Uncommon Grounds Part 17

Research has failed to prove that caffeine harms the fetus or breast-fed infant, but some studies appear to implicate caffeine in lower birth weights. Jack James has urged pregnant women to abstain from drinking caffeine beverages. On the other hand, the National Coffee a.s.sociation (which certainly has a vested interest in the matter) has a.s.serted that "most physicians and researchers today agree that it's perfectly safe for pregnant women to consume caffeine." For those who choose to err on the side of caution, the NCA recommends one or two cups daily.

Experts in fact don't agree on much when it comes to coffee and caffeine intake, partly because individuals exhibit remarkably different reactions. Some people are wired for hours with a mere sip; others can drink a double espresso right before falling into a sound sleep. Thus, every coffee lover should determine his or her level of comfortable consumption, preferably no more than two or three cups a day.132 Are You Addicted?

Some people can drink dozens of cups of coffee a day without bouncing off the walls because they have developed a caffeine tolerance. If they quit cold turkey, they would probably suffer exquisitely, like Cathy Rossiter, who took part in a 1993 Johns Hopkins study on the effects of caffeine withdrawal. Rossiter favored Mountain Dew, chugging the heavily caffeinated lemon-lime soft drink all day. Her need was so intense that she found herself standing in a supermarket line holding a Mountain Dew in either hand while she was in labor with her second child.

For the study, Rossiter agreed to abstain from caffeine for two days. "It felt like a migraine, just right behind your eyes. It was like someone had a little knife digging out your brains." Caffeine withdrawal symptoms include headaches, drowsiness, fatigue, decreased performance, and, for extreme cases, nausea and vomiting. Rossiter made it through the two days but refused to kick the habit permanently.

"There is a real withdrawal syndrome," caffeine researcher John Hughes emphasized, "even for those who consume as little as 100 milligrams (one cup of coffee) a day." Hughes considered it ridiculous that coffee, tea, and cola containers do not currently have to specify the amount of caffeine they contain. He espoused a warning label: "Abrupt cessation of caffeine can cause headache, drowsiness, and fatigue."

Despite the pain of caffeine withdrawal, it only lasts a week or so. As addictions go, it is a relatively harmless one. "Addiction has lost whatever vestige of clear scientific definition it ever had," caffeine researcher Peter Dews said. "Most people are addicted to caffeine-containing beverages, just as most are addicted to showers and regular meals. That is not a bad thing. It is a habit that can be indulged for a lifetime without adverse effects to health."133 Maybe. The habit has such a hold on us that there are innumerable Web sites, chat rooms, blogs, and newsgroups on the Internet devoted to coffee. Perhaps it isn't just the caffeine. There are 2,000 other chemicals in the roasted bean-oils, caramels, carbohydrates, proteins, phosphates, minerals, volatile acids, nonvolatile acids, ash, trigonelline, phenolics, volatile carbonyls, and sulfides-making it one of the most complex of food products. Still, I suspect it's the caffeine that binds most of us to coffee.

The Coffee Tour in Costa Rica Historically, the best beans have been exported, but as domestic markets become more sophisticated, and as tourists flood the tropical paradises where coffee thrives, there will be an increasing demand for better quality in the producing countries. About 26 percent of the world's coffee is consumed where it is grown. Ethiopians and Brazilians have become so fond of the beverage that they are consuming almost half of their own production.

In Costa Rica, Steve Aronson sells Cafe Britt, his "strictly hard bean" (meaning high-grown, high-quality) specialty offering. Aronson, a Bronx native, has spent his entire career in coffee trading or roasting. By the early 1990s, with Costa Rican tourism booming, he saw an opportunity. For years Costa Rican law forced all coffee exporters to sell 10 percent of their beans at a government auction for domestic use. The prices were so low that exporters could have gotten more money abroad for even their blackest beans. As a result, the exporters often would sell 2 percent of their beans, buy them back, resell them, and continue this recycling until they had sold 10 percent in volume, but not in fact.

To counter such subterfuge, the government dumped beans to be auctioned into a vat of blue dye, to prevent their being resold, thus making them even less palatable. By law, it was illegal illegal to sell high-quality beans in Costa Rica. Aronson successfully lobbied to change the law and to do away with the blue-dye fiasco. He then sold his Cafe Britt beans in upscale Costa Rican supermarkets, hotels, restaurants, and offices. It was consequently much easier to find a decent-indeed, superior-cup of coffee. I can testify that the regular brew is horrific. I had perhaps the worst coffee of my life-weak, bitter, and tasting faintly of ammonia-one morning in Costa Rica's Central Valley, the epicenter of the coffee industry. to sell high-quality beans in Costa Rica. Aronson successfully lobbied to change the law and to do away with the blue-dye fiasco. He then sold his Cafe Britt beans in upscale Costa Rican supermarkets, hotels, restaurants, and offices. It was consequently much easier to find a decent-indeed, superior-cup of coffee. I can testify that the regular brew is horrific. I had perhaps the worst coffee of my life-weak, bitter, and tasting faintly of ammonia-one morning in Costa Rica's Central Valley, the epicenter of the coffee industry.

Taking advantage of the one-way valve, Aronson pioneered in another way as well. He roasted, bagged, and sold his beans worldwide through an 800 number (800-GO-BRITT) and air courier service, cutting out all middlemen. U.S. consumers pay about $11 a pound (including s.h.i.+pping) for their specially delivered beans. Aronson attracts most of these customers through the Coffee Tour show at his roasting plant in Heredia. There, tourists pay $20 to watch attractive, energetic young actors present a whirlwind history of coffee in English and Spanish. And what better way to end the tour than to buy some Cafe Britt? Some 40,000 people annually troop through the Coffee Tour, making it Costa Rica's third biggest tourist attraction-and 10 percent of them become regular customers back home.

As other entrepreneurs roast and sell coffee in producing countries, perhaps the profits from coffee will be distributed somewhat more evenly. Cafe culture itself is apparently going global, with specialty coffeehouses popping up across the Pacific Rim, where tea traditionally has dominated.

Winged for Posterity Only one thing is certain about coffee, though. Wherever it is grown, sold, brewed, and consumed, there will be lively controversy, strong opinions, and good conversation. "The best stories [are told] over coffee," wrote a wise commentator in 1902, "as the aroma of the coffee opens the portals of [the] soul, and the story, long hidden, is winged for posterity."

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS.

Researching and writing the first edition of Uncommon Grounds Uncommon Grounds took three years, which included much travel and archival research. I should have kept better records of the many people who helped me along the way. If anyone feels left out, please put it down to my memory rather than my intent. took three years, which included much travel and archival research. I should have kept better records of the many people who helped me along the way. If anyone feels left out, please put it down to my memory rather than my intent.

Thanks first to my ever-patient agent Lisa Bankoff. Tim Bartlett was the editor for the first edition at Basic, along with his a.s.sistant, Caroline Sparrow. In addition, my freelance editor, Regina Hersey, helped me prune over a third of the original ma.n.u.script and to shave this edition. Michael Wilde, copyeditor, also provided constructive comments on the contents. Tim Sullivan edited this second edition, with a.s.sistance from Adam Kahtib.

Many other people read portions of the ma.n.u.script and made helpful suggestions, including Betty Hannstein Adams, Rick Adams, Mane Alves, Irene Angelico, Mike Arms, Ian Bersten, Dan c.o.x, Kenneth Davids, Margaret Edwards, Max Friedman, David Galland, Roland Griffiths, Marylen Grigas, John Hughes, Jack James, Wade Kit, Russ Kramer, Liz La.s.ser, Ted Lingle, Jane McCabe, Chris and Penny Miller, Bill Mitch.e.l.l, Betty Molnar, Alfred Peet, Britt and Nan Pendergrast, John and Docie Pendergrast, Scott Pendergrast, Marino Petracco, Joanne Ranney, Larry Ribbecke, Donald Schoenholt, Steve Schulman, Tom Stevens, David Stoll, Steve Streeter, Steven Topik, Blair Vickery, and K. K. Wilder. Of course, I alone am responsible for the contents.

I must single out Betty and Rick Adams from that list. Betty appears as a character in the book, particularly in the final chapter. She was also a thoughtful reader of the ma.n.u.script. In this book's Notes on Sources, Rick appears as Richard N. Adams, the anthropologist. In Guatemala, he was my part-time chauffeur as well as guide, and his criticism of some oversimplifications in the original ma.n.u.script helped keep me honest. Both were gracious hosts when I visited Finca Oriflama Finca Oriflama in Guatemala. in Guatemala.

I also want to thank the many e-mail correspondents who helped brainstorm the book t.i.tle. Coincidentally, Uncommon Grounds Uncommon Grounds is also the name of a fine coffeehouse in Burlington, Vermont. is also the name of a fine coffeehouse in Burlington, Vermont.

I could not have completed this book without the help of research a.s.sistants William Berger, Brady Crain, Jan DeSirey, Erica De Vos, Chris Dodge, Shad Emerson, Sherecce Fields, Meg Gandy, Denise Guyette, Margaret Jervis, John Kulsick, Liz La.s.ser, and Dhamma Merion. Many thanks to Chris Dodge, Peter Freyd, Henry Lilienheim, my parents, and others who acted as my "coffee clipping service."

Helena Pasquarella took photos from old periodicals that appear in the ill.u.s.trations, and I am grateful to Greg Arbuckle, Brad Becker, and Jerry Baldwin for help with other ill.u.s.trations. In conjunction with his film on coffee, David Ozier shared archival music and video footage. Jane McCabe, then editor of the Tea & Coffee Trade Journal Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, generously granted permission to reprint ill.u.s.trations from that publication's pages.

Librarians and archivists helped me at the Hartman Center at Duke University, the Rockefeller Archives (Tarrytown, New York), the Underhill Public Library (Vermont), the Brownell Library (Ess.e.x Junction, Vermont), Bailey-Howe Library at the University of Vermont, the National Archives, the Library of Congress, the New York Public Library, the South Street Seaport Museum, the Archives Center at the National Museum of American History (Smithsonian), CIRMA (Antigua, Guatemala), Syracuse University Special Collections, Stanford University Special Collections, and the International Coffee Organization in London. I was particularly indebted to librarians/archivists/curators Anne Dornan, Ellen Gartrell, Bill Gill, Steven Jaffe, Tab Lewis, Ginny Powers, Tom Rosenbaum, Allison Ryley, and Martin Wattam.

In general, I found members of the coffee industry to be pa.s.sionate about their product and eager to help with this project. See the Note on Sources for the long list of interviewees who shared their time and memories. I want to single out a few people. Donald Schoenholt generously shared his vast knowledge of coffee history and meticulously reviewed the ma.n.u.script. T. Carroll Wilson, who joined Hills Brothers in 1924, took me through eight decades of his life in coffee. Dan c.o.x gave me hours of his time and expertise. Russ Kramer shared his wonderful private coffee library. Coffee exporter Klaus Monkemuller, who ran Unicom, hosted me on my initial forays in Guatemala. Bill McAlpin put me up at La Minita and shared his firmly held convictions. Doug Mitch.e.l.l, the travel agent who ran Cafe Away, made the three-week SCAA visit to Honduras, El Salvador, and Nicaragua a well-planned pleasure. Ted Lingle shared with me his knowledge and the resources of the Specialty Coffee a.s.sociation of America, just as Robert Nelson allowed me to rummage through the National Coffee a.s.sociation files and helped me in other ways as well. Starbucks executive Dave Olsen granted a lengthy interview, and for the second edition I interviewed CEO Howard Schultz and other executives. Thanks to Sanja Gould of Starbucks for her enthusiastic help and encouragement.

Other coffee experts who unselfishly helped were Mane Alves, Jerry Baldwin, Ian Bersten, Kenneth Davids, George Howell, Fred Houk, Kevin Knox, Erna Knutsen, Sherri Miller, Alfred Peet, Rick Peyser, and Gary Talboy. Thanks to Green Mountain Coffee Roasters for allowing me to be a student for a day at the company's Coffee College in Waterbury, Vermont, and to illycaffe for inviting me to attend Universita del Caffe in Trieste.

Like most writers, I couldn't afford standard accommodations during my research forays. I was fortunate to stay with varied and interesting hosts-Sue Taylor in Fairfax, Virginia; Dan McCracken, Roz Starr, and Grace Brady in New York City; Esperanza "Chice" Chacon and her daughter, Andrea, in Guatemala City; Rick and Betty Adams at Finca Oriflama Finca Oriflama and their home in Panajachel, Guatemala; Bill McAlpin's La Minita in Costa Rica; Philip and Jessica Christey in London; Sheila Flannery in Chapel Hill; Brent and Janie Cohen in Oakland; and Britt and Nan Pendergrast (my parents) in Atlanta. and their home in Panajachel, Guatemala; Bill McAlpin's La Minita in Costa Rica; Philip and Jessica Christey in London; Sheila Flannery in Chapel Hill; Brent and Janie Cohen in Oakland; and Britt and Nan Pendergrast (my parents) in Atlanta.

The three largest coffee corporations at the time of the first edition-Philip Morris (Kraft-Maxwell House), Procter & Gamble (Folgers-Millstone), and Nestle (Hills Brothers-MJB-Chase & Sanborn-Nescafe-Taster's Choice-Sarks)-chose not to partic.i.p.ate in this project, other than in a minimal way, so I had to rely primarily on interviews with former employees. Becky Tousey of the Kraft Archives provided background material about Maxwell House, however, and Nestle headquarters at Vevey, Switzerland, sent me a fine published corporate history. Procter & Gamble provided a 1962 history of Folgers. Ogilvy & Mather (Maxwell House) and McCann-Erickson (Taster's Choice) personnel were helpful.

For this second edition, I am again particularly indebted to Donald Schoenholt of Gillies Coffee for his help and encouragement, as well as Silvia Carboni, Tim Castle, Karen Cebreros, Dan c.o.x, Owen Dugan, Frank Elevitch, Moreno Faina, Brian Franklin, Kyle Freund, Sanja Gould, George Howell, Russ Kramer, Mausi Kuhl, Ted Lingle, Bill McAlpin, Graham Mitch.e.l.l, Laura Peterson, Marino Petracco, Rick Peyser, Ric Rhinehart, Paul Rice, Robert Rice, Rolf Sauerbier, Susie Spindler, Yesenia Villota, Geoff Watts, Sandy Wynne, and Sandy Yusen Author Mark Pendergrast (left) looks down at his half-filled canasta canasta, which he picked in the same time it took his caporal caporal Herman Gabriel Camel (right) to harvest a full basket on Herman Gabriel Camel (right) to harvest a full basket on Finca Oriflama Finca Oriflama in Guatemala. in Guatemala.

APPENDIX.

How to Brew the Perfect Cup Despite the mystique, brewing a good cup of coffee is relatively simple. Grind recently roasted whole beans of a high-quality arabica blend. Bring cold, pure water to a near boil. Let the not-quite-boiling water remain in contact with the ground coffee at the proper ratio-two tablespoons of coffee per six ounces of water-for four or five minutes. Pour the filtered coffee into your cup. Add sugar or cream if you prefer it that way. Drink immediately. Sigh contentedly.

That really is all there is to it. Having said that, I have to admit there are finer points that true coffee aficionados aficionados discuss endlessly. What is the best grind for what kind of brewing method? Which is the best brewing device? How dark should the beans be roasted? Is it preferable to store roasted coffee in the freezer or the refrigerator? Which are the best beans for after-dinner enjoyment? Are paper filters okay to use? And G.o.d help you if you want advice on espresso, which is treated as if it were an esoteric art best performed by Leonardo da Vinci on speed. discuss endlessly. What is the best grind for what kind of brewing method? Which is the best brewing device? How dark should the beans be roasted? Is it preferable to store roasted coffee in the freezer or the refrigerator? Which are the best beans for after-dinner enjoyment? Are paper filters okay to use? And G.o.d help you if you want advice on espresso, which is treated as if it were an esoteric art best performed by Leonardo da Vinci on speed.

When I began writing this book, I thought I appreciated good coffee. Now I've slurped, swirled, and spat at cupping sessions, tried beans from Antigua to Zimbabwe, and own various brewing systems. Sometimes I even roast my own beans in my kitchen oven at 450F using a Palani Plantation roasting pan-an aluminum pie plate with holes punched regularly in the bottom that set me back around $20, including a supply of green beans (fax/phone orders to 650-327-5774). In my oven, it takes about seven minutes until the first pop first pop, when I can hear the beans crackling and expanding. With the oven fan on, I take them out at eleven minutes for a medium roast, then toss them in a colander outdoors to cool them. I blow on them to remove most of the brown chaff-the silver skin that pops off during the roast. It's magic. Hard green beans that look something like peanuts come out of the oven nearly doubled in size and looking like roasted coffee.

They taste like it too. The heat has caused a chemical alchemy inside the beans, caramelizing sugars and carbohydrates, producing chlorogenic acids, and releasing volatile aromatic oils. I grind my fresh-roasted beans in a burr grinder. Then I measure the right amount into my preheated press pot (slos.h.i.+ng hot water around in it does the trick). In the meantime, I've put a tea kettle on the stove until it's whistling. I take it off the burner and let it sit for a few seconds, then pour the water in. Because the beans are freshly roasted, they still have a lot of carbon dioxide, and they foam up. I stir them down, add more water until the pot is full, cover it with the little piston, and read the paper for five minutes. Then I slowly press the plunger to the bottom and pour my cup.

I like the press pot because it is so basic-it makes a real infusion, just the coffee and hot water. The drawback is that it's annoying to clean, and the coffee cools off pretty quickly. Regardless of your brewing method, you should pour it into a thermos to keep it warm once it's made. A paper filter system makes cleanup easier. For a superb, dramatic brew, use a vacuum system, if you can find one in a specialty shop. Or you can use an automatic electric brewer, but beware-only a few models get the temperature (should be 195F) and brew time right. And don't leave the coffee on the hotplate, where it will turn bitter quickly. You can even make a decent cup of coffee in a pumping percolator if you carefully regulate time, temperature, and grind, but I don't advise it.

If you're not keen on coffee smoke in your kitchen (or setting off your smoke detector), and if you want professionally roasted coffee, you should find a local specialty roaster. Ask questions, and you'll get suggestions for different blends and roast styles. For that bright wake-up cup, try a high-grown Guatemalan Antigua. For after-dinner coffee, how about a rich, full-bodied Sumatra? I cannot advise whether to purchase dark-roasted beans, since this is a matter of preference. I don't like beans roasted just this side of charcoal, but many people love them. The main point, regardless of what roast or origin you choose, is to get freshly roasted coffee at frequent intervals, buying only what you plan to use in the coming week or so. Otherwise, your coffee will get stale, no matter how great it was to start with.

If you don't have a local roaster, order through the mail. I can't recommend specific suppliers, but there are plenty of them. Or try your local supermarket. The choices have gotten better. If you buy bulk whole beans, ask the manager how frequently they are rotated. You don't want to buy beans that have been staling for a couple of weeks. If you buy packaged beans, make sure they are all-arabica and that they come in a one-way valve bag.

If you have to store your beans, put them in your freezer in an airtight container (with as little air in it as possible). You can grind and brew them straight from the freezer. It's best to buy a superior burr grinder, but one of the blade whackers will do. The longer you let it whine, the finer your grind will be. Generally, the proper grind is determined by how long the grounds remain in contact with the hot water. For drip methods, a medium grind allows the flavorful solubles to be dissolved in five minutes. Longer contact with water just extracts bitterness. For my press pot, I use a slightly coa.r.s.er grind, since the water remains in full contact with all of the grounds for the entire brewing time. For espresso or vacuum brewing, you want a fine, powdery grind owing to a very short period of contact.

If you're into espresso, there are many kinds of expensive machines. And if you really really want great espresso, go to your favorite coffeehouse and buy it there. Or buy one of the single-serving machines from Keurig, Nespresso, illycaffe or others. want great espresso, go to your favorite coffeehouse and buy it there. Or buy one of the single-serving machines from Keurig, Nespresso, illycaffe or others.

If you want to flavor your coffee, try easy-to-find natural additives first. The Ethiopians and Arabs used cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, citrus rinds, or ground nuts. They didn't know about cocoa or vanilla. Various forms of liquor work well. Whipped cream is nice. If you must, use flavoring syrups after after you've brewed the coffee, or buy preflavored beans. Remember-whatever you like is okay. you've brewed the coffee, or buy preflavored beans. Remember-whatever you like is okay.

NOTES ON SOURCES.

In the interests of s.p.a.ce, I have written the brief bibliographic essay below to replace the extensive original endnotes and bibliography. For those, see the first hardback edition, or contact me through my website, www.markpendergrast.com.

-Mark Pendergrast

General books on coffee history and cultivation: Among the first were Francis Thurber's Coffee: From Plantation to Cup Coffee: From Plantation to Cup (1881); Robert Hewitt Jr.'s (1881); Robert Hewitt Jr.'s Coffee: Its History, Cultivation and Uses Coffee: Its History, Cultivation and Uses (1872) and Edwin Lester Arnold's (1872) and Edwin Lester Arnold's Coffee: Its Cultivation and Profit Coffee: Its Cultivation and Profit (1886). William H. Ukers's (1886). William H. Ukers's All About Coffee All About Coffee (2nd ed., 1935) is the cla.s.sic text. Heinrich Eduard Jacob, a German journalist, offered (2nd ed., 1935) is the cla.s.sic text. Heinrich Eduard Jacob, a German journalist, offered The Saga of Coffee The Saga of Coffee (1935), and Colombian Andres C. Uribe wrote (1935), and Colombian Andres C. Uribe wrote Brown Gold Brown Gold (1954). Frederick L. Wellman wrote the monumental, if technical, (1954). Frederick L. Wellman wrote the monumental, if technical, Coffee: Botany, Cultivation and Utilization Coffee: Botany, Cultivation and Utilization (1961), followed by (1961), followed by Modern Coffee Production Modern Coffee Production (2nd ed., 1962), by A. E. Haarer. British expert Edward Bramah offered (2nd ed., 1962), by A. E. Haarer. British expert Edward Bramah offered Tea & Coffee Tea & Coffee (1972) and (1972) and Coffee Makers Coffee Makers (1989). Ulla Heise contributed (1989). Ulla Heise contributed Coffee and Coffeehouses Coffee and Coffeehouses (1987), while Gordon Wrigley wrote (1987), while Gordon Wrigley wrote Coffee Coffee (1988), a technical treatise. Two members of the Illy family, famed for Italian espresso, wrote the lavishly ill.u.s.trated (1988), a technical treatise. Two members of the Illy family, famed for Italian espresso, wrote the lavishly ill.u.s.trated The Book of Coffee The Book of Coffee (1989). Philippe Jobin a.s.sembled the reference work (1989). Philippe Jobin a.s.sembled the reference work The Coffees Produced Throughout the World The Coffees Produced Throughout the World (1992). Australian Ian Bersten has written the fine (1992). Australian Ian Bersten has written the fine Coffee Floats, Tea Sinks Coffee Floats, Tea Sinks (1993), and Alain Stella contributed the coffee-table (1993), and Alain Stella contributed the coffee-table The Book of Coffee The Book of Coffee (1997). Stewart Lee Allen penned the quirky and entertaining book (1997). Stewart Lee Allen penned the quirky and entertaining book The Devil's Cup The Devil's Cup (1999). Daniel and Linda Lorenzetti's (1999). Daniel and Linda Lorenzetti's The Birth of Coffee The Birth of Coffee features photos of global coffee cultivation. Bennett Alan Weinberg and Bonnie K. Bealer's features photos of global coffee cultivation. Bennett Alan Weinberg and Bonnie K. Bealer's The World of Caffeine The World of Caffeine (2001) offers a well-researched, detailed history of coffee, tea, and chocolate, along with caffeine's cultural, physiological, and psychological effects. Antony Wild's (2001) offers a well-researched, detailed history of coffee, tea, and chocolate, along with caffeine's cultural, physiological, and psychological effects. Antony Wild's Coffee: A Dark History Coffee: A Dark History (2004) is an intriguing but undoc.u.mented and sketchy history. Michaele Weissman's (2004) is an intriguing but undoc.u.mented and sketchy history. Michaele Weissman's G.o.d in a Cup G.o.d in a Cup (2008) features three young world-roaming specialty coffee men. (2008) features three young world-roaming specialty coffee men.

Film doc.u.mentaries include Santiago's Story Santiago's Story (1999), from TransFair USA; (1999), from TransFair USA; Grounds for Hope Grounds for Hope (2000), from Lutheran World Relief; (2000), from Lutheran World Relief; Grounds for Action Grounds for Action (2004), directed by Marco Tavanti from Jubilee Economics Ministries; (2004), directed by Marco Tavanti from Jubilee Economics Ministries; Coffee Crisis Coffee Crisis (2003), from the Canadian Centre for International Studies and Cooperation; (2003), from the Canadian Centre for International Studies and Cooperation; Black Coffee Black Coffee (2005), directed by Irene Angelico; (2005), directed by Irene Angelico; Coffee with the Taste of the Moon Coffee with the Taste of the Moon (2005), produced by Michael Persinger; (2005), produced by Michael Persinger; Black Gold Black Gold (2006), directed by Nick and Marc Francis; (2006), directed by Nick and Marc Francis; Birdsong & Coffee Birdsong & Coffee (2006), directed by Anne Macsoud and John Ankele; (2006), directed by Anne Macsoud and John Ankele; Buyer Be Fair Buyer Be Fair (2006), produced/written by John de Graaf; (2006), produced/written by John de Graaf; From the Ground Up From the Ground Up (2009), directed by Su Friedrich. (2009), directed by Su Friedrich.

There are numerous books about the characteristics of coffee from different origins, along with roasting and brewing information. Among the earliest and best was The Story of Coffee and Tea The Story of Coffee and Tea (2nd ed., 1996), by Joel, David, and Karl Schapira, along with Kenneth Davids's many excellent books, such as (2nd ed., 1996), by Joel, David, and Karl Schapira, along with Kenneth Davids's many excellent books, such as Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing & Enjoying Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing & Enjoying (in many editions), Timothy Castle's (in many editions), Timothy Castle's The Perfect Cup The Perfect Cup (1991), Claudia Roden's (1991), Claudia Roden's Coffee Coffee (1994), Corby k.u.mmer's (1994), Corby k.u.mmer's The Joy of Coffee The Joy of Coffee (1995), Jon Thorn's (1995), Jon Thorn's The Coffee Companion The Coffee Companion (1995), (1995), Coffee Basics Coffee Basics, by Kevin Knox and Julie Sheldon Huffaker (1996), and Aroma of Coffee Aroma of Coffee (2nd ed., 2003), by Luis Norberto Pascoal. For tasters, there is Ted Lingle's (2nd ed., 2003), by Luis Norberto Pascoal. For tasters, there is Ted Lingle's The Coffee Cuppers' Handbook The Coffee Cuppers' Handbook (3rd ed., 2001) and Paul Katzeff's English/Spanish (3rd ed., 2001) and Paul Katzeff's English/Spanish The Coffee Cuppers' Manifesto The Coffee Cuppers' Manifesto (2001). Espresso lovers can consult David Schomer's (2001). Espresso lovers can consult David Schomer's Espresso Coffee: Professional Techniques Espresso Coffee: Professional Techniques (revised 2004) and Rinantonio Viani and Andrea Illy's (revised 2004) and Rinantonio Viani and Andrea Illy's Espresso Coffee: The Science of Quality Espresso Coffee: The Science of Quality (2nd ed., 2005). (2nd ed., 2005).

I relied primarily on three books for information on caffeine's health effects: Buzz: The Science and Lore of Alcohol and Caffeine Buzz: The Science and Lore of Alcohol and Caffeine (1996), by Stephen Braun; the more comprehensive (1996), by Stephen Braun; the more comprehensive Understanding Caffeine Understanding Caffeine (1997), by Jack James; and (1997), by Jack James; and The World of Caffeine The World of Caffeine (2001), by Weinberg and Bealer. Professional articles on caffeine by Roland Griffiths and John Hughes were also invaluable. (2001), by Weinberg and Bealer. Professional articles on caffeine by Roland Griffiths and John Hughes were also invaluable. Kicking the Coffee Habit Kicking the Coffee Habit (1981), by Charles F. Wetherall, and (1981), by Charles F. Wetherall, and Caffeine Blues Caffeine Blues (1998), by Stephen Cherniske, are typical of the anti-caffeine books. (1998), by Stephen Cherniske, are typical of the anti-caffeine books.

Three coffee organizations have extensive resources and publications: the Specialty Coffee a.s.sociation of America (SCAA) in Long Beach, California, the National Coffee a.s.sociation (NCA) in New York City, and the International Coffee Organization (ICO) in London.

The first coffee trade journal was the Spice Mill Spice Mill (now defunct), but the (now defunct), but the Tea & Coffee Trade Journal Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, long edited by the renowned William Ukers, eventually superseded it and remains the standard in the field. There are many other fine coffee periodicals, notably Barista Barista, Coffee & Cocoa International Coffee & Cocoa International, Coffee Talk Coffee Talk, Fresh Cup Fresh Cup, Roast Roast, and Specialty Coffee Retailer Specialty Coffee Retailer. The now-defunct World Coffee & Tea World Coffee & Tea also offered good coverage. Three Internet-only magazines are available: also offered good coverage. Three Internet-only magazines are available: Comunicaffe International and Comunicaffe Comunicaffe International and Comunicaffe ( (www.comunicaffe.com); Virtual Coffee Virtual Coffee ( (www.virtualcoffee.com); and Cafe Culture Magazine Cafe Culture Magazine ( (www.cafeculturemagazine.co.uk). Coffee blogs and other sites: Coffee Review Coffee Review ( (www.coffeereview.com), by Kenneth Davids; Coffee Geek Coffee Geek ( (www.coffeegeek.com), by Mark Prince; Coffee Sage Coffee Sage ( (www.coffeesage.com), by Joe Sweeney; Coffee Connaisseur Coffee Connaisseur ( (www.coffeeconnaisseur.com), by Steve Gorth; Coffeed.com ( (www.coffeed.com), "for professionals and fanatics"; Coffee Research Coffee Research ( (www.coffeeresearch.org), by Coffee Research Inst.i.tute; Coffee Origins' Encyclopedia Coffee Origins' Encyclopedia ( (www.supremo.be), by Belgian importer Supremo Coffee.

Useful histories/books on individual companies: A & P: P: A & P: A Study in Price-Cost Behavior and Public Policy A & P: A Study in Price-Cost Behavior and Public Policy (1966), by M. A. Adelman; (1966), by M. A. Adelman; That Wonderful A & P! That Wonderful A & P! (1969), by Edwin P. Hoyt; (1969), by Edwin P. Hoyt; The Rise and Decline of the Great Atlantic & Pacific Tea Company The Rise and Decline of the Great Atlantic & Pacific Tea Company (1986), by William I. Walsh; Alice Foote (1986), by William I. Walsh; Alice Foote MacDougall: MacDougall: The Autobiography of a Business Woman The Autobiography of a Business Woman (1928), by Alice Foote MacDougall; Arbuckles: (1928), by Alice Foote MacDougall; Arbuckles: Arbuckles: The Coffee That Won the West Arbuckles: The Coffee That Won the West (1994), by Francis L. Fugate; CFS Continental: (1994), by Francis L. Fugate; CFS Continental: More Than a Coffee Company: The Story of CFS Continental More Than a Coffee Company: The Story of CFS Continental (1986), by Jim Bowman; Claude Saks: (1986), by Jim Bowman; Claude Saks: Strong Brew Strong Brew (1996), by Claude Saks; Coca-Cola: (1996), by Claude Saks; Coca-Cola: For G.o.d, Country and Coca-Cola For G.o.d, Country and Coca-Cola (2d ed., 2000), by Mark Pendergrast; Columbian Coffee: (2d ed., 2000), by Mark Pendergrast; Columbian Coffee: Juan Valdez: The Strategy Behind the Brand Juan Valdez: The Strategy Behind the Brand (2008), by Mauricio Reina et al; Douwe Egberts: (2008), by Mauricio Reina et al; Douwe Egberts: Van Winkelnering Tot Weredlmerk: Douwe Egberts Van Winkelnering Tot Weredlmerk: Douwe Egberts (1987), by P. R. Van der Zee; Folgers: (1987), by P. R. Van der Zee; Folgers: The Folger Way The Folger Way (1962), by Ruth Waldo Newhall; Jacobs: (1962), by Ruth Waldo Newhall; Jacobs: 100 Years of Jacobs Cafe 100 Years of Jacobs Cafe (1995), by Kraft Jacobs Suchard; Jewel Tea: (1995), by Kraft Jacobs Suchard; Jewel Tea: Sharing a Business Sharing a Business (Jewel Tea, 1951), by Franklin J. Lunding; (Jewel Tea, 1951), by Franklin J. Lunding; The Jewel Tea Company The Jewel Tea Company (1994), by C. L. Miller; La Minita: (1994), by C. L. Miller; La Minita: Hacienda La Minita Hacienda La Minita (1997), by William J. McAlpin; Lavazza: (1997), by William J. McAlpin; Lavazza: Lavazza: 100 Years of Lavazza History Lavazza: 100 Years of Lavazza History (1995), by Notizie Lavazza; Maxwell House: (1995), by Notizie Lavazza; Maxwell House: Maxwell House Coffee: A Chronological History Maxwell House Coffee: A Chronological History (1996), by Kraft Foods; (1996), by Kraft Foods; MJB: MJB: Coffee, Martinis, and San Francisco Coffee, Martinis, and San Francisco (MJB, 1978), by Ruth Bransten McDougall; Nestle: (MJB, 1978), by Ruth Bransten McDougall; Nestle: Nestle: 125 Years Nestle: 125 Years (1991), by Jean Heer; Probat: (1991), by Jean Heer; Probat: The Heavenly Inferno The Heavenly Inferno (1968), by Helmut Rotthauwe; Procter & Gamble: (1968), by Helmut Rotthauwe; Procter & Gamble: Eyes on Tomorrow: The Evolution of Procter & Gamble Eyes on Tomorrow: The Evolution of Procter & Gamble (1981), by Oscar Schisgall; (1981), by Oscar Schisgall; Soap Opera: The Inside Story of Procter & Gamble Soap Opera: The Inside Story of Procter & Gamble (1993), by Alecia Swasy; Starbucks: (1993), by Alecia Swasy; Starbucks: It's Not About the Coffee: Leaders.h.i.+p Principles for a Life at Starbucks It's Not About the Coffee: Leaders.h.i.+p Principles for a Life at Starbucks (2007), by Howard Behar; (2007), by Howard Behar; Grande Expectations: A Year in the Life of Starbucks' Stock Grande Expectations: A Year in the Life of Starbucks' Stock (2008), by Karen Blumenthal; (2008), by Karen Blumenthal; Starbucked: A Double Tall Tale of Caffeine, Commerce, and Culture Starbucked: A Double Tall Tale of Caffeine, Commerce, and Culture (2007), by Taylor Clark; (2007), by Taylor Clark; Wrestling with Starbucks: Conscience, Capital, Cappuccino Wrestling with Starbucks: Conscience, Capital, Cappuccino (2008), by Kim Fellner; (2008), by Kim Fellner; How Starbucks Save My Life How Starbucks Save My Life (2007), by Michael Gates Gill; (2007), by Michael Gates Gill; Trade-Off Trade-Off (2009), by Kevin Maney and Jim Collins; (2009), by Kevin Maney and Jim Collins; The Starbucks Experience The Starbucks Experience (2006), by Joseph A. Mich.e.l.li; (2006), by Joseph A. Mich.e.l.li; Tribal Knowledge: Business Wisdom Brewed from the Grounds of Starbucks Corporate Culture Tribal Knowledge: Business Wisdom Brewed from the Grounds of Starbucks Corporate Culture (2006), by John Moore; (2006), by John Moore; Pour Your Heart Into It Pour Your Heart Into It (Starbucks history, 1997), by Howard Schultz and Dori Jones Yang; (Starbucks history, 1997), by Howard Schultz and Dori Jones Yang; My Sister's a Barista My Sister's a Barista (2005), by John Simmons; (2005), by John Simmons; Everything But the Coffee: Learning About America from Starbucks Everything But the Coffee: Learning About America from Starbucks (2009), by Bryant Simon; (2009), by Bryant Simon; The Gospel According to Starbucks The Gospel According to Starbucks (2007), by Leonard Sweet; (2007), by Leonard Sweet; W. W. R. Grace: R. Grace: Grace: W. R. Grace & Company Grace: W. R. Grace & Company (1985), by Lawrence A. Clayton. (1985), by Lawrence A. Clayton.

Books on coffee prices and international commodity schemes include: Open Economy Politics Open Economy Politics (1997), by Robert H. Bates; (1997), by Robert H. Bates; The Corner in Coffee The Corner in Coffee (fiction, 1904), by Cyrus Townsend Brady; (fiction, 1904), by Cyrus Townsend Brady; The Coffee Paradox The Coffee Paradox (2005), by Benoit Daviron and Stefano Ponte; (2005), by Benoit Daviron and Stefano Ponte; An Oligopoly: The World Coffee Economy and Stabilization An Oligopoly: The World Coffee Economy and Stabilization (1971), by Thomas Geer; (1971), by Thomas Geer; Trading Down Trading Down (2005), by Peter Gibbon and Stefano Ponte; (2005), by Peter Gibbon and Stefano Ponte; The Brazilian Coffee Valorization of 1906 The Brazilian Coffee Valorization of 1906 (1975), by Thomas H. Holloway; (1975), by Thomas H. Holloway; The International Political Economy of Coffee The International Political Economy of Coffee (1988), by Richard L. Lucier; (1988), by Richard L. Lucier; Rise and Demise of Commodity Agreements Rise and Demise of Commodity Agreements (1995), by Marcelo Raffaelli; (1995), by Marcelo Raffaelli; The Inter-American Coffee Agreement of 1940 The Inter-American Coffee Agreement of 1940 (1981), by Mary Rohr; (1981), by Mary Rohr; Studies in the Artificial Control of Raw Material Supplies Studies in the Artificial Control of Raw Material Supplies (1932), by J. W. F. Rowe; (1932), by J. W. F. Rowe; Grounds for Agreement Grounds for Agreement (2004), by John Talbot; (2004), by John Talbot; Coffee to 1995 Coffee to 1995 (1990), by Michael Wheeler; (1990), by Michael Wheeler; The World Coffee Economy The World Coffee Economy (1943), by V. D. Wickizer. (1943), by V. D. Wickizer.

Books about Fair Trade and the coffee crisis of 1999-2004: Gregory Dic.u.m and Nina Luttinger wrote The Coffee Book The Coffee Book (1999, 2006), concentrating primarily on social and environmental issues. (1999, 2006), concentrating primarily on social and environmental issues. Mugged: Poverty in Your Coffee Cup Mugged: Poverty in Your Coffee Cup (2002), by Charis Gresser and Sophia Tickell, is an Oxfam overview. John Talbot's (2002), by Charis Gresser and Sophia Tickell, is an Oxfam overview. John Talbot's Grounds for Agreement Grounds for Agreement (2004) argues for a new quota system via an International Coffee Agreement. Daniel Jaffe's (2004) argues for a new quota system via an International Coffee Agreement. Daniel Jaffe's Brewing Justice Brewing Justice (2007) is about the impact of Fair Trade on cooperatives in Oaxaca, Mexico. (2007) is about the impact of Fair Trade on cooperatives in Oaxaca, Mexico. Confronting the Coffee Crisis Confronting the Coffee Crisis (2008), edited by Christopher M. Bacon et al., is a collection of academic essays on Fair Trade in Central America and Mexico. Other books: (2008), edited by Christopher M. Bacon et al., is a collection of academic essays on Fair Trade in Central America and Mexico. Other books: Fair Trade Fair Trade (2005), by Charlotte Opal and Alex Nichols; (2005), by Charlotte Opal and Alex Nichols; Organic Coffee Organic Coffee (2006), by Maria Elena Martinez-Torres; (2006), by Maria Elena Martinez-Torres; Branded! Branded! (2007), by Michael E. Conroy; (2007), by Michael E. Conroy; Fair Trade Fair Trade (2007), edited by Laura T. Raynolds et al.; (2007), edited by Laura T. Raynolds et al.; Fair Trade Coffee Fair Trade Coffee (2007), by Gavin Fridell; (2007), by Gavin Fridell; 50 Reasons to Buy Fair Trade Coffee 50 Reasons to Buy Fair Trade Coffee (2007), by Miles Litvinoff and John Madeley; (2007), by Miles Litvinoff and John Madeley; Fair Trade for All Fair Trade for All (revised ed., 2007), Joseph E. Stiglitz; (revised ed., 2007), Joseph E. Stiglitz; The Handbook of Organic and Fair Trade Food Marketing The Handbook of Organic and Fair Trade Food Marketing (2007), by Simon Wright and Diane McCrea. (2007), by Simon Wright and Diane McCrea.

Coffee history involves a great deal of Latin American, African, and Asian history and politics, and I consulted numerous volumes. Among the more useful were: For Latin America: Crucifixion by Power Crucifixion by Power (1970), by Richard N. Adams; (1970), by Richard N. Adams; La Matanza La Matanza (1971) and (1971) and The War of the Dispossessed The War of the Dispossessed (1981), by Thomas P. Anderson; (1981), by Thomas P. Anderson; El Salvador: The Face of Revolution El Salvador: The Face of Revolution (1982), by Robert Armstrong and Janet Shenk; (1982), by Robert Armstrong and Janet Shenk; The Brazilian Economy The Brazilian Economy (1989), by Werner Baer; (1989), by Werner Baer; Roots of Rebellion Roots of Rebellion (1987), by Tom Barry; (1987), by Tom Barry; Bitter Grounds Bitter Grounds (fiction, 1997), by Sandra Benitez; (fiction, 1997), by Sandra Benitez; The Colombian Coffee Industry The Colombian Coffee Industry (1947), by Robert Carlyle Beyer; (1947), by Robert Carlyle Beyer; Getulio Vargas of Brazil Getulio Vargas of Brazil (1974), by Richard Bourne; (1974), by Richard Bourne; Land, Power, and Poverty Land, Power, and Poverty (1991), by Charles D. Brockett; (1991), by Charles D. Brockett; Violent Neighbors Violent Neighbors (1984), by Tom Buckley; (1984), by Tom Buckley; The Political Economy of Central America Since 1920 The Political Economy of Central America Since 1920 (1987), by Victor Bulwer-Thomas; three fine books by E. Bradford Burns: (1987), by Victor Bulwer-Thomas; three fine books by E. Bradford Burns: Eadweard Muybridge in Guatemala Eadweard Muybridge in Guatemala (1986), (1986), A History of Brazil A History of Brazil (2nd ed., 1980), and (2nd ed., 1980), and Latin America: A Concise Interpretive History Latin America: A Concise Interpretive History (1994); (1994); Coffee and Peasants Coffee and Peasants (1985), by J. C. Cambranes; (1985), by J. C. Cambranes; Coffee, Society and Power in Latin America Coffee, Society and Power in Latin America (1995), edited by William Roseberry et al.; (1995), edited by William Roseberry et al.; Thy Will Be Done Thy Will Be Done (1995), by Gerald Colby and Charlotte Dennett; (1995), by Gerald Colby and Charlotte Dennett; With Broadax and Firebrand With Broadax and Firebrand (1995), by Warren Dean; (1995), by Warren Dean; Vargas of Brazil Vargas of Brazil (1967), by John W. F. Dulles; (1967), by John W. F. Dulles; The Wine Is Bitter The Wine Is Bitter (1963), by Milton S. Eisenhower; (1963), by Milton S. Eisenhower; Erwin Paul Dieseldorff Erwin Paul Dieseldorff (1970), by Guillermo Nanez Falcon; (1970), by Guillermo Nanez Falcon; Ma.s.sacres in the Jungle Ma.s.sacres in the Jungle (1994), by Ricardo Falla; (1994), by Ricardo Falla; Coffee, Contention and Change in Modern Brazil Coffee, Contention and Change in Modern Brazil (1990), by Mauricio A. Font; (1990), by Mauricio A. Font; The Masters and the Slaves The Masters and the Slaves (1933), by Gilberto Freyre; (1933), by Gilberto Freyre; Open Veins of Latin America Open Veins of Latin America (1973), by Eduardo Galeano; (1973), by Eduardo Galeano; Gift of the Devil: A History of Guatemala Gift of the Devil: A History of Guatemala (1984) and (1984) and Revolution in the Countryside Revolution in the Countryside (1994), by Jim Handy; (1994), by Jim Handy; Early Twentieth-Century Life in Western Guatemala Early Twentieth-Century Life in Western Guatemala (1995), by Walter B. Hannstein; (1995), by Walter B. Hannstein; Written in Blood: The Story of the Haitian People Written in Blood: The Story of the Haitian People (1978), by Robert Deb Heinl Jr. and Nancy Gordon Heinl; (1978), by Robert Deb Heinl Jr. and Nancy Gordon Heinl; The CIA in Guatemala The CIA in Guatemala (1982), by Richard H. Immerman; (1982), by Richard H. Immerman; Coban and the Verapaz Coban and the Verapaz (1974), by Arden R. King; (1974), by Arden R. King; Undue Process: The Untold Story of America's German Alien Internees Undue Process: The Untold Story of America's German Alien Internees (1997), by Arnold Krammer; (1997), by Arnold Krammer; Inevitable Revolutions: The United States in Central America Inevitable Revolutions: The United States in Central America (1983), by Walter LaFeber; (1983), by Walter LaFeber; Latin America in the 1940s Latin America in the 1940s (1994), edited by David Rock; (1994), edited by David Rock; Rural Guatemala Rural Guatemala (1994), by David McCreery; (1994), by David McCreery; Bitter Grounds: Roots of Revolt in El Salvador Bitter Grounds: Roots of Revolt in El Salvador (1985), by Lisa North; (1985), by Lisa North; Coffee and Power: Revolution and the Rise of Democracy in Central America Coffee and Power: Revolution and the Rise of Democracy in Central America (1997), by Jeffrey M. Paige; (1997), by Jeffrey M. Paige; Coffee in Colombia Coffee in Colombia (1980), by Marco Palacios; (1980), by Marco Palacios; A Brief History of Central America A Brief History of Central America (1989), by Hector Perez-Brignoli; (1989), by Hector Perez-Brignoli; Generations of Settlers Generations of Settlers (1990), by Mario Samper; (1990), by Mario Samper; A Winter in Central America and Mexico A Winter in Central America and Mexico (1885), by Helen J. Sanborn; (1885), by Helen J. Sanborn; Bitter Fruit Bitter Fruit (1983), by Stephen Schlesinger and Stephen Kinzer; (1983), by Stephen Schlesinger and Stephen Kinzer; The Second Conquest of Latin America The Second Conquest of Latin America (1998), edited by Steven C. Topik and Allen Wells; (1998), edited by Steven C. Topik and Allen Wells; Peasants of Costa Rica and the Development of Agrarian Capitalism Peasants of Costa Rica and the Development of Agrarian Capitalism (1980), by Mitch.e.l.l A. Seligson; (1980), by Mitch.e.l.l A. Seligson; Coffee Planters, Workers and Wives Coffee Planters, Workers and Wives (1988), by Verena Stolcke; (1988), by Verena Stolcke; I, Rigoberta Menchu I, Rigoberta Menchu (1983), by Rigoberta Menchu; (1983), by Rigoberta Menchu; Rigoberta Menchu and the Story of All Poor Guatemalans Rigoberta Menchu and the Story of All Poor Guatemalans (1999), by David Stoll; (1999), by David Stoll; Managing the Counterrevolution Managing the Counterrevolution (1994), by Stephen M. Streeter; (1994), by Stephen M. Streeter; The Slave Trade The Slave Trade (1997), by Hugh Thomas; (1997), by Hugh Thomas; Political Economy of the Brazilian State, 1889-1930 Political Economy of the Brazilian State, 1889-1930 (1987), by Steven Topik; (1987), by Steven Topik; Barbarous Mexico Barbarous Mexico (1910), by John Kenneth Turner; (1910), by John Kenneth Turner; El Salvador El Salvador (1973), by Alastair White; (1973), by Alastair White; Silence on the Mountain: Stories of Terror, Betrayal, and Forgetting in Guatemala Silence on the Mountain: Stories of Terror, Betrayal, and Forgetting in Guatemala (2004), by Daniel Wilkinson; (2004), by Daniel Wilkinson; States and Social Evolution States and Social Evolution (1994), by Robert G. Williams; (1994), by Robert G. Williams; Coffee and Democracy in Modern Costa Rica Coffee and Democracy in Modern Costa Rica (1989), by Anthony Winson; (1989), by Anthony Winson; Central America: A Nation Divided Central America: A Nation Divided (2nd ed., 1985), by Ralph Lee Woodward Jr. (2nd ed., 1985), by Ralph Lee Woodward Jr.

For Africa and Asia: The Decolonization of Africa The Decolonization of Africa (1995), by David Birmingham; (1995), by David Birmingham; The African Colonial State in Comparative Perspective The African Colonial State in Comparative Perspective (1994), by Crawford Young; (1994), by Crawford Young; Black Harvest Black Harvest (film about Papua New Guinea coffee, 1992), by Bob Connolly and Robin Anderson; (film about Papua New Guinea coffee, 1992), by Bob Connolly and Robin Anderson; Max Havelaar Max Havelaar (1860), by "Multatuli," Eduard Douwes Dekker; (1860), by "Multatuli," Eduard Douwes Dekker; Decolonization and African Independence Decolonization and African Independence (1988), edited by Prosser Gifford; (1988), edited by Prosser Gifford; Out of Africa Out of Africa (1938), by Isak Dinesen; (1938), by Isak Dinesen; Coffee and Coffeehouses: The Origins of a Social Beverage in the Medieval Near East Coffee and Coffeehouses: The Origins of a Social Beverage in the Medieval Near East (1985), by Ralph S. Hattox; (1985), by Ralph S. Hattox; Coffee, Co-operatives and Culture Coffee, Co-operatives and Culture (1992), by Hans Hedlund; (1992), by Hans Hedlund; The Flame Trees of Thika The Flame Trees of Thika (1982), by Elspeth Huxley; (1982), by Elspeth Huxley; Coffee: The Political Economy of an Export Industry in Papua New Guinea Coffee: The Political Economy of an Export Industry in Papua New Guinea (1992), by Randal G. Stewart; (1992), by Randal G. Stewart; The Pioneers 1825-1900: The Early British Tea and Coffee Planters The Pioneers 1825-1900: The Early British Tea and Coffee Planters (1986), by John Weatherstone; (1986), by John Weatherstone; In Bad Taste? In Bad Taste? (2007), by Ma.s.simo Francesco Marcone, has a chapter on Kopi Luwak coffee; (2007), by Ma.s.simo Francesco Marcone, has a chapter on Kopi Luwak coffee; Coffee: Authentic Ethiopia Coffee: Authentic Ethiopia (2010), by Majka Burhardt. About the suppression of the Montagnards in Vietnam, see Gerald Hickey's (2010), by Majka Burhardt. About the suppression of the Montagnards in Vietnam, see Gerald Hickey's Sons of the Mountains Sons of the Mountains (1982), (1982), Free in the Forest Free in the Forest (1982), and (1982), and Window on a War Window on a War (2002), as well as Human Rights Watch's (2002), as well as Human Rights Watch's Repression of Montagnards Repression of Montagnards (2002) and (2002) and No Sanctuary No Sanctuary (2006). Also see (2006). Also see Christianity and the State in Asia Christianity and the State in Asia (2009), ed. by Julius Bautista and Francis Khek Gee Kim. (2009), ed. by Julius Bautista and Francis Khek Gee Kim.

In the consuming countries, books on advertising, marketing, and general business were useful, such as The Golden Web The Golden Web (1968) and (1968) and A Tower in Babel A Tower in Babel (1966) by Erik Barnouw; (1966) by Erik Barnouw; Personality Not Included: Why Companies Lose Their Authenticity Personality Not Included: Why Companies Lose Their Authenticity (2008), by Rohit Bhargava; (2008), by Rohit Bhargava; The Age of Television The Age of Television (3rd ed., 1972), by Leo Bogart; (3rd ed., 1972), by Leo Bogart; The Golden Years of Broadcasting The Golden Years of Broadcasting (1976), by Robert Campbell; (1976), by Robert Campbell; Your Money's Worth Your Money's Worth (1927), by Stuart Chase and F. J. Schlink; (1927), by Stuart Chase and F. J. Schlink; Made in the USA Made in the USA (1987), by Thomas V. DiBacco; (1987), by Thomas V. DiBacco; Captains of Consciousness Captains of Consciousness (1976), by Stuart Ewen; (1976), by Stuart Ewen; The Mirror Makers The Mirror Makers (1984), by Stephen Fox; (1984), by Stephen Fox; The Lives of William Benton The Lives of William Benton (1969), by Sidney Hyman; (1969), by Sidney Hyman; International Directory of Company Histories International Directory of Company Histories (1990), edited by Lisa Mirabile; (1990), edited by Lisa Mirabile; Chain Stores in America Chain Stores in America (1963), by G.o.dfrey M. Lebhar; (1963), by G.o.dfrey M. Lebhar; Madison Avenue Madison Avenue (1958), by Martin Mayer; (1958), by Martin Mayer; Trail Blazers in Advertising Trail Blazers in Advertising (1926), by Chalmers Lowell Pancoast; (1926), by Chalmers Lowell Pancoast; Scientific Marketing of Coffee Scientific Marketing of Coffee (1960), by James P. Quinn; (1960), by James P. Quinn; Our Master's Voice Our Master's Voice (1934), by James Rorty; (1934), by James Rorty; 22 Immutable Laws of Branding 22 Immutable Laws of Branding (1998), by Al Ries and Laura Ries; (1998), by Al Ries and Laura Ries; Victorian America Victorian America (1991), by Thomas J. Schlereth; (1991), by Thomas J. Schlereth; The Psychology of Advertising The Psychology of Advertising (1913), by Walter Dill Scott; (1913), by Walter Dill Scott; The Manipulators The Manipulators (1976), by Robert Sobel; (1976), by Robert Sobel; A Nation of Salesmen A Nation of Salesmen (1994), by Earl Shorris; (1994), by Earl Shorris; Value Migration Value Migration (1996), by Adrian J. Slywotzky; (1996), by Adrian J. Slywotzky; New and Improved New and Improved (1990), by Richard S. Tedlow; (1990), by Richard S. Tedlow; Adcult Adcult (1996), by James B. Twitch.e.l.l; (1996), by James B. Twitch.e.l.l; Being Direct: Making Advertising Pay Being Direct: Making Advertising Pay (1996), by Lester Wunderman; (1996), by Lester Wunderman; Adventures in Advertising Adventures in Advertising (1948), by John Orr Young. (1948), by John Orr Young.

General books on food included: Food and Drink in History Food and Drink in History, vol. 5 (1979), edited by Robert Forster; The Taste of America The Taste of America (1977), by John L. and Karen Hess; (1977), by John L. and Karen Hess; Seeds of Change: Five Plants That Transformed Mankind Seeds of Change: Five Plants That Transformed Mankind (1986), by Henry Hobhouse; (1986), by Henry Hobhouse; Food of the G.o.ds Food of the G.o.ds (1992), by Terence McKenna; (1992), by Terence McKenna; Sweetness and Power Sweetness and Power (1985), by Sidney Mintz; (1985), by Sidney Mintz; Pharmacotheon Pharmacotheon (1993), by Jonathan Ott; (1993), by Jonathan Ott; Tastes of Paradise Tastes of Paradise (1992), by Wolfgang Schivelbusch; (1992), by Wolfgang Schivelbusch; Food in History Food in History (1973), by Reay Tannahill; (1973), by Reay Tannahill; Much Depends On Dinner Much Depends On Dinner (1986), by Margaret Visser. (1986), by Margaret Visser.

On C. W. Post: Cerealizing America Cerealizing America (1995), by Scott Bruce and Bill Crawford; (1995), by Scott Bruce and Bill Crawford; Cornflake Crusade Cornflake Crusade (1957), by Gerald Carson; (1957), by Gerald Carson; The New Nuts Among the Berries The New Nuts Among the Berries (1977), by Ronald M. Deutsch; (1977), by Ronald M. Deutsch; Charles William Post Charles William Post (1993), by Peyton Paxson. (1993), by Peyton Paxson.

On psychologist John Watson: Mechanical Man Mechanical Man (1989), by Kerry W. Buckley. (1989), by Kerry W. Buckley.

Relevant history books of North America and the world included: The Big Change The Big Change (1952) and (1952) and Only Yesterday Only Yesterday (1931), by Frederick Lewis Allen; (1931), by Frederick Lewis Allen; The Long Thirst: Prohibition in America The Long Thirst: Prohibition in America (1976), by Thomas M. Coffey; (1976), by Thomas M. Coffey; The Americans: A Social History The Americans: A Social History (1969), by J. C. Furnas; (1969), by J. C. Furnas; Modern Times Modern Times (1983), by Paul Johnson; (1983), by Paul Johnson; American Policies Abroad American Policies Abroad (1929), by Chester Lloyd Jones et al.; (1929), by Chester Lloyd Jones et al.; Manias, Panics and Crashes Manias, Panics and Crashes (1989), by Charles P. Kindleberger; (1989), by Charles P. Kindleberger; The Boston Tea Party The Boston Tea Party (1964) (1964), by Benjamin Woods Labaree; by Benjamin Woods Labaree; The Fifties The Fifties (1977), by Douglas T. Miller and Marion Nowak; (1977), by Douglas T. Miller and Marion Nowak; The New Winter Soldiers The New Winter Soldiers (1996), by Richard R. Moser; (1996), by Richard R. Moser; The Sugar Trust The Sugar Trust (1964), by Jack Simpson Mullins; (1964), by Jack Simpson Mullins; Fighting Liberal Fighting Liberal (1945), by George W. Norris; (1945), by George W. Norris; The Great Good Place The Great Good Place (1989), by Ray Oldenburg; (1989), by Ray Oldenburg; The Early English Coffee House The Early English Coffee House (1893), by Edward Robinson; (1893), by Edward Robinson; We Say No to Your War We Say No to Your War (1994), by Jeff Richard Schutts; (1994), by Jeff Richard Schutts; Hard Times Hard Times (1970), by Studs Terkel; (1970), by Studs Terkel; History and Reminiscences of Lower Wall Street and Vicinity History and Reminiscences of Lower Wall Street and Vicinity (1914), by Abram Wakeman; (1914), by Abram Wakeman; The Life of Billy Yank The Life of Billy Yank (1952), by Bell Irvin Wiley. (1952), by Bell Irvin Wiley.

On shade-grown coffee and migratory birds: Birds Over Troubled Waters Birds Over Troubled Waters (1991), by Russell Greenbeg and Susan Lumpkin; (1991), by Russell Greenbeg and Susan Lumpkin; Proceedings, Memorias: 1st Sustainable Coffee Congress Proceedings, Memorias: 1st Sustainable Coffee Congress (1997), edited by Robert A. Rice et al.; (1997), edited by Robert A. Rice et al.; Coffee, Conservation and Commerce in the Western Hemisphere Coffee, Conservation and Commerce in the Western Hemisphere (1996), by Robert A. Rice and Justin R. Ward; (1996), by Robert A. Rice and Justin R. Ward; Silence of the Songbirds Silence of the Songbirds, by Bridget Stutchbury (2007).

See the Acknowledgments for collections and archives used for this book. In addition, I consulted numerous lawsuits and government doc.u.ments, including the Congressional Record Congressional Record, various hearings on coffee, FTC reports, the State Department's country study volumes, and the like. Articles from the business press and popular magazines rounded out the research, along with various Web sites.

LIST OF INTERVIEWS.

The following interviews were conducted December 1, 1995-March 15, 1999, and July 1, 2008-November 1, 2009.

David Abedon Betty Hannstein Adams Richard N. Adams Walter Adams Pamela Aden Mane Alves Dominic Ammirati Tommy Ammirati Irene Angelico Andrea Appelwick Jose Julio Arivillaga Jose Armado Cheves Philip Aronson Steve Aronson Donald Atha Peter Baer Albert Baez Lamar Bagby Jerry Baldwin Gonzalo Barillas Jairo Alfonso Bautista Stephen Bauer Andrea Ba.s.s Bert Beekman Ed Behr Frank Bendana Ian Bersten Bernie Biedak Jack Binek G. Barry "Skip" Blakely Oren Bloostein George Boecklin Lindsey Bolger Jim Bowe Dennis Boyer Kathy Brahimi Edward Bramah Don Breen Anthony Bucalo Ray Bustos Monica Patricia Caceres Gabriel Cadena Gomez Jim Cannell Anthony Caputo Silvia Carboni Maria del Carmen Calix Roger Castellon Orue Tim Castle Karen Cebreros Andrea Chacon Esperanza Chacon Tom Charleville Joe Charleville Holly Chase Michael Chu Stephen Coats Bob Cody Major Cohen Jerry Collins Steve Colten Paul Comey Peter Condaxis Ron Cortez Neal Cowan Dan c.o.x Paul Crocetta Joaquin Cuadra Lacayo David Dallis Kenneth Davids Gwilym Davies Stuart Daw Martin Diedrich David Donaldson Herb Donaldson Pablo Dubois Owen Dugan Kimberly Ea.s.son Mike Ebert Laura Edghill Craig Edwards Marty Elkin Rob Everts Moreno Faina Francis Miles Filleul Myra Fiore Gary Fischer Bill Fishbein Victoria Fisich.e.l.li Jaime Fortuno Brian Franklin Hideko Furukawa Paul Gallant Ryan Gamble Fred Gardner Patrice Gautier Gianfranco Giotta Peter Giuliano Stephen Gliessman Miguel Gomez Jorge Gonzalez Jane Goodall Larry Gorchow Sterling Gordon Angel Martin Granados Gonzales Sanja Gould David Griswold Carolyn Hall Doug Hall Tom Harding Jerry Harrington Barbara Hausner Dub Hay Adalheidur Hedinsdottir Carmen Hernandez Melendez David Higgins Eirikur Hilmarsson Will Hobhouse Don Holly Fred Houk Jr.

John J. Hourihan George Howell John Hughes Richard von Hunersdorff Andrea Illy Ernesto Illy Susan Irwin Jorge Isaac Mendez Jay Isais Roberta Jaffe Stephen Jaffe Michael Jimenez Phil Johnson Chuck Jones Phil Jones Phyllis Jordan Julius Kahn Jeanne Kail Elizabeth Kane Paul Katzeff Frederick S. M. Kawuma Jim Kharouf Trina Kleist Kevin Knox Erna Knutsen Suryakant Kothari Russ Kramer Stanley Kuehn Eddy Kuhl Edward Kvetko David Latimer David Latourelle Gerardo Leon-York Carl Leonard Robert Letovsky Eduardo Libreros Earl Lingle Jim Lingle Ted Lingle Celcius Lodder Peter Longo Bill McAlpin Sandy McAlpine Joe McBratney Jane McCabe Colin McClung Rella MacDougall Alton McEwen Becky McKinnon Carrie MacKillop Charlie Magill Ruth Magill Mitch.e.l.l Margulis Oscar Marin John Martinez John Mastro Tom Matzen Scott McMartin Ernesto Mendez Maritza Midence Sherri Miller Bruce Milletto Doug Mitch.e.l.l Graham Mitch.e.l.l s.h.i.+rin Moayyad Melissa Maria Molina Icias Raul Molina Mejia Klaus Monkemuller Fernando Montes Dave Moran Steve Morris Steve Moynihan Kerry Muir Marsha Nagley-Moody Donna Neal Robert Nelson Stanley Newkirk Frank O'Dea Tos.h.i.+ Okamoto Kate Olgiati Samuel Olivieri Dave Olsen Simeon Onchere Nestor Osorio Carlos Paniagua Zuniga Alfred Peet Humberto Pena Tony Pennachio Alvaro Peralta Gedea Hector Perez Brignoli Laura Peterson Price Peterson Marino Petracco Rick Peyser Jon Phelps Dawn Pinaud Ruben Pineda f.a.gioli Jaime Polit Joanne Ranney Paul Ralston Alejandro Renijo Luciano Repetto Jim Reynolds Ric Rhinehart Dory Rice Paul Rice Robert Rice Stefano Ripamonti Mark Ritchie Claudia Roden Connie Roderick Oscar Rodriguez Edgar Rojas Jonathan Rosenthal Kris Rosentrater Neil Rosser Steve Sabol Mario Samper Marcus Samuelson Luz Maria Sanchez Grady Saunders Matt Saurage Donald Schoenholt David Schomer Steve Schulman Howard Schultz Mary Seggerman Jo Shannon Joanne Shaw Elise Wolter Sherman Roberio Silva Michael Slater Julio C. Solozano Duane Sorenson Susie Spindler Jim Stewart Bob Stiller William Stixrud David Stoll Dana Stone David Stonehill Norm Storkel Mike Sullivan Alecia Swasy Gary Talboy Karen Techeira Josh Tewksbury Dave Tilgner Peter Torrebiarte Steven Topik Art Trotman Timothy Tulloch Jim Twiford Mark Upson Ricardo Valvidieso Jerry Van Horne Matt Vanek Pablo Vargas Morales Roland Veit Rodrigo Veloso Marcelo Vieira Carter Vincent Patty Vincent Bill Walters Irwin Warren Geoff Watts Craig Weicker Jon Wettstein Jonathan White Robert L. White Elizabeth Whitlow T. Carroll Wilson Randy Wirth Guy Wood Jeremy Woods Sandy Wynne Sandy Yusen Saul Zabar Cecelia Zarate-Laum

ILl.u.s.tRATION CREDITS.

Front Matter and Part Openers Frontispiece: Ukers, All About Coffee. All About Coffee.

Kaldi and his goats (p. 1): Ukers, All About Coffee. All About Coffee.

Arbuckle Brothers ad (p. 107): Simmons Spice Mill Simmons Spice Mill, June 1916, 597.

Postwar diner (p. 213): Holiday Holiday, September 1949, 65.

Frasier photo (p. 263): photo (p. 263): Tea & Coffee Trade Journal Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, August 1998.

Author with Herman Gabriel Camel (p. 386): Photo by Betty Hannstein Adams.

Insert One Arab sipping coffee: Ukers, All About Coffee. All About Coffee.

Womens Pet.i.tion Against Coffee: Ukers, All About Coffee. All About Coffee.

Cross-section of a coffee cherry: Knox and Huffaker, Coffee Basics Coffee Basics, ill.u.s.tration by Steve Katagiri.

Families harvesting in Guatemala: CIRMA organization, Antigua, Guatemala. Lt. Gabriel Mathieu: Ukers, All About Coffee. All About Coffee.

Factory workers: Ukers, All About Coffee. All About Coffee.

Lion Coffee package: Arbuckles' Coffee Museum, Cedar Rapids, Iowa.

Arbuckles' Ariosa Coffee package: Arbuckles' Coffee Museum, Cedar Rapids, Iowa.

Ariosa poster: Fugate, Arbuckles. Arbuckles.

John Arbuckle: Spice Mill Spice Mill, September 1910, cover.

The Corner in Coffee ill.u.s.tration: Brady, ill.u.s.tration: Brady, The Corner in Coffee. The Corner in Coffee.

Mayan workers: Stanford University Special Collections.

Hermann Sielcken: Tea & Coffee Trade Journal Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, October 1921, 20a.

Joel Cheek: Tea & Coffee Trade Journal Tea & Coffee Trade J