Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries Part 46

_Turbooj_, (watermelon,) ripens in June; it is not watered after springing up; four seers are sold for a pice. But I have not seen much of this fruit.

The wheat is watered according to the quality of the soil, the better the soil the less water is required, and this varies from four to eight repet.i.tions of water. _Jhow_ requires two waterings less. Wheat is considered dear if less than one maund is sold for the rupee. One year ago, three maunds of barley, and four of wheat were sold for a rupee.

Iris odora, _Soosumbur_; (the two kinds, and _Datura_ has the same name) is indigenous.

The timber trees, or rather trees not producing fruit, and which the _Moolla_ thinks very lightly of, are the _Chenar_, (plane), _Pudda_, (Poplar?), Baid, _Sofaida_.

The fig trees are often planted in rows, they are very umbrageous, and look very healthy. These, and the mulberry, are the most common; next are the bullace and damson. Neither are worth introducing to India, nor have I seen any thing yet in the country that is so.

It is certainly the interest of the inhabitants to keep the army here as long as our commissariat places so many rupees in their hands. It may indeed be questionable whether with an overpowering army, the rates paid for grain and other supplies for the troops should not be established by authority rather than advancing money for grain at exorbitant rates, when the crops are entirely within the command of foraging parties. _Atta_ now sells at two and three-quarter seers the rupee, a mere nominal fall, for the dealers will only give fifteen annas for a Company's rupee.

There is a curious _hazy_ appearance of the atmosphere over the city in the evening, occasioned by fine dusty particles from cattle, suspended in air; which, from their fineness, are long in subsiding.

This curious hazy weather increases daily, yesterday evening was very cloudy, and this morning the wind rather strong and southerly up to 8 A.M.: and at 5.5 P.M. the sun is either quite obscured, or the light so diminished, that the eye rests without inconvenience on his image. In the morning the wind strengthens as the sun attains height and power.

The old _Moolla_ says that this weather commences in Khora.s.san with the setting in of the periodical rains in the north-western provinces of India, and continues with them. From the direction of the wind it is probably connected with the commencement of the south-west monsoon at Bombay, for the rains at Delhi do not commence before June.

The haze is so strong at times that hills within three to five miles are quite obscured; it tends to diminish the temperature considerably, especially between seven and eight of a morning; curious gusts of hot winds are observed, even when the general nature of the wind is cool.

_21st_.--A fine and clear cold morning; thermometer 56 degrees at 7 A.M.

in the tent. Air fresh; thermometer 75 degrees at 9 P.M. A few drops of rain at 12; _cloudy generally_.

_22nd_.--Thermometer 48 degrees at 5 A.M. Similar weather, clear and elastic: south winds continue but of less strength.

Easterly wind prevails in the morning up to 9 A.M., after which hour the westerly hot wind, variable in strength, sets in: the range of the thermometer is then somewhat increased, although in the house it does not rise above 90 degrees.

The _Moolla_ tells me, that snow is of rare occurrence at Candahar; he mentions one fall in about four or five years. The rains last for three months, and happen in winter. During the winter all occupations out of doors are suspended, and people wrap themselves up, and sit over fires.

Clouds are of very rare occurrence, and then only partial.

The clouds, if resulting from the south-west monsoon, ought to be intercepted by the Paropamisus and Hindoo Koosh, and rain ought to fall along these and about Ghuznee at this time. In the evening a cool wind sets in, indicating a fall of rain somewhere.

Rarity of dews in Khora.s.san: as dews depend on a certain amount of moisture either in the soil or atmosphere, it follows that in a very dry climate no dews will occur. The occurrence of the dews here at this period, is another proof that rain must have fallen somewhere (to the southward), to which the coolness of the weather is attributable.

Yesterday and to-day, the thermometer at 5 A.M. stood at 48 degrees, 49 degrees; at 8 P.M. 75 degrees, 72 degrees, the daily range in the mosque is from 70 degrees to 80 degrees. Capt. Thomson suggests that the dews observed here are either confined to, or much greater in the _Chummuns_, in which the water is very close to the surface, as indicated _inter_ _alia_ by the green turf.

The kinds of grapes are numerous; those earliest ripe are the black, and a small red kind called _Roucha_; which will be ripe in the latter end of this moon. _Kismiss_ another sort, comes in July. The _Tahibee_ is the best kind produced here, and the dearest.

Tobacco is cultivated chiefly along the Arghandab; it is planted about this season, and gathered in two or three months, and requires to be watered ten or twelve times.

The barley is now fully ripe, and is generally cut and thrashed in some places. Pears in gardens are now ripe.

Candahar valley is of great extent to the westward, or south-west and SSW.

The wasps, with large femora, I observe build their mud nests in houses.

The rarity of Lepidoptera, except perhaps some nocturnal moths, is curious; Coleoptera are more common, but inconspicuous. Ants are abundant in the mud walls. A small gnat with large noiseless wings, is very annoying, and the bite very painful and irritating. Doves, and wild pigeons are tolerably common, as also crested larks, and swifts.

Abundance of lizards; a venomous snake of brown colour, having an abruptly attenuated tail.

Every thing that happens shows how credulous, and how unenquiring we are; and in all cases out of our particular sphere, how extremely apt most are to give excessive credit, where a moderate only is due. It is a generous failing which it is difficult to condemn, particularly with regard to our travellers in this direction. Instance Connolly, and certainly Gerard whose acquaintance with Burnes and its results demands attention. It is singular that his name scarcely occurs in Burnes' book, although his scientific knowledge and MSS. submitted to Government, ent.i.tle him to be considered an observant, and well-informed traveller. Pottinger is another instance of what I have said above.

The general opinion is, and it is one which I have not discarded entirely, that he threw himself into Herat, that he was throughout the siege daily employed in the front of the garrison, and that it is owing to his personal exertions that Herat was saved. I hear however on good authority that he was at Herat accidentally, and wished to leave it when the besiegers appeared, but was prevented by want of funds. So anxious was he however to get away, as his leave of absence had expired, that he was obliged to discover himself to Yar Mahommed, and request loans to enable him to rejoin India. The Vizier at once secured him, took him to Kamran, and hindered him from leaving, forcing him indeed to the dangerous elevation of British Agent at Herat. His merits, if this be true, rest on very different grounds from those generally supposed; his courage however has been proved of a high moral cast.

The _Joussa_, the _Moolla_ tells me, is the _Kan Shootur_ or _Shootur_ _Kan_. Burnes' account of the _Turunjbeen_ or manna is correct, except perhaps in the limits he a.s.signs to its production. It is at any rate produced here and sold in the bazar, its production while the plant is in flower is curious, and worthy of examination; it may however be deposited by an insect, in which case the probable period of its production would be that of inflorescence.

There is some cultivation of Indian corn here, the plants have now attained one-third of their growth.

Except in the immediate vicinity of the town, nothing can exceed the sterility of the valley, or rather its desolation: scarcely a plant, beyond the Peganum and _Joussa_, is to be found.

_Khaisee_, an excellent smooth skinned apricot, is now ripe, and is of light yellowish colour, sometimes faintly spotted; it is a product from grafts, the seeds are useless, as they do not continue the good qualities of the fruit: it is here grafted on _zurd-aloo_, _thulk_, Potentilla quinquefolia.

Melons and grapes are now coming in; the former, at least those I have seen, have pale pulp, and are not superior. The grapes first ripe are the ordinary black sort: we tasted yesterday some very good ones in the _Moolla's_ garden. The _Kismiss_ are especially delicate, and another large sort of very fine rich flavour, both were rather unripe. Those for packing are still unripe. The trenches in this garden are very deep: the vines are planted on the northern face only.

Gardens are very common to the south-west of the town. The valley of the Arghandab is the most fertile part of Khora.s.san I have yet seen. A strip of cultivation extends along the banks of the river, and from these last not being high, the stream is easily diverted into channels for irrigation. Seen from any of the neighbouring hills, the valley presents one uniform belt of verdure, almost as far as the eye can reach, and the view up and down is of some extent. The chief cultivation is wheat, barley, and lucerne; _Chummuns_ also occur. Gardens abound, together with fine groves of mulberry trees, the former are walled in, and are verdant to a degree.

There is a bluff mountain to the north of Candahar, the disintegration of which is so rapid, that it is evident from the slope of the debris, it will in time bury the original structures.

The hills forming the ridge separating Arghandab from Candahar, as well as all those rugged looking ones about Candahar, are of limestone, they are much worn by the weather, and full of holes. They are very barren, the only shrubby vegetation of any size being Ficus, which may be the stock of the _Ungoor_, as it resembles it a good deal, Centaurea spinosa, Paederiae 2, Echinops, Pommereulla, one to two, other Graminae, lemon- gra.s.s, Dianthus, Peganum, Cheiranthus as before, Sedum rosaceum, Gnaphalium, _Hyoceyamus_, _Didymocarpeae_, Gnidia, etc.

The Arghandab is a good sized river, with channel subdivided: its stream is rapid and fordable; no large boulders occur in its bed; the temperature of its water is moderate.

The fish are a Cyprinus and a Barbus, or Oreinus with small scales, thick leathery mouth, and cirrhi; a Loach of largish size, flat head, reddish, with conspicuous brownish mottlings, and a Silurus.

The hills forming the northern boundary of the valley are picturesque, and of several series, and perhaps the subordinate valleys are not so large and fruitful in this direction.

Between Arghandab and Candahar, two ranges occur; one interrupted: the other nearer Candahar has first to be surmounted at a low pa.s.s; the pa.s.s is short, rugged and impa.s.sable for guns. The inner ridge is much closer to the cultivated part of the valley than the northern range.

Between it and the Arghandab, at least six cuts occur: these are met with generally in threes, and are at different elevations; the inner one being close at the foot of the hills; great labour must have been required to make them. Numerous villages, some with flat roofed houses occur.

Arundo, Salsola, Plantago, P. coronopoid, Cnicus, Juncus, Veronica exallata, Santalacea, Mentha, Lactucoides, Chenopod. 2-3, Panic.u.m, Samolus, Ceratophyllum; Salix occurs near the river; apricots, apples, pomegranates, damsons or plums, bullaces, pears, mulberries and raspberries in the gardens.

The s.h.i.+ngle found about all the hills in Khora.s.san, can scarcely be derived from any source but disintegration, it slopes too gradually and uniformly for upheavement. If my idea is correct, the mountains will at some period be buried in their own debris, of course inspection of the s.h.i.+ngle will at once point out whether this is true or not, more especially _in all those places where the rocks are of_ _uniform structure_. There is a curious desert to the south and southwest of Candahar, elevated a good deal above the valley, quite bare, and stretching a long way to the westward: it is seen for forty miles along the Girishk road.

_Curious reflection_.--Observed in ghee used as lamp-oil, a bubble ascending from the surface of the water on which it floated, met by another descending; the deception of this is perfect. That it is due to reflection, is apparent from the variation of the length of the descent, according to the angle under which it is viewed. When viewed from beneath at a very oblique angle, the descent is complete, but if viewed parallel to the surface, no appearance of the sort occurs. The reflection is due to the surface of the ghee which appears to be more dense than the rest, probably more oily; this mathematical reflection may suggest others of a moral nature, touching our liability to mistaken views of things, from observing only one side.

Old Candahar is about three miles to west of the new town; it is immediately under a steep limestone range, running about southwest, and not exceeding 500 feet in height. It bears marks of having been fortified, and at either extremity remains of forts are still visible.

The fort of forty steps is at the north end of the range. The town is in complete ruins; indeed none of the edifices are visible except those that occupy the mound of stones, (with which they are partly built) probably the site of the citadel. On three sides, the town is fenced by two respectable ditches, the outer one about 50 yards wide; both are now, especially the outer, beds of marshes; they were supplied by cuts from the Arghandab river. Wells exist however. There is one white mosque in good preservation. The works were strong, and much better than the very indifferent ones of new Candahar; and the walls of the town were prolonged up the face of the hills.

About Candahar, conical houses occur, probably for granaries. A curious mosque cut out of the rock in situ, is seen on the Girishk road, with a flight of steps leading to it, cut in like manner out of the rock. There is also in the same quarter the fort of Chuhulzeenat, or forty steps; a work not of very considerable extent; and as in other Asiatic countries I have visited, troughs are cut in rocks for separating grain from the husk. But there is no work to be seen indicating vast labour or any genius.

Some remains of good pottery may be picked up; and the earth of which the works, etc. were made, is filled with remains of coa.r.s.e pottery.

_27th_.--Moved four miles to Shorundab, the country is very barren: not much _Joussa_: the water is brackish at our present encampment, which is within sight of Babawallee.

_28th_.--Proceeded to Kileeyazim, ten and a quarter miles, marched at 2 P.M. and reached the place at 6 P.M., the camels arriving one hour afterwards: the ground is generally good, throughout stony, difficult in places and undulated, particularly in two situations occasioned from cuts. There is a square fort, situated at the halting place with a tower at each corner, and on north face two; as well as towers at the gate: but without windows. _Joussa_ is abundant, as also gra.s.s along the cuts.

Salsola rotundifolia, a Chenopodia, and a curious p.r.i.c.kly, leafless Composita and _Joussa_ occur, the latter most common, Artemisiae sp. Also rock pigeons and the raven. Halted one mile to the east of the fort.

_29th_.--Proceeded to the Turnuk, near Khet-i-Ahkoond, distance fifteen and a half miles. The country continues the same, no cultivation to be seen before reaching the Turnuk. The road tolerable, over gravelly or s.h.i.+ngly ground: it was at first level, until we reached a mountain gorge, when it became undulated. Pa.s.sed the dry beds of two streams, the second the larger: its banks were clothed with Vitex instead of Tamarisk. At the entrance of gorge a fort similar to that of yesterday was pa.s.sed.

Scarcely any change in vegetation. Artemisiae one or two, Centaurea spinosa, Salsola cordifolia and aphylla? are the most common plants, Euonymus and Malpighiacea? Polygonoides, occurred along the nullah, a pretty species of the plant, Antheris globosis petaloideo-terminalis, in profusion in some places, literally colouring the ground: close to it another very distinct species, foliis connatis, floribus albis, a Rubiaceous crystalline looking plant, another novelty; all the plants about the hills at Candahar continue: Dianthoid, Statice, Paederia villosa. Cultivation along the Turnuk, melons in small trenches, the crops are now cut, _Jhow_ or _gaz_ along the bank: but there is not much water. The hills around are apparently of limestone, very picturesque, and presenting very fine cliffs. The valley of the Turnuk is here very narrow, and the country very arid looking, completely burnt up. _Joussa_ rather scarce, _doob_ gra.s.s occurs along the river, the water of which is discoloured.