On Food And Cooking Part 31

Tra.s.si (shrimp)

Malaysia Belacan (shrimp) Belacan (shrimp) Budu (anchovy) Budu (anchovy)

Kecap ikan (other fish)

Country

Sour-Fermented (carbohydrate source) Sour-Fermented (carbohydrate source)

Thailand

Plaa-som (cooked rice) Plaa-som (cooked rice)

Plaa-raa (roasted rice)

Plaa-chao (fermented rice)

Plaa-mum (papaya, galangal)

Khem-bak-nad (pineapple)

Vietnam

Korea

Sikhae (millet, malt, chilli, garlic) Sikhae (millet, malt, chilli, garlic)

j.a.pan

Narezus.h.i.+ (cooked rice) Narezus.h.i.+ (cooked rice)

Kasuzuke (cooked rice, sake wine sediments)

Philippines

Burong isda (cooked rice) Burong isda (cooked rice)

Indonesia

Bekasam (roasted rice) Bekasam (roasted rice)

Maka.s.sar (rice fermented with red-pigmented yeast)

Malaysia

Pekasam (roasted rice, tamarind) Pekasam (roasted rice, tamarind)

Cincaluk (shrimp, cooked rice)

Asian Mixtures of Rice and Fish Of the many Asian fermentations that mix fish and grains, one of the most influential has been the j.a.panese Of the many Asian fermentations that mix fish and grains, one of the most influential has been the j.a.panese narezus.h.i.+, narezus.h.i.+, the original form of modern sus.h.i.+ (p. 207). The best-known version is the original form of modern sus.h.i.+ (p. 207). The best-known version is funa-zus.h.i.+, funa-zus.h.i.+, made with rice and goldfish carp ( made with rice and goldfish carp (Cara.s.sius auratus) from Lake Biwa, north of Kyoto. Various bacteria consume the rice carbohydrates and produce a range of organic acids that protect against spoilage, soften the head and backbone, and contribute to the characteristic tart and rich flavor, which has vinegary, b.u.t.tery, and cheesy notes. In modern sus.h.i.+, made with pristinely fresh raw fish, the tartness of narezus.h.i.+ narezus.h.i.+ survives through the addition of vinegar to the rice. survives through the addition of vinegar to the rice.

Scandinavian Buried Fish: Gravlax According to food ethnologist Astri Riddervold, Scandinavian fermented fishes - the original According to food ethnologist Astri Riddervold, Scandinavian fermented fishes - the original gravlax, gravlax, Swedish Swedish surlax surlax and and sursild, sursild, Norwegian Norwegian rakefisk rakefisk and and rakrret rakrret - were probably the result of a simple dilemma facing medieval fisherman at remote rivers, lakes, and coastlines, who landed many fish but had little salt and few barrels. The solution was to salt the cleaned fish lightly and bury them where they had been caught, in a hole in the ground, perhaps wrapped in birch bark: - were probably the result of a simple dilemma facing medieval fisherman at remote rivers, lakes, and coastlines, who landed many fish but had little salt and few barrels. The solution was to salt the cleaned fish lightly and bury them where they had been caught, in a hole in the ground, perhaps wrapped in birch bark: gravlax gravlax means "buried salmon." The low summer temperature of the far northern earth, the airlessness, minimal salt, and added carbohydrates (from the bark, or from whey, malted barley, or flour), all conspired to encourage a lactic fermentation that acidified the fish surface. And enzymes from the fish muscle and the bacteria broke protein and fish oil down to produce a b.u.t.tery texture and powerful, sharp, cheesy smell: the means "buried salmon." The low summer temperature of the far northern earth, the airlessness, minimal salt, and added carbohydrates (from the bark, or from whey, malted barley, or flour), all conspired to encourage a lactic fermentation that acidified the fish surface. And enzymes from the fish muscle and the bacteria broke protein and fish oil down to produce a b.u.t.tery texture and powerful, sharp, cheesy smell: the sur sur in in sursild sursild and and surlax surlax means "sour." means "sour."

Modern, unfermented gravlax is made by dry-salting salmon fillets for a few days at refrigerator temperatures (p. 233).

Smoked Fish The smoking of fish may have begun with fishermen drying their catch over a fire when sun, wind, and salt were inadequate. Certainly many familiar smoked fishes come from cool northern nations: smoked herring from Germany, Holland, and Britain, cod and haddock from Britain, sturgeon from Russia, salmon from Norway, Scotland, and Nova Scotia (the origin of the "Nova" salmon found in delicatessens), and smoked skipjack from j.a.pan. It turned out that smoke imparts a flavor that can mask stale fis.h.i.+ness, and it helps preserve both the fish and its own flavor; the many chemicals generated by burning wood have both antimicrobial and antioxidant properties (p. 449). Traditional smoking treatments were extreme; the medieval Yarmouth red herring was left ungutted, saturated with salt and then smoked for several weeks, leaving it capable of lasting as long as a year, but also odiferous enough to become a byword for establis.h.i.+ng - or covering up - a scent trail. When rail transport reduced the time from production to market in the 19th century, both salt and smoke cures became much milder. Today salt contents are kept around or under 3%, the salinity of seawater, and smoking is limited to a few hours, contributing flavor and extending the shelf life of refrigerated fish for a matter of days or weeks. Much modern smoked fish and sh.e.l.lfish is preserved in cans!

Garum: The Original Anchovy PasteOne of the defining flavors of the ancient world was a fermented fish sauce variously calledgaros (Greece), (Greece), garum, garum, and and liquamen liquamen (Rome). According to the Roman natural historian Pliny, "garum consists of the guts of fish and other parts that would otherwise be considered refuse, so that garum is really the liquor from putrefaction." Despite its origins and no doubt powerful aroma, Pliny noted that "scarcely any other liquid except perfume has become more highly valued"; the best, from mackerel only, came from Roman outposts in Spain. Garum was made by salting the fish innards, letting the mixture ferment in the sun for several months until the flesh had mostly fallen apart, and then straining the brown liquid. It was used as an ingredient in cooked dishes and as a sauce at the table, sometimes mixed with wine or vinegar ( (Rome). According to the Roman natural historian Pliny, "garum consists of the guts of fish and other parts that would otherwise be considered refuse, so that garum is really the liquor from putrefaction." Despite its origins and no doubt powerful aroma, Pliny noted that "scarcely any other liquid except perfume has become more highly valued"; the best, from mackerel only, came from Roman outposts in Spain. Garum was made by salting the fish innards, letting the mixture ferment in the sun for several months until the flesh had mostly fallen apart, and then straining the brown liquid. It was used as an ingredient in cooked dishes and as a sauce at the table, sometimes mixed with wine or vinegar (oenogarum, oxygarum). Some form of garum is called for in nearly every savory recipe in the late Roman recipe collection attributed to Apicius.Preparations like garum persisted in the Mediterranean through the 16th century, then died out as the modern-day, solid version of garum rose to prominence: salt-cured but innard-free anchovies.

Preliminary Salting and Drying Nowadays, fish destined for the smoker are generally soaked in a strong brine for a few hours to days, long enough to pick up a little salt (a few percent, not enough to inhibit microbial spoilage). This also draws to the surface some of the proteins in the muscle fiber, notably myosin. When the fish is hung and allowed to drip dry, the sticky layer of dissolved myosin on the surface forms a s.h.i.+ny gel or Nowadays, fish destined for the smoker are generally soaked in a strong brine for a few hours to days, long enough to pick up a little salt (a few percent, not enough to inhibit microbial spoilage). This also draws to the surface some of the proteins in the muscle fiber, notably myosin. When the fish is hung and allowed to drip dry, the sticky layer of dissolved myosin on the surface forms a s.h.i.+ny gel or pellicle pellicle that will give the smoked fish an attractive golden sheen. (The gold color is created by browning reactions between aldehydes in the smoke and amino acids in the pellicle, as well as condensation of dark resins from the smoke vapor.) that will give the smoked fish an attractive golden sheen. (The gold color is created by browning reactions between aldehydes in the smoke and amino acids in the pellicle, as well as condensation of dark resins from the smoke vapor.) Cold and Hot Smoking The initial smoking (often using sawdust, which can produce more smoke at a lower temperature than intact wood) takes place at a relatively cool temperature around 85F/30C, which avoids hardening the surface and forming a barrier to moisture movement from the interior. This also allows the fish flesh to lose some moisture and become denser without being cooked, which would denature connective-tissue collagen and cause the fish to fall apart. Finally, the fish is smoked for several hours in one of two temperature ranges. In cold smoking, the temperature remains below 90F/32C, and the fish retains its delicate raw texture. In hot smoking, the fish is essentially cooked in air at temperatures that gradually rise and approach the boiling point; it reaches an internal temperature of 150170F/6575C fairly quickly, and has a cohesive yet dry, flaky texture. Fish smoked cold and long can keep for as long as a couple of months in the refrigerator, while a light smoking, hot or cold, will only keep the fish for a few days or weeks. The initial smoking (often using sawdust, which can produce more smoke at a lower temperature than intact wood) takes place at a relatively cool temperature around 85F/30C, which avoids hardening the surface and forming a barrier to moisture movement from the interior. This also allows the fish flesh to lose some moisture and become denser without being cooked, which would denature connective-tissue collagen and cause the fish to fall apart. Finally, the fish is smoked for several hours in one of two temperature ranges. In cold smoking, the temperature remains below 90F/32C, and the fish retains its delicate raw texture. In hot smoking, the fish is essentially cooked in air at temperatures that gradually rise and approach the boiling point; it reaches an internal temperature of 150170F/6575C fairly quickly, and has a cohesive yet dry, flaky texture. Fish smoked cold and long can keep for as long as a couple of months in the refrigerator, while a light smoking, hot or cold, will only keep the fish for a few days or weeks.

Lightly Salted, Strong-Smelling Fish: Surstrmming SurstrmmingFish pastes and sauces are cured with enough salt to limit the growth and activity of microbes. There are also fish fermentations that involve far less salt, so that bacteria thrive and have a far more powerful influence on flavor. One notorious example is Swedish Surstrmming. Surstrmming. Herring are fermented in barrels for one to two months, then sealed in cans and allowed to continue for as much as another year. The cans swell, which is normally a warning sign for the growth of botulism bacteria, but for Herring are fermented in barrels for one to two months, then sealed in cans and allowed to continue for as much as another year. The cans swell, which is normally a warning sign for the growth of botulism bacteria, but for surstrmming surstrmming a sign of promising flavor development. The unusual bacteria responsible for ripening in the can are species of a sign of promising flavor development. The unusual bacteria responsible for ripening in the can are species of Haloanaerobium, Haloanaerobium, which produce hydrogen and carbon dioxide gases, hydrogen sulfide, and butyric, propionic, and acetic acids: in effect a combination of rotten eggs, rancid Swiss cheese, and vinegar, overlaid onto the basic fish flavor! which produce hydrogen and carbon dioxide gases, hydrogen sulfide, and butyric, propionic, and acetic acids: in effect a combination of rotten eggs, rancid Swiss cheese, and vinegar, overlaid onto the basic fish flavor!

Fine smoked salmon may be treated with salt and sometimes sugar for a few hours to a few days, then rinsed, air-dried, and cold-smoked for anywhere from five to 36 hours, with the temperature rising from 85 to 100F/30 to 40C toward the end to bring some glossy oil to the surface.

Four-Way Preservation: j.a.panese Katsuobus.h.i.+ The most remarkable preserved fish is katsuobus.h.i.+, katsuobus.h.i.+, a cornerstone of j.a.panese cooking, which dates from around 1700 and is made most often from one fish, the skip-jack tuna a cornerstone of j.a.panese cooking, which dates from around 1700 and is made most often from one fish, the skip-jack tuna Katsuwonus pelamis. Katsuwonus pelamis. The fish's musculature is cut away from the body in several pieces, which are gently boiled in salt water for about an hour, and their skin removed. Next, they undergo a routine of daily hot-smoking above a hardwood fire until they have fully hardened. This stage lasts 10 to 20 days. Then the pieces are inoculated with one or more of several different molds (species of The fish's musculature is cut away from the body in several pieces, which are gently boiled in salt water for about an hour, and their skin removed. Next, they undergo a routine of daily hot-smoking above a hardwood fire until they have fully hardened. This stage lasts 10 to 20 days. Then the pieces are inoculated with one or more of several different molds (species of Aspergillus, Eurotium, Penicillium Aspergillus, Eurotium, Penicillium), sealed in a box, and allowed to ferment on their surface for about two weeks. After a day or two of sun-drying, the mold is sc.r.a.ped off; this molding process is repeated three or four times. At the end, after a total of three to five months, the meat has turned light brown and dense; when struck, it's said to sound like a resonant piece of wood.

Why go to all this trouble? Because it acc.u.mulates a spectrum of flavor molecules whose breadth is approached only in the finest cured meats and cheeses. From the fish muscle itself and its enzymes come lactic acid and savory amino acids, peptides, and nucleotides; from the smoking come pungent phenolic compounds; from the boiling, smoking, and sun-drying come the roasted, meaty aromas of nitrogen- and sulfur-containing carbon rings; and from the mold's attack on fish fat come many flowery, fruity, green notes.

Katsuobus.h.i.+ is to the j.a.panese tradition what a concentrated veal stock is to the French: a convenient flavor base for many soups and sauces. It contributes its months of flavor-making in a matter of moments in the form of fine shavings. For the basic broth called das.h.i.+, das.h.i.+, cold water is brought just to the boil with a piece of kombu seaweed, which is then removed. The katsuobus.h.i.+ shavings are added, the liquid brought again to the boil, and poured off the shavings the moment they absorb enough water to fall to the bottom. The broth's delicate flavor is spoiled by prolonged steeping or pressing the shavings. cold water is brought just to the boil with a piece of kombu seaweed, which is then removed. The katsuobus.h.i.+ shavings are added, the liquid brought again to the boil, and poured off the shavings the moment they absorb enough water to fall to the bottom. The broth's delicate flavor is spoiled by prolonged steeping or pressing the shavings.

Smoked Fish Terminology

Kippered herring

Herring, gutted and split, cold-smoked Herring, gutted and split, cold-smoked

Bloater, bokking

Herring, whole, cold-smoked Herring, whole, cold-smoked

Buckling

Herring, whole, hot-smoked Herring, whole, hot-smoked

Sild

Herring, immature, whole, hot-smoked Herring, immature, whole, hot-smoked

Red herring

Herring, gutted, unsplit, cold-smoked Herring, gutted, unsplit, cold-smoked

Brisling

Sprat, immature, whole, hot-smoked Sprat, immature, whole, hot-smoked

Finnan haddie