Mark Bittman's Kitchen Express Part 3

Shrimp, Scallop, and Cherry Tomato Kebabs Use chunks of firm fish here too, if you like.

Skewer shrimp, scallops, and cherry tomatoes, alternating fish and tomatoes. Brush with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill the kebabs until the fish is done and the tomatoes are soft and slightly blackened, turning as needed. Sprinkle with chopped parsley (or a mixture of parsley and minced onion) and serve with lemon.

Bacon-Wrapped Scallops Modernizing an old fave.

In a pan, cook the bacon until it's pliable and golden, about five minutes; drain on paper towels and set aside. Season the scallops with salt and pepper, wrap each in a half-slice of bacon, and secure with a toothpick; sear the bundles, turning once, until the scallops are opaque and the bacon is nicely browned, about five minutes total. Dress greens lightly with olive oil and fresh lemon juice and serve the scallops on top.

Stir-Fried Corn and Clams Fun to eat with chopsticks or your hands.

Cut ears of corn crosswise into one-inch slices. Put a film of vegetable oil in the bottom of a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add some ginger and garlic and the corn and cook and stir until coated and beginning to color, just a minute or two. Add scrubbed clams, a splash each of water and white wine or sherry, and a handful of fermented black beans; cover and cook until the clams open. Taste and adjust the seasoning and serve, garnished with chopped scallions or cilantro and lime wedges.

Grilled Lemon-Tarragon Chicken Tarragon and chicken are a cla.s.sic and wonderful marriage.

Mix the zest of a lemon with some chopped fresh tarragon (no more than a teaspoon or so; it's strong). Brush thin chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s with olive oil, smear with the zest and tarragon, and season with salt and pepper. Grill the chicken, turning it once, until cooked through. Squeeze more lemon juice over the chicken, then serve, with coa.r.s.e-grain mustard on the side.

Grilled Chicken Kebabs It takes just a couple of minutes more to slice up some eggplant and zucchini and throw them onto the grill with the kebabs.

Cut boneless chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s or thighs into chunks. Combine a teaspoon of paprika, a teaspoon of cinnamon, a dash of nutmeg, salt, and pepper together in a small bowl. Toss the chicken with a few tablespoons of olive oil and some fresh lemon juice; sprinkle well with the spice mixture. Thread the chicken onto skewers and grill until done, then serve with lemon wedges.

Grilled Chicken Paillards with Endive and Radicchio The grilled lemons make this spectacular.

Pound chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s to quarter-inch thickness, brush them with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Cut the endive and radicchio into halves, brush the cut side with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Cut three or four lemons in half and brush the cut side with olive oil. On a hot grill, cook the chicken, turning it once, until it's brown and done, about three minutes per side; cook the endive, radicchio, and lemons, cut side down, until browned, about four minutes. Serve the chicken with the vegetables, squeezing the grilled lemon over everything.

Jerk Chicken Serve with black beans and rice or couscous.

In a food processor, combine a half cup of white vinegar, two tablespoons of rum, one or two habanero chiles, a red onion, one tablespoon of dried thyme, two teaspoons of salt, one teaspoon of cracked black peppercorns, one tablespoon each of allspice, cinnamon, and ginger, and two teaspoons of mola.s.ses. Process until smooth. Cover a pound of boneless chicken (thighs or b.r.e.a.s.t.s) in this mixture and let sit for about five minutes (or up to an hour). Grill the chicken, turning once, until browned and cooked through.

Chicken with Chinese Long Beans and Lemongra.s.s If you can't find Chinese long beans, use regular green beans.

Cut Chinese long beans into one-inch pieces; cook in boiling, salted water until crisp-tender, about two minutes. Drain and shock in ice water; set aside. Soften a diced onion in a little oil, along with some minced garlic, for about a minute; remove. Stir-fry a pound of chicken that's been cut into half-inch strips until the chicken turns white and is partially cooked, about three minutes. Add a tablespoon of minced lemongra.s.s (the tender inner part only), a tablespoon of fish sauce, a teaspoon of ground coriander, a cup of chicken stock, and about two tablespoons of oyster sauce; mix well and continue cooking until the chicken is done, about three more minutes. Add the green beans, the onion, and garlic and toss well so that everything is coated in the sauce. Season with salt and lots of pepper and serve.

Spicy Chicken Tacos with Chipotle Cream Chipotles are hot, so use them to taste.

Mix a cup of sour cream with diced canned chipotles, along with a little of their sauce (adobo). Combine two tablespoons of brown sugar, a tablespoon each of paprika and chili powder, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Pound chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s to half-inch thickness, brush them with oil, and coat them with the spice rub. Grill or broil the chicken, turning once, until it's cooked through, about six minutes; meanwhile, dice a tomato, an avocado, and a red onion. Slice the chicken and serve it on warm corn tortillas with the vegetables, and chipotle cream; garnish with cilantro.

Spiced Chicken with Mango Salsa I grill this chicken, but you can just as easily cook it quickly in a pan with a bit of oil or b.u.t.ter.

Heat a grill or grill pan. In a small bowl, mix one teaspoon each of cinnamon, c.u.min, and paprika; a pinch of cayenne; salt; and pepper. Rub quarter-inch-thick chicken cutlets with the spice mix. In another bowl, combine a chopped mango, half a diced red onion, a handful of chopped cilantro, the juice of half a lime, a tablespoon of olive oil, salt, and pepper. Grill the chicken, turning once, until well browned and cooked through. Serve the chicken topped with mango salsa and lime wedges.

Pork Paillards with Grilled Pineapple Pound boneless pork chops or medallions cut from the tenderloin to quarter-inch thickness; slice a pineapple into half-inch rings. Brush both with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the pineapple until it's well browned on both sides, about four minutes. Grill the pork until it's cooked through, about two minutes on each side. Serve the pork and pineapple with a good steak sauce.

Grilled Pork Skewers with Worcesters.h.i.+re Mix a quarter cup of Worcesters.h.i.+re sauce with two teaspoons of lime juice. Slice a lime into eight wedges. Cut pork tenderloin into one-inch cubes, brush with the Worcesters.h.i.+re mixture, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Thread the pork and lime wedges alternately on skewers. Grill the pork, turning as needed to slightly blacken on all sides and brus.h.i.+ng repeatedly with the sauce, until cooked through. Serve, squeezing the grilled lime over the pork.

Spicy Grilled Pork with Peach Marmalade If you like sweet and savory combos, you'll love this.

Combine a quarter cup of peach (or apricot) preserves with some minced garlic, a tablespoon of olive oil, a tablespoon of soy sauce, a half teaspoon of dry mustard, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and salt. Coat thin, boneless pork chops with the marmalade and grill, taking care not to let the marmalade burn. Slice fresh peaches (or apricots) in half, and remove the pits; sprinkle with salt and grill flesh-side down for a couple of minutes until colored and just softening. Serve the pork with the grilled fruit.

Grilled Pork with Basil Peanut Sauce Use natural peanut b.u.t.ter, please (peanuts and salt, nothing else).

In a blender, combine a few handfuls of fresh basil, a lump of peanut b.u.t.ter (say, a quarter cup), a tablespoon or two of fish sauce, a clove of garlic, a small piece of fresh ginger, a pinch of red chile flakes, and a little water; process until you have a smooth, thick paste, then taste and add more of whatever you like. Rub the paste over a pound of boneless pork chops (about a half-inch thick) and set aside to marinate for a few minutes. Slice a couple of heads of baby bok choy in half; brush them with peanut or sesame oil and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and lime juice. Grill the pork until it's slightly blackened and cooked through; grill the bok choy until it wilts slightly and is tender when pierced with a knife. Serve together.

Grilled Steaks with Rosemary Plums Don't bother to skewer the fruit if you're feeling lazy; just lay the rosemary on top as the pieces cook.

Brush rib eye, strip, or sirloin steaks with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cut plums into quarters, remove the pits, and skewer them on rosemary sprigs. Grill everything, turning once, until the steaks are just done-five minutes or so, depending on their thickness-and the plums are soft and slightly blackened. Serve together, with garlic bread.

Korean Barbecued Beef Traditionally eaten with white rice, wrapped in lettuce leaves.

Slice a flank (or better: skirt) steak into half-inch pieces. Mix together one teaspoon of sesame oil, one tablespoon of brown sugar, three tablespoons of soy sauce, one tablespoon of mirin (or a little honey mixed with water), two minced cloves of garlic, and a pinch of red chile flakes. Brush the meat with the sauce and grill until it begins to crisp, about two minutes per side, basting frequently. Serve the beef sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds and chopped scallions.

Grilled Skirt Steak with Tomatillo Salsa Use tomatoes, peaches, or pineapple here.

Season a skirt steak with salt and pepper. In a food processor, puree three or four tomatillos, a handful of cilantro, a clove of garlic, a jalapeno or other green chile, a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, some lemon or lime juice, a dash of sugar, salt, and pepper; process until smooth, then taste and adjust the seasonings. Grill the steak to medium-rare, about three minutes on each side. Serve the steak sliced against the grain and drizzled with the salsa.

A Very Good Burger In a food processor, coa.r.s.ely grind a pound or so of sirloin or chuck, cut in chunks, with half of a white onion. Season the meat mixture generously with salt and pepper, and form it into patties, handling it as little as possible. Grill the burgers on each side for about three minutes for rare, and a minute more for each further degree of doneness. Serve on buns or rolls with freshly sliced tomatoes, pickles, lettuce, bacon, avocado, or whatever you like.

Hot-and-Sour Beef and Okra Stir-fry High heat minimizes okra's slime factor.

Trim okra and cut in half lengthwise. Put a film of vegetable oil in the bottom of a large skillet set over high heat. When hot, add the okra, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook without stirring until it sputters and browns a bit; stir and let it go a minute or two more. Meanwhile, cut a sirloin or flank steak into strips and chop up some garlic, ginger, onions, and fresh hot chile. Remove the okra from the pan, adding more oil if needed. Stir-fry the beef until almost done; then add the aromatics and chile and sprinkle lightly with sugar. Splash some rice vinegar and soy sauce in the pan to make a little sauce. Add the okra and some cilantro or Thai basil and give a good stir. Serve over rice.

Grilled Lamb Chops with Lemony Yogurt Sauce This is a lovely sauce whose flavor profile you can readily change by replacing the spices with chopped dill or mint.

Combine a cup of plain yogurt with a few tablespoons of lemon juice, a quarter cup of diced cuc.u.mber, and a teaspoon or so of ground c.u.min and paprika (or pimenton). Season the chops with salt and pepper; grill until medium-rare, about three minutes per side depending on thickness. Serve the lamb with the yogurt sauce.

Grilled Lamb Chops with Summer Fruit Grill whatever's in season-nectarines, plums, peaches, and pears are all delicious.

Season lamb chops with salt, pepper, and a sprinkle of cinnamon; cut the fruit into quarters. Cook the lamb chops, turning once, until medium-rare (timing will depend on how thick the chops are). While the lamb is cooking, add the fruit to the grill and cook until it begins to soften and you have nice grill marks. Serve the lamb topped with the grilled fruit.

Shrimp and Pasta with Pesto You can always use store-bought pesto; but I wouldn't.

Boil salted water for pasta and cook it. Meanwhile, in a food processor, puree a few large handfuls of fresh basil, a large handful of freshly grated Parmesan, and a small one of pine nuts or walnuts; and salt, pepper, and enough olive oil to reach a smooth consistency-you don't want the pesto too thin. In some olive oil cook about a half pound of small whole or large chopped shrimp. Drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking water, and toss it with the pesto and shrimp, using some of the pasta water to moisten the mixture if needed. Serve warm or cold.

Pasta with Cherry Tomatoes This is sublime when summer tomatoes are at their peak.

Boil salted water for pasta and cook it; meanwhile, cook a minced clove of garlic in olive oil for a couple of minutes, until fragrant. Add about a pound of whole cherry or grape tomatoes to the pan and cook over low heat. When a few have burst, turn off the heat. Drain the pasta and toss it gently with the tomatoes. Season with salt and lots of freshly ground pepper; serve with freshly chopped basil and/or freshly grated Parmesan.

Pasta Salad with Beans and Herbs Serve as a room-temperature salad, or warm as a main course.

Cook cut pasta, like ziti, then drain and rinse. Meanwhile, combine a couple of minced shallots; some drained precooked or canned kidney, garbanzo, and black beans; a few tablespoons of olive oil; some minced garlic; a teaspoon of red chile flakes; and lots of freshly chopped parsley, along with (if you have it) a little dill, mint, and basil. (Add some chopped or cherry tomatoes if you like.) Toss the pasta with the bean mixture and season well with salt and pepper.

Pasta with Spicy Squid Fastest, of course, with pre-cleaned squid.

Boil salted water for pasta and cook it. Meanwhile, slice fresh squid into rings; cook some minced garlic and a diced red chile in olive oil. Add a splash of dry white wine to the pan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and add the squid; cook until just done, about two minutes. Toss in the drained pasta, adding extra olive oil if needed, and season well with salt and pepper, and perhaps a little bit of red chile flakes, before serving.

Cellophane Noodles with Shrimp and Papaya Add some mango or pineapple, or subst.i.tute one for the papaya if you like.

Soak the cellophane noodles in boiling water until tender, rinse, and drain. Peel a papaya and dice it into quarter-inch pieces; thinly slice a few scallions; chop a handful of fresh basil; and mince a Thai (or another) chile. Combine in a bowl with a pound of cooked shrimp. Whisk together a few tablespoons of rice wine vinegar, a teaspoon of sugar, and a pinch of salt; then combine with the shrimp mixture and the noodles. Garnish with chopped peanuts and cilantro, mint, or more basil.

Pasta with Spicy Sh.e.l.lfish This works with peeled shrimp, squid, or crabmeat or shucked clams, oysters, or mussels.

Boil salted water for pasta and cook it; meanwhile, soften a couple of minced garlic cloves and a pinch of red chile flakes in some olive oil; cook until fragrant, about two minutes. Add about a pound of fresh seafood to the garlic and chile flakes, and continue cooking until the fish is cooked (or in the case of crab, warmed through), anywhere from three to five more minutes. Toss the pasta with the seafood, along with a bit of the pasta cooking water if needed. Drizzle with more olive oil if you like; season with salt, pepper, and more red chile flakes if necessary; and garnish with freshly chopped basil or parsley.

Pasta with Puttanesca Cruda Boil salted water for pasta and cook it; meanwhile, in a large bowl, mix together two large chopped tomatoes, a handful of pitted and chopped olives (any kind, as long as they're good), a couple of tablespoons of drained capers, a handful each of chopped fresh basil and parsley, several chopped anchovy fillets, a little minced garlic, a pinch of red chile flakes, and about a quarter cup of olive oil. Toss the hot pasta and about a quarter cup of the cooking liquid with the tomato mixture, adding more cooking liquid if necessary. Season with salt and pepper, and garnish with more chopped herbs.

Poached Tofu with Broccoli Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Lower a brick of firm tofu into the water and cook until it just floats, five to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk together equal parts soy sauce, sake, lemon and orange juices, and water with a little sugar and a few drops of sesame oil; break a head of broccoli into florets. When you remove the tofu, plunge the broccoli into the pot; count to 20 and then drain. Serve thick slices of the tofu with the florets, drizzling the dressing over all. Sprinkle with panko too, if you like.

Blueberry Ricotta Cheesecakes One of my favorite ways to make the most of fresh blueberries.

In a food processor, finely grind one sleeve of graham crackers. Combine the crackers with about three tablespoons of melted b.u.t.ter and press the mixture into ramekins. Whisk a cup of ricotta cheese with a cup of cream cheese (an eight-ounce package), a couple of tablespoons of honey, the zest and juice of a lemon, and a pinch of salt. Spread the ricotta mixture evenly in the prepared crust, top with lots of fresh blueberries, and serve, or refrigerate for up to a day before serving.

Apricot Cream Upside-Down Pie Equally good with fresh or dried apricots.

Halve and pit a pound of apricots; put them in a pan with a half cup of brandy and bring to a boil. Continue cooking until the apricots break down, about eight minutes. Whip a cup of cream, along with a tablespoon of brandy, until thick. In a food processor, pulse about eight graham crackers with a good handful of pistachios (pecans are nice here too), leaving the mixture slightly chunky. When the apricots are done, fold them into the whipped cream. Serve a heaping spoonful of the apricot cream in a bowl sprinkled with the graham crackernut crunch on top.

Frozen Hot Chocolate Serve this with biscotti or other not-too-sweet cookies.

Melt six ounces of good dark chocolate with a quarter cup of cream or half-and-half, being careful not to boil. Once the chocolate is melted, taste and add a little sugar if you like. Put it in the blender with three cups of ice and pulse until an even consistency is reached. Serve in small bowls or cups.

Ginger-Lemon "Ice Cream"

Add more candied ginger if you like.

In a food processor, puree two tablespoons of fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped, with a half cup of sugar, two cups of cream, and the juice and zest of one lemon. Add ice, pulsing, and pus.h.i.+ng down as necessary, until thick and icy; add a couple of tablespoons of chopped candied ginger at the end and process until just combined. Serve immediately, or freeze for up to several days.

Peach Lemon "Cheesecake"

This works just as well with nectarines, raspberries, strawberries, or even mangoes.

Puree two peaches with the juice of one lemon, two tablespoons of sugar, and about six ounces of goat cheese-you want a nice thick mixture, so use more cheese as needed. Spoon the mixture into individual ramekins, smooth the top, and cover with a layer of chopped pistachios. Sprinkle the nuts with powdered sugar and a drizzle of honey.

Fresh Fruit Gratin Use stone fruits (peaches, nectarines, plums, or apricots) or berries.

Wash, pit, and prepare the fruit as needed; heat the broiler. Combine one cup of sour cream with about two tablespoons of sugar and one teaspoon of vanilla. Put two to three cups of fruit in a baking dish just large enough to hold it, top with the sour cream mixture, and sprinkle with a teaspoon of sugar; broil for about two minutes, or until the cream begins to brown.

Blackberries with Champagne and Tarragon Oddly appealing.

Finely chop a couple of teaspoons of fresh tarragon. Toss a quart of rinsed blackberries with a few tablespoons of sugar, a cup or so of sparkling wine, and the tarragon. Let the mixture sit for about five minutes, or longer if you have time, and serve in small bowls with your favorite sugar cookie.

Ice Cream Sandwich Use different flavors of ice cream or sorbet, or vary the jam (or skip it altogether).

Let vanilla ice cream soften for five minutes. Lay cocoa snaps or gingersnaps (or vanilla wafers) out in two rows and spread raspberry jam thinly on each one. Add a scoop of the softened ice cream to half the cookies and top with the remaining cookies to make sandwiches.

101.

Quick Summer Fruit Ice Cream All you need is a food processor.

Freeze a pound of fresh sliced fruit (trimmed, seeded, or pitted as needed). When hard, put in the machine along with one-half cup creme fraiche (or yogurt or silken tofu for that matter). Add as much or as little sugar as you like and just enough water, a spoonful at a time, to let the processor do its thing. Sc.r.a.pe down the bowl as needed; but don't overprocess, or the ice cream will liquefy. Serve immediately; or if you freeze for later, let it sit out for 10 or 15 minutes to soften a bit.

FALL.

Much of summer's bounty remains through early fall, and as it starts to dwindle, it's replaced by the late-harvest fruits and vegetables that will carry through the winter-apples, pears, winter squash, and a return of many of the cool-weather vegetables of spring. The combination of grilling and braising, of summer and winter, makes this a magical time to cook, and one with more options than any other. through early fall, and as it starts to dwindle, it's replaced by the late-harvest fruits and vegetables that will carry through the winter-apples, pears, winter squash, and a return of many of the cool-weather vegetables of spring. The combination of grilling and braising, of summer and winter, makes this a magical time to cook, and one with more options than any other.

Spicy Escarole with Croutons and Eggs You might add a bit of dried oregano, or garlic, or both to the croutons before toasting.

Cut good-quality bread into one-inch cubes; toss the bread with two tablespoons of olive oil, salt, and pepper and toast them until golden, about three or four minutes. Cook a bunch of chopped escarole in two tablespoons of b.u.t.ter for about five minutes, or until wilted. Toss the escarole with the croutons, a pinch or two of red chile flakes, freshly squeezed lemon juice, olive oil, and freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Serve the greens and croutons in bowls with a soft-boiled or poached egg on top, along with more Parmesan.

Mediterranean Poached Eggs This is fine when the eggs are scrambled, too.

Slice a cup or so of mushrooms and a handful of black olives; chop an onion and two or three plum tomatoes. In a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, cook a smashed clove of garlic and the onion for about two minutes. Add the olives, mushrooms, and tomatoes and let the mixture simmer over medium heat. Poach four eggs and toast thick slices of peasant bread. Add a handful of chopped fresh basil and a couple of tablespoons of capers to the vegetable mixture; season with salt and pepper. Serve the vegetables and eggs on the bread, with lemon wedges on the side.

Egg and Carrot Cake with Soy Made with common ingredients, but unusual and delicious.

Grate a large carrot while you melt a tablespoon of b.u.t.ter in a skillet over medium heat; add the grated carrot and some minced garlic. Whisk four eggs with a couple of tablespoons of milk in a bowl and add them to the carrots; cook as you would a frittata. When the eggs are almost set, add a few dashes of soy sauce and a sprinkle of scallions and serve. (Good at room temperature, too.) Huevos Rancheros For a less conventional version, replace the tomatoes in the salsa with peaches or pineapple.

Chop two large tomatoes, half a red onion, a small chile, and a handful of fresh cilantro; mix together with freshly squeezed lime juice, salt, and pepper. Warm a can of black beans (if you have homemade, all the better). While the beans are warming, make eggs any way you like: fried, poached, or scrambled. Top a warm tortilla with some beans, the eggs, and the salsa; garnish with fresh avocado and more cilantro.

Breakfast Burritos Basically a tortilla filled with eggs and other stuff.

Heat a can of black, red, or refried beans (or use homemade). Warm large flour tortillas in the oven, in the microwave, or in a dry skillet until just soft. Scramble a couple of eggs and cook them to the desired doneness. Spread some beans down the middle of a tortilla, top with grated cheese, eggs, and then anything else you like: olives, scallions, avocado, tomatoes, cilantro, bacon, sausage, salsa-you get the picture. Fold the short sides of the tortillas in, roll lengthwise, and serve.

Brunch Baked Eggs Really substantial.

Heat the oven to 400F. In a pan over medium-high heat, melt a tablespoon or two of b.u.t.ter. Add a bunch of chopped spinach; cover the pan and let the spinach wilt. Add a half cup of cream, a cup of ricotta cheese, a handful of grated provolone, a couple of tablespoons of cognac (optional), salt, pepper, and a sprinkle of nutmeg. Bring this mixture to a simmer, stirring often, for about two more minutes. Divide the spinach mixture among four oven-safe bowls or ramekins (or cook in one big bowl); crack an egg over the top of each. Put the bowls on a cookie sheet and bake them for eight to 10 minutes, or until the whites of the eggs are just set. Serve with toasted bread.

In-Sh.e.l.l Clam Chowder A rustic spin on the cla.s.sic.

Heat some olive oil in a pot, and cook a chopped onion for a couple of minutes until soft. Stir in some chopped celery, four cups of fish or clam broth (or water), and a cup each of heavy cream and dry white wine; add a few thyme sprigs, and a pound of potatoes, cut into quarter-inch dice. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes. Add a couple dozen scrubbed clams, season well with salt and pepper, and cover and cook until the clams pop open, just a couple of minutes more. Serve in shallow bowls, garnished with chopped parsley and lemon wedges.

Mushroom and Nori Soup Light, delicate, flavorful, and unusual.

In a pot over high heat, cook about three cups of mushrooms (any combination works; oyster and s.h.i.+take is especially good) in a couple of tablespoons of b.u.t.ter until they begin to release their liquid; add a diced onion, a minced garlic clove, and a chopped celery stalk and cook until the onion is translucent. Add about four cups of vegetable or chicken stock, a quarter cup of soy sauce, the juice of a lemon, a pinch of celery seed, salt, and pepper. Cook until the vegetables are tender. Tear or slice a sheet of nori into strips and put in soup bowls; pour soup over the nori (it will mostly dissolve) and serve.

Lemony Red Lentil Soup with Cilantro Red lentils cook very quickly, but allow more time if you subst.i.tute any other type.

Cook a chopped onion in olive oil in a saucepan until soft; add one cup of red lentils and four cups of chicken broth and bring to a boil; continue simmering until the lentils are soft. Puree a handful of cilantro with a few tablespoons of olive oil and a pinch of salt; set aside. If you like, puree half the lentils until almost smooth; return them to the pan. Add about two tablespoons of lemon juice or more to taste. Stir in the cilantro puree, adjust the seasonings, and serve with crusty bread or a mound of rice in the center.

Egg Drop Soup Nothing could be easier.

Bring a quart of stock (chicken or vegetable) to a slow bubble; gently pour four beaten eggs into the stock while stirring. Add soy sauce to taste and garnish with some chopped cilantro or scallions; a little sesame oil is nice, too.

Curried Coconutb.u.t.ternut Squash Soup You can buy pre-peeled, precut squash, and just cut it down to quarter-inch pieces.

Cook two cups of chopped squash in a few tablespoons of vegetable oil, along with a diced onion, a teaspoon of c.u.min, a half teaspoon of cinnamon, and a teaspoon of curry powder (or more to taste). Cook the vegetables and spices until the onion is soft, about three minutes. Add five cups of chicken broth or water and a cup of coconut milk; bring to a boil and cook for about six minutes or until the squash is tender and easily pierced with a knife. Serve the soup topped with fresh cilantro and crusty bread or a scoop of rice.

Tomato Soup with Chickpeas and Greens Fresh tomatoes and dried chickpeas cooked by you make this even better.

Drain a can of diced tomatoes and a can of chickpeas (if you cooked the chickpeas yourself, use some of their broth in the soup). Cook a diced onion, a diced carrot, and a diced stalk of celery in olive oil until soft. Add one crushed clove of garlic, the tomatoes, the beans, and about four cups of chicken or vegetable broth. Bring to a boil; add a bunch of chopped chard or beet greens (or spinach), reduce to a simmer, and cook for five more minutes. Meanwhile, brush sliced baguette or another good bread with olive oil, and toast. Serve soup with croutons on top.