of them melted at the mouth; one Sheik 18-pounder of cast iron, another of English make, 140 years old. From the end of this s.p.a.ce you pa.s.s over another similar ditch into the fort, the entrance to which is covered, affording two or three angles capable of good hand to hand defence.

Pa.s.sing thence through some s.p.a.ces occupied by low buildings, you reach Khoondil Khan's house, an extremely rude looking place outside, but very different within. It consists of two houses, one looking into a small square with a delicious reservoir of water, and some fine and very green mulberry trees; the ground being laid out as a garden with sweet-william, etc.; the water is supplied by a small cut, and is seven or eight feet deep. The garden fronts of both houses are prettily ornamented, one has a _tharkhanah_, delightfully cool; generally the rooms are small, coated with a pretty sort of stucco. The remaining sides of the square are occupied by offices; small rooms opening into the garden by lattice work evidently denote a portion of the _zenana_. Altogether the Khan must be a man of taste.

The bazars of the city are well thronged, but the shops are by no means equal to those of Buhawulpoor, and the manufactures, except those of earthenware, are utterly insignificant.

Tobacco, _atta_, _musallahs_, dried fruits, _aloo-bokhara_, figs, apricots, raisins, salt, sugar, a green fruit something between a plum and greengage, meat, onions, salads, _dhie_, _sherbets_, _kubabs_, wicker- work, singing birds, are offered for sale: also abundance of Lucerne and some _bhoosee_. Altogether it is a busy place, but not so busy as the road near the gate, which is thronged by followers, and dismounted Europeans, who are forbidden access to the city without a pa.s.s. Tea from Khiva of good quality is procurable in small quant.i.ties. No women but old ones to be seen. The dress of the inhabitants very often, and in some cases very completely, approximates to that of the Chinese. The features too of most are evidently of Tartar cast, and some wear two tails of plaited hair. Blue seems to be a favourite colour of dress.

The chief trees about the city are mulberry, a few _Khunjucks_, which is the Xanthoxylon of Bootan and the Kojhlak pa.s.ses, occur outside; willows are frequent, and generally appear to be cultivated, among these a weeping species here and there occurs.

_May 3rd_.--The resources of the city are evidently small, the only things indeed that appear plentiful are earthenware and milk: grain is excessively dear, but is reported to exist in considerable quant.i.ties.

Khoondil Khan having ordered all those out of the city, who had not provided themselves with six months' provisions. _Atta_ or flour is now selling at two seers a rupee, or 6d per pound, and every thing is proportionally dear: wood excessively so, the chief fuel is derived from the _Santonia_, which in some form or other appears to const.i.tute a princ.i.p.al feature of the vegetation of Central Asia, and there is some other wood apparently derived from some tree I have not yet seen.

Some discontent prevails in the town owing to the high price of provisions, which is, no doubt, severely felt. The established price of grain is at the rate of eight seers the rupee, a rate established by the king, but on occasions like the present there can be no rule. Water is very abundant, it is to be found within four feet of the surface, and some regiments have already supplied themselves from this source by means of temporary wells. The water is excellent.

a.s.ses, ponies, and horses are common, the former are excellent, 150 rupees is a good price for one; they carry heavy loads with the additional weight of an Affghan on their back; the ponies or tattoes are less valuable, but still they are strong.

The horses are indifferent; good, generally speaking, but heavy, and with little spirit. Excellent milch cows have been procured for twenty-five rupees, including the calf. Goats are not easily procurable. Sheep (_Doombas_) are common, and afford excellent mutton, they vary in price from two to three rupees.

Tea from Bokhara is procurable in small quant.i.ties; its quality is decent: it was originally eight rupees a seer but is now thirty. Coa.r.s.e Russian cloths, and very inferior silks are also procurable.

The great drawbacks are the want of wood, and above all want of inhabitants; from what I have seen of the cultivation, the soil appears to be very capable, and well adapted to barley and wheat; rice might also be raised as a summer crop. With regard to water, if there is a scarcity of this element, it is due to the indolence of the people. I have not yet seen any vestiges of buildings, topes, etc. to indicate that Candahar has ever been a very populous place, the want of trees considering the ease with which they may be cultivated, is a strong evidence of the extreme laziness of the Affghans, who appear to me remarkably low in the scale of civilization; and in personal habits, very generally inexpressibly filthy.

Poplars, mulberries, and willows are the princ.i.p.al trees: the poplar is very much akin to the _Sofaida_ of the Sutledge, it is a handsome tree, with a fine roundish crown. The fruit trees generally appear small in gardens; lettuces and onions are commonly cultivated, especially the latter, fields of Lucerne are very abundant, and I believe clover also; a pony load of the former now costs five annas, but it is sufficient for a day's consumption of two or three horses. The pomegranate attains the ordinary size. In gardens two or three Ranunculaceae, Jasminum, pinks, sweet-williams, marigolds, stocks, and wall-flowers, are common, with a broad-leaved species of flag, the flowers of which I have not seen.

The crops vary according to the mode in which they have been watered; if this has been properly done, they are rich. Some of the fields are tolerably clean, others filled with weeds, among which a Dipsacea, and one or two Centaureae are very common.

The villages are not generally defended: each house has its own straggling direction, is built of mud, and the roof is generally dome- shaped, and it has its own enclosure within a mud-wall. The houses are very low, and indicate poverty, and want of ingenuity. The better order appear always with arched roofs, and none are without picturesque ribs and recesses.

The vineries here are so well enclosed, that there is no way of access except by scaling the mud-wall: the vines are planted in trenches; a row on each side, and allowed to run over the elevated s.p.a.ces between the trenches. In one garden pomegranates, a pomaceous tree, and mulberries, whose fruit is now ripe but quite devoid of flavour, occurred. A Zygophyllum, a beautiful Capparis, an Anthemis, Marrubium, Centaureoides 2, occurred as weeds, with Plantago, Phalaris, Cichorium.

For an excellent register of the thermometer at this place, I am indebted to the kindness of Dr. Henderson; the range in the open air is from 60 degrees to 110 degrees!!!

The variations in the wet bulb are due to the currents of air, which beginning about 11 A.M., pa.s.s into a rather constant strongish west wind about 11.5 or 2 P.M., and even almost become hot. The climate is excessively dry, as indicated by the effects it has on furniture, etc.

The difference of temperature between a tent, even with two flies or double roof, and the open air in free situations, is by no means great; thus when the thermometer was 105 degrees in part of my tent, it was scarcely 110 degrees in the sun; in Capt. Thomson's large tent 102 degrees; placed against the outer _kunnat_, it rose to 105 degrees.

Hanging free with black cloth round the bulb, 112 degrees. But to shew the great heating powers of the sun, the thermometer with the bulb, placed on the ground and covered with the loose sand of the surface of the soil, rose to 141 degrees.

Black partridges occur in the cornfields here, but in no great numbers.

Much of the cultivation of barley, wheat, and rye, is very luxuriant, but the proportion of waste, to cultivated land is too considerable to argue either a large population or active agricultural habits. Pastor roseus occurs in flocks; it is evidently nearly allied to the _mina_. The capabilities of this valley are considerable, more particularly when the extreme readiness with which water is obtained in wells is considered, as well as the nature of the soil, which is well adapted to husbandry.

Candahar, viewed from about a mile to the west of our camp, backed by the picturesque hills (one bluff one in particular), the numbers and verdure of the trees, the break in the mountains on the Herat road, presents a pretty scene.

_8th_.--The installation of the Shah, which took place to-day on the plain to the north of the city, was a spectacle worth seeing on account of the grand display of troops; but there were very few of the inhabitants of Candahar or surrounding villages present. Mulberries and apricots are now ripening. Rats, a Viverra with a long body and short legs, tawny with brown patches, face broad, blackish-brown, white band across the forehead, and white margins to the ears which are large; storks were seen when alarmed. Pastor roseus occurs in flocks; magpies, swallows, swifts, and starlings. There is a garden with some religious buildings, to which an avenue of young trees leads in a north-east direction from one of the Cabul gates, for there are two on this face.

The buildings are not remarkable; nor are the trees, which are small; a few planes (Plata.n.u.s) occur, the most common is the _Benowsh_, a species of ash, (Fraxinus) of no great size or beauty. The elegant palmate leaved Pomacea likewise occurs, with the mulberry: the marigold is a great favourite.

The fields are now ripening, this being the harvest-moon. Wild oats occur commonly, although they are not made any use of; the seed is large, and ripens sooner than any of the others; from the size of the uncultivated specimens, I am sure that oats would form an excellent crop.

In the fields Cichorium is very common, and Carduacea, Centaurea cyanea, Dipsaceae, and in certain low places an Arundo, are the most common weeds; two or three Silenaceae, and Umbelliferae also occur. In the ditches Typha, Butomus, watercresses, Alomioides, Ceratophyllum, Lemna _gibba_? Confervae, Gramineae two or three, Ranunculus, Potamogeton, one species immersa; Mentha, Sium.

On the _Chummuns_, which are of no extent, but which are pleasing from their verdure and soft sward chiefly consisting of Carex, Trifolium, Juncus rigidus, Santalacea, and Gentiana likewise prevail.

The fields of Lucerne are luxuriant, but require much water, the price of which is very dear; one a.s.s-load costs eight annas!!

Iris crocifolia is common in old cultivations.

The city is situated at the termination of one of the s.h.i.+ngly slopes, which are universal between the bases of the hills, and the cultivated portion of the valley. The ditch is hence s.h.i.+ngly, whereas an equal depth in the cultivated parts would meet nothing but a sandy, light, easily pulverizable brownish-yellow soil, tenacious, and very slippery when wet. The tobacco crop is excellent.

CHAPTER XV.

_Candahar to Cabul_.

The good old _Moolla_ of a mosque, to which we resort daily, gives me the following information about the vegetable products of this country, from which it would seem, that every thing not producing food, is looked upon with contempt. The fruit trees, are--

1. _Sha-aloo_, _Aloo-bookhara_, (damson), which has ripe fruit in August, the same time as figs; _Zurd-aloo_, (apricot), _Aloocha_--apricot, _Shuft-aloo_, another kind of apricot; _Unar_, (pomegranate); _Ungoor_, (grapes); _Unjeer_, (guava); _Bihee_, (figs); _Umroot_, _Toot_, (mulberry); _Aloogoordaigoo_, _Shuft-aloo_, all these _Aloos_ being Pomaceous.

The Elaeagnus is called Sinjit: it produces a small red fruit, used in medicine as an astringent, it ripens in August, and sells at eight or nine seers the rupee; it is exported in small quant.i.ties; but the plant is not much esteemed.

The _Munjit_ is an article of much consequence; it is exported chiefly to China and Bombay, some goes to Persia; the roots are occasionally dug up after two years, but the better practise is to allow them five to seven: the price is six Hindostanee maunds for a rupee. The herb is used for camel fodder. The Affghan name is _Dlwurrung_.

The common Artemisia of this place is called _Turk_; the camels are not so fond of it, as they were of the Sinab and Quettah sort; perhaps this is due to their preferring Joussa, which is found in abundance.

The carrot is called _Zurduk_; it is dug in the cold months, and sown in July; three seers are sold for a pice: both men and cattle use it.