Mark Bittman's Kitchen Express Part 2

Charred Tomato Bisque Good hot or cold.

Heat the broiler. Cut four or six large ripe tomatoes into thin slices and spread them out on a rimmed baking sheet, along with three smashed garlic cloves, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Broil until the tomatoes are beginning to blacken, turning as necessary, about eight minutes total; remove the garlic as soon as it turns golden. Puree everything with a cup of cream and a half-cup of basil leaves. Warm gently in a saucepan or chill for a few minutes in the freezer. Serve with grilled cheese sandwiches or breadsticks.

Migas Crouton hash, really; in place of the beans, any kind of protein works, from eggs (raw or hard-boiled) to nuts to sliced chorizo.

Cut several slices of old bread into cubes. Heat a film of olive oil in a large skillet and fry the bread, seasoning with salt, pepper, pimenton, and c.u.min as it cooks. Remove to a large bowl, add a little more oil to the pan if necessary, and cook precooked or canned chickpeas until they're golden and beginning to crisp. Cut a bunch of Swiss chard into ribbons and add that to the pan. Stir-fry until the greens wilt, then toss the mixture with the bread cubes. Serve with lemon wedges.

Goat Cheese Salad Serve on a bed of greens, on slices of toasted bread, or on a baked potato.

Mash soft goat cheese with a tiny bit of minced garlic, salt and pepper, chopped fresh mint, thinly sliced red onion, chopped ripe tomato, and olive oil. Add a handful of pine nuts or pistachios if you like.

Panzanella Chewy and juicy all in one bite.

Cut ciabatta or other good bread into cubes. Chop ripe tomatoes, oil-cured black olives, anchovies, garlic, and capers; combine with red wine vinegar, olive oil, and lots of black pepper. Add the bread, tossing to absorb the dressing. Garnish with fresh chopped basil and shaved Parmesan cheese.

Tuna Tabouleh Serve on romaine leaves with tomato and yogurt.

Soak about one-half cup of fine-grain bulgur in boiling water to cover. Peel, seed, and chop a cuc.u.mber and toss with lots and lots of chopped parsley, scallions, and fresh mint. Squeeze the bulgur dry and add to the cuc.u.mber mixture, dressing with lemon juice (again: lots), olive oil, salt, and pepper. Use a fork to add a can or two of good-quality tuna; toss to fluff the salad and serve.

Black Bean and Mango Salad Super-colorful, and great wrapped in a flour tortilla with shredded lettuce.

Rinse and drain a can of black beans (or use a couple cups of homemade beans) and combine with a diced mango, a chopped red bell pepper, two or three chopped scallions, and some minced fresh chile. Drizzle with olive oil, lime juice, salt, and pepper. Toss with fresh chopped mint or cilantro and serve.

Mexican Dry-Corn Salad Use frozen corn if you're feeling lazy.

Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add a small chopped red onion, a couple of cups of corn kernels, and a diced fresh chile; cook and stir until the corn is browned. Mash an avocado with a dollop of sour cream or plain yogurt and a squeeze of fresh lime or lemon juice; add chopped cilantro and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss the avocado mixture with the corn and serve in a bowl with some shredded iceberg lettuce, chopped tomato, and tortilla chips.

Squid Salad with Basil Mayo Try stuffing this in tomatoes.

Heat a grill or broiler. Toss whole, cleaned squid with olive oil and salt and pepper. Grill or broil for about two minutes on each side or until opaque but still tender. Meanwhile, toss together sliced radishes, chopped red bell pepper, thinly sliced red onion, and a squeeze of lemon; set aside. Finely chop one cup of fresh basil and stir in one-half cup of mayonnaise. When the squid is cool, cut into rings and toss with the radish mixture; serve on salad greens with a dollop of the mayonnaise on top.

Summertime Shrimp Salad Toss sh.e.l.led shrimp in olive oil, salt, and pepper, and grill or broil until cooked through. Zest and juice a lemon and combine with olive oil, chopped cilantro, salt, and pepper. Add diced red onion, chopped cuc.u.mber, and chunks of ripe peaches, plums, or melon. Serve the shrimp on top or chop it up a bit and mix it right in the salad.

Soba Noodles and Cuc.u.mber with Dipping Sauce Perfect hot-weather food; add a bit of freshly grated ginger or wasabi for more spice and top with bits of cooked meat or tofu if you like.

Boil and salt water for pasta; meanwhile, combine a quarter cup of chicken stock or water, three tablespoons of soy sauce, two tablespoons of mirin, and a teaspoon of sugar in a bowl; mix to dissolve the sugar. Cook the noodles for about four minutes, then rinse under cold water. Serve a nest of the noodles along with sliced cuc.u.mbers in a bowl (set over ice cubes if you like), with a small bowl of the dipping sauce on the side, garnished with chopped scallions.

Four-Bean Salad A great picnic salad, because the beans only get better as they marinate in the dressing.

Cut about a cup of green beans into one-inch pieces and blanch in boiling, salted water until crisp-tender; drain and run under cold water to stop the cooking. In a bowl, combine a cup or two each of cooked or canned (drain first) kidney or other red beans, cannellini or other white beans, and chickpeas. Add the green beans, a small, diced red onion, and some chopped parsley or chives. Dress with olive oil, sherry vinegar or some other good strong vinegar, Dijon mustard, salt, and pepper.

Prosciutto, Peach, and Mozzarella Salad Salty, sweet, creamy, and unbeatable.

For each person, cut a fresh peach into eight wedges. Tear prosciutto and sliced mozzarella into bite-size pieces. Dress mixed greens with olive oil, lemon juice, and salt and pepper. Toss in the peaches, prosciutto, and cheese and serve.

Warm Corn Salad with Ham Like substantial succotash.

Put a half pound or so of good chopped ham into a hot skillet with a little olive oil and a chopped onion. Brown, stirring once in a while. Add the kernels stripped from four ears of corn, along with a handful of frozen lima or fava beans; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and stir in a splash of wine vinegar and some chopped fresh parsley or sage. Serve with thick tomato slices.

Avocado Crab Salad with Mixed Herb Salad An impressive, restaurant-style dish.

Whisk together sherry or rice vinegar, Dijon mustard, olive oil, minced shallot, and some salt and pepper. Halve avocados and remove the pits (leave the skin on); cut a thin piece off the bottom of each half so it sits on a plate. Make a salad of fresh herb leaves and sprigs, using chervil, parsley, tarragon, dill, mint, or basil in any combination. Fill each avocado half with lump crabmeat and put a handful of the herbs and a few thin slices of lemon alongside. Drizzle the dressing over all.

Shrimp and Cherry Tomato Salad Soy sauce is the secret ingredient here.

Stir-fry peeled chopped shrimp and grated ginger in a little sesame oil. Set aside while you halve a pint or two of cherry tomatoes and toss in a salad bowl with a splash of soy sauce. Add the shrimp mixture and a handful of fresh basil (preferably Thai); let rest for a couple of minutes and then serve, with rice crackers.

Arugula with Balsamic Strawberries and Goat Cheese A surprisingly wonderful salad.

Hull and slice a pint of strawberries and put them in a large salad bowl. Toss with two tablespoons balsamic vinegar and several grinds of black pepper. Let sit for five minutes. Add a bunch of arugula, some crumbled goat cheese, and a sprinkle of salt; drizzle with olive oil, toss, and serve.

Feta and Watermelon Salad A terrific combination.

Combine watermelon b.a.l.l.s (or cubes) in a bowl with crumbled feta cheese, sliced radishes, chopped fresh chives, and a few drops of olive oil; toss well. Spoon over a crisp wedge of iceberg lettuce, making sure to use all the extra juices left in the bottom of the bowl.

Broiled Eggplant with Miso-Walnut Vinaigrette Toss with soba noodles or serve on a bed of greens.

Heat the broiler. Halve small eggplants lengthwise (or slice large ones) and rub them all over with vegetable oil and salt. While they're broiling, whisk together some miso, chopped walnuts, soy sauce, and rice vinegar. Cook the eggplant until it's browned and soft, then remove to a platter and pour the dressing over all. Garnish with chopped scallions.

Duck Wraps with Plums Fresh fruit updates Peking duck.

Buy roast duck and take the meat off the bones. Cut several ripe plums into wedges. Heat vegetable oil in a skillet and add some thinly sliced leeks (the white part only). When soft, add the duck and stir-fry for a minute or two, then add the plums, cooking and stirring until they're just warmed through. Roll in small flour tortillas or lettuce leaves, and serve with hoisin sauce for dipping.

Summer Rolls with Barbecued Pork An excellent use for any leftover meat or seafood.

Shred the pork and toss with a splash of fish sauce, some chiles, a squeeze of lime, and some chopped mint. Dip a sheet of rice paper into a bowl of hot water for about two seconds. Turn it and dip the piece you were holding in the water; lay on a damp towel. Put a little of the pork mixture at the bottom of the wrapper; roll and fold as you would a burrito. Serve with salted shredded cabbage tossed with sesame oil and rice vinegar.

Sausage and Grape Bruschetta Red grapes are prettier here.

Squeeze two Italian sausages from their casings and break the meat into a hot skillet with a little olive oil and a chopped red onion. Cook, stirring once in a while, until browned all over. Meanwhile, cut several thick slices of good Italian bread, brush with olive oil, and toast or broil until crisp outside but tender inside. When the sausage is done, stir in about a pound of grapes, mas.h.i.+ng a bit to break some of them up. Cook until just warmed through. Top the bread with the sausage mixture and pan juices.

Fish Tacos Any firm white fish works well here; or try crab or shrimp.

Cook a chopped red onion in olive oil for a minute or two. When it's soft, add a big pinch of ground c.u.min or coriander and some salt and pepper. Keeping the heat relatively high, add a pound or so of fish fillets and stir to break them into chunks, cooking until they're just opaque. Off heat, squeeze lime juice over the mixture and sc.r.a.pe up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Warm corn tortillas and fill with the fish mixture. Top with shredded cabbage, chopped tomato or tomatillos, a splash of hot sauce, and a dollop of sour cream.

Tuna-Anchovy Sandwich You can use this to stuff celery sticks, too.

Mash olive oilpacked tuna with some anchovy fillets and minced garlic. Squeeze lemon juice over all and fold in some chopped black olives, halved cherry tomatoes, and chopped fresh basil or parsley. Spread on good crusty bread or serve with crisp lettuce cups for wrapping.

Grilled Tomato Sandwich with Blue Cheese Spread Thinly sliced roast beef will bulk this up considerably.

Mash blue cheese with a little softened cream cheese, chopped chives, and just enough milk to make it spreadable. Smear a thin layer on slices of good bread. Top with ripe tomato, salt, and pepper. Make sandwiches and slip into a b.u.t.tered hot frying pan. (If you're making more than one sandwich, a.s.semble them on a baking sheet and broil them on both sides.) Press down gently when you flip the sandwich and keep cooking until golden and gooey. Cut on the diagonal and serve with pickles or chow chow.

Shrimp-Tomato-Arugula Wraps Just what it sounds like.

Mince garlic and cook in vegetable oil till just fragrant, less than a minute. Add peeled shrimp and cook until pink, about three minutes more. Make a dressing of plain yogurt, lemon juice, chopped cilantro, salt, and pepper. Warm large flour tortillas (whole wheat are nice), then spread yogurt mixture on each tortilla and add arugula, sliced seeded tomato, the shrimp, and some lettuce. Roll tightly, cut in halves or quarters, and serve.

Caramelized Caprese Sandwich Halve good crusty rolls or squares of corn bread or focaccia and toast under the broiler. Slice ripe tomatoes crosswise into thick rounds; spread out on a broiler pan, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and quickly brown on both sides. Serve open-faced: bread first (olive bread is awesome), then sliced fresh mozzarella and fresh basil leaves, topped with the tomato slices; drizzle with pan juices.

Portobello Burgers with Tomato Mayonnaise You can grill or broil the lettuce and tomato too, if you like.

Stem large portobellos; cut a large onion into thick slices. Brush both with oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper, then grill or broil until tender. Meanwhile, puree a large ripe, seeded tomato in a food processor with good-quality mayo, a clove of garlic, and a few fresh herb sprigs if you've got them handy. Halve rolls or buns, spread them with the mayonnaise, and fill with mushroom and onion, adding lettuce and more tomato. Serve.

Grilled Fish Sandwich with Chile-Lime-Carrot Relish Mayo scented with chile and lime is good as a dressing here too; and use tomatoes if you can't find tomatillos.

Grate two or three carrots and combine with lime juice, chili powder, minced garlic, salt, and pepper; press down to soften the carrots a bit. Brush any st.u.r.dy white fish with olive oil and grill until done, about three minutes per side. Split good-quality rolls; spread carrot relish on the bottom half and add sliced tomatillos, cilantro sprigs, and the fish.

Five-Spice Lobster Sandwich Or crab, or shrimp, or mixed seafood.

Combine a large pinch of five-spice powder with two tablespoons soy sauce, one tablespoon rice vinegar, and two teaspoons sesame oil. Add two chopped scallions, grated ginger, minced garlic, and minced fresh chile if you like. Mince a red bell pepper and add it to the dressing along with about two cups shredded cooked lobster. Mix well with a fork, taste, and add some salt and pepper. Spread on split baguette or rice cakes.

Blackened Salmon Sandwich Grind together some c.u.min seed, fennel seed, dried oregano, dried thyme, paprika, a little bit of cayenne, and salt; rub all over skinned salmon fillets. Heat a heavy skillet until almost smoking, add a film of oil, and cook salmon until well browned, about four minutes; then flip and cook until medium-done. Layer thickly sliced bread or rolls with thin-sliced onion, plain yogurt, arugula leaves, and salmon.

Black Bean Tostada In Mexico, this is called a clayuda. clayuda.

Heat precooked or canned black beans, adding ground c.u.min, chili powder, fresh oregano, and salt. Shred cabbage and chop a few radishes or a chunk of jicama; grate some Mexican melting cheese like queso Oaxaca or cotija, and slice some smoked chorizo or other cooked sausage. Drain the beans and mash roughly. Lightly toast large tortillas under the broiler, then top with the beans, the cheese, and the meat. Return to the broiler to melt the cheese and serve, topped with the vegetables and a dollop of sour cream; put lime wedges on the side.

Taco Slaw Not your usual restaurant salad.

Load a big bowl up with shredded cabbage. Add precooked or canned drained pinto beans, a handful of corn kernels, lots of chopped tomatoes and red onions, sliced red bell pepper and avocado, bits of chopped smoked chorizo, and crumbled queso fresco. Break up some tortilla chips on top. Put a bunch of fresh cilantro in the blender with lime juice, olive oil, salt, pepper, and as much fresh or dried chile as you can stand. Give the mixture a good whirl, then use it to dress and toss the salad. Serve with crema for last-minute drizzling.

Microwaved Honey Eggplant Sort of amazing.

Combine a half cup each of chopped parsley and breadcrumbs with three tablespoons olive oil, two tablespoons honey, one minced garlic clove, and a pinch of salt. Cut one large or two medium eggplants crosswise into one-inch slices; then score the top of each slice. Put the slices in a dish and spread the breadcrumb mixture over the tops, pressing it into the slits. Partially cover with wax paper and microwave on high power for about five minutes. Remove the paper and cook another two or three minutes, until very soft. Sprinkle with lemon juice and serve with yogurt on the side.

Balsamic Beef, Radicchio, and Romaine Serve as a warm salad, or skip the lettuce and toss the beef mixture with pasta.

Shred a medium head of radicchio and a head of romaine lettuce. Brown about a half pound of ground beef in some olive oil with salt and pepper, then add a chopped red onion, a chopped garlic clove, and a chopped fresh red chile (or use a pinch of dried flakes). When the vegetables begin to get soft, add the radicchio, a splash of balsamic vinegar, and a little water. Cook until the radicchio is caramelized and the sauce thickens. Toss in a big bowl with the lettuce, adding more olive oil if needed; pa.s.s grated Parmesan at the table if you like.

Swiss Chard with White Beans and Pancetta Or bacon.

Dice a quarter pound of pancetta and sear in olive oil until golden and getting crisp. Meanwhile, take a large bunch of Swiss chard and chop, keeping stems and leaves separate. Add the stems to the pancetta; when they soften a bit, add the leaves. Stir until wilted, then add a quarter cup of raisins, a quarter cup of pine nuts, and a couple cups of precooked or canned navy beans (rinsed and drained). Warm until heated through and serve with toasted olive bread or toss with pasta.

String Beans with Bacon and Tomatoes Like stewed vegetables, only fresher.

Chop a fair amount of thick bacon and fry with some sliced onions in a deep skillet until the meat is cooked and the onions are soft. Pour off some of the fat if there's a lot; add string beans and cook and stir until brightly colored and beginning to soften. Stir in chopped ripe tomatoes and cook until just breaking apart. Garnish with chopped parsley and serve over white rice or thick slices of toast.

Zucchini with Tomatoes and Chorizo Serve on crusty bread or pasta.

Cut zucchini into quarter-inch disks; cook crumbled (Mexican) chorizo in olive oil for about three minutes, or until beginning to brown, then add diced shallot or onion and minced garlic; continue cooking until the shallot is translucent, a couple of minutes more. Add the zucchini and some chopped tomatoes; cover and cook until the zucchini is tender, about five more minutes. Add some lemon zest and juice, season with salt and pepper, and serve.

Shrimp with Toasted Coconut Great over a bed of jasmine rice.

Toast some shredded unsweetened coconut, shaking the pan to keep it from burning, until just golden; remove and set aside. Add some oil to the pan, along with peeled shrimp and some curry powder, and cook until the shrimp are pink. Add enough coconut milk to make the mixture saucy, along with some soy sauce and the toasted coconut. Serve garnished with fresh cilantro.

Lettuce Wraps Incredibly easy and impressive.

Toss good-quality shredded cooked chicken, cooked ground meat, or lump crabmeat with minced shallot or red onion, chopped cilantro, sesame oil, minced Thai chile, salt, and pepper. Take the large outer leaves from heads of Bibb or Boston lettuce, put a couple of tablespoons of the filling mixture in the middle of each leaf, then roll up like a burrito to eat.

Grilled Vegetables with Quinoa Don't hesitate to add leftover shredded chicken, crumbled sausage, or even some fried tofu.

Heat the grill and cook the quinoa. Thread quartered shallots or red onions on one skewer, and cherry tomatoes and quartered mushrooms on another (they'll cook more quickly than the onions). Brush the vegetables with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill the vegetables, turning as needed, until browned and done, about six minutes. Remove the vegetables from the skewers and toss them with the quinoa in large bowl; mix gently, season with more olive oil and salt and pepper as needed, garnish with freshly chopped basil, and serve.

Black and Blue Tuna Combine sus.h.i.+-grade tuna steaks with a lot of grated ginger, some minced garlic, and a splash each of oil, soy sauce, fish sauce, and lime juice. Marinate about five minutes, then dredge in sesame seeds. For rare, sear each side for about two minutes on a hot grill or in a lightly oiled, well-seasoned pan. Slice and serve over a bed of watercress.

Tuna with Pineapple, Cuc.u.mber, and Avocado Try using toasted nori instead of lavash for the wrap.

Cut sus.h.i.+-grade tuna into quarter-inch-thick slices; slice avocado and pineapple into pretty much equal-sized pieces. Very thinly slice a cuc.u.mber. Mix together minced ginger, lemon juice, soy sauce, and a little fish sauce. Lay cuc.u.mber slices on lavash or other wrap-type bread, overlapping them slightly, then top with the tuna, avocado, and pineapple; drizzle with the dressing, throw in a few sprigs of cilantro, and roll up.

Grilled Fish Kebabs Try any solid, meaty fish here.

Make a paste from a few cloves of garlic; salt; pepper; lemon juice; chopped fresh oregano, marjoram, or parsley; and olive oil. Cut fish into two-inch chunks, rub well with the paste, and thread onto skewers. Grill for about five minutes, turning as needed, until the fish is firm and slightly blackened. Serve with lemon wedges.

Grilled Fish with Peach and Tomato Salad Again, use whatever fish is fresh and firm.

Brush the fish with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Slice an equal number of tomatoes and peaches and put them in a serving dish with diced red onion, chopped cilantro, olive oil, lime juice, salt, and pepper. Grill the fish, turning once, until just done, then serve with the salad and a slice of lemon or lime.

Grilled Sardines with Summer Squash Fresh sardines are fabulous on the grill.

Brush sardines (figure three or four per serving) with olive oil and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and freshly chopped oregano. Slice zucchini and yellow summer squash into half-inch-thick pieces. Brush the squash with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill the squash until it's softening, about four minutes per side. Grill the sardines a little less, two or three minutes per side. Serve the sardines over a bed of alternating green and yellow squash, with lots of lemon wedges on the side.

Grilled Fish with Spinach and Tomatoes Use any white-fleshed fish fillets or steaks here.

Brush the fillets with olive oil and season them with salt and pepper; grill until done. Meanwhile, cook a couple of cloves of garlic in olive oil until fragrant, then add spinach and keep cooking until just wilted, just a couple of minutes; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Thinly slice a couple of tomatoes, and layer on plates; drizzle with olive oil. Top with the spinach and fish and serve with lemon.

Scallop and Peach Ceviche Plums and pineapple are also terrific here.

Dice high-quality scallops and peaches into equal-sized cubes about a quarter-to a half-inch square. Toss them together in a bowl, along with finely diced red onion, finely chopped tarragon, lots of lime juice (the acid in the lime juice will "cook" the scallops in a few minutes), salt, and pepper. Adjust the seasonings and serve.

Grilled Fish with Raw Pineapple Chutney Any st.u.r.dy, meaty fish will work.

Combine diced pineapple with chopped scallions, chopped cilantro, salt, pepper, lime juice, and a little cayenne. Brush the fish with olive oil and season with salt and pepper and a squeeze of lime juice. Grill the fish until done. Serve topped with a couple of spoonfuls of the chutney.

Braised Fish with Cherry Tomatoes A lovely summer dinner served with good bread and a crisp salad.

Cut cherry tomatoes into halves. Sprinkle them and some st.u.r.dy white fish steaks or fillets with salt, pepper, and fresh or dried oregano. Heat some olive oil and add the fish; cook until it begins to brown, then turn and add a cup of not-too-dry white wine, some minced garlic, and the tomatoes. Bring to a simmer and cook until the fish is done (a thin-bladed knife inserted into its center will meet little resistance). Serve in soup bowls with the broth.

Grilled Watermelon and Shrimp Skewers Nice with basmati rice mixed with toasted coconut.

Light a charcoal or gas grill. Alternate chunks of watermelon and large shrimp on skewers; brush with olive oil and sprinkle with curry powder, salt, and pepper. Grill, turning as needed, until the shrimp is opaque. Garnish with chopped scallions and pistachios and serve with lime wedges.

Crab Cake Burger Dredging the patties in breadcrumbs instead of mixing them with the crab makes for a fantastically crisp crust.

Combine about a pound of crabmeat with a few tablespoons of mayonnaise, a tablespoon of Dijon mustard, a couple of tablespoons of freshly chopped parsley, salt, and pepper; form into patties. Gently coat the patties in fresh breadcrumbs and sear in hot oil. Cook the patties until they're just golden, turning once. Serve on good-quality buns or rolls topped with lettuce and tomato if you like; garnish with slices of lemon.

Shrimp with Cilantro, Garlic, and Lime Serve alone, over noodles or rice, or even as part of a salad.

In a large bowl, combine a handful or so of chopped cilantro, some minced garlic, the zest and juice of a lime, a tablespoon of fish sauce, salt, and pepper. In vegetable oil, cook a pound of shrimp until pink and no longer translucent, three or four minutes. (Or use squid; cook it for even less time.) Toss the shrimp in the cilantro mixture and serve.